2004 HONDA ACCORD TRANSMISSION PROBLEM: PO848- 3RD CLUTCH PRESSURE SWITCH CIRCUIT

[@brooklyn7941]

I have the same car a 2.4 sedan and it sometimes does not want to go into first gear when I turn the car on and drive off it will stall for a sec then just go into second gear , sometimes also when I drive off going to normally drive it will do that as well it only does this when I’m low on fluid bud the thing is the fluid keeps escaping somewhere idk , the person who sold the car to me said it got rebuild but I feel like they ain’t changed the solenoids or those sensor or the filter

[@arthuryambor2168]

I changed my 3rd switch like you did, but the green light next to the D will start flashing after a few minutes of driving (and shifting thru 3rd gear). The shifting is smooth, so mechanically it feels fine. Do I need to erase the error code with a computer like you have to get the D to stop flashing or should it have automatically have stopped flashing?

[@carlorocky]

My ‘04 accord v6 is showing a code for torque converter clutch solenoid. Should I even bother with changing it? I hear of people having trouble after replacing it.

[@niemand000]

Which Autel scanner are you using that allows display of live gear position?

[@thisisyourtransmission]

@@niemand000 906BT

[@kyleh5356]

My 2003 Honda Accord V6 shifts fine in 1,2,4 but slips to 3 and stutters can this solve the problem?

[@thisisyourtransmission]

what codes do you have?

[@daviderhahon]

Nice video. But I also noticed the SRS light was on. Did you later get that fixed?

[@thisisyourtransmission]

I only deal with the transmission, as a result, I did not fix an srs light.

[@arberzykollari5535]

Hey buddy i have an 03 accord ex had it since 08 with 160k on it now. Recently ive experienced shifting either 2-3 or 3-4 the rpm go higher into 4-4.5k rpm before it switches gears most of the time while the engine its hot. No codes or blinking D whatsoever. Do you have any idea what could it be. Thanks for your time buddy.

[@thisisyourtransmission]

I cannot diagnose over the internet. However, if it is a 4 cylinder, it is probably the transmission going bad.

[@arberzykollari5535]

@@thisisyourtransmission yea its is a 4cylinder nd thank you for the answer.

[@jesusdelgadillo5736]

My 2005 Accord 2.4L drive light blinks only during freeway speeds between 55-70 mph. Once at those speeds it takes a mile for the D light to blink. But it doesn’t blink over 75mph. Do you know what issue I might have?

[@thisisyourtransmission]

A scan tool needs to be hooked to your vehicle to read what the on board computer is trying to tell you.

[@georgeelmerdenbrough6906]

Possibly , there are more than one sensor , each for a different gear ...

[@AMGTT]

Mine won’t go past 3rd gear. I’m D it slips and free rev when going to 4th. Car drives fine in D3

[@thisisyourtransmission]

Seems as if you need a transmission. If it revs in 4th gear, the transmission has to be replaced.

[@AMGTT]

@@thisisyourtransmissionI have a transmission at the shop but I will replace the 3rd gear pressure switch just to see what happens. It won’t go past 3rd gear

[@MasJets]

Good info , thank you

[@germancosta749]

exelent I try to chek that

[@magicwand6746]

Nice job

[@pjwill1077]

Can I follow these steps for an Acura TSX 2005?

[@thisisyourtransmission]

You can if it has pressure switches.

[@pjwill1077]

Where would my 3rd gear pressure switch be on my TSX 2005?

[@thisisyourtransmission]

Your vehicle should be a mcta transmission. However, I do not know the location of the pressure switches on this transmission.

[@Jodeyjoe559]

@@pjwill1077 google..

[@beast11135]

Did the transmission drive a certain way that was bad? Mine jerks a bit from 2nd to 3rd gear with slightly higher rpm's.

[@thisisyourtransmission]

Didn't feel a symptom on this one.

[@beast11135]

@@thisisyourtransmission I took the wheel off and what I found was surprising. The cable that connects to the 4th pressure switch was somehow cut off at the connector that goes on the Pressure switch. It looks like the switch Is In a harness with about 4 other cables that go to other sensors. I was thinking of going to a junkyard and snipping the cable that I need and splicing both cables and connecting them, do you think that could work?

[@thisisyourtransmission]

Yes

[@milehighbuilt6373]

Could a Check Engine Light (CEL) code: P0756 Shift Solenoid B Performance or stuck off for a '04 Honda Accord EX 2.4L 4-Dr Sedan Automatic (approximately 259,000 miles) just be a Solenoid issue or something else (Pressure switch, etc) if the car is not going into Reverse for up to 2 minutes & the same thing for Drive (Have to wait a few seconds up to 2 minutes) Drive light blinks, Check Engine Light is on & that is the only code displayed; P0756 Shift Solenoid B performance or Stuck Off (Other issues: Sometimes there's a quick grinding sound when the car is switching into gear usually after the car is stopped at a stop sign/light then moving again, RPMs rev up high but the speedometer stays low & takes a while to switch gears. After the CEL had been cleared the car drove fine in all gears, 65mph no problem, etc then when the CEL & blinking Drive light came back on it had the issues listed above). Other Notes: Honda dealership recently drained/filled with new transmission fluid approximately 3 weeks later while up in the mountains I had a loose negative battery connection; dashboard lights flickered, RPMs reved high with harder shifting, after I realized it was a loose negative battery connection I used a SHIM to fill the gap>Battery connection issue fixed but then I started experiencing transmission issues; Just delayed shifting (High RPMs before kicking into gear) took the shim off which obviously involved disconnecting the negative battery cable then lone behold the car was shifting fine. Had to put the shim back in (loose connection) then the same transmission problems started to occur again & became progressively worse as mentioned above. Later after the car finally kicked into Drive it was taken to a transmission shop & they said they were barely able to get it into their bay by pushing it (While in Neutrel) They said it needed to be driveable to run their scan tool to pull codes/test the transmission & their final result is they said it needs a rebuilt transmission ($4500+) no code scans, test drive, they believe it couldn't just be the solenoid, etc. Since it delays so long and or doesn't go into Reverse gear or drive (Not sure how long they actually waited to give the car a chance to go into those gears). If the transmission is actually no good I will take it to a shop that takes the exsisting original transmission out & rebuilds that $2000-$2800 instead of this shop who only orders comptely rebuilt ones for $4500+ (They said they don't rebuild transmissions on foreign cars because they had too many issues & only rebuild original transmissions on American vehicles). Just wanted some feedback, opinions if they still could've scanned the vehicle properly since it starts & even if it can't kick into gear to test drive it and also based on this info if it still could be a Solenoid fix etc (Lengthy info in case this is helpful to determine the issue better & in case this is beneficial to anyone else experiencing similar issues).

[@thisisyourtransmission]

259,000 is too many mile for me to pick with a transmission. I would either rebuild it completely or install a good used one if this type of mileage came to the shop. The transmission has done its job at this point. Now, If you were experiencing a problem with a loose battery terminal. Then, you should remove the shim an install a new terminal that will tighten to see if your problem would go away. That is what I would do if the cable was loose. Next, shift solenoid codes can mean bad solenoid or bad transmission. If the computer commands a solenoid to shift and there is no change, it will blame the solenoid even if it is not bad. A bad shift solenoid will not allow the transmission to slip. It just will not shift. However, a bad pressure control solenoid Will cause the transmission to slip! However, with the mileage that transmission has on it, another transmission or rebuild will probably be your best option.

[@thisisyourtransmission]

Where are you that charges $4500?!

[@milehighbuilt6373]

@@thisisyourtransmission AAMCO in Colorado $4500 for a completely rebuilt transmission (Not the one currently in the car). Found a place that will rebuild the exsisting tranny for $2400.

[@suavelo5494]

Can an p0977 cause a car not to start . 04 accord 2.4 bcla trans

[@thisisyourtransmission]

I don't believe this will cause a no start problem. This is a transmission shift solenoid code.

[@suavelo5494]

Yes the park light is solid but D is flashing. I change the shifter cable & a temp sensor. I damaged them when removing engine & trans

[@suavelo5494]

Do you kno any good value to look for? Like ohms etcs

[@suavelo5494]

Also got under the car at service plate & push the shifter on the trans all the way forward to it stop for P

[@k24accord25]

A transmission control module could cause that try putting it in neutral to start

[@newwavepressure6478]

Wish i could afford one of those computers 3000 dor one i would just buy another car and not even deal with the prob i didnt wanna spend the 200 for the harber fraight zr13 lol

[@zziwavincent3274]

Same problem with my car

[@anthonyvazquez1430]

Is this for a 4 cylinder?

[@thisisyourtransmission]

6 cylinder