Tow Hitch Recovery - Deadly & Non-Deadly Methods

[@L2SFBC]

A reminder to all: - ALL RECOVERY IS DANGEROUS - ALWAYS REDUCE RECOVERY LOAD - DIG OUT, USE TRACTION RAMPS ETC - AVOID KINETIC RECOVERIES IF POSSIBLE - DO NOT USE TOWBALLS AS RECOVERY POINTS Follow-up video kzbin.info/www/bejne/ipfVf3eLfMmtbJY If you go hard enough often enough and mistreat your gear so it weakens, sooner or later you'll break something whether it's rated or not.

[@rude_people_die_young]

Hey Robert, I realise this is a very general question. Given we often need someone in the driver's seat of the vehicle being recovered, do you think raising the bonet/hood of this vehicle, in order to attempt to "block" the path of a projectile, adds much protection?

[@hebdomatical]

Dang, a youtuber that actually supplies good info with no BS. Rare.

[@L2SFBC]

Thanks!

[@helidude3502]

A few of the “do not use” methods have been successful for many vehicles that are “mildly” stuck or just not capable of moving without minor assistance. These high “success” rates can hide a significant danger that isn’t obvious to everyone. I will be changing a few of my bad habits that I’ve been fortunate enough to have survived. Learned a few things that I hadn’t considered. Thank you 👍😎

[@rude_people_die_young]

Indeed, it's a way of tricking yourself, when you've done something risky and got away with it hey. You can think someone is mildly stuck, but if you already believe it's ok to recover with a tow ball, then you already don't know how to interpret how stuck something is :) Darwin Awards were created for this reason :)

[@iffykidmn8170]

common sense is no longer common, flat pull-on slick ice vs recovery of vehicle sunk to the frame in mud.

[@itsasecret2298]

I love the blunt labeling of "Deadly & Non-Deadly Methods" rather than "proper and improper". Because when you're dealing with forces this high the small details aren't just for the sake of appearances or tradition or status. The small details are literally a matter of life and death. Great video.

[@L2SFBC]

Thank you!

[@Toramt]

12:37 essentially the pin is strong against shear forces and less strong against deformation/bending. Directly attaching the recovery rope will try to bend the pin, while using a recovery hitch will attempt to 'cut' the pin.

[@L2SFBC]

Good summary thanks!

[@stevesmith7530]

Using a strap that is at least as wide as the receiver will do a better job of load spreading too.

[@applesbighatranch6906]

Robert! Was just studying your outstanding graphics laying out the various best ways to use two snatchblocks/snatchrings to create a 4:1 MA (Spanish Burton) etc... I think you have provided, overall, the greatest contribution to 4WD recovery. Well, you, and Aussie Matt then U.S. Matt. We here in KZbinLand are so much better for it! MUCHAS GRACIAS. You are the man.

[@L2SFBC]

Glad it was helpful!

[@mexifry222]

This was an amazing explanation. I appreciate the clearly marked "Do not" and "Do this" on all of your examples.

[@L2SFBC]

Glad it was helpful!

[@robinireland810]

As always, clear, concise and informative.

[@snakeo99]

He is getting very predictable right!

[@davelee9087]

This is probably the most concise clear explanation of the proper use of this type of recovery equipment that I have ever seen. 5 Stars for this video. Can you tell us the source of the tow bar with the oblong opening?

[@davidfrank2824]

OMG after watching this I have no idea how I was able to get out of my teenage years not killing myself. This was back in the 80s when I bought my first four-wheel drive truck. I'm almost everything you said hot to do I did all of those. Perhaps the reason myself and friends did not experience any of this is for the fact that things were made much better than. Now even back then those drop hitch that would go down 6 or 8 in those you would see those tearing themselves apart. I definitely found this very useful especially still owning 4 X 4.

[@L2SFBC]

I'd say it's more less force back in the day. Lighter vehicles with less powerful engines, smaller tyres etc. And using recovery gear of the same sort of strength as today.

[@tbjtbj4786]

​@@L2SFBCi don't know if I can agree with less weight and less power and smaller tires. In fl in the 80 and 90 1/2 ton to 1 ton trucks were the norm. Even one added hp with rebuild or big block swamps. Tires 33 were very common but considered small 36-44 were everywhere. 2 that I used a lot 79 f150 with 1 ton axles swap 460 and 40 in ground hawgs 1980 400 36 grand hawg 2. Nothing light there

[@mpfla8095]

Great video. Very helpful. Especially when you demonstrated real life fails. I have been towing equipment for over 55 years and you applied logic to recovery. Thank you Mike

[@L2SFBC]

Glad it was helpful!

[@tnargs57]

Great video Robert, thank you. I do note that the attachment points for your towbar used for demonstration are so far higher than the actual hitch point, that I think that towbar would be somewhat compromised compared to a towbar that has a hitch more in line with the chassis attachment points. Thank you.

[@L2SFBC]

Yes, the drop isn't ideal, but it's built way, way stronger than a drop hitch not least as it's connected to two chassis rails with multiple bolts, gussets etc. And most towbars are the same, just more obvious on utes.

[@KRColson]

This a great video explaining different methods of recovery! You pointed out several methods that are not ideal and some I hadn't considered. Thank you very much for sharing this. Cheers.

[@dw7094]

A word to the wise, if you're not familiar with vehicle recovery, download a copy of US Army Field Manual FM 20-22, and read it. Recovery is a "science". The manual will make your life easier and will save your life.

[@sliderdriver1]

Better still, do an IVR course. (institute of vehicle recovery). I've been in road rescue for 34 years and ivr manuals were created by ex REME who had the vision to put a manual together. It became the industry standard for all recovery agents wishing to operate for the police local authorities, Highways England etc. I appreciate this video is about tow hitch recovery but lots of 4x4 owners fit winches and that's where the science starts.

[@sawboneiomc8809]

The orientation of the shackle is really helpful. I used this very set up to pull out a stuck forklift just yesterday and did everything correctly except that shackle orientation.

[@L2SFBC]

There is no wrong or right overall, just what is best for the situation. Always think about that rather than just a default.

[@andyg9991]

The other point Rob when using just a pin to recover is that the pin is subjected to a bending load whereas when using a recovery hitch the load on the pin is a double shear load and the pin is far, far stronger when loaded in this manner.

[@L2SFBC]

Yes, covered that, but didn't use the term double-shear.

[@tyeetamer]

Did you watch the video?

[@TradeWorks_Construction]

12:12 - He details this point toward the very end of the video with illustrations showing it’s better to spread the load across more of the pin than concentrating it in the center. While this is technically different than the specific principles of a what the commenter had mentioned, for the purpose of this video he covered what’s important to the layman if they are trying to put anything in this video into real world application.

[@jerryfrench2981]

Thanks!

[@lyfandeth]

Very nicely covers all the small but vital points.

[@RussellTarr]

Hi Robert. Another great lesson, thanks. My method for towbar recovery is to use a 4 m bridal looped over the bar on either side as close to the mounting plates as possible. A soft shackle is required on one side. Regards, Russ

[@jackdawg4579]

Another option if you need to use your pin to recover, might be to use a sleeve. I reckon a bit of 15 or you might need 20NB, black pipe that the pin goes through that can fit inside the hitch tube could do the job nicely, spreading the load along the pin. Be a bit of a bugger if you used your pin, then found it was bent and you couldnt put your hitch back in place!

[@dylantaylor8931]

Honestly for regular sized Australian 4x4 (sub 4t gvm). A strap put into the reciever hitch is a very safe choice, especially if there is care taken to make sure there’s either a radius or no rough edges on the opening of the reciever and ideally the strap eye takes up as much space as possible inside the 50mm reciever without being ‘stuffed’ in there. Yes the pins aren’t usually rated or high tensile so if you want to get fancy put a grade 8 or a 12.9 bolt in there. I’ve always done it this way and never bent a pin, but would probably think twice about it if recovering something over the 2.5t mark like a car and trailer/caravan. Not wanting to start arguments just sharing experience.

[@L2SFBC]

Thank you, good points

[@Land_Raver]

I've had the same experience.

[@NovemberSky3]

Earned yourself a new subscriber here mate. Answered questions I had, and the explanations of how and why were easy to understand. When towing with my GU Patrol, I need to use an extended hitch for the tow ball to clear my rear bar. I’m guessing that I don’t need to look for and buy a similar length recovery hitch, as the actual recovery point doesn’t need to be sticking out beyond the rear bar like a tow ball does.

[@L2SFBC]

Thanks, and yes correct, the recovery point should be short as possible.

[@cdnabn49]

Great video, thank you for sharing that information 👍 great perspective on being safe and using the proper equipment. Kudos!

[@jasonmershon3941]

I appreciate the FSM logo. R’Amen brother.

[@TheRandomAustralian]

That's a like and subscribe from me mate, solid advice from someone who understands the material and presents it in a no-nonsense format.

[@L2SFBC]

Thanks!

[@dirtfarmer7472]

I think that this is the 2nd time I’ve watched this video, after the first I bought a different 1 than I had. Got a hitch that is solid, I think that you would approve.

[@majerstud]

Love this video, and just bought your 4WD Glovebox guide too. Great stuff! What brand is that orange tow hitch?

[@L2SFBC]

George 4x4. Discount for my Paterons

[@Mr_Jimbo]

Really interesting and clear useful information as usual. Just fitted a 2" receiver on my Defender in time for off road season here in the UK so very timely!

[@mattwaters6987]

Excellent advice and information. Thank you for sharing this great video. 👍😊

[@AlloffroadAu]

good video as always, I’m using and advocating for recovery hitches for years on my trips

[@castlex01]

Muy buenos tus videos, gracias por compartir tu experiencia.

[@Land_Raver]

Couple notes: 1. Never recover pulling backwards. You're vehicle was designed to pull forward, you have more car between you and recovery gear pulling forward. 2. Tow balls are perfectly safe to recover on IF, and this is where you lose people, you have a static strap and do not try a kinetic recovery i.e. a running start. 3. If you use just the pin, put the strap directly in the receiver and do not use a soft shackle. Shear strength of 1/2" mild steel is around 90k lbs. The strap will prevent provide more contact area vs. a narrow soft shackle to prevent deflection. 4. The less metal parts in the recovery gear the better. These are observations from thousands of recoveries I've performed over the past 15 years.

[@overlandready]

Backward recoveries are normalltysafer as you have already driven into the area, so less chance of adding resistance to the recovery. I agree that the recovering vehicle should never have the recovery attached to the front, so a "reverse recovery" rather than "pulling backwards", the two are very different. Gearboxes are not generally designed to tow in reverse gears, so it rips the reverse iddlers out of manual boxes, Auto's are generally ok, but not advisable. Never recover off a bolt through tow ball, they do fly, seen it happen more than once. A UK 2 bolt tow ball, yep, it'll handle it, but you can still get the strap come over the ball, so ideally, not a good idea, kept pinor a pintle hitch with master ring only in my book.

[@Land_Raver]

@overlandready If you have to pull the towed vehicle backwards that's understandable. I was mostly referring to the recovery vehicle. Most vehicles forward gears start lower than the single reverse gear. It makes a huge difference.

[@overlandready]

@@Land_Raver interestingly a lot of euro and asian vehicles reverse is slightly higher geared than 1st, but still trashes the box if sudden shock is applied. Totally agree tow vehicle should be attached to the back, 100% of the time.

[@OneEyedJacker]

@@Land_Raver I’ll take issue with #2 all day.

[@Land_Raver]

@OneEyedJacker What's your issue?

[@jeffschroeder4805]

The elastic ropes and webbing store enormous amounts of energy, people that aren't familiar with recoveries will likely not appreciate how much. If you are are trying to get a vehicle out in one big tug, you are putting unnecessary strain on all components. Start with just a little slack, working up to more serious efforts, work at moving the stuck vehicle incrementally, doing so is much safer. Pay attention to how your vehicle is being affected by rebounds. If everything in your backseat is now in your front seat perhaps you should just call a wrecker.

[@gw5436]

Your channel is excellent mate. Compare to other self-appraising channels I won't name that use the word expert, or start with R, you have credibility.

[@L2SFBC]

Much appreciated, thank you!

[@paulgrieger8182]

I always store my draw bars indoors on a rack on the shed wall. I also have a rubber plug in the hitch receiver to reduce the potential for corrosion (they salt the roads here). Nice Pastafarian emblem.

[@nwobob]

He boiled for our sins.

[@miguelg.risueno6752]

Loved the video, thanks so much for the thorough explanation and especially for the diagrams

[@L2SFBC]

You're very welcome!

[@stringyGG]

Thanks for the video Rob. A video on the other end of the car (i.e. the car being pulled out forwards). I see too many people using recovery gear that exceeds the rating of the recovery/tow/tie-down points. I'd much prefer a soft shackle to break than pull a piece of steel off my car.

[@mrgpomona420]

I have a question ..what about how some off-road bumpers already have those hoops or holes welded on to them where you just connect your tow shackle inside of it.. do you recommend using these as they are completely welded metal-to-metal and what is the strength of something like that as far as the hoop breaking or separating from the bumper

[@L2SFBC]

If points are designed for recovery, use them as such, but if so then they should have a rating from the manufacturer. Find out what that is, whether its MBS or WLL.

[@scrapperstacker8629]

Great explanation of recovery methods thanks for sharing.

[@policedog4030]

Great advice and there was another accident like those you described but this was at an automotive auction in the USA. They were towing the cars up to the stage to be auctioned and a tow ball went airborne into the crowd.

[@L2SFBC]

Wow got any links?

[@policedog4030]

@@L2SFBC I thought it was an OSHA report but I just looked on Google and don't see it. I recall the auction employees were using a towing assembly of some kind to move the vehicles into position; those vehicles were not always equipped to be towed and they just rigged something temporary - seems it was an indoor or inside a tent function?. . The fatality was a man in the audience just watching and the tow ball came off under tension and it struck him in the head.

[@25052007]

Not very often I like the word Mandatory but this Video fits the bill for all drivers. There are, I use the word kids, using their parents city 4x4 to go off road with a lot of improvisation.

[@1320freek]

Your videos are awesome! Thanks for doing these! I bet you have saved at least a few lives with your sharing of knowledge!

[@L2SFBC]

I certainly hope so!

[@1320freek]

@@L2SFBC HAD to dude!!!! You are one smart cookie!!!

[@lenluksa326]

Some excellent takeaways. Thank you.

[@L2SFBC]

Glad it was helpful!

[@antonioyeyechu5966]

Buen trabajo. Gracias.

[@garysheppard4028]

I see the FSM is still getting around. All hail his noodley appendages!

[@ToyotaKTM]

He boiled for our sins!

[@paulgrieger8182]

Raaaaah-mennnn!

[@kolsen6330]

Its great you showing all the ways to rig a tow point on the trailer hitch next to a sticker that looks to say "For towing purposes ????" Cant make out the last word but is probably "Only". A trailer hitch is designed to tow a trailer, not to be used for vehicle recovery. You talk about the angles placed on a ball mount (2:03) and ignore the 10 inches or so offset between the frame and receiver tube. The side plates on the hitch look to be 1/4 or so plate, making that the weakest point in the whole lashup. Next question is what type of bolts and how many hold the hitch to the truck frame. Did the mechanic that installed the hitch use grade nothing bolts or correct strength bolts?

[@L2SFBC]

I cover that in the follow-up. Yes there is an angle, but that towbar is secured by multiple bolts to two points on the chassis, and has large areas of welded section, unlike the 50mm square hitch. So there's no comparison in strength. Also, towbars are not noted for coming off, unlike hitches, so I'm focusing on the risk areas.

[@ian9toes]

I was in a situation where the stuck vehicle needed to be pulled backwards and the hitch receiver was rusted in and the tow ball was used successfully. But we did a lot of digging first and was using maxtraxx and the recovering driver was applying a gentle load with no run up. We were all well aware a tow ball is far from ideal but also certain in that situation it was sufficient for the little help that was needed. Sometimes a vehicle is barely stuck and needs very little assistance, which is why I also carry a couple of 2T shackles for smaller cars that don’t have towing points big enough for the bigger ones. In those situations I like to use my winch so that I’m applying the bare minimum force required.

[@richbadour6002]

I use an old triple snatch block! Last week I pulled a four wheel drive tractor out of a wet swamp with both front wheels were completely under the mud/swamp! Hard part was finding a good tree for my anchor point once located it was nothing to pull out with the triple snatch block!

[@suitinaute]

I purchased one of those George recovery hitches a while ago. One of the main reasons was because the pin holes allowed the recovery hitch to be oriented correctly. For some reason most recovery hitches on the market don't allow correct orientation. It's a good bit of kit. Oh yeah, and as you've indicated, without the appropriate preparation, snatching is at the riskier end of the recovery hierarchy.

[@L2SFBC]

There is now a 10% discount on George gear for channel members!

[@suitinaute]

@L2SFBC Too late for me. Highly recommended though.

[@rossatkinson3160]

I wonder what the dynamic load rating if any applies to these towbars. My trucks towbar has a connection to the chassis in the middle of the bar, most only have connection points left and right. And if say I pulled you out with my 5t truck, using a dynamic recovery strap, what would the potential loads be on a piss weak tow bar, especially those dropped 2.5in round bar types found on style side utes, My wife's Colorado tub Ute has one of these, my same Ute, but a tray back/canopy build, has a much more substantial square box section towbar that has no drop alignment. Therefore have a far greater strength and much less torsional stresses imposed upon the chassis connection points. That tongue at 4.00 mins is likely only designed for use in the downward orientation.

[@scottc3165]

Great lessons. Wouldn't using a wire rope eliminate the catapult issue?

[@L2SFBC]

No. Wire ropes are still elastic.

[@oscarbollmann6244]

Excelentes consejos. Gracias!!!

[@lyndonkapoor8823]

Great advice thanks. Your tow bar looks like a drop down type ( receiver is lower than the mounting points on the chassis). Wouldn't this also create a bending moment that might not be desirable when recovering? Cheers

[@L2SFBC]

Yes, it will, so not ideal, and in fact many chassis are like that, it's just obvious with a ute. But the bending moment is against two chassis rails, not one, and the towbar is very securely attached so unlike a drop hitch which is one unit only. The chassis is also designed to have a towbar attached there. However, anything or something can, and will break...so ALWAYS REDUCE RECOVERY LOADS!!!

[@lyndonkapoor8823]

@@L2SFBC thanks for the reply. Makes sense 👍

[@lyndonkapoor8823]

@@L2SFBC thanks 👍

[@rickmills8391]

Rey nice and informative, thanks much.

[@KevinMaxwell-o3t]

I don't know why I clicked on this; it seems like a pretty boring subject on a Saturday morning. But I learned a few new things that might help me avoid injury! Thank you!

[@L2SFBC]

Thank you, I'll take that!

[@BorisEkner]

Damn good advice! Thank for sharing. FYI - I’m sharing this video at several social media accounts. (I ❤️ the FSM logo 😁)

[@L2SFBC]

A few people noticed and understood :-)

[@stevegoodwin5841]

Excellent presentation Robert.

[@L2SFBC]

Glad you liked it!

[@scottk6659]

I was told and have usually put it into practice, to drape a jacket, blanket or something heavy over the cable / recovery rope. The idea being, if something breaks, the weight in the middle will drag it to the ground, dispersing some of the energy and keeping everything close to the ground. It seems to make sense, but thankfully never had anything break during a recovery. Thoughts?

[@L2SFBC]

It doesn't make much difference. The mass is tiny, and the aerodynamic resistance irrelevant. Tests have been done.

[@NICUofficial]

extremely useful and practical advice, well-presented thank you in advance if there was ever a timeline in which your advice saved the life of one of my loved ones and we never know about it

[@L2SFBC]

much appreciated, thank you

[@CPK007]

Love the video. Do you recommend using the connection as a 'fuse' to protect the towing vehicle? e.g. towing can safely pull 10T but not more.

[@thomasblevins1662]

Very good video and information….especially like the Flying Spaghetti Monster badge. You rock!

[@L2SFBC]

Thanks so much!

[@bradoestreicher3476]

Hi, I have a newbie/naive question. First, I understand that this would NOT apply to a kinetic recovery (i.e., running start). Wouldn't it be safer to use a chain rather than a recovery rope or synthetic harness? Since a chain would not stretch, and therefore would not store energy, I would think it would be safer if something failed unexpectedly.

[@L2SFBC]

A good question. First off, everything you put under tension stretches. It may stretch so little you'd consider it no stretch (elasticity) but it still elongates even if you can't see it with your eyes. This elongation, stretch means the chain does store energy, and if that energy is released suddenly, then you are in trouble. In fact, sudden and unplanned release of stored energy is how a lot of humans get killed, 4x4 recovery or not. That raises two questions; what are the chances of that energy being released, and if it is released, what's the risk? If the chain is rated highly enough, as in let's say 2x the vehicle mass, then the chances of it breaking are small, as I'm assuming here you're talking about chain rated to G70 and within that 2x GVM, no some random hardware shop chain. And you should watch my video on estimating recovery loads so you don't get into a situation where you're trying a 5t pull with a 3t chain. However, the chain doesn't have any significant elasticity compared to a kinetic rope or strap, so you can't do a kinetic energy recovery with it, you have to do a very slow pull, a gentle tow, relying on tractive effort of the recovery car, not in any way its momentum. If you do that, then the chances of a breakage are very small. But what if it does break? Well, a broken chain *can* go flying far and hard enough to kill. That has happened. So can a towball, a wire rope, even a snatch strap. Basically, if a 3t 4x4 tries to kinetic-recover a vehicle, then it's putting energy into the connector, be it a strap, chain or whatever, and when that energy is suddenly released, it can be deadly. Put enough energy into a tennis ball and it'll kill not hurt. The less force in the recovery, the safer it is, so ALWAYS REDUCE RECOVERY FORCE before you start. So can you recover with a chain? Yes you can, but only a tow recovery. Is it safe? Yes, as safe as anything else if used correctly, but no safer.

[@CodyLynn100]

I have a recovery hitch and shackle set from Amazon, rated to, or at least listed to, have a break limit of 40,000 lbs. Used it once or twice, but I put a tow rope/strap through the shackle and run a heavy chain with hooked ends through the loops of the tow rope. I liked using this method since the chain won't care where it gets hooked to, and the strap doesn't have to deal with any abrasion except the mold seam of the shackle and chains. I'm not a professional, I just keep this gear in my truck as a just in case.

[@olafschermann1592]

Thanks for showing how deadly things can get

[@rude_people_die_young]

I agree. Seeing Coroner's reports of when it really goes wrong is very impactful. It's too easy as a social media viewer to dismiss things and keep believing our own misinformed truths.

[@wattheheck6010]

Things I never knew I never knew...wow! Bravo!

[@L2SFBC]

Like what?

[@wattheheck6010]

@@L2SFBC Shapes and positions of the hitches plus the physics involved. I keep a shackle in my receiver with the bolt in horizontally. Now I will switch the configuration to horizontal. I have a snatch block assembly if necessary, but I am NOT a tow truck. I gear came with weights to place on the strap/rope in case of breaks. I use my recovery equipment for emergencies only. I only use the ball for towing not recovery.

[@SkylinersYeti]

Thank you another well through out video.

[@rogerh123]

Thank you for another useful video! I don't have a square hitch receiver. Don't think this type is very common in EU. On my car I have a removable hitch ball from Westfalia. It's looks like a solid, but proprietary locking connection. My question is: If no other good recovery points are available, Would it be ok to use a soft-shackle around the horizontal part of the towbar itself? It appears sturdy and have rounded edges. But there is a risk of it sliding sideways. (It's a Jimny, so very small and light car btw.)

[@L2SFBC]

It's always a judgement call in the end. For the Jimny you want to be pulling on, or aligned to somehow the chassis rails.

[@cameronwood1994]

I'm going to add a few additional comments from a UK perspective. Here, all towing apparatus for passenger vehicles manufactured on or after 1 August 1998 must meet "Regulation No. 55 of the Economic Commission for Europe of the United Nations (UN/ECE) - Uniform provisions concerning the approval of mechanical coupling components of combinations of vehicles", and in the European Union the practically identical "Directive 94/20/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 May 1994 relating to the mechanical coupling devices of motor vehicles and their trailers and their attachment to those vehicles", which in practical terms put UN/ECE Reg. No. 55 into European law. Part of the UN/ECE regulation states that all apparatus must have a maximum dynamic load value, known as a D-value, and is rated in kN. From a recovery perspective, this is the maximum load that may be put into any piece of equipment, including (heaven forbid) tow balls. In any case, you must use the lowest D-value stated on any particular piece of equipment. You'd think that this would be the tow ball or tow jaw, but surprisingly it's often the tow bar itself, and often it's in the region of just 14-17 kN even for a 4WD. It is for this reason, that if you are using any UN/ECE-approved coupling (it has what's known as an "E-mark"), it is of my strong opinion that kinetic energy recoveries are not carried out under any circumstances. The D-value is calculated as follows: (MAM x MTM) / MAM + MTM) x (9.81 / 1000) = D-value. What I'd like to see in general is more people covering this style of towing equipment rather than the receiver-hitch style apparatus, because there's a perception that the comments in this video among others don't apply to European-style towing equipment and that tow balls are perfectly safe.

[@L2SFBC]

Yes, D-Value is used in Australia. Our 50mm towballs are de-rated for vehicles over 5000kg GVM.

[@Hitman-ds1ei]

D rating comes under NHV (National Heavy Vehicle) regulations, I've said it a thousand times if performing kinetic type recovery using a proper snatch strap is mandatory but to wrap around back of towbar to come onto hitch point so tries to pull into receiver rather than out and the friction around bar lessens load on anchor point and if mechanical failure occurs some engery will be dissipated by the act of dragging it around the bar, damage yes but less dangerous energy level and if done from the bottom up over the top of bar it will be flung into the ground dissipating more energy JMO from years of seeing the bad stuff happen and what I learnt to do but what ever blows your hair back you have to live with your own mistakes

[@cameronwood1994]

@@Hitman-ds1ei With one or two exceptions, we don't have receiver hitches in the UK/Europe.

[@robinireland810]

@@cameronwood1994 one of the exceptions being the Ineos Grenadier, which has a 2” receiver with an enlarged face plate onto which a 50mm ball hitch is bolted. I use the receiver for a bike rack (far more secure than a ball hitch type), and bolt the OEM ball hitch on the face plate when towing is required. I’ve yet to find a good quality receiver type ball hitch that’ll fit in line with the receiver.

[@cameronwood1994]

@@robinireland810 Range Rover L322 is another notable example. Have you tried Extreme 4x4? They do some adapters for receiver hitches, as do Land Rover specialists Allmakes/Terrafirma. In fact, they do a UN/ECE homologated receiver hitch for the old model Defender that looks identical to the North American Specification combined tow bar and step arrangement.

[@jefflindsay42]

Excellent presentation, thank you.

[@Andrew-hb3pg]

A very good explanation thank you.

[@L2SFBC]

You are welcome!

[@francikaa1]

Can you make a video about Winch Line Dampening Bags ? How heavy they must be, or where to put them on the winch line, etc. I've seen someone just placing the empty bag on the winch line, without any ballast in it. Thank you

[@L2SFBC]

Check @madmatt4wd for that

[@FlyOz-b7b]

Orientation as shown -good. always put a weight bag over tow rope or strap to dampen whip if it snaps

[@overlandready]

Discussed tow bars with MadMatt4wd,came to the conclusion that most are never inspected and rating for towing is not the same as rating for recovery (kinda opposite directions to be fair). Your bar design is a perfect example with a low slung welded on receiver tube, What is that rated for? What is the cross bar rated for? Yes, it works, but it's not the safest place to recover from, direct to chassis rales is best. As it is explained you get a twisting force in the hitch, you get that again in the drop arms of the bar. Simple thing is just do not recover through a weld. in the UK I believe welded recovery points are outlawed for official motorsport recovery. bolted is the best way as it has rated shear forces. But, what do I know...

[@L2SFBC]

Is the chassis rated? As I said, "rated" is a word thrown around without much meaning.

[@overlandready]

@@L2SFBC I would say "rated" is tested to set standards of force and spec, but is there any actual specification and test criteria for the items that are "rated"? The chassis is effectively what is being recovered, so does it need to be rated? It's crash/deformation tested, so it should be strong enough for the job it does, but has the towbar ever been formally tested for recovery purposes? It is considered bad practice to weld recovery points as welds have a tendancy to rip along the tempered "edge" in the metal, which is a known weak point, so unseen defects make it sensibly unsuitable for recovery points on the "what if" school of thought. Towing is a lot different in the forces involved and the direction of force, the most forces a towbar towing sees is compression under braking, that is, as you know, very different to the forces of recovery. so is it wise using a welded towbar for recovery? Maybe that one will get thrashed out by the lawyers. I guess it's a "what are you willing to put up with"? scenario, Do you want something designed for the job or just "that'll do!". Personally I don't like receiver hitches and they aren't really legal in the UK even though loads of people use them. It's probably worth putting a tether to the recovery gear too, so if it does let loose, it can't go too far.

[@L2SFBC]

That's my point. What does "rated" really mean, to which standard, and in recovery, do we use it to that standard? Yes, the chassis is strong, but wouldn't you rather have something else break than bend the chassis? 4x4 recovery really is "what are you willing to put up with" for sure. The tether idea is good, I support that.

[@overlandready]

@@L2SFBC I would say the "standard" that items are tested to is simply the Kilogram. which is a standard SI unit. The item will withstand xxkg of designed axial force. Definition is, as always, important, The definition of rated is: "to judge the value or character of someone or something." (Cambridge dictionary). This is where method comes in, so you can see how ithe rating is gained and what conclusions were made. Once that has been documented it becomes a "the standard" ie a document all future ratings can be compared to knowing the test was performed in the same manner. This is where advanced and destruction testing comes into play; after several repetitions of the same or similar data have been collected then it can be assumed that an item made of the same type of material, made by the same method, will adhere to the same properties to the test unit, this is why in manufacture only have to test say 1 in 10,000 units. I would expect any manufacture worth their name would have this document and supply it, I wonder if someone like you has ever asked for one? Might be worth a try as would be a good base for a video. After that; I guess it needs to be decided where the weak point need to be placed? Personally I'd like it to be in a controlled point, with a winch, you can under-rate the winch so it stalls. but in vehicle to vehicle recovery, it's not that easy, A tethered ripstrap is one option, but it can both solve and create various scenarios that are good and bad. As we both understand, nothing is perfectly safe in the real world.

[@L2SFBC]

Yes agree with all that. There is no standard for rating and that is something I explore here - if an item is listed as "8000kg" was that testing 100 units and the worst was 9000kg, or 10 units and the worst was 8001kg? Or just a guess? No standards. So even "rated" gear is often not rated to a meaningful, consistent standard.

[@brunoterlingen2203]

Robert, what is the actual breaking/shearing force required to break a 23mm shaft/shank of a standard Aus towball? 23mm is, in my mind far stronger than a pin through the receiver hitch - comment?

[@L2SFBC]

Yes, but the pin is in double-shear, and that also assumes the ball isn't corroded or damaged as often happens. Pins aren't known to break, balls are, so experience counts.

[@AirsDream]

Thanks for the clear, concise information. Any thoughts about using a lunette ring?

[@michaeleveleth7979]

Is a highgrade bolt safe for a pin replacement for a recovery insert?

[@handyrandy111]

Ya, learn something new every day! Thank you.

[@L2SFBC]

Glad to hear it!

[@dustyfarmer]

How about putting the strap around the main cross beam of the towbar a couple of times then place the loop of the strap over the square shaft of the tow tongue as the anchor point. That would get the pull point closer inline with the chassis mounting points and leaves nothing to become a missile.

[@L2SFBC]

That can work yes

[@TheddreaJackson]

Outstanding Outstanding

[@VictorGarciaR]

The stile of towball does not change anything? I have a long "gooseneck" towball. The shaft under the ball does a 90° angle and then the shaft is about 25cm, with 2 holes to bolt it to the hitch receiver. I think that the ball itself is welded to the "L" shaped shaft. Is the shear risk is as high as with a bolted-on towball?

[@L2SFBC]

I can't visualise that. I would consult a local 4x4 trainer for guidance.

[@jake-mv5oi]

That sounds like a European style towball. I thought I remember reading that towing and recovery folks were allowed to use those for recoveries.

[@VictorGarciaR]

@@jake-mv5oi indeed, it is in an european van. A renault trafic, a 2wd peoplemover. Last week I got stuck cause one wheel was on the pavement and the other in mud. I got out with a little help, a small tug. The guy did use my towball

[@thebubaloomonkey]

@@VictorGarciaR whilst the advice is always "don't ever use a towball for recoveries", the reality is in situations such as you describe of a road vehicle being stuck because one wheel is in mud you will not get close to the forces needed to break anything or creating any danger. The instances where things break almost all involve heavy 4x4s stuck beyond the axles in deep mud or against large obstacles, and a gung-ho recovery driver repeatedly snatching with lots of force. Towballs do break, but they don't break easily.

[@L2SFBC]

Yes, agree with that Monkey. To make things simple, I go with "don't use a towball". Those who understand the nuance you describe will act safely. If you had a roadcar on shallow slippery grass incline you could drag it slowly with a 4x4 off a towball safely enough...but where do you draw the line to unsafe? Better to just say no towball.

[@rhetth-s8082]

Where did you get the figure of 9t for putting a snatch strap straight onto the hitch pin? I did FEA on this scenario a while back and the results showed shockingly low strength. The pin and hitch are overstressed in the area located at the interior end of the hole in the hitch. Localised compression failure can happen here and you may not notice. Consider that hitch pins are 16mm in diameter and 50mm long whereas the pin in a 4.75t rated bow shackle is 24mm in diameter from memory and about 32mm long from memory. Massive difference. I am shocked when anyone says this technique is okay. Also if the pin bends it is very difficult to remove in the field, and by then the hitch will also be damaged inside.

[@L2SFBC]

What's "okay" ? The answer is okay for what? Are we recovering a Jimny on wet grass or a Canter in deep mud? Recovery is not binary. The 9t figure comes from another test and the pin bent but did not snap. A 4.75t shackle will break at over 28t - see my test on 1t shackles for example. kzbin.info/www/bejne/d4fUip6dlsZ-d7s

[@rhetth-s8082]

@@L2SFBC doing a destruction test where you watch the force peak and then tail off, doesnt tell you the load at which permanent deformation first took place, which would be at a much lower load than 9t. Permanent deformation could first take place at say 1.5t, compromising the integrity of components, but with no visible signs.

[@michaeleveleth7979]

Is a high grade bolt safe for a pin replacement

[@L2SFBC]

If it is provably as strong yes

[@retabera]

Are lockable pins in the hitch receiver suitable for towing or should use actual original pin?

[@L2SFBC]

Lockable is fine. Doesn't matter if secured with a lock or a clip.

[@retabera]

@@L2SFBC Not the clip, the whole pin is also a lock. i.e "Rough Country Hitch Pin - Lockable - RCHL01"

[@L2SFBC]

Yes, the pin is the same as any other, just the end locks, so ok to use.

[@ericwilliams952]

Great detailed info thank you

[@L2SFBC]

Glad it was helpful!

[@edwinmiranda8174]

Could you tell me the name of the brand ,model and the store sells the Orange metal shackle ??? I want to buy it

[@L2SFBC]

just a standard shackle

[@edwinmiranda8174]

@@L2SFBC the Orange I didn't find it on the internet. That is why I was wondering what is the brand, or who manufactured!

[@Rottingboards]

Do you have a video on types of straps?

[@L2SFBC]

No sorry

[@theturdcurd2382]

Also, always throw a heavy coat or blanket over the strap or rope, it will dampen the slingshot effect if something brakes,

[@hedydd2]

Safe use of the soft shackle with a tow hitch and tow rope/strap would be useful. Also the use of a coat or area of cloth draped over the rope or strap, mid way between the two vehicles.

[@ms.annthrope415]

Open the hood and lift it up to create another barrier to stop a flying broken tow hitch. Put a blanket over thr strap or cable, a heavy weighted strap blanket, even a floor mat will dampen the flying strap and hitch.

[@gordowg1wg145]

1:15 - YES! The number of times we've seen "recoveries" - ESPECIALLY by "experts" on YT - where this wasn't done! There's even some videos where the "brute force and ignorance" attitude of many has resulted in serious damage, even axles ripped off and chassis' broken in half! I still regard a shovel/spade as the #1 tool for getting out of strife! Another problem with drop hitches, or adjustable height hitches, is they not only increase the moment at the tow-bar connection, but the bending/shearing motion on the chassis and it's fasteners.

[@L2SFBC]

I covered the bending movement - see this for 7 tips on recovery. kzbin.info/www/bejne/ipfVf3eLfMmtbJY

[@gordowg1wg145]

@@L2SFBC First, appreciate the tips and suggestions - we can always learn new tips, or be reminded of old ones, and learn of new equipment options. Ah, I took those comments as being regarding the bar, itself, I may have missed any reference to the BM and it's affect on the vehicle's structure and the fastening used. As you pointed out, the tow bar - and it's supporting structure - are designed for an in-line load. It's also why it's important to minimise any side loading, because the structure(s) aren't designed for that, especially higher angle loadings. It seems WAY too many people are watching these, predominantly American, recovery "specialists" who will often use them incorrectly. Another big concern I have is the use of the emergency 'screw-in' eyes, intended for recovery towing of rolling vehicles, as recovy points for winching or, worse, inertial snatch recovery points. I expect you covered it in one of your other videos.

[@colin-me]

I love the science based reasoning paired with the flying spaghetti monster decal

[@solooverland3666]

Should be required viewing for wheeling. Thank you!

[@jarkolimbo9268]

good one! thanks for sharing

[@dylantaylor8931]

The shackle on the tow ball looks terrifying

[@L2SFBC]

It is!

[@clintchapman4319]

Good information Bob!

[@allangibson8494]

Bow shackles bend in when overloaded. The pins bend instead on D shackles. That means an overloaded Bow shackle can be disconnected and a D shackle can’t after being over stressed (because its pin is no longer aligned with the screw thread).

[@828enigma6]

I loop a chain behind the drop hitch assembly then around the tow ball. This theoretically splits the load. I use non elastic synthetic cable, strap, or chain as the pulling cable.

[@jamestanner9198]

How about doing a piece on front recovery points?

[@L2SFBC]

Maybe in future.

[@vrod1a]

Very informative 👍

[@L2SFBC]

Glad it was helpful!

[@m1cxf]

Re shackle not fitting the hitch. I have found quite a few situations where something is powder coated to the point of increasing its size to the point of it obstructing its use. The latest being a recovery hitch that would not fit in the receiver until I had sanded a lot of its coatig off. Fortunately it is made from billet aluminium so rust will not be an issue.

[@L2SFBC]

Could be the problem yes

[@stevegoodwin5841]

The Xbar from HR on my cab chassis, expensive but great kit.

[@L2SFBC]

Definitely is, three real recovery points!