2000 HOURS LATER! Chinese Diesel Heater

My faithful Chinese Diesel Heater has kept me warm and hot on some extreme overland winter vanlife adventures in my self built campers. But it’s failing on me, the bearings are broken and loud, the exhaust has rusted. Time for a service, I strip down the heater and find it clean with no real soot in the burn chamber. I show how to replace the motor bearings with high quality Japanese ones and install a need style of heater exhaust muffler / silencer to make it more quiet. I replaced my original heater controller with a Afterburner.
AMAZON STORE ----- www.amazon.co....
Heater 5kw - amzn.to/3jg5fOy
Heater 5kw ( Bluetooth ) - amzn.to/3WoI03a
Heater 2kw - amzn.to/3BNNI6y
Exhaust silencer / muffler
amzn.to/3FbGJ8o
amzn.to/3FF7wv8
Exhaust clamps 26-28mm amzn.to/3W2V0ew
Bearing used were EZO brands 625zz
 #Chinesedieselheater #Campervanheating #Mispronouncedadventures
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[@MispronouncedAdventures]

What is the main failure point of Chinese diesel heater you have experienced?

[@allen5976]

@@geminiman6938 that's really a consumable really though, you have to expect to need to replace these. Same in my wood pellet stove

[@gloknor]

The fuel pump and the fan motor wear out the quickest on all of my heaters. Make sure to have extra fuel atomizers on hand. I found fastest way to clean out blast tube from soot is to use propane torch to cook it out then compressed air to blow out .

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

@@gloknor interesting I very rarely hear people talk about pump failure, water ingress into the plug area?

[@gloknor]

@@MispronouncedAdventures Yeh they go bad just like everything else. I have taken these apart and fixed them over the years many many times . Make sure to get replacement screens they get funked up .

[@fleabag72]

Cheap nasty m/b and controller giving nasty unusable settings

[@Allan9966]

The Z designation on the bearing means it has a metal shield holding the grease in. A ZZ bearing means it has those metal shields on both sides which is what you need on the heater. You also come across RS or 2RS bearings which means they have rubber shields instead of metal ones. They probably wouldn't stand the heat in this application.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Thank you. I had been wondering the z & zz. I knew Z was metal. I just didn’t know both.

[@stevecarlisle3323]

Thats why you but the CERAMIC bearings for upgrade

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

@@stevecarlisle3323 I had considered ceramic, but I couldn’t find any examples where people had to use them in a diesel heater for these particular circumstances. So I choose a more known and tested option.

[@Lucentlens]

Good to know, esp as I have a Kirby vacuum cleaner! The motors & therefore bearings on these I don't think experience much heat - if anything - experience a lot of very cold.

[@juliogonzo2718]

@@Lucentlens yeah I don't think rubber seals would be a problem. If the motor got hot enough to melt the seals you have bigger problems

[@theartofwanderlust]

I live in Canada, and use one of these diesel heaters in my RV, when it get's below -30, I mix 50/50 diesel and kerosine the heater runs flawlessly

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Aye quite a few people do fuel mixes. For the cold with there diesel doesn’t come with additives

[@andysutils]

I searched endlessly for a video with full info on bearings. Legend for making this video

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Glad it’s been helpful!

[@Proteus6684]

I love the community in these videos that answer the random questions like what the extra Z on the bearing means....and then proceed to go into more detail I didn't ask nor ponder for but actually really satisfied they did

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Definitely one of the bit I enjoy my community and the more technical videos! Community members sharing and explaining

[@BeFs]

Thank you for making this video! I really love when people take the time to make and edit these.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

No problem, thank you for watching

[@MidKn1ghtNate]

i have roughly 14,000 hours on my chinese diesel heater. I've cleaned it out once. Bearings make a little noise when it's cold but once it warms up it's quiet. It's running great even right now. I have 3 spare fans i bought when i first got it and haven't used any of them yet. I have new 2 spare pumps I haven't used either of those yet. I got a couple glow plugs i haven't used. 1 Bag of 10 fuel atomizers I only used 1 when i cleaned it the first time. Best $150USD I ever spent and it runs almost 24/7 in the cold weather from about October till the end of April. I can get 10 of these for the price of one of name brands. I run mine at my Custom Low Setting of 2.5Hz, 2500 RPM, 1280 Feet Elevation, heat exchanger stays around 180-190C (356 - 374F) with outdoor temps at -4C ( 24F )

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

There are great units when you get good ones, installed well and tuned for your needs. I will being heading back to the Arctic this winter is looking for -40c with it. ( and spares )

[@chasmarischen4459]

Thanks for those settings (just-in-case).

[@geoffszczypior644]

They must have got all the electronics welded in correctly very rare. It will let you down when you realy need heat.

[@ShotGunner5609]

The permiation of AVE quotes/phrases in any channel that does anything even remotely mechanical always makes me smile. Thanks for sharing!

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

😊 glad it was enjoyed!

[@seldoon_nemar]

Other's have mentioned RTV, but it's something to have in an emergency kit for your van. it's gasket in a tube. RTV stands for Room Temp Vulcanization, so once it's set, it's propper rubber. you can use it to fix a lot of problems in an emergency. I've even seen it used to fix tents if the fabric will bond with it

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Thank you. I have definitely been educated on many different solutions for gasket repair because of this video.

[@Adz]

I was always thinking I’d be looking at one of the more expensive diesel heaters in my next van but after seeing your set up with that better controller I might have to re consider. Helpful video!

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

The afterburner in my eyes makes the Chinese heater have better functionality than the western brands

[@The_Touring_Jedi]

​​@@MispronouncedAdventuresThis means Chineese are going slower but surely advancing in tech in compare to Western one. They are already slowly taking over car industry as any other.Well...when the profits are above all this is what you get at the end.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

@@The_Touring_Jedi Chinese heaters normally are just okay. The afterburner controller was a project by Australian to make the Chinese heaters better

[@ringonotts]

Great video! I think you proved that by using the heater all the time keeps it in best shape! Also - a man after my own heart - someone that carries a spare heater. I run eberspachers (thats all you could buy 12 years ago when i had to replace my heater) but when they give up the ghost i will be moving over to a chinese model. New sub here!

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Thank you for subscribing. I definitely with the heater are well installed and you buy a good one from maybe of the different companies then they can run just, But definitely carry a spare one just in case

[@64TommyG]

@@MispronouncedAdventures I need to dissect some Webasto heaters on some Ford Transits from between 95-99 that have probably been sitting too long... An inverter from 12V DC to 230V AC works as a spare heating fan plus the regular compartment heater. For longer distances, a separate generator may be needed and or extra batteries...

[@whatyousaidbud]

Thanks for your time.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Thank you for yours

[@richiebainbridge2608]

A good advert for Chinese heaters. They are that good I have one in the van and two in my sheds. Crackin.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I think it’s shows some are better then others and how important install is

[@lifetimeofworktodo]

I am incredibly happy to see you running the Afterburner. I've installed 7 of these heaters now and won't install one without the Afterburner. Ray Jones is a god. Thanks for the link to the exhaust - I hadn't seen this style option before.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

100%. I pretty much wouldn’t use a run one of these heaters without the afterburner. I don’t even find the other big brands control systems comparable in functionality.

[@justmyopinion5234]

What is the afterburner part you speak of

[@nathanaelbadstubner]

@@justmyopinion5234 the Controll Pannel is called Afterburner I guess

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

The third party aftermarket controller for Chinese diesel heaters is called a “Afterburner” which does occasionally add to confusion with the name, afterburner used on a type of jet engine

[@GW-kg3dc]

Give mate, we just bought a traffic and there is a diesel heater underneath pull out bed the guy built but jo exhaust so I dont want to use it ,, where do you cut a hole for the exhaust fumes ? Thanks George

[@royalspin]

After seeing several videos about this kind of heater including this one I've been thinking about getting one of these heaters . The lack of build up is pretty impressive. I just wish they came in bigger sizes or had a higher BTU output. I have a large shop and heating it with propane has gotten really spendy as of late . I definitely like the flexibility of being able to use other fuels besides diesel .I've seen videos where people are using waste oil and other kinds of oil and this thing just keeps chugging along . Seems pretty impressive for the money plus it's possible to rebuild it ? That's a big selling point to me especially considering how many items being sold these days have to be tossed in the trash once they break down .

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Yeah I was very impressed with the lack of build up. There are lots of 5kw units sold as 8kw, however I have seen some rare photos of a real 8kw unit before. But it would be probably easier to buy and run 5kw for a large spare. That being said I had heated a large work shop using 5kw I’ve also a good point on. You can just buy a whole need unit if need be

[@juliogonzo2718]

They are cheap enough you could buy two for your shop. I don't think I would try used oil though

[@randybobandy9828]

I can't imagine heating with diesel would be cheaper than propane. Propane is about $2.80 a gallon where I live and diesel is $5 a gallon. While diesel has about 45% more btus per gallon than diesel its almost double the price.

[@stephenlipton525]

@@randybobandy9828 in the UK diesel is the cheaper option. Kerosene even cheaper again. But the downside of kerosene is that you have to have a tank whereas the diesel can come from the vehicle tank.

[@randybobandy9828]

@stephenlipton525 wow that's crazy. Why is propane so much?

[@workingclassless84]

Factory settings caused mine to soot up within a couple of weeks. I probably removed about a kg of soot which was insane. I did watch alot of videos as far as tips for setup and made sure It I had it all covered. Ultimately I had to lean out my air/fuel mixture to have it burn cleanly, but still get maximum heat. It was annoying to have to do that so early, but I had alot of fun seeing the inner workings of the heater.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I think part of the issue as there are so many different ECU / controllers use which control all of the components, fan motor, pump speed, temperature sensors, and so on that they are not all equal. Some heaters with standard settings seem to work absolutely fine whilst a different heater with a different board/controller on a standard settings might not

[@workingclassless84]

@@MispronouncedAdventures Exactly, with these heater systems looking seemingly identical I would assume variations in electronic components and lower level qc is what causes the huge variations in performance even withing the same batch. I was prepared to have to mess with it, just didn't think it would be that quick lol.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I think it’s more the ECU’s variation than quality control issues. I mean obviously there are quality control issues overall and they do make issues , but I don’t think in most cases affect performance. Or at least the quality control issues in the cast body parts shouldn’t effect performance to much

[@iguanamoat]

I had almost the exact same experience. Not only were the factory settings way higher than what is typically recommended for these heaters, the fuel pump itself was pumping way more than it should. I think this was the seller's way of turning the 5kw heater into an '8kw' one. I had to dial the settings way down and buy a normal fuel pump to sort that out.

[@chasmarischen4459]

@@iguanamoat How do you define a 'normal fuel pump'? I'm learning as much as I can, so as to not mess my new heater up. Thanks in advance.

[@w124mercedes7]

I run the planar 44d diesel heater as my main heat in my 32ft motorhome . I now have 5 years run time on it. I start it in the fall and it runs non stop till spring. So it's running 24/7 for 6 months non stop. And zero problems. I had webasto and eberspacher but always had a problem getting parts. Someone told me about the planar brand which were originally made for Russian military vehicles in antarctic. Sure you can buy 5 or 6 heaters made of Chineseium Scrap metal for the price of a planar. But I like doing a job once and being done. I am still running the original exhaust. Controller. Fuel pump and fuel line. I do remove my filter every year and blow it out as its a serviceable filter. I have found this heater to operate 75deg f running %15% used oil from my diesel Mercedes after it has sat for 6 months and filtered. I found the extra heat keeps the burn chamber from sooting. I also add a few oz of LIQUI MOLLY DIESEL ADDITIVE which seems to help with soot and keeping the glow screen clean. I also heated my 28ft cabin cruiser for 7 years with one of these heaters and heated my 42ft double cabin 2 bath hatteras classic yacht with the larger heater. Personally I love diesel heaters but with today's fuel prices at $5.85 a gallon This year I have used propane heat. What parts do you live and what are fuel cost there. Here in america creepy & crooked joe biden has made a real mess of our country. Under trump we were totally energy dependent and exporting reserves But biden destroyed that his first day in office. Hopefully the world will get back to normal after he is gone and russia/Ukraine is over. It looks like you have a lifestyle close to mine being free and exploring. I wish you well and safe happy travels. I will sub to you and check out further content from you. Take care and be safe. Robert

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I am a fan of the Planar ( now Autoterm ) units, I’ve fitted a few. I think they are some of the best options available for price and quality

[@davidstorton910]

If you use the new gasket as a template and cut one from a cardboard box (cereal is brilliant) and seal it with gasket sealant it would have been a better job mate and you still have the new gasket for your other heater

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Very true, a few people have said the cereal box cardboard does make good gaskets

[@chasmarischen4459]

Thank. Good to learn that.

[@anthonyrmay1502]

Thank you for putting my mind at rest regarding using these heaters

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Don’t know if you mean that in a good or bad way. But these heaters have a wide range of quality because there’s probably 50+ factories, which produce them some crap some better. This particular heater in the video is now at 4500 run hours. £6 in bearings and one pump.

[@MJ-ge6jz]

Outstanding repair video! I had to download it for my off-line files.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Thank you, lovely comment:)

[@chasemartin4450]

This video sold me on these Chinese diesel heaters 1000%. Soot contamination from burning a poor mixture had always been my biggest concern, but it looks like I massively overestimated the risk.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

No all Chinese Heater are equal. But searching out a good brand in the first place will help

[@chasemartin4450]

@@MispronouncedAdventures Aren't they though? Every one I've seen (in their respective 2 / 5 / 8 kW categories) has been mechanically identical.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Body wise they will be same. But the ECU which runs the Heater is where the main difference.

[@chasemartin4450]

@@MispronouncedAdventures Good to know. The stock control behavior on these Chinese heaters is terrible so my plan has always been to build a custom ECU and "thermostat" when I rewire my van and install one of these heaters.

[@georgebarnes8163]

Just like yourself I love to experiment with these Chinese heaters, currently running two of them to heat my home with the electrical power provided by solar power stored in batteries. Love the videos.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Yeah definitely a few things I’d like to play with with those heater if I had more time

[@georgebarnes8163]

@@MispronouncedAdventures I have been using a medical dose feed pump with limited success but I think I can improve on it with different gearing, these pumps produce none of the deadly bubbles in the fuel line but their stock RPM is just too low

[@ronwest7930]

Ive watched many videos while considering buying one of these. Running the heater on high for 10 or fifteen minutes before shutdown is mentioned as a way to help keep the unit cleaner from soot.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Personally I don’t bother and it haven’t bothered in 4500 run hours. Sooting up isn’t an issue in my heater. maybe that’s as I have a working thermostat

[@Michael.OJackson]

The fan error you had in the arctic could have been something to do with your solar charge controller adjusting to colder temps if you have it running from that and not directly to battery

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I’m not sure that will be the case. The solar charger controller wouldn’t have anything to do with the PWM of the fan

[@diandana]

I bet the Aurora is guilty for the error. The fan speed sensor is a hall sensor (aka magnetic field sensor) and most likely hates auroras.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Hmm that’s an interesting thought. It’s worked every other Arctic winter night with aurora

[@MarcusHawksley]

​@@MispronouncedAdventuresthe aurora explanation has a nice ring to it. The fact that it has only happened once could almost be a confirmation. The stream of charged particles looks dense in the sky, but each particle is miniscule. The odds of one hitting the right part of the controller are tiny, but not inconsequential. It also sounds better than "a glitch"...

[@mantvydas8810]

Trucks in the EU run the same diesel heaters and my pops had stories of them not firing up in -30 temperatures what they'd do is mix in a bit of gasoline. But it was only -15 for him so dunno.

[@shawnelkins314]

Very informative. Thanks for spending the time to show the tear down and reassembly. Good old fashion smarts here! Thanks!

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Thank you. I’ve always been one for wanting to know one something is broken and then to fix it over just replacing it

[@davidpatrick1813]

Really a cool video. I have been thinking of a unit ... for a stationary radio station . .. and this is encouraging me. I know this is running by the time the video comes out but those types of gaskets I make with a small ball ping hammer.. I sure you know how to do that. Sometimes you can take old gaskets and soak the first boiled water (not kept boiling) and let them soak up for a day or two and then let dry .. . they will recompress to the fit.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I was pretty surprised with how brittle the green gasket had become, but I have seen that happen before. They grey ones seems a different material

[@davidpatrick1813]

@@MispronouncedAdventures Is it possible that I can find the same or updated same unit you used? Maybe a model number etc. ... ? pat

[@reloadnorth7722]

I've had mine for 4 years now. No issues ever.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Mine is about three years now with almost 4000 hours. Only £6 in bearings isn’t bad

[@TalosIO]

Great videos. I'm just getting into these heaters and your vids are helpful. Tip: I'm a Biker so you can make your own gaskets from cheap gasket paper if you need to and gas seal with High temp RTV.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Glad it was helpful. one or two people have also mentioned the cardboard gasket. Definitely something I would like to have a go at just to learn a new skill and option in a predicament

[@TalosIO]

@@MispronouncedAdventures I've just had a thought. I've used Redex fuel cleaner in my Motorcycles for over 40 years as it keeps the carbs/fuel injectors and fuel line clean. It also prevents carbon build up in cylinders. I'm wondering if it would extend the service point of these heaters e.g a little shot now and then :)

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I have no idea to be honest, but I do use premium diesel which does have cleaning additives in so could be related two why I have a clean burn chamber

[@paol505]

there would be the copper/very thin can(diy) gasket option . Very durable !!

[@jakobporterz3211]

You can use high temp RTV seal maker. Comes in a tube and it’s red. We use it all the time at 500 F in America.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Thank you, this wasn’t stuff I was aware of quite a few commenters have mentioned it

[@Mr.Unacceptable]

A jacketed exhaust pipe could give you a hot water tank. Plumb it in a wall and out the roof so it doesn't take up any more space and is insulated. Would also radiate heat making the system more efficient.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I already have hot water from the diesel heater from the hot side. Heat recovery from the exhaust side is not really practical in vans.

[@fredc8618]

​@MispronouncedAdventures can you explain what you mean?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Heating water via exhaust heat / on the exhaust pipes isn’t practical in a van. You need to make holes to get water pipes out of the van into the heat exchanger on the exhaust pipe, and then back in again. In winter, if the heater was ever turned off, it would be susceptible to freezing the water which is still in the pipes and damaging it. I use a bobil vans hot water system, which is a heat exchanger based inside the van on the hot air ducting

[@simoncowbell.6783]

That sounds like a recipe for fire or carbon monoxide poisoning. Exhaust pipes should always be installed outside. Also, the exhaust pipe will eventually clog up if it isn't allowed to heat up properly.

[@Nader-o7w]

I have Chinese diesel heater I am using it for 6 years I Ben -35 Fahrenheit in north states and still working perfect I only change the Exos heater pipe and that all I only started one time every month in the summer for 10 minut.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

They are great unit when you get a good one. 3 years with this one and two Arctic winters

[@brtaylor9503]

Just checked back on Artic adventure. I use evans waterless coolant and it never freezes until below -40 .Might be worth considering. Glad your heater was a easy fix

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Cheers I will look into that. I was going to looking into a waterless ones I’ve heard of or a 60/40 mix glyco/water mix . As I’m finding for -40c this winter

[@watchhunteeteego4564]

@@MispronouncedAdventures Don't know what you're currently running, but mixing the the coolant heavier, favoring the the coolant, may get the freeze point down far enough. Possibly 75/25 or somewhere in that ballpark. Also, at least here stateside, that muffler would considered a glasspack muffler. Cherry Bomb is the most recognizable brand name. Made me chuckle seeing one for a heater.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I’ll probably running a 60/40 mix which is around -53c I’ve got s few Finnish friends who can advise me on what they use

[@wrxs1781]

The letters after the bearing number indicate the seal type, ZZ metal both sides, also the motor brushes being replaced would be a good idea. For the new price of these heaters my impression was above expectation, and daily use in my arctic climate.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

When you get a good copy and it’s well installed they are great. I’ve just finished 2 months on the Arctic for my second winter with this heater on after this video

[@tullgutten]

What I've seen from other is that the main issue is the screen for the glow plug clogging. You can pick it out and just burn it clean

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Yes. The atomiser / mesh can be an issue but overall mine was clean so I left it

[@howardosborne8647]

I have cleaned them a couple of times by heating them to cherry red with the blow lamp and they are restored back to full function.

[@damhammergoshdammer1464]

I've been running them for a few years. They are great

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I agree

[@fleabag72]

Wow 😮 how clean was that!!!

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Yeah I was expecting a mess which is why I had the gloves on!

[@14KiloWhisky]

@@MispronouncedAdventures air fuel ratio seems very well tuned 👍

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I’ve never tuned it but its worked out well.

[@georgestweeter]

Chinese Espar. Im a diesel mechanic, Espars generally get serviced every 1-3 years as the gaskets in them get hard and brittle and break, causing them not to work.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Indeed they are. Overall design is using the expired Espar Airtronic D4 patent. I’ve seen the gasket material varies between different Chinese manufactures.

[@janikilpinen2696]

You forget put that rubber cover to that bearing, thats why it went in so easy ;)

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

The bearing cover was on the bearing on the body. The bearing which went in easy the cap end of the motors near the brushes

[@pau1phi11ips]

So someone (me) decided to play with my heater settings and found a pretty low setting where the heater was barely audible. "This will be good while I'm working on the van." The amount of carbon when I dismantled it after it stopped working was insane! Don't mess with the default settings guys 😏 I needed to buy a new burn chamber to fix it. Which was about £25.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I do understand lot of people play with settings. not done it myself as it’s always worked so far for me as stocks. But definitely not all heaters are the same

[@mrd7996]

Great video. Glad I watched it so when I need to service my vevor heater I'll be able to go back in my watch history to access it. I'll definitely be careful when separating the body to not damage the gaskets.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Glad you found it helpful. If you do need to do a full service of the heater after a year or so, it might just be worth ordering a new set of gaskets before hand as well.

[@ASDASD34RDFS]

People saying to keep a spare bottle of RTV are right, it CAN be handy. But RTV often fails more times than it actually works. The true trick, which I myself have listened to, is to buy various gasket sheets in various sizes and materials. I got maybe 10 cork/rubber gasket sheets for 5 dollars, good enough for a life time. They last forever if kept somewhere damp and not in direct sun light, and you will NEVER have to buy a new gasket ever again. Buy them in various thicknesses and compounds, store em and use em when needed. I then use the RTV ontop of these gaskets just to make it seal even more.

[@wideawaketotruth5301]

Extremely well done video! Thanks from Texas USA!

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Thank you, I’m glad you enjoyed it. Cheers

[@wideawaketotruth5301]

@@MispronouncedAdventures Cheers

[@112boatman]

The gaskets contains asbestos and so do the little pads in the case

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Make sense, great heat retardant material. Just don’t breath it dust form

[@PussyStrike]

asbestos has not been used in gaskets for 30 years, it's a simple graphite gasket

[@adamjc86]

Really interesting video, great stuff. I must say however, that putting a heater next to a fridge seems like an oversight, usually you'd want your fridge away from any heat sources.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

It’s not really near. It’s a completely different air mass from the fridge. So heat radiating off the heater and it’s venting in that cupboard doesn’t affect or come in contact with the compressor or the fridge itself. But I do see why people think that when they see the layout in the video

[@specialservicesequipment393]

You could also pack the new bearing with DISC BRAKE GREASE it's synthetic, works from -50 to +400 F and has graphite, poly, and teflon in it. As for the seal, copper coat gasket sealer RTV has a tempt rating of 420 deg F.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Would that be to increase the lifespan of the bearing?

[@specialservicesequipment393]

@@MispronouncedAdventures I believe it would, I've been regreasing any bearings that used regular grease with disk brake grease (except the wheel bearings in cars and trucks due to the weight) with the stuff and the general response is that the vehicle steers better and sounds better (u-joints, steering knuckles, pivots, etc.)

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I wonder if you can grease these tiny ones as the metal shielding I think makes it a sealed unit

[@specialservicesequipment393]

@@MispronouncedAdventures On small bearing like that, I've had success using a syringe with a needle that I cut off flush with an abrasive disc on a dremel. but is the metal shields are too tight it may not work.

[@asdasd-jl3ls]

Not DISC BRAKE GREASE but DISC BRAKE WHEEL BEARING GREASE.

[@13TIQA13]

i have had this heater running for half a year nonstop, 4 years in a row. i have changed motor few times, because after each season contacts have been worn away almost entirely. as for me it doesnt make sense to change bearings, the short tyerm solution is to fill oil in the bearings, that helps them to finish the season before i swap in new motor.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

The bearing were knackered on mine as 2000 hours. But the communicators had loads of life left in them. I’d personally rather swap £6 in new high end bearings. it’s now 4000 run hours and fine. When I replace the motor I’ll probably put decent bearings in it

[@13TIQA13]

@@MispronouncedAdventures i guess the difference is that mine 5kw is running in upper half of range most of the time. So i guess more wear in a given time.

[@GFXGaming]

As a side note for the gasket you could use a liquid high temp gasket which just comes in a tube. They work great in situations you might not beable to get a gasket.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Quite a few people have mentioned this option if you ever in a bind

[@khg8519]

you dont need high temp anything 99 percent of that is marketing BS most goos in a tube are exactly the same

[@johnwyman6126]

In order to reuse gaskets on our racecars, we used to apply antisieze to both sides of the gasket. Silicone spray would probably also work in this application.

[@tapsulinka]

Once I bought one big sheet of gasket, about size 1000*1500 mm. I just cut from there the needed size. The whole sheet was cheap.

[@janm2510]

when you have a run bearing its wears away the housing for it. the bearing spins on the outer edge. locktite 660 is used to "glue " the gearing into the housing. Taken me years to work that out on my ride on mower. Cool video!

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Thank you for the advice, a few have mentioned Loctite

[@howardosborne8647]

@@MispronouncedAdventures The loctite bearing fit is a must have in any maintenance tool kit. Tremendously useful stuff

[@howardosborne8647]

Many of the 1970s Japanese 2 stroke trail bike engines suffered with bearing creep on the crank mains. Loctite bearing fit was the solution. Yamaha resolved the problem by fitting a small pegging dowel to the outside of the bearings.

[@BensWorkshop]

Interesting. I am going to fit one to my workshop to keep it warm... Though I will probably see if I can get it to run on kerosene and switch to waste oil as that is free.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

They run on Kero no problem, it’s a lot cleaner. I’ve heat of people using waste oil but I haven’t researched into that personally in case any settings need to be tweaked

[@BensWorkshop]

@@MispronouncedAdventures Many thanks. I didn't see a link to the after burner controller, is that on your general Amazon page?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

The Afterburner is a project over a product. If you find the Facebook group for it, you can learn how to get one from there

[@BensWorkshop]

@@MispronouncedAdventures Many thanks. Have you got a search term to find the group or would "afterburner heater control" do?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

That should work. I think the group name is something like “ advanced afterburner controller for Chinese diesel heaters“

[@thelonemoomin]

Who cares about thermal efficiency. Lets put something that is designed to get very hot right below something trying to stay cool 🤣. Thanks for taking the time to show the process of striping down the heater. Really informative and reassuring video for users of the cheaper heaters out there👍.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I care about thermal efficiency which why it’s an isolated air mass from the fridge and the fridges compressor. additionally, the heater bodies / shells themselves don’t get hot, it’s the vents which do. So the heater doesn’t heat the fridge up

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Plus the R-value of 18mm ply ( the plinth, the fridge sits on ) is 0.94, 25mm PIR insulation board is only 1.1 so it’s pretty insulated materials around it well

[@constructioneerful]

Oooh - way better mpg from premium diesel ? Can you / have you illustrated this - and maybe the sums on any savings?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I saw about a 7% increase on cost vs a 15-20% increase in MPG. but that’s just me and my van

[@snowcold903]

I would also make sure the exhaust points points away from the vehicles frame so that it does not rust the frame

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I’m hard to see in the video but it does point out away from the van

[@chriisuu]

Do you run the heater with default settings or did you customize the pump frequency and fan speed? Would be interesting to see which settings worked for you.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I left mine stock, I’ve personally never tuned the heater as I’ve always been it’s had worked well for me

[@rosscooper8553]

great video very helpful my bearings also making a noise time to replace .Been running now for 2yrs and apart from fan bearings being noise havent missed a beat.I live lower sth island NZ where it does get very cold but i love my heater

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Glad it was helpful

[@thepickn]

Maintenance is good.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Indeed it is

[@crazycoyote1738]

Zz may be zig zag?😊 Thanks for your thorough video!!

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

No worries, hope it was helpful

[@wanderingzythophile9083]

That new muffler, the Amazon page says "currently unavailable" and in those cases, no price is displayed - how much was that unit?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

That’s a pain ill redo the links £25 in Amazon with prime next day or £16 in eBay for a week or so

[@wanderingzythophile9083]

Wow. That's cheap!

[@MrRatkilr]

When you put on a new gasket. Give it a thin coating of Vaseline or chapstick. Makes it easy to take apart without tearing gasket.can reuse them.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Makes sense to me. when I’m often dissembling these heaters for review. I find the gaskets can be pretty well stuck onto the casting

[@noelleonard2498]

A drop of medium strength loctite on those splines would have been a good idea.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

As in on the fan onto the shaft?

[@jamstar116]

Hi mate nice video, where did you get the afterburner programer from?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

There is a website or the Facebook group for it

[@bjsunbeam1668]

I run afterburner on my diesel heater and its so much more adjustable and lots of realtime status info aand makes these heaters much easier to tune to your reuirements It also allows better temp control with the optional remote temp sensor and you can use it from phone app or web page on your internet connecction Having said that the standard controller work ok too just less tunable

[@xactedsyence]

Should have gotten a sheet of gasket material at your local automotive store and traced your good gasket so you can make a few gaskets. I've done it with carburetors and small engine gaskets and it works fine

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Not something I can acquire quick around here don’t have the shops for that . But I felt an unused gasket from an other unit was good option

[@thinkfirst6431]

A different point point of view would be to just replace the heater with a new one. I can appreciate the effort that you went through to replace the bearings and the exhaust parts. I just paid $128 USD delivered for a VEVOR 8KW self contained unit. 2000 hours would be 0.064 USD per hour machine time not counting fuel. The one like yours, 5KW, and without the housing, are cheaper. If you spent a couple of hours actually replacing the bearings and finding the gasket you have $40-60 into the actual repair, I am assuming that the bearings were about $10 each, plus whatever it cost you to get the new exhaust pipe and muffler. The time for repair you could say was free, on the other hand you could have been doing something else maybe more profitable and avoided the risk of breaking something more costly. You still haven't replaced the fuel pump and your motor armature is worn along with the brushes. The labor to remove and replace (r&r) the unit would be the same new or replacing your old unit. If you factor in the possibility that the motor will fail in less than 2000 more hours with additional r&r time and parts, replacing with a new one might be more cost effective and trouble free(er).

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Swapping the whole unit is definitely a option but I’ve found not all all Chinese Heater are equal. Some will run for year no issues, other maybe only a few hours before sooting up. I’d personally be happier with replacing and repairing than swapping in a whole new unit

[@thinkfirst6431]

@@MispronouncedAdventures Isn't that the problem nowadays. Products used to be made so that they could be dissembled, repaired with parts you could actually purchase, then reassembled without worrying if you were going to break it just taking it apart. Armatures were thicker so that they could be turned and re grooved to go again for the same period as the first time. Brushes were longer, bearings were good ball bearings that could be greased if there was room. Now repairing something is rebooting your computer to see if it works again. Not all progress is progress.

[@thinkfirst6431]

@@MispronouncedAdventures I purchased my diesel heater based on reviews which means that it was reviewed but will not actually do the same as the review unless I get lucky.

[@cheetor5923]

@@MispronouncedAdventures It's also worth considering that those bearings will most likley last many many times longer than the pre-installed ones. In the factory I work it it isn't uncommon for NHK bearings to last the life of the motor. Usually if it's brushed, the commutator will wear through before you get a bad bearing. I was quite surprised to note it wasn't a brushless motor though.. But considering the low wear I'd imagine with the Japanese bearings, next service you will have to do is replace the brushes in maybe another 10,000 hours.

[@dimitrizeniou2219]

We use vinegar to clean combustion chamber in domestic boilers

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

For soot which hard to remove? Most of this dust came off with toothbrush. But I could definitely see you on a far dirty air heater extra things require.

[@kennethphillips6362]

Your van setup is amazing...

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Thank you very much, it’s a bit of a different design than the usual fixed bed with garage underneath layout. Works for me probably wouldn’t work for some other people.

[@BjornV78]

8:55 You can reuse that seal and put some "Copper silicone" from Loctite or Versachem on it. i use that type of silicone on exhausts manifolds for years.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I think in the future, if it is only broken into 2 part, I would consider, since is this case disintegrated into maybe. I thought it best just to replace

[@mitchellcamps7595]

Thanks for this video!

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

No problem

[@flybobbie1449]

I placed the old tin plate on the burner air inlet, made better silencer than the plastic thing.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I’ve not thought my inlet was loud but I have heard other making changes

[@jdreynolds29]

ZZ on bearings means that it is sealed with the metal cap on both sides. Z means it is sealed with metal cap on one side

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Thank you

[@PK_Blinder]

You just knew the new exhaust was coming apart once we saw the 2 screws.... 😏

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

It definitely was?

[@goldengoat4938]

smart that you keep a spare heater!

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Especially for my Arctic trips, but regardless of brand, be at high quality western or Chinese on the Arctic trips, I would recommend the spare heater. One of my friends webasto pumppumps broke is Winter. The western brands might have a great warranty system, but that’s not particularly helpful to keep you warm. If it’s broken in the Arctic you have to wait a week

[@inglbrute]

Some newer refrigerators use butane for refrigerant. Might not be an optimal setup if it does. Just and FYI. The heater looks pretty good tho. I've been thinking about getting one. That's why you're video popped up. I've been leary of them, but most user videos actually show fairly good things.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

The fridge in my van is compressor 12V which runs off the battery system which is really quite efficient. I always feel with the Chinese heaters. There are so many issues down to the massive variety of Chinese companies which produce them as they are not all equal and incorrect user installation is also a common problem.

[@inglbrute]

@@MispronouncedAdventures in regards to you fridge, yes, it is a standard compressor unit, but the refrigerant inside of it is likely butane or propane. I only mention it because of the possible issues if it develops a leak. Very flammable. I know what you mean about chinese products from innumerable companies and finding part/support for them. It's the same with everything from there, including HVAC, which I deal with here. Customers call about a chinese off brand ductless AC that they bought off the internet that is having issues. Good luck finding parts on that thing, lol.

[@Jan_Seidel]

*yeah* Jägermeister. Blowing headaches and fun for the win 🙃

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

You are the first comment to actually mention it!!

[@wouterke9871]

So you have two heaters, one that you have installed, and another one dissasembled on the worktop? Its always good to have spares at hand anyways, but curious why you have two units?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I have more than two units. I’ve got the original one I installed in the van with the 2000 hours run hours which I disassembled, cleaned, fixed bearing and reinstalled. The second unit you saw was my spare I original borrow from work ( which I got to keep ) which is a whole spare unit or parts for when I was in the arctic winter last winter . I also have another I got to review.

[@aeroflopper]

you did well 2000 hours on the glow plug,

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Same glow plug now in the unit with about 3700 run hours for the heater. Total Run time for the glow plug is 52 hours looking at system details

[@sosdesos]

I’ve seen videos of people running these in used transmission oil that had some moisture in it as well. That one was crusty as hell, but they ran it on junk like that for a whole year I think.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

They are pretty resilient for burning different oils. Yes some will clog up fast another others. Definitely interesting to hear what people have used with them

[@Whadaa72]

Believe it or not electrical conduit pipe fits the exhaust system. Way cheaper and massively stronger

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I didn’t think that. I take it they are the 24mm area?

[@pa_maj.MARTINI-van-MAN]

I've an eberspacher, it was already in my van but had been serviced almost two years prior. It's an older model and has no fancy controller, just on off, fan only, fan with heat and an up down dial. I've had my van for five years so that's almost seven in total. It's never let me down. I don't live in my van but use it often and the heater has had lots of use but hey! Unfortunately I don't have details on runtime. I add redex for diesel every time I fill up and use Maxol diesel as I was told it's the cleanest about in the UK although a bit more expensive, the guy that told me replaces fuel filters in fleet lorry's and since shifting to Maxol, less fuel issues. I think Good fuel is key for these heaters (plus most diesel engines) Anyway, I often wonder would a Chinese diesel heater have worked for me just as well...certainly not the underneath van part's that's for sure...they're the cheap parts to replace though.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Yeah I’ve only ever run premium diesel in my van, and as the heater uses fuel out of my main van tank it’s only ever run on premium diesel and always been clean insides.

[@pa_maj.MARTINI-van-MAN]

@@MispronouncedAdventures Mine is fed from the main tank too. The only thing I don't like about these heaters is their amp drain on the batteries in winter. I'd really like something like this... Dieselofen "Sibirien",1.8kW, 70mm-System

[@ovalwingnut]

W.O.N.D.E.R.F.U.L description. Thank you... GR8T post-editing to boot! Cheers from So.CA.USA 3rd House on the Right.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

No problem!

[@richrdlewis6278]

If you just split a gasket like you did, don't panic as all you needed was the slightest smear of sealant on the two splits on rebuild.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I didn’t realise that was an option. Thank you

[@sapiens814]

Thanks for the info. Great effort.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

No problem

[@xxbambamxx7261]

I just ordered the entire part new when I needed new bearings, it was like 20 bucks brand new... And when I have it opened, I clean everything, or else you will be opening it once again soon.. Like the atomizer screen, that will clogg soon if you don't change it...

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

It may or may not, 2000 hours, runtime of the atomiser was generally quite clean. I would rather replace the bearings of high-quality ones than just put in a new section with low quality bearings.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

But that is the advantage of the units. You can just put a whole new one in if you want at this price point.

[@grabir01]

Should not be a problem tapping out another gasket for the one you broke. Get some gasket paper, lay it across the area that needs a new gasket , and with a very small hammer, tap it out. Lightly tapping on the inside and outside edges which will cut the gasket. Take your time and tap one out!!

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Yeah, a a lot people have mentioned making your own gasket. But in this case I didn’t have any gasket paper and a whole new gasket for a nearby heater was easier to get.

[@Anthroplast]

14:21 zz means it has a metal shield on both sides (single z has only a shield on one side). You could also opt for a 2RS (double rubber seal) if the bearing fails again which will keep dirt out better than the metal shield (at the drawback of some friction, but that should be fine)

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Thank you. So rubber seals are a better seal?

[@Anthroplast]

@@MispronouncedAdventures a rubber seal bearing is better to keep dirt out compared to a metal shield. The drawback is friction between the seal and the rotating shaft, which will cause drag and heat. In extreme cases this could melt the seal rendering it useless so typically the rotation speed is limited for rubber seal type bearings. I did a quick calculation and staying below 25.000rpm should be fine in this case with rubber seal bearing (I'm sure your fan will be a lot slower). So next time your ZZ bearing fails you can try a 2RS for a change. (if this ZZ will ever fail, since now you have a high quality Japanese bearing in there it might outlast other components)

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Thank you. It’s been interesting to learn a lot more about bearing and shields & seals and their use cases

[@Charlie_Crown]

​@@MispronouncedAdventures I noticed in the video, whilst you were putting the new bearing into its casing, you remarked it was a bit loose in there. When you removed the old bearing it had a rubber cover around it, which you removed and said 'I must remember that', well I think that was there to minimize the amount of debris getting into the bearing, but you appear to have forgotten to put that back around the new bearing. Though it probably doesn't matter, it didn't appear to help anyway, as that bearing still failed, due to its lack of quality more than anything. Great video, I enjoyed it 👍

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

@Charlie_Crown i’ve always wondered with the bearing covers. Because there was only one of those bearing silicon mounts when I took it off, and I’m pretty sure it was on the other bearing, although potentially there was meant to be 2 to begin with and one was missing

[@TheAllSeeingAye]

Those exhaust hose from Webasto and Espar with cannot be sealed tightly with stock clamps nor the one you have. Exhaust will push out at that point. The Chinese exhaust hose are better for sealing as they are tapered smooth at the ends and are a pretty tight fit. I have the expensive Espar and replaced the hose with chinese one for this reason.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Interesting view, know what you mean by the sealing, although I did replaced it with heavy duty actual exhaust clamps. in my case the exhaust was leaking everywhere when the rust got its way through

[@TheAllSeeingAye]

@@MispronouncedAdventures I bought the same clamps you have, it's not strong enough to squish the air spirals sealed, ended up stripping the bolts.. Mgfr even mentioned using some type of cement to seal them. This is where I feel they've cut corners, just cutting off a huge roll instead of making tapered ones like the chinese ones. I've been dealing with a chamber leak since installing this expensive heater, sent it to mfgr said it was fine, did all their recommendations for install fixes and now it's happening again after a month, now i'm pretty sure it's the heater, just ordered a chinese one just to prove it to myself to them and shove it in their faces. Lungs were so inflamed the first time, this time it's inflamed again but I'm cutting it short this time. Enough is enough. IT's been a nightmare thinking I was going expensive for quality and safety. I'm ok with replacing the chinese exhaust when it starts to rust.

[@DirectorCM]

Ironically, even though this is marketed as a DIESEL heater, I suggest using Kerosene instead because Diesel is just no good. Kerosene burns hotter, cleaner, and it is significantly cheaper than even Red Diesel. My heater internals are clean as a whistle and I've had it for about 3yrs now. Diesel produces a lot of soot because it has a high sulphur content. Kerosene has been used as a source of heating since the 1500s for good reason.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I wouldn’t necessarily say diesel produces lots of soot. definitely can do on heaters which are poorly set up or tuned. As mine are now on 4000 run hours and clean. Depends location as well. If I were setting up a domestic property / stationary use , then a large kerosene tank would definitely make sense. but for me the convenience of having it plumbed directly into the vehicles main fuel tank is optimal for me

[@antonkoenr]

Awesome video! You’ve got yourself a subscriber:D

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Thank you very much. More techie in-depth videos on the channel too

[@Animo92]

Gasket sets are pennies considering they prevent combustion gasses from being free to assist your sleeping I cant fathom the mental process people go through sometimes

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Indeed new gaskets sets are pennies. Not quite sure who the “mental process people” part to meant for? People who want to make their own gaskets and not use premade sets?

[@jeanpierreaitken5312]

hi good video and i love to ear a british man swair lol

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I aim to please

[@korsu1234]

Nice vids,😊no point to TaKe to service,just buy new,jus bought 4 my self,5kw 145€😊

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I prefer it repair for £6 but each to there own, the units are cheap so you can replace as well

[@paulmaydaynight9925]

while you had the gasket out you should have made the pencil copy as a reference

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Could of been a option. But at the time I wasn’t planning on making my own.

[@henrikstenlund5385]

Since they are relatively low-cost, it might be wise to buy two units at the same time. The other one would be a spare to throw in at times of trouble.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

On my Arctic trips, I carry an entire spare unit as I just in case I haven’t yet personally need it but others on my Arctic trips have

[@andyhamilton2470]

When you dismantled the motor you found an anti vibration sleeve on the front bearing but did not show the rear bearing clearly and I noticed that when you refitted the comutator bearing housing you found it a loose fit. Bearings are never a loose fit , either the sleeve has disintegrated or fell off un-noticed. This was the bad bearing, you may find that the bearing at the front fails after a short time because the play in the shaft caused by loose rear bearing is too much. Also, play in comutator bearing acts on brushes and may cause failure or premature wear.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Yes I did notice there wasn’t a vibration sleeve on the other bearing only one. I did find that quite strange. I wonder if it was missing from factory as you are quite rightly pointed out I did observe that the bearing went in too easily.

[@olegmeller8777]

Thank you for sharing. You mentioned the heater control and web interface for gathering data. Can you share who built that? I thought I heard an Australian guy called Ray :)

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Hey. Yeah it’s a project called a “afterburner”, Facebook group or google “Chinese diesel heater afterburner controller” should put you onto the right information

[@petesims]

Where did you get your afterburner from?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

It’s a Facebook group where you can find out about the project

[@davehimlin2374]

It may be wise, to take this aprt when its brand new, and apply lubricant to both bearings on the 12volt motor. China factories are notorious for not lubricating bearings and if you do this lubrication on the unit before using it, you may get 1000s more hours out of the dc motor, before the bearings go bad. The brushes in these dc motors will last much longer than the bearings.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Or just replace the bearings with high-quality ones when it’s brand-new. Although would you necessarily want to lubrication on the bearings near the DC motor seems potential for Brush dust to build up and stick to the lubrication?

[@davehimlin2374]

@@MispronouncedAdventures I think it has been common practice in all DC brushed motors, to ensure lubrication is applied to both bearings to increase longevity, reduce noise. reduce friction?

[@flyerh]

Just tripped over your video.I am assuming you need a mains hook up or generator the supply the DC current required for this heater? That being the case,you would need to factor in that amount of power into working out the efficiency of the heater.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

No hook up or generator needed. It’s runs off DC power from the leisure batteries and fuel from the vans main tank. Battery recharged via solar or the engine as a by production driving

[@Michael.OJackson]

Tip to extend the exhaust pipe is to set it in position then remove and spray it with stove paint, it will give you an extra year

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Interesting idea. Make sense stove paint would be fine for this application

[@user-or1lu3ku3m]

The rotor having those gouges in it is normal, they do that to balance it instead of adding material

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Indeed I’ve said this before in my other video. Some do it neatly, others less so but it’s just fan balancing

[@jodymorgan9869]

Try putting anti-seize on the gaskets to keep them from sticking.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Definitely an option in the future. However I’ve these green ones do seem to stick the silvery type one I replaced it with don’t have a history of sticking

[@unclejohn37]

I would leave the air intake inside . That would gain efficiency because you are warming already warmed air rather than the winter air temp outside. Trying to heat that cold air in a second as it passes through the little heater. Makes a huge difference.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I can’t have the combustion air intake on this inside it’s really quite a unsafe into them that way. Any faults with the heater which causes it stop turn releases exhaust gases out of the intake side. As for the hot air intake as internal anyway flowing over the heat exchanger

[@otofoto]

Intake goes to exhaust so the air inside will be sucked out and surprise get replaced with cold air from outside causing discomfort.