2015 Yamaha R3 Valve Clearance Check

[@noside346]

Thank you sir I write down all the infos on my note for reference. thanks for your vid though its yrs ago still helps others

[@u9Nails]

Does the valve cover need a gasket when its removed, or can it be reused? This is a very helpful video! I plan to check my valve clearances this winter when the weather is cold and wet. Also, change the brake fluid, coolant, fork oil, and repack bearings grease.

[@leitian7328]

The valve cover seal (not exactly a gasket, it's a long rubber seal ring thing around the edges) can be re-used most of the the time. No sealant / gasket maker needed either, just re-assemble as is. Yeah man off-season refreshing up is good for the bike ;)

[@user-hs2hd7wp9g]

Thanks for the video, straight to the point and great shots !

[@leitian7328]

You are welcome, glad I can help.

[@jaxtyncrew7664]

InstaBlaster...

[@benaustinn]

My 2020 r3 started to smoke. Im not losing coolant. Making me think its a valve bent or burnt or out of spec. Im not familiar with that as much. But am most likely in for a big job. No power lose yet and not sure yet, 4 valves per cylinder?

[@daneyong8811]

when should i do valve clearnce? i have a 2016 r3 and it has 25800km mileage on it.

[@leitian7328]

Look at the manual, I think most people recommend to do the valve check before the spec. The spec is something like 20k miles I think, but some of my friends checked the valve at 10k miles and some are slightly off already

[@briankeith757]

What are some symptoms of a r3 that would tell you it needs a valve adjustment?

[@leitian7328]

As far as I know, loose valves will create more "chatter clatter" noise from the valves. Tight valves can create starting issue if they are over a limit --- however if that happens, it could be already too late and you are on your way to burnt valves. As a result, I would suggest not to rely on symptons, but just rely on keeping track of checking intervals.

[@briankeith757]

@@leitian7328 I have a low idle ...sometimes the bike will shut off while ridding...I don't get an error code on the dash cluster either ..have you ever heard of this problem?

[@leitian7328]

Hi Brian, yes I had one bike which had that problem. In that specific case, it was because the throttle body was very dirty and thus air flow was too restricted. As far as I know, usually that kind of "low idle" issue is caused by too little or imbalanced leakage air, caused by either (1) dirty throttle body; (2) wrongly adjusted throttle stop; (3) dirty or broken idle air valve; (4) throttle bodies out of sync.

[@MusicalHifi54]

Awesome video! ✌🏼

[@niazayu9577]

My bike has clatering feeling in the engine when the bike is running. Can even feel it on my handle bars. My engine suddenly dies when riding but not often. And my bike feels like chocking power when i go over 120. Is it someting serious. My mileague is 100k over 3 years. Thanks.

[@leitian7328]

Hey, if your bike has quite high mileage and has issues with iing (rough idle, stalls, etc) a lot of times it’s issues with basic maintenance (e.g. spark plugs need to be changed), or throttle body itself got dirty or out of sync, thus it’s more difficult to hold an idle steadily. My strategy with older bikes for this kind of issues, is always keep up with maintenance and see what improves it. E.g. if your air filter is plugged up and spark plugs are 30k miles old, it can trick you into thinking your engine is on its way out, but reality is, Japanese street bikes are very very robust, as long as you do maintenance per factory spec, chances are it is just fine

[@iotecbasicosparaautomatiza4325]

What happens if cleareance is bigger that what manual says? How can it be solved?

[@leitian7328]

If clearance is bigger than spec, you’d need to swap the valve shims under the buckets to thicker shims.

[@シャフィクです]

I got some issue, my bike seems sometimes power loss and shut offf when i pull off the throttle..is it the valve clearance alrdy out of spec or need to check the throttle body first? Its already 40k km mileage

[@leitian7328]

Given that the power loss is in running when you pull off the throttle, I would suspect your problem is not from valve clearance and check the basic stuff first --- is the spark plugs still good? (R3 use regular copper plugs with short life span). Is idle somewhat good and consistent? (if not check throttle body bypass air, clean throttle body if possible). Also, make sure air filter is not way old and plugged up. I think it's a far stretch to only have that issue, because of valve clearance.

[@シャフィクです]

@@leitian7328 i think so, maybe my spark plug..idling also sometime low and high..last time i alrdy change the plug at 20k km, now its begin to happen again at 40k..maybe i need to replace the plug again..thanks..helps me alot

[@동욱입니다]

Thank you👍🏻

[@シャフィクです]

And i have one more question..whats are most spec of yamaha r3 valve specs range.. Is it 2mm to how much the thickness range value of the shim..can you help me sir..thanks alot

[@leitian7328]

On your swingarm there is a sticker, which lists out the valve specs range. It's in mm and if you convert into inches, I believe it's 4 to 7 thou intake, 8 to 12 exhaust.

[@marionlorizo6005]

the specs of the clearance are in the bottom of the valve bucket.. you can cross check through mirometer but for the 41k it wouldn't make that much difference, as long you follow the maitence sched. and using the specific lube..

[@sportsbiker7167]

My r3 did 22000 km do i need to check clearance or not necessary right now

[@user-hs2hd7wp9g]

You're good for another 18'000km (it's every 40'000km)

[@sportsbiker7167]

@@user-hs2hd7wp9g thanks

[@Mr.dominar85]

How many valves does R3 have per cylinder.. 2 or 4 valves..

[@leitian7328]

4, per cylinder

[@bigwheelsturning]

Lucky you; you didn't need to change a "spacer". PITA

[@leitian7328]

Indeed. I was like “phewwwwww” after finding out I didn’t need to adjust them :)

[@BEEBEE159]

@@leitian7328 Is it hard to change the shims? Do the shims just slide out or do you have to remove the cam shafts to access the buckets and shims?

[@leitian7328]

It’s not difficult, I did it twice already on my other R3’s. You need to take out the cam’s, and the buckets / shimes are right there for you to take out with a magnetic pick up tool.

[@BEEBEE159]

@@leitian7328 Oh okay, thanks for the info. Have you done the fork seals, yet? I wonder how difficult that is on the R3...Note, I don't have an R3; but I'm thinking to get one. As I do all my own maintenance and repairs, these are the first things I think about when getting a new machine. I hate it when things are super hard to work on.

[@leitian7328]

Hi, here is the good news: the first gen R3 has the most dinosaur like fork design. I could change the fork seals without any special tools, just my pvc home made seal driver thing (of course a seal driver helps). No need to compress springs since cap just comes out by unscrewing. So all in all very easy to work on. Second gen R3 has upside down forks so it’s a little harder, in compressing the springs.

[@シャフィクです]

Hello sir..i already check my valve.. On exhaust..i got 0.15, 0.20, 0.30, 0.20 And intake all still in spec, 0.10, 0.10, 0.15, 0.15.. But my bike really got power lost during accelerating.. Maybe the valve already burnt i think.. Mileage already 41k km.. All spark plug change.. The air filter maybe the cheap one..need to change again.. But i still thinking the valve already burnt.. Is it true? Or anything can you say?

[@leitian7328]

Hi, if you bike starts and idles well and smoothly, then I don't think your valves are already burnt. It really depends on how the power loss is --- if it is intermittent and random (loss --- no loss --- loss --- and suddenly no loss again), then very likely it's some electrical or fuel delivery issue. If the power loss is constant when you open the throttle WOT --- that is, you bike is always weak at WOT, then likely it's air delivery issue --- air get choked by either a way dirty air filter, or some kind of restriction in intake or exhaust (e.g. throttle plate cannot open all the way, which is rare). So.... air filter could be a culprit if the power loss is always there at WOT. For intermittent power loss then it's much more difficult to diagnose.

[@シャフィクです]

@@leitian7328 thanks so much sir . .i will start checking other part..because its sometimes power loss, somethimes not...maybe the other thing i need to check..thank you so much.

[@marionlorizo6005]

if everything is in specs try measuring the thickness of your clutches

[@eaaca9529]

如何调节正时？

[@leitian7328]

凸轮轴和曲轴飞轮的Timing标志（飞轮上一般写T）对齐的正时链条位置就是对的正时 ：）

[@SilverBulletTrade]

抢个小板凳

[@Longbk201]

沙发