2005-2010 4.6L Mustang GT timing chain oil pump replacement

How to replace timing chains, and an oil pump on a Ford Mustang GT. This car had 4 VCT related codes, and a nasty rattle, and misfire. p0012, p0022, p0340, and a p0345. I tried to remedy this without doing an engine teardown, or replacing the engine, and I would hardly call it a fix. Also used an EngineTech timing chain set, that I would hardly call a direct fit. I will not do a job this way a second time. 2006 2007 2008 2009 05 06 07 08 09 10
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Rust Belt Auto, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Rust Belt Auto assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this video at your own risk. Rust Belt Auto recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Rust Belt Auto, No information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained.

[@truthsmiles]

Currently in the middle of this job on my son’s car (2005 GT 175k mi). We’ve both watched this video a few times and against your recommendation we hoped to stave off disaster doing the same job with one exception: Related and incidentally I came across a post where someone described very similar issues (17 psi, phaser knock, etc), and after new timing set, oil pump, etc. the oil pressure never came up. They relented and took it to the dealer and amazingly the dealer solved the issue by cleaning all the broken timing chain guide bits from the oil pickup tube which was almost completely clogged. Since we knew our guide had broken we decided to pull the pan (yes it’s possible with an engine hoist without removing the engine or the subframe). The pickup tube was nearly completely clogged! We decided that was enough hope to proceed without pulling the engine, but just to check ourselves we clearanced the cam bearings with plastigauage. Scratched and ugly, but nothing over 0.002, which is good enough. We also discovered one of the intake rockers on cylinder 3 had come off and was laying in the head. We scoped the cylinder and didn’t see obvious valve contact, but we’ll compression test them all once it’s running again. Unfortunately the rocker destroyed the cam lobe as well, so we replaced just that cam. Also, the driver side cam phaser locking pin was completely missing. Finally during reassembly we found 5 lash adjusters (lifters) had no “spring”, so against better judgement we replaced only those 5 instead of the full set. So, new right side cam, all new roller rockers, 5 new lifters, new phasers and timing gear/chains, guides, cast iron tensioners, and that’s it. We decided to leave the oil pump alone, and we’re just hoping the crank bearings are all in good condition. We could probably check a couple but the bolts are torque to yield and we’re lazy and cheap. Plan is to finish putting it all together, fill it with 5W20, and keep our fingers crossed while we check pressure. I’m cautiously optimistic the oil pickup tube was the main culprit, and perhaps the new phasers and lifters will boost pressure a little. Notably, the tensioner gaskets were NOT blown out as I expected them to be. I’ll try to remember to come back and update with results. PS: The initial symptoms were severe phaser knock on the left (driver) side, which led us to connect a pressure gauge. We found 17 psi and the knocking started at 18. Changing to 10W40 oil raised the pressure to about 22 psi which cured the knock and he ran it like that for 2 months. But we knew it needed attention so last weekend we started the tear down to at least check the phaser and the oil pickup tube. The rest is all “discovered”. Update: She lives! We fired her up this evening with our mechanical gauge connected and I’m thrilled to report that the oil pressure settled at 31 psi at hot idle with 5W20 on board. We changed so many things I can’t be certain what made the difference, but I strongly suspect the plugged oil pickup tube was the main culprit. My opinion is this: If you discover your chain guides have broken (can be diagnosed just by pulling off the valve covers), pull the pan and clean the pickup tube. Good luck everyone :)

[@headhoncho4890]

I know this is 4yrs old but this is the best video I’ve seen on this. Great job

[@RustBeltAuto]

Too bad it needed an engine... I tried.

[@brandonwashington6358]

What exactly failed on the motor?? Mines doing the same thing even after doing everything I could for timing

[@RustBeltAuto]

@@brandonwashington6358 never got to tear it down, but I think it wiped out a cam journal.

[@christianlinson]

​@@RustBeltAutoYou mentioned at 13:36 that the camshaft moved. Any consequences from that? Is that to be avoided? Appreciate your input on this. Thanks!

[@RustBeltAuto]

@@christianlinson it's probably an interference engine, but you need to do something really stupid to bend a valve. No harm was done, and it was moved back.

[@madmanmechanic8847]

Hey dude you don't realize how much you helped me with the crown vic. I was sweating bullets on installing the oil pump I had visions of the bolts dropping down into the oil pan from the oil pick up tube. Your trick with the needle nose pliers saved my ass! I had to use a putty knife under the bolt to hold it into place after I put it in with the needle nose then hold the putty knife in place while I took the needle nose and turned the bolt for the drives side It took me about 15 minutes to get the bolt started, Then I turned it with your needle nose trick . If I hadn't seen your video I would still be out there trying to figure out how to start the bolt on the drivers side. I have big fingers I am 6.2 about 290 plus hard to get my fat ass in there. You did a great thing and really helped me give yourself a pat on the back

[@RustBeltAuto]

You're welcome.

[@Beau-Gus]

I laughed so hard at the “noooo you trim. We Taiwan”😂

[@utube3805]

Thank you. The level of detail here and the effort you made are incredible. I will send you an email also. A lot of people were screwed with the mustang engine issues. Some dealers in the US would not even honor the warranties. Inferior engine parts and components Ford should take responsibility but the 2007-2008 bailout by the FED gave them excuses and absolution and left their customers high and dry

[@RustBeltAuto]

Its out of my hands. I did this to try to work around an engine teardown, or replacement. I did not fix the cause of the problem.

[@RustBeltAuto]

Or better yet, i may have fixed the cause by replacing the pump, but not the problem the cause created.

[@mediaguy4037]

It’s ford, what do you expect? The Ford Focus had a brutal transmission problem from the factory, and the 3.5/3.7 has an internal timing chain driven water pump that takes 14 hours to replace. Fix or repair daily!

[@charleswaynewright2042]

facts don't support what you're saying GM had problems in nearly every thing they sold Ford 6.0 diesel was a flop only it was so complicated only a trained technician could repair them you want to see the worst and best automobiles go to the scrap yard you see a car or truck less than 10 years old check the engine mustang's average is 15 an 20 years the V6 turbo EcoBoost is not a Ford engine its universal Chrysler and others. You will see the older Explorers their only problem was the price to repair timing chain in back of engine

[@utube3805]

I agree even their trained techs had trouble fixing most problems @@charleswaynewright2042

[@jasonschick7]

Awesome video! I plan on doing the same along with some cams and some top end work on my 06 GT. Ive done short blocks and etc. At work on hyundais but its always more scary on your own car! Going to start hoarding parts soon!

[@tommys5749]

Wow, to think, it only took you 33 minutes and 28 seconds to do all that.

[@DJDinaggio]

The underlying problem was probably worn rod/main bearings.

[@mrmustangman]

always change the pick up tube if you replace the pump on these.... ....but that pump was clogged up and who knows for how long it was like that.... engine was starved to death. change your oil, people.!!!!!!!!!!

[@spelunkerd]

What an interesting project. Thanks for the honest discussion at the end, worth thinking about. As engines age, oil pressure falls, and the weak links are the VCT actuators. I wonder if there is a way to mechanically lock VCT actuators into a neutral position, kinda like dialing the clock back to an old style engine. Presumably it would require a reflash to shut up complaints from the pcm.

[@sk8n854]

The valve cover comes off fine with the battery still in it.

[@livalittle100]

I appreciate the honesty at the end.

[@RustBeltAuto]

Thank you. I learned a long time ago that honesty actually fixes problems. People that bullshit everyone, just propagate more bullshit. That makes horrible technicians.

[@andrewk778]

I was thinking engine stand. Thank you for sharing.

[@RustBeltAuto]

Live and learn.

[@egmac100]

First of all, excellent video! I have a 2005 GT Saleen with only 70k on it. I bought it with 55k so I don't know about previous care. This Summer, in SoCal, it started with the typical cam phaser chatter at idle when real hot. Tap on the gas, evens out (sound familiar?). Turns out, I was a quart low and using 5W20 (per the manual BTW). Simply topping off with 5W30 resolved, for now, the VCT rattle. Watching this video, and others, makes me nervous as a whore in church. We all know that low oil pressure can cause the dreaded cam phaser (VCT) issue. Replacing the cam phasers, solenoids & sensors is only a bandaid for the low oil pressure. You just proved that a better pump can't restore pressure if there is a leak in the system; your just moving more oil. There has to be a systemic wear bearing (journal) that is between the pump and the right VCT solenoid causing this issue with 3 valve 5.4 and 4.6l engines. Once again, great video. Thank you.

[@RustBeltAuto]

You might be half right, and should consider this video as a blunder. However the owner is driving the snot out of it this way for now. The only other option by Ford was to replace the engine. You need to take into consideration that I never fixed, and found the actual problem. I think I know what it is, but for now, it's only an assumption. Ford, in their infinite wisdom made it unworthy to repair, or shall I say for better words, their idea of repair is "replace engine". I'm glad for you that a single quart of oil made such a big difference. Most cars made by others, that take a quart or two less oil total, consider a quart low, a normal operating level. These VVT systems on these cars are wrong on so many levels, I don't even know how people passed it beyond the engineering trial phase. The trucks, and crown vics used in things like cop cars that do not have this system are excellent.

[@egmac100]

@@RustBeltAuto As lemon owners ( this was a $70k one), we need to make due with what we got. First thing, I'm installing is a real oil pressure gauge. As that OEM sensor only has two wires on it, it's most likely, as you said, a switch. Secondly, don't skimp on maintenance people. And thirdly, use 5W30 (minimum) synthetic. I believe the 2005 was first 3 valve (my car) and Ford redesigned the phaser in following years. Do NOT use after market phasers. Not sure if there is enough valve-head clearance if there is complete VCT failure which is what you are going to get with any after market part even if "racing" is in their name. It's all bullshit, we are on our own. Thank you for your wisdom. Out.

[@RustBeltAuto]

@@egmac100 to me when people say "do not use aftermarket" is a misnomer. Some aftermarket manufacturers try very hard to make something that is better then factory. It would be more prudent to tell people what not to get from experience.

[@egmac100]

@@RustBeltAuto Just be careful with the cam phasers.

[@mediaguy4037]

@@RustBeltAuto My 2011 Crown Victoria police interceptor has the 2v 4.6 and it's a bulletproof tank!

[@kamryn7496]

I found out why mine sounded like it had lifter tick it was due to a bad roller follower it messed up the stock cam to sounded like lifter tick I replaced both cams 24 new lash adjusters 24 new roller followers oem timing chain guides tensioners phasers an a meling high volume oil pump an that solved the issue 1000 miles later the engine is nice an quiet still. I think them tensioners that you used did need a seal to hold oil pressure I think oem is best way to go I wonder what would of happened if you would of just locked out the phasers with a lockout kit

[@RustBeltAuto]

He ended up having someone else replace the engine. I would have liked to tear that one down, just to see what was going on. My assumption would be worn cam journals on this one, but do not know for sure.

[@kamryn7496]

@@RustBeltAuto I’m lucky 1200 miles later mine stayed quiet

[@44dreadzone]

Lmao the Taiwan imitation killed me

[@RustBeltAuto]

Hopefully no one from Taiwan watches this. They might get offended.

[@wolleysegap9740]

Right ? That had me rolling. Rusty is the man !

[@kriszellers9718]

Love the accent while working

[@moneymakin_ro9486]

Wish i had a mechanic like you because the mechanics over here think their is nothing wrong with my timing yet it sounds kind of rattly by valve cover

[@RustBeltAuto]

This engine blew up about a month ago. Whatever I did, wasn't a fix. Hydraulics can make some noise. If there is no check engine light, run it till it blows, and replace it. It works that way by Ford design.

[@erito23gamingpower99]

I am doing this to my mustang since last week, mine broke the orange plastic pieces.

[@willlink7971]

Im doing the cam and timing chain definitely helped me out

[@freon1971]

Dude...i needed that, you are the man👍

[@ThePasta22]

great video! any chance you've replaced the oil pan on the same car? we'd like to see that if possible. thank you!

[@RustBeltAuto]

My sources say no.

[@livalittle100]

I've been waiting for this video ever since the first one with this car!! Thanks.

[@RustBeltAuto]

I deleted that video, and just added it to this one.

[@gunnarstetson7346]

You probably dont care but if you guys are bored like me atm you can stream pretty much all of the latest series on kaldrostream. Have been watching with my gf for the last few weeks :)

[@leonidasheath438]

@Gunnar Stetson Yea, I've been watching on Instaflixxer for months myself :)

[@richardpope9985]

At 14:19, I thought, what in the hell ???? A 6.8 mm wrench ?!?!?!? oh,oh, ohhhh. 6 point, 8mm wrench. LOL ! !

[@truthsmiles]

Simply outstanding video, thank you! Long shot question: As I understand it the oil pressure “switch” on these cars closes at 6psi, which I agree is far too low to be useful. I know I can add an aftermarket gauge, but I’d rather just install a switch that closes at 20-25psi instead. I’ve looked for specs on motorcraft senders but can’t seem to find any actual pressures listed. Do you happen to know of such a switch I can install on a 2005 mustang 4.6 that will work and warn me at a more useful pressure? Thank you in advance!

[@RustBeltAuto]

If you could find one about 12psi, that might be doable. It would all be trial, and error. Maybe you could look them up in a Standard book or something. 4psi is pretty normal hot idle pressure for a lot of engines.

[@truthsmiles]

@@RustBeltAuto Thanks for the reply! Wow 4psi seems really low? We have the exact same sound/issue on my son’s 2005 Mustang GT (172k), and we were all set to go after the timing components as you did, but after watching your video to the end we decided to attach a gauge… cold was 70psi, but dropped to exactly 18psi before the loud banging started. Saddened, but following your advice we changed from 5W-20 to 10W-40, which raised the hot idle pressure to 22psi. Not fantastic in my opinion but the banging is completely gone now at least. Of course we discussed the inevitability of a full rebuild, but we installed a “T” in the sending unit port and got a proper gauge so he can keep a better eye on it. I still think it would work just as well to install a 20psi switch to trigger the low oil pressure warning on these cars.. but since I don’t know what would work we just went with the gauge. For anyone else reading, I shall try to return to this thread to report how long the 10W-40 redneck “repair” worked. I’m hoping we caught it soon enough and it lasts at least a couple years but we shall see haha. I’m interested to try and figure out whether an “in frame” full bearing replacement is feasible or even possible. If so, we might do that this summer if the pressure seems to be holding. Good luck to everyone else with this issue!

[@nike12000haha]

i like your video but that whole having to cut the chain guide is a perfect example why you ALWAYS get dealer parts for timing!

[@SupercarBuilt]

My 06 GT has also been having a slight ticking, not as aggressive as your video. It's in the front left. thinking it was the chains. I have about 180k miles, I've read all the comments and replies. Apparently, it blew up!? I had 5w-20 in it and put it 5w - 30 synthetic in it to top it off because it was running low. My mechanic said it would be about $3500 to do the whole fix with labor and all. Or I could potentially figure it out myself with OEM parts and do it for around $1700, I don't know how much it costed you but I'm sure it wasn't to far off of that. Would it be worth just doing the whole swap because of the higher miles? Or should I just start out with the rockers and followers (not 100% on the technical terms)? I did have very fine metal shavings in the oil. What would you recommend? This is gonna be my car for a while, and my limit is about $2000 on this. So I need to know what's worth it. Also, when i was trying to figure out what the sound was, I did take the left valve cover off and actually turned the engine on and let it run just for a minute. The chain before the engine was turned on it was loose, and after it was very tight, it stayed decently tight. Don't know if that's normal. When I'm driving, my car will really have a problem at low idle, and it will die in the middle of the road. But everything else stays on, so I know it's not the alternator or battery. But it will also backfire and make all kinds of noises, haha. I did find oil in with the spark plugs, probably because I let it spray oil everywhere when I turned it on. Do you think that would be causing the random shut offs and backfires?? Somebody help, man. I'm driving a death trap, nobody has a clue what to do about it haha

[@KILLzone_565]

The whole part from 20:58 to 21:20 had me rolling 😂😂😂

[@kevenvillalobos9562]

Did yours do a free. Spin after a couple turns ? Couldn’t tell since it was fast forwarded please respond lol

[@RustBeltAuto]

@@kevenvillalobos9562 don't understand the question.

[@caseylear4134]

Is there an update on the blue mustang? After 4 years how did it end up?

[@RustBeltAuto]

The victim bought a used engine.

[@kennethhodge9637]

I my friend am with you. I've worked on plenty of these 4.6 or 5.4s and they are junk. My boss wants us to do chains and phasers in these trucks...he doesn't get it.

[@RustBeltAuto]

I'm sure all that extra work would look real good on your bosses pie chart. I will not suck myself into a job like that again. If the oil pressure isn't horrible, I would maybe go a different route.

[@kennethhodge9637]

@@RustBeltAuto I would have a real good guess that these chain failures are oil pressure related or all the debris they put through the motor when the guides breakdown wears out bearings and such. Killing oil pressure.

[@RustBeltAuto]

@@kennethhodge9637 oil filters only filter particles larger than about 30 microns. Anything smaller can wear an engine. There is a lot of steel parts that wear in this, that are harder than bearings, and aluminum journals. There is no magnet on the oil plug, or anywhere in that engine, and people are made to believe they can go a lot longer than they should on oil changes. That would be my argument.

[@kennethhodge9637]

@@RustBeltAuto sounds about right. Sooo many times I see guys who abuse these things cause they had an old 5.7 or 7.3 idi thinking these new engines are like the old. No way bud way tighter tolerances... But I don't buy em or drive em I just fix em.

[@BarnStangz]

@@RustBeltAuto I'll never understand why people don't change oil sooner. I mean, it's a hell of a lot cheaper to change the oil then to replace a GOT DAMN engine!

[@noahhughes7980]

great video thanks

[@H.H.Tuned.]

What do you think about the Ford performance high volume oil pump

[@RustBeltAuto]

I like the fact that the pump has a sturdier backing that does not warp as easy under pressure, but honestly, now that I tried to band-aid this car, I think if you believe you need one, there is probably something wrong with your engine. Did they come in any factory vehicles, for any reason?

[@sk8n854]

When the cams moved after letting the tension off the chain, that didn't hurt the valves or anything? I've seen other videos of people putting vice grips on the cam or removing rocker arms to prevent valve to piston contact.

[@RustBeltAuto]

Be careful. You usually need to do something really stupid to bend a valve.

[@sk8n854]

​@@RustBeltAutook. I did the same as you. Released the tension and the passenger side cam moved back about an inch or so. I was just worried that could have damaged something but then I saw the same thing happened to you. Everything else was lined up at tdc and I marked where the cam was with a paint pen so I'll just move it an inch back to where it was when I put the new chain on with everything realigned. I haven't spun anything else besides the inch the cam moved when I released the tension.

[@RustBeltAuto]

@@sk8n854 it happens. Just so long as you don't turn the crank, or cam, and start whaking a valve on it, you should be okay. Every time I have seen a tech bend a valve, and claim he didn't do anything stupid, he did something stupid.

[@jamesabram6939]

Do anybody know what is going on with that car my car is doing the same thing just got the timing chain fix and now my mechanics and we need to change the oil pump I'm tired of putting money in this s***

[@RustBeltAuto]

I put straight 50w in it. Assuming it has a camshaft journal that is wiped out, but don't know for sure. Surprisingly enough this guy is still driving it.

[@justin6409]

I've got the 4.0 v6 and have loss of oil pressure at idle, if I bring the engine rpms up, pressure comes back up and oil light goes out. I suspect same thing, chains rattles real loud too.

[@RustBeltAuto]

Suspect oil pressure switch first.

[@justin6409]

@@RustBeltAuto I'll check that but that rattle gets pretty loud when I loose pressure.

[@RustBeltAuto]

@@justin6409sorry, if it's rattling, it probably has an actual loss of pressure. Check oil, maybe try thicker oil. Some ford lovers try 10w40.

[@justin6409]

@@RustBeltAuto maybe Ill try that, I mean the engine is pretty much shot at this point. Debating on buying a copart V8 manual and moving everything over to my v6. I used to use just strait 30 weight long time ago, and it's rated for 30 weight.

[@situationsshow1537]

Amazing

[@mooosestang]

Could you not have put in higher viscosity oil to lock back those cam phasers? Should increase oil pressure right.

[@RustBeltAuto]

Higher weight oil does not circulate, or run out as fast.

[@mooosestang]

I guess i should have saved my question till the end, lol! Great video man. So the new pump didn't actually increase the pressure?

[@mooosestang]

@@RustBeltAuto I know, but it will increase oil pressure if low oil pressure were indeed the problem. I bet that engine runs a long time on 20w50. How many miles was on that motor? I ran 5w30 in my 2006 gt after the initial oil change because 5w20 only came about due to cafe standards. Ford doesn't really care if i get 300k miles out of my motor. They just need that cafe credit.

[@RustBeltAuto]

@@mooosestang the work I did was for nothing. It worked for a very short time. He put a used engine in it.

[@antonioalto6091]

really good, thank you. really tank you.

[@ryanv7195]

Very interesting video! I have a 05 mustang 4.6 l. So far no problems except I need to change the shitty plugs that break. I'm wondering what would be your guess what's wrong with the engine. It sounds great after you fix it but you said it got loud again. 8 wonder what else could be a problem?

[@RustBeltAuto]

I have a feeling it wiped out cam journals or something. That fix was pretty much a waste of time. It has a new engine now.

[@ryanv7195]

@@RustBeltAuto thanks for the information and the reply. Looked like a great repair..I had hoped it had worked with all the effort you put in. Thanks for the video.

[@RustBeltAuto]

@@ryanv7195 if it was mine, I probably would have done a teardown, but when you pay people, it is more cost effective to replace it. I would have liked to figure it out. Thanks for watching.

[@neigelevelyn6356]

Hi I have the 2007 4.0 v6 engine my primary jackshaft tensioner break I’m just try see if I can replaces Jet that or get a new engine

[@RustBeltAuto]

That's the 4.0 with a rear timing chain? You gonna need some skills for that. They can bend valves too.

[@neigelevelyn6356]

@@RustBeltAuto yes it is

[@neigelevelyn6356]

@@RustBeltAuto I put the part I’m try asked about on profile pic I saw ppl saying if it break you cAn still drive but can’t you no races the engine till I can get the engine or it replaces

[@RustBeltAuto]

@@neigelevelyn6356 doesn't your jackshft drive the rear timing chain in that thing?

[@neigelevelyn6356]

@@RustBeltAuto I no sure

[@shotishoti3261]

Is that a same engine as a ford explorer 4.6 3v? Please answer me if this kit fits explorer 4.6 3v engine

[@RustBeltAuto]

You need to look parts up using your make model and year.

[@MustangGuy1996]

16:00 you didn’t wanna put a high volume pump on?

[@nathanmorales5803]

Hey man I hope u see this I really do 😭 but I replaced all timing components, timing chain , tensioners cam phasers vvt solenoids , sensors and I’m still hearing a rattle but the oil gauge is showing that it’s good so I’m not sure , HELP my car would rattle then start knocking like there in the video I’m thinking it’s the oil pump not enough pressure for the phasers or the solenoid ?

[@RustBeltAuto]

This guy ended up putting an engine in it. The gauge is actually a switch. It lies. You probably have an issie where the oil is not making it up to the cam phasers. I would have liked to tear his engine down to see why, but no go. Suspect wiped out cam journals. That would be my guess.

[@nathanmorales5803]

@@RustBeltAutoso what do u recommend I do, purchase a new oil pump ?

[@RustBeltAuto]

@@nathanmorales5803 the dealer would probably tell you to get an engine. I tried to fix this one, but the cause of the problem was still in there. Don't know what it was either. People put a lot of band aids in these things. After all the work I did, I honestly don't know what the real fix would be on the particular engine I was working on.

[@nathanmorales5803]

@@RustBeltAuto that’s too bad :( i have vids posted my first and most recent video are the symptoms but I replaced all timing components this only happens when motor is nice and hot could it be not enough oil pressure getting into the phasers? causing the rattle then knock

[@RustBeltAuto]

@@nathanmorales5803 it's more like oil volume. Thicker oil might fill the gaps.

[@jasongonzalez7775]

Im have p0018 and p0022 can you help ?

[@RustBeltAuto]

is it rattling?

[@nfsking4826]

What did you do with the passenger side? The cam flipped a bit away. Did u left him where it flipped?

[@RustBeltAuto]

He ended up buying an engine. This job didnt fix it for very long at all.

[@nfsking4826]

@@RustBeltAuto weĺl Thanks for that quick answer m8

[@eegg6954]

@@RustBeltAuto Chinese timing set.

[@loganmoore8908]

I have a 05 4.6l GT with 240k miles and it just started making a slight ticking noise which is coming from the passenger side valve cover which makes me think its the timing chain. My car has great oil pressure and there's no metal shavings in the oil what would you recommend?

[@RustBeltAuto]

Slight ticking=drive it.

[@loganmoore8908]

@@RustBeltAuto Lmao thanks man I just started getting paranoid since it has 240k miles and the timing chains are supposed to be replaced at 120k. So I called ford for a quote on the timing chains replacement and they wanted $3200.

[@AirplaneJunkie82]

Is the noise coming from the front of the engine where the timing chain and cam phaser are or further back under the actual valve cover? On the 4.6 3V a slight ticking usually means the roller bearing on a cam follower/rocker arm is going bad. It's around a $20 part and easier fix than redoing the timing chain job but given the amount of miles on your engine i'd say you should do a timing job like this and replace all the rocker arms and lash adjusters anyway...at least if you want to keep it from grenading. The 4.6 engines can last a super long time as long as you maintain the valvetrain. If you ignore the rocker arm, it will seize up, the camshaft lobe on that valve will grind down to a nub, the valve will drop down and then the piston will make contact with it on upstroke.

[@MustangGuy1996]

@@AirplaneJunkie82 why do the rocker arms seem to love to get stuck in the first place?

[@madmanmechanic8847]

Thanks for a great video ! I have to tear down my crown vic again I put all Motor craft chain and guides and tensioners in it and it lasted about 40 000 miles and started making noise again I have to tear this all apart . This sucks you have the best video on how to do this job on you tube pat yourself on the back sorry your job took a shit what happened did it straighten out?

[@RustBeltAuto]

He's driving it. Im not calling what i did a fix by any means. 50w oil is working in it for now. He will get an engine when this one goes.

[@madmanmechanic8847]

@@RustBeltAuto When somebody gives you a complement you could of at least said thank you! I don't usually give them out for that reason.

[@RustBeltAuto]

@@madmanmechanic8847 I didn't realize it was a compliment. This is a very controversial video.

[@madmanmechanic8847]

@@RustBeltAuto Look at the first five words of my first reply. What does it read?

[@RustBeltAuto]

@@madmanmechanic8847 you're welcome. Thanks for watching.

[@mikehupp2913]

Hello if you working mustang remember have to use ford faziers only meling oil pump vct and roller rocker i done lots other faziers brand dont work or last you replace one of 2 faziers but not ford your didnt complete the work hv a 05 mustanf has 450 k origin bottom end and still running great

[@HVilleTech]

Nice video

[@redphantome737]

Yeah well you tried. Lots a flipping work. You did make the dealership look like they don't giving a flying flock about the customer.

[@RustBeltAuto]

They like to sell engines. That's all I got out of this. The guy is still driving the heck out of the thing.

[@mediaguy4037]

We no mustang! We mota scootah!

[@erito23gamingpower99]

How much time takes to do all of this?

[@RustBeltAuto]

I dont know.

[@3vReanimated]

If you take your time, it's about a 12-14 hour job realistically.

[@alonsoalonso994]

If your car still has good oil pressure and no codes would you recommend doing this as a preventative measure?

[@RustBeltAuto]

Absolutely not.

[@alonsoalonso994]

@@RustBeltAuto why so?

[@RustBeltAuto]

@@alonsoalonso994 if it works, dont fix it.

[@alonsoalonso994]

@@RustBeltAuto what would you recommend doing for cleaning injectors?

[@RustBeltAuto]

@@alonsoalonso994 bg 44k 4 pack kit. You need a pressure pot to run the car on it.

[@javierl4779]

Hey after , getting the whole timing setup done , I turned the , crank like you did at 21:51 just before that , and my timing marks didn't line up . But yours did the same is this normal ??

[@RustBeltAuto]

Does it run, and not have any codes?

[@javierl4779]

@@RustBeltAuto I'm not sure , my timing marks were lined up but after , I turned the crank , too make sure it all worked fine they didn't line up after that

[@javierl4779]

@@RustBeltAuto the cam lobes and the camshaft , marks are where they need to be , I think this is normal ??

[@RustBeltAuto]

@@javierl4779 sounds like it.

[@javierl4779]

@@RustBeltAuto yeah the only thing that's off is , the actual , marks on the chain , that's not linining up , but , they say that's normal for all timing chains , . It takes like so many turns too get it back too line up

[@eegg6954]

Dude! Thanks for the video. Why on God's Green Earth would you even think of installing a $70 Chinese timing kit? Only need that car for another month maybe?. ..

[@RustBeltAuto]

Almost everything is Chinese now. Most of this junk is the same stuff in a different box. I just got a Motorcraft wiring harness yesterday from the dealer. Guess where it came from.

[@eegg6954]

@@RustBeltAuto On this timing stuff, Motorcraft still makes the guides, phasers, solenoids and tensions in USA. You pay, but you only do the job once.

[@RustBeltAuto]

@@eegg6954 but the job was already done once, so technically, that's twice. 😝

[@sabrom]

20/50w is safe for the 4.6 requiring 5/30w from factory?

[@RustBeltAuto]

The factory oil was not working. Could try 10w/40. I think using the word safe, or unsafe would be the wrong way to describe things. As far as I know, an engine is not a safety item.

[@joshcade918]

Actually the 4.6 3v recommends 5w-20 from factory... But last summer I caught that hot idle PSI dipping into the low teens. Switched to 5w-30 and now it holds above 20 psi idle. So thats factory oil spec pressure read on a 150k engine that has yet to have similar symptoms or DTC's. A loose spark plug was the "engine noise" that got me to hook up an actual gauge!

[@jamesabram6939]

@@joshcade918 Do anybody know what is going on with that car my car is doing the same thing just got the timing chain fix and now my mechanics and we need to change the oil pump I'm tired of putting money in this s***

[@dakotas3vandxj506]

@@jamesabram6939 ever find your issue?

[@fivestarhemi2877]

@ 3:51 that is EXACTLY how my 2010 4.0 mustang sounds like😦😦 i have codes p0301 p0106 & p01336 i sputters like crazy. Maby its not the whole engine after all. “Help” ?

[@RustBeltAuto]

Change the oil with 10w-40 first.

[@fivestarhemi2877]

@@RustBeltAuto what will this do?

[@RustBeltAuto]

@@fivestarhemi2877 It will add oil pressure/volume, if it has worn parts that bleed it off from internal leakage. Sometimes the cam phasers break too. In my case, it had an oil volume/pressure issue. This system is horrible.

[@fivestarhemi2877]

@@RustBeltAuto great i will try the oil change first, the does not knock or tick very badly, it juts sputters🤷🏻‍♂️ i might do a video of it and put it here so you can see what i am talking about. In the meantime time thanks 👍

[@fivestarhemi2877]

@@RustBeltAuto kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z6bIloeFmNR4i5I Sorry about my bad spelling.

[@prevost8686]

The journals that the cams ride on in the heads wear. Anything other than genuine Ford VVT sprockets are garbage.

[@RustBeltAuto]

I believe you. Already had the thought, but never put it into practice. Thank you!

[@hbodro4064]

We're u located at

[@erito23gamingpower99]

😭😭😭😭 i having those codes on my mustang gt 2005 😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭 and it only has 32k miles run

[@SantaCllaws]

Hah I feel you, my 05 gt has 48k and I'm just diagnostic it to be this after the pressure test, get this 10psi at idle or 2000rpm.

[@wolleysegap9740]

Excellent job Rusty as always. However why didn't Ford recall their shit motor and THEY put a new one in. Total junk you buy these days that are supposed to be brand new.

[@RustBeltAuto]

Recalls from Ford usually only occur when they loose a lawsuit in court.

[@davntelisha19]

Good fuxking job 2👍 you did a great job keep it up enjoy the video

[@Super6-Four]

You might as well do the timing chain lol jesus they really made this tough

[@Super6-Four]

SCratch that. Might as well rebuild the entire engine hahaha

[@RustBeltAuto]

@@Super6-Four if there is a next time, I will.

[@charleswaynewright2042]

Great video didn't want to imply you would rough up a customer my venting was a result of experience locally his deeds have done him in now, he did get rich on his way to the bottom

[@RustBeltAuto]

The life of a mechanic is not an easy task. They tend to get a lot of things wrong. If this was a perfect world, you wouldn't be here. That car wouldn't be here either. All the places I have worked have mechanics working there that have an average comback rate of over 20%. This is the norm. You pay for that. Happy trails.

[@BarnStangz]

This is the same engine is the old Police Crown Vics right? I've seen some cop cars with obscene miles and they seem good still... Maybe fleet maintenance? I've heard of people using white lithium grease to pack in a pump for priming, have you ever heard of that? LOL! "Good enough for government work" I've used that line before, it's perfect! LOL! NO YOU TRIM!!!!! TAIWAN #1!!!! Nice to hear you explain stuff at the end. Sounds like the best course of action is to NEVER buy one of these used either! You getting enough sleep there bud? Watching too many late night infomercials??? OKAY BYE!

[@RustBeltAuto]

As far as I know, Crown Vic's never had a 3 valve with VCT. White lithium is bad. It doesn't pass through a filter very well at all. Also, Packing a rotary vane oil pump with Vaseline, or white lithium is not a good idea at all. It doesn't work the same way as the old gear type pumps.

[@BarnStangz]

@@RustBeltAuto oh okay, maybe it was a gear pump I heard about the grease. Thanks for clearing that up. And also with the Crown Vic.

[@mediaguy4037]

Crown victoria has the 4.6, but it's a different design. Mine is still kicking ass at 103,xxx miles

[@barbadianx616]

wow, so that’s what you look like? lol!!

[@whywouldtheydothat4808]

Da fuk were those comments about taiwan and korea about lol

[@RustBeltAuto]

That's where the parts were manufactured.

[@eegg6954]

Their parts are garbage.

[@charleswaynewright2042]

Professional mechanic, you did $300 worth of work prob. Changed 4 or 5 time's that, Man most likely paid for kit? Monkey says Sir you got to bring it back so we can do the other side, Victim ask price Monkey says I tried to save you Money. Other side, double work Double price. 3 or 4 times later Man Never seen again. Later Monkey list 4sale Super sharp excellent condition Mustang GT previous owner spent 5Gs on car forced to sale lost his job, wife left with the kids

[@RustBeltAuto]

The price is wrong bob. Amazing story though.

[@wolleysegap9740]

Ford is a "frolicking liar". Lol....😄

[@erito23gamingpower99]

😭 fu** my mustang

[@RustBeltAuto]

just put some 10w40 in it, and see what happens.