300Tdi front axle check. Vibration and broken CV reported. Real time repair Pt 4

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Britannica Restorations Ltd
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J1M2A3
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[@spitfiremk1uk]

Nice to see a practical application of serviceable and un-serviceable. It might not be brand new but serviceable is perfectly good enough to use without safety or reliability concerns. The difference between a fitter and a mechanic!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Thanks - you could have gone to town on this and replaced everything, but the parts had years of life in them and they were original genuine parts not Chinese or Indian - I know what I would rather have!

[@harveysmith100]

I am so glad I started messing about with cars when I was 16. I know how to look after my vehicle and the value of "An ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure." Grease and oil are a lot cheaper than steel.

[@Reaper4367]

You're a good bloke Mike. Cheers for the information and entertainment!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

You're welcome! Thanks! Mike

[@philhealey449]

Common sense in short supply; Ive been watching money no object 4xOverland Land Cruiser refurbishment recently and there's a US Land Rover restorer on KZbin that seems to replace every single body, suspension, electrical , transmission and all other moving or stationary items on each car, working in stage payments of about USD 20,000 . I recall my first Mercedes, a W116 450 SEL; noisy wheel bearing responded to a clean out and fresh grease and set up of preload with some phone help from Germany. Cost about a quid and still good 21 years later.

[@patrickjobling8676]

Good call squadron leader..😁😎pip pips and carryon

[@Ankeneering]

Fantastic.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@eliotheasman5378]

Hi Mike very well done as always and as my dad would say don't fix what is it broken very many thanks Eliot

[@potter7530]

Mechanics logic: is it hanging off? No? Ahh.. Doesn't need doing yet!

[@chriscary5302]

I highly recommend magnetic drain plugs from Nigel at Excess 4X4. Put them in all, both my Disco's, they rock.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

If you are in North America and you are near Addison's a pack 5 strong magnets are pretty cheap addison-electronique.com/en/products/hardware-tools/magnet-23-mm-x-9-mm-pack-of-5/

[@philhealey449]

Wondered if you'd try exchanging front and back wheels ref eliminating the wheel imbalance idea on the vibration? Also is the tyre wear maybe looking like an old threepenny bit (or the latest pound coin) if the wheel was shimmying with the loose steering joint and bouncing a bit if the shocker bush is history ?( I had that on my S1) .

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Good idea - however all the tyres were not for winter use so knowing my luck i would get pulled on a test drive!

[@philhealey449]

@@BritannicaRestorations Will await the axle conclusion with interest. Meanwhile posted you some Nepalese coffee today from Hong Kong, down to 12 deg C here this week so the fur coats have come out. Few winter tyres in evidence.

[@stevep8773]

@@BritannicaRestorations NB used to have a law (not sure if still enforced) that you could be ticketed for "impeding traffic" if you got stuck and did not have winter tires fitted. That way, people who were willing to wait for better weather (like pensioners) before going out were spared the extra expense of another set of tires. Of course, with FWD and so many AWD SUVs, now, mandating certified snow tires is even less defensible and one of those unique Quebec things that only makes sense if you are a tire salesman :-) I will arrêt now :-)

[@red90rover98]

Springs are upside down.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Yeap

[@bradleymcleod1317]

Those tin washers for the shock mounts....do you have a part number? I found the rubbers on Bearmach, but could not find the washers.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

NRC4365

[@dietmarw]

So Mike, what is the right way round on the prop-shafts. I also got an old one where the sliding bit was towards the transfer case whereas I think it should simply be pointing forward. For both the rear prop (which then points towards the transfer case) and the front prop which then points towards the diff. Correct?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Both sliders point to the transfer case - this is to limit dirt getting caught on the sliding shaft - -however on the D2 the slider was to the front as it had a double cardan on the transfer case end

[@dietmarw]

@@BritannicaRestorations Thanks. Yes that sounds logical. Also confirmed by my still factory Puma. Whereas at the Ninety I need to flip it around when I fix the weeping front prop seal .

[@jamesbarker4808]

Up to the end of 93, lt77 the manual states both sliders to the front, I think the Haynes manual is the same.

[@philhealey449]

You'd think they would apply Japanese Poka Yoke design so it would only assemble correctly. e.g. different size flange location details or 5 bolts one end and 4 the other end. That's Rover P3 parts bin design legacy for you.

[@dietmarw]

@@jamesbarker4808 Interesting. So it might be correct after all. Still I think it is more logic to keep the sliders away from the dirt as much as possible. Wonder if there is any drawback of having them pointing upwards also on my pre 93 Ninety.

[@mickpospiech1363]

Hi Mike, regarding swivels, oil or one shot? What's your preference?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

One shot - always - I will never go back to oil

[@nickboylen6873]

Some don’t like one-shot because they think you can’t drain it for routine replacement. It doesn’t need that anyway, but even if it degraded much, a swivel full of degraded grease has to be better than an empty swivel that had once been filled with oil! It works well in Series swivels, too, though they need a bit more than a sachet each, and in the Series steering box (which is also prone to leaking with age).

[@mickpospiech1363]

@@nickboylen6873 personally I prefer ep90. As long as the oil seals are fine, I know that my cv is swimming in oil. In my head, centrifugal force is throwing the grease away from the cv. That's just in my head.😉

[@nickboylen6873]

That’s great when your swivels and seals are mint, but as they age and the balls rust, they start leaking. The grease is not only less likely to leak, but if it does, it makes a mess and you know about it. Oil leaks more easily and gets washed away in wet conditions, so you might not be aware the swivel is dry unless you do regular top ups.

[@red90rover98]

If you are not going off road, grease is fine. For off road, you want oil. With grease, you do not know that the seals are bad, then you go through mud or water and fill the balls with dirt. The dirt then destroys everything.