2. Dodge 48RE Rebuild - Overdrive Assembly Part 2

[@rbarr1200]

You’re set of videos (I’ve been watching the 48re) are the most informative. You have a great teaching ability.

[@nickstransmissions]

Thanks, man - appreciate the kind words!

[@douglasallbright5780]

These videos are by and far the best I have seen on any channel. I am about to dive into the rebuild of my 48RE. You ROCK my friend thank you for producing such high quality content.

[@nickstransmissions]

Thanks you for the feedback, Douglas!

[@nickstransmissions]

Check eBay for all-inclusive kits that come with steel modules and sprag/roller clutches and OD bearings-bearing plate. I prefer the Alto high energy frictions or the stock BW for anything other than a high performance/racing application. Also upgrade the Servo assemblies and accumulator to billet versions as your existing intermediate and low reverse servo pistons are likely worn at the pin bores (common with the 4XRE/RH Dodge four speed transmission family)

[@kaseymortensen75]

What kit, seller/brand do you recommend on ebay or Amazon?

[@alfredorhs]

you will know that I have assembled my 48re thanks to your videos I have seen it over and over again, I have the book but the doubts are cleared up with your videos thank you for you time and videos, man

[@nickstransmissions]

That's great to hear, man! Thanks again.

[@markrich3271]

@ 4:30 Your two Grove ID overdrive clutch basket has grooving . Is that OK? I have the same heat check grooving in my basket. I opted to buy a new one in fear of that being the reason my overdrive fluttered at barley any throttle highway cruising .

[@nickstransmissions]

Thank you for the comment, Mark...I don't recall it having actual grooving in the surface, just wear patterns which is fine as long as you cannot physically feel any groves, scoring, etc in the housing surface. If yours was sufficiently scored/worn or had visible signs of heat damage then it was the right move to replace it.

[@markrich3271]

@@nickstransmissions Mine did , does have scoring in every groove that could be felt with a fingernail. I even tried to sand it out with 600 grit . I figured for the 50 bucks it cost for a new one just buy it . Thanks for answering and putting my mind at ease. Great videos BTW

[@dpgoverride]

For anyone watching this that may be using an OD Housing Shim Saver and having trouble getting it too seat. I had to take some material off the tabs that face down to the rear of the case. As well I sanded the ring a little with 220. Holding the snap ring open with a 2x4 on top of the case give it a few good whacks, once the ring is nearly seated in the bearing groove you can take the 2x4 and alternate side to side tapping until it fully seats. Likely this is just from inconsistentcies in the case and bearings where .001 makes the difference of fully seated or not.

[@marcusgraf1443]

What 48re case upgrades can I do to help out my build your videos have been so helpful

[@nickstransmissions]

Thanks, MarcUs…upgrades to the case usually consist of billet parts and the amount of money you sink into those should be based on the frequency and amount of stress the trans will be under when in use. Billet servo/cover and accumulator/cover are a hood start. Billet shafts and then drums when power/torque levels go way beyond stock in street/strip, full race or other specialized applications.

[@marcusgraf1443]

I was talking about drilling holes for the sprag to get oiled better stuff like that

[@nickstransmissions]

Oh ok…yes you can drill a .040-.050 hole in the rear of the case for addl lube to the rear sprag. This link should provide a pic…the hole should be .600” from the bore www.cumminsforum.com/threads/48re-alto-028756a-powerpack.2330809/page-3#lg=thread-2330809&slide=5

[@Jsdiesel1776]

These videos are amazing, and so informative! Thank you for making them! Quick question, do you have to use an alignment tool to reassemble the OD housing? Or can you align it once the snap rings are back in place to hold back the spring?

[@nickstransmissions]

Thanks, Jacob! I always align everything using the tool (which is just a sawed-off intermediate shaft) first then press the spring back into position, finishing it off w/the snap rings. You prob could get away with doing it as you describe but it may be more difficult under spring tension.

[@Jsdiesel1776]

@@nickstransmissions okay I gotcha. Thank you for the response!

[@kallen68]

When setting the case does the output bearing sit flush in the case or suspend by the snap ring? I have no case wear under the bearing but the snap ring holds the bearing from the case

[@nickstransmissions]

The output bearing sits in its pocket on the hub (it's the same location where the press tool sits when pressing the hub into the OD assembly to collapse the giant OD-Direct return spring). the OD brake clutch retaining snap ring does not make contact with any part of the main case or bearing when the OD housing is mated.

[@kallen68]

@@nickstransmissions Thanks for your reply. Your talking thrust bearings. The output bearing is the bearing on the other end, on the output shaft. The one the snap ring is spread apart for the overdrive unit to drop and install into the case. The space I’m referring to is what some builders are taking up with a shim from snap ring groove wear. I’m wondering if by design the retaining snap ring holds the whole assembly and the bearing isn’t supposed to make contact with the case if it’s in good condition.

[@nickstransmissions]

My apologies. You’re correct, there shouldn’t be any contact between the ouput support bearing and case if the case is in servicable shape. Yep, yhe shim you’re referring to is made by Superior Tech and is made for cases worn by the snap ring.

[@douglasallbright5780]

Hey would you be willing to provide me the dimensions of that tool? I have some 1/4 inch and some 1/2 in plate that I could use to build that tool

[@douglasallbright5780]

Anyone happen to know the dimensions on this tool I would need the inside and outside diameter of the ring

[@nickstransmissions]

You can use the diameter of the surface of the hub where the tool sits once you have it on the bench. Whatever that diameter is, cut a piece then cut an identical piece for the top without the cutout. I believe the height is 8 or 9 inches