2nd Gen Ford Escape Brake Caliper Replacement

[@trinitybruns]

Years 08 and 09 switched to the 9mm. 2010 and after went back to 7mm for the pins. I am sure someone answered this ages ago, just want to pop it back up to the top.

[@StevesGarage]

Thanks for the comment! At the time of this video I couldn't find any concrete information, so I appreciate the follow up details. I'll pin your comment so others will see it!

[@calebjohnson9123]

Thank you so much! They quoted me over $900 to change my right caliper and both break lines, but my friend and I changed it by watching your video, and saved a whole lot of money! It took 5 hours which isn't bad at all, and that was mostly trying to find the correct sizes of things and making due with what we have. :) my first time doing mechanic work! Appreciate your thorough video!

[@StevesGarage]

Thanks for commenting! That's awesome! It's really not a hard job for how much they charge to swap a caliper. Glad you got your feet wet in some car work, it only gets easier the more you do. I'm glad the video helped out so much.

[@MrLeeh380]

This guy Steve is fast, thorough, and practical. Thank you

[@StevesGarage]

Exactly what I'm going for! Thanks for the comment.

[@itsgonnarain6]

If you are nervous about doing this yourself, don't be! Just go for it! It really is simple. I have very basic car knowledge, just basically do my own oil changes. But I was able to get this done in an hour with no issues. The nice part now is that I fully understand how the breaking system works and will be replacing my own breaks myself from now on. Just go for it, you got this! Thank you so much for this video!

[@StevesGarage]

Thank you for this great comment! My father always says 'it's just nuts and bolts'. I keep that in mind when I'm feeling overwhelmed or intimidated by a job. Just stay organized, follow instructions, and you'll be good! I'm glad my video helped you out and you feel more confident about working on your car! It's a great feeling when you fix it yourself - both the accomplishment and seeing how much money you saved!

[@genocap198]

This is a great video I love how it is straight to the point and it also helped thoroughly and easily how you explained everything that was pertinent to complete this I appreciate it and also you and your time thank you sir

[@StevesGarage]

Glad it helped! It's the exact reason I started making videos. Simple but thorough explanation.

[@jimmywilson1388]

Well at least you showed the sliders for a couple seconds… Most folks just slap it back on like there’s no chance the slider pins could be sticky… I guess it’s time to go learn by myself

[@StevesGarage]

If you'd like you can check out my other video that's linked in this one where I replace the pads and rotors. I cover greasing and installing the slide pins in more detail in that one. The reason I glossed over the slide pins in this video was because the caliper came with the bracket already installed. Because it was all new and together, I didn't touch them. You're totally right that they should be cleaned and greased any time you remove them.

[@jimmywilson1388]

@@StevesGarage I was about to tear into the brakes and the bottom fell out…😑 Hopefully it’ll quit raining soon and I can go work on them… I know the sliders are sticky because the brakes were getting hot enough to smell them and when I bled the brakes last night it had a good stream of fluid coming out so it’s definitely not the brake hose. Thanks for the video, I’ve never worked on those type of brakes and I just like to glance at everything before jumping head first into something… It’s better than getting a surprise that you don’t want or something… Lmao

[@StevesGarage]

@@jimmywilson1388 Totally understand wanting an overview before jumping in. Remember you could also have a bad caliper if your brakes are sticking! Glad the videos helped, hopefully the weather cooperated.

[@wilE6764]

Very informative thanks ..one question is it easier to put the pads and caliper and rotor onto the bracket first..then just bolt on the bracket?

[@StevesGarage]

Glad you liked it! You can honestly do it however you want. In the video I put it all together and stuck it on the hub, but you can just as easily do it how you stated. The only thing if you bolt the caliper to the bracket off the car, make sure those slide pins are tight once it's on the car.

[@wilE6764]

@@StevesGarage ok thanks brother!

[@StevesGarage]

@@wilE6764 You got it, enjoy the new brakes!

[@igorgodoroja4967]

Thank you brother!)

[@StevesGarage]

You got it. Happy to help!

[@Terpfan007]

Thanks for making this!

[@StevesGarage]

You got it, thanks for watching and commenting!

[@Juve163]

You saved me a headache 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼

[@StevesGarage]

Awesome!

[@ArturStateSide]

Hi, may I ask you to tell me where can I buy repair kit with Piston or Calipers for Ford Escape 08 V6 3.0 FWD and with rear drum brakes? I bought one set of calipers from TRQ, they fit but requires smaller pads and I don't really want to put smaller pads also have no clue where to find smaller pads. Will be thankful!

[@StevesGarage]

I'm honestly not aware of a place to buy rebuild kits. I haven't looked specifically for the Escape, but they're not available when I looked for my Volvo. I'd return those calipers if you can. You don't want to mix and match brake parts. Just get the correct stuff so you know the car is safe.

[@dtruth5769]

When u pump pedal must cover be on brake fluid reservoir?

[@StevesGarage]

I do. I only open the cap to pour fluid in. I don't think it really matters if it's on or off, just make sure it doesn't run dry.

[@hunterdavis9230]

Is it the same process for the rear drivers side? I replaced the front two a year ago and now it seems like my rear ones are going.

[@StevesGarage]

Yea, it's pretty much the same procedure no matter the location/car. Are you working on a 2nd gen Escape? Between the 3 I've owned I never saw one with rear discs.

[@elongnutz2531]

Rear is your E-brake it’s a drum style brake I believe. Car is front disc brakes only for my 2wd v6

[@mattperetin5440]

thanks. just what i needed.

[@StevesGarage]

Great, happy it helped!

[@mike54996]

You also went from a 2 PC caliper to a bracketed caliper. It has been so confusing for me. I kept thinking I had the wrong part.

[@StevesGarage]

That's how I got the new caliper. Sometimes they come with brackets, sometimes they don't. In my case that was the only option available.

[@highwinds71]

Yeah I've been stuck trying to get these bloody rusty ass bolts off for a month . Lack of tools . After fucking around with this thing for a month now I just want to actually get something done .

[@StevesGarage]

Kroil is a good penetrating fluid! You can also rent tools from a lot of places. Rent an impact if all else fails, and then just replace the hardware if it's damaged.

[@jasondoyle4801]

Replaced caliper and new brake line. My caliper will not release? Please help!

[@StevesGarage]

Is the piston stuck all the way out or all the way in?

[@bigphilly7345]

Just got my pads and rotors replaced Monday and tonight front right calipers seized. Felt like I was driving with emergency brake on. Let the car ease and release and taking back to mechanic tomorrow. Seems they should have known calipers needed replacing on Monday or is that not something visible on inspection when they had the wheels off?

[@StevesGarage]

It's tough to say honestly. It could be a coincidence and failed after the job, or it could have been something they didn't notice. I once had a shop looking at my Volvo for an engine issue, and they noticed the caliper sticking when they were test driving it. I had no idea it was hanging up, but I wasn't that familiar with the car at the time. They knew immediately just because of how experienced they are with the cars.

[@jiggidyjam]

Yeah and if he would’ve came to you and ask “nothing looks wrong with the calibers they work fine”. Would’ve told him to replace them? I doubt you would’ve. It was just a freak occurrence

[@garyvanhoven9636]

When older rubber brake lines go bad the brakes will work to stop but when you release the break peddle the fluid will not flow backwards to let the piston release. So it might just be a rubber brake line and not the caliper.

[@tim1091]

The new caliper I got for my Escape came with a banjo bolt, but it looks like the brake hose just screws right into the caliper, without a bolt or washers? Not sure what I’m missing?

[@StevesGarage]

That's odd, mine definitely wasn't a banjo fitting. My best guess would be that the caliper is for multiple models and maybe those other models have a banjo style fitting on their hose. If your hose screws directly into the caliper I wouldn't worry about it and just toss the bolt. Or keep it in a coffee can to save and never use again haha.

[@tim1091]

@@StevesGarage haha awesome, makes sense to me, thanks dude I appreciate it.

[@StevesGarage]

@@tim1091 No problem, happy birthday I help. Good luck with the replacement and let me know if you have any other questions!

[@jasondoyle4801]

I have replaced my caliper and break hose caliper will not release? Any idea or help would be very helpful!

[@Thatsmessedupman]

I had replaced calipers on an 08 Escape. . One side seemed to be frozen. But it turns out it was the a internal collapsed brake hose. The side with new caliper and old hose (driver side) held its fluid like in the video when bleeding. So I could see no air and could close the bleeder. The passenger side with the new hose and new caliper would never fill the hose. Pushing the pedal would push plenty of fluid but by the time I got to the the car the top half of the hose was empty but fluid was dripping rapidly down the hose. No matter how many times I pumped the pedal it would never fill the hose. So which side was correct? Is the old hose partially degraded and holding back fluid (slow) Or is there still something wrong on the side with new hose?

[@StevesGarage]

@Magic .Mark I think I'm confused how a collapsed hose let the fluid go by, but a new hose didn't? How do you know the top half of the hose was full but the bottom wasn't and there was fluid dripping out? Fluid should easily flow through the hose and caliper and out of the bleeder. It can take a while to push out all the air bubbles. There's times I've had to bleed a new caliper and hose for a while for it to work itself out.

[@Thatsmessedupman]

​​@@StevesGarage The old hose on the passenger side was internally collapsed and acted as a check valve. I could push fluid through the bleeder valve but only with the vehicle running. When the old hose was removed I confirmed air could flow towards the caliper but but backwards. So when pressing the brake pedal with the car running I would still push the fluid through when bleeding. IT would not drip from the bleeder which I should have figured it was a bad hose. So I REPLACED the passenger side line. But when bleeding it reacted different than the DRIVER side which has a new caliper but not a new brake line. When the driver side was bled, the fluid remained in the bleed tube even after the pedal was released so I could check to see if it had air. But the PASSENGER side with new caliper and new brake hose would push the fluid through to the collection canister but the tube would not stay full. So by the time I got from the driver side to the passenger side to check, the tube was emptying and there was a steady Drip going down the tube. This makes me wonder if the driver tube is partially constricted(slower) . I probably will replace that line for good measure. But I was not sure why there was a difference and if passenger side still has an issue. Or did I not have the bleed screw open enough? How does one know you got all the air if the hose is not remaining full? I pushed through quite a bit of fluid. The advance auto kit as a urine specimen size cup so I filled and emptied it 3 times. And since it was still dripping out the bleeder I just assume the air was out . I had it on the highway today. I am not sure how I would really know if I got all the air out.

[@Thatsmessedupman]

I'm wondering a couple things. First would be, can you open the bleeder too much that may be air is getting sucked in from the threads on the bleeder valve? My other thought was air is getting sucked in from the inexpensive bleeding kit rubber fitting. Maybe allowing it to suck air and drain the tube? If not, where else could air be getting in that would prevent the tube from staying full after pumping? Or is it possible the bleeder wasn't open enough and that pressing on the brake pedal pushed fluid through but only allowing it to drip when the pedaled up pressed? And thus if I was sucking air from the bleeding kit would it drain the two by the time I got from the brake pedal around to the passenger side? So if the tube is always supposed to be full of fluid even when you release the brake pedal after pumping a few times, and since I did not have that on that side? What else could be going on? I'm sucking air in from some place right? I'll be doing it again when I replace the driver side line. But it'd be nice to know if there's ever a case that everything is normal if the tube doesn't stay full and just keeps draining out. I'll definitely be putting a little grease around the connection points to make sure I'm not sucking air from the bleeder screw. I heard that was a method to seal off small leaks.

[@StevesGarage]

@@Thatsmessedupman You shouldn't be letting up the pedal with the bleeder open. If you're only stepping down or allowing it to gravity bleed it shouldn't suck air in from around the bleeder or the hose connection. When doing a 'typical' bleed all you want to do is push new fluid out, you never want it to be sucked back in. I say typical because you can reverse bleed, in which case you would be sucking in from the caliper. But I'm assuming you're doing a bleed where you force the fluid out through the caliper.

[@Thatsmessedupman]

@@StevesGarage but the one man kits don't mention you're supposed to keep the pedal down. Do you have any tips for one man keeping the pedal down when you don't have a partner? I tried putting a cinder block against the pedal and the pedal was strong enough to push the cinder block backwards! Like I said, on the side I didn't replace the line, it wasn't necessary and the fluid remained in the tube like in most videos that I see. That was the confusing part when the other side , with the new line, didn't do that. So are you saying that normally, if you have a one-man brake lead kit, that once the pedal is released the tube would empty? I'm just not sure what normal is to know what could be causing the variation. I'll know next week when I change the line if the new line reacts the same on that side. But yes, long time ago I used to have someone available to push on the pedal and then I would lock it down. I'm not sure why a cinder block won't hold the pedal down, so if you have any tips of what could press the pedal down and keep it down, let me know. Thanks!

[@mattperetin5440]

any insights on a Check Brake System idiot light?

[@StevesGarage]

I haven't had that one yet! Rule out the simple stuff first - check your e-brake isn't engaged, and hook up a reader to the car to see if it's throwing any codes. I know my escape doesn't have an idiot light for a brake light bulb being out, but I know there are differences in trim levels and years, so check that as well. Another thing that my Escape doesn't have, but other cars do is a pad wear light. So when the brake pads get down to needing to be replaced. It's possible other models have that feature. Lastly, check your brake fluid level! It's possible you have a leak somewhere, though I'd think you'd notice that in pedal feel before the light came on.

[@Thatsmessedupman]

Can you provide link to diagnostic video mentioned?

[@StevesGarage]

I meant to put an info card in the video and must have forgot! Thanks for the comment! I made sure to add it in, put a link in the description, and heres a direct link as well - kzbin.info/www/bejne/l3nUe56IaLOAhJo

[@glorrifiedTorah]

It's actually a number 45 torx bit

[@StevesGarage]

Are you referencing the caliper slide pins?

[@glorrifiedTorah]

Yes

[@StevesGarage]

@@glorrifiedTorah Hmm I wonder if it's been replaced with an aftermarket? I've never heard of it being a torx, and of the 3 I've worked on it's always been an allen.

[@glorrifiedTorah]

@StevesGarage I bought it new so no not aftermarket also the replacement was torx

[@StevesGarage]

@@glorrifiedTorah Interesting, I guess it's another possibility! They must of had a bucket of random caliper pins to choose from on the assembly line.

[@kayt6fhutch674]

A car shop is trying to charge me 700 to replace my all my calipers and brake hoses. Is that a fair price?

[@StevesGarage]

It's hard to comment on the price of work since it can vary by location and shop. That being said - if that price is for 4 calipers, 4 brake hoses, parts and labor, it doesn't seem like a bad price.

[@clemensstepho411]

What is torque spec for the hose to the caliper? Looks like just hand tight?

[@StevesGarage]

I've honestly never torqued one before. I go hand tight and 1/4 turn with the wrench. If it leaks, try another 1/4 turn.

[@Oscaremill]

Important!. Please don't remove the Spring Clip before loosing the nut of the hard line, you will twist the hard line.

[@StevesGarage]

Sounds like your nut was seized. Little penetrating oil should solve that next time!

[@emanuelwise9222]

Video was way to fast!

[@StevesGarage]

Is there something I can help you with or a question I can answer? I do my best to strike a balance of being informative but not drag on too long.

[@Protecto.r]

Way too fast, bro. Horrible

[@StevesGarage]

Is there anything I can help explain?

[@anthonytumadre61]

I hate ford when u look up the size it says 7mm some say 9mm some say t45 some says t47 leave it up to ford to do some stupid shit like changing the caliper bolt size once ever 1.5yrs 4 different sizes in the matter of 6 years is ridiculous

[@StevesGarage]

I've worked on two 2010s, and one 2009. One 2010 and a 7mm, one had a 9mm, and the 09 had a 7mm. I've dug around online to try and figure out if there is a clear change over from one to the other and haven't found anything. It seems like they had a box of pins on the assembly line and just installed whatever they wanted as it rolled by. The worst part is that 7mm and 9mm allen drivers typically don't come in a set! I had to buy each one individually to get them.

[@Thatsmessedupman]

2008 has 8 mm. When I replaced the calipers with remanned ForMOCO units one had an 8mm . One had a size we could not figure out . They guessed 12 mm! I would not accept it as they did not have a hex head to even try. I had to drive to another part store and they had one with the Ford casting but a 7 mm. So I had had to buy the 7mm but at least I knew that was more common. I did not want to risk the one with the size I have never seen any one said the escapes used. I th ought maybe I would just use my old pins but opted for the new ones in the smaller hex size.