2011 Mazda 3 P0442 Evap Leak Diagnostics

Car came in with reported MIL on. No driveability complaints. Using smoke machine to confirm leaking vent solenoid.

[@drakevelazquez8728]

The data source is incredible but I can’t afford $180 a month for shade tree sadly! Thank you for the whole diagnostic of this part. I learned a lot.

[@PhillipBailey]

If you're looking for a source of service information for a better price with some limits try Alldatadiy.com

[@horokeu100]

Awesome, did the same check on my 2012 mazda. Great vid. Makes life easier

[@PhillipBailey]

Glad it helped you.

[@marcelomjm5582]

Phillip, thank so much

[@jamesmisner9582]

Great video

[@drakevelazquez8728]

1) remove fuel filler pipes connection at tank. 1a) 1 fuel filler hose and one small hard line 1b) remove rear wheel and mud shield 1c) Remove 2 10 mm bracket bolts for filler neck. One with plastic clamp 1 on the wheel well M6x15mm hex bolts 2) remove or bend muffler heat shield. For more room 3) Attempt to remove vent canister hoses. One side is clamped/pressure side One is just slide on leading to filter You can wait until the bracket is off if needed. Gives you more angles to reach. 3a) locate sensor. That steel bracket is a bracket attached to the sub frame 3b) remove connector wire bracket with large screwdriver. If you break it just zip tie it when re installing everything 3c) the 10 mm bolt is located to the left of the plastic holder 4) 1 single 10 mm bolt. Use flex wrench straight on through the 4 inch opening or 10 mm flex ratchet across from muffler to subframe to sensor bracket. I had to use 10 mm extraction socket because of the rust M6x20mm bolt 4a) now movable remove sensor connector Being able to move bracket now move the bracket around and remove from the rear wheel well hole You can take the sensor off the two 10 mm bracket before or remove the whole bracket together. There is some small steps you will see that I can’t think of. Figuring out how to remove all of the clamps If rusted just break them off or cut them off and replace Use small picks and flat heads to break the hose loose with the rust and grit. Wear glasses if in the rust belt. It was raining shards. 5) install new sensor with anti seize on the bracket then feed bracket through wheel well while. 5a) attach electrical connector 6) on the bracket there is a little alignment tab.you will need a mirror to look at sub frame. 7 ) pre attach clamp to pressure side then attach hose to sensor. 8) 1 10mm bolt new or old back in to secure the bracket. Using a mirror and finesse. 9) attach non clamped hose. Little grease to help slide on. Just a little. 10) attach fuel filler hard line with clamp then main fuel filler with new or old clamp. 11) take your time check each step. It’s frustrating for sure. 12) install loosely new or old 10mm bolts for fuel filler brackets 13) light torque then clip in plastic clip for fuel filler hose. 14) install mud shield 15) curse Mazda for placing the damn thing in such a horrible spot Hope this helps. I didn’t want to touch the sub frame with no lift. No telling what else would break strip or be misaligned.

[@PhillipBailey]

I commend you for have the perseverance to get at it without dropping the subframe. You could also just break the original one as its just plastic and that might help you access the component better to disconnect it from the hoses. thanks for the tips I am sure they will help someone here...

[@speednwargo]

Yah to replace that part you gotta drop the rear subframe which I think is the dumbest thing.

[@drewbush6535]

hi, i did a live scan on my car on the evap system vapor pressure and with the car running or not running with key on, the pressure is -1300 way off normal. is this a leak or clogged canister thanks - no codes

[@PhillipBailey]

Remove the fuel cap. If it does not go to near 0 I'd say you have a fuel tank pressure sensor failure

[@mohammedfaisal8887]

i got the codePO442 on my mazda 12 skyactive and the recommendation i got from AutoZone scanner was to 'replace emission control system hoses'. but it doesn't tell which one. Do you have any suggestions?

[@PhillipBailey]

That code indicates there is a leak in to Evap system. Could be a hose, fuel cap, filler pipe, vent or purge solenoid. The system needs to be smoke tested to potentially find the leak. Throwing parts at it may not fix it but if I had to recommend something I would recommend replacement of the vent solenoid as they commonly fail this way. Leak when they are supposed to seal. I'm not sure what the access is like on that model.

[@mohammedfaisal8887]

@@PhillipBailey Thank you for your prompt response. Sorry for my dumb question but wouldn't several codes throw if its related to the vent solenoid or i may be wrong?

[@PhillipBailey]

@@mohammedfaisal8887 no it won't necessarily set multiple codes. A solenoid can fail electrically, open circuit or shorted circuit and that will usually set a slightly different code but it can also fail mechanically. Physically sticking open, closed or leaking as this one did in this video. Hence the P0442 code for leak detected. Hope this helps.

[@madmike214]

What update do you have on the snappy? Mine doesn't have a pid for "h2o while in purge or vent...i just did a 13 with p0456, found the leak at the breather tube off of the tank, (video on my channel) after the repair I had p0442 pending so now I'm chasing this code lol. I won't have access to the customers vehicle for a few days so I'm gathering info and I believe the p0442 is a separate leak (I had an obvious leak, a cracked line) and I'm suspecting the vent. I also have the autel and I'm going to try my thinkdiag as well just to see if there are tests to get the cycle done, took 2 weeks for this customers light to come back on because of having to full of a tank and not driving it enough...wish these were like the Toyota's where you can force the tests.

[@PhillipBailey]

At 0:30 in the video it shows version 19.4 software. I've since updated it.

[@madmike214]

@@PhillipBailey weird, mine is 20.2 and doesn't have what you had...wonder if it has to do with the year of the vehicle (2013) or maybe it was taken it with the update, I'll have to see what pids are available on my autel or thinkdiag

[@PhillipBailey]

@@madmike214 I've seen where various pics are missing. You are correct could be the scanner or the year. Good luck.

[@trublue2319]

I have a code ,p0442,p0455 can't find function on snap on for vent valve

[@PhillipBailey]

@@trublue2319 the last Mazda I worked on had no support for a purge and seal like test either. Not available with Autel either. Some manufacturers are behind in capabilities for sure.

[@loktom4068]

The algorithm of the Mazda programed into the 2010 -2014 Mazda were simply were too tight out of the factory. As the car reaches more km and few years of regular usage the tolerance will move off the the original programed perimeter naturally. It's the + or - tolerance of give snd takes difference were not tolerated to the tight algorithm by the Mazda programmer. MAZDA has a quiet dealer bulletin that they can update the program to the latest version to accept minor changes as the car ages. If you have stumbling, running rough, and misfires or other symptoms then it's more trouble and missed diagnosis were needed for your car.

[@loktom4068]

Update: But the dealership service for the algorithm programing updates are not free . A few hundred dollars service charges by the dealer will be billed to the client if requested. It happened to my car too. But it doesn't affect my cars performance. So I didn't go back to the dealership for this annoyance scenario. Only that orange engine warning lights really bugs me. After 2 years later and using SHELL gasoline may have solved my problem. The engine warning light somehow has gone off by itself.

[@unpatiperroencanada6544]

Is possible this issue cause dizziness, headaches or health problem. I got this car 4 months ago. And since that time I started to have health problems. I didn’t realized about this before. Thx x comments guys

[@PhillipBailey]

It's highly unlikely but remotely possible. Fumes would have to get into the cab. There would have to be rust holes in the body allowing fumes into the car. Are there any exhaust leaks present

[@killakerve956]

Im losing gas with this code what would you think it is? Mazda 3 2013 2.0 engine skyactiv

[@PhillipBailey]

If you have a fuel leak it stands to reason the tank won't hold pressure or vacuum. If the tank is steel its likely rusted at the seams. If its plastic it's likely a line leaking. Do you see fuel dripping? Is it only when the tank is above 1/2 level?

[@killakerve956]

@@PhillipBailey thank u so much for the quick response no theres no visual leak but i know theres vapors coming out somewhere to cause this. Oh and no i filled it up to the max. And i had 444 miles drove it back to my house (same city) and got home to 399 miles

[@killakerve956]

I found a mechanic so i just hope everything gets spotted asap. My old mechanic did the mistake and erase the engine light. :(