HOW FAST is NEXT GEN 3D Printing? 247zero revisited!

[@HardCoil]

Thanks for you fantastic work. You allow part time tinkerers like me to follow a few footsteps behind so much easier.

[@247printing]

Thank you so much for these words - they mean a lot to me !

[@ModBotArmy]

Great video. This little beast still blows my mind. From my years of printers at 500 acceleration and 50-60mm/s print time it is taking me some time to push them haha. Perhaps this will be the year I won’t take it so east on the printers. Looking forward to seeing your next version 😊

[@247printing]

Hey Dan, thanks a lot! I'd love to see you getting into the speed stuff... I mean.. You have great printers for that!

[@alejandroperez5368]

You can't print much faster than that if you need durable functional parts. The faster you print, the weaker the parts. No one seems to mention this.

[@MatrixRay19]

I honestly hope you analyze reworking the frame, even if it's just to add an extrusion in the front, FailFast has found that doing that alone helps a lot. My other take would be to go fully unsupported rail but really stiff AB joints, that would maybe prevent torsion better.

[@ferdinandhenkel4567]

Maybe also rebuild with 2020 extrusions?

[@MatrixRay19]

@@ferdinandhenkel4567 why stop at 2020, go bigger :P

[@247printing]

I totally agree!

[@ferdinandhenkel4567]

@@MatrixRay19 pretty sure 2020 is enough. Voron 2.4 s use it, which move heavier toolhead and have a way larger frame. 3030 seems overkill

[@MatrixRay19]

@@ferdinandhenkel4567 I agree, said it mostly as a joke. I do however think that maybe also adding more extrusions, at mid sections could help as well.

[@MandicReally]

Another excellent video Albert! Love to see the progress. Gives me dangerous ideas for my projects...

[@247printing]

Thanks a lot Alan! Can't wait to see your dangerous ideas!

[@Lucas_sGarage]

I remember when your channel just had started, I'm glad to see you grow, my friend

[@247printing]

Thanks a lot my friend - always a pleasure to read you!

[@b-roll4881]

Thanks!

[@247printing]

THANKY YOU, so much!

[@Kosh42EFG]

Best video yet. Personally printing fast benchie shaped objects isn't for me (but congrats on that silly fast time) so this one digging in to the how to take that and apply to real world printing is more up my street.

[@247printing]

Thanks a lot! Yes that benchy speedprinting is kind of special, but in the end: It was the enabler for this channel!

[@75echo]

Nicely done mate, nice video. its hard these days to find proper scientific youtube channels that are not that sensationalised or drama driven just for views.

[@PrintingPerspective]

From an enthusiast standpoint, this is so amazing, I love that the fans alone draw 150W ;D and you need hearing protection! But it must be so much FUN to design, test, and push beyond the limits :)

[@247printing]

Thanks a lot and oh yes: It was a lot of fun work in 2021 - unfortunately I didn't have as much time as I wanted for the stuff, but it works anyways :-)

[@surronzak8154]

At a certain point the air pushed on the part will be the limiting factor ^^ , imagine you need so much cooling power your extruded line gets pushed away befor it cools and attach to the previous line Xp

[@boryshacker]

i can hear the passion in every word! well done! kinda curious if a cross gantry v0 can go faster...

[@247printing]

Thanks a lot!!! I need to build one this year for sure!

[@plixplux]

The filament must flow! Great vid as always =))) Really, really looking forward to finding out about the changes to the design in the next!

[@247printing]

THANKS a lot!

[@muhukujin]

Tolle Arbeit und es ist echt Klasse, dass es so Leute wie dich gibt, die die Grenzen der aktuellen Technik weiter ausloten. Ich denke in dem Design ist noch viel Potenzial, wie eine Carbon X-Achse oder CNC gefräste X-Achse (siehe VZ-Bot), hochsetzen (bzw. Mittig der X-Achse ausrichten) und abstützen des Hotends um die Hebelwirkung und Schwingungen weiter zu reduzieren, Versteifung des Rahmens mit einer vorderen Querstrebe (abnehmbar/Klappbar), Wandbefestigung des Druckers, große Radiallüfter statt der pabst Lüfter für mehr Druck bei niedrigerer Lärmbelästigung oder Ansaugschalldämpfer für die Pabst Lüfter, Abstützung oder Führung des Druckbetts an der Vorderseite, Doppelter Bowden Extruder für mehr Kontaktfläche. Es gibt noch andere Themen aber dann wird es schon recht komplex. Viel Erfolg noch :)

[@grabler20]

i want to give this more than just one thumbs up! good stuff! keept it up:) Servus

[@247printing]

Oh man, thank you so much!

[@curiouscatlabincgetsworrie7755]

Seeing my printer of choice the FLSUN v400 as a runner up under this conditions is kind of inspiring. And so far it's been behaving flawlessly. Now I need to tune it properly to have it keep working not this fast but consistently and reliably fast. And I'm not is such a hurry, after all. Also it's comparably much less noisy than any of this.

[@TrailFeatures]

Excited to see what’s next!

[@spaghootus9473]

Have you considered placing the hotend fan on an external frame above the printer and piping the air to the nozzle through some form of lightweight tube? It would get rid of a few extra grams and also allow you to use a more powerful fan. As for the tube: There might be lightweight fabrics available on the market that can be used to sew an airduct.

[@graysonsmith7031]

I'm convinced the next way to increase printing speed is to move both the nozzle and bed in opposing directions (dual corexy). Ideally the ratio of travel of both the nozzle and bed would be such that their momentums cancel out (i.e. if the bed was 2x the mass of the nozzle head then the bed would travel half the distance and thus the speed in the opposite direction of the nozzle head) and ideally the nozzle weight and bed weight would be the same (assuming they're already as light as possible). For the same effective printing speed you could halve the acceleration/speed the motors need to create while also cancelling out vibrations from the printer throwing itself around (equal and opposing momentum would meant the rig is stationary). For the same acceleration per motor you would double the speed. Just hope for good bed adhesion if the ratios work out that your bed needs to move more.

[@oliverer3]

Turn your bed slinger into a bed railgun!

[@SianaGearz]

Wtf. Just put the printer on some bearings and mount it with soft rubber bands on all corners. Then it will do just that mass balanced moves and return to centre at moderate speed acceleration such as not to run away. But you don't want to introduce more movement axis than necessary into the actual mechanism since they'll all add tolerance play and distortion and these will all add up.

[@oliverer3]

@@SianaGearz I feel like it would be difficult to prevent that from sometimes causing resonant oscillation given the highly dynamic nature of 3D printer acceleration and forces.

[@lausi772]

I absolutely loved this video!!!! Thanks for sharing your expertise 🤓🤓🤓🤓 this was so well explained. 👍

[@247printing]

Thanks a lot Lausi!

[@apaskiewicz]

Brother, your channel is so legit. I'm really glad you started it. I have learned so much from you in a few videos, so keep spittin that fire! ❤‍🔥❤‍🔥🔥🔥

[@247printing]

THX !

[@ifrommygravewillrise]

I read this morning that toroidal shaped fan blades are much quieter and more efficient than standard blades.

[@247printing]

Thanks a lot! I'll check it out - maybe there is a solution for this to integrate.

[@thelightspeed3d712]

Love this channel man. So good.

[@247printing]

Thanks a lot mate! Nice to see you again!

[@hazonku]

This thing is becoming a monster. Can't wait to see what you come up with for the torsion issue.

[@247printing]

Thank you! - that's maybe the most interesting part I have for that!

[@deathlyarrow264]

Can wait to see the next part,

[@nightfighter78]

Hello, first time on your channel. You have very well edited videos and especially good information on your videos. I have to say, this is the good stuff concerning 3d printing. Thumbs up !

[@mistaecco]

Absolutely insane. Mad science-style. I like it. Makes me wonder how much air drag you're getting on those fins, though. I look forward to updates!

[@ThatGuy-fi9bm]

Excited to see what next! Break the barriers!

[@3wakingd3ad]

Love your dedication to insane print times AND quality. Weird questions have you experimented with something like air assist on laser cutters? A pump instead of fans?

[@mistaecco]

Bowden fans?? I like it!!

[@brandonb6164]

Very cool work. Good luck on your project. I'm very excited about the next episode.

[@Nordern]

They are currently difficult to get ahold of, but there are CHT volcano nozzles in existence, i'm not sure if they are significantly better than the volcano adapter though Is there any ceramic heater like the Rapido's that allows a full lenght Volcano nozzle to fit in it? Been thinking about getting one but want to be able to push as much filament as possible with it

[@247printing]

The rapido UHF supports (CHT) volcano nozzles, yes!

[@360worldviews4]

Nice job ! I like the first version of this printer looking forward to see the upgrades!

[@KnarbMakes]

Wow, that's a fast printer, lol!

[@WF3D]

This thing is a best. Awesome what you accomplished and curious what you will achieve

[@247printing]

Servus Werner, thanks a lot for stopping by and leaving a comment 😍

[@WF3D]

@@247printing Sure thing! Btw I ment *beast 😁

[@247printing]

@@WF3D got it 👍

[@Serhat_aydin]

For the ones whose hearing Uzy for the first time; it has been more than a month I've been using. Never had any issues; had perfect prints so far. Give it a chance and you will never regret👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@247printing]

I was skeptical, but I tested it beforehand and it's great! Even though it's an paid advertisement and I am the one who was paid: Yes, it's just good.

[@thebigb1286]

Just some thoughts on your upgrades. For the air flow, you could use some pneumatic tubes coming in the top like you're wires. You can blow air in it to get the airflow, with less power and noise, and about the same weight. Triangle Labs makes the Rapido Hot end which they say will go up to 75mm3/s. This seems like BS, but if it's not, there you go. You can make the frame more stiff with carbon fiber parts, they make race cars that can do similar things to what your looking for all the time, or you could use a very interesting material: Boron fiber. It's stronger, stiffer, and cheaper, but more delicate than CF. Boron Fiber is twice the stiffness of steel and light weight too. It would be interesting to see. Either way I think you'll get the stiffness you want.

[@sabinespeed4146]

I would think an airbrush compressor would be enough flow as well as being reasonably quiet.

[@Ataraxia_Atom]

I just got a new extruder for my FL sun to try and dial up my print speed. Love the content

[@millomaker]

Amazing work, a X axis in carbon like the bambu lab can work instead of the 3d printed one. But idk if carbon fiber things like that exist 🧐

[@antronk]

Build a vzBot!

[@247printing]

Some day I NEED to! Maybe >this< Next Gen is even four times faster?

[@bleach_drink_me]

You should build a vzbot.

[@ryangamble5131]

@@247printing I'd love to see you build the VZ kit from mellow! This video was fantastic as well.

[@Basement_CNC]

​@@247printing ido t know if a annex engineering k3 would be faster tan the vzBot or a v0.2, since its built like a TANK , althoug its not the lightest printhead 😮 and its quite unknown bist du österreicher ?? der abspann verrät einiges 😂

[@wilurbean]

you know, if you had two steppers at each point, and they spun in opposite directions (like with a gear or something to compensate for direction), you would have a lot less resonance. The opposing motions would cancel forces and keep them from going into the frame.

[@hd-be7di]

Yep that's a "4WD" setup on fast CoreXY printers like the VzBot

[@KlaudiusL]

Absolutely insane .. you've gained a subscriber 👍

[@247printing]

Thanks a lot!

[@Higlac89]

Just want to say that I like how the print in the bottom left of the intro matches the beat of the music.

[@247printing]

You have a very good eye for that - I like editing to music a lot!

[@erikmoore7402]

Wow. Just started 3d printing.... sooo this blows my mind lol. Nice work

[@247printing]

I hope that's the start of a nice passion and more for you!

[@ItsNonyaBusiness]

With so much cooling and such printing speed, layer adhesion surely suffers. I'd love to see strength test comparisons between fast and slow prints! Keep it up 💪💪💪

[@daliasprints9798]

It doesn't. If you have poor layer adhesion from speed/cooling it means your temperature is too low - either the base temp or from cooling hitting the nozzle and making a big temp gradient between it and the thermistor. Better shields/socks that insulate the nozzle almost all the way to the tip will solve the latter.

[@247printing]

I'd also love to see that once and for all! I bet CNC Kitchen will do this some day

[@alejandroperez5368]

@@daliasprints9798It does matter. The faster you print, the worse is layer adhesion. CNC Kitchen did make a video about explaining how cooling affects it. Since printing faster requires more cooling, guess you can only print decorative toys at those speeds.

[@daliasprints9798]

@@alejandroperez5368 You can keep citing the results of someone who's smart but knows virtually nothing about fast printing, or ask people who actually know this stuff. It's just not his area of expertise or interest.

[@ItsNonyaBusiness]

From a quick search online some tests show better layer adhesion with speed and some show the opposite. Seems like as with most things this matter is situation dependent (your specific printer/filament/settings)... Another good reason to build a test rig and start doing my own research! 😉

[@dmitrii6550]

PC's usually use larger diameter fans to quite them down which could be a solution for static fans. As for warping: when pushing things to the extreme, probably a thorough air flow simulation and optimization is required to better target the printed layer without cooling a big chung of the part(which is hard work but could have high benefits). Also the gantry could be made from 2 carbon fiber tubes with linear rail attached to them to increase stiffness (i don't think it will increase the weight of the gantry)

[@ooooooo0]

You could use an air compressor with a pipe removing the fan on the head.

[@ooooooo0]

Don't know if it possible but cooling an air compressor with a peltier.

[@ooooooo0]

Also a counter weight on the base of the printer repelling the movement might help.

[@stefanrussi6408]

Very nice work! What about channeling air inside a tube and blow it directly where its needed (like the bowdentubes for the filament but maybe bigger) instead of blowing air all over the plane? This makes the head maybe even lighter and the air could be cooled down with a liquid cooling system and a radiator or with peltier elements... just a thought

[@MrBigbofy]

Very Good Idea, very good Proposal, it should be brought to Reality

[@kennethbeal]

@6:00 you talk about moving the filament fast enough. Any thought to a "single print head with dual filament feed"? Could feed it two of the same color, and then the "feed speed" is only half, for each. Could also mix colors.

[@gljay]

Run that printer in a walkin freezer. That will increase the cooling quite a bit. Bed heating may suffer tho.

[@mikejones-vd3fg]

Very cool, you should check out the solid state cooling they've showed off at CES, literally no moving parts , would bring down printing head weight a ton and with its super fast jetstream of air offer way better cooling, which could I bet almost double printing speeds of todays printers while maintaing the same quality. Just guessing but these coolers seem next gen ,and like every video suggests, cooling is still a huge obstacle for printing speed, its the main one in computing speed, hence the motivation for these coolers , they can apparently give 15-25w laptop cpus another 5-10w of heard room which is pretty remarkable, doing with less power and less form factor too. Someone needs to put one of these on an Ender asap, Frore Systems is the company and i seen the video from PCWorld's channel covering CES from a few days ago. It looks like a flat lithium battery that sucks air in from one side and blow it at high speeds out the other. Many "vibrating membranes" at supersonic speeds are responsible for this when voltage is applied is basically how it works.

[@Nelo390]

That did have moving parts, but yeah, could be helpful.

[@247printing]

THANK YOU! Saved your great comment for further investigation!

[@a_pullin]

Add compound angles to the cooling duct setup, leverage vorticity to make an upwards cooling tornado, up and out of the machine.

[@NeoAcheron]

YAY! I'm in the video! Your videos inspired me to also take part in the race!

[@247printing]

YAYYY! That's great to read - keep it up!

[@LucasModelrailroad]

Hi, eine sehr schöne Entwicklung deines Druckers!!!! Ich freue mich schon auf die Upgrades und kommenden Videos :) Viele Grüße/ Luca

[@247printing]

Hey Luca, vielen Dank! Freut mich sehr wieder von dir zu lesen 🥰

[@LucasModelrailroad]

@@247printing Hi Albert, ja ich habe in letzter Zeit viel zu tun gehabt, auch mit der Schule ect... Deine Videos habe ich natürlich die ganze Zeit angeschaut! 😁 Ich habe ja auch mal gedacht einen Voron 0.0 zu bauen, war mir da immer unschlüssig. Aber als du deine Dateien veröffentlicht hast war das anders! Ich habe mir die STLs schon runter geladen und dir auch Trinkgeld da gelassen. Mach weiter so mit deinem Content 🙋‍♂️ Viele Grüße/ Luca 🤗

[@247printing]

Mega cool, danke dir! Bin gespannt was rauskommt bei dir!

[@LucasModelrailroad]

@@247printing Gerne und danke!

[@raeliean]

I've been thinking about this - because industrial pick-n-place machines reach insane speeds with extreme accuracy. I believe the key there is the rigidity and pitch of the ball-screw, it allows the toolhead to move faster with less stepper motor turns, which gives it the speed. Have you done any tests or thought about replacing the belts with ballscrews to increase rigidity and speed? As far as the plastic melting that's just some crazy output you need. Are you using 1.75mm or 3mm filament? I havent' done any research here but given the volume you need to push and the enhanced rigidity of 3.0mm I imagine it would help with extruding if you arent' already using it. Curious to know. Thanks for all the work you do and pushing the 3D printing community to the next level! :)

[@RamsesTheFourth]

But those machines use linear magnetic motors. Not ball screws. Also they have encoders for feedback, so no step skips are happening. Also the machines weigh a ton, so it does not wobble at all during the movement.

[@thegchamp]

Is there any reason you don't use the RatRig V-Core 3 in your comparisons?

[@247printing]

Atm it's not in it's original state and: It's out of order for some reasons... I hope I can get back to it soon and include it (default and modded as also "Next Gen").

[@ericlotze7724]

Would the higher thermal conductivity of the Diamondback Nozzles PCD help reduce any bottleneck at all, or not really?

[@simontanguay3619]

I don't think it is as good as a CHT, even less for a CHT Volcano, in terms of flow

[@ericlotze7724]

@@simontanguay3619 Now we need a solid chunk of PCD with those CHT Tubes…

[@simontanguay3619]

Well there already is a bimetal cht nozzle that exists, both in regular and volcano length. The inner cht geometry is thin vanadium steel for abrasion resistance and the rest is nickel plated copper. Already pretty neat if you want an abrasive-resistant cht.

[@AwaywithCharles]

Great content! I love your approach and to topics discussed. Have you looked into hybrid extruders? I have a Nimble Giddy on order that I am excited to give a go and is looking like a viable option from the herera!

[@247printing]

Thanks a lot! I'll check that out - sounds very interesting!

[@oliverer3]

Have you tried mounting the extruder above the printer at all? I feel like straightening out the bowden tube might significantly decrease the resistance for your extruder.

[@MrDarkdrago74]

Impressive, i like the real calculation behind a 3D printer. I love your design and the test of Stephane. I'm looking forward to your next upgrades and designs. M4 voron extruder is not good enough ? just wondering. cheers!

[@247printing]

Thanks man! The M4 looks very good, yes - didn't have the opportunity (and parts) in order to build it yet.

[@ChristophLehner]

This is some premium content ❤️

[@247printing]

And that’s a premium comment for my heart!

[@Simofailla]

it would be interesting to think of a printer with the speed of this one but also with the table moving in the opposite direction so as to add inverse speed

[@xx1219]

Hold up that’s a genius idea, has anyone done it before?

[@jeffreyepiscopo]

This is awesome. Have you seen the new Bowden mini stealthburner? I wonder how much that weighs compared to what you’ve got

[@247printing]

Thanks! Yes I've seen it, I'll definitely print it for check

[@jeffreyepiscopo]

@@247printing do you use the Voron recommended settings for everything? 5 top/bottom layers, 4 walls, 40% infill?

[@247printing]

Normally yes! In some cases I lower the values (for example skirts).

[@AnYaDang]

I have an idea for you. Instead of reducing your mass - triple it. But triple it with counterweights you accelerate in the opposite direction of the tool head to cancel out the X and Y forces.

[@eurosat7]

Sehr schön. Es macht mir echt Spaß zu sehen, wie du die Sachen optimierst.Mal sehen wie weit du kommst :D

[@Nici619]

Immer weiter so. Dieser Kanal ist ein kleines Einhorn. Bin selbst gerade dabei einen Ender 2 Pro so sehr auszureizen wie möglich

[@247printing]

Danke! Viel Spaß mit deinem Ender 3 pro (?) !

[@justsomeguywashwd_jbm821]

Just wondering, with the extruder have you considered trying... I forget what others have called it... a sort of remote-direct extruder? In case you're not familiar, it's where you have the motor mounted to the main chassis, & use 1 of those flexible shaft things (i.e. like those used as Dremel accessories) to transfer the power to the actual extruder mechanism on the print head. I don't how beneficial it would be, but it'd be interesting to see.

[@247printing]

It’s called Flex3drive 👍

[@justsomeguywashwd_jbm821]

@@247printing Ah, right. Thanks. 👍

[@MrTree421]

That is impressive as fuck! Also you telling the viewer you are not telling them that subscribing liking and commenting will help 247 brought me here. Cause I thought it's a funny way to tell your viewers to do those things.

[@247printing]

That's a very important open question, yes. I don't have equipment in order to test this properly atm. We'll see if Stefan is going to do this some day - he hast he printers and machine for that.

[@alexfish8926]

now imagine you had two of these, one upside down, printing onto the same base from opposite sides to halve the print time, maybe with a thin filament sheet as a base plate to allow for a cohesive print.

[@247printing]

That sounds SUPER EXCITING, because... I happen to have there of them :-)

[@bigfishoutofwater3135]

I wonder if a laser could keep the model warm enough to not warp without warming the nozzle. I also wonder if an external positioning system could help give the exact position of the print head to correct errors from acceleration. Could also precool the air the fans are blowing to get the same cooling capacity with lower fan speed or even go to more exotic cooling such as liquid nitrogen.

[@247printing]

Thanks a lot for your great input, I'll save this for further consideration!

[@josephbroughton7931]

Absolutely incredible!

[@Tankbrusher]

Inhaltlich hab ich genau das gesucht! Danke Dir. Hab grad zwei last Gen Drucker ,,geklippert" und mit tmc2208/9 bestückt. Beide laufen leise und gut, jedoch gedeckelt durch die Creality Hot Ends auf 10mm³/s. Wenn ich den Flaschenhals entferne, hat ein CoreXY noch immer einen rund 30% Geschwindigkeitsvorteil.

[@247printing]

Danke dir! Schau dir evtl auch mein “How fast is Klipper really?” Video an - ggf ist das auch interessant für dich

[@MakerBees333]

I had to look it up it was over a year ago I suggested the 247 Zero name… time flies. Did you officially get the name yet? Or is it still a nickname. Either way I am stoked you have been so successful!❤❤

[@247printing]

Oh thanks Theodore! I am not sure what to do to get that officially? Atm I still consider it as a Nickname yes!

[@MakerBees333]

@@247printing Yeah, it is probably not worth your time, they have a whole board of people to review and decide that stuff. I just thought maybe they were recognizing your contributions to the space and reached out to you… a long shot but not impossible.

[@247printing]

@@MakerBees333 ah, you mean the Voron guys? I asked for V0.247, but they decided against it and it was logical for me.

[@MakerBees333]

@@247printing That’s too bad, that even fits their naming scheme. 🙃 they are just missing out . 😉

[@id104335409]

I would like to ask you something. Is printer head cooling needed at these speeds? After all you are feeding it quite a lot of cold plastic. Maybe cooling is only needed at that part when you stop extruding. If there is no need for cooling it would make the extruder a lot lighter. But of thermal creep is still a thing it would what? Preheat the plastic? Or clog the feeder wheel with molten plastic?

[@247printing]

You mean no heat sink cooling for the cold part? Not sure, but there are some theories about this!

[@naidta9802]

Wohooo can't wait for the next part 👏👏👏👏👏

[@av2245]

Awesome work! I love to see people pushing the boundaries of 3d printing. Although it is fast, I think you will always run into the limitations of physics and the fluid dynamics of the material. This is a great example of quality vs quantity. If you are looking for precise prints that require engineering quality and need to have tight tolerances and integrity, fast printing just doesnt seem to work. Even if you tightened the frame up to be as solid as possible, I dont think the quality would ever compare to something printed slow. I have yet to see the quality of a fast print compare to a slow print.

[@daliasprints9798]

You should look at Annex Engineering printers which are contrary to basically everything you just said.

[@p_serdiuk]

Can you make a parts list for this variant of the Voron v0 when you will eventually make the new video? Some parts could already be acquired now I think.

[@247printing]

I'll do, yes!

[@bzqp2]

I haven't been so excited with DIY printers since the RepRap times. Voron is a beast!

[@247printing]

Great to hear 🤩

[@sixstringstruggle6508]

CNC kitchen showed and induction heating hot end in a recent video from a 3 D printing convention that you should look into.

[@247printing]

I am in contact 👍

[@alainthire]

Absolutely amazing video!

[@247printing]

Hey Alain, thanks a lot! See you on Twitter ;-)

[@gregorypfeifer9117]

I'm curious if something like the Ino trident induction hot end would benefit this build

[@247printing]

NDA is on the way ;-)

[@ThePosticeage]

The frame mounted part cooling is a very cool idea. Can save weight for fans and wirings, even mounting bolts. You could find a way to receive supplied air more effectively and to control air speed based on the head acceleration. Air speed may have to be controled too according to required cooling for varying melt volume. Keep it up!!!

[@247printing]

Nice idea! I'll keep that in mind 👍

[@Grimmwoldds]

@@247printing Have you considered also replacing your delta fans with Artic S4028-6K fans in that configuration? If you can get them in a 5 pack, they're about 40 USD on amazon(which is far less than those deltas cost). They're the same dimensions and type of fan as those deltas, but far far far lower RPM(and therefore lower noise, amperage, air flow volume/static pressure), Since they're that same dimensions and they're normal 4 pin/12V fans, they should be a drop in replacement to lower everything down to "sufficient and not requiring hearing protection nor a second mortgage."

[@ericlotze7724]

The makers of the 3D Benchy made this neat print called “Smartphone Photo Studio for #3DBenchy and tiny stuff”. I think this would be a great way to get documentation of how each benchy printed in a nice objective manner. Any thoughts on this?

[@247printing]

Thank you - saved your comment for further investigation!

[@chores_kr]

what your cinematic?

[@morbus5726]

ooh the uzy fialment looks nice. kinda like prusament but half the price.

[@deathlyarrow264]

I have placed my order gonna try the premium ones they say this is better tolerance than prusament 0.01mm

[@247printing]

It's really great stuff. I was paid for the advertisement, but it's just really good.

[@stiffler8632]

With the right settings, the X1 Carbon needs 14min 58s for a speedbenchy (Benchy according to rules).

[@247printing]

I used default slicer settings and set them according to the rules. You can optimize each benchy and print of those (also the 247zero one), but that's not the idea here.

[@stiffler8632]

@@247printing You said you wanted an idea why it slows down so much in some spots. The answer is simple, just set the acceleration to the maximum allowed settings of Bambu, so it's all within the rules! The Bambu allowed values can be found in the printer settings under Motion ability. If you use these values, the Benchy takes 13min 21s. And uncheck the Filament settings-->Cooling--> Slow down for overhangs and bridges.

[@stiffler8632]

@@247printing kzbin.info/www/bejne/f6u6oImQmM5nr7M

[@JamieHarveyJr]

The Phaetus Rapido UHF with a Bondtech CHT volcano nozzle has been VERY good at balancing quality and flow for my rigs👍🏻 (0.4mm btw)

[@leonartou]

Yep, Ive seen people do like 70mm³/s flow on it.

[@joelguay4452]

Could you use high static pressure low rpm fan to deliver pin point cooling via "Bowden" tube? Then you could have no fan on the head, lower noise and very targeted cooling.

[@247printing]

Great idea!

[@NikolaTuring-o2w]

you can maybe add closed loop driver boards to force the printer in a more "stable mode"

[@matthewkirk9551]

Do you have any opinions about CoreXY vs a cross-rail design (like the Annex K3)? It seems like a cross rail design could be built much stiffer, at the expense of weight of course

[@247printing]

CroXY might be the future!

[@Tomatendose]

How does the power consumption compare with all the 3D printers tested? In addition to the time savings, the electricity costs should also be considered. The acquisition costs are excluded, as these are test systems.

[@shadowlordalpha]

Just a question, could you use a 3d printed part to redirect some of the air from the part cooling fans (there is a lot of air from them) to the hotends cooling fins and get rid of the fan and attachment hardware for it? if so that could save you a cunk of weight from your moving mass

[@247printing]

Good thinking! That topic is on the list, yes 👍

[@shadowlordalpha]

@@247printing Great to hear! looking forward to the 1 minute bencies :P

[@shadowlordalpha]

@@247printing How needed is the full bed as well? With the speed and cooling i have seen in most of your videos it seems like you could basically just put a sheet of metal or other surface down without a heater and possibly be fine

[@DiavloPL]

I understand that this run for speed essentially speeds up the process of makin "nextgen" printers, but the real usability can in my opinion only be reached for larger printers. The small bed printers cannot have prints that will take really long time, because there is not enough place for them either way. Any future plans to really go for the proper "hardening" of the setups for the bigger bed size? The real benefits of fast prints only shows then, as 24h or more prints are really the problem.

[@GreenlandRobot]

Hopefully many of the learnings from printing small things very fast can be replicated on large format printers. Getting a 5-10x speedup on a multi-day print would be huge.

[@247printing]

Totally right! You'd need automatic removal to take full advantage for production - but there is still prototyping of smaller parts for example

[@bujin5455]

It's like he's trying to R&D the ultimate FDM printer. Hope that when he finally get's it all sorted out that he provides a kit, or something, for the rest of us who aren't as diehard as he is.

[@247printing]

Wow thank you! If I would design the ultimate FDM printer it would be kind of a different base as the V0. We'll see, maybe..............

[@kacpersotwinski2966]

How about removing hotend fans and substitute them with a fanduct conected to the compressor? Lower weight, higher airflow....

[@Ken-nv2hl]

Can you save even more weight by removing the fan from the extruder head and use an external compressor then plumb it to the extruder to cool it down?

[@markos3803]

what do you think about starting with a ratrig vcore 200 as a base, it's much more rigid than the voron v0.1 as a frame and if fitted with a bowden hotend and a carbon fiber 200mm gantry as well as a driller linear rail and all of your cooling mods etc then maybe we could see superior results. What do you think?

[@247printing]

You are absolutely right 👍 There might be plans for this or quite similar 😬

[@simontanguay3619]

Have you tried the new CHT Volcano? No more need for adapters, and when combined with a rapido hotend it is blazing fast. For the frame, why not go with a BoxZero style setup, but with 2020 extrusions? Like the Tiny-M does for instance. It would be much stiffer that way. Love the idea for the kirigami bed mount hinted in the video. And for side cooling noise, well, why not use some noctua or the like? Not talking about the small guys here like the 4010, 4020 or 6025. They don't have nearly enough airflow. I am thinking about the A12 (or maybe the incoming next-gen A14). A pair of them could fit on each side. 4 fans. 240 CFM total and low noise level. Opinions?

[@247printing]

Yes, I bought some Volcano CHTs in order to use them next. Advantage of the adapter: You can use all of your standard nozzles. Thanks for all the other ideas! Changing the frame would be a completely new printer though - atm that's not the idea, but yes: 2020 or maybe even 3030 would help A LOT!

[@simontanguay3619]

@@247printing I can't deny that adapters are useful: I use the mellow V6 Plus on my setup so that my regular sized diamondback can fit in the rapido uhf when printing pa-cf. But yeah, changing the frame is a bit bigger modification. Still, I encourage you to look up the githubs for the Boxzero and Tiny-M mods if you haven't already. It might inspire you.

[@hunter-ie8mv]

For the torsion aspect I would recomand printing it with channels and adding materials later on such as carbon fiber sheets. This could have drastic efeect on stiffness while still being relatively cheap to do.

[@Jan-pz5ox]

i can't wait to see the next upgrade video. ;-)

[@JonS]

I have the CNCed aluminum X-Beam from Fabreeko that I won on Fail Fast's stream to put on mine. I'm also going to use the Kirigami bed.

[@247printing]

Hey Jon! I also have that one here. Along with two other concepts for a light(er)-weight purpose...pssssstt....

[@OtherTNSEE]

Another way to reduce weight, take a look at Frore Systems AirJets. You can probably look their CES demo up here on youtube. Crazy small, and way quieter, while still putting out some serious CFM.

[@SirHackaL0t.]

Reminds me of Titans of CNC for speed. I never knew that 3D printers could go this fast! Awesome.