Chevy GMC 5.3L INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKET UPGRADE with KNOCK SENSORS!!

[@alphasaiyan5760]

Just by the way it cranks but no starts it’s the fuel pump. Been there and done that more times than I would’ve liked to. When I used to travel for work , driving 50k miles a year ,I’d actually keep a spare fuel pump in the back of my suburban for when this happens. Real fun on the side of the road but that’s why I cut an access panel out in the floor above the pump. 😉

[@benjaminveanueva6743]

When I was always on the highway I kept extra parts just in case years later I'm using them and grateful I do that

[@clarkg9805]

Looks like I will be following your lead on my 2003 Yukon, as my knock sensor code just came on. Thanks for taking the time to show as much as possible on how to take out the intake manifold. I'm no mechanic, but will try just about anything once. Your video's are extremely helpful for DIY's like myself. I felt your pain at the end of your video, hope that everything turned out ok. Reality isn't always pleasant, but it's always real. Thanks my friend.

[@beachwalker2574]

two years ago I had to change the intake manifold gasket on a 2003 Chevy tahoe it was pretty easy ... now the code for a knock sensor came on and kinda dreading it but I have to be positive and just do it, or 1600 which I will never pay that ..

[@spongebobbies]

Hey, thanks for your videos, I bought a 99 LT 5.7L 2wheel drive Chevy Suburban classic squad body from a 1 owner 90k miles , and I’ve too taken the task of doing my own work on it.... tune up, brakes, replaced all light bulbs with LEDs, add a Bluetooth modulator to the stock radio, replace all stock speakers with aftermarkets, removed the 4x10s in the rear deck with 6x9s, replaced all exterior house light units with oem parts , it’s a wonderful feeling when you can tell others “ I did that” ! Thanks for your videos and motivating me!

[@walburg11]

If you think you have an intake manifold vacuum leak you can spray some WD-40 around the gasket while the engine is idling. Any change in RPM or sound will indicate where the leak is. This works on vacuum hoses also.

[@jaykay8570]

I prefer a smoke machine. Water works too.

[@Brudovo3434]

I would suggest carb cleaner rather than WD-40 works just as good and wont be oily

[@WADBODCROSSFITLasVegas]

Love your videos. You really take the time to consistently produce high quality information. The best part of this vid was the reality at the end. I know we all feel your pain and it's nice to know we all experience it, even for someone that is meticulous about what they do. I hope you KZbin pays you well for all your hard work. I'm going to at least buy a t-shirt haha. Thanks man!

[@lanashill7949]

Your videos look like me trying to do car things. I feel like you are learning these techniques just like I would. If you can do it, so can I! Thanks for the DIY inspiration!

[@beardedguardian71]

Well dang. That sucks. On a positive note, you have helped a lot of fellas who are dealing with the knock sensor issue. Like me. Thanks and God Bless.

[@jonnymills2333]

By the way it turns over with that galloping sound sounds like you have a dead hole

[@whitetiger8652]

Great attitude! Taking your time and learning along the way is the right way. In my opinion gaskets needed replaced anyway from the looks of them.

[@jamesrarmes4778]

Kinda stupid if you ask me I ask for directions for a 3.5 in line 5 cylinder

[@jorgefigheroa77]

It just sucks Jimmy...when you spend a lot of time and money trying to fix a problem and at the end doesn't work..I've been there many times..I know you'll fix it brother..👍

[@HoustonRocket281]

Jorge Figueroa the feels bro the feels. Been there done that. But a learning experience is valuable forever

[@suelo_abuelo8066]

Hey bro, I just want to thank you for this video and all the info on the parts in the description, I bought everything cuz I needed to replace my knock sensors too. One thing I did though to make them more water proof, is I siliconed the ridge in the sensor holes, the rubber plug underneath, and like you did, as well as the wire where goes through the top of the rubber plug so no moister will ever get in them knock sensor holes again!

[@joselbaeza5571]

There is a upgrade valve cover to avoid the oil in the intake with a long baffle

[@Sober4277]

Is this a upgrade for 5.3 engines?

[@Sniperssx]

as long you had access in their change oil perssor sensor as well

[@shamblershamfam3597]

+1 on fuel. Pump can turn on and not provide adequate pressure. My sons 2000 Sierra had an almost identical problem. It was the pressure regulator. Super easy to change on the 5.3. Best of luck.

[@jiml20]

Great video and sorry you failed. I felt your pain. I really enjoy your videos because they are real and not planned (edited) as I can tell about your failure here. Still you remained positive and kept thinking of solutions. I hope I can find part 2 of this video to see what the issue was. I am about to tackle this job myself. Somewhat fearful of doing this job. I also saw some camping videos of you in your truck. Keep them up. I saw another video P042 error and the new gasket solved the issue. My 2008 5.3 has a "temperamental" check engine light that kept coming on a couple of times per month with no apparent reason. Now it comes on about every 2 weeks only at idle. Changed plugs wires, and 4 o2 sensors. Symptoms slight roughness in idle but ONLY sometimes. I don't get it. I took it to Midas they said it was fine and charged me $ 450.00 to do an induction cleaning which I think I could probably do myself. Didn't do anything for my issue. Light came back on a week later. These repair shops have no troubleshooting skills. I am better off researching problems on u-tube. I really don't like these new computer vehicles. I had a 1998 Chevy Astro until 270K NEVER had a check engine light, never replaced a o2 sensor. replaced cap and rotor a lot but very good vehicle. Every time I turn around this machine gives me a check engine code for something. Air bag light came on last summer and had the "recall" done. Didn't take care of the air bag light. I saw some videos that said to replace the 2 airbag sensors up front. The Chevy garage asked me If i would like them to troubleshoot and charged me $ 115.00 for diagnosis. They wanted $ 1,100.00 to fix the sensors. I purchased myself and replaced in 30 minutes for less than $ 300.00. Won't go back to Chevy Dealer (rip-offs) Also TMPS kept coming up bought a cheater box to stop the light. These TMPS are totally unnecessary.

[@waynefox5768]

Great video!!! I have a 2000 Chevy Tahoe with 415,000 miles on it. I need to (way past due) do exactly what your video showed. Thanks for the detailed info as it will help me tremendously. (sounds like a fuel pump or filter issue as far as to why it would not start and sure that was covered many times in the comments below) I am for sure a diy guy so again thanks for the awesome video!!!

[@jtorres698]

I don't know if you ever change the crank or the cam pocishon sensors those two sensors is a very common problem Aldo the fuis and the rally do that too . But that it's a real good explanation . thank you for be so real

[@jf3232]

👍 going with your comment

[@HUBBABUBBADOOPYDOOP]

1) Fuel pressure? 2) Spark? 3) Valves moving? 4) Injectors working? (1) Locate fuel pump fuse, check. Locate the Schrader valve, usually on the fuel rail. Remove the cap. Depress the valve, does fuel spit out? Install pressure gauge. Turn key ON. Read pressure. Key OFF- how long does it hold pressure? (2) Check the IGN and PCM fuses; check ALL fuses & breakers, in cabin and under hood. Remove a spark plug, clip it's wire back on it, hold it with insulated plires and a heavy leather glove. Hold the end of the plug onto engine metal (ground) and crank engine over 5 seconds; observe for strong, blue spark. Repeat for other 7 plugs. (3) With all spark plugs removed- cover plug hole with finger. Crank over engine 5 seconds; feel for vacuum then pressure in each cylinder. (4) Unplug each injector, install a "Noid light" on the connector, crank engine 5 seconds. Observe for light to flash. Test each injector. I'd advise you to buy a Haynes manual for it- all of these tests, diagrams, torque values, and capacities are there. Much safer than heresay on the Internet.

[@joediaz425]

Ыдыо ылы тьерк

[@AZHerps]

I purchase those books for each vehicle I get, nothing beats them, you could assemble/disassemble EVERY part of the vehicle

[@HUBBABUBBADOOPYDOOP]

@@AZHerps YES. It's very telling and disgusting when I hear certain "big KZbin names" constantly put down Haynes.

[@AZHerps]

@@HUBBABUBBADOOPYDOOP agreed

[@ryanmenke9554]

Well you will have to do it agian with ac delco knock sensors. The oil is becasue the vortec have a pressure build up problem, so oil sits in the back of the intake. FYI we mount or knock sensors on the front of the cyclnder heads on each side. Works awesome. You do a bang up job of explaing things bud. Sorry If I came off wrong.

[@patrickford1537]

Jimmy I just changed the intake gaskets on a 99 Chevy Silverado and it had a 4.8 l the smaller V8 it had a vacuum leak and it had several codes it had a hundred thousand miles on it and I took the intake off of it and I saw three intake ports that were second are the intake gaskets used those plastic gaskets and they're cheap so I cleaned it up real good and put them back together got new EGR wiring and changed some other gaskets and put it back together and that thing runs smooth as silk so I just thought I would let you know I am a shade tree mechanic I've been doing it for several years so I just wanted to give you that information it look like to me there was some intake leaking from what you showed on the video so be blessed love your videos Patrick Ford of Olney Illinois

[@mijohnst]

I'm going to have to do what you just did for the intake gasket, so thanks for documenting this. I'm much less afraid now. I also had an issue where my Yukon wouldn't start, just like yours is doing at the end of the video. I replaced the fuel pump and that didn't help. I changed the FlexFuel module and that didn't help either. I changed the ignition module and it started right up. I guess something was wrong in my module where it wasn't telling the ECU that the engine was started so it would cut off. Anyway, thanks for taking the time. I enjoy watching your videos and learn much from them.

[@mtsanchez27]

What year is your truck?

[@mijohnst]

@@mtsanchez27 It was a 2004 . I've since sold it and bought a 2001 Tahoe because I wanted shorter with the Z71.

[@jjlittle81]

Great detailed video. Oil seems to be common from pvc pulling the vapors to reburn has oily residue.

[@CraftwerksMC]

Not sure if you have checked into it yet but you may want to get a fuel pressure gauge and test how much fuel pressure you are getting off the fuel rails and go from there. You can get a cheap gauge that is fairly accurate from HF even. It's that time of year when fuel pumps mysteriously fail due to heat so it's a possibility it just crudded out on you.

[@stevenfolino405]

I want to REALLY thank you for your video. You were very thorough and explained everything very well. I’m going to replace my knock sensors tomorrow and I’m hoping it goes well. I have a 2000 Silverado 1500 5.3 motor. I’ll be checking your videos so I know what ELSE to fix!😁

[@Ktonrider]

You did the right things here, my 02 Silverado’s intake gaskets were toast, some of them were sheared off and missing. Granted my truck has 268000 miles but you are wisely repairing them to stave off future problems. The intake gaskets are a known issue for these engines

[@triggas80]

Would it cause a misfire after so many rpms? Like when I get over 30 mph

[@termpred]

It'd be worth checking fuel pressure. That will tell you if the fuel pressure regulator is functioning, as well as the check valve in the fuel pump. I had a fuel pressure regulator fail on me last year and after a shutoff it would take several primes of the fuel pump (key on/off) cycles to get it high enough to start.

[@Zoroaster4]

Yeah not to mention it only costs like $20 for the pressure gauge and takes 5 minutes to check.

[@csj2640]

Thanks for video. Just a suggestion. My truck sounded like that after I changed the cam shaft sensor. The wires coverings melted causing them to touch. I cleaned all the oil that was leaking from head gasket and made sure all the wiring for sensor was good. Then connected the sensor and holy smokes, it started right up. Camshaft sensor will not let spark go to plugs causing it to not start. Headache trying to figure it out, but that was it. Dang sensor made me buy a bunch of bunch stuff to replace. If I would’ve started there I would have saved a ton . I truly learned to appreciate great mechanics. Learned a lot of stuff in the process so it all good. Check on that camshaft sensor wiring. Saw that mentioned in a video from our fellow doers.

[@1RoadGarage]

Thank you Carlos!

[@CORITOPANA]

It's a shame you didn't find the problem but I learned a lot from you, thanks for your time 👍

[@jeromeburrasca6710]

How come everyone doesn't bother changing out the Valley Pan gasket when doing their knock sensors, it's right there and infamous for oil leaks! ;)

[@adanreyes7790]

Yeah I saw oil all around mine, I'm doing manifold gaskets right now cause of a vacuum leak and I ordered those gaskets and the valley cover gasket also. Doing the ac delco knock sensors and harness too. Hopefully I'll never have issues with any of that any time soon. There was some sensors on the rear of the motor which I assume is the camshaft position sensor and the other I'm not sure maybe oil pressure sensor? Not sure if those go out often

[@randysshop9683]

The reason people don't replace that valley pan gasket is its a pain in the rear to get it off. The knock sensor holes have grommets that get stuck and that makes it very difficult to remove the valley cover

[@LotsOfPaypa]

@@randysshop9683 I just did mine and it was easy… hopefully I don’t have to do again for a while…

[@randysshop9683]

@@LotsOfPaypa you got lucky. Every time i do one they fight to the death

[@randysshop9683]

@@adanreyes7790 the oil pressure sensor goes bad frequently on these trucks and they can be a pain to remove. If your going to be in there you might as well replace it. But dont cheap out get the sensor from the dealer because if you dont the cheap autozone ones will break quicker than the factory one. Ive had to replace several of those with factory ones because they litterally fall apart after a month or two. (Long story short replace with gm sensor)

[@johnj.edwardsiii4755]

It's been years since this was posted. And, I didn't scroll through every comment. But, when I had that same noise during startups, I did a PassLock reset, and it started right up. Also, ignition cylinder replacement helps, too. Apologies if you did this, or it was already suggested. 👍

[@kenman1717]

GM updated the material in those gaskets. the original gasket material was orange which you had, that stuff drys out and flattens out over time and causes a vacuum leak and causes it to run like crap when its really cold out and stalling until it warms up. the new material is blue or green depending on GM or Felpro. although Felpro has 2 different versions of the gasket. i actually prefer the plastic ones that clip to the intake over the metal ones, and here the metal ones are cheaper than the plastic ones. i've done lots of those knock sensors, and where i live in Canada, usually i end up replacing the valley cover as well, because the rear hole is so full of rust/mud/water that the sensor is so rotten it breaks off and you have to pull the cover up and the seal stays down there, then go through extracting the broken sensor or whats left of it. but care needs to be taken, cause there are openings under the cover right to the camshaft.

[@atomicdmt8763]

i like to label everything- w (painters or white tape) and numbers, letters- and make step by step notes on a notebook, clipboard......and put all fasteners into a foam board, w notes/labels. saves me everytime. always worth the time.

[@nobodyinparticular5224]

Use your phone, take pictures. Faster and exact.

[@coycarlson4979]

Great attitude - you did a GREAT JOB on the intake gasket installation. Yes - I too have seen where an intake vacuum leak is common on the GMC 5.3L of certain year models. I too , am a home mechanic and I do many repairs on my own vehicles as nothing under the hood scares me. You mentioned to leave a comment - I would say if you are a home mechanic / DIYer and learning - you FIRST will need a vehicle SCANNER to plug into your vehicles diagnostic port usually located below the dash on the driver side. You can now purchase decent scanners for relatively little money. Todays engines all use Computers called PCU's ( power train control units ) / ECU's ( engine control units ) to monitor and control engine performance - Todays automobiles are drive by wire , simply put , everything is electronically controlled - IE : a sensor on your accelerator pedal sends a signal to the engine computer ( ECU ) which reads how much you press the pedal - then the ECU sends a signal to the throttle plate to open more and send more fuel to your injectors , when you release the accelerator pedal the signal is lower to the ECU - then the ECU sends a signal to the throttle plate to close - thereby decelerating your engine. Again - drive by wire - NO THROTTLE CABLE. Anyway - even basic scanners will connect with your vehicle computer and will give you a DTC -diagnostic test code - for many engine system faults - to give one at least a direction of where the system / engine fault may be - so one does not have to go blindly checking so to speak. Todays engines are very sophisticated - being electronically monitored and controlled. With todays fuel injected engines it is the computer which determines the proper air / fuel mixture under different engine loads - NOT a carburetor - which controlled air fuel mixture mechanically . With a no start condition - one would surely want to check your fuel pressure on your injector fuel rail - see if it meets spec and check your ignition circuit to see if you are getting spark to your spark plugs, could also be you lost power to your injectors. That being said , with everything being electronically controlled - ALWAYS - be sure to check your fuses FIRST. Again , thanks for your video - great instruction on replacing the intake gaskets - unless you had a vacuum hose leaking or emission component problem - I think you took care of any intake vacuum leak for sure 😊👍👍👍👍✌️

[@Sober4277]

What years are good ones to buy that dont have the gasket issues?

[@spiralnapkin]

I have the same vehicle with a bad knock sensor. This is exactly the video I was looking for by the KZbinr I was hoping could help. It's an intimidating job still... 😳

[@johnjohn4237]

check fuel pressure at quick disconnect by manifold check ,volume delivery too- bet you have no crank position signal...

[@mikel5571]

I’m a boy to do mine as well, I have a code for the injector and oiled pressure sensor so I’ll get them all fixed in one fun filled weekend. Thanks for the vid. Like you said, garage mechanics. Fun!

[@Tkssa580]

I have had a Tahoe and Yukon xl, both with 5.3’s for YEARS. When there’s a “no start” condition, ALWAYS CHECK FUEL PRESSURE AND MAKE SURE YOU HAVE SPARK, FIRST AND FOREMOST. Then check fuel pump fuses and relay.

[@EB4L9964]

Yeah. I got 04 yukon starts cold runs fine until at normal running temp then turns off. Won't start until cools down. Like finding a needle in a haystack.

[@Tkssa580]

@@EB4L9964 it really is

[@drrandyrx]

FYI. A little oil in the intake is normal. Do NOT replace a removable PCV on these trucks with an aftermarket one. These are fixed orifice type to restrict flow. Ones from aftermarket are usually "rattle" valve type and will allow more oil into the intake. New trucks use a permanent fixed orifice PCV that is part of the valve cover.

[@Ace-44]

I replaced mine with a AC Delco pcv. 03 silverado

[@drwombat]

Fixed orifice doesn't mean non replaceable you nob

[@josephgamble4561]

i always look up manufacturer torque specs sometimes its better to read a chart than watch a video great vid though about to be dealing with this myself so thanks for the info!!

[@VanisleNSX]

Your a brave man to undertake that job!I prefer to stick to basic vehicle maintenance. I have been subscribed to both of your channels from the beginning. Take care!

[@itet1]

Harbor freight fuel pump test gauge worked on my 5.3l The fuel pump was working like you mentioned for 3sec but only pump to 8 psi. You need + - 50psi I replaced with ac delco Engine started like there was never problems Best and I think easiest way to replace fuel pump is to remove the bed What I remember there was 6 bolts You need at list two person for that.

[@2Ramrod2]

Yep, you are correct. I have a 99 Silverado step-side...I just put my 2nd pump in last August. First time I dropped tank when truck was 13 years old, that took me most of the day. 2nd time we moved bed to rear and just set bumper on ground. This truck is a step-side so there are metal brackets under the steps on each side...so you have to lift front of bed up to clear those brackets befor eyou can go back with it. I did'nt know that the bolts went up into bed from below, I thought they went down...That's why I did not take bed off first time because I didn't want to remove the bedliner. The only other thing you have to do is unhook the wire harness at rear for tail lights...If I recall, this truck has 8 bolts! Took me 1 1/2 hours to replace fuel pump! 2nd O'Reilly's pump lasted 10 years (OEM was 13). This 3rd pump will never see Ethanol gas !!!!

[@extorter]

I don't know if your figured out the oil in the intake but they do make an updated driver side valve cover to address that. It has a modified design on the underside of the valve cover to prevent oil from getting sucked up.

[@holdersteven]

THANKS FOR YOU HONESTY That took a lot of guts to go on the web with your Faux Pas . I have a starting problem a lot like yours.I did all the fuel supply tests first. S I thought My 5.3 litre 03 Yukon had a distributor. Surprise! after I removed the intake I discover it doesnt. So I buy new gasketts. I didnt replace the knock sensors. I cleaned the alumnum heads where the intake gaskett meets. While re setting it with the 10 aluminum bolts I broke the first one off in the head. So I'm feeling lucky I was able to extract the broken bolt without screwing up the head. I've almost have everything re-assembled. All that work was for nothing because I didnt take the time to properly troubleshoot. I am a mechanic by trade but not an auto mechanic. Nonetheless I've done most of the repairs on my three 5.3 litre trucks . I get a lot a satisfacction when things go my way . However when I screw up more than I fix its frustrating . I can appreciate your bummer! I know very well the frustration I saw on your face. I'm going to get an analizer to help me figure this out My guess is the crankshaft position sensor or maybe the Cam sensor. Let me know if you have made any progress Good Luck my friend !

[@pablogomez3984]

Before you change the pump, check the pressure and it should be in the range of 40-60 psi and if its not its your pump. Some fuel pumps have a sock on the bottom and when the car sits for a while the dirt tends to bunch up and clog the pump and it starts to act up. When you turn the key the pump will turn on but what matters is how much pressure it's sending to the engine and it should be in the 40 - 60 psi range.

[@nobodyinparticular5224]

Your advice is spot on.

[@lulop022882]

Should have looked into relocating the knock sensors. I relocated mine to the passenger side head behind the idle pulley. There’s 2 empty threaded ports the sensors thread into. The factory replacement harness will reach. I never had to lift my manifold since I left the old ones installed.

[@stevebucuris8420]

Vacuum hissing in the cabin of the vehicle is generally the brake booster diaphram leak.

[@x-man5056]

Many of this vintage Chevy's use vacuum to operate the dash board ventilation doors. There are a handful of them but fortunately, there are usual suspects. A little research will point you toward most likely culprits.

[@44hawk28]

If you want to stop the raw oil from going into the intake, you have to put a oil catch can on it between the PCV Port which is on the driver's side valve cover and the top of the intake.

[@TakeTurnsGaming]

theres updated valve covers from GM that might also fix the issue without the need for a catch can.

[@renegadet1238]

ya you can drill holes in the valve covers on the inside plate inside, it is supposed to help, there are video's on it

[@shoes121255]

The oil is from the PCV system. Some oil is normal. If you want to eliminate the oil you can get a catch can.

[@ThePlayboy78834]

thats exactly what i was gonna say

[@fishntools]

GM has a revised valve cover (with better baffling) which resolves this oil issue.

[@antoniofunnyguy]

The real mvp

[@jamesduffy9756]

@@dtnel haha yeah that neighbor lady is letting you in her garage alright (; park it in her hard for me buddy hahahahaha jkjk

[@antonioescalante5268]

correct

[@Burdain]

Like I told you before check that your Fuel system is working properly, the fuel pump can still be working but incorrectly with low pressure or what ever. To be honest replacing the fuel pump is a lot easier than all the stuff you did. Also it does not harm to check that you have sparks could be an electrical issue too. Good luck hope you get it running again

[@jundiaz1]

Sparks my Chevy van wouldn’t start I was told the fuel pump I replaced some spark plugs and started working i just have to replace the rest now .

[@Victor-yk3bg]

I replaced the intake manifold and throttle body on my 2006 Silverado 4.8L. I also had oil pour out of the throttle body as well wen I tipped up. I was puzzled too as to why there was oil in the throttle body. I have 275,721 on it. the reason I replaced the intake manifold and throttle body because I had a vacuum leak and the truck was hard to start. I runs like a champ now. I wish I would have seen your video before I did the job so I would have changed and sealed the knock sensors. Thank you.

[@1RoadGarage]

I think the oil gets sucked up from the egr valve.

[@rreed336]

Man, gonna tackle the knock sensor replace this weekend. Great, clear video. 👍🏿

[@dtnel]

So 1 Road what was the final call on this fix? You should do a quick follow up video or comment in this post so everyone knows.

[@kenalex0353]

As the owner of a 99 5.7 K2500 PU and a 99 7.4 C2500 Burb and an 04 5.3 K1500 Burb .. I can feel your pain....fuel pumps, fuel regulators, knock sensors, MAP sensors, MAF sensors, O2 sensors, Throttle position sensor, Crankshaft position sensor, Cam position sensor, ckp/cmp correlation...Et al.... But they are all doable and the AC or Delphi parts are reasonably cheap and plentiful.. In the past the fuel pump caused a Crank No Start for both the 5.7 and the 7.4 but they were both obvious as there was no 2 second prime whine at key on. Bad Crank Position Sensor caused intermittent Crank No Start on the 7.4. Had the knock sensor code on the 5.3 , intake manifold coolant leaks on the 5.7 and 7.4....in the cumulative 600k miles on these three vehicles only the fuel pumps ever left me stranded....Your approach is diligent and considered for the information you have at hand to consider... but be very careful when troubleshooting a crank no start with too many "parts" as you could inadvertently create a problem where none existed and end up with two reasons the unit won't run... Like others have said check for spark, check your fuel pressure and see if the injectors are pulsing during crank ...Oh yeah one more thing..my 04 Burb had a bad ignition switch that caused intermittent Crank No Start but it did throw a P1682... Good luck ...you will find it...

[@tahoemob7305]

I love how this video is made but cant find anything where u updated what the problem actually was

[@dogslife9149]

I'm doing this job now myself but I have changed everything from plugs to crank sensor oil sensor seals on Mani and head gaskets the whole deal did most of it already before I got to Mani seal have rough idol and oil leaking hope this solves everything I'm already nervous but excited to see results

[@Hizenbird]

Question: What was the problem you were having that initiated this upgrade? "Having a problem with them"? Were they causing the car to stall? Making noise? Not switching gears?

[@Kunta1926]

Check the fuel pressure. buy a fuel pressure gauge. In gm's the gauge clips on to a shrauder valve usually some where around the fuel pressure regulator. By doing this and knowing how to read the gauge you can tell if it's the fuel pump itself, the check valve or the fuel pressure regulator. Are you getting spark? Good luck and hang in there. God speed.

[@timothyhardcastle7855]

Thanks for the video. You backed up what I heard about the gasket RTV applied to the caps.

[@lanashill7949]

Sept 2021. Hey Jimmy, just got around to replacing these gaskets. Took me an hour just to clean the crud from the manifold. Thanx for demystifying these jobs. Runs silk smooth!

[@1RoadGarage]

Glad to hear it’s up and running!

[@mtsanchez27]

@@1RoadGarage did you find out what was the cause of your truck for not to be able to start?

[@dustin3876]

Check fuel pump, injectors may be clogged up as well. Wouldn't hurt to clean the mass air flow sensor. If it's really dirty you'll know a huge difference if you spray it down with MAF sensor cleaner. Hope this helps.

[@nickpanos3405]

Under your passenger behind the driver is the tank ,take a rubber mallet whavk it a few times and put a fresh gallon of gas as well in it, my truck was not starting and when i changed my filter i came across your videos a few months ago... moral of the story i beat my head against a wall like the emd of this video i had that face and then whacked the tank and it fired.... SOUND EXACTLY LIKE HOW THIS TRUCK DOES AT THE END..... Hope it helps your videos help me as well doing my intake n knock sensors soon myself why im watching this 1.... Thanks for the awsome videos and hope you get it fired up

[@bhwjrproductions]

Nice detailed work. I just saw your video. I like the longer videos for how to projects. You probably have your truck running by now but you should test everything before you buy anything. Make sure your battery is fully charged! Start with the basic stuff compression, spark and fuel. If your fuel pump runs for 3 seconds at key on like you said than it has power. Check for fuel at the fuel schrader valve. If you have compression and spark and fuel then try spraying starter fluid into the intake. If it still won’t start you’ll need to go through the troubleshooting list in the repair manual.

[@cjmaupin4]

Did our 05 Suburban. Was pretty impressed with my self. The knox sensors were full of water.

[@StanOnDemand]

Had the same issue- cranks but no start. Ended up being a bad fuel pump. I replaced it and voila, it started right up. Good luck!

[@Hectorson3]

Thanks for this. My father just got a 02 sierra 5.3. It needs intake gaskets. Might try to tackle them myself.

[@edwardcephus154]

I want to thank you for your insight,it will help me a lot,I know this is years later but if you got gas then you need fire...anyway thanks again.good presentation.

[@salbadorruizalvarez]

Thanks for the vid and the link description sorry it didn’t go as planned but that’s the fun of it .

[@jaybee1967]

One possible problem to not starting is the crank / cam position sensor. It would have been nice to be able to access it while you had the intake manifold off

[@hasanalzaabi]

Tell us what happened with your 5.3 vortec engine did you figured out the problem... Waiting ur videos man 👌👌👌

[@timothyhardcastle7855]

I just changed my knock sensors 2006 chevy Silverado 1500 and found OEM GM AC Delco parts on eBay. 2 knock sensors and wiring harness for $61.00 free shipping. The listing had 500 sets. They were here in 4 days and the real deal.

[@gregoryjames8782]

If your an amazon affiliate try and get a fuel pressure gauge and show case it in a future video. I got mine on amazon and it works awesome and saved me a ton of money by ruling out issues I’ve had with my truck. 1999 GMC Suburban k2500 198k miles 5.7

[@tlover94]

While your intake is off you might want to change your oil pressure sending unit. It goes bad around a hundred and fifty thousand miles. Mine went out after I changed my intake gasket and my knock sensors.

[@robsshop8704]

Gino Gambino mine went but not at 150,000, I think it was 40,000 to 50,000 miles

[@xjmg007]

I'm working on this right now, went ahead and got the oil sending unit as well. Now I'm battling getting the back knock sensor off. Its rusted to hell, its soaking right now. Hopefully i can break it tomorrow.

[@cmdr_stretchedguy]

Mine had 153K when I bought it and it was already bad. I recently replaced it (closer to 170K).

[@PiggyDetector]

Mike K4ISR mine went out at 215k

[@billymz28]

269k on my tahoe oe oil sender. Still working perfect just sold vehicle today. Fuel pumps can come on and have real low pressure. Do yourself a favor get a fuel pressure test gauge. Yes good Ideal to replace them gaskets. The knock sensor I feel it's more depends on your climate you live in.

[@lewis2553]

Dude, I'm doing this right now. Trust me, it's much easier to remove the intake manifold if you go ahead and remove the injectors from the manifold (but not from the fuel rails) and also remove the throttle body first. If you try to put all that back in there together in one piece, it's going to be near impossible to keep your gaskets in place. And you should change the throttle body gasket, anyway. The oil in the manifold is normal. Mine has that, too. It's because there is no PCV VALVE. It is now a PCV ORIFICE, instead. They still call it a valve, but there's no guts in it, only an orifice. The old PCV VALVE used to only draw air through the crankcase during high vacuum conditions. There was a weight inside that restricted airflow at low vac. These ORIFICES draw it all the time. Also note that the hose off the orifice goes directly to the top of the intake manifold. Because of the loop shape of the Vortec manifold, the oil gets slung to the rim of the loop by centrifugal force where it sticks to the inside wall of the manifold and gravitates to the bottom of the loop. It's an idiotic design that hasn't gained us one inch of extra gas mileage! The old manifolds would have just passed this oil vapor on to the cylinders and burned it. These PCV ORIFICES only make matters worse!! THEY SUCK -- TOO MUCH!! I sealed the grommets of my knock sensor wires with silicone sealer, too, but it's a waste of time unless you also seal the hole where the wire passes through the grommet. And you should clean all the surfaces you're going to seal with carburetor spray, not brake cleaner, before you apply the sealant. And don't touch any of these surfaces with greasy hands before applying it. I put my silicone below the lip of the grommets, too, so that it's sandwiched between the wall of the hole and the rubber of the grommet. Someone else here suggested installing something to catch the oil. I had thought of making a trap out of a mason jar or a bottle to put in the hose from the PCV orifice to the manifold. Or if you don't mind the extra expense, you could probably buy a dryer like they put on compressed air lines between the compressor and the machine that uses the air. Those have a draincock on the bottom which makes them easy to empty. I may do that as soon as I get this thing back together. One other thing I did that I may regret later is that I thoroughly cleaned and degreased the sealing surfaces of the block and the valley cover with carburetor cleaner. Then I put FORM-A-GASKET # 2 non-hardening sealant under the valley cover gasket and # 1 fast-drying/hard-setting sealant on the top side of it. I did that because when I looked at my old gasket, it looked as flat as dog poop on an interstate! So I thought, "In a few years this new gasket will look like that one, and I want it to stay stuck and seal!!" BTW, you should have pulled the fuel pump relay before you disconnected the fuel lines for safety.

[@rileyeades1871]

Awesome comment. Currently have my manifold sitting on the ground for a knock sensor and intake gasket replacement. Currently checking around videos and posts to learn if what I’m seeing I.e. oil residue in the manifold and other such things are normal.

[@lewis2553]

@@rileyeades1871 Well, even after changing everything and every gasket on the top of the motor that could possibly leak unmetered air into the crankcase, I still have an air leak. BUT I know where it is. It's the rear main seal. It's leaking oil OUT when it's parked with front uphill on an incline and air IN when the engine is running. If you look at some of the videos about changing the rear main seal, you'll see why this happens. It seems that GM hired a complete idiot to engineer the plate that holds the seal, and the (probable athletic scholarship) jerk spent too much time studying sex, drugs, and alcohol to learn any age-old, time proven, engineering principles such as lineup pins. I'm talking about the kind you have between the motor and transmission to ensure proper alignment of the two in spite of the bolt holes being bigger than the bolts. For that reason, the rear main seal plate is free to shift out of proper alignment during installation. Being in the process of moving from Texas to Alabama, I didn't have time nor a proper garage to take on the job of changing that plate and seal right now. I'm still unloading boxes, but soon, I'll try to edit this comment to give you the cheap solution I came up with.

[@lewis2553]

@@rileyeades1871 I decided to just make a new comment instead of editing the other one. I solved the problem of unmetered air entering the crankcase like this: By unmetered air, I mean air that doesn't pass through the MAF sensor, so it isn't "seen" by the engine control module which controls your fuel/air ratio. First, I bought two extra PCV "valves". Since these are just orifices, really, they only cost about a buck and a half each. Then, I connected their big ends back to back with about 2 inches of heater hose and a couple hose clamps. Next, I put a section of PCV hose on each end of this assembly. I connected one end of this to the vacuum stub on the intake manifold in place of the hose that came from the old PCV valve. The other end now connects to the throttle body hose barb that normally has the crankcase air intake hose on it. So the air that passes through this hose enters it at a point between the MAF sensor and the throttle plate, as it should, and exits the hose at the intake manifold vacuum stub, as it should. With the two identical sized orifices in the air path, the air flow is limited to what it should be. Since the crankcase is now isolated from this air path, its leaks no longer affect the air mixture nor are they "seen" by the ECM. But the crankcase still needs to be ventilated. To ventilate it, I drilled out the orifice of the old PCV "valve" as large as possible and dropped a hose from it to the frame where it was tied between two brake lines with plastic cable ties with its end facing the rear of the vehicle. This acts as a draft tube like they used before PCV was invented. On the PCV intake side (the hose that I disconnected from the throttle body that lets air into the crankcase via the valve cover on the side opposite the PCV valve), I installed one of those see-through, plastic fuel filters to filter the air entering the crankcase. And that's it! The crankcase is now ventilated, the ECM is satisfied, and idiotic engineering has been circumvented by someone WITHOUT a college degree! Hope this helps you!

[@joylesstiger]

@@lewis2553Thanks for keeping the information alive by putting it up here. Looking to do my '06 Sierra knock sensor soon so I'll bear this in mind.

[@kevg644]

9:40 it's probably from the PCV valve. It takes vapor from the oil Escaping from the valve cover and recycles it into the intake.

[@Tamn498]

Correct the recyceling of the cranke case fumes into intake. The way to keep the oil droplets out is to instal a catch can and monitor how fast it is filling up based on your use. Mine is every 2k miles and time to empty catch can or get a self empting can. All cost.

[@eldonerc2524]

Its a crank position sensor.

[@kennyrogers3919]

If your learning you should buy a Chiltons repair manual for your car and instead of KZbining everything because most KZbin vids are just opinions and the manual is facts! Like torque specs. You’ll learn a lot faster!! Good luck bro! 👍🏻 I liked you video

[@donho3617]

Reading all the comments, I can see why Autozone sells so many parts. If you don't know how to diagnose a system, get a book. If you do not have the proper testing tools, you can rent them from Autozone for free. Stop using a parts canon to try to fix your car. My neighbor had a check engine light on. Took it to Autozone to have it scanned. They sold him four O2 sensors, a MAF sensor, coils and plugs. Did not fix the problem. He asked me to look at it. Started with the basics. Fuel, air, spark. Checked the fuel pressure with a gauge. Low pressure. Tested the regulator and found it to be not holding pressure. Replaced the fuel filter as the regulator is in the filter. The neighbor gave over $400 to Autozone. The filter from Rockauto was $30 and fixed the problem.

[@nobodyinparticular5224]

Some of the comments are... sobering, when I ponder, these peeps are driving on the same streets as I am.

[@ctcjtc4]

Appreciate your videos!! They are definitely helpful. Thank you for what you do.

[@mikea1676]

Good job Bubba!! Sorry it didn't fix your issue.. Funny thing is that you did THIS and were apprehensive about doing your fuel pump.. I did my fuel pump (was shorting out and blowing the main fuse) and am apprehensive about doing this.. I feel better about it now.. Thanks..

[@1RoadGarage]

Comments like yours help me keep this going. Thanks!!

[@stevepope5484]

I just found this. Thanks. I need to remove my intake. I see this was 4 years ago. I saw the Schrader valve on top.cause I pushed it in. Guess that's where u check pressure with a loaner Guage. Supposed to be pretty high. What'd they tell u?55psi. Your brave! I hope to put this 5.3 into a rusty 1967 Chevelle.

[@nathanielbolden5053]

Did you remember to plug in the map and crank sensor?...

[@nobodyinparticular5224]

Ashford Combs 1 year ago Fuel pump hello 1ROAD 1 year ago Correct

[@agooser26]

Sorry to hear that you didn't get it figured out. I would not have thought it was that right off, but you had your reasons. You should update what it was ;)

[@JuanNevarez-o1y]

My tahoe was doing the same and I just replaced the fuel pump and now is running great

[@nathanielbolden5053]

The oil in your throttle body is coming from the pcv valve!...replace or delete it!!!...otherwise LS RULES!!!

[@denisstitt9413]

Check your pvc. A friend has a 6.0 and every time he would start it cold it would smoke real bad until it cleared up. He was told he needed an engine until he finally talked to the right guy about his pvc and fixed it also saved 2500 dollars

[@harveyr2546]

Also a good tip, change your oil pressure sending switch in the back of intake manifold. Just good insurance

[@tyrannosaurusmex5033]

I agree totally

[@Mr.G626]

i changed that and the camshaft position sensor lol

[@Krunkle78]

I just had to do my knock sensors and while I was in there I did my oil sensor and that was weird with the oil coming out of the throttle body, mine didn't have any coming out hmm great vid tho! I know I'm late to the party lol

[@scottgordon2160]

I have a 2005 5.3 L was having the same problem with it not wanting to start.You didn't waste your time replacing that intake manifold gasket because by 70,000 miles it won't start to degrade to the point where it needs to be replaced but by the time you get to a 130-140,000 miles it's going to become an issue. Oils going to start dribbling all down the back of your engine you'll see.Actually you won't because you've already replaced it. But your fuel pump is the most likely cause if you've got spark.With only 70,000 miles your ignition should be fine.With these fuel pumps if this car was driven below an eighth of a tank time and time again that fuel pump got hot burned itself up and it's no longer giving you the pressure you need at startup.You might try throttling it till it cranks over I got my ex wifes Suburban started time and time again till I worked up the gumption to replace the fuel pump.After the new fuel pump no longer had any issue starting right up on the first click. And seeing how meticulous and analytical you are you could do this fuel pump it doesn't take nothing but a little tenacity and careful thought and you're wired that way anyway.You should have no problem replacing the fuel pump. It will be a little bit of a pain disconnecting and reconnecting some of those lines. You have to do it while the tanks kind of hangin there partially suspended it's a bit of a pain but you can do it brother. Here's Wishing you success Bro, Scott G.

[@dtnel]

Just drop the tank and you can make sure you get the ring lose properly and no hassling with it hanging suspended partially in the air.

[@blainwilson7937]

I got close to 300,000 miles on my Chevy 2001 5.3L V8 and and she still purrs like a kitten. I did recently change the plugs and wires and and replaced the fuel pump 3 years ago.

[@slshock]

Exactly

[@wilfredovilanova8455]

Is better to pull out the 4 bolts holding the box at the side of the tank, the other side make them like 3/4” loose. Lift the rear with 2 pieces of wood 13”. It will have snuff space to take it out. If you need to rewire the pump, loose the wire from the frame. It has like 2 plastic strap, loose them , then because is longer you can do it easy out side.

[@braydenjohnson730]

Gotta love the tryagnose. Bet the parts guys love you. 😂

[@ipissed]

Parts guy: You know if you just get ALL the parts you will never have to do it again. 1ROAD: 🤔 That makes sense.

[@colormesarge]

Literally saw those knock sensors and was like "RETURN TIME!!" too bad he put a Dorman part in instead lol

[@AA1PR]

good video how ever Im not sure you put your intake tube back on I know mine wont start with that off what was the problem ?

[@nobodyinparticular5224]

Ashford Combs 1 year ago Fuel pump hello 1ROAD 1 year ago Correct

[@jvirg]

I seen you used the red gasket maker I seen some videos where people use the black silicone. There's also one in the store that says its cured in 90 min. Another one says one minute. I I'm not sure which one to use.

[@chrisferrell6159]

Guys when your intake leaks loosen all 10 bolts. Then lift and jingle the intake. then run the bolts back down in a crisscross pattern. Tork in the same pattern. That should stop the leek.

[@Robert-w9k3y]

I have oil inside mine too can you tell me what you did to fix that

[@RIchardDavidson007]

I copied this job part and word for word. Came out great.

[@JG-yd8so]

The OE plastic intakes will warp over time and mileage. Aftermarket makes some reinforced intakes that are better than OE. The vacuum sound in cab could be from brake booster, cruise control cutoff or HVAC vacuum actuators. The sealing of knock sensor covers should only seal until the small section facing the rear of the engine. The engine is slightly lower in the rear, so any moisture will pool to the far rear of the motor, not entering the knock sensor cavities while still allowing moisture vapor to escape from small unsealed section.

[@MrEyad1990]

you need to install a catch can , clean the intake and throttle body very good then install the catch can , it will catch all of the vacuumed motor oil and will keep everything clean .

[@kemicala]

did he check for fuel pressure and spark before throwing parts at this?

[@ronniedane6659]

Nice video I just got done doing all of that on my GMC Yukon for the third time come to find out the last time I did it I cracked the intake I guess I overturn them but not this time I also put a fuel pump in my truck I can't wait to try to start it to see how it runs I'll let you know

[@ptours99]

there's no guess work when you use proper guages [fuel,vacuum,volt meter]

[@lukemylo]

The hose going from the valve cover to throttle body, put in a filter

[@kevinschmitt9220]

Great videos bud, handy to take pics as you disassemble to reference when re assembly 😀 👍