Chinese Diesel Heater Upgrade - Best Improvement Yet..! - Full Installation And Testing.

Do you want to know How To Install A CHINESE DIESEL AIR HEATER? A step by step guide to fitting and upgrading a Chinese Diesel Heater into my off grid motorhome and it's made a real difference in the convenience and comfort level.
I bought the diesel heater kit from Amazon here:
amzn.to/3mfFbk8
25L Fuel tank from BottomLine Marine:
www.bottomlinemarine.com/prod...
Larger mounting spigot from i-sells: *the one I used:
www.i-sells.co.uk/125mm-spigo...
ALTERNATIVE SPIGOT; Known as a mounting turret.
amzn.to/3Q3K0M1
Additional air ducting & exhaust extension from Amazon:
amzn.to/3rRZfdo
amzn.to/3wvcpQP
In this video I show a how I have upgraded my heating system to make things easier and safer.
Although this diesel heater was fitted in my motorhome, it can be on a van or camper just as easily and will work efficiently in these too.
The diesel air heater kit contained all the parts for successfully fitting the diesel fuel tank, the heater unit, diesel exhaust and air pipe work, as well as all the wiring and fittings.
This step by step guide to fitting a Chinese diesel heater took me about one month to install, working the odd evening and weekends - I just took my time.
But, depending on your vehicle, it could be fitted and working in a few days of constant work.
I have been using this cheap Ebay diesel heater for quite a while over winter and it works very well, but thanks to help and advice from KZbin subscribers I have upgraded to a much more convenient and safer system.
The fuel tank upgrade will now give me much more off grid time without needing to refuel.
I also use the cheaper red diesel so I cant tap into the main fuel tank....
I hope you find this video useful.
Chapters:
00:00 - intro
01:11 - preparing custom cupboard for diesel heater and fuel tank
01:37 - explaining the new diesel heater marine tank
02:37 - why I chose not to use the vehicle diesel tank
03:41 - making the separate diesel tank and heater compartments
04:21 - positioning the diesel heater and pipework
04:40 - fitting the diesel heater into the custom compartment
07:24 - assembling the diesel heater air in, exhaust and fuel pipework
10:07 - main diesel fuel tank filter and piping
11:19 - fitting the heater ducting
11:35 - testing out the diesel heater
All the best,
Steve
#ChineseDieselHeater #HowToInstallDieselHeater #FittingDieselHeater

[@gasgas2689]

Excellent commentary, well done. Well spoken, no waffle, clever DIY engineering, very logical. Enjoyable viewing.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Thank you very much for you comment.

[@jlucasound]

I agree with your choice to stay out of the engine fuel supply. I also agree that the outboard engine fuel tank with quick release is an awesome upgrade.

[@allanb52]

I am an engineer and can see you are a really bright guy with a job done properly.

[@davewallace718]

Best idea I've seen in a long time. Remove the tank via a quick release valve and fill it up outside the vehicle. Brilliant ... Most people that have an indoor tank fill the unit as a stationary unit risking a spill inside.

[@nicholaspargeter6913]

One of the best videos I’ve seen on the subject so far. Pleasure to watch.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Thank you so much for your kind comments Nicholas 👍

[@MickeyMishra]

I think Everyone on TV should be British. Its just gives you this kind of Giddy feeling listening to them. And Super great clean install!

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Thank you Mickey...

[@getoutside5231]

One of the most practical RV installations of a diesel heater i have seen. My favorite is the quick connect for the fuel to tank line and the use of a marine fuel tank.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Thank you and thanks for watching. Yes, that quick connection works really well. Sometimes, after I’ve taken the tank for a refill, it takes two tries to get the little bit of air out of the line. But that’s not problem at all…👍🏼

[@keepinganopenmind8216]

I love it when I see others care for their stuff and do the job the right way.. KUDOS Mate !

[@michelthibodeau8550]

The marine tank is a brilliant idea !

[@glennbeadshaw727]

After much thinking about how to reinstall Chinese diesel heater for the long-term I also came up with the notion that a marine fuel tank would be the best option

[@Ma-fh9on]

Sure úd be mad to tap into ur main fuel tank crazy burning the dear stuff when u can fill the marine tank with agri diesel

[@DaveGreeneramblingcarpenter]

Brilliant original video and thanks for doing this upgrade,, which I will probably do from the start,, really appreciate someone who is able to clearly explain what they are doing, a great skill indeed, many thanks

[@rdwilander]

Very nice. Clean install highly functional and your video presentation and camerawork/editing was spot on.....thanks for posting

[@MonteCristo776]

Hi Steve! Love the solution with the separate Diesel tank! I had a Webasto Solution in my previous ride and loved it. 🙂 But what I found is that the exhaust gases where very hot too... I was thinking about a solution in using them as an additional heat source instead of letting them get to waste... Sadly there was far not enough space to have a small heat exchanger to also tap into this "waste product". As I now saw your video I was immediately reminded of this! Maybe you can use an air to water heat exchanger to create warm water for your shower or to feed a small boiler as a warm water storeage with it or just use it as an additional heat source for your MoHo. 😄 Don't know if this would be something you'd like to think about, but for "off-gridding" you should be able to get every bit of energy used. 😉😁😆 I wish you a happy new year and a lot of fun roadtripping!! Greetings from Austria!👋

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi Andreas There is a company called ‘Bobble’ who use the heater air outlet to heat water via a recirculating system which looks very good, but I don’t know of anyone who does similar with the exhaust. ATB, Steve

[@charleswoodley903]

Hody, you are aware that your marine tank has a reserve bilt in? The rased hump isolates the fuel, so when the level drops, it becomes two compartments. The one your pickup is in is half the size of the big one. Pull the tank and tip it to alow the transfer of fuel to the smaller side. If you already know this, sorry for taking up your time.

[@kayakexcursions5570]

Good info!

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi Charles No I wasn’t..! Van is away having a new gel coat (future video) but I will look at that. Very handy to know, thank you. ATB, Steve

[@TicketyBoo.]

Just about to install one of these heaters and your idea of using the marine tank came as a bit of a godsend, I actually have one of those tanks that's sat unused for a few years. Many thanks for the great idea and a brilliant video :-)

[@Snailmailtrucker]

Very nicely done ! I have a 15 gallon plastic barrel as my fuel tank for my diesel air heater in my old 82 Chevy Box Van RV conversion...one of the best products that I have ever bought !

[@e-bikerbulgaria]

Definitely worth the time that fuel container 👍👍👍👍👍

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi, Yes, it works just right for me 👍🏼

[@brianstadtmiller9641]

Wrinkly Nomad, I'm not sure why your cabin air is "stale" as you repeatedly state (just crack a window if you need a bit of fresh air), but in HVAC systems, we cycle air through the heat exchanger only from within the interior heated space. (in homes this is via a "return register") This is primarily for efficiency, as a heater would have to run much longer if it is heating all cold air from outside. Same thing here. (in really cold weather I would expect yours to run nearly constantly; these coach heaters sip fuel when installed as designed) But more important, critical in fact, I would expect you to get diesel exhaust smells (or worse!) introduced into the coach with the combustion exhaust anywhere near your heater cabin-air intake, even a couple meters away you will get some contamination. Truly, you need the combustion side/heating side of the heater totally isolated outside/inside, not any mix. Good news is you simply need to attach a vent hose to the heater cabin air intake and route it back up and inside the coach (if the Chinese heater has instructions you should see that in the diagram there). Probably then you will realize the small tank was an adequate size too. Not trying to be critical, but you have made an error that could have serious consequences (besides using a ton of extra fuel/energy and shortening the lifespan of the heater). Good luck!

[@felixcat9318]

Nice, clear and concise narration and good videography. Subscribed

[@indiaoverland2846]

This is your first video I saw and I was compelled to subscribe . So lively and systematic demo . so much to learn from you . Thanks a lot . All the love and respect from India. 😍

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Thank you so much.

[@normandsavard4087]

Very good idea do use a marine gas tank

[@fluxington]

I've watched a few videos about these heaters and it seems to be that you need the fuel pump sitting with the outlet facing upwards slightly to avoid air in the fuel, and that the silencer on the exhaust should be the lowest point in the exhaust system, with the notch in the silencer (the drain hole) hanging down most to avoid moisture building up.

[@chetmyers7041]

Yes, I've read that any moisture that forms in the exhaust needs to drain downward and out of the silencer. No low spots in line before the silencer.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

That's quite correct. Fuel pump over 45degs due to pump cavitation and the risk of trapping air bubbles within the pump chamber. As for the silencer. They generally don't last long as this drain hole gets clogged up. But definitely have it pointing down, at least give it a chance...!! ATB, Steve

[@nomadchad8243]

great installation , I have one in my garage and one in my small travel trailer. I like the marine tank idea, its rated for fuel by real safety associations and is quite convenient

[@pa4tim]

Thanks, my boat has one and after watching some of your videos I now know how to operate it. They are pretty noisy (the airflow) but they for sure heat up the pilothouse and cabin with ease. It uses the main 300L tank.

[@johnobiro5202]

Really nice neat professional service job. Love the boat tank. Great job. 🔧👍

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Thanks John 👍

[@Shipfixer]

Great upgrade! Instant LIKE and SUBSCRIBE! Very carefully and well done. Thanks for sharing. That dinky little tank that comes with these furnaces are just too little. I live in my RV (caravan for some of you) nine months out of a year on the job at different locations. I really got tired of filling the diesel heater tank. So I built in a 30 gallon tank. And to top it off, I routed the heater directly into the existing propane furnace ductwork. It heats the whole RV and the floor is always warm too. I still have the LPG for backup, but it sucks. The diesel heater runs forever on the large tank and the heat it produces is not humid like propane. Greetings to you in the UK from Alaska.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi Thank you and welcome aboard.

[@clintos111]

Thank you for making another interesting video, it is a very neat project. Quick question: Why take cold air in from outside to heat up rather than recycling the already warm air from inside the cabin? It would make the system much more efficient. Note: I mean the fan intake air, not the combustion intake, that should come from outside to ensure maximum oxygen.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Good question: I want fresh air in the habitation area mainly. These heater are so efficient that the difference between recycled air and outside air temperature doesn't seem to matter unless it's in the single figures outside. If I use it in 0degs conditions then I would change to air inlet hose and make it recirculated. ATB, Steve

[@stevenliggins1623]

I'm saving your videos as I'm yet to fit my heater and your videos will be a great help. Thanks.

[@ericpoulin82]

I have a tank very similar to your tank. When I bought the tank the place where I bought it they said that I didn’t need thread tape on that hose fitting screwing into the unit. Needless to say because it didn’t completely seal I was getting air in my system, and fuel was leaking. So if there is no t-tape on that fitting and you smell fuel thats exactly where I’d be looking first. Your videos are in detail and fantastic to watch. Nothing beats being as through as you are good sir.

[@ultravoxa]

I twisted a ball of 5m 0.25mm nichrome wire and placed it in the combustion chamber to expand the heat zone. Fuel vapor burns better as it passes through the high temperature zone. The effect was staggering. The fuel supply had to be restricted as it started to fail due to overheating. An aquarium metal tap had to be installed to limit fuel supply by 50%. Then the output has a 143c airflow at 1.6Hz and with 5l running in 27h in my variant. The fuel burns so well that there is almost no smoke from the exhaust pipe, only weak steam. I suggest you give it a try.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Very interesting... Quite an involved experiment. Fuel consumption would be improved a lot as well I would think. I might give that a test on the bench and see what results I get. Thanks for the info, ATB, Steve

[@douglundy5755]

incredible and Im keeping this in mind for both the clean burning and fuel saving.

[@robertdavies7608]

Very nice tank, FYI I have seen. A good few guys using used motor oil with these heaters as they burn so clean they use 2 tanks (20l) oil then 10l kerosene as that apparently burns any carbon build up, one guy did a 1year side by side test 3 heaters 1desil 1 kerasine 1 used oil then broke all three down and there was v little difference between the desil and the oil in build up

[@gregsmith5695]

Is that test on YT somewhere? I'd like to check that out.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi Robert, Interesting.... I also use a diesel fuel additive which is great for keeping it clean and soot free....

[@angusrobinson7032]

very clean install, appreciate the time you took to film and explain it for us.

[@J1I9M7M4Y]

Excellent video. Editing, explaining.. Everything is just great about it. Im restoring an old caravan and im ripping out the propane heating system and installing a china diesel heater instead. The use of a boat tank is just brilliant. This means you can have two tanks and just switch when one is empty. I think that the diesel heater gives a much drier air than propane heaters, and living in an arctic climat (north of Sweden) i think that´s a good thing. When running propane in the winter it gets really humid in the caravan. Thank you very much for this video!! Best regards, Jimmy.

[@chetmyers7041]

1:25 Installation Guide suggest heat duct should go STRAIGHT for 10-15 inches out from heater. NO TURNS OR BENDS for 12 inches!!! (I'm a wanna-be van dweller who eat chips and watches KZbin.) 11:03 OUCH! FIRE HAZARD! Move that plastic fuel line away from hot exhaust tube. Keep electric wires away from heat too. 12:45 That 90 degree bend at outlet is not recommended in install guide. Your temp reads 45C on plastic body at hot air outlet flange. Guess that sounds okay.

[@matthiasschmidt3366]

Hello nice Job questions from where you get the fresh air for the heater you sucking from inside ???

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi Matthias Fresh air comes in from the outside. When it is very cold, 0 degrees outside, during winter, I block the vent to allow air to be drawn in from the van. I find it's slightly more efficient then.

[@billquailes7882]

Excellent video. The best I have seen for a motorhome install. I am in the US and am installing a heater in a Class A and am having some challenges, of course I will get it worked out. One of the challenges is that there are not as many parts available in the US.

[@IppiopaidFEEDBACK]

This was excellent, gives me confidence for putting one of these in my school bus

[@skit5782]

Thanks for the great videos. Do you not have to prime the marine tank? I have a bulb primer on my boat tank to get things started.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Thank you Alan, I have never had to prime the tank at all. Even when I first started up with no fuel in the line. The little pump is mighty powerful and sucked the fuel up form the tank straight away with now problem. ATB, Steve

[@bigduphusaj162]

Marine hosing is the best of the best and large inner diameter the pump CC size on any of these heaters isn't even remotely close to causing starvation issues from the suction of the pump, it's many times greater than what most people or the manufacturers themselves fit or specify to fit as a fuel supply. The yamaha fuel tanks In the UK are the best of the best as far as what you get for your cash fuel hose and fitment wise. You can build one up from a good Yamaha or simmilar tank part and lower grade hosing for maybe a 3rd cheaper and will still work fine for 5+yr. Its the cheapo plastic tanks they thread the lid after too many refills and the breather isn't watertight when shut as its not got the 2 O-ring set up blah blah.. buy the better ones is my advice and btw old British metal tanks work really good on these too with even cheapo fuel hose. They have the heavily metal screw on top of the cap as the breather so are really good if you need a metal can.

[@PreparednessVeteran]

That fuel tank option is great. Makes real good sense, particularly for refueling. Is there a visual option to see how much fuel is left in the tank? Nice one, see ya on the road.

[@roblastname9133]

Yes there was one on top of the tank

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi, yes there’s a fuel level gauge on the top with the filling connector. You can see it right here @ 2:00 mins. The tank is certainly a better option for me 👍🏼 All the best, Steve

[@jodypfunder6765]

@@TheWrinklyNomads Great Video. I always thought with those marine tanks that it had to be pressurized with the rubber bulb in order to work. Is this not the case for this application? TIA

[@annadale4618]

You're a clever man. You explain things really well and it's a breath of fresh air. From Anna in Hampshire.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi Anna, Thank you for your kind comments. Steve

[@scottherr642]

Excellent build answered a lot of my questions thanks!

[@trsfc1595]

I use central heating oil it's cheaper than red diesel, I also add Lucas fuel injector cleaner occasionally to clean and lubricate as the heating oil has less lubricity than diesel, I currently run it 14 hours a day

[@davidnew1887]

I'm having problems even finding red diesel to be honest no garage's around me don't sell it. As it's half the price of road diesel I'd sooner use red. Back in the day in the 80s I could get it delivered in drums but how ever iv seen a KZbin video on Mells van life he saying it's available at garage's iv yet to see a pump with red diesel and he's in the UK as well Looking forward to more of your videos as they are made in such detailed depth. Keep up the good work

[@lyfandeth]

@@davidnew1887 Here in the states it is found at agricultural and farm co-operatives and stores. Never seen it in gas station though.

[@madyottoyotto3055]

@@davidnew1887 your talking extra rural areas for red at pumps Might sound daft but would it run on veg oil save a lot of doe if it did

[@dylandylan11731]

Lubricate what? It’s not a engine … 🤯🤦🏻‍♂️ there are no moving parts…

[@samwittstruck.6685]

@@lyfandeth has to due with taxes.

[@garyc205]

You've fitted the fuel filter upside down! the inlet should be at the bottom so that any water/condensation sits in the bottom and cant get drawn up into the heater. Also, better to have the heater draw its air from inside the camper, heats the camper up way more quickly. last thing, best running the heater on kerosene (oil fired central heating fuel) half the price of red diesel. nice job tho.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi Gary, These small heaters generally only require a fuel sediment filter, which this is. As a sediment filter it it positioned correctly to protect any particles from reaching the gauze filter and blocking it where the fuel enters the burner chamber. Within the van and motorhome life community I've never heard of anyone having a fuel condensation problem where they have ever had to fit a water separator inline to these heaters and really think it's an issue? The air intake is positioned like this so as to give me fresh hot air into the habitation area, rather than stale recirculated air. Using kerosene is completely possible, but I plan to be fully mobile and travelling in Europe, so generally might be a problem. I fully get your valid points though and thanks commenting 👍 ATB, Steve

[@brianbrave]

absolutely brilliant! I was hesitant to tap into either of my fuel tanks in my diesel pickup truck. Your solution will work great and allow me mount everything under the truck bed and out of my small camper shell and still allow me to remove the heater fuel tank when I'm not camping.. only problem I saw it that the steering wheel is on the wrong side of your camper... but I'm sure you'll square that away....

[@reesh1940]

Great update, also thanks for explaining the thermostate/temp. unit. in your other vid. Greatings from Holland!!

[@garyc205]

I've just watched your original installation video, filter upside down on it too.

[@cliffbriggs8180]

?? the way it,s fitted you see any crap on the outside of the element !!!! that to me is the correct way

[@garyc205]

@@cliffbriggs8180 I'm afraid that's wrong. The fuel should enter from the bottom, any debris or water droplets will not make it as far as the filtering medium. And exit from the top. As a mechanic with 50yrs experience, I like to pass on hard earned knowledge to anyone who has an enthusiasm for a subject I've made my living from. I'm not preaching just advising. I hope you take it in the manner it's given.😁

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi Gary, I've replied to your other comments on this. ATB, Steve

[@madeleyinc]

​@@garyc205you may have 50 yrs experience in mechanics but that doesn't mean you've been doing it right for 50 yrs. Any filter system, enter into outer bowl exit through inner filter medium.

[@shaunedwards4893]

Kerosene is $17.00 a gallon here in Texas.

[@hdj81Vlimited]

haha, don't think the airliners pay that much.

[@wideawaketotruth5301]

Fantastic idea concerning adding the Marine tank. I'm in the process of building the interior of my box truck which I recently purchased. I bought a diesel heater last year and it worked exceptionally. I've been using the heater in my van conversion, so my intention is to move it into the box truck build. I'm going for the stealth look. Thank you for taking the time to produce this video.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Good times ahead then eh.... Best of luck with the build.

[@wideawaketotruth5301]

@@TheWrinklyNomads Oh yeah, for sure!

[@LastChanceTinyHouse]

Brilliant. Your video ungraded my understanding of how to do my first install. Thank you.

[@Parker5017]

Pulling air in from the outside of the vehicle is less eficient than recyling pre heated air from the inside the vehicle. This is what ive found anyway - ensure your heated air is recycled, this will lessen the load of the heater. You should also ensure the exhasut is a safe disatnce from the HA intake if drawing from outdoors - potenital for poisoning yourself. I presume this fella has routed his exhast off in the other direction, out away from the skirts of the vehicle. Ive been running mine for 3 years now (full time living) with only occasional maintenance. Hot air and ventalation are the keys to good internal climate.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi, I have done quite a few tests and found air inlet temperature has very little difference on hot air outlet temperature when the air temp is above 8degC. Under this and there can be upto a 5degC lower hot air outlet temperature. When it was below 0degC outside air there was a significant difference of up to 10degC. SO I agree with you there, it can make a difference, especially in the UK. The big thing for me is: I have no intentions of being in those low temperature..! Generally always in +10degC. This gives me the advantage of always have 'fresh; air passed through into the van, giving me the best of both worlds, hot air and ventilation. But I do agree with you for van life in this country: definitely recirculated air. ATB, Steve

[@stubarnes1965]

@@TheWrinklyNomads I was thinking about a directional Y splitter for the inlet. That way a choice of fresh air or recirculation for colder days.

[@Athrunwong]

That is actually Genius, will try that soon.

[@AndysEastCoastAdventures]

Fitted one of these in my boat and it is very toasty when on. They are good but with the kit that came I kept the main unit, controller, wiring & dosing pump. Everything else went in the bin as it's typical chinese junk and not fit for purpose. Proper fuel hose, webasto stainless exhaust hose, stainless sealed exhaust & bulkhead fitting and 316 stainless clips & fittings. Still so much cheaper than a eberspacher.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Yes I must admit, the burner unit is the main component and the rest poor quality. But overall, good value for money 👍🏼

[@matthewknight5641]

Really nice install. I just bought 2 heaters exactly like yours. One for the front and one for the back of my camper. Hopefully I can have an install clean like yours. Thanks for the videos

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Thank you Matthew. Just take your time, it's very a straightforward job. Good luck, Steve

[@RoyceMunday56]

What a tidy install. Useful tips. I'm on a narrowboat so the marine tank makes good sense. Thanks

[@carpenterfamily6198]

So the air intake ( not for combustion ) comes from outside ? Seems like it’s be better if that came from inside as the air inside is likely somewhat warmer than the outside air.

[@scottlittlewood4527]

That's what I do.

[@terrystearns1196]

I comes from the inside air

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi, my reason for taking the air from outside was to great fresh air into the cabin and not to recycle the stale air. So far it has worked well for me with no real impact on the output temperatures. ATB, Steve

[@thomasmargis9808]

The only thing I would change would be pulling the intake air from inside the vehicle...

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi Thomas, I want fresh, heated air, in the cabin. Not stale recirculated air. However, I might change my mind if it starts to effect the temperature of the outlet air during the winter..! I can still run ducting from the cabin through to the air inlet if this is the case. ATB, Steve

[@thomasmargis9808]

@@TheWrinklyNomads Hi Steve, I didnt worry about too cold air.. But more about the exhaust gases turning during heavy wind or other bad smells you suck in from outdoor during the night (parking over a manhole cover or something...) Greetings from Germany! ✌😊

[@PeterJavea]

Well done vidéo I just ordered my first one to use for my work cabin in the garden. It's one of those all in one red 5kw ones I will get another one similar to yours later, based on how it goes. I must say that every video about these heaters is positive.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi Peter The all in one heaters are excellent for workshops. Yes, never really seen a negative review on them. Minor faults etc, but mainly due to installation rather than a heater unit fault.

[@horatioalexandrusalceanu9722]

A big like, I only discovered you today, I'm glad that this happened, everything you do is brilliant, keep it up, success in everything you do, I wish you a beautiful day and what's important to me a long life.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Thank you Horatio, very kind of you 👍🏼 Best wishes Steve

[@1fryatuck]

I use kerosene in my heater it’s a lot cleaner and cheaper than red diesel.

[@garrydunkley1000]

That’s great but the piston fuel pump on the heaters need the diesel as well say 30/70 to lubricate the pump piston that way the pump will last longer ok 👍

[@steved9397]

Here in the state of Maine it's$45+- a 5 gallon pail of k1 I use #2 heating oil(red died desil )

[@alec4672]

What country do you live in? Here in the states kerosene usually runs about a dollar more then road diesel.

[@1fryatuck]

@@alec4672 here in 🇬🇧 the UK kerosene is almost half the price of road use diesel.

[@alec4672]

@@1fryatuck must be because of road tax. Is red diesel substantially cheaper? Here in the states you can get up to 75 cents off per gallon if you go for red.

[@johnlocker9959]

Question, why didn’t you pipe the inlet air from the cabin, recycling the cabin air would reduce the heat required to maintain the cabin temperature. Having a closed loop reduces the chance of carbon monoxide being sucked into the inlet. I really like your idea of using the 5 Gal outboard tank. I have my 5 K heater mounted on its side in a metal tool box and use inlet & outlet hoses, works well, I also have two motorcycle batteries in the box as well with a 12 volt charger.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi John, I want fresh air through to the cabin area instead of stale recirculated air. So far, performance does not drop, even in cold weather. But I have yet to try it in really cold, zero degree, weather.! The unit runs very clean and is positioned well away from the air intake so the chances of exhaust gas returning are low. All a case of trial and error to get the best results I suppose..... Had I not have a lower storage are I would use the metal box method - think that's a good idea. ATB, Steve

[@jcampb4]

@@TheWrinklyNomads You could always put a two way damper in the line like autos & & window A/Cs have. Want fresh air when it's not so cold, open the fresh air side. In really cold weather, close the fresh air intake and recirculate to save the heat you've already paid for.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

@@jcampb4 - Good idea, I like it...

[@gordonstark9018]

Awesome job on your upgrade. Very professional looking.

[@billjones5178]

Love your idea of removable boat fuel tank. Also how u sealed fittings and heat tested looking for hit spots after burning heater. U r wise and safe and understand why! Thanks. My spare fuel tank can be second marine tank, swapped in full.

[@George-xs2ms]

Oh my god why would you put the heater air intake outside ( not talking about heater combustion air inlet) Wind blowing right you can get carbon monoxide being blowed in heated and through your RV. Please explain why you did that .

[@AB-nb2ic]

And why not draw the warmed air from inside back into the heater for greater effiency? Easier to raise the temperature of warm air than cold air.

[@geoffpriestley7001]

The air intake comes from the cab area the air for combustion comes from outside. I have the same van there is jus enough room behind the passenger seat for the vent

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi George, People are either in the recirculated or fresh air camp over this one it seems. I have done extension testing on Co2 levels on my installation and I get absolutely no emissions entering the van cabin. The Co2 coming out of the exhaust is at a very low level to start with, gasses would have to travel 1 metre back and down underneath the van and the rise up and go through a channel before it gets to the air inlet. I have a Co2 minitor mounted next to the heater air inlet, another next to the hot air outlet and a further one in the cabin. At first I was concerned if this would be an issue but it seems there are no issues whatsoever with rouge Co2 in the cabin area. Hope that puts you mind at rest and thank you for raising those points. ATB, Steve

[@RemoteWatercraft]

The heater's air intake is positioned below the van, which coincides with the exhaust system's location. This presents a notable hazard of exhaust fumes entering the living space. To address this concern, it is recommended to install a distinct intake pipe that draws air from the habitation area. Additionally, it is essential to connect both ends of the heater to the habitation area to ensure safe and efficient operation.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi, the actual exhaust tailpipe is over two metres away and 250mm below the burner unit, so in my case there is no chance of any fumes returning into the unit. Plus the addition of several strategically placed Carbon Monoxide alarms ensures I have no worries. However, you make a fair point regarding the recirculation of air within the habituation area. Pulling air in from outside enables me to have fresh, clean air into the van, not any stale recirculated air. The down side of this is the incoming air temperature. Too cold and it has a detrimental effect on actual hot air temperature at the outlet. If below 5degC I see a drop of anything up to 10degC on outlet hot air..! Anything above the 5degC and there is no difference between recycled van air and the outside fresh air. Regarding recommendations: there's really no such thing. You can have both the air inlet and outlet ports open without any ducting at all and still have efficient operation. This setup has been running faultlessly now for over two years..... ATB, Steve

[@RemoteWatercraft]

I'm happy to see that it is not a problem for you. I have a troubling situation for my install. Perhaps you have some insight. My motorhome has a sub floor. Do I mount the unit inside? I fear of running the hot exhaust through the subfloor or do I cut a hole in the floor and mount it inside the subfloor. I then would need to run inlet and outlet buck up through the top. Can't decide what's best.

[@calvin2681]

Hey, Great video. I came up with a similar plan of purposefully placing a diesel heater inside one of the compartments in my RV with the similar reasoning you explained in your video after in-depth research. It is awesome to confirm that my plan will work nicely in advance. One question/suggestion though, as the @RemoteWatercraft suggested, I would like to achieve maximum efficiency by recirculating warm/hot air through the intake inlet, rather than taking the cold air from outside directly. Can you connect a tube to the inlet and point it upward toward the ceiling of your compartment or close to the heater toward the outlet pipe? In that way, the compartment will still inhale fresh air through the hole you already drilled out, but the average temperature of the air inside of the compartment will get higher quickly due to the heater burning in the compartment and the hot outlet pipe. Because the compartment is quite small, I think the heater can quickly achieve and sustain a higher average temperature in the compartment within minutes of operation, therefore providing warmer air to the intake. Maybe you can even decrease the size of the hole you drilled out to make sure the temperature of the compartment doesn't get too cold during operation, yet still inhales adequate fresh air from outside. Am I too much focused on the efficiency? I am also considering putting some insulation foam board around the diesel fuel tank to prevent it from gelling. Your take? @@TheWrinklyNomads​

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi Calvin, To be honest, it's easy to become over focused on efficiency as there's no real perfect conditions for these diesel heaters. Open a door or window and the efficiency thing goes to pot..... But you make some good points 👍 But one thing I did find is the actual outside air temperature plays quite a big part in hot air output. Anything over 5 dgegC in has hardly any effect on hot air out, but below this there is a significant decrease in hot air out. I'm still playing around with ducting as well, at the moment I have inlet air ducted from below the seating. Another interesting find is that I have removed the heating casing cap that screws the case together. This actually allows more air into and across the heater and gives a extra few degrees hotter at the outlet. I think it's a case of tuning the heater setup to your specific needs. ATB, Steve

[@jacobpoucher]

You got no idea how this works it sounds like

[@lesliestonebank]

Awesome job. Good idea using different tank. Probably everyone who has a diesel heater will copy you . 👍

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi Leslie, Well it certainly has worked well for me... Add a bit more overall expense to the heater but it's worth it I think.

[@DamianHoran13]

Great video with loads of good ideas especially the spigot and marine tank. Going to use these in my installation

[@dietrich431]

You get better efficiency if you recirculate your interior air through the heater instead of drawing in fresh air all the time. All though 90C is nothing to laugh at in terms of heating.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi, I chose this method as I want heated fresh air into the cabin. You are correct, you do get slightly better efficiency using recirculated air but I have found it heats the cabin up with no problem using this method. I think people are either in the recirculated or fresh air camp....!

[@marcdemmon208]

Ye the desial smell s

[@reesh1940]

But it does warm internal air, doesn't it??

[@dietrich431]

@@reesh1940 Its just like using recirculate or not in your car. This method takes in fresh air from outside your car. You still get heat either way.

[@michaelstora70]

@@marcdemmon208 the burner intake and exhaust is completely seperate from the heat exchanger intake and outlet.

[@saltpepper1894]

dont extend hoses, you will stress out the lil fan. If you want longer hoses you need to make wider hoses

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi, What hoses are you referring to??

[@saltpepper1894]

@@TheWrinklyNomads exhaust & air intake hoses

[@Jabba.1]

Exhaust can go up to 2mts with no ill effects or strain on it as per manufacturers booklet with correct amount of bends no more otherwise back pressure will occur or go to larger pipe .

[@robertcooper1908]

The whole series of videos is very helpful and informative well done thanks. I'm at present waiting for mine to be delivered to heat my 24m/sq workshop and if that's okay it's getting piped straight into the conservatory. Got to try different things in these strange times 🤞.Plus thousands of truckers and caravaners can't be wrong

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi Robert, It seems a lot of people are experimenting with this type of idea. From what I’ve seen it’s very cost effective and works well. Good luck with your project. 👍🏼

[@jeffvalasek4774]

Thank you! Installed heater, and your idea of using a boat fuel tank. That is what i did. Can just unhook the tank, take it to fuel station, and fill it there. No spilling, convenient, and reduces diesel smell. Great idea.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi Jeff, Yes, definitely more convenient and a much more heavier duty tank as well. I'm very glad I upgraded👍 ATB, Steve

[@jeffreyhill3960]

Has anyone been able to figure out a fuel pump that is rotary rather than the stock ones that tick all night and keep everyone up all night. Someone could make a fortune if this could be overcome.

[@lezbriddon]

they are very slowly creeping to market

[@AndreasEUR]

I love the ticking of mine, means I can sleep good knowing it's working. It's a true blessing

[@guysmith3146]

@@AndreasEUR Agreed, lived with that ticking even when the pump is mounted outside the vehicle for nearly forty years. Comforting sound.

[@allornothing7957]

Try a peristaltic pump? Might work

[@PeterJavea]

You should understand why we can't use a rotary pump from this Australian vidéo. (I had the same question also) kzbin.info/www/bejne/pIOpXnVtadh3o7M

[@trustme7731]

Nice, but the plastic tank worries me. I opted for a metal tank.

[@livelongandprosper70]

big mistake, plastic fuel tanks are MUCH safer

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

They are perfectly safe. All auxiliary tanks like this are made of a type of ABS plastic.

[@trustme7731]

@@livelongandprosper70 How so?

[@richardbarrow4299]

As always, clear and concise, good pros and cons, i really enjoy the videos, many thanks

[@maxloux42]

Hello, I did not understand everything (I do not speak your language), but the images are clear enough to sufficiently understand your beautiful installation. I already have a tank on my inflatable boat so I am thinking of doing the same fuel assembly. Thank you. Friendship of France. M @ x

[@jel386]

You should be getting the inlet air from in the living area not the cold air outside the way your running it is not efficient

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi J, I don't think of it as 'cold air'... Instead I prefer to have "fresh air" circulate into the cabin. I have tested this and the efficiency of the burner is hardly compromised at all. The only real time I noticed any changes in the output air temperature was when the outside air was below 5 degree C. But this was not really significant. These burner are really very efficient in their heat transfer. ATB, Steve

[@hudlistanparagliding]

Guys, maybe I’m missing something, but the pipe which you’re talking about is a pipe for the combustion chamber: the air that goes through it never gets inside the living space, it goes to the exhaust.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

@@hudlistanparagliding - we are NOT taking about the combustible air intake here. Rather the air inlet that then flows over the burning body and exits as hot air to warm the van. Hope that clarifies it…

[@hudlistanparagliding]

@@TheWrinklyNomads Ah, okay, got it. Thank you for clarifying. You do the great job with your educational videos. Great tips and informative narration! 👍

[@trustme7731]

I don't know the rules in europe, but here (US) plastic fuel cans and tanks do not vent out, only in. This causes the tank to pressurize which pressurizes the line and the end device. No thanks. The other problem is fire. If the RV burns, the plastic tank will melt and pour fuel out for a much more intense fire. RV fires have become VERY common with thousands every year. I chose a used steel outboard fuel tank that can be manually vented for use and closed when not in use and while traveling. I also will have a 3 way valve. Main tank, auxiliary tank and off.

[@sinusgolf]

Al the vans are with plastic tanks nowadays,when it burns that tank won't make the difference

[@gasgas2689]

I believe that all fuel tanks (in Europe at least) were changed from steel to plastic because in an impact steel joints fracture whereas plastic just deforms and doesn't spill the contents everywhere.

[@trustme7731]

@@gasgas2689 None of which has anything to do with what I said. The subject was portable fuel cans inside a motor home. Vehicle fuel tanks are outside and well below the steel floor.

[@chrisdekock8864]

LOL So the standard issue fuel tank sold with every unit is better in your opinion??? On the marine tank filler screw lid there is a screwable vent plug with a rubber seal. In my opinion this idea is excellent to go with a dinghy fuel tank. It is a tonne more robust, and if the tank would melt in a fire, your motorhome is a write off already by that point.

[@trustme7731]

@@chrisdekock8864 What standard tank with what unit? Motor homes with generators are fueled by the vehicle fuel tank and I wasn't talking about those tanks. They stopped making the vent 2 way on portable tanks. That's one reason why I chose an older outboard steel tank. New and late model portable tanks, including marine tanks, only draw air in and do not vent internal pressure. As far as fire goes, if a motor home is already a write off, I see no reason to add gasoline to a fire. These fires also typically spread to anything near it.

[@stevem3534]

Thanks for visitors Great idea just ordered tank

[@andycole2672]

Nice to see you used exhaust paste seen a lot videos not using it. Thinking of fitting to my caravan

[@wandahelmer1038]

Nice, really nice job..... LETS GO BRANDON...

[@georgelynn2871]

The cleanest instillation I have seen.

[@SMITHYSKONTIKI]

This is a great instructional video. As technology has moved on since my van was built I'm definitely looking into a diesel heater. Thanks for the video.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Thank you Smithy. I think that there perfect for a van or motorhome. Much better than a lpg system. ATB, Steve

[@kevindelaney7853]

I understood the reasoning for the fresh air intake to come from the inside of the cabin was because there is very little chance of sucking in ny exhaust fumes. That’s how i have mine installed and it works amazing with no CO2 readings. I do love your idea with the tank and the quick coupler. Brilliant idea!

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Yes, certainly works well eh 👍🏼

[@thefix2573]

Great work, taking time to do it right! I see so many hack jobs, it's good to see someone care and do their best.

[@NomadMoto]

I use the same heater in my 40' Skoolie. heats the bus really good. Great little heaters.

[@KeithPierce1000]

Nice install, very tidy and practical, im convinced now to put one in ours. 10/10 mate, thanks.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Glad it helped Arwen.. 👍

[@Fei8lo]

Those marine tanks are a nice upgrade. Also work great to extend the run time for small generators.

[@petehudson595]

Great video, as we only have a small motorhome on a peugeot boxer chassis I mounted ours in an underslung box. I tapped into the fuel sender which is easy to remove with the correct tool £8 (probably never used it again) and plumbed it with the correct eberspacher attachment, I also used genuine eberspacher exhaust and silencer which I found have made it less noisy. Having paid £600 for an eberspacher on our last van I find the Chinese heater a great option and I don't regret fitting it and have had great service out of it for £90.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Definitely good value for your money. Also, Installed properly they definitely last.

[@Jeynesy1]

Very well done and well explained, definitely something I will do for my camper in the near future 👌🏼👌🏼👌🏼

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Thanks Brad.. 👍

[@maverickmoore]

Great video. Thank you for taking the time to explain everything

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Thank you, glad you liked it 👍

[@stevemorris3710]

Great video, love the tank. One of the best installs I've seen.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi Steve Thank you for you kind comments..

[@jacadaxray]

That is one of the nicest builds I have seen. Thanks for your video :)

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Thank you for you kind comments. Steve

[@andijames4870]

Great video dont understand why people have problems with these heaters, well done.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi Andy, Agree with you there... I think they are pretty bulletproof.

[@stephengorin3059]

Great video. With my cdh the display failed due to being powered up all the time and after a few months the display became very dim and only readable at night. This is a common problem with all of the 5 button cdh controllers. I replace mine and also fitted a master switch into the main 12 volt DC line I used a small key switch of a alarm system to avoid someone turning of the heater without shutting down the heater properly. This shuts down the whole heater when not in use ( summer time for instant ). Works a treat and sofar no problems.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

I had the same problem. Landed up replacing the controller and fitting a main on/off switch as well. Keep it out of reach though....! ATB, Steve

[@sailorsrpblc6625]

great idea with this marine full tank! Well done Mate, and thanks!!!

[@King-bn3wr]

Not interested in camper vans but been looking into diesel heaters. Nice neat job well done.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Thank you...👍

[@happysurfcamper]

Fantastic job! To be honest i did just drill into the Ducato tank without experience with the Ducato and got the job done in 15 minutes.. i was quit nervous about it but it really wasn't hard to do. Thin plastic and just bended the pickup pipe so it goes outside the pump and a an inch from the bottum of the tank.

[@camperblackmagic7603]

Great video that made a lot of sense and easy to follow. Just about to fit one myself

[@MrTyler2121]

Great video. Awesome tutorial with loads of useful information! Thanks!

[@sailingaphrodite4189]

Looking to put a heater on the boat and love the fuel tank idea.

[@simplebuild9998]

Great Information Well Done!! Answered alot of my questions. A detachable boat tank makes way more sense to me. Also, the infusion of outside air makes tons of sense as well.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Thank you, Glad it was helpful!👍

[@kman6482]

Great video, the boat tank is a awesome idea.

[@landog59]

Outstanding job and very particular .