How to Diagnose and Replace a Mazda 3 Canister Vent Solenoid P0442 P0456

[@SKIDMARKBROWN]

After watching this video I decided I can look at the check engine light

[@czoeller7245]

Super helpful video; thanks! One observation: When dropping the subframe, the flexible brake lines are stressed. I couldn't drop more than about 2 or 2.5 inches max before the brake lines were at their limit. But that was enough to get at the solenoid. Thanks again.

[@OliverPorter92]

Thanks for watching! I kept a close eye on mine but they did not strain, good to watch out for though!

[@martynewton627]

So what year Mazda 3 is this

[@btarb242]

Thanks for the pointers on the subframe bolts. Went smoothly and exactly as you described.

[@OliverPorter92]

Thanks for watching! Hope it helps. Unfortunately, this solenoid is now bad - have to do it all over again 3 years later !

[@hvyhauler53]

Great video, saved me a lot of time fixing my 2012 Mazda 3. Thanks for taking the time to do this video!

[@OliverPorter92]

Thanks for watching! Glad it helped! Once the subframe comes down, it is an easy job.

[@chriszanni9769]

My girlfriends Masada 3 threw that p0456 code and it wasn’t for this video I wouldn’t have been able to fix it so thank you so much

[@OliverPorter92]

Thanks for watching! Glad it helped! Have fun out there!

[@marcelomjm5582]

Hey Oliver, Thank you for the video it really helped me a lot I finally replaced the vent Solenoid without a problem, your video was awesome, my 2011 speed 3 check engine light is gone..

[@OliverPorter92]

Hi Marcelo, Thanks for watching and glad it helped! It was such relief to me as well once I fixed it and the light turned off. Good luck!

[@jggarage1807]

What was the CEL number?

[@OliverPorter92]

@@jggarage1807 P0456

[@davidyee5655]

Excellent video. I had P0442 and P0456 codes on my 2011 Mazda 3. After watching your video I decided to replace both purge and vent solenoids. Your suggestion for using an impact driver was INVALUABLE. Having never used an impact driver I watched a couple of KZbin videos on it and now I'm a pro. My only suggestion is that you should've mentioned that you'll need a couple of 1/2" drive impact extension rods to unbolt the frame. FYI, both solenoids cost approx. $115 with shipping from RockAuto. My question to you is: how long did your Mazda3 perform another small leak test before the check engine light cleared? The P0456 code said it's permanent and didn't clear after driving the car around for an hour. There's indication on searching the Internet that the small leak test takes a long time to perform before it clears the check engine light (if the problem is fixed).

[@OliverPorter92]

Thanks for watching and glad it helped on your 3! The impact helps a lot, and yes the extensions were helpful too, I can add them to the parts list in the comments. The standard drive cycle is about ~50 miles of regular driving for the car to clear the permanent code through a vent pressure test (something like close vent, close purge, see if vacuum holds, and/or various iterations written in the ECU code, several other KZbins detail the exact test). So if you see it on, it should turn off within a few days of driving if this was the correct fix. Good luck!

[@JoeZupko2]

Looks relatively simple, I'm sure the hardest part will be dealing with rusty nuts haha Obviously trying a new gas cap is an easy first step, but doesn't look like that's gonna work for me 😭 Although if it's actually a $1k repair job I can definitely spend a couple hours to take care of it since I'm not making $500/hr

[@OliverPorter92]

@@JoeZupko2 you got the jist of it! If there’s no rust and the car is in 80f summer air it’s an easy job…I’ve done it multiple times, hot and no rust >>> cold and rusted ugh

[@Painting_Inspiration]

What causes this vent valve to leak?

[@OliverPorter92]

Not sure but I’d guess worn seals or bad spring tension. Mine clicked but still threw the code so I think it’s the sealing components more than the electronics.

[@alexquezada510]

Hey I got a 2015 Mazda 3 getting p0452 and p0446 I’m going to start by replacing the gas cap which I doubt will work because the cap looks like it was just replaced (I just got the car so I don’t know much about It) how should I go after trying the cap?

[@OliverPorter92]

@@alexquezada510 normal drive cycle to confirm (ie 1-2 weeks of driving for me after clearing codes) then this job unfortunately. I had no interim troubleshooting step

[@ginger5668]

Yeah when my check engine light came on and I did the OBD2 test. It came back to me as a P0442 code. I was like okay now what. So I looked it up and I thought it was my gas cap but I knew it was because I replaced it a week ago. So now I'm thinking it's my solenoid. Thanks imma to a bit a wrenching but I'm pretty sure this is the problem. After all my car is over 10 years old.

[@OliverPorter92]

Thanks for watching! Yes a bit of wrenching hope it helped though.

[@vegan-rising]

LOL you're way too careful dude. the entire bracket and bolts rusted and broken apart on mine I removed the entire bracket and attached the hoses and electrical back on the valve and just put one tie strap to hold it in place. a way cleaner and better design than before. other than that, a fine repair this is.

[@OliverPorter92]

Haha I literally just had to redo this the valve went 3 yrs later. Did something similar since it’s so rusty down below decks hahah

[@glennrudolph9867]

Thanks!

[@OliverPorter92]

Thanks for watching and your support! Glad it helped!

[@glennrudolph9867]

Oliver, this video saved me $800... CA rates. I would have not been able to replace the vent solenoid w/o it and just wanted to thank you. Your video was AWESOME... every bolt you helped me identify... dropped the subframe down 3". Clear shot to the solenoid. Note for others: As you could see in Olivers video, he had to deal with rust. I did not and it was very easy... no impact driver, just a 17mm and 10mm socket. I did put a 3/4" x 18" pipe on the end of the socket wrench for leverage on the six chassis bolts (absolutely needed)! Hell, finding a part in stock took longer than the actual job! You are really good at these tutorials... enjoy a lunch on me.

[@camilomartinez4304]

Do you know what the part would look like for a 2008 mazda 3 2.3l I am getting codes 442 and 455

[@Duece-xl2mc]

Thanks for the video

[@marcelomjm5582]

Dude, Thank you so much for the video that really helps I have the same problem with my 2011 speed 3 just one question what was the torque when you replace the 4 bolts

[@OliverPorter92]

Thanks for watching, hope this helped - sorry for the delay, 10mm Solenoid: All hand-tight, 17mm 6x suspension bolts, 3/side: 73-97 ft-lb, 17mm 2x shock bolts, 1/side: 59-77 ft-lb

[@nathanield.4527]

At 1:00, Is bolt number 1 inside the coil spring area? How did you remove that?

[@OliverPorter92]

Yes, I used wobble adapters and extensions to position my 17mm socket.

[@epicjas0n]

F-Mazda for making this part so hard to change. Dealer charges $1k for the fix. About $800 for the labor.

[@OliverPorter92]

Sorry you had to shell out for this...certainly an annoying location for such a simple valve.

[@Ahmad-Str]

How do you remove the bolt thats located inside the coil spring!? The space is so small that I'm not even sure what tool would be able to fit in there

[@OliverPorter92]

I did not remove any bolt inside the spring, but for the six on each side I just used 1/2-in extenders of different lengths for access. I actually broke a bolt (not in video) - was too rusted out.

[@howardhill2495]

Hi! I have a 2012 Mazda 3 skyactive that looks exactly like this underneath and am also having an issue with the purge solenoid. My problem is that my solenoid connector wires were torn off about 8” from the connector (down by the cross member) and I have no idea where the missing section of wire should connect back into. Could you explain how/where the connector is wired into the wiring harness?

[@OliverPorter92]

Thanks for watching. Unfortunately not, would need to go into the wiring diagram in the shop manual (Mazda may be able to provide the manual and schematic). Sorry for that!

[@thejamzron]

I have a 2012 Mazda3 and the gas tank does not hold any pressure, every time I take off the gas cap (which I replaced) I noticed there is no release of pressure at all. Could this be the part be defective ? I replaced the vent valve at the engine and still read codes of P0442 and P0456.

[@OliverPorter92]

If you replaced a valve at the engine, that was likely the purge valve. Your issue is most likely towards the tank, try new gas cap, smoke testing or following a code troubleshooting tree likely needed to isolate leak.

[@serge_sa]

It looks like I have a similar issue. How much do you think mechanic should charge for that kind of job without parts?

[@OliverPorter92]

Thanks for watching. I am not sure (short answer). I had a separate issue in this area (broken bolt that I could not remove from the subframe, required lowering subframe and torching/replacing the bolt). This is similar to this job because it involved 1) lowering the frame and 2) working on the frame area after lowering, and was $160 in Boston's North Shore. The vent solenoid is somewhat involved, and labor rates vary widely around the country. Think of that as a bounding number, but if there is any troubleshooting involved it will be more...my overall troubleshooting w/ my smoke maker and purge solenoid took longer (my own time). Sorry I don't have the full story cost-wise and good luck!

[@serge_sa]

@@OliverPorter92 how did you command vent solenoid to close in order to test it? I did not find it in forscan

[@OliverPorter92]

@@serge_sa That was the tough part - you need a bi-directional >$1000+ scanner to do this. I suspected it after not getting anywhere with purge and reading online. I did test it once I removed it in the video with the 12v car battery and some alligator clips and noticed lagging/leaking.

[@serge_sa]

@@OliverPorter92 thanks. I suspected the same.

[@JMPK23]

Alot of work for my rusty mazda 3 with almost 200,000 miles and a slippy 2nd gear. Think I'll keep clearing the code til it comes back instantly and the just ignore it lol

[@OliverPorter92]

Yeah, I did it to pass MA inspection. It was a fun job...if you find this stuff fun! Thanks for watching.

[@JMPK23]

@@OliverPorter92 definently man. You did a great job.

[@frapsATV]

Wow sounds like like my car. 2008 Mazda 3, 3rd to second or 2nd to third and it makes not nice sounds if you step on it

[@grahamholmes9737]

I'm not sure but on my modle mazda 3 there was an access pannel on the subframe right about where your jack is... Coulda saved some effort

[@RogerSnyderPhoto]

What is your SPECIFIC model? Thanks.

[@grahamholmes9737]

Way easier to cut a hole in the trunk

[@Username-es1iy]

I was just thinking the same thing 🤔 then hire a welder to create a latching door

[@ap9012]

Do you need alignment after?

[@OliverPorter92]

I did not align, but likely would not hurt if the underbody shifted a bit.

[@kasperz689]

Can you clarify where the bolt 4 is? It cut quickly

[@OliverPorter92]

Sorry #4 is the shock suspension bolt, 17mm, that connects the shock to the knuckle.

[@kasperz689]

@@OliverPorter92 thank you!

[@OliverPorter92]

@@kasperz689 hope it helps!

[@BCAT3089]

my key has a black flag on it like your red one

[@OliverPorter92]

Haha nice! I always use a Remove before flight tag. Thanks for watching!

[@joshuacasey7835]

Amazon shows this doesn’t fit a 2013, it looks exactly the same as what I need though. You sure it is the same for the 2013

[@OliverPorter92]

Thanks for watching! I believe it should work if it is a non-Skyactiv 2013 model.

[@joshuacasey7835]

@@OliverPorter92 my wife’s is skyactive, wonder why that changes a part like that

[@ap9012]

Bro, can you unbolt just one side?

[@OliverPorter92]

Possibly, but this method gave a me confirmed access. From the film it is still a tight squeeze.

[@alexpolicarpo4344]

The light just came on on my Mazda 3 2012 I put a scanner and it shows P0456 code. The cabin smells like gas does anyone have this problem of the cabin smelling like gas because of this problem?

[@OliverPorter92]

I did not have a gas smell but it could be that the code is from a bad fuel line and not a bad solenoid (would cause the same lack of vacuum in the line from canister to engine that you’d get from a stick open solenoid). A pro may need to look at the whole system for leaks in that case. Sorry this is not more specific but if you try relaxing the solenoid and the code stays then look to the lines.

[@alexpolicarpo4344]

@@OliverPorter92 I have gone to multiple mechanics and no one seems to know, they just say keep driving the code will go away, I’ve been driving it for over a week now and nothing. i need someone in LA

[@OliverPorter92]

@@alexpolicarpo4344 If the code is away I would not be too concerned. It may be a different cause for the smell; the vent solenoid is way in the back. If the code kept on, then the smell makes sense (vapor leak). Sorry this is somewhat cryptic.

[@alexpolicarpo4344]

@@OliverPorter92 but the smells comes from the car vent I’m thinking it’s coming front the front of the car

[@OliverPorter92]

@@alexpolicarpo4344 If the smell is coming from the car ventilation system but you still have P0456 my gut says it is not the canister vent solenoid causing it, likely the fuel vapor line between the canister and the purge valve located in the engine bay.

[@jimcody8089]

What is the 100 ft-lb limit on? It's cut off in the description. Thanks!

[@OliverPorter92]

Thanks for watching! I just update the recommended torques in the description, -17mm 6x suspension bolts, 3/side: 73-97 ft-lb -17mm 2x shock bolts, 1/side: 59-77 ft-lb

[@jimcody8089]

@@OliverPorter92 great! Also, does your Mazda have the skyactive motor? I’m having difficulty figuring out what part to buy and it’s location. Auto parts stores showing a different part. My son’s is a 2012 Mazda 3i with the Skyactiv. Thanks again!

[@OliverPorter92]

@@jimcody8089 I have the 2012 Mazda 3 2.0L M/T i Sedan (VIN code G/Shop Manual Code LF). Skyactiv 3i 2012 is VIN Code 8, 1998cc vs my 2000cc. The 911-711 link in the video description works for both, so you should be all set.

[@jimcody8089]

@@OliverPorter92 what is the part on the drivers side of the engine then? Showing canister purge valve online. Could this throw a P0442 code as well?

[@OliverPorter92]

@@jimcody8089 See description in my purge video kzbin.info/www/bejne/iJ-YZWOAfa-hg9U which was the beginning of the troubleshoot. P0442 is less likely to be purge, it is a small leak. It may make sense to just replace both if you are already at it. Purge is quite simple to replace since you do not have to lower an entire frame! Good luck. Here is the purge: amzn.to/3mfieNc

[@uhmeizuhngralphf0549]

Does that give you bad gas mileage

[@OliverPorter92]

Thanks for watching. I didn't notice a difference before and after the fix, hope this helps.

[@ap9012]

Once i get the code, gas milage increased dramatically

[@wolf_crown]

Nice video but it’s hard to follow as you keep cutting, forcing me to watch over and over to see where you are at.

[@Super6-Four]

They could have put that shit in the front of the engine

[@OliverPorter92]

Couldn’t agree more. Royal pain. I have done this job twice now

[@noredcr]

good grief. what a stupid reason to have check engine light and fail emissions. can you tell I'm excited to do this on my gf's car? lol

[@OliverPorter92]

These were my thoughts exactly before this job hope it was smooth for you. Royal pain to get to oof. Thanks for watching though!