2013 Toyota Avalon - Crank No Start diagnosis!

We have here a 2013 Toyota Avalon that's a crank no start. It's from the auction and there is a throttle body on the floor of the car. I assumed it was going to be a fun one. It turned out to be a simple issue. Hope you enjoy!
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[@jameslewis1175]

I like ur video style man. Quick and simple.

[@advancedleveldiagnostics]

I appreciate that!

[@dtandfam8100]

Agreed. No BS just straight to the point. No games.

[@ThunderbirdRocket]

Yeah it’s a very good style ! He is a masted expert . 🏹🎯

[@ianbuilds7712]

A Lil anxiety inducing 😵 like sometimes we need to slow down to speed up..

[@chrisdirienzo4235]

Not mad about another pump video. Love seeing your diagnostic process. As long as you keep taking the time to make theses videos, I'll keep watching.

[@arthurfricchione8119]

Thanks for sharing. Really enjoy your channel. 👍

[@advancedleveldiagnostics]

Thanks for watching!

[@bartscave]

Thanks for sharing!

[@dtandfam8100]

Solid as always! Real world troubleshooting! Thanks for sharing!

[@advancedleveldiagnostics]

Thanks for watching!

[@kyletuttle9064]

Good video enjoy the process.thanks for sharing

[@ADScar]

Another great and quick diag! Good job...

[@advancedleveldiagnostics]

Thanks!

[@ThunderbirdRocket]

Tremendous tutorial ! Thanks coach !!

[@advancedleveldiagnostics]

Thanks for watching!

[@sheerwillsurvival2064]

Another great video 👊🏻

[@advancedleveldiagnostics]

Appreciate it!

[@saiautomotivemilton.7128]

Another good video. Thank you

[@advancedleveldiagnostics]

Thanks!

[@shmuelzions3026]

Beautiful!!

[@advancedleveldiagnostics]

Thank you! 😊

[@Foreverlove995]

Good job 👍

[@advancedleveldiagnostics]

Thank you!

[@bobsoft]

It's like Deja Vu. I thought for awhile that test light was a homemade job from a headlight socket/bulb with a rattle can lid until I saw your video "My Diagnostic EDC & Exclusive Truck Sneak Peek!"

[@advancedleveldiagnostics]

I used to use a homemade one until I found out that @jarheaddiagnostics makes one.

[@raphaelbalachsan4764]

Nice!! Isnt nice for a easy access fuel pump!!

[@normandfogarty3505]

You are awesome. 👍👍

[@DallasAutoDiag]

Good diag.

[@advancedleveldiagnostics]

Thanks!

[@lucasellyson6872]

Nice

[@sivucit]

Thanks!

[@advancedleveldiagnostics]

Thank you! I will answer your other questions a little later.

[@fdamien80]

A vid about your work truck would be nice

[@DJ-tn7vj]

Bro how you find the time to push out all these videos plus diagnose? Good work as always. Love the truck set up

[@advancedleveldiagnostics]

Thanks so much! A lot of late nights 😀

[@Malahoko]

@@advancedleveldiagnosticsyou a real one bro 🙏🏽 motivational

[@rodvan-zeller6360]

Excellent diagnostic procedure. I also like to watch the MAF follow the RPM, some models do not start without a cranking MAF signal.

[@advancedleveldiagnostics]

I've also had the opposite on a Mazda that had a MAF signal in run position, so it set a Ckp code. Since then I try to always check it.

[@rodvan-zeller6360]

@@advancedleveldiagnostics Interesting Mazda strategy, MAF signal present, thinks it is running without a crank signal.

[@abdul-kabiralegbe5660]

​@@advancedleveldiagnostics Can you recall if that was a faulty or aftermarket MAF sensor? Thanks.

[@advancedleveldiagnostics]

@@abdul-kabiralegbe5660 It was a faulty and aftermarket MAF lol Here's the link to the video on it: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iKrPZ4h6bLacj5o

[@abdul-kabiralegbe5660]

@@advancedleveldiagnostics Nice! Thanks for the clickable link.

[@zoharhagbi6685]

❤

[@manoramachandran9192]

❤❤❤❤❤

[@sivucit]

great content. quick question how do i know from ECM if it is an ouput from ECM or input to ECM. ANy tips will be greatly apprecaited

[@advancedleveldiagnostics]

Usually, B+ is a power source for a component. I look at where it's coming from. If it's a fuse, it's a power source. If it's heading to a component, then it's usually powering that up. On some manufacturers, you can find a chart showing what every wire should have and what it's doing.

[@sivucit]

@@advancedleveldiagnostics thanks much make more sense. Also what brand and model of amp meter you are using. You should try to do your tool video in detail and I am sure you get good views.

[@advancedleveldiagnostics]

amzn.to/3JCqm7l

[@DavidPham911]

Where did you get that ratchet knob for your Milwaukee there? I’ve been lookin on Amazon but no luck

[@advancedleveldiagnostics]

www.ratchetknob.com

[@tombeam]

Hmm, love the video, but you did take 2 nuts off the fp module, only put 1 back on?

[@advancedleveldiagnostics]

No, I put both back, I dropped 1 nut under the carpet, so it took some time to find it. So I cut out that part and just put the actual ratcheting it in. If you pay attention, you will see the cut.

[@tombeam]

@@advancedleveldiagnostics I don't pay that much attention lol

[@mrblonde2013]

Amazed that the shop can not even diag a fuelpump... thats like mechanics 101. Easy one for you this time. Thank you.

[@advancedleveldiagnostics]

It's a used car lot, I think they were convinced it was a security issue so they got thrown off.

[@mechanictechnician9206]

I need such an examiner, where can I find it? Thank you. 12:44

[@advancedleveldiagnostics]

www.jarheaddiag.com/shop/p/highamptestlight

[@calholli]

You were getting a little mixed up on the diagram.. That main relay was just feeding everything. It was feeding two lines back into the computer.. Feeding the fuel pump.. also activating that second relay.. and even feeding three more lines (off to the right). It seemed like things where going every which way.. but really it was just that main relay feeding everything. They didn't' draw it very intuitively

[@advancedleveldiagnostics]

Ye I know I was laughing at my self when I was editing it 🤣. I'm not sure what my issue was, my brain was just not getting it.

[@sivucit]

Hi, I dontated your channel, have fewquestions doesnt make sense to ask without donating.. 1. when you use godiag GT100+, DO you connect resistor between can hi and low to make it 60 ohm.. i bench tested with and without connecting resistor and it works fine. just curious.. 2.I know my ECM works fine, when do i know it doenst work when i connect to GT100+ any tips LIKE what protocol to choose.. 3. i see power source for ECM. This means power goes into ECM .. does this have to be connected to 15 swtich AT GT100+ OR JUST CONNECT 15 switch ONLY TO ECM input that calls Igntion switch. 4. i see many grounds at ECM atleast 4 pins.. do i need to connect to all of those, or just one is fine. which internally bridged..

[@advancedleveldiagnostics]

1. It really depends on the PCM I know on gm PCMs I never needed the resister but on some Chryslers you can only write with a resister. Sometimes I think you can read without a resister but can't write. The answer to most of your questions is going to be it depends, sorry 😔. 2. I'm sorry I don't really know about protocols I just use the oem data and the scantool does it automatically. 3. The 15 switch is for ignition, the 30 powers are for constant power. The reason they split it up is because sometimes during bench programming you will need to switch off the ignition while still having constant power. 4. Every PCM is different, I just connect too all the grounds just in case. For the PCMs that I do the most I have premade connectors that I bought that connect to the PCM and adapt to the go diag. Hope this helps!

[@sivucit]

@@advancedleveldiagnostics Thanks so much.

[@chip2036]

How many miles on that car?

[@advancedleveldiagnostics]

147,443

[@NextLevelAutoDiagnostics]

I just hate it when they squeeze the vehicle into a spot with no space. Then I have to start maneuvering.

[@advancedleveldiagnostics]

Or when they say it needs to be driven to act up and it has 6 cars blocking it in😀

[@HouseCallAutoRepair]

Tools used are in his Amazon Store!!

[@HouseCallAutoRepair]

UNI-T UT210D - purchased "D" has better features than the "E" version....

[@advancedleveldiagnostics]

I couldn't find a good chart showing the difference; what does D have over E?

[@scotts4125]

@@advancedleveldiagnostics Looks like there is a C,D and E. It think the difference is total current measurement and resolution.

[@scotts4125]

@@advancedleveldiagnostics After looking at the specs I think the E for what you do is actually the best version. It has better % specs at the lower amp range. Going to get one myself.

[@HouseCallAutoRepair]

@@advancedleveldiagnostics I ordered the "D". (just looked better, overall, to me...)