300Tdi with fuel supply problems

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[@EpohDerf]

I've a 4jb1Isuzu engined 2a. I recently had fuel starvation problems and ended up 'redoing' the entirety of the fuelling system. The problem I identified was small, hard, c-shaped pieces of rubber in the tank, the lift pump and the fuel lines. I think the fuel lines were breaking apart from the inside out... This meant that the problem was intermittent. It would idle even if the lift pump blocked as the high pressure pump on the side of the engine would pull enough fuel to idle and rev a bit. With everything replaced, it is dynamite again!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

You should really use hard nylon or steel fuel pipes, keep the joints to a minimum and use flexible hose which is suitable for diesel

[@EpohDerf]

@@BritannicaRestorations thanks for the advice on that, any more issues I will follow your advice.

[@whitacrebespoke]

I had this on my 1999 300 tdi 110 in the end I had changed the lift pump three times and the sender unit twice. I cut the hose with about 4 inches on it near the tank and did the same at the other end. Took some good quality rubber hose and pushed it over the old fuel pipe and clamped it with jubilee clips. I’ve never had an issue since.

[@mazdaman1286]

I am in australia, its 36c here and I am really enjoying this video 😁😁😁

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Was -24c last night - fancy a swap?

[@Reaper4367]

You are pure gold cobber! Im going out right after this comment to fill the filter and see if i cant get it to at least fire. Cheers Mike!

[@spookinit]

My 200TDI ran exactly the same when I changed the fuel tank. I used a stethoscope to identify the air leak. The fitting at the fuel sender was drawing in air but was fluid tight, so no visible leak. A quick tighten and it was perfect.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I suspect it is a fitting somewhere

[@peterkane9822]

Morning Mike UK time, when you said get the hot air gun out (around 5 mins in and it just reminded me of working in the scrap yard in the late 80's and having to light a fire with newspaper and an oily rag under the crane engine in the morning to get the thing warmed up before starting I love them days

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Indeed those were the days!

[@davidbaggett8282]

The steering wheel is on the wrong side. Being a professional, you should have noticed. The roof also needs a bit of work.

[@harveysmith100]

There is a comment below from Brian Jones about a cheap non return valve from China failing after a year. You and I had a chat last week about everything we buy now needs fettling and we have spoken about the rubbish from China. I would start with any Chinese components first, (non return valve) and then proceed. Fitting an electric pump seems like a Stirling idea until we read the label on the box that says "Made in China," you may fix the problem for a bit but in a year when the electric pump fails your back where you are now! You are the most experienced guy I know on 300 tdi's. Your brain is going, "Everything is how it should be so why is it hunting?" Check any components made in China, should be imprinted on our brains. Look forward to the solution

[@darland3821]

After changing out everything possible on my petrol s3 in an attempt to resolve a similar issue Ifinally fitted a facet electric pump and hey presto!

[@nickboylen6873]

The small braided leak-off pipes between the injectors are prone to deteriorating and splitting, letting air in. That causes starting problems and rough running until purged.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

already replaced

[@MrJunkFruit]

Oh man there's some snow :D ...

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Not the best place to lose a contact lens...

[@itolond]

what was the fix for this - mine has that ide issue at the moment as well as cut out at high revs

[@karlhrdylicka]

Hi Mike . just wondering if there is a gauze filter on the end of the stack pipe in the fuel tank .I doesn't take much to partly restrict the fuel flow, not sure if the fuel you have in Canada does the same as the crap fuel we get in UK. turns into black moldy sludge if it's not used and circulated for a few months it blocks the gauze . also the banjo bolt that goes into the injector pump has a filter in it and sometimes gives problems . you cannot just clean it out with airline, fit new one from memory it has a number 75 OUT 344g stamped on it . but what ever you do don't fit an ordinary type banjo bolt or dig the filter out of the old one as it will affect the performance of the injector pump , usually any air leak is somewhere before the lift pump as after the lift pump it will show up as a fuel leak . yes it is possible that you have a lift pump that's gone Kaput, if the diaphragm has gone faulty it could also pump fuel into the engine oil as well as air into the fuel side . My best advise is to move to somewhere that's warmer , I certainly couldn't put up with what you are coping with .

[@BritannicaRestorations]

No, there are no filters on the line

[@silli1939]

Funny u say that if I don't used my series with a 300 in it for few weeks it don't start straight away I made a mistake years ago with the banjos wrong way

[@paulheff8067]

Is there anorid value on top of the injector pump the diaphragm breaks down and there is a vacuum supply from air intake and when the diaphragm is split it back pressures the fuel systems if you get blast of air when you remove the fuel cap it is the anorid value you will all so find the engine down on power

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Good tip, but I now think there is a connection problem on the tank as I fitted a Disco 2 plastic tank and I think the fuel is more dense in winter, and with the cold I think the air is getting in there - just need to tighten the connection - problem is I just cannot reach it form underneath so I will have to take a board off to access the tank

[@graham-martin5847]

i had this issue too 300 tdi with 8mm plastic pipe my mistake was to use push on fittings direct to tank and onto the lift pump as the push on fittings are desighned to work under pressure and not when sucking from the tank so they were pulling in air too so i went out got some metal furrels and some 8mm brass compression fittings never had an issue since just thought i would chip in cheers push on fittings work fine on return pipe

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I was pondering about this myself - funny thing is it worked fine last year, but I guess with the diesel being thicker and harder to pull, then it will suck in air - I will have a look when I get the truck in the shop but for now I will stick a tank on the roof!

[@graham-martin5847]

@@BritannicaRestorations i also have a heat exchanger inline too so i can run my 300 on pure veggy oil need to sort one at the tank end too for when its cold ,mine is currently hooked into the hot water at the front that maybe another thing handy for you or even an inline electric heater just a thought

[@Notorious3356]

Interesting fuel problem, I’ve no doubt you’ll sort it out. Couple questions. I notice you have military door tops on your truck. Did you rebuild them? If so, where did you source the parts? Mine on my 90 rattle in the frames so bad, it drives my batty!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I stripped them to pain them but I used the felt seal as fitted to the side windows

[@Notorious3356]

Britannica Restorations Ltd, would you happen to have that on video?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Sorry I didn't film them as I was in a rush, but they are easy to strip - take off the window locker and where the window slides there are 4 x small screws - remove these and two pop rivets from the ends and the windows will pull out along with the bottom runner

[@gathmc]

Lift pump diagram verry common problem same as the lift pump valves

[@BritannicaRestorations]

This was a new OEM pump straight out of the box

[@brianjones1151]

I tried a little one way valve (made in china)on my Willy jeep and sure enough, after a year or so, it stopped working correctly !!

[@greglester123]

I'm very interested to know what the solution is here. Observed a similar issue on a 200Tdi, where it would start up and idle ok, but when given throttle, it would choke. Replaced fuel filter, fuel pump, IP and still an issue. Pressured the tank and couldn't see any leaks that would indicate air getting in. The main difference is symptoms is that when the bleed screw on top of the fuel filter housing is removed, no fuel or air comes out...even at higher revs. When filling the fuel filter to the top and putting it back on, it'll run fine (just as in your video) until that filter runs out of fuel. Then it's back to sputtering when it tries to pull higher volumes of fuel.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Greg - here's an experiment Why not attach a small fuel tank on the roof and pipes leading to the lift pump and the return into the roof tank? Not to be driven but to observe If it runs prefect, then it will eliminate the lift pump and filter area - the you can work out where the problem is Mike

[@greglester123]

Britannica Restorations Ltd That is one of the ideas we thought. To use a separate tank or jerry can and lines and just test that way. Thanks and will let you know how things turn out.

[@85AndreasLH]

Hi Britannica. You said the magic words - electric fuel pump! I have 300tdi HCPU that some backwoods bushmechanic has installed a electric fuel pump in. The way he did it was by cutting a square hole in the bed and installing the pump with gasket sealing and not tightening any of the fuel lines - you can imagine the bloodshed when you tried to fill up the tank! Anyways - I wanna install a new mechanical fuel lift pump because my gut feeling is that's the culprit. As I understand it's quite easy, but I'm wondering why the hillbilly bushmechanic didn't do that himself instead of cutting up the bed? Can you think of an alternative problem and thereby fix? The engine is starving when i've been driving for a while. Once I actually managed to run it dry even though the tank was almost full. I've since changed the fuel sender unit, but it still gets low on power after driving for 20-30 minutes to the point where the rest of traffic is honking at me - I suspect the electric pump gets hot. Any ideas and tips are greatly appreciated!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Andreas There are push pumps and pull pumps - I wonder what he fitted? Anyway check for tight connections and the 300 Tdi was supposed to have a 5 mm spacer between the pump and block - it is said this makes the pumps last longer and pump better www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-fuel-pump-spacer-2-5-200-300-TDi-Defender-Discovery-NEW-PRODUCT/303050757429?hash=item468f3b9535:g:-RYAAOSwZrhaXNLB:rk:6:pf:0 Shipping is very expensive but you can make one if you have gaskets to copy I have get to try it as I have other priorities at the moment Mike

[@OrangeRangeRover]

Does it have a spacer fitted between the lift pump and block or is the pump mounted direct to the block? I've known of a few 300TDi vehicles that have had fuel starvation issues when they didn't have the spacer, the pump wouldn't return to its off cam position and would usually end up damaging the pump due to the cam trying to push the pump lever further then it could go.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

There is not spacer and I will make one and report back

[@OrangeRangeRover]

Alas, this isn't me selling them but this ebay link describes the issue well www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303050757429

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Part is cheap but the shipping is £16! I will get the Plasma out and knock one up Mike

[@LandersWorkshop]

Just had a problem with my 300 Defender, if I go downhill or uphill, the engine now has a tendency to cut out. It seems to do it more if the fuel is jostled at a guess? Really weird. Is that likely a lift-pump issue?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

How does it go with a full tank?

[@LandersWorkshop]

@@BritannicaRestorations Well it was fine, but it's been at about just above 3/4 right now.

[@Viaticboston]

Hey up mike. Mine started doing this about a month ago after I refitted a leaking fuel tank( had to Emetal the return pipe at tank due to corrosion and little time to fix properly). Problem slowly getting worse, bugger to start and intermittently hunts when not loaded. Recent lift pump fitted. Can the air back up to the lift pump through return pipe? As you wouldn’t really see a leak at the top of the tank.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Could be the lift pump Tosh = there is talk of a 5 mm spacer supposed to the fitted between block and pump - seems the pumps are stressed too much I need it make one to find out but I have a hell of a lot on at the moment with the 90 project and other stuff getting a lot of feed back about bad lift pumps - OEM and aftermarket The return should not effect the pump drawing in air Mike

[@Viaticboston]

Mega. Cheers lad

[@nobletrout]

someone buy this guy a real snow shovel :)

[@myysterio2]

You need a garage to put things in :p

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Garages are for snowflakes!

[@mrcvry]

Exactly! So the snowflakes do not pile up on everything. ❄️ 😄

[@aytonbob]

That’s what tykes are like lol.👍

[@adammcintyre3532]

There's something mighty odd about the guy making this video 😂

[@harveysmith100]

Why because he works outside in -5c? No, not odd, he's from Yorkshire

[@fredjones7307]

The only thing that is odd is your comment, very odd..

[@adammcintyre3532]

Lol, he is a friend. I'm just having a go at him.

[@harveysmith100]

@@adammcintyre3532 Adam, an open forum isn't the place to make comments like that. It can easily be misconstrued.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Adam You still shipping? Drop me an email [e-mail]