2011 - 2020 GM Ecotec 1.4L Turbo Broken Drive Belt Tensioner Replacement (Chevy Cruze Sonic Trax)

[@Tony-c2o]

This is the first time I changed a tensioner. I want to thank you for the information and understanding how to and the safe way of doing things. I will definitely continue to visit you in case I run into another car problem. Thanks a million for making my work easier.

[@davidwarren9924]

Just wanted to say thank you so much for this tensioner video. I had to replace it on my 2016 Chevy Trax and this video help me tremendously!!! Again thank you for saving me $350 in labor. Did it myself.

[@robertotr]

They charged me $600 for it. I'll replace by myself.

[@zarkomiljevic]

My Zafira Tourer C Ecotec 1.4 A14NET have same problem. Belt was ordered before 15min and your video will be my guide te replace belt. Big Thank you from Bosnia and Hercegovina !

[@hallowedbethygame2840]

Thanks for the video, I watched one from MrSubaru and he reused the TTY bolts. Didn’t realize the issue until I saw your video doing it correctly.

[@bakihanma7247]

What kind of issue did that show you?

[@jantelow]

An absolutely fantastic video, the best I've seen. After watching this video I have no qualms about doing this job if I have to do it in the future.

[@YK_Zo]

He actually knows how to use the cordless ratchet

[@williamvillar2519]

Thanks for this video. My son's first car that he is actually paying for (2020) and a sliver of his belt peeled off while he was idling in the driveway. Luckily he heard it and checked on it before driving anywhere. Pretty much what I figured had to be done, after a rough look, but wanted to be sure.

[@_swork_]

So thankful for guys like you making these fantastic videos. Thank you sir!

[@katprince5528]

Excellent instructions,I always wondered what the extra degrees meant or how to measure.This video will be shared to a lot of the pupils.I'm trying to get a whole wave of better diagnostic and mechanically educated folks into the auto repair shops as far as possible,thanks very much for the great camera and methodical clearity.

[@Nathan.44-40]

Appreciate YOU making this informative video!!!!

[@DrShock]

You're welcome, thanks for watching.

[@TheSkilledfighter]

EXCELLENT VIDEO.I just wish I saw it two days ago I spent $468 in NY for the same job and truck. If I ever have to to it later on agan I know how.. Agan EXCELLENT VIDEO

[@gg.v.4770]

This was a very detailed explanation. Thank you!

[@davidevert4786]

Got it running smoothly thanks for the video sir this was my saving grace appreciate it man

[@northsidedork_3043]

Thank you for this video it was so much help when I did this on my 2011 Cruze. It had this exact failure. I guess it was past due to since the car has 160k miles.

[@khallsgotit]

I just did a tune up and the car was still running hard. I saw the belt was shredded and changed it. The old tensioner pulley literally started shredding my brand new belt like it was mozzarella cheese. Gonna change it tomorrow. But I'm running out of money lol

[@MetalTiger88]

i drive an opel astra gtc from 2013 with the same engine. so far it still has it´s original belt and i´m not sure when you should replace it. i think i might try this myself, thank you for this very detailed video without any bs music :D

[@davidcrouch3226]

nicely done...about to do this on my daughter's car

[@Amigo4evr]

A good rule to remember... disconnect the negative battery cable when working on electrical parts...

[@DrShock]

Only if the GM service manual calls for it. This is not necessary in all repair situations.

[@keithwermann9522]

Everything was very good information and ever helpful and save alott of time an replacing the belt

[@HighMito317]

Great job! Quick question , would it possible to change the tensioner withOUT having to take the engine mount off? Thank!

[@DrShock]

Thanks. I took the mount off in two pieces because that's easier for showing more detail. But you certainly can remove it in one piece (engine bracket remains attached to frame bracket) to save on replacing as many torque to yield bolts. The mount in place will make it very difficult to swap out the tensioner, and prevent getting a torque wrench in there for reassembly. But the main reason is you are highly advised to replace the belt when doing this repair because the belt damage the broken tensioner causes (and as I showed in the video), and for that the mount has to come off.

[@HighMito317]

@@DrShock awesome! Thanks for the reply and advice 🙏🏼

[@kylevanwinkle2081]

Thank you i need to do this exact thing with the exact same issue here shortly

[@anowzanaw4406]

Thank you soo much you showing soo clearly

[@byrysh]

10 mm on lower bolt and 11 mm on upper tensioner bolts worked for me just today.

[@juanitoal100cubule3]

Perfecto 👌

[@ericriedesel1338]

@DrShock i just replaced one on a 13 cruze. I didn't go oem but it seems that there isnt enough tension on the belt. Did the parts store possibly give me the wrong one ? Seems the tensioner isnt keeping my belt tight enough ? I did everything right but something is wrong. And the belt squeaks ? Plz help !

[@DrShock]

idk if aftermarket includes the grenade pin retainer, but you have to remove that as I showed with genuine GM for correct fitment.

[@ericriedesel1338]

@DrShock yes sir I did. Is that metal band that runs through the spring supposed to go through the slit or stop ? Just seems like not enough tension. All my pulleys are turning but the belt is squeaking horribly

[@DrShock]

The flat metal insert inside the spring is what usually breaks, as I showed in the vid, causing the tensioner to malfunction. The insert should be intact and attached at the base. It will slide thru the opening at the other end of the spring where the service pin can be reinstalled into the hole in the insert, when needed. If you're sure it's the correct part for the engine (and not an incorrect part as most GM models have more than one engine option) then the noise could just be a worn belt. As I showed in this vid, a broken tensioner can cause damage to the belt forcing it's replacement also.

[@OhYeaMista]

Good vid. Was replacing the alternator and couldn’t get the damn tensioner back in because it wasn’t compressed and this helped me out, thanks. I’m wondering why you bothered taking the airbox and the motor mount out though? Just for more room and better camera shot I’m assuming. FYI everyone watching this, you can get the tensioner and the alternator out without removing those.

[@DrShock]

Thanks. The GM service manual recommends removing those components for best access. You can certainly improvise, but I strive to show the _by the book_ OEM way as much as practical when filming.

[@j83460]

Excellent video. Excellent! Mom in laws has a sqeaky noise when warmed up. Suspect this is the culprit. Any possibility it could be water pump or timing pulley? 2014 encore

[@DrShock]

Thanks. This sound is more of a ticking or tapping. I would expect a pulley to be more of a squeaking or squealing.

[@j83460]

So this tensioner you changed was tapping? Wondering if this pulley is known to squeak on its way out

[@Randy1290]

I replaced one about 3 weeks ago on a 2012 cruze. I also replaced the the timing chain tensioner as it gave out and locked the engine. The chain got wrapped and locked the crank sprocket.

[@ArmenArmenjs]

On 2016 Malibu AC hose interferes with the Engine mounts ?? Yours is on the back which is good.

[@jehadsaa]

What size wood is safe for this job?

[@chrisbeard5794]

I'm getting ready to replace the serpentine belt on a 2018 Buick Encore and you went over some helpful information for me thank you, do I need to put the pin back in the tensioner after new belt is on?

[@DrShock]

No, that pin is only inserted when you're performing service on the belt or pulley accessories. I believe I showed a shot of the GM service manual mentioning that the pin is removed for regular operation. And then installed when you need to remove tension from the belt to perform a service operation.

[@chrisbeard5794]

@@DrShock ok thank you I appreciate it.

[@alexhatcher8812]

you do not need to remove the mount. you can get to the tensioner and replace it without pulling the mount. just loosen it, and pop it out. the 3 bolts pointing UP have to be removed to slide the belt out and new one back in.

[@DrShock]

Yep, I mention in the audio track this is an option. For best visibility and access though, it has to go.

[@troybrothers172]

Hi bud. So I just looked online for the mounting bolts. Are they really 15 dollars per bolt ??

[@tonywestvirginia]

I just reuse them. Heck, They are not holding a cylinder head on. They just want to make more $$ selling you bolts!

[@makeintoschu]

So basically the broken sheet meta part isn't needed for the tensioner to work properly?

[@DrShock]

On the contrary, it is crucial and it's breakage requires replacement of the assembly as we showed in this example.

[@coreywalls6243]

Thanks for the thorough video! You mention a failed crankshaft pulley as being the source of an oil leak. Would it be the pulley or just the seal that failed? I have a bunch of oil on that side of the engine, at least partially the result of the VVT solenoid gaskets up above, but the amount of oil over there suggests a larger leak to me.

[@DrShock]

I hope I said _seal_ in that comment. ;-) Yeah, _front crankshaft seal_ would be one of the additional leak sources. Also the oil pan gasket is leaking on this particular vehicle. I've got these repair videos in the publish queue for next month (or two). It can also sometimes be the timing chain cover gasket as well, rather than just the front crankshaft seal.

[@coreywalls6243]

@@DrShock NICE, thanks!

[@Amigo4evr]

When cool, I would spray degreaser around the oil soiled area(cover the alternator) then wash/rinse off as much as you can. Check oil level and run for a few hours enough to see where the oil is stainng the area again. Use a light and angled mirror as necessary to find the leak...

[@michaelmorrow9927]

this was an excellent video, however one question. In the beginning you mentioned that you had to address the crank shaft pully issue "I'll assume the gasket was leaking and needed replaced new bolt etc". that being said i am curious why the issue was not done at the same time as if i am correct, do you not have to go through the same process of removal of the belt tensioner, belt and motor mount to also do that job?

[@DrShock]

Thanks, you are correct that's all the same labor for pulling the timing cover. The crankshaft seal you can do without removing all that though. However, the owner of this vehicle declined to do all the work at the same time regardless.

[@michaelmorrow9927]

@@DrShock well that explains it. I thought maybe you did but had a separate vid on your channel that i could not find. I have seen other vids, however you were really informative in this one so i was hoping to see your take on it.. thanks for the response.

[@johnbelvin5216]

I had good luck putting the new belt over the top of the water pump pulley last.

[@miguelcalmo2005]

Why exactly does it require need replacing when it’s just jumping up and down in the spring ?

[@DrShock]

Three reasons. The spring is supposed to be held back by that tin retaining tab at an even tension, so you'll have uneven belt wear leading to a premature failure of the serpentine belt while under load. Due to the uneven tension, the spring will eventually force the tensioner assembly to separate under load (i.e., grenade itself sideways). And finally, that now broken tin retainer vibrating around will introduce an annoying engine harmonic (which is your acoustic warning to get it replaced before one of those two possible catastrophic failures that leaves you stranded). Get it done if you have the problem in the early stages, this isn't one of those things you want to attempt to save money on by delaying.

[@samuelrocha5389]

just curious to know if you had any symptoms on the engine due to the tensioner other than noise. great video

[@DrShock]

No, typically you would never notice this until you hear it, or notice the belt wear. Eventually not replacing the broken tensioner will cause premature belt failure.

[@Alejandra-cv7rj]

Yea my serpentine belt got torn off and my tentionor gave out for the most part unfortunately with the shortage of parts nationwide had to put it back on I don't recommend it it's hard to get the belt when a part is bad and kinda dangerous too and very time consuming and also have sound now. But I got the car to move so saved me close to 150

[@sancheztorres35]

Question was this issues making any kind of noise or just a regular maintenance,

[@DrShock]

This one was found diagnosing an engine oil leak complaint, and had no sound associated with it. But they can make a buzzing noise when broken like this, and not caked up with oil gunk. ;-)

[@sancheztorres35]

@@DrShock ok got it , reason of my question is because i have a 2013 rs 1.4 and when i turn on the ac makes a squeaky noise but only when car is stop at any light or stop but when is running the noise gone so is driving me crazy thats why i though was a polly from the tensioner but sound coming from the water pump so is complicated to identify the problem

[@sancheztorres35]

@@DrShock one more question i have a 2013 sonic rs 1.4 turbo and i would lime to know the part number for the oem front crankshaft seal and the part number for the harmonic balancer please thanks

[@northsidedork_3043]

@@sancheztorres35 that is the exact same issue I had when mine went bad. There wouldn't be any noise unless the AC was on and the car was idling. My belt ended up being half the width it should have been because the tensioner was out of alignment and it eventually snapped. It turns out that not only was the spring broken but the bushings on the upper bolt were broken as well. To anyone that reads this comment, if your belt snaps your car will overheat very fast.

[@Alpha_B95]

Would this cause a hard start? Because mine seems worn and I think that's where the sound comes upon start up..

[@DrShock]

The symptoms are going to be noise (usually rattling but could manifest with other sounds), excessive belt wear (e.g. writing completely worn off one half but not the other), and possible some vibration/movement of the belt in motion if it's really far gone. I wouldn't expect any starting problems per say, though there can be excessive tension on the belt it's usually these symptoms. Eventually the belt is going to fray and snap, from the tensioner being broken.

[@seapotatoes7260]

Didn't even take the motor mount out it's hard to get back but possible with a pry bar and patience

[@16190john]

What issues does this even cause? What if I just removed the whole middle metal piece? Would it just cause more play?

[@DrShock]

Then tensioner is required to keep the belt from slipping off the pulleys and maintaining proper tension to operate the accessories (e.g., the AC compressor and alternator). With the tensioner failing, the belt will have accelerated wear out, or may even pop out of the pulley tracks.

[@16190john]

@@DrShock I do all repairs on all 3 of the cruze’s myself so that is good to know and I will keep it in mind. I’m assuming the metal piece holds the spring at a certain point of tension so it doesn’t allow the belt the pop off or bounce to much when the belt speeds up.

[@DrShock]

If you're talking about the inner thin metal piece I showed broken in this vid, yeah that's a travel stop. In fact, you would put a _special tool_ (or something similar like a small nail) in the hole as a holding pin when changing the belt, for example. But when that inner metal retainer breaks, then there's too much tension on the belt and it begins to wear prematurely. If the tensioner fails further, then the opposite problem happens, where the tension is lost.

[@자세히-w7t]

고맙습니다

[@kennethgamble2741]

I’m not aware that you need to remove the complete motor mount rather drop the three initial bolts lower the engine slightly And you can slip the belt out..Jack the engine back up and reinstall the belt

[@DrShock]

Well you are now. ;-) As shown, this is the GM factory service manual procedure. But of course there are opportunities to improvise or simplify the procedure.

[@ericluna8397]

I was able to remove this with the vehichle in the air on my lift and removing splash shield behind wheel with plenty of space and no additional parts needing removal

[@greatunizuka]

what is the title of your workshop manual book?

[@DrShock]

There's a link in the description, it's the GM factory service manual for 2012 Cruzes.

[@davidevert4786]

Do they actually Grenade?

[@DrShock]

Not on the vehicle. But once the tensioner fails like this, the only thing holding back the spring tension are the mounting bolts. So it can want to spring apart once an end is freed. This one was pretty boring though, nothing exciting to see.

[@davidevert4786]

@@DrShock no it's very informative my cars looks Identical to what that one looks like but the bearing part isn't spinning so it pretty much melted my belt and snapped it thanks for the video I'm more or less seeing what to expect when I change it tomorrow.

[@mikeshuck2760]

Normally the “PIn” holds tension pulley back to be able to install the drive belt. I would have slipped belt on smooth tension pulley Last! Not the grooved pulleys.

[@vapestar8916]

Part numbers don’t match my Cruze per websites. 2012 1.4 😢

[@DrShock]

Then the website you are using is incorrect. The part numbers I've shared in this video come out of the GM service manual parts system, the bible written by GM engineering. ;-) Be sure you're working on the same type of 1.4L as I show here (dipstick in the front), there were new designs released in 2016 that could differ (dipstick in the back). Also it's possible a part may have been superseded and replaced by GM since his video was made though, but it will still cross reference back to any previously discontinued part as GM keeps all such part supersession history. What's the part in question, and if I get time I will check it online thru the GM dealership system.

[@vapestar8916]

@@DrShock I had to get mine from the dealership. Cheaper that way.

[@vapestar8916]

The part numbers for the replacement bolts using your links in video. No worries. I have the bolts. Yes mine is 1.4

[@ulnoohiker8983]

Thanks for sharing

[@Александр21-м1ц]

Величезне Вам спасибі з України, ви нам дуже допомогли！

[@bigbaldo7666]

🤘🤘

[@insatiable_mind]

I use an engine hoist instead of a jack

[@drew5337]

I just did a water pump on an encore and this thing was broken off and bouncing around in the spring, which had lunched the belt. I'm telling the owner (my aged mother) to find a little Toyota. Ugh.

[@yahir111juarez5]

Buenas noches disculpa tengo un sonic Lt1.4 turbo manual 2012 ya le cambiaron el tensor de la banda pero aún se escucha el tensor al momento de acelerar ah que se debe?

[@justinv3080]

I think someone said it's also possible to do this job by removing the wheel and fender liner and going from the bottom side so you never have to fool with the motor Mount or anything on top

[@sebastian-rm3wg]

I see your belt is 5pk1397 and i have the 1334 belt same motor but its Opel and no turbo with AC i try onemore time then i get a longer belt.

[@ArmenArmenjs]

Leave to GM engineers to have different size torque bolt on same tensioner. why not a regular 15 mm. Insane.

[@reinhardeder8268]

Cambelt , aka Water pump.

[@DrShock]

In GM factory service jargon; engine drive belt aka serpentine belt

[@Dassick89]

I went ahead and bought grade 10.9 bolts to replace all the TTY bolts that are one time use. It was half the price and they're reusable now. I hate when you have a one time use bolt holding simple things like the belt, tensioner, accessories ect. What a dumb design.

[@Mocaknight]

Omg why did chevy do this!??

[@drakeautos1069]

very bad design ..the engineer was no good

[@MakinARealKillinMusicEnt]

You sound like Steve Jobs lol 💪🏾best video on this tensioner btw.