3d Printing Castable Resin Tier List: Moore's Jewelers

[@RaijinSW]

this is awesome wish there was more content like this

[@Mooresjewelers]

Thanks! We just wanted to help others out who might be in the same boat we were in years ago. -Chris

[@RRSF09]

I've been using Solidscape prints for years, and the casting is dead simple and the prints have amazing detail. I have them printed elsewhere and they have seldom been broken. I've never had any issues with the cast surface issues you mention, the castings usually just need a quick magnetic pin tumbling and then on to final finishing and stone setting. The parts are brittle, but when I've occasionally broken off some piece I found that you can just laser them back together, the material will just melt back together.

[@StudiojubilerskiePl]

I've been trying to get a good cast with the B9 emerald for a while now. But they always come up with problems. Would you be so kind as to share your experience from printing to casting. How do you harden the prints, what casting program. My printer is Asiga Max X35.

[@lukegaffney6511]

Have you tried Power Resins?

[@bryanharperdba]

Power resin?

[@giveupnever6635]

Aren't you confusing Sirary Tech's purple and blue? In the product description section and in the community, it says that blue casts better than purple.

[@Mooresjewelers]

Thanks for the comment. Nope not confusing the two. We’ve actually reached out and worked with Siraya Tech to try and solve the issue we’ve experienced. This is why I mentioned your set up will be a factor. We’ve seen great results in terms of printing and casting for both resins online, but we’ve also seen horrible results with both. Our testing landed somewhere in the middle. We tested each resin out awhile ago, and in the beginning purple was all that was offered; blue came after. But pigment does play a key role in curing, printing, and casting. From our testing blue has a much better mixture/ ratio and consistency than purple which is why it prints better, but during burn out it’s reaction is closer to non castable resins which is why it didn’t preform as well. One of the things we do while testing resin during a burn out it simply to place a resin part on top of some investment and watch it at each stage. The binder in the blue stuck easier to the investment surface more so than purple did. This is also the same as we saw with actual castings because the surface of pieces would look like Swiss cheese. Basically, the resin broke down the investment walls while burning. Purple on the other hand seems to have an inconstant mixture (at least with the numerous bottles we tested). About half way through the ratio would be perfect and at that point prints and castings would come out perfectly, but that window was very narrow. Any other point prints would fail and castings would fail. Purples biggest issue is light bleed, because excess resin would always be cured on various parts of the surface. This also is in line to the mixture not being consistent. Again if it works for your set up that’s amazing. Purple has been the closest to casting like wax and blue is closer to casting like formlabs purple. Nothing has been as consistent or easy to work with as b9 emerald, but at those prices it’s hard to over look them as an option. Hope that helps! -Chris

[@Masterpj555]

the blue should have less ash because it contains more wax.. is harder to print and no its not the dye that is the only change....