300Tdi hard starting. Fitting an electric pump Part 1

[@ammocraft]

After three lift pump failures, one leaving me stranded (despite everyone saying they run without one) I gave up and put an electric fuel pump at the back too. My reasoning was it’s better to push fuel through the lines under pressure and have leaks instantly visible, rather than suck air in case of a leak and not know. I just ran a fused and relay fed power wire from the battery under the seat, tapping off an ignition switched feed to energise the relay. Never looked back. 👍

[@gavhuddy]

Lift pumps spurt fuel rather than constant flow. The diaphragms are always tosh as well. Set up is so much more straight forward than my TD5. When the in tank goes or the pressure regulator decides to wobble you are stuck on the side of the road

[@PhilUys]

Mike, happy to see your nose returning to normal.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Me too!

[@simonrowlands7472]

I had the same problem with the fuel running back over night , found one spill pipe leaking and it causes fuel from the filter and inj pump to syphon back ,I did try a electric pump but it was causing the pressure relief valve in the injection pump to work overtime you have to drill the spill hole in the banjo bolt its a bit of a experiment to get the pressure under 6 psi so the inj pump is happy. I recently had the inj pump rebuilt and found the vein pump was not working , and after a conversation with Brian at automatic transmission he was amazed that my 300tdi had a lift pump saying the vein pump would suck a golf ball up the pipe from a mile away . My pump now runs the advance unit and sounds like a deisel engine again big transformation, I admire Brian, and don't argue with a bloke who built chitty chitty bang bang 👍 great video mike

[@BritannicaRestorations]

pump I used was 4 psi

[@Defender110SLO]

Great one with the horn. Cheers King Mike 🥃

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@gazzafloss]

Mike, there must be an air leak on the body of the IP, the throttle shaft is a good place to start looking, it won't even show any fuel leakage while the engine is running. It allows air to enter and drain the IP low pressure fuel galleries while the engine isn't running. Causing it to syphon back through the excess fuel return line, which causes the IP HP side to loose prime.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Yes I was thinking that too - BUT after 3 days standing now - first flick of the starter and it is away so it it is air then it should do the same with the electric pump as it does not have a check valve Also it is a bit more 'sparkly' than before when driving

[@danloosmore8099]

I fitted a Durite pump to my 90 about 10 years ago, no problem.

[@simonilett998]

Hey Mike, good idea, but just so you're aware, it's a common problem for the front shaft seal, throttle shaft seal or rear distributor head seal to leak on VE style injection pumps causing fuel drain back. Worst case if it's a leaking front IP seal, on engines where to front of the pump lives within the crankcase, diesel drains into the crankcase and dilutes the oil which is bad news, or in your case runs down all over the timing belt and destroys the belt etc. Block off the return line at the tank and pressure test the feed side of the system from the tank line at back of the car. If the fuel system passes the pressure test, then you can use a relay, and tap off the charge lamp wire at the alternator with a diode feeding towards the relay coil as the relay positive trigger connection, and permanently ground the relay coil negative side, as a safer way to run the fuel pump. It won't help with the priming issue on start up by itself, but at least it will shut the pump off if the engine stops with the key on or in case of an accident etc. To get around initial start up priming, you could connect a momentary primer button switch fed by a fuse from ignition 'on' position, or connect from the starter crank wire via another diode to the relay positive coil terminal. Either push the button to trigger the relay for a few seconds prior to starting, or prime while cranking. Once the engine is running and alternator is charging, the fuel pump will keep running, but will shut the pump off as soon as the engine isn't spinning and alternator stops charging etc 👍🇦🇺

[@nickboylen6873]

I have had this fuel drain back problem periodically, more frequently on my 300Tdi than the 200 for some bizarre reason, even though it was the same problem on both. The black braided leak off hoses between the injectors perish over four years or so and need replacing - as soon as they are perforated enough to let air in, the fuel drains back. Halfords sell cheap fuel line of the right type, about £5 a roll. LR only sell the complete leak off system, with the banjos for all four injectors, the banjo for the pump and the plastic hose as well as the three bits of rubber hose. When I enquired over 15 years ago, they wanted £85+VAT! I need to find better quality hose than Halfords sell, so that it’ll last longer than four or five years, but I just leave the roll in the cubby box - if it misbehaves, I just cut three new lengths and replace them, as the only tool needed is a blade to cut the lengths.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

These have all been replaces with 3.5 mm hose for the returns - made in Germany www.ebay.ca/itm/3-5mm-Diesel-Fuel-Injector-Return-Line-Hose-Made-in-Germany-1-meter-Ships-Fast-/151836640611

[@graham-martin5847]

ive got one of those on my tractor and it works brilliant i had issue with lift pump not lifting lol

[@chrisgreenwood271]

Non return valve would be a good cheap solution, maybe not at your winter tepms. Someone had fitted an elec pump to a 2.8 Pajero I had years ago, bit of a work around, untill it was filling the sump with diesel, as the seal on the IP were knackered.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

only needs 4 psi

[@tommepham2267]

Mike, in my experience here in the UK...I run the Delphi mechanical lift pump which has a gauze filter in the top (nice touch) This is fitted with a 5mm spacer between the pump and the block (obviously with two gaskets) This setup works very well and lasts a long time with no problems. If you remove the bleed screw from the filter housing with the engine running you get absolutely soaked! The blue box lift pumps are utter rubbish, even with the G on the end of the part number. They are not worth fitting. I have got an original Landrover 300tdi pump as a spare, it’s got Made in England stamped on it and it never let me down. I only replaced it because it had clocked up over 100,000miles with me and I felt it might not do a lot more. I replaced it with Britpart at the time and I had endless problems with them.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Delphi pumps are Chinese and I have had problems with them too

[@tommepham2267]

@@BritannicaRestorations yes I remember you tried them. You just can’t avoid Chinese made stuff these days unfortunately which is a shame. Keep up the good work on the channel 👍🏻 The combination of Delphi and the spacer works well though. I can hand prime with the lift pump without any problems as well.

[@gavhuddy]

We stuck one in the engine bay on the D1. Small inline fuel filter, then the pump, pump into the filter housing. Totally bypassed the lift pump (blocked off). Runs a treat! If you have a 300tdi with the electric Adelphi lift pump, you are laughing because they are worth their weight in gold! 😃

[@mickpospiech1363]

Daft question coming up! Aren't some pumps meant to pull and others push? Does it mayer in this instance?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

YES! There are push and pull pumps - I put this one in the back as a pusher, as pull pumps are not very common

[@Ural43203]

HI Mike whats the make/model of that wire tracer your using ?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

www.itm.com/product/fluke-networks-pro3000-tone-generator-with-alligator-clips-and-rj11-plug

[@Mikeaubert]

The only problem I can foresee with this set up is if the diaphragm splits and then your electric pump will fill the sump with the contents of the fuel tank...

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Should not do so as the pressure is so low

[@vincentpoole7588]

Mike. It's obvious all good things like fuel pumps, hoses will come to an end ! The Rangie started fine on Friday and after a short drive the accelerator cable came loose and now it runs like a pig ? Double check the fuel filter considering those "Black Oaks" probably ran some dodgy fuel and the non-return valve is full of grit - forcing fuel back into the tank. V

[@BritannicaRestorations]

all of the fuel / lines has been stripped and checked

[@andygough4666]

hi mike 2 very quick questions im putting electric pump on my new build 80 inch off roader ive looked at the red top they say 151 L/min and 8psi would that be too big also what is the ringer you use for chasing wires been looking for ages for one as alway great vid never give it up or we will be lost

[@BritannicaRestorations]

You only need 4 PSI low flow Ringers is www.itm.com/product/fluke-networks-pro3000-tone-generator-with-alligator-clips-and-rj11-plug

[@andygough4666]

@@BritannicaRestorations many thanks for taking the time to reply mike

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Any time!

[@graham-martin5847]

forgot to mention they are none return those pumps

[@dougfields5798]

I think you may have a diesel pump fetish .

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Lol!

[@markevans5596]

Hi Mike, got a similar problem with my Puma, could you give some advice? Mechanic just put a new stripped engine in. It started fine for a week then started having issues, at first just cold starts but now even when fully warm. Once running she is fine and pulls well, but I have to bump start her EVERY time now... I thought it was the glow plugs so changed them yesterday, fired first time straight after then next start was back to the same problem, any ideas? Fuel pressure?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I am not sure as I have not seen one of these engines - could be fuel pressure - Have you run any diagnostics?

[@markevans5596]

@@BritannicaRestorations thanks for the reply, no not run a diagnostic yet but I will get my mechanic to do it tomorrow, I've read it may be the immobiliser but don't think it would still bump start if that was the case. Will let you know how it goes!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Do you have a check engine light on the dash? This will give a clue if it is a system error or a physical problem ( bad ground etc)

[@markevans5596]

@@BritannicaRestorations no nothing at all, and as soon as she starts there's literally no sign of a problem, but if I stall I'd better be on a slope because a bump start is the only way to fire the engine

[@BritannicaRestorations]

This is odd - is the engine cranking properly ? Is the battery good and tested - what about grounds - are the clean and tight?

[@antonionunes998]

Fix the pump. Send it to authorized service shop. All Land Rovers deserve to be well serviced instead of having crap ideas that turn the cars into crap lemons.

[@harveysmith100]

Are you new to this channel Antonio?

[@gshort4707]

I'm a bit confused. Mike has tried replacing them with brand new ones that fail. Are you saying that a repaired one will be a better quality than a brand new one?

[@jameshargan2786]

Rude. Unnecessary. Obviously not familiar with Mike and the way he works.

[@ammocraft]

Obviously new here. 🙄

[@davepearce6359]

Oooooh, hello Karen! We’ve all Missed your invaluable input and extremely ingenious ideas, not,please feel free to share them somewhere else as I don’t think you’re really suited to Mikes superb channel.