2009/10 TOYOTA AYGO CLUTCH REPLACEMENT

[@939driver]

Nice video! For clutch kits do you also recommend a Valeo kit next to LUK and Sachs? Cheers

[@TEAMR4ULTV]

Valeo Clutch kits are not too bad their ok. On some occasions I bought LUK only to find it has a valeo clutch on some cars they are OE

[@939driver]

@@TEAMR4ULTV alright thanks man!

[@geordiejones2]

Great clip well explained thanks R4UL TV

[@TEAMR4ULTV]

No worries thanks for watching really appreciate

[@dawbool9552]

Very good video! Please tell me, what's the approximate weight of the gearbox?

[@TEAMR4ULTV]

I really dont know that but get a friend to give you a hand

[@davidfoster9013]

Hi how long dose it take to do a clutch on these cars thanks dave Great video

[@TEAMR4ULTV]

Thanks for watching really appreciate it. To be honest I can do them in about 3hrs maybe less. But if your doing it for the first time it might take you more longer

[@davidfoster9013]

@@TEAMR4ULTV 0K THANKS VERY MUCH

[@Payns83]

Merci 👍

[@TEAMR4ULTV]

Thanks for watching really appreciate it

[@Payns83]

​@@TEAMR4ULTV 👍

[@mohamedmeskine4678]

Thanks man

[@TEAMR4ULTV]

Thanks for watching really appreciate it

[@littletavy420]

How many bell housing bolts are there in total?

[@clintonqweku2101]

I have problems with the same vehicle but when you change the gear lever it does move D its seen on the dashboard us N with selecting

[@Xandao-jn7tm]

hello tell me something my clutch is high and normal is it adjustable?

[@TEAMR4ULTV]

I dont think they are adjustable

[@സൈക്കോപുണ്യാളൻ]

R u mr clutch employe???

[@TEAMR4ULTV]

No am not. But clutches are my speciality, thanks for watching really appreciate it

[@EppingForest304]

👍

[@TEAMR4ULTV]

Thanks for watching really appreciate it. Thanks for your support.

[@stevenjordan8875]

Cannot believe driveshaft oil seals weren’t replaced for new items

[@TEAMR4ULTV]

Hi thanks for watching really appreciate it. As for the driveshaft seal it's not a hard job so if its goes in the future I'll replace it.

[@alexandrumoldoveanu2062]

Is a a manual gearbox or a semiautomatic gearbox?

[@TEAMR4ULTV]

Thanks for watching really appreciate it. This one Is s full manual gear box

[@jamesward5721]

"Why" these go through clutches for fun - often just wrecking the clutch center while not having any wear to speak of on the friction material - is due to the utter pish they use in the master/slave/pipework to them System - have a delve into the master cylinder - it's a crappy plastic plunger in a crappy plastic casing with a crappy plastic push-rod. They use 1 teensy tiny seal to keep pressure - nothing more than a boggo O ring. Imagine a syringe with more rubbish seals & you're getting the gist - I.E Crap. . Then they have the most convoluted, windy, gimpy path they run the pipe along - guaranteed to trap air and because it's so long, with such a weedy master cylinder, with such a tiny stroke capacity, you're almost guaranteed issues. Next "layer" of crappiness is the slave cylinder - firstly, they're crap - and secondly 3/4 of the crappy stroke does nothing - only on the last 1/4 does it actuate the clutch - which is almost guaranteed to be a compromised 1/4 of the stroke due to the utter sh**e master cylinders & the fact air will probably be present in the line to some extent - getting it all out requires you to be a Ninja Bleeder & most aren't. Then factor in that the geniuses didn't incorporate ANY hydraulic advantage to the system - the plunger in the master is the same bore-size as the plunger in the slave - I.E ignoring basic hydraulic principles, mainly so the utterly rubbish master cylinders don't burst, which they certainly would if asked to do anything beyond 1:1 as they are utterly rubbish. Did I mention they are rubbish? Next - you have to factor in the unutterably garbage bleed screws they use on the slaves. Junk. Total junk. If you open them even a crack, they are no longer air-tight at the base - so forget about suction/pressure bleeding because it ain't gonna work on these puppies - you will pop on your pipe & the crappy bleed screw will suck/blow air the minute you apply vacuum/pressure - the designer must never have come across a brake bleed screw before being asked to design these yokes. So you're back to using the teensy, tiny, weedy master cylinder to do the bleeding - which it is hopelessly undersized/underbuilt to be able to do, due to the sheer length of the stupidly routed line. Hence these eat clutches/have gear selection issues constantly & often come right out of the factory with rubbish clutch actions - plus they are a pita to do a clutch on, despite what people might tell you. Pretty much. In a nutshell.

[@jamesward5721]

Another "Fun" design feature that might catch you out is the feed to the master from the combined brake/clutch reservoir - if you pop the rubber feed pipe off the master, chances are you will be amazed at how little fluid will leak - often, none will. That's because the rubber pipe itself is airlocked as bubbles have accumulated at the stub it comes off the reservoir at - meaning no fluid is getting to the master. You clamp the rubber hose half-way, pop off the clip, pull it off the master .....and it's bone dry.. no fluid leaks. Well.. that's a problem right there before we start, Boss..

[@SemteVruchte]

You have too much time on your hands to type this whole story haha

[@jamesward5721]

@@SemteVruchte I type fast. :-)