2009-2014 Ford F-150 - How To Replace Bank 1 Cam Sensor

[@kyledefreitas89]

Thanks for the well done video. Just fixed my truck with a $15 part from Amazon and no more than 15 minutes of labor.

[@victorsmith6397]

Awesome! Helped me out alot! Done in 5 mins. Was about to pull the valve cover, following advise from the guy who sold me the part.

[@Canoneosmiami]

Thank u ,finally someone showed the symptoms,I had the same issue..

[@sierrafrancis2985]

God Bless you. Thought I was alone in this problem. Same symptoms.

[@92813justin]

You too! but read my description

[@Threewolfs-]

Thanks saved me money I didn’t have, overall cost me about $45 (20+ for the monitor at Amazon & 22 for the valve at Auto Zone) and twenty minutes (thanks to your vid). 👍🏻🤠

[@92813justin]

Threewolfs 45-70 You are welcome. I’m glad it worked out!

[@matthewandvik6478]

I have the same engine shaking. I'm heading to the auto parts store now! Thank you, sir.

[@mulkins2008]

Thank you! I didn’t know there were two. Already replaced one so now I’m stoked to replace the second to get it running

[@92813justin]

@@mulkins2008 good luck

[@jimjablonski8243]

I strongly suggest disconnecting the NEGATIVE side of the battery, not the positive side.

[@barryhawrysh3573]

thanks for the video, P0012 code showed up today. I will change it this weekend.

[@92813justin]

Did it work?

[@copykon]

my 2015 Ford F150 V8 same exact symptoms. I get P0018 (Bank two Sensor A) which i think is causing the P0300 misfires. It's been intermittent for a very long time. Your video helped me out, thumbs up.

[@camarofan95]

Had the exact same problem on my 07 F150. $21 part and the help of this video and its running better now. Thanks!! (I just hope it lasts)

[@92813justin]

Good luck! This fix worked for me for about a year and then I had other engine problems

[@Pr.2104]

I was even told it could probably be Injector issues so now I’m like these dang fords 😂

[@gmyck]

Thank you for the video. Same symptoms. Mine started occurring after I had my heating core was replaced (coolant leak). Had my spark plugs replaced as they had coolant on them. I ended up swapping out both sensors (after getting the right bank sensor error) after reading the prior comments below. Hopefully, this works or I'll end up spending $1,500+ when my mechanic takes off the top of the engine (which he has been reluctant to do) to repair whatever needs to be fixed .

[@j.w.8663]

I wonder why you got the P0012 code, when it was actually a sensor failure?? This is normally a different code for an electrical sensor failure issue, like P0340, P0344, P0345, P049.....

[@92813justin]

It ended up being all sorts of different problems from cam phasers failing and a rocker getting stuck and ruining the entire engine

[@jimmyjames50ful]

The crankshaft position sensor is in the left side transmission bell housing on a 2013 3.7l v6.

[@michaelbrowning2638]

Thank you very much sir...u just solved my exact problem that I was having with the whole running fine until I come to a stop and put in reverse to park...👍 replaced sensors and good to go no more issues

[@92813justin]

Michael Browning awesome. You are welcome. Keep an eye on your engine because in about 6 months after the fix, the phasers went bad and it was a whole mess. That is why I have a Tacoma now

[@josephbarrerareyes]

@@92813justin Good information. Right now I have a 2010 f150, 4.6L with 374,000 miles and has both bad sensors, so I'll try this weekend. Thanks for the video.

[@michaelbrowning2638]

@@92813justin will do thanks again

[@briansmith1779]

I have the same problem, but only after towing something. No one knew what I was talking about until they witnessed it. I already have the sensors, so I’m pretty sure that they will solve the problem.

[@lisagregory8912]

Thank you. My truck is doing this exact thing and threw the same code

[@richhoops2413]

Thanks. You saved me some time and money. Much appreciated.

[@92813justin]

Great to hear!

[@charlesc9148]

there is a cam position sensor and a camshaft sensor. the camshaft sensor is behind the air compressor

[@Mingalator]

Oh my gosh, I am having this same exact problem, I am going to try this now. Thank you so much. Now I don't hopefully have to waist time and money on a mechanic.

[@92813justin]

Calvin Mingus, it got worse about 6 months later for me. Keep an eye out.

[@jmkovach11]

Hey, @Cluengineer should update the comments of the video that this didn't fix your problem 6 months later it came back thus the cam shafts sensors are the issue.

[@ericperkins2939]

Great helpful video. 👍

[@Rayja17]

Done today....awesome...no more check engine light...Thanks

[@92813justin]

Rayja17 nice! Keep an eye on your engine. I started getting valve trimming issues

[@Rayja17]

@@92813justin I think I know what you mean....is this a cam phasers issue...or is it fixable?

[@dominickier3340]

My Ford does the same shaking thing. Its throwing a P0016 code. Would that be the same issue?

[@skeet441]

What size engine is this I have a 3.5 twin turbo and my setup is different having a hard time finding this

[@lemillio5352]

5.4

[@homersimpson2054]

I think you could also have tested your theory by unplugging sensor(engine Off) after it seem to correct after shutting it down and then restarted engine and saw how it ran without? I suspect it would have idled fine, but coded for sensor circuit.

[@92813justin]

That would have been a good idea

[@18winsagin]

My 09 has been doing it for years, low idle in parking lots or reverse low idle, just rev it up and it calms down, too many people wanna do major repairs like chain etc, I've learned after driving for 40 plus years if you take care of the vehicle and keep good oil in it and decent gas you should not need to go into the front of the engine unless you flat just abuse them. These days with sensors here and sensors there they are most always gonna be the problem not the mechanical internals of the engine!

[@92813justin]

Thank you for your experience with this 5.4

[@mickturner957]

Seems to me the cam isn't going anywhere, why does it need a sensor...

[@AzharAnsari-ut2pc]

Good job boss 👌🏻 👍🏻

[@GarlandBJJ]

Rookie question. I just bought this truck last week. I asked for a rad flush and I have to admit the fluid is the exact colour as yours. I didn’t think that was normal at all. Any idea why that is? Thanks for the video

[@92813justin]

It’s Ford fluid color. Nothing is bad with it or anything if you have the same color. There is a tester to see if your coolant is good or not. You can’t tell by the look of it.

[@Beatitmm]

Great video Man!

[@johnf9622]

Great vid! Thanks for useful info. I'll try on mine-same symptoms- and hope it works.

[@92813justin]

Good luck. This is a 50-50 chance that it will work for your truck. Hopefully it does or else it can get expnsive

[@johnf9622]

@@92813justin understand- but yeah i had three of same codes showing up- unlucky for me the 3.7L has four sensors between rear of engine and firewall- so I'm letting a mechanic tackle it- plus these sensors are about $100 piece locally so I'm ordering

[@cem796]

2011 F150 XLT 3.7 L Trying to locate the Crankshaft Position Valve? Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

[@darwincortez3333]

I have a 2009 ford f150. The truck starts shaking at a stop or in reverse. I changed the sensors and still doing the same thing. Can it also be a bad spark plug. Runs very well in the free way. Thx

[@alanwatts8117]

Did u fix your problem ?

[@Гараж_5]

@@alanwatts8117 did you solve your problem???

[@alanwatts8117]

@@Гараж_5 yes mine was just dirty oil I replace it with motorcraft sintetic blend and motorcraft filter also I start using premium gasoline and till now truck runs like new with out any issue .. ..

[@Гараж_5]

@@alanwatts8117 thanks

[@homersimpson2054]

Its my opinion that you should either retitle your video to: how to replace a bank 1 cam sensor or remove it all together as you probably have discovered by now that its usually related to oil pressure not being sufficient enough to return cams to their original position at idle. An oil change may help, but usually on these engines, its bearing tolerances have worn beyond there limits and presents after engine warmed and oil has thinned a bit. You describe the symptoms to a "T", drove vehicle for about 45 minutes and when you were doing low engine speed maneuvering after, symptom presented. The code wasn't for a circuit code, it was an over advanced code, so the sensor was working and reported cam not where it should have been in relation to crankshaft. the fact that you turned engine off and it corrected itself should have been another clue that it was not the sensor, the engine(mechanical) specifically bank 1 cam, was able to return on its own because engine had stopped and return spring on phaser had enough time to pull its self back to home position, which is what the oil pressure is supposed to do while its running( the return spring is just supposed to aid this). You need to check oil pressure with a mechanical gauge at oil sender switch near oil filter housing( not fun). Engine needs 25psi@hot idle to work these cams and your dash gauge is just a stick that keeps it in the middle unless pressure falls below 3psi( shame on Ford). Go ahead an test it - rev engine all you want - it wont budge either way. A little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing - I guess this is why shops( reputable ones) want to charge for diagnosing before pulling the trigger on a part swap. Not trying to break bad on you, but I read just a few comments and wondered if that truly fixed your problem( it did not for me) or did you have to at least change oil/filter or go all out and replace engine? Maybe put in a disclaimer that if it doesn't fix it, don't blame me, proceed at your own risk?

[@92813justin]

First of all Homer, thank you. You are the most knowledgable person on this subject. I have spoke with local shops and Ford dealers about this and they all have very expensive fixes. Which is why I do not have this truck anymore and will never have the 5.4l ever again. Now to be fair, this specific fix did last me for about a year. Then, I had the issue a year later and paid a local shop $1,700 to fix the low pressure issue. They also reflashed the engine with new software to make it run better. A week later the engine did it again without stopping. I brought it to the Ford dealer this time and they said I had metal in the engine from a valve spring freezing which was causing the cam to chip metal off. They wanted $7,500 for a new engine. To this day I am not sure if these were issue connected with each other. But that engine was babied with only 130k miles which was pretty sad to see.

[@443red]

I have a 2010 F150,5.4,seems when it is hot out and I turn the a,c on, that rattle timing chain noise comes on at idle.I thought maybe the drag from the a,c being on that it was time for a tuneup,just yesterday it threw a code p0012,I was ready to buy the VVT tomorrow but now I think I will drop my oil and filter first.question,should a go with maybe 10-30 oil?The truck has 197k on it?I was thinking a lucus additive with a thicker oil?Any thoughts?oh ya ,the truck ran fine today,thank you

[@brandonparker1371]

Your video helped me out a lot thank you

[@92813justin]

You are welcome!

[@MrTECHPRO2]

Do both banks use the same sensor ?

[@thomash7573]

Had exactly the same issue. Had the bank 2 code. Changed it and it seemed okay for a couple of days and then the other sensor threw a code. Changed it. Then both sensors throw codes. Back to sounding like a diesel when it is warm at low rpm. Grrrr

[@RustyTtop]

I'm getting a p0014 code but not running rough at all.

[@andrewmckenzie956]

Wrench light and check 4x4 shows this as the stored code??

[@Pr.2104]

Huh my 5.4 triton is making that same exact noise at times, and right now I’m in the process of changing the VCT Solenoids so if that doesn’t work maybe this ought to do

[@92813justin]

These engines are a ticking time bombs

[@mulkins2008]

I replaced my VCT both sides but did t fix issue. Changed crankshaft sensor and still same issue. Now I’m hoping this second sensor be the remedy

[@Pr.2104]

@@92813justinNot sure if you still got the truck, but I ended up swapping the oil from 5w-20 to 5w-30. I learned if you use 5w-20 your starving the oil pump these were designed for 5w-30. Along with doing that 2 years after I popped open the valve covers and noticed how gunked up the oil is on it. So I am just running sea foam on jt trying to get the gunk out

[@92813justin]

@ I sold that truck a while ago. I know have the 6.2L which is a great engine! Thank you so more for the follow up. I’ll let my buddies know

[@MrChancebandit]

Great video . Thanks for the time and effort

[@92813justin]

Squatting Squirrel you are welcome

[@ralphpuleo1987]

Informative video 👍 Thanks!

[@92813justin]

Glad it was helpful!

[@johnwall3024]

how long ago did you do this and have you had any issues since? My mechanic is suggesting i do an engine oil flush before replacing the sensors, i had a code for both sensors but my truck behaved just like yours did

[@92813justin]

I no longer have the truck, this 5.4L engine is known to have bad oil pressure at the top of the engine. These cam sensors are controlled by oil pressure. My whole engine blew up at 135k, about 1 year after this. Look up 5.4l triton problems and you will easily find a very well known problem the Ford does not seem to care about.

[@maidu1987]

2012 here with 5.0. Sensors are located in back of engine, i have no room to take sensor out without breaking the sensor itself.

[@HUFF-N-PUFF-2024]

Mine says sensor bank 2 is bad so I'm assuming that's the one on the right correct

[@xpduelist1312]

So my dad changed the sensor, and then I cleared the codes before he started it up again. He got no errors untill he started it up today. Don't know what the code is yet but was he supposed to reset the sensor somehow?

[@92813justin]

Sensor does not have a reset button. If you are having issues with the truck it could be a cam phaser issue which is what happened to me 3 months later after this fix.

[@papabillydeth4723]

Thanks for the help

[@92813justin]

Happy to help

[@isantonio]

My truck y doing the same thing when y turned on ir sounds good but when y run it. For 10 min. It starts doing that same noise and motor Star shaking if I turned off and back on motor it works fine agen is that the same happened to you

[@Гараж_5]

Did you solve your problem?? I have the same thing now. changed the camshaft sensors, crankshaft sensor. checked all the wiring. nothing helped. under load, it begins to triple. I am writing to you from Kazakhstan. did you find the reason ??? help me please

[@themikehoncho7940]

Dude thank you

[@johnriley3803]

I have an 04 f150 5.4L that has all the sam issues and shows both sensors need to be replaced, after doing i still have the same issues with no fix in sight. Other videos are showing to unplug both sensors and vehicle should run fine, does anyone know how long this will work and if this causes any other issues other than check engine light and smog emissions???

[@johnriley3803]

I live in Alaska so smog is not a problem, thanks in advance.

[@92813justin]

My engine went to crap in about 6 months after this

[@MATTCHEWdaWISE]

I had exactly the same issue... thought it was resolved after replacing the sensor but I'm noticing the same thing a week later but im not getting a check engine light this time... any ideas? Only other thing i can think of is replacing the other sensor.. any suggestions?

[@92813justin]

Matt Heldman It could possibly be your cam phasers. I'll do some research on that

[@damonrice8469]

Matt, the condition you are having is possible the cam phaser bad internal.

[@AdLaceStudios]

I’ve been chasing this issue for a couple years now. I’ve replaced my cam phasers, solenoids, timing chain etc. It fixes it for a short period of time then comes back. Very frustrating and very expensive! I am going to now replace the position sensors to see if this fixes the problem. The solenoids are a bad design for sure and the screens in them can actually disintegrate. I am continually getting a P0012 and P0022 code which refers to cam sensors then followed by P0303 and a P0305 which refers to cylinders 3 and 5 misfire. I have checked the ignition coils on all 8 and they seem to working fine so I will replace the actual sensors now. These screens in the solenoids are very small and if you do not run synthetic oil you are asking for trouble. I am also in the process of flushing my oil to replace with synthetic and that process is timely and costly.

[@billyjardine9371]

Matt Heldman cam phasers possibly. Sorry I just saw everyone said same thing

[@thayden8396]

OK video, and generally useful. Here is a little advice to help the viewer, and improve your videos. And try you should try not cover up the parts with your fingers all the time. I know its a tight space to work, and you have to grab the tools/part. But at least take a moment to show the newly installed part so the viewer can have a moment to get oriented, look at the proper orientation of the replaced part, and get a clearer idea of figure out what you just did. I dont mean to bee-atch, just trying to help a fellow KZbinr. Thanks for your videos!

[@92813justin]

Constructive criticism is welcomed here. Thank you for making a great point;

[@sonny13ish]

Thanks man!!

[@valeriethomas9196]

What is this truck cuz I’m still not seeing my sensor and I’m about to go nuts! My tricks oil cap isn’t in this spot either it’s on the drivers side on top of the engine

[@92813justin]

2010 Ford f-150 xlt

[@Threewolfs-]

Have a ‘02 Lighting, mine was on the drivers side 1/2 way down 👍🏻🤠

[@182BlinkStar]

My truck is doing this EXACT thing. Drives fine down the highway. I get into town and go to park and it shakes and idles like hell. I took it to a certified for garage.. and they told me my engine is SHOT.. need a entire new motor. Same codes your getting and same exact results. I’m going to get a second opinion I guess 😫

[@92813justin]

182BlinkStar good look on that!

[@alanwatts8117]

Did you fix your problem

[@DavidSelvera-ws6ce]

Thanks for info

[@phillipmancini9845]

So I just put a brand new engine in my truck and mine truck is still making that same noise your truck is..Its an unsolved mystery no one can figure out what it really is and my motor is brand New, Mind you this is the reason I put a brand new motor in my 2010 f-150 larriet.....Any advice on what I should do?

[@92813justin]

Sell it and buy a Toyota. The cam phasers go out in these. There is not enough lubrication in the top end in these motors so parts where out quickly.

[@ecotintshop9367]

@@92813justin how much was it to replace your cam phasers?

[@mickturner957]

It would be very helpful if you identified the engine you're working on, the Cam Sensor is in different places on the 2.7L V6, 3.5L V6 and 5.0 V8. I just looked at my 2016 Ford F150 XL with a 2.7 L V6 and the sensor is just to the left of the main pulley.

[@canadadotca]

Figure that yourself

[@reynaldoramirezrr]

How much did the sensor cost

[@92813justin]

See description but it was less than $30

[@Ok-uc5in]

Same problem, I replaced mine and it still runs bad. HELP!!!!

[@robertlowman1149]

My bad guys. That was where my brain was when I figured out where my camshaft sensor was. I honestly wish there was a way to delete it but I do like driving my truck.

[@StantonDJJoker]

Same problem here. 2010 f150 5.4L Supercrew XLT

[@StantonDJJoker]

It usually happens about 20 minutes into a city drive, or when slowing to a stop or parking space.

[@turo669]

...or parking in front of my boss😒

[@armstrong4196]

@BigNickDuck did this fix your issue?

[@alanwatts8117]

@@armstrong4196 did you fix yours?

[@napieraustin]

When disconnecting the battery should always disconnect the negative side first

[@robertlowman1149]

My 2014 f150 5.0 does not have valve sensors?

[@robertcasebolt7628]

Actually they are located on back of your heads you have 2 intake 2 exhaust

[@patricknewman5429]

Thank you!

[@10طن]

1:29😁😁👷‍♂️👍✍

[@CasperTheFriendlyGhost777]

Mines says bank 2 po365

[@Ghost5.4]

Mine hasn’t stopped doing the shaking shit

[@brucehoyer5030]

Dude, I don't have a plug mine is just a hose!

[@OldDRCguy]

Helpful Video, however, it is held by a bolt, not a screw (there is a big difference). You may have used (and got away with using) a 7/8 socket (the part that goes on a ratchet) but it is actually an 8 mm head on the bolt (most, if not all modern vehicles use metric now, the worldwide standard). You would be well advised to learn proper tool names and the differences between; nuts, bolts, and screws before making more DYI videos.

[@92813justin]

@@OldDRCguy I agree with the metric and thank for the comment. But it’s actually a screw and not a bolt. Bolts are designed to pass through an unthreaded hole and be fastened with a nut, while screws are designed to be used in a preformed or threaded hole, or to form their own thread.

[@kellymaybee4094]

Bolt, not a screw.

[@GeraldGamble246]

You take off negative...black wire off

[@tonnyarias1490]

I remplace mine too

[@RDBDallas]

I just spent over $1,000 on parts for a TC job and I bet it was this $45.00 part :/

[@92813justin]

After this, my engine went down hill from here. The whole engine went to crap.

[@MidnightWM]

@@92813justin What happened?

[@92813justin]

@@MidnightWM The problem with this engine is the cam phasers and low oil pressure on the top of the engine. One of my cam bearing wore out and slowly through metal in the engine.

[@Гараж_5]

@@92813justin I have the same thing now. changed the camshaft sensors, crankshaft sensor. checked all the wiring. nothing helped. under load, it begins to triple. I am writing to you from Kazakhstan. did you find the reason ??? help me please. Ford expedition 2012 5.4

[@Krayzo093Bosspimp]

My truck was doing the same exact thing.I calles the dealership and they wanted 500-600 dollars to replace it.Smdh

[@92813justin]

Brutal

[@Гараж_5]

@@92813justin I have the same thing now. changed the camshaft sensors, crankshaft sensor. checked all the wiring. nothing helped. under load, it begins to triple. I am writing to you from Kazakhstan. did you find the reason ??? help me please

[@Papaplaytoys]

Did you fix it could be your Rod bearings my camshaft sensors were bad but I found the problem was the rod bearings and damaged rod journals

[@jefftokich8896]

Whoever taught you how to disconnect a battery needs to go back to school and learn about polarities and how to properly disconnect any power source. DO NOT DO WHAT THIS MAN SUGGESTED. ALWAYS ALWAYS A.L.W.A.Y.S DISCONNECT THE * NEGATIVE FIRST* THEN THE POSITIVE. YOU CAN AND WILL GET SEVERELY INJURED IF YOU DONT. Other then that. Great video but please remake this, edit it or just take it down. If someone really was depending on you to help them and they have no previous experience you could be the cause of someone's life changing in the worst possible way. Do the right thing. BE INFORMATIVE NOT STUPID AND NEGLIGENT