2008-2010 Infiniti G37 Battery Replacement

[@jenniferlara1386]

Omg thank you! I just changed my car battery (on my own) but with your help! Thanks!

[@RandyEllefson]

Good idea to run the car first before re-assembling all that stuff :)

[@zoner__]

Forget all the comments on how bad the OEM batteries are. Just changed my 2010 today 3-15-17. Tip: spray a little WD40 on the bottom side of each retainer clip and they will come off easier.

[@GEARMOAUTO]

+zoner Thanks for the comment and the tips!

[@Kman.]

@@GEARMOAUTO ... I'll do one better than his reply:-). I've got an 2006 model and it looks like I finally will need to replace my battery this week due to simply a dead cell. This is the August 30th 2018. The car only has 63,000 miles on it. I am looking to find out how we get that thing out of there if that's what I need because Advance Auto probably will not replace it for free LOL.

[@Midwest-hx8wf]

The OEM Nissan battery is 575 CCA......i just bought a new battery with 640 CCA.......the correct size is 35

[@TakeThis_L]

I have 24f from the m37, 700 CCA

[@Romeowilson2323]

My factory battery was 700 cca at 24f

[@DOORBELLBOY11]

Always remove the negative terminal first 😂😂😂😂 you could have short your electrical

[@DopeBoysofatlanta]

Does this apply for g35’s as well?

[@chefgiovanni]

Grest video. My OEM battery is going on 10 years. Cheers !

[@GEARMOAUTO]

+chefgiovanni Thanks

[@alvarochagoyen]

there is no need of reprogramming the keys or any other electric issue replacing the battery? Im afraid of not being able to switch on the car again XD . Only just change the battery and go? is it really plug and play? thanks!!

[@michaelpark5681]

You have to reset the power windows.

[@jeffreyreinsch373]

To reset your power windows. With the car running (I find having the engine running is the most reliable way to do this), Make sure the window is all the way up first. Then push the window button down and hold it down for about 10 seconds after the window is all the way down. Release the window button. Now you will hold the window button up for about 10 seconds after the window is all the way up. Now release the window button. To test, push the window button down once and the window should go all the way down. Pull the window button up once and the window should go all the way up. Hope this helps.

[@unknown-nx7bn]

@@jeffreyreinsch373what do u do if the window stuck down and wont go up? everything is works before the battery was changed but after I replaced the battery my driver side window wont go up at all, now it’s stuck all the way down. Please help!!!!

[@jdcapps21]

I'm about to do this in 5 degree weather. What a horrible fucking design.

[@GEARMOAUTO]

+CappsJD ya i agree its not the easiest one.

[@karanveerkahlon3987]

Lol just did this in -30 weather, don’t cry

[@joeef]

doing this in 110 f don’t cry

[@jdcapps21]

@@joeef would rather do this in 110*F temps than 5*F temps.

[@jdcapps21]

@@karanveerkahlon3987 Antarctica must be wild

[@niren4819]

Good video, I just got my battery out. The design is so dumb with all the plastic hoses and angle with the hood to take it out No wonder Tesla rethought everything

[@hyperliz2]

Super helpful how to video. Thank-you..... Everything on or about this "Japanese engineer brain" designed vehicle is counter- intuitive.....argh

[@Hollowseed1]

It's not really the right battery.. You should try to make sure that the *Cold Cranking Amps, CCA* and the *Reserve Capacity, RC* numbers stay the same.. Your old one was *CCA 600* and *RC 110* however, the new one is *CCA 530* and *RC 90*..

[@Hollowseed1]

*Cold cranking amps:* This can be thought of as the power output used to start a cold engine. The number of cold cranking amps you need depends on your vehicle and where you live, specifically how cold it is where you live. The two factors are that the colder an engine is, the more power it takes to turn the engine over to get it started. It has all that cold, sluggish oil to contend with. The other factor is that the chemical reaction in the car battery that creates electrical energy is less efficient in the cold. So the colder it gets, more power is needed, but the available power drops. So if you live where it’s cold, you need a car battery with more cold cranking amps than you do where its moderate or hot. You should always get at least as many cold cranking amps as the manufacturer recommends, but may want to upgrade if you live where it gets real cold. An important note: Batteries may also list the Cranking Amps - CA - number. It is the Cold Cranking Amps - or CCA - that is the important number here. CCA is the number to use in your comparisons. Now with all this talk of cold temperatures, it’s important to note that heat is the real enemy of long battery life. In other words, the damage that’s done over the hot summer months shows up with the increased demands on the battery when the weather turns cold. *Reserve capacity:* This is a measurement of the number of minutes of reserve power the battery has at a given load. The number is more important these days because of parasitic drain. Parasitic drain is the battery energy that’s used when the key is off. So, the power drawn by the security system, the remote start system, even the power the computers require to maintain their memory. Reserves are also needed when you make very short trips. You’re not driving long enough for the battery to recover the energy it used to start the engine. So go with the minimum recommended by your manufacturer and upgrade if you need more. Talk with your parts or service advisor about options. If you need more from your battery, a larger capacity battery may be called for.

[@GEARMOAUTO]

Hollowseed1 Thanks for the comment! And for the great information. This one was a weird one, my parts guy brought the one with the correct cca and rc however it was significantly off size and I had to stretch the cables to make it fit, since I am in California and it doesnt get very cold in Sacramento we decide this would be the best battery possible at the time of the job. Yes it is slightly lower cca then the one installed but we couldent find the info needed to tell if the one installed or the new one was the actual correct cca and rc. The car has been running fine though and no problems have came up. Good eye on the battery rateing though thats the kinda stuff a good technician has to look out for constantly. Thanks for watching!

[@GodsArmyOnEarth]

Hey, just read your comment and i saw you're located in Sacramento. I am located in Sacramento near Sac State. Maybe you can install my battery for me and i can pay you?

[@GEARMOAUTO]

Dreon Barlett Thanks for the offer! I see this comment is a week old im sure you got it handled by now. If i was in the area then sure but im. not close to sac state at all.

[@JMDirect]

Thx! Helped a lot!

[@GEARMOAUTO]

+Joe Maldonado Thanks for the comment!

[@davidcurry6968]

That’s the trick