2000 Hampton Bay 20” High Velocity Fan | Before Restoration

[@1998MonroeNYColonial]

I think I remember seeing some of these 20” Hampton Bay Patton fans back in the early 2000’s. I even remember seeing one of these back in 2018 at the Dutchess Community College tutoring center in Poughkeepsie, NY where I used to go to school. Back in the day they also made a 12” version the model HBF 12, that I happen to have in my collection. Jordan U also has the same 12” model that I own.

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Cool! These were probably some of the last good HV fans made, as the early 2000s was the cusp of most fan manufacturing heading overseas. I like those 12" versions as well. I find them to be a good balance of compactness and performance.

[@LemontTheFanMan]

I can’t wait to see that the service video on this fan it is quite powerful it’s basically a rebranded Patton Fan unfortunately the original Patton company went out of business in 1995 then other companies started taking over the intellect and what’s left of it and from there on the Patton was just a brand name up until Jordan home environment dropped the brand altogether which sad however Amazon still sell the 20” and 18” one of the fan or what’s left of it

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Neat! Sounds like those may be just remaining inventory. It really is unfortunate that Patton went under, since I would say they made some of the best high velocity fans in the 70s up until the 90s. Hoping to service this one in the summer when I have some time!

[@TheFanUniverse]

I absolutely love these straight blade high velocity fans! They have a really distinct US vibe about them that I can’t really explain why, but I like it a lot hahaha. Man that design flaw with the tilt is so annoying, my Sekai 18” high velocity floor fan have tilt limiters that max out at about the same angle as your fan and it drives me nuts. For that switch plate I suggest covering it with some clear sticker or clear packing tape. I tried it with the new indicator plate I printed for my blue Sanyo vent fan & some other recent projects and it works wonders!

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Same! The blades do give the fan a really tough, industrial look. Yeah the limited tilt is such a strange usability restriction. I have no idea why some of these fans have limiters, since I can't think of any reasons why you wouldn't want a fan to tilt down. Genius idea, clear tape hadn't even crossed my mind! I was thinking of just spray painting over it with a gloss clear, but there could be a risk of the paint solvents attacking the switch plate ink. I'll definitely keep that in mind when I service it.

[@TheBehemothHyper]

Nice! Hopefully there’s a restoration video soon.

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Thanks Matt! Hoping to do a restoration video on it this summer!

[@Mark-tj5sn]

Recently been looking into a fan I have from the 80's was unfortunately unable to find anything on the brand Shogun in terms of fans, it's interesting the amount of video's on fans that you have

[@TheSuperFanMan]

You have found the “cool” corner of KZbin! Interesting, I haven’t heard of that brand either. Perhaps it was a store-specific brand name.

[@Daconthocon78]

Hampton bay fan from Patton is rare where I live, they're usually imported ones I see more of.

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Ah that's likely the slightly later ones. I don't see very many of these early Hampton Bay fans either. I think they're generally less common because they were just sold at Home Depot rather than at many stores like the Patton versions.

[@Daconthocon78]

@@TheSuperFanMan I had memories of seeing the 12 in Patton made ones being used at the Home Depot and the imported hampton bays are still better than the new ones at the hd.

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Yeah I agree. I believe the early imported Patton HV fans had Raider motors, which were still good despite the lack of oil ports.

[@davidzeringuethefanman6292]

I really enjoyed the video awesome fan

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!

[@PlsCancelTTCL]

Those clip-on hinges are also existent in the Asahi PF-630 and other fans I have except my WF-625R.

[@FC70YT]

Recently got a rare Hoover pivoting fan, but it has this really loud buzzing noise when it first starts, it’s gone when the fan is at full speed, but it’s also unable to run at low as it completely bogs down.

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Very cool! Just saw your video on it. It sounds like the bearings are worn out. Check for any up-down play, which is usually the most common form of sleeve bearing wear. Oiling can help depending on the severity.

[@Dara.Bortolato_2006]

Davvero un bel modello

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Yes, I agree!

[@sawmaster6095]

I have a McMillan shaded four-pole motor for my Honeywell HEPA filter, and the bushing on the side where the driveshaft connects to the fan is experiencing a lot of resistance. How would you recommend dealing with this? Could I drizzle some 3 in 1 oil down the shaft and hope that works? Because otherwise, it looks like I'd have to remove the rivets that hold it together, and I guess I would use self-tapping screws to put it back together? I could send pics to make it more clear if you would like. Thanks!

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Assuming your motor has sleeve bearings (not ball bearings), the resistance is either due to dry bearing surface, gummy oil, or misalignment. First, see if the bearing is out of alignment by tapping the motor shaft with the handle of a screwdriver a few times from various angles. These sleeve bearings sit in sockets that allow them to pivot, and sometimes they can go out of alignment from vibrations. The tapping nudges them back. Check if the motor shaft spins any freer than it did before. If it does, then that's likely all it needs, though a couple drops of oil will help too. If tapping doesn't fix it, the bearing most likely has an lubrication issue. A dry bearing is when there is insufficient oil, and gummy oil is when the existing oil has turned into a thick goop, from deterioration and/or contamination. Ideally, for long-term reliability, it's best to open up the motor to clean out the bearing and oil it, but it's not always necessary to do so. Try applying a few drops of oil into the bearing first, to see if it frees up. If it does free up, it's probably good, though it may develop a similar issue down the road, especially if the culprit is gummy oil, since the old oil would still be in the bearing. If you're comfortable with disassembling the motor, it's the best way to fully clean out the bearing and re-oil it. You can certainly drill out the rivets, but I recommend using machine screws and nuts when reassembling. Here is a video I made of a Patton fan that is fitted with a McMillan motor. This motor may be slightly different than your's but its general contruction is likely the same. Notice the use of machine screws to hold the casings together. The steps I took to service the motor (starting at around the 27:25 mark) in this video should apply to your motor as well: kzbin.info/www/bejne/r5XEnmWteMlgm5o Hope it helps! Feel free to ask any questions you have!

[@Charlie-Hayes]

I have the '01 Patton U2-20 model that indeed has both the clip-on hinges and tightening nob just FYI as you mentioned in the video Patton did not have these in comparing the fans. Mine '01 Patton U2-20 also has the cord wrap where you mentioned the ones you have did not...Along with the. black motor as to your blue one...... Anyways, servicing my '01 Patton as it stopped working. I've taken it completely apart and cleaned/oiled it crossing fingers that when I put it back together it would turn on.... IT DIDN'T. -So started looking on YT for help; thats how I came across your channel. So appreciate the video and providing great content... I gave a like and sub'ed!! PS.... Any chances on knowing what to do next (in getting my '01 Patton U2-20 running again) - All the best. Charlie

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Thank you! When you plug the fan in and switch it on, does the motor hum at all? If it does hum or buzz, the bearings are likely misaligned, and aligning them by tapping the shaft with the handle of a screwdriver will help. I’m thinking you already watched it, but I have a video of the servicing process of a 1998 Patton fan that may help: kzbin.info/www/bejne/r5XEnmWteMlgm5o If the motor does not hum when you switch it on, it’s likely an electrical issue. If you have a multimeter, measure the continuity between the two prongs of the plug on each speed (with the fan unplugged of course). A working fan should show a resistance reading on every speed. If it reads “open”, then there is a disconnection somewhere, but most likely the thermal fuse in the motor. In the video I linked earlier, I took the motor wires out of the switch (at 7:16 in the video). If you’re able pop the motor wires out, check the continuity again between the white wire from the motor and each of the other wires (ie. continuity between white&blue, white&black, white&red). If they read “open”, then it’s most certainly the thermal fuse. Unfortunately, it’s a tedious task to replace the thermal fuse, as it’s usually nested very close to the delicate motor windings and is securely tied. I’d recommend tackling this only if you’re comfortable working with electrical components. At the 33:48 mark in the video I linked, there is an area on the motor windings that is zip tied together. I’m pretty sure the thermal fuse is located under the plastic tape. The fuse is usually either shaped like a little pill with thin metal lead wires on each end, or a small plastic square. There should be a temperature rating printed on it. It can be carefully desoldered and a replacement fuse of identical voltage and temperature rating can be installed. This video by a fellow fan collector might be helpful: kzbin.info/www/bejne/q2OQY6J7g7x3jtk If the motor wires do show continuity, the problem might be located in the switch, the cord or the motor capacitor, the black plastic box that is sitting next to the switch. If it is the capacitor, you can purchase a new one (eBay is good; search for two-wire ceiling fan capacitor) that has the same microfarad (µF) rating and the same or higher max. voltage rating. The new capacitor can simply be soldered on, and the polarity of the two wires is irrelevant on these AC induction motors. Hope it helps! Feel free to let me know any other questions you have.

[@vanessavieux7283]

I love your videos super Man fan have a absolutely wonderful day good job have a super day have a great day have a nice day have a awesome day have a cool day super Man fan

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Glad you enjoyed it! Hope you have a good day.

[@achoxisback2171]

I came here from Jared owen mecanism of Fan video

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Welcome! You may have found one of the “coolest” channels on KZbin lol.

[@Im_older_than_Sam]

I need a new blade for my Hampton Bay HBF-20 (120V 60 Hz 2.7 AMPS). Anybody know a source or applicable part number? Thank you!

[@Im_older_than_Sam]

@TheSuperFanMan ...or anybody have any advice on a replacement blade for my Hampton Bay HBF-20 (120V 60 Hz 2.7 AMPS). Thanks in advance!

[@fansoffans7756]

First

[@TheSuperFanMan]

Real quick indeed!