2002 Cadillac Deville DHS 4.6L Northstar blown head gasket removal without removing engine

[@josephcastro3448]

Good deal!!! and for those that were so offended about this man’s video I do not recall him cussing at you directly. Next I wouldn’t trust a mechanic that do not know how to cuss or get frustrated with this type of job. I Iove it Bro and many thanks!

[@stanleythomas5331]

I didn't have to train radiator nor powerstering but it's a lot of fucking work

[@stanleythomas5331]

My fault

[@kingcherrybomb666]

Man, if you don't get mad with the things you put time into you're not doing anything right .

[@zacht9116]

I enjoyed this video. Brings back the pita memory of me doing this on an Oldsmobile Aurora. I felt every ounce of frustration you expressed. I can happily say the Aurora has 290000 miles today. These engines will go once you do this job. Nice video!

[@fuckchocouch]

Zach T go in the good way or the bad way

[@jamesb8305]

DatGanjaSmuggla he has 290,000 on it, so you take a guess...

[@rickgilman772]

I love your video. I have never laughed so hard. I can totally relate to the complete pain in the ass these engines are to work on. thank you

[@ThePfunk222]

Hey man thanks a ton, I just did this job and your video was pretty much the only guide I had, which was also entertaining, I’m putting back together now so, thanks again!

[@phillipfixes]

I'm working my way through this job on a 98 Deville. Thank you so much for making this, it covers so many nuances of the job

[@phillipfixes]

@Johnny Bravo yes

[@blackericdenice]

Buy Felpro head bolts and don’t torque them more than 65 lbs-ft. They will not pull the threads out.

[@garyulyssesking]

I just did mine, a 2000 Seville, removing the crank pulley, I used jaw pullers, on the hub, they kept wanting to slip off, after 3 hrs, I finally wedged them on using pry bars and screwdrivers , damn, came right off. but talk about having to do three things to do one. you helped me a lot and I wanted thank you.

[@james7664]

Watching this video actually gave me the confidence to take mine apart and get dirty … great video love it !!

[@TheBanshee17-SS]

An honest mechanic this guy is a real one

[@Gawdsqwad]

10:03 the terminology instantly gives me confidence to do this this is real get things done attitude I like this

[@amarsta]

😂

[@coreymcdonald1520]

Your videos saving my life

[@repairbuildcreditservicesllc]

Thanks for taking the time to post this video. I learned a lot just by watching you do what you did. This is the only video I've seen like it. Keep up the good work.

[@davidjames666]

Hello. I recommended this video to my 1st graders to teach them determination. but their parents objected to your swearing, and colorful metaphors. next year, I will be reaching third graders, so I will recommend it to them.

[@spicemasterii6775]

Kids at South Park elementary loved this video.

[@EzekielPrado]

I feel old seeing this video, recorded in 2016? Feels like the 90s

[@charliem3314]

loved the video, i have the same car and have been in the auto parts industry for 40 years. i just pulled the rear valve cover off because the front motor mount was busted and there is a bolt coming out of the firewall that put a hole in the valve cover ,so i feel your pain these cars are just not made to work on anymore just imagine how easy all these things are on a small block say 1970 impala back in the day, i use to come home on my lunch break from school and pull a tranny. these cars now a days just takes 20 times the time to do anything that's why after 40 years in the auto business i had to close up all the backyard mechanics have gone and a lot of the shops too all i can say is f=== these new cars

[@blackalgorithmist000]

I had a 1998 Cadillac DeVille I had to do some work on it was the first car to introduce me into the mechanic world and I'm glad that it did because those Northstar engines are definitely trash and very complicated to work on but on top of that I also had some head gasket problems I had to put a new seal on mines which was a pain in the ass so the fact that you replace the head gaskets all in itself I could only imagine how frustrating it was

[@williamramshaw968]

Thanks for the video and detail..quick question I'm not going to be able to get the heads completely out not skilled enough but i can get both Valve covers off and work on it in the car...I'm hoping its just the gaskets so I'm just wondering if i replace the bolts same size if i have no threads or damage to them...I'm afraid on the time serts and drilling especially on the back head and my skill level money ect...so if my bolts look ok and i put new ones at the same size back in and new gaskets do you think i'd be ok...i think its 89lbs so say i torque them at maybe 85lb to just try to like the odds of stripping or snapping one of them..any advice greatly appreciated

[@jamesorozco1243]

What a good video .this is the best i've ever seen . You make it look easy. Thanks

[@davidjames666]

I am waiting to see if these smaller engines in Cadillacs are easier to work on. I have a 1996 with the northstar. I also have a 2014 ATS with the 2.0 turbo AWD. My 1996 has been 99% trouble free. Radiator,surge tank, belt tensioner replaces after 18 years. The rest is brakes and a fuel pump.

[@jgfrakes2736]

I like the video. I'm wondering though why you didn't remove the top radiator support, the radiator and the hood latch structure, before tearing into the engine. If you did those things, there would have been A LOT of room in the engine bay! The alternator, front engine mount, front exhaust manifold, etc.

[@nicotoscani8270]

Are you from Chicago?

[@wakepe1]

Loved your honesty and awesome job now as for the rear valve cover you only have to get the EGR out n the valve will come out without removing any lower bolts I haven’t gotten to the heads just yet but I’ve pulled the covers off thank you for this awesome coverage 👑

[@Manidahoan]

O.K. I need your help...You mentioned that you have to loosen two bolts lower the engine mount and one bolt up front of the frame? I'm confused because I cannot locate these bolts..I cannot remove the rear value cover otherwise. So, if you would be so kind as to let me know what to look for..

[@flawrence11]

I seem to remember that I removed the front motor mount after I took the rear valve cover off. In order to remove the rear valve cover, I just needed to loosen the 18mm engine cradle bolts. Doing so let the engine drop the few inches that I needed. Once that was done, there was enough room to remove the rear valve cover. Make sure to have jacks under the engine cradle when you do this. The 18mm cradle bolts don't need to be removed completely. However, if you need to take the front motor mount out at this time, you'll have two 15mm bolts on the top of the mount frame, These two bolt onto the left head. On the bottom, the mount frame has two 15mm bolts. There is also an 18mm bolt that holds the motor mount itself to the cradle frame. However, if you're currently at the step of removing the rear valve cover, I'd forget about the front motor mount at the moment and simply try loosening the left and right rear cradle bolts and see if the engine will drop the few inches that you need.

[@Manidahoan]

Understanding you clearly, thanks for the answer...I needed help...and you gave it to me..Thanks alot and God Bless...

[@Manidahoan]

Thank you so much...I know what I have to do..Thank you!

[@dieagoburress3140]

Where are located at do you do work

[@josephdeluna7244]

Good job. Totally understand the frustration but you handled that well. Keep up the good work

[@flawrence11]

FYI - Here are the parts that I needed for my Head gasket job ... Name Brand Part # Alt Part # Cost 1. Exhaust Flange Gasket Felpro 61431 21992620 $16.99 Victor F31962 $12.99 2. Exhaust Manifold Gasket Felpro MS93371 $15.99 Victor MS16373 $16.99 3. Head Gasket - Right Felpro 26151PT $27.99 4. Head Gasket - Left Felpro 26150PT $27.99 5. Intake Manifold Gaskets Felpro MS9331 $17.99 Victor MS16371 $15.99 Dorman 615-715 $14.99 6. Timing Chain Gasket Felpro TCS46013 $43.99 Victor JV5065 $46.99 7. Head Bolts X2 Felpro ES72187 $37.99 Victor GS33387 $47.99 8. Timing Chain Upper X2 RC-1019 $38.99 9. Timing Chain Lower RC-1020 $20.99 9. Timing Chain Guide Upper 7310 $14.99 10. Idler Pulley Duralast 231159 $39.99 AC Delco 38041 $39.99

[@joshuamcfelt3423]

I m doing this one my 2000 seville Sts in just need to take of the front and rear manifold so when I drop part of the sub fram to get to them do I just do the front and when I use the jack to keep the botor lifted were do I use the jack ?

[@flawrence11]

There is a metal brace that is over the exhaust crossover and that (I think) bolts onto the transmission. You can see the jack in its place around 35:40 of the video. You have to use this brace to hold up the engine, NOT the oil pan. Yes, the trick to doing this job with the engine still in the car is to remove the back head with the exhaust manifold still attached to it. You don't need to take the front manifold off ... only remove the bolts for the front exhaust manifold and detach it from the head. As for the rear manifold, you do your disconnecting from the head once the rear head is out of the car. Remember to use lots of jack stands around the engine cradle while you are under there.

[@flawrence11]

Also, around 38:13 of the video, I show how I just detached the front exhaust manifold from the front head. I didn't need to remove the front manifold from the car in order to do this job. The rear exhaust manifold is a different story. The rear exhaust manifold gets taken out of the car while it is still attached to the rear head.

[@2DopeKicks]

Is this video also a guide for the 93 seville touring sedan?

[@jbstepchild]

Pretty much everything I dealt with have been in this video your awesome wished I'd seen this earlier

[@RG-lw9uw]

What are the head bolt tightening sequence?

[@leonardpeters3266]

That is a very special kind of insanity. I was thinking of doing this but then I decided I would throw roofing nails on the ground and roll around in them naked instead. My hat is off to you sir. And it isn't like I haven't done some crazy stuff like pulling the motor on a 95 park avenue. But this is a bit much.

[@blessedaulways4561]

I love your video. I have never laughed so hard.

[@trident5523]

Should i follow this for a 2005? Car is shaking when idle and ive done about every damn thing you can for my coolant system and it still overheats when idle.

[@flawrence11]

This will work for a 2005 Northstar, but this procedure should only be done as a last resort and once you are absolutely sure that the head gasket is your problem. A shaking at idle can be caused by dozens of things ... i.e., a bad coil pack, bad plugs, bad tp sensor, ...etc. Make sure it's your head gasket by doing a battery of tests ... rent a block tester from Autozone (with the blue fluid), do a compression test, a cylinder leakdown test, check for antifreeze in the oil, check for oil in the antifreeze, pressure test for coolant leaks, make sure your water pump is in good working order, the radiator is not plugged, the cooling fans are coming on ... etc. Once your are absolutely sure that your head gasket is bad, then begin the process in the video. Good luck.

[@trident5523]

@@flawrence11 thanks alot, will do

[@dakeda2024]

.. rare video much appreciated///I have a 96 deville ..always something going on.ev couple weeks// lol //. timing chain cover . litt leaky I think … how hard .?

[@realt3600]

Great video, how did the car do when you put it back together

[@flawrence11]

I'm glad you asked that because I need to mention something to anyone who does this job for the first time: When I put it back together and started it up, I had a horrendous amount of white smoke that came out of the tailpipe. It smelled like antifreeze, too. My heart dropped and I started swearing. For the first day or so, I thought that I did something very wrong. It turns out that there was a huge amount of residual antifreeze stuck in the exhaust system that was causing that condition. Once that stuff blew out, everything was back to normal. Of course, about two months later, my catalytic converter was so rusty that it basically fell apart and I had to replace it. The car now has over 295,000 miles on it and it is running strong. The body looks like it has leprosy, but some bono and $1,000 paint job at Maaco would fix that. If you end up doing this job and having white smoke coming out of the exhaust right away, don't automatically conclude that you did something wrong.

[@realt3600]

2002 Deville I'm actually in the process of doing this job now and taking it step by step with your video ,this morning I finally removed the balancer , it was like it was welded on , but I'm stuck on how is it possible to remove the bolts from the exhaust manifold on the back bank it seems like I can't lower the engine far enough to get to it

[@flawrence11]

Around 36:01 of the video, you'll see a shot of how I used a floor jack to hold up the engine. That floor jack goes directly under the metal brace near the transmission and exhaust cross-over. That's the only safe place to put the jack. Pump-up and angle the floor jack to tilt the engine where the back of the engine (the right bank) tilts slightly downwards and the front of the engine (the left bank) is slightly upwards. You may need to do this a few times to get the tilt angle right. I remember this being a difficult step, particularly because those bolts were so hard to turn. I used long extensions and a breaker bar to get up there, while laying on the ground. The part of the exhaust that leads to the catalytic converter will be in your way. Spray some PB Blaster on the bolts right now so that by the time you get a socket on them, they're already treated. The rear two cradle bolts need to be almost out (but still screwed in enough so that they're still holding up the engine). The trick is the angling of the engine to get a socket, with long extensions, up there on those two bolts. You might need to use a block of wood between the floor jack and the metal brace. Please put jack stands around the cradle while you're under the car.

[@flawrence11]

For some reason, it popped into my head today that you said " ...I'm stuck on how is it possible to remove the bolts from the exhaust manifold on the back bank ..." Do you know that you only need to remove the two bolts that connect the exhaust manifold to the exhaust pipe flange? See 1:02:38 through 1:04:50 and the shot at 1:17:15 and 1:20:02. You take the rear head off while its still connected to the exhaust manifold. Once both pieces are out of the car, then you remove the exhaust manifold bolts and separate the two.

[@realt3600]

Thanks, one more question were you able to turn your timing chain with your hand, I don't know if mine is seized or what but I can't get the pulleys to turn in order to set it at top dead center thanks

[@ronbissonette9638]

howd you do your timing mine gets stuck when i try to crank it

[@flawrence11]

As I mentioned in the video, getting the timing exactly right is the one thing that you need to do with absolute precision. If you are one tooth off on one of the CAM sprockets, you'll end up with a P300 random misfire code that won't go away. You'll need to tear just about everything off again to get the engine cover off (including removing all of the pulleys) and you'll have to remove the valve covers (which means lowering the engine cradle again). So, this must be done exactly right the first time around. Having said that, you'll have to rotate the crank by hand until the timing marks line up above the crankshaft. Keep in mind that they'll line up twice, every six or seven revolutions. When the timing marks line up where the CAM sprockets line up, you're where you want to be. See the video at 51:40 to 55:35. It's possible that you lined the timing marks up down at the bottom, but the CAM sprockets on the top are on the wrong stroke (intake vs exhaust). You'll need to rotate the crank by hand 6 or 7 more times to line it up correctly this time, if indeed that's your problem. Once you think that it's lined up correctly, double check it with a ruler or straight edge held against each head, as compared to the dot on each CAM sprocket. Those CAM sprocket dots must be precisely at the top. Good luck.

[@RG-lw9uw]

I can't find the cylinder head tightening sequence. Does it matter much

[@craiglewis9956]

STOP! I've done 4 Northstar engines that had the same problem (overheating) because the head gasket blew and if you want to do it right and not cuss and swear like he did, drop the whole cradle with engine, suspension and transmission as one unit. You can get to everything better see what needs to be replaced (I'd replace that oil pan gasket, they tend to leak around 50K miles)and torque everything right when you put it back together. I can almost bet that car didn't run right or at all when he got the heads back which was another cost he didn't have to have. The Northstar engine is a great engine except engine blows the head gaskets because the block is aluminum. The threads in the block fail causing coolant to leak into the combustion chamber. Cadillac knows this is a problem and has a kit to drill the old threads out of the block and install new threads (also called inserts). If you do this job don't use GM's kit, there is a guy (contact me for his name and product not sure if I can mention here) who sells steel inserts that are awesome, you will snap a headbolt before his inserts fail, like I said I've done 4 engine and always used his product. This is not a two day job because you want to take your time when drilling the old threads out and installing the new inserts. His kit comes with the correct drill bits, cutting oil, steel ruler (6"), jig to ensure you drill straight and true into the block and 20 steel inserts. The kit paid for itself after I finished my first car. When I did the other three all I had to buy was the new inserts and he even threw in a new drill bit and cutting oil. I'm not trying to slam this guy he just made the job a nightmare to put back together because there are three timing chains in that car and the timing has to be set perfect when putting back together of you will have a check engine light FOREVER.

[@trident5523]

What kit?

[@donwadd9143]

The man who sells the kit is?

[@sydau6380]

@@donwadd9143 Hi there, Please just google the Car Wizard he has a Video where he names the kit as he drops the engine to do this job.

[@donwadd9143]

@@sydau6380 I found a pro mechanic that is a Caddy specialist in Illinois. Thanks!

[@markstark7731]

@@donwadd9143 where is he located or how can I contact him for service on my cadillac?

[@GeraldNelson-rp2ct]

Plug the return jacket to encourage radiator circulation this will stop overheating problem

[@galegregory97]

I HAVE A 1999 JUST THE LEFT SIDE AND JUST RIGHT SIDE OF MY RADIATOR GETS HOT FAN IS NOT ON CENTER IS ICE COLD NEW WATER PUMP IN IT. ITS OVER HEATS WHEN I DRIVE IT, JUST SETING AND RUNING IT WILL NOT GET HOT LOL?? WHAT YOU THINK

[@jdrok5026]

Gale Gregory might be a head clamping issue pushing blow by into the cooling system

[@narele25]

POV: You were shocked when you saw the year of the camera say 2016, and expected this to be a throwback.

[@jameswhite1319]

Definitely helps thankyou for your time

[@carlsandburg7444]

I hope this never happens to my 2001. But if it does, I know this video exists. Thanks.

[@anymoose]

Oh trust me, it will. lol

[@carlsandburg7444]

@@anymoose 175K and nothing yet.

[@anymoose]

@@carlsandburg7444 No coolant problems at all? That's great.

[@carlsandburg7444]

2 water pumps. No idea why. Pretty easy though.

[@anymoose]

@@carlsandburg7444 Well that's cool. But from what I understand it really is inevitable. It's a design flaw with the head bolts, the threads are too small and eventually the bolts start to pull away and lose torque.

[@nevillelaurel4231]

Hola Muy buen viedeo, tengo un Cadillac Deville 98 y tengo que reparar la tapa de cilindros.

[@flawrence11]

Gracias. Tiene que reparar la tapa de cilindros o junta culata?

[@pablolefler5808]

Any one know where to get the pully remover

[@tiredironrepair]

53:00 Or to bend 32 valves.

[@ryder4721]

your gonna have fun putting all that shit back together.

[@PlasticRocket2]

Didnt know people still used cameras like this

[@cadillacdoctor1351]

You make this job sound quite a bit more complicated than it really is.

[@Mike-vi9do]

inserts are the wrong way to go.

[@HUBBABUBBADOOPYDOOP]

God Bless you, and your Brother- words said at passionate moments are only emotional, and devoid of substance. You should apologize to Him, and be thankful to have Family. This is a huge, frustrating job, at the mercy of the Elements, and the amount of energy one's body can summon. Few people can relate to this- watching a highly edited TV show or Internet video, in a garage, with any tool at your fingertips. Of course- all is done "by the Book" and is easier- but who wants to see that? Take care, and think about what I said.

[@jackwild1111]

LMAO 😂... Interesting video, reminds me of n Anthony Bourdain quote: " things got lost, things got broken, we took some casualties... But I wouldn't have missed it for the World" 🌎

[@davidadamson3345]

Im going to try to keep mine low mileage & preserve it

[@darkshadows6121]

you are a great Mechanic i wish you lived close by by to do my northstar

[@desmetde]

GOOD JOB THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME

[@garyulyssesking]

If I would have known, I would've bought something else, but it was a junkyard find with 88,000mi an STS super straight body, If there was a way to just drop the front cradle, at my home I would do it that way. but alas.... these engines are notorious oil seepers, damn it

[@4rustin]

Easy fix- new car.

[@brandonamond3124]

To the junkyard we go

[@americanGTA]

this is gold

[@soopsoopdawoooop5586]

gd bless ya that was a jb my friend

[@tpe690]

Great video

[@marlonfb6_raiden662]

This video looks very helful but damn Video quality is soo poor.

[@caiomendes4799]

Man I am doing the same fucking job now ..... Jesus is so hard man a lot pain ...... And to take off the two bolts socket 15 mm on the exhaust is very complicated I broken two sockets trying move the both, tomorrow I will try again...

[@flawrence11]

I know exactly what you mean. I remember spending an entire day trying to get those bolts off. The way that I did it was to jack up the front of the engine so that the back part of the engine tilted slightly downwards. There is a metal brace near the transmission pan that you can use to jack up the engine. Once I did that, with the back of the engine slightly tilted down, I was able to get under the car with a socket, a couple of long extensions, and a breaker bar onto those bolts. Be sure to use jack stands and protect yourself when you're under the car. What you're doing right now is the single biggest "trick" to getting this job done. Because you can't get the exhaust manifold off the rear head, you have to take the rear head out still connected to the exhaust manifold. Then, once it is out of the car, then you can disconnect the head from the exhaust manifold. Those who do not know about this "trick" cannot do a head gasket job on a Northstar engine while it's still in the car. Good luck.

[@caiomendes4799]

Absolutely genius, thank you so much I will try your idea tomorrow wish me good luck.... Have a good night.

[@dakeda2024]

they say the north star was supposed to be made maintnence free as poss...I got a 96 deville with 100000 mile ..just got it running good,best its been running since I got it 2 years ago at.77000..was having f'n emmissions system stuff.with a random misfire bs . was vacume leak up top ...pcv elbow ,, ,there really is a strong vacume to this engine /I had to do ignition coil .2 was burnt out,,so changed all plugs with wires .mayn she runs real good now . .as for the head gaskets ,, I have heard from a very reliable source .. that you just keep the coolant fresh and fairly new and add the almond shell pellots every change here on out ..that way it wont over heat with the acidity of old fluid eating at the gasket meanwhile allowing the coolant seeping through aluminum holes seadily misplace the bolts in the threads . ;aluminum is the delicacy of the engine so remember ,not to much heat ,,the suspenstion is what is what ive been trying to get righ/,sounds like krap..t ,I did the rear knuckles yest .and they looked like they were found on the ocean floor ... now a world of diff . power with control .. in the right direction ..firkin car was fishtailing in the back knuckles were so bad .got a press did em right on the car ..,frikn mechanics these days and what the y charge at the shops ,.suspention is a btch on this to get it quiet.but little by little

[@flawrence11]

The head gaskets finally went bad after 285,000 miles on this car. For the last 5 or 6 years, the car had a slow coolant leak. It was a hassle to top off the DEX-cool every two weeks, but I now think that's what prolonged the life of the car. The DEX-cool never got a chance to get old.

[@jasper60103]

I'm at that point now with my 2004, except I have to top it off every 2-3 trips. Its parked right now and I'm still debating whether to have it repaired or cut my losses. Just curious, did you drill, tap and stud the block, or just replaced the head gaskets?

[@jasper60103]

Never mind my question above. I see you answered it in the video. Good job. Thanks.

[@flawrence11]

If you're debating it, I'd suggest taking off the two valve covers and removing the head bolts for an inspection. If they're all tight (with no metal shavings that come up with them when you remove them), I see no reason why you couldn't just buy new head bolts and install them after replacing the head gaskets. That would make your job a lot easier. If, on the other hand, your head bolts are loose and/or the threads are shot in the block (i.e., you see metal shavings that come up with the head bolts), then you're absolutely going to need to use inserts (if you do the job with the engine still in the car) or studs (if you remove the engine). If you choose to just buy new head bolts and install them, then I would suggest slightly under-torquing them. Please keep me posted.

[@agencyheadquartersdc4568]

this cars are piece of shit i went to test drove car like this cuz of my new job soon and everything on the car was on check engines the rear suspension was bouncing up down and it was from dealer ship as well so im going to get prob 2014 ford taurus

[@jdrok5026]

Mustang98 3919 um what? this engine hasnt been used for years because of the issues with the bolts you can just put a northstar performance stud kit in and they are reliable as hell

[@TheBanshee17-SS]

@@jdrok5026they need a whole rebuild to be remotely reliable my friend and I are about to rebuild mine it’s been sitting for almost 4 years

[@4rustin]

Way too complicated for any average mechanic. Need advanced shop.

[@jamesb8305]

The starter is under the fucking intake? What a horrible design.

[@chrisj197438]

James B Actually it’s not bad to change and keeps the starter and wires protected from the elements. The starters will last 200K miles or more if cars charging system is maintained.

[@JackSmith-xp1rk]

You're a Saint 🙏

[@Juli-n-David]

Niiice

[@jessewhite34081]

Hey I remember my first time removing a ohc head too about 19 years ago not that hard. let's make it sound harder than what it really is come on its not rocket science it's just a 4.6 dohc.

[@sterlingwitherspoon5709]

It’s just not worth my time.

[@mahmoudhasnaoui1279]

Very messy work Sorry to say