2012-2018 Ford Focus Slipping? No Reverse? No Drive? Problem Solved. Easy Fix. You Can Do This!

[@bazelaisracine3342]

Thank you very much for that amazing video! I had this issue with my ford focus. $3,500.00 were asked to fix it. I have tried this and now my car is running fantastic. Special thanks to that unknown angel who suggested me that video!!

[@theDudEE100]

Ford dealer quoted me 3672$ for clutch and fork replacement because it was shuttering while shifting from 1 to 2 gear. That's what you saved me, my 2014 focus has 59000kms on it. Just cleaned both actuators and it runs smooth again. Cheers and thank you from Cananda.🍺

[@leronnurse]

Sighs

[@Joe-oi6eh]

For real same deal! This guy is a Saint!!

[@jasonashley9853]

Start driving the car harder in 1st gear. Let off the gas after it shifts to 2nd and then drive like normal.

[@markmatt9174]

Reminder Gord has a free replacement clutch work under a TSB 100,000 miles so u r under the warranty for replacement.

[@winterssiege4624]

@@jasonashley9853why ?

[@jmfsmith]

Just did this on my Focus, didn't have the Actuator Reset Tool available so I just alternated spraying brake cleaner and placing the Actuator back on a few times. Now my Focus runs like it's brand new again. You are a LEGEND dude!!!!!!

[@L8R-HP]

Nice! 👍

[@aswarsuardi125]

@@L8R-HP what if I spray carbon cleaner or 4wd.?,, any different result.?

[@cooperking7271]

So you just sprayed brake cleaner and then drove your car around? Having trouble getting the reset tool

[@jmfsmith]

@@cooperking7271 yeah after you spray the cleaner in quickly tighten the actuator back down with a couple of screws and hop in your car, and spend a minute or two just turning your key from off to the on position, the actuator will spin the fork over and over rapidly

[@elhehe8476]

@@jmfsmith let me know how long that’ll last you. I doubt it’ll go on for long the heat and friction material will kill those levers again.

[@christhibeault9964]

Thanks for this video! My 10 year old and I just fought to get Actuator B Out. Took it for a test drive and it shifts better than I ever can remember. YOU ROCK!

[@uncubanomasoficial]

You have saved my life. I almost drove my car into a canal, it is giving me problems and I am very worried about this. My car is a 2013 Ford Focus SE, I bought it used since I couldn't afford a new one, it has one hundred and eighty thousand miles. I appreciate that your video is subtitled in Spanish, it helps the Spanish-speaking Latino community. To write these letters I used a translator, thank you friend, thank you very much. Greetings from Lehigh Acres in Florida.

[@loganpennington9104]

Hey man! i’ve actually rebuilt the transmission in these cars. I’m not saying this to stress you out, but at 180k, it’s ready to go. Everything with this cars transmission is flawed. Fundamentally. You need to sell this car before you start having a fork get stuck, or a rear seal start leaking. Please buy a honda. These cars suck, and my fiesta (uses the same transmission) brought me to the lowest point of my life.

[@lbertlopez83]

What were you drinking?

[@greatness7822]

@@loganpennington9104no point in rebuilding at 180k?

[@loganpennington9104]

@@greatness7822 Depends on the state of everything else in the car. If the engines perfect, and the suspensions fine, it may be. But if you’re paying someone else to do it and it’s more than 2,000, probably not. This cars transmission sucks and is bound to fail again

[@dougmichalk2590]

2012 Ford focus s 2.0 , 64,000 miles Error Codes P0903 clutch A actuator circuit high U3003-17 high battery voltage U0100-00 ? U0101-00 ? Idles Rough , No Forward , has Reverse , sometimes Forward after 2 or 3 minutes . Disconnected the Battery for 30 minutes , Reconnected Battery . Now Idles Great , Easily Shifts into Forward and Reverse and Drives Great . Thank You Jesus !

[@helenmartinezenriquez8170]

I saw this video and i subscribe because you're a honest and transparent person, God bless you for helping people really needs it... God bless your life, family, and business. The world needs more people like you to be a beautiful and better place to live...

[@L8R-HP]

Thank you 😊

[@fernandohiguera6972]

I have the same Ford Focus 2014, watching your video makes me a little better about owning this car. You are my new Mechanic please don’t go off you tube you are helping people. Thank you 🙏

[@camdawson5714]

I hit a cat a week ago and it fucked everything up

[@corbinslaymaker3346]

@@camdawson5714 lmao

[@weecho27]

This video was super helpful. Started having issues with my 2014 Focus and I thought it was the TCM again. Dealer said it was "bent clutch forks" and would be $3000-$4000 to fix. Just went through this process and so far so good.

[@rosidus]

Is your clutch stil going?

[@lukesmith6006]

Just did this on my 2014 Focus that appears to have a sticky clutch and has the same code as the video title. Key is use lots of brake parts cleaner while cranking the clutch actuator hole with the actuator tool, spray, crank, spray crank and only about 10-14 rotations MAX then turn it back down the whole ways. You will notice if you’ve never done this before, the clutch won’t go back down the whole way by itself. The goal is to get the clutch fork to completely release back down on its own after cranking up about 10 rotations. After brake parts cleaner, add a little WD40 to lube the actuator hole, crank up 10 rotations and back down. You may need to put it back together drive it for a little and do some more cleaning if you still have the same code and bad shifts. When this first started, I cleaned and lubed with WD40 as described, but the clutch fork wasn’t releasing back down on its own after being cranked and it was still shifting bad sometimes and showing the code. Drove it for about 2 weeks, then took it back apart and did some more extensive cleaning with the brake parts cleaner and then little WD40 lube at the end then after cranking 10 rotations, releasing the wrench made the clutch release it the whole way back down to the bottom. Now the code is gone and the car drives normal again. It’s just a sticky clutch and needs cleaned.

[@L8R-HP]

Nice job 👍

[@Bilal-g9y]

Is there still slippage in your transmission or has it been corrected?

[@lukesmith6006]

@@Bilal-g9y No slip, this has been corrected since i posted this basically. May have had to do 1 more cleaning session but it ultimately fixes the problem.

[@robertclark7624]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I just completed this procedure and everything is working again. Before I wash having a hard time staring the car, no reverse, sometimes it wouldn’t go into any gear and normal shifting was a nightmare. No more of these problems are occurring. You sir are the MAN.

[@Raveent]

I agree with you, after experiencing driving a Ford Powershift dual clutch 6DCT250 for 8 years on Fiesta Ecoboost 1.0L at hot tropical country with total 90k km, I have concluded that this transmission is quite reliable and enjoyable which suits my driving style which has never been trouble since brand new. As far as I know, all Ford Powershift problems are not due to flaw design, but due to 2 material defects supplied by the vendor, namely the TCM and shaft seals on the early generation Powershift, If you get a late generation powershift like I have then it is completely problem free. And apart from that due to lack of maintenance which in my opinion should be cleaned every 50-75k km so that the clutch unit mechanism is smooth and does not jam due to very dirty clutch dust. But by the way thanks for your informative video 🙏

[@ProfessorThock]

Thank you SO MUCH! You’ve saved me thousands of dollars. Tonight I cleaned actuator B following your directions and it made an immediate huge difference. Tomorrow I’ll be cleaning actuator A as well to see if that fixes the occasional small slips I’m getting while slowing down. But cleaning actuator B dramatically improved my ascending shifts. Smooooth now. I’ve been babying it into second gear for years and now I finally have my car back!!

[@gheeshin]

FIXED!!!!! Bro, thank you so much!!!!!! Fixed my car last night. Didn't have the tool, so I used a skinny slot flat head bit from my gun kit. As suggested, I used brake cleaner & WD 40. Didn't want to break the flat head bit, so I hand rotated & released for bout 30 mins. Skipped the OBD b/c don't have a scanner. Anyway, my Focus starts right away, no delayed 1st gear engagement, and no shuddering. Thank you, thank you, and thank you.

[@L8R-HP]

Nice! Good work 👍

[@Dorightby]

Is it still working ?

[@L8R-HP]

@@Dorightby yes

[@Dorightby]

@@L8R-HP where are you located brotha? How much would you charge to take transmission apart and clean it

[@gheeshin]

@@Dorightby Yes, like a brand new car.

[@theroyalonemalik4125]

I did exactly what you showed in your video. Brake clean and Wd40. I didn't have that bit but used a screwdriver like you showed in another video. And it Worked! Thank you. I appreciate you posting these videos.

[@jonathanjones8895]

Did you have to do the reset with the diagnostic computer as well?

[@theroyalonemalik4125]

@@jonathanjones8895 No I just unplugged the battery before the process. Then connect after to reset.

[@marioo6315]

​@theroyalonemalik4125 I have some questions my boy? What screw driver did you use? Star bit? Fill-up? Flat? Also what issues were u having?

[@theroyalonemalik4125]

@@marioo6315 but make sure it fits tight or you will strip it out. Then the actuator wont work.

[@marioo6315]

@@theroyalonemalik4125 I just ordered the spline 6mm

[@kerrysowards5084]

Amazing, helpful video brother! FYI - clutch actuator A controls only the odd forward gears (1, 3, 5). Actuator B controls even gears and reverse. Hope this helps if you experience skipping gears.

[@L8R-HP]

Correct, I should have explained it better

[@kerrysowards5084]

@@L8R-HP You did a great job! I removed my actuator B and tried to use a M6 spline tool to turn the forks, but the hole in the actuator well appeared to worn or stripped. I'll try to order the tool you recommend to turn them and see if it fits better. If not, I assume I will need to remove the transmission. Thanks again!

[@drewnelson5433]

What scan tool are you using? I would like to perform the resets on my transmission before taking to dealer.

[@NaviYT]

@@drewnelson5433 you kinda don't need to. It'll do the drum calibration if it feels that your gears are out of whack or a clutch is stuck. I did this procedure without the calibrations and it worked fine. As far as a transmission computer reset, you just have to turn on your vehicle, turn it off, exit the vehicle, close the door, lock it so it beeps, get back in and start it up. Or instead of getting out, just pretend like you did. Just make sure you unlock the door with your key and not your door if you don't want your alarm to go off.

[@chrisfinoc6236]

THAT EXPLAINS WHY MINE WONT REVERSE OR SHIFT OUT OF FIRST!!!😮😮😮😮

[@timallen4856]

I did this a week ago to my wife's car and it drives wonderful now!!! Thank you!!

[@L8R-HP]

Nice! 💪

[@DesiAnanth]

Man idk what kinda magic this is but it works!! I had code P07A3 friction element A stuck on. Mines a 2012 so no warranty no way im going to the dealer. It would shudder, buck like a horse and skip gears. Tuned that spline thing and it wouldnt spring back. I did your little method turning with an impact, cleaning and spraying wd40 and lithium grease and then it finally turned smoothly by itself. Did it some more to make sure that thing wont get stuck. Cars running smoother than its ever ran before. I'd rather keep doing this every couple of months rather than paying to have the clutch changed. Its not worth it.

[@L8R-HP]

👍🤩

[@GazzMan57]

This is actually the 3rd Ford Focus that I've owned. I like them because they are economical, drive and perform pretty well, and I have NEVER had a problem. Until Now... (2018 Focus 4Cyl SE Sedan) Wife's car started acting weird, not accelerating. I thought it was fuel system. Did some work on that. But now it's way worse. It started making weird noises when you open the door. Like the Actuator keeps trying to reset and it can't. This goes on for a while. When the car is off, and parked for hours - you can hear the engine making this noise, like gears moving. I couldn't find ANY info about strange noises coming from the engine while it's parked. Anyway, somehow stumbled onto this video and it has helped me understand. A LOT! THANK YOU!! I went ahead and cleaned and lubed the A actuator. Drove the car but it's still having problems shifting. I'm waiting on jack stands before I can tackle the B actuator. Really hoping that cleaning and lubing up both actuators will solve the problem. If not, at least I have a much better understanding of what's going on. Not sure what my next step will be if Cleaning and Lubing A & B don't solve the problem. Replace the Actuators?

[@DPS6_Payne]

I’ve heard of this before, I read that the repetitive sound is clutch forks engaging and disengaging. it’s usually only supposed to happen once when you unlock the car and open the door. The repetitive motion of the forks sounds like the TCM may not be communicating with the transmission correctly so try to run a diagnostic on it. You may be eligible for a free one at the Ford dealer if your car meets the mileage and age requirement for the warranty program.

[@greatness7822]

what year is it?

[@GazzMan57]

@@greatness7822 SORRY! I forgot to put that in. Edited my post - added 2018 Focus SE

[@roldrix0354]

Hey, any update on what it was? I have a 2017 se and I have the same issue. A strange transformer noise when opening the door or right after turning off the car..but it’s doesn’t happen all the time.

[@RickBlue-t3o]

@Gazzman57 - thanks for sharing as my 2014 Focus is having the same experience. The wife drove through a sizable puddle and then this issue started. The engine sounds and runs just fine but it feels like it’s starting in second gear and it also still goes into reverse. But as you mentioned, when I open the doors before the car is running, I can hear some actuating type noises in the engine compartment, so I’m not certain if that’s an indication that I need to also replace the actuators or not. Were you ever able to find any more information out about the actuator noise and were you able to get it resolved? Thx! RB

[@joelperez8842]

The timing of coming across this video was perfect. I had to look up others things that were going wrong with my daughter's 16 focus and watched this video "just because". I fixed the other problem that she had and magically enough a few days later she was having the hesitation, slipping problem. Ran the code and of course it show Actuator B was stuck. Did as you suggested and problem fixed. Great video and thanks for taking the time to put it together and sharing it with us.

[@katlanshepherd1296]

@jay Perez is it normal when you start turning it counter clock wise and it's like it's got compression In it like it wants to kick back the other way like it's spring loaded

[@oldmedstudent1750]

@@katlanshepherd1296 yes, because it is spring loaded

[@rccarsandmusic2641]

This needs to be a TSB at Ford for every existing Focus and Fiestas. Really clean that clutch dust lubricate drive!

[@colemanjulius2]

Battery died got a jump and the car wouldn't drive at all reverse or drive, did the transmission valve resets with my launch scan tool and it worked perfectly these new cars are dumb. Thank you your video helped alot 😂😂

[@L8R-HP]

Low or dead battery can kill the TCM 😣

[@DzoTek]

Thank you so much! I did everything you said to do in the video on my 2018 SE. My car is running beautiful! God Bless you bro you saved me 4k!

[@L8R-HP]

Thanks for watching 💪

[@CoolinWithSosa]

Just Got the invoice for whole entire replacement, 3k for everything(All) in the Bell Housing, He told me its the Forks A&B inside of the Housing,(From Experience)He's a transmission specialist of 20+years, The #1 atleast in my County, Blessing 🙌

[@b5a5m5]

6:38 I would recommend using a normal drill and not an impact driver for this as you can set the clutch of the drill so you don't apply more force than desired.

[@L8R-HP]

Best to do it by hand if you don’t know what you’re doing. I use this little drill cuz it has different settings and works great for me.

[@jaykokos]

I just bought a 2014 with 110k miles. Didn’t notice the shuddering when I test drove because it hadn’t gotten warm enough, but it’s been horrible. I did this fix and it worked amazingly. Ford told me there was nothing that could be done about it. I seriously can’t thank you enough. I’d send you a gift if I could. You are the MAN!!!!

[@L8R-HP]

Nice! Good job 👍💪

[@winstondoc2009]

My mom has this car, and yes it does have this issue. She took it to a mechanic and i bought parts to replace the actuators, but the brobkem still exists. Im traveling back home this month, and I will perform the procedures you did in hopes of alleviating the issues. Thank you in advance, because i thought i needed to get her a new transmission!.

[@Brandon-du9xz]

Have you done this yet ? results ?

[@eugenfiranescu2262]

It works. Focus 2014 SE 110.000 KM. I just did the B actuator and it kicked in with no errors after driving kinda 30 km.The "reset tool" I used carefully was an Allen key with a rounded head 1/4.Hex the same size does the job too.But it needs to be hold firm while turning and all by hand .It took me half an hour.I didn't even spray that much like here but I'm going to do it again more consistent when I'll open the other actuator these days. Then I erased all codes with the ODBlink dongle. ''P07A4, Transmission Friction Element B Performance/Stuck Off''. ''P2701-00 Transmission Friction Element B Apply Time Range/Performance It runs reverse too with slightly occasional shuddering. At least I can have some more spare time to have a cheaper quote to replace the clutches and eventual forks and clean the build up black powder from the old clutches.

[@ohboy89]

Did u get the oem or the aftermarket?

[@stevofromiowa]

I used lithium grease on mine. One other thing I did (saw it on another video) was to drill two 1/4 inch holes in the case. One adjacent to actuator B, and the other at the bottom of the case. Bent the straw on the brake cleaner can at a 45 degree angle and used the hole to wash down the mechanism inside the case with the hole in the bottom used for drainage. It's dry in there so it's not going to hurt anything. I then took the blower gun and blew an insane amount of clutch dust out of the case through the actuator hole.. Washed it down again with brake clean again and then lubed it all. It's crazy because it's a 2017 with only 66k on it. If you're missing the splash shield and/or are otherwise worried about stuff getting in through the holes, a rubber plug or a dab of silicone will easily seal it up.

[@kenbaker1353]

For the comment that said he drilled two holes in the case I would love to see picture of where the holes exactly are the sounds like a good idea

[@stevofromiowa]

@@kenbaker1353 This is where I found out how to do it. Figured it was worth a shot! Starts around the 1:30 mark. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eaC4YoR9o8RsncU

[@mountainman5025]

Not to mention the wear aid of the metal shavings left behind.

[@noax7635]

hey btw actuator A controls gears 1, 3, 5 and B controls R,2,4,6 not just R. they work in parallel to come in when the other clutch disengages with minimal power loss, its how its so fuel efficient. :)

[@L8R-HP]

Ether way. Clean both forks 🤩

[@jackdaniels2657]

It's failure rate is 100 percent

[@L8R-HP]

@@jackdaniels2657 yes, if you suck at driving 😂

[@jackdaniels2657]

@@L8R-HP it's junk regardless I'm telling u as transmission mechanic these transmissions suck like why have a manual transmission but yet operate automatically it makes no sense. U might as well have an automatic but those are junk too. They just need to leave manual transmissions alone. Even os semi trucks the eaton transmissions work similarly to these being that it's electronic manual it honestly sucks. These ones have the problems with the release bearings they go bad frequently and the forks are always getting debris on the rollers causing a binding kinda like this guy just explained ND the clutches on these transmissions are a pain in the but to replace because u can't just change the clutch. Nope u need to change clutch clutch bearing both release forks both electric actuators ND then the procedure is an even more pain in the ass. The way he's turning it counter clockwise 14 times on both release forks then once u get it in the car before u bolt up the clutch to flywheel u gotta rotate engine 5 times to center the clutch to the flywheel then to tighten the 6 13mm clutch nuts to the flywheel u gotta install a nut on every other stud cus it can ruin alignment if u don't. It takes 9 hours roughly if u had the right tools when compared fully manual transmissions that Ford focus has in same year, only takes 6 hours to do a job no special tools required in and out. Just imagine the cost for all listed parts above then u see why fully manual is better simpler affordable more efficent far more reliable and far less headache

[@L8R-HP]

@@jackdaniels2657 agreed, manuals are the way to go. But these transmissions actually don’t fail. The TCM does, actuators do. And forks get stuck. It takes me 3 hours to remove trans and clean and reinstall. Easy process and fast. I do this all day everyday.

[@keefer88]

not sure what the brake cleaner on my face and camera were for but it worked like a charm! thanks bud!

[@curtisbaskin6097]

He was making a joke seriously you didn't catch on that....like how old are you?? Did your family every make a joke about something??

[@drerobinson5546]

@@curtisbaskin6097 lmao like for real smh dull dude

[@quandrewoods7455]

@@curtisbaskin6097 imma give benefit of the doubt and say they’re being sarcastic?😅

[@IamDaytrader]

Have 14,000 miles on my 2017 and blown away I’m having this issue already. I hardly drive the car and never imagined something like this before it would be traded in.

[@loretocamo3758]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge to the world, God bless you always .

[@anthonybha4510]

Which of the 8000 known caveman science fiction stories are you referencing?

[@XJon2011]

Ford TSB for shuddering should keep the severe shudder at bay for a while. We've had a 2012 focus dct in our family for years and from 70k miles til the 230k it's got now, doing the TSB has 'scrubbed' the clutches enough to deglaze them. However, if you're getting codes, always check them first, if no codes and just shuddering look up the TSB and run from a dead stop through the first four gears at an aggressive pace a few times (3-4) all at once. Our focus is bucking mad today, shifting causes rev jumps and feels like slipping in the first clutch and finally threw codes so now I get to diagnose from there. Most like the forks at this point (230k miles). Clutches lasted this long, which is impressive so if you have less miles and just the shudder in 1st-2nd, do the TSB and see if that helps. This video is another good idea to increase some life in your lemon car.

[@RC-ug5kq]

what do you mean by TSB?

[@matthewmarkese4183]

Technical Service Bulletin

[@superrrGnarly]

what do u mean by do the TSB?

[@whill7828]

TSB Number? That would assist many people researching this issue.

[@XJon2011]

@@whill7828 kzbin.info/www/bejne/o6SkYaNubLRlr5Y Here's a video that explains it all in great detail by an actual Ford Technician.

[@Chris-pj1os]

Man, thank you so much for taking time to make this clear, concise video. This process worked for me to restore reverse in our focus, so now I just need to see how long it drives until we need to do it again. But thanks. Super helpful video.

[@L8R-HP]

I would do every oil change, or every other oil change. Glad it helped 💪

[@Chris-pj1os]

@@L8R-HP Quick update: This only worked for about 60 miles and we lost reverse again, w/ bad shifting. P287A code. This time I drilled and flushed with brake fluid (as seen in various videos on KZbin), tons of black dust came out, so we'll see if this lasts longer.

[@dafozy4587]

@@Chris-pj1osdid it?

[@Chris-pj1os]

@@dafozy4587 unfortunately not for more than a day each time. Ended up doing the clutch pak on it.

[@allenhumphreys2586]

Got code P07A3, friction A stuck on, did this to both A+B, (A was real bad), IAC code went away, reset light, done, drives awesome now 👍

[@allenhumphreys2586]

Yes, I have driven close to 100 miles since fixing this two days ago, just perfect !! Driveability/Smoothness/MPG is best I had in months, probably do this at every other oil change, may take extra 15-20 minutes, saves/extends your clutch life. Besides this issue at 82,600 miles, car is perfect, 2018 Focus. 😎 Very appreciative of this video/info 🙏

[@williansonrudolph6252]

Process helps alot

[@murderblock8194]

@@allenhumphreys2586 was the gears slipping on you because I got the same car and code also? Did doing that fix the issue?

[@allenhumphreys2586]

@@murderblock8194 Yes, it was basically disabling clutch A and related speeds/gears, only clutch B gears, 2,4,6,reverse would work, of course all related jerking, etc. was present, I did install new A+B motors about 9 days ago, just in case, got Chinese ones on evilbay, repeated clean + lube before install, etc. At almost 1k miles, it's working very good and avg mpg is up.

[@dhg1337]

Allen Humphreys h

[@lizmorrison529]

7 weeks later after doing this and my focus is still running great without issues! (It used to have issues daily with forks getting stuck & going into limp mode.) Again, thank you!

[@banjoyBoy]

My just-acquired 2013 Focus SE with 80k miles is *just beginning* to be a little sluggish in gears and *very mild* shuddering every now and then. I'm going to do this now while I'm replacing all the motor mounts, might as well I'll be right there anyway. Why wait for things to gum up completely? Also going to do the grounding fix on all the three ground points I know about, it's never been done on this car. Hopefully this will preempt future problems. Very helpful videos I reapply appreciate the time you've taken to share.

[@toothpick05]

Hey man do you mind me asking how this went?

[@LuisArias-mi5tf]

I did it and my car is working normally thanks to you and God, I was very worried because I had to pay a lot of money because they asked me to change the actuators and the clutch for a total value of $4,500 and well, I don't have that money.

[@corbinslaymaker3346]

I can’t believe the timing of this vid. I’ve had many many issues with my exact same 2014 Black Ford Focus SE and the reverse is now going out every day (really acts up as the weather gets warmer). I’m really hoping that I can see similar results after trying this out.

[@iiNinjaDefuseHD]

Crazy @corbin slaymaker! I'm having the EXACT issue as of yesterday again...Haven't had an issue for about 1.5 years with the 2016 Ford Focus SE...

[@corbinslaymaker3346]

@@iiNinjaDefuseHD welcome to the club man been dealing with issues for years but it’s starting to get scary. Stalling in front of oncoming traffic when trying to cross highways, in rush hour and clutch won’t engage in any gear for 10 seconds, revers goes out completely and I have to have my passengers push. This car is a death trap. Hopefully this fixes it or at least remedies it enough to sell the damn thing.

[@thegribblereport8383]

Same here anyone know the name of the tool he used

[@thegribblereport8383]

@@corbinslaymaker3346 Ford should replace the module there was a settlement

[@corbinslaymaker3346]

@@thegribblereport8383 mines a salvage title :D

[@DanGalsberg602]

Not sure if it is mentioned already in the comments but you should clean all the grounds for the transmission and the ground on the shock tower. There is a video on KZbin how to do this. Very inportant for proper shifting as well.

[@L8R-HP]

For sure. You want good communication with the TCM

[@bcfmef]

adding my opinion to this. I have a 2013 that has had intermittent shudder ever since I bought it. I have followed the issue with these transmissions for years and watched many of the supposed solutions to help or "band aid" the issues with shuddering and check engine codes. Thus far, tuning has been the #1 fix to this tranny, however, continuous data logging must be done and the shudder can still return, especially in lots of stop and go traffic. The Ford recalls were just a temporary fix that accomplished nothing. Re-grounding the wires was not a solution either. And finally flooring the gas pedal from a dead stop to reset the ECM didn't work either. Recently , owners & me too, with some basic mechanicking skills have been replacing the shift actuators and or trying this method of cleaning & lubricating the actuator hole where it meets the forks.... And it WORKS pretty darn good and maybe the best temporary fix or band-aid that I have seen thus far. And it makes sense. However, because this transmission is flawed, I believe the cleaning and or replacement of the shift actuators ($80 a piece) is something that is going to have to be performed every 20,000 to 30,000 miles to help extend the life of this transmission. Of course, driving styles and habits dictate how frequent this has to be done. After all of these years of 12-18 Focus owners scratching our heads, this maybe the best and most cost effective solution to help this transmission extend its life and perform like it suppose to. Again this is just my opinion cause Im not a hard core mechanic

[@danielverduzco2396]

Hello. I'm Daniel. I Just bought a 2014 Ford Focus SE from a dealership on the 6/7/2022. I Drove it for 400 miles. 95% of those being highway miles. I got the Transmission Fault Light. When I ran the code reader it gave me P06B8 Internal Control Module Non-Volatile Random Access Memory(NVRAM) Error with 6 Secondary Diagnostic Trouble Codes P0606: ECM/PCM Processor, P0884: TCM Power Input Signal Intermittent, P0606-00 ECM/PCM Processor, P06B8-00: Internal Control Module Non-Volatile Random Access Memory (NVRAM) Error, P0702-00: Transmission Control System Electrical, P0884-00 (TCM) Power Input Signal Intermittent. The Next Primary Codes (3) are U0428-68 Invalid Data Received From (SASM)- Event Information. U3003-16: Battery Voltage - Circuit Voltage Below Threshold. Then U3003-17: Battery Voltage- Circuit Voltage Above Threshold. The shop said there putting a new transmission and TCM and clutch. Can I pleas have your 2 cents.

[@patrickshelley09]

I've logged 188k miles on my 2016 SE. Technically an SEL but they didn't have the SEL badge that year. The transmission took a dump at 109k miles and was slipping a lot for 30k miles prior to that. They replaced the actuators and a number of other parts and it's been great ever since. No shudders or slipping since. Not sure if the newer parts were improved, if I got lucky or it's about to start acting up again.

[@anthonybha4510]

All that work to still be a slave to big oil

[@jtj33322]

Just tried it. Seems to be helping thank you will keep you posted. Ps. When I took the actuator off clutch dust fell....it is probably caked inside ugh....

[@curtismajeskie3419]

The shudder of the focus transmission is why Im switching back to manual. Its a horrible issue and a lot of ford techs will tell you its suppose to shudder slightly. Gear changes are slow and all around its just a horrible transmission. Im dumping ford and never looking back especially since they are moving to engine configurations that make it almost impossible for home repair.

[@Mcguiver30]

2012 ford focus -had a car sit for 3 yrs slipping gears, removed A & B actuators and the amount of clutch debris binding the actuators was everywhere. Had to do procedure above and clean the A&B actuators well and unit head... Purchased only the tool 6mm and car runs fine now without TCM scanner relearn. This will happen to all of these DRY clutches as there is no way to stop the clutch dust from exiting trans and adhering to the actuators ( moisture + time = stuck forks and actuators jamming- slipping no gear)...thumbs up to L8R-HP

[@Bobbyebadd]

"Don't force it" Also him. Let's impact it Lol good video

[@aCEalmostready]

I got an used 2014 Focus, 1 week after got problems with transmission: some "crack" before moving reverse/drive, it also increase a lot RPM before engaging next gear and it was impossible to select the sport mode. Now it's been stuck in Ford's service during 2 months right now. I hope I had found this before leaving mi car to the fortune!!! 🥴 Great video, thanks a lot!!!

[@HarshKumar-gg1qr]

Did you repaired your for i have same issue i bought 2 months ago its 2012

[@aCEalmostready]

@@HarshKumar-gg1qr unfortunately I couldn't fix it because I took the car to Ford's service and they said it was a problem with the TCM, so they replaced it for free (10 years warranty). If you have a 2012 model, maybe there's no more warranty for yours. However, you can try to take it to service. I planned that, as maintenance, I can do this cleaning once or twice a year, let's see how it works. Good luck!

[@mazinger14510]

your da man great detailed video not even on my ase seminars they do it so good

[@JClayJaseDetroit]

I intermittently lose reverse and 2-4-6. -- Actuator B was covered in Oil. So I cleaned it off and sprayed the inside a bit. Hoping it helps, but only time will tell. Thanks for the video.

[@fairfax_fran5109]

You got hold the fork open to get the d40 in side counter close wise 10 spins with a screw driver kit make sure it fits but don’t have to be perfect as size the recommended tool hold it open spray d40 and brake cleaner repeat process over 12+ times some videos state you repeat it 20 times but 12 is good 👍

[@JClayJaseDetroit]

@fairfax_fran5109 Thanks for the reply. I got about 100 miles out of it before it started acting up again. (Typically would get about 10 miles around town til it lose half my gears) so I got hopeful. -- I am going to order a few tools and try again to get inside the housing/forks better in the way you described. Thanks again. Some hope still left. Haha

[@JClayJaseDetroit]

Was also considering buying a new actuator and just replacing it. Since my problem seems to be happening intermittently.

[@garethmilne6887]

You may run into a problem with the seal swelling and locking things up. WD40 and CRC equivalent cause rubber components to swell a lot!! Should be mentioned on the cans. Please keep this in mind when using these two sprays. Thanks for the video. Much appreciated

[@L8R-HP]

Nothing to swell up in there

[@user-jf5jg7drth]

@@L8R-HP резиновый пыльник на вилках

[@Jay_dot74]

Oh my I just did this at 130,000 miles, and I think lubing the actuators might fix the normal shift judder we all battle with on this car. It might be something I do every other oil change now.

[@sergiopossa9167]

Meu camarada, sou brasileiro. Vi seu vídeo e muito obrigado, funcionou bem mano

[@johnkehoe5950]

Very good explanation, The humor is good too

[@davec6724]

Good job. Glad I still drive my Volvo 240 with 320K miles, so simple and easy. Cheers.

[@sherifmostafa803]

Thank you! Worked great for my 2014 Ford Focus!

[@jtj33322]

Did this and seems to have solved issue. Will keep posted To sub the tool I used a flat head bit and went slow with the drill. For the actuator I used a square bit. Worked fine 👍 Thank you, saved me alot of money. Keep them coming

[@arickle]

Is it still working fine?

[@cinthiagarcia2564]

I changed A n B... did not move anything around just added a hit of the spray n let it dry a bit then put in new actuators n car works great again

[@salaamhiggins4557]

Wow! I have a 2016 and I'm scheduled at the ford dealer to fix this Friday. I know they're going to try to charge me for like the whole transmission. I need those tools. Thank you for sharing

[@MrFavi87]

I have the same problems with my 2017

[@MikesVlogss]

How did the repairs go at the Ford Dealership?

[@salaamhiggins4557]

@@MikesVlogss you won't believe this, ford still has it. They gave us a rental car. For a $35 part they're charging us $800 for part and labor

[@meegansmith2155]

What part did they end up fixing? I have a 2016

[@salaamhiggins4557]

@@meegansmith2155 i think it's called the actuator B

[@chrisschultz6129]

I wonder if you could remove the starter, spray in compressed air to agitate the dust; and then use a shop vac to remove the airborne dust. Maybe do this every year or every other year.

[@L8R-HP]

It won’t get much dust out, but should help

[@BlacknRedSN95]

i just bought a ford focus st for 600$ with only 125k miles on it i plan on using it on turo as an income generator. It has transmission problems so imma try this thank you

[@jak3est]

Focus st is 6spd manual

[@SIMON-sf6sq]

This won’t work in the st

[@glennburkey5009]

Cleaned and lubed actuator B. Now it runs and shifts great. Best $22.50 investment I’ve made so far. Saved thousands from taking to stealership.

[@marissa8429]

Thanks for this informative video! My ford focus dont have reverse. And moving forward slowly. Will bring it to dealership tomorrow hope I make it. Let me also mention that Ford has 10 year extended warranty on ford focus in regards with transmission problem. Check it with them too..

[@IamDaytrader]

Good to know mine is a 2017 with only 14,000 miles on it. Not sure what happened but car is in limp mode and reverse acts like neutral. I did pay for extended warranty so it should be covered. Can’t believe I’m having this kind of issue with hardly any miles.

[@IamDaytrader]

Did you find out what’s wrong with yours yet? You can get by limp mode by manually shifting L gear to D at around 3500 rpm and still go 45mph on the side roads to dealer. You’re skipping 2nd gear that’s why the limp mode from take off. Mine had some physical damage internally waiting to find out exact issue. It is likely the casing has a sheared stop for the B fork side of TCM so fork isn’t being engaged at all. Explains the clunk I heard when driving forward after a battery change.

[@marissa8429]

@@IamDaytrader its the transmission. I was told that i need to wait 6 to 8 months for the part…. I dont need to pay anything for the part because it is gonna be paid by ford but I decided to sell it to the dealership for 4500$…. It had 64k mikes on it. I regretted selling for that price but oh well, Ive done it already… :(

[@seandonnelly3150]

@@marissa8429 what year was yours and how many miles

[@johnclemans7802]

I have a couple questions regarding this procedure. #1 when you are moving the shift forks in and out with the drill and bit combo, Does the Clutch Fork "spring back" to its original setting? #2 When installing new actuators (Motorcraft) are they factory set? In other words, plug an play? Doesn't matter how the new acctulaor is " splined" / installed on the clutch forks? Thanks,

[@garyball6420]

Worked great, drives like new! Great video

[@Itsmekrodriguez]

Guy, your video is very helpful. Thank you. I'm hoping somene helps me to just clean the actuators as I can't go underneath my car without the lift. I got this problem in NC in my way back to New York. Sadly the people just state that is the transmission as you said without the proper disgnosis. It takes 3 days to get the diagnosis over here and i just need to go back. But you are amazing in your process and explanation!

[@archeredutainment8453]

thank you... I won't do this myself, but I now know where I'll take it to get it looked at and hopefully repaired.

[@LuisArias-mi5tf]

What are your tips to follow for proper maintenance and driving of the vehicle to take care of the transmission and its components, thank you, thank you.

[@kemicbi]

It worked, took it for a test drive and parked couldn’t get to start again should have kept all my tools in the car with me

[@L8R-HP]

Your forks are stuck

[@kiotiromania5861]

Very helpful for my Ford Focus 2015. also, Automatic transmisson . thank you !

[@MegaAce1987]

Nice info helped me out i turned the fork 14 times by hand. Got tired at 12 or 13 and it spun back lol. I heard a click noise at the end. What does the clicking noise mean?? Anyways I drove it 12 miles in town and on a mike stretch of highway where I can floor it up to 90. I think it’s retraining it but the shifting is a little better since I drive it vs the beginning. The transmission light came on 5 miles into it. Shut car off turned back on and tried reverse i was able to reverse around some cars, trailer back to where I parked it. Moved it back and forth took my foot off pedal and it was going.

[@FormosaFamilyTravels]

Hi great video and a very good explanation, just one question, when changing the gearbox oil how can you cycle through all the gears ? do you have a video on this. Thanks

[@L8R-HP]

No need to cycle. Just drain and fill

[@FormosaFamilyTravels]

@@L8R-HP ok thanks I thought there was a special way to make sure that the gears cycle through ok as you cannot select the gears with the + and - button

[@FormosaFamilyTravels]

Also this is 2017 1.5 TDCI on Ford connect van

[@L8R-HP]

@@FormosaFamilyTravels all oil does in these DPS6 transactions is lube the gears. Just like a manual transmission.

[@FormosaFamilyTravels]

@@L8R-HP thank you, we shall have a go then, I think it would be good if you could do a video on changing the gearbox oil, I think a lot of people would appreciate it,

[@rosidus]

My question is what effect will all the fluid have on the clutch in the long run??

[@L8R-HP]

Don’t put too much and it won’t be an issues. There’s so much heat in there it will dry right up

[@rosidus]

​@@L8R-HP thanks for getting back to me. I definitely need to do this.

[@MuhammadNadeem-rw7uk]

Hello sir how are you I am Mohammad Nadeem this is your very helpful video I like very much

[@darclyte8887]

Thank you for making these videos. I have a 2105 focus and had no idea about any of these fixes. I cleaned both A and B as described, but when I started up the car, I no longer had reverse or drive. It shows its in Drive but doesn't move and RPMs don't go over 1200. Do I need to do the relearn before it will work?

[@yosoydpfknr2855]

What happened you solved the problem?

[@dariusgross4616]

I’m having the same problem and I only have 90k Miles

[@ItchyKneeSon]

I wonder if silicone spray would be better to use than WD-40 because it will coat the parts and not dissipate over time.

[@L8R-HP]

Yes

[@360Sebastian360]

My focus is slipping slightly in first, so I will test this fix out. I think I will get an extra actuator from the junkyard and cut off the splined part to make my own tool.

[@nilesemmert2942]

Low key smart..

[@2511jeremy]

did it work?

[@360Sebastian360]

@@2511jeremy I have not done it. the transmission is performing fine as is currently

[@michaelhart7524]

I have a 2014 Focus. Car suddenly would not go over 30mph. Reverse and Drive works fine. Took to mechanic and they said transmission needed replaced. However when the codes were cleared, the car drove perfect all the way home. Has not happened again since bringing it home. What would have caused the issue? Mechanic did not tell me what codes pulled when it was scanned sadly but with it running fine now, I'm skeptical that it is actually the transmission. Thoughts?

[@alexlessa5135]

good evening. I would like to thank you for this video it helped me a lot. God bless you

[@ИлюкаРаботяжный]

can you explain - how exactly do you need to operate with this Clutch Reset Actuator Tool right.... i mean, what's the rule of engagement? thank you... i don't wanna break it) 11:45 is it the rule? "turn it counter clockwise 14 times and then release"?

[@L8R-HP]

Yes. 14 times. Do it by hand. If stuck work it back in forth

[@ИлюкаРаботяжный]

@@L8R-HP i attemtp to clean actuator port with wd40 and I failed - the bearing just fell apart when I was turning actuator tool. so I guess now I should looking for rebuild the gearbox completely 🤡 🤡 now the hole is not fixed - it moves, and balls fell out of the hole 🤡 🤡 The fork drive shaft sheared off internally from the roller/spring assembly and dumped tiny ball bearings all over the inside of it. Seattle WA

[@korycurtis3730]

When you're working it with the impact are you going in forward and reverse?

[@L8R-HP]

Just reverse. It should go back forward by itself if working properly

[@ofitecmueblesdeoficina3925]

Good morning friend, to ask you what model of scanner do you use for TCM relearning?

[@L8R-HP]

I use a launch 431 mini. Can also use forscan

[@armondtodd6969]

Man your video definitely helped me make a decision to purchase or not! 🙂

[@isthattrue1083]

Don't save yourself all this hassle

[@georgevalencia4863]

Nice fixed! & check engine went away by itself

[@L8R-HP]

Nice! Good job 💪

[@caliss5715]

Impact-Driver has small battery which prevents damage. Drill should have a smalll battery too or go slow. Be very carefull. Apply extra fluid to help clean. Have patience. Good Luck

[@abnerrocha351]

please sir. I found it very practical and instructive. thanks. But I wonder if the dry box of this clutch model has these problems with rust, due to facilitated water infiltration, if the injection of these solvent liquids will not cause future problems. ok it's lubricant too..I know. But just out of curiosity.. is there a drain at the bottom that allows the excess of these sprays to drain naturally? Tanks for your time.

[@corbinslaymaker3346]

Yo! Thank you for the video. I'm preparing to do this work on my 2014 Ford Focus se. Lately, after 20 min of driving or so, my check engine light will come on, I'll lose Reverse and switching gears from 1-2 and 2-3 are really rough. I've seen on other videos that you can and maybe should (?) clean the forks with Brake cleaner and lubricate with WD-40, I also purchased 2 new actuators just to cover all my bases. My question to you is, do I need some fancy diagnostic tool to do this job? Or can I get by just cleaning the forks, replacing the actuators, and restarting the car? If I need some sort of Diagnostic tool, what capabilities must it have? I just ordered a FORScan tool, will I be able to do what is necessary with FORScan? Any help would be so greatly appreciated man. Thanks!

[@CattyWompus.]

Curious to know how this turned out for you

[@mads416]

hey I’m having those same issues. were you also getting “transmission hot” issues but it would be fine after a few minutes? Thanks, if you read this

[@corbinslaymaker3346]

@@mads416 Hey mads, no, fortunately for me I didn't have that issue, but I haven't fixed my issue yet either. It still jerks and shudders often but the worst of it has yet to come. It seems that the issue is especially apparent when it gets hot, like 80F+, and we haven't really had that where I'm at yet. The worst includes stalling completely (car does not get into gear) or losing reverse for 20 min at a time. Hope we figure it out. Ford should have a Class Action filed against them.

[@corbinslaymaker3346]

@@CattyWompus. Hi Catty, I haven't fixed it yet but my car still runs and jerks at every stop sign! lol

[@jeyssonsian9817]

What is the scanner are you using I have not scanner to program the computer

[@sooperdave70]

Thanx for the video. This help me diagnose a failed actuator. Did the swap to test and was able to flip the non working gears. I'm back to running normal and getting bad shutter on the 1-2 shift which leads me to think the forks are dirty. Gonna try and clean them next. Thx again!!

[@jakemir]

Thank you for the video! I am getting a P090C and have already replaced the two actuators but I did not clean out actuator B on the bottom. What scan tool can I use for this procedure?

[@L8R-HP]

Launch 431 mini. But can also use forscan

[@joegarcia4756]

Sorry for this stupid question . Not a pro mechanic . Just ordered new A & B clutch actuators fron Yinlowa . They are not marked A or B , and look very indentical . So how can tell the differencd from the two ? I got our 2014 Focus for $700 from a parish member at my church . It only has 100,000 miles on it . Thank you for your video . Again sorry for the dumb question .

[@L8R-HP]

Actuators are the same

[@timnoble6932]

Thank You!!! This worked for me. I made a tool out of an old motor I took out. Thanks for sharing.

[@ohboy89]

Did u get the oem actuator or the aftermarket one?

[@sftaxi7245]

❤ hello and thanks so much 🕊️❓Is it possible to use high pressure air for cleaning.....

[@L8R-HP]

Sure

[@user-hg5yy6sw7c]

TY4 this info!👑 Great video! Btw, What’s the average cost for a fix like this at car mechanic or dealership!🤔

[@L8R-HP]

I charge $2500 parts and labor. Dealer chargers $5-7k

[@user-hg5yy6sw7c]

@@L8R-HP Wow! I was thinking with a work a round like this, it would be cheaper to fix. Thanks.

[@cisco83]

also what do you need to remove the four screws holding the actuators? please advise thank you

[@earthflute2248]

At the same time as doing actuator a you MUST clean all earth straps. They were painted over at the factory, so the full current could not be used by the trans eventually burning the ECU and actuators out. Just take them off remove the body paint wd40 the lugs and bolts and put them back. Your actuators or ECU will not burn out due to poor return paths. Cheap insurance.

[@L8R-HP]

Yes!

[@josephatherton2781]

Thankyou for sharing your knowledge and information on cleaning the clutch forks linkage .

[@Daniel-cq5zp]

I presiate for all .. like a good Mexican 🇲🇽 thank you

[@Sulfen]

Thank you for this video it helped me a lot. I ended up having to replace the solenoid itself and now the reverse is working like magic.

[@bqthird]

What solenoid?

[@sjonuzi]

Do you think is a good idea to put a vacuum hose in the hole to remove some dust from transmission housing before spraying brake cleaner.. I don’t have any problem yet, just thinking to do it as a preventive maintenance

[@L8R-HP]

Worth a try

[@scothubbard5323]

Have you had any that would illuminate a warning in the Instrument cluster of the transmission is overheating? Transmission is full of fluid. It will alert an overtemp of trans within 1 mile of a cold startup. Not actually overheating. Can't build enough heat to have an overtemp condition that quickly...

[@L8R-HP]

The forks are getting stuck and making clutch slip and get hot.

[@ryans4401]

Good video, I used a used part and took it apart to make a tool. Long story short, the bottom fork wound up all the way and then unwound itself all the way. A actuator DID NOT spin back all the way, it would spin about 4 spins and stop. Does that mean the fork is bad? I'm not a very mechanical person but it definitely didn't spin back freely like B actuator did. I tried spraying it multiple times and using plenty of WD-40 and it still didn't spin free all the way back. It also looked off center and made a clicking sound at about the last 6 turns. Would I need to take this transmission apart?

[@L8R-HP]

That fork needs to be replaced :/

[@ryans4401]

@@L8R-HP Thank you man for your response. That's what I was thinking too.

[@ryans4401]

@@L8R-HP do you have any recommendations for ordering a new clutch and fingers from? I looked at rock auto but didn't see anything. Who's got solid replacement parts? I'm probably going to completely rebuild the dry side. 100K miles on her.

[@L8R-HP]

@@ryans4401 ford OEM parts if you want it to last. eBay, just make sure they are OEM ford

[@howardrewald9817]

If it was me doing this I would use some thing a bit mo luby at the end of your process. What is your thought using some lite machine oil for final lubrication seeing ,WD 40 will dry out quickly.

[@chrisjewell7740]

Mine is a 2013 and the tool won't work. 6mm does not fit. Is there another tool for it ?

[@L8R-HP]

Capri Tools 6 mm M6 Stubby XZN Triple Square Bit Socket, 1/4-Inch Drive (CP30353) www.amazon.com/dp/B083B6KMCL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_APBT1Y53WYPBMXJ4PSKE

[@gandhi2926]

@@L8R-HP hi , i just notice TRIPLE SQUARE 6mm only have 12 sides , so they have to be 14 sides as the actuator or the special tool , the good one has 14 sides same as the link from ebay u sent me