PrusaSlicer Advanced & Expert Features Tutorial

[@K_Shea]

These feature by feature tutorials are really a great help and very rare. Thank you for doing them.

[@3DRevolution]

My pleasure, really glad it helped. Thanks for your comment, and happy printing!

[@interdimensionaleagle6685]

Great explanations, i'm new to using prusa and just watched the beginner video.

[@3DRevolution]

Really hope it helped! Happy printing.

[@meltonpieman959]

I have used Prusaslicer for quite a while. Thanks for this video as it has opened my eyes to some of the advanced settings that I have not used yet. Please keep up the good work. Regards David

[@3DRevolution]

Thanks for the feedback David, it's always really nice to hear and glad it helped. I've got some more PrusaSlicer videos coming out soon looking more closely at specific features. Have a fantastic day, and happy printing!

[@bluerider0988]

These videos are exactly what I needed. Thanks again. A cool idea for some of these options would to do a video with use examples. Aka show examples of where the options are beneficial.

[@3DRevolution]

I've got a range of shorter videos that'll be comming out over time each focussing on a specific one of these features and many of which will have use case examples. Really glad you are enjoying the videos so far. Let me know if there's anything else you'd like me to cover, and happy printing!

[@bettydaltonnewbold2019]

At 14:27, please note that "Only infill where needed" is not available in Sprusa 2.6.0 Alpha for some reason. Cheers.

[@3DRevolution]

Very interesting! I only make my tutorials with final releases, but will be doing a new one on the release of the final version is out. Thanks for the heads up, I'll look more into that. It may be they'd removed it from the Alpha temporarily whilst making some key adjustments.

[@holgero4851]

Thank you very much for your tutorials. They help me a lot. I have a problem with which I am stuck. I use osVACneo to design parts for my dust extraction system. There are often narrow zigzag gaps of 0.2 mm between the components. These are rotatable slip rings where the gap is so narrow that no suction power is lost. I despair of printing the interlocking sliprings in a single process from PLA (nozzle 0.4 mm, layer thickness 0.2 mm) in such a way that the elements can be rotated after printing. In my case, they are firmly connected to each other as long as I don't make the gap significantly larger. What are the best PrusaSlicer settings if the main focus is on the narrow gaps between the slip rings and they should be rotatable afterwards?

[@CuivTheLazyGeek]

Nice JWST image for your desktop background. And thank you for those tutorials!

[@3DRevolution]

Haha thanks, I love that image so much! Glad you liked the tutorials. Plenty more on the way. Take care!

[@3DRevolution]

Also, I just noticed your channel, looks great! As someone that lives in a UK city, astrology isn't such an option for when I'm at home, but my career is as a wildlife camera operator so I spent much of the year in the most remote and least populated parts of the world, so any tips I can get for astrology and astrol photograpgy (that doesn't require me carrying around a giant telescope specifically for it), is great. You've just grabbed yourself 2 new subs!

[@lampwick-nel]

Great run-through! My print is not printing central. Maybe you can run through how to go about correcting that issue? Ender 3 Pro. All the best.

[@3DRevolution]

Hey NeL, sorry for the late reply. Glad you liked the run-through. Could I check, is the model central in Prusa PrusaSlicer, and the off-centre in the actual print? If so, where on the print bed are prints actually coming out?

[@elidari60]

Very nice video. Thank you so much I have a request. Do you sell a book that explain everything is explained on the video on KZbin. It will be a lot handy if I have a book to refer to. Thank you very much, Eli.

[@3DRevolution]

Hey thanks, I'm really glad you like the video. Unfortunately I don't have a book I'm afraid though if that is something I ever produce, you can guarantee I'll be posting about it on my X/FB/IG profiles.

[@dustinsmith9750]

did you ever get the single extruder multi material settings video completed? nobody on KZbin seems to have one out yet. Thank you for this series it has been quite helpful.

[@3DRevolution]

Unfortunately I haven't managed to make it yet. I absolutely still have it on my (very long and growing) list of videos to make so I hope to get around to it eventually. If my channel really takes off then hopefully I'll be able to devote more time and money into it and that'll speed up the process. I'm glad you've found my current videos useful. As I say, I've got plenty more on the way. You may have noticed a lot of my recent ones have been Bambu Studio based, but I've got a couple of PrusaSlicer ones in the oven as we speak, and should be ready to serve in the comming weeks.

[@briansteiner2116]

Great video! I've always used Cura but I have an older computer and cannot download Cura 5.0 so I've switched to Prusaslicer about 2 weeks ago so this is a HUGE help!!!!!

[@3DRevolution]

Ah really glad it was helpful. Thanks so much for commenting, really appreciated! Do let me know if you have any issues or if there's anything in particular you'd like me to cover. Happy printing :)

[@tampajoeyz230]

Great video. Thank you. Did you ever do the Multiple Extruder video? I have a MakerGear Ultra One (4 actually) and the PrusaSlicer has worked great for it so far.

[@3DRevolution]

Thanks glad you liked it. Unfortunately I haven't done the multiple extruder video yet. I do have literally hundreds of videos all lined up to be made so I will get round to them all eventually. If my channel really takes off more, then hopefully I'll be able to devote more time and money into it. Oh wow, I've not had the opportuity to get my hands on a MakerGear, how are you finding it? Glad to hear PrusaSlicer is working well for you!

[@tampajoeyz230]

​@@3DRevolutionthe MakerGear Ultra One printers have been great. (Using them commercially to prototype parts for medical devices). But for $13K, there should be high expectations. I've had more issues with the Simplify3D slicer than the printers. I inherited 50+ Simplify3D profiles that were modified by previous users for various materials chasing problems that have caused nothing but more problems. So, that's why I ultimately changed to using the PrusaSlicer instead of Simpliy3D. I'm already getting better prints with the PrusaSlicer and its features than I have with Simplify3D. Sometimes it's better to just start over than continue trying to clean up someone else's mess.

[@subspace5679]

Thank you so much for your effort on making this and sharing it with us!

[@3DRevolution]

My pleasure, just glad to see what I make here helps people out. Thanks for your comment, much appreciated!

[@dragnet53]

If I can figure this software out, then I am for sure going to stick with PrusaSlicer. This has way more potential than Cura or IdeaMaker.

[@3DRevolution]

It's definitely an impressive bit of software, especially for free. Let me know if there's anything in particular that I've not yet covered that you'd like me to do a video on. Happy printing!

[@joeking5211]

Hi, Just started just over week ago to make sense of, well, mainly SuperSlicer as I have 3 home designed printers that run Klipper, and as yet PS does not seem to support this, but from what mamouth amounts of reading and vids I have gone through this week it seems that most tutorials suit either, I hope I got that right. I have to say, well done and thank you for your time and effort on this and the starter vid I watched first, these are so far the only vids of yours I have seen. BUT. ( there always one ), I have had all my printers, from day one sliced with S3D and on wifi ( each a rPi with then octoprint but now Klipper & Fluidd ), and am trying to make sense of getting Physical printers in the Physical printer listbox of SS & PS and making sure that the the Print Settings / User settings etc etc are kept together with the relevant actual 'hardware' printer, so that is why I am leaving this msg to say, you seem to be a Level 1 expert with these slicers, could you please tell all us plebs how we should set this all up. From all of the thousands of comments from new users and vids such as here I have come to the conclusion that maybe most new or even so called seasoned users may only be using one (1) printer on or off wifi, and if so there seems to be less chance of these issues as everything you do is targeted to that one so silly mistakes are less likely to be made to screw up all you multitude of hours of sweat getting your settings tuned in for each machine. So as this was an Advance tutorial I had thought that this would have been covered. I cannot find any documentation that make sense out this or the confusion which again you skipped over with regard to the 'Dependencies' sub menus where I believe that you have to in some way remove settings from one printers settings to be able to used with your own by using the, checkboxes and removing the text from the already populated edit boxes underneath them. I could go on but will leave it there for your findings to see if you can decipher my futile attempt at explanation of my issues, and why after 10+ years of S3D and 3 wifi connected printers working fine, I have lost over a week lost life with a so called 'modern day' application and I am still totally lost with SS & PS and still see no hope of getting a 'usable' slicer going as with the 10+ year old antique s/w. What am I missing ?. Keep up the good work, many thks for all your time doing these vids and Kind Rgds.

[@3DRevolution]

Hi Joe, I'll look into doing a video specifically about setting up PS with custom printers. Keep watch.

[@jimmym2719]

Thank you bro. I learn a lot tonite. Awesome tutorial 👍

[@3DRevolution]

Glad it helped! Happy printing

[@bluerider0988]

Is there an easy way to print multiple materials of you don't have an mmu. Aka a manual filiment change. For example say you want to print petg for a portion and TPU for another with different filiment settings for each?

[@3DRevolution]

Unfortunately not that I'm aware of but that would be a fantastic feature if Prusa can do that. At the moment, the only way I could suggest switching material mid-print would be set up automated filament changes as per my video here (kzbin.info/www/bejne/oarVnH2YedGWo6s), print it using Octoprint, and when you cange the filament, set a temperature offset for your hot end to reflect the temperatures you need to use for the new filament relative to the old one. Whilst there is no speed offset, you could adjust it slightly using the feed rate modifier and/or the flow rate modifier if you needed to slow things down for TPU printing. That would technically allow you to switch materials mid-print but it would still only allow you to switch at different layer heights, not for certain shape definied areas of the print.

[@dragnet53]

I hope you get that multiple extruder tutorial done. I have a Phaetus Taichi hotend and confused on how to use it in the software part.

[@3DRevolution]

I'll add Phaetus Taichi to the list. My multi-extruder videos are coming, but I've got a few other projects I'm working through at the moment so they're probably a little while off yet.

[@beerius2349]

super helpful video. I'm sick of paying for simplify3d when slicer is free and clearly way better.

[@3DRevolution]

Really glad it could be of help, thanks for commenting!

[@dragnet53]

I was thinking about getting that software, but after hearing you have to pay for upgrades, is when I said no thanks.

[@9scorpions]

thank you sir! On to the next tutorial in your list :)

[@3DRevolution]

Glad you're enjoying them. Got several more PrusaSlicer videos coming up, working on one as we speak in fact. Happy printing!

[@Am-yo4hx]

thanks bro. i am using pla material and i want to control it to be air proof what setting shall i change and increase for that goal?

[@3DRevolution]

Hey, I'm afraid it's unlikely you'll print something that's truly air-tight (which is what I'm asuming you mean), but the best things to adjusty to work towards that would be to increase your perimeter layers, as well as top and bottom shells.

[@AaronBrand]

I’m looking for a way to make the bottom layer smoother (on the print bed which, for the parts I’m making is actually the top). Perhaps I should try ironing?

[@3DRevolution]

I'm afraid Ironing won't affect the bottom layer of your prints. You'd need to invert your prints so that it becomes the top layer so that you can apply ironing to those areas.

[@LeftJoystick]

You may need to lower the nozzle ever so slightly so that you have more “squish” for your first layer. You can then use the “Elephant’s Foot Compensation” setting in Prusa Slicer to get rid of any sharp edges on the first layer due to the increased “squish”. I use an elephant foot compensation of .25-.28 depending on the material I am using. I’ve even gone up to .3 at one point haha. You can print a simple calibration cube and measure its dimensions to tune in your Elephant Foot Compensation.

[@Smokinjoewhite]

Is there a way to change acceleration for only the outer perimeter? I know cura has this option, but I can't find it in prusa slicer, as a result I use cura more often if I possibly can because I can get better quality and faster print times, Cura also prints infill way more sensibly IMO, far less unnecessary movements, not just the infill itself, but the unneeded "patchwork" top and bottoms.

[@3DRevolution]

If there is I'm not currently aware of it I'm afraid. You can change the acceleration speed of the perimeters in general but not specifically the outer ones.

[@dmax9324]

What does default acceleration mean if you set all of the other accelerations to a specific value? I assumed it would mean travel move acceleration, as long as all other accelerations were set to a different value, but this didn't seem to be the case. I don't see anywhere to specifically speed up the travel move acceleration only. Thanks!

[@3DRevolution]

Hey DMax, my understanding is that Default acceleration kicks in when it's printing any area that you've not specified a specific acceleration setting to. So let's say you had acceleration for Infill and Bridge set to "0", in those sections it would use whatever you've got set as default. If you've set a rate of acceleration for every component (Perimeters, Infill, Bridges, First layer, and First object layer over Raft), then the Default acceleration setting wouldn't be used.

[@AndyX6281]

you help me so much thanks

[@3DRevolution]

Really glad to hear it! Happy to have helped! Happy printing!

[@venko3211]

Hello I am using.8 Nozzle. Please advise me for best settings

[@3DRevolution]

That entirely depends the material you're using, the 3D Printer you're using, and the model you're printing. Experiment and find what works for you.

[@raymondfussell5785]

I have used Prusa Slicer and rather like it, there is one thing that annoys me is, I have a Ender5 Plus, when it has finished printing the bed returns to the bottom of the printer, now with Cura when it finishes printing it stays where the print finishes, is there a settings in Prusa that stops it returning to the bottom, I would like your thoughts on how to fix this. Thanks..

[@3DRevolution]

Hey Raymond. Ah ok so that'll be to do with your End G-Code (a script which runs at the end of the print). The End G-Code can be changed, added to or deleted, and you can get to it by going into the 'Printer Settings' tab, then down to 'Custom G-Code'. You may have a different end code by default as they can vary depending on what printer you've got it set to, however, from there you can just remove the commands to home or move the z-axis. However, what you don't want is for the print to finish and for the hot end to still remain sat touching the top of your print. So, even if you prevent the z axis from homing, you'll still want your bed to drop a few mm and to move the X and or Y axis to ensure the hot end moves sufficiently out of the way.

[@1937Brett]

What is minimal shell thickness do

[@3DRevolution]

Minimum shell thickness is the thinnest you'd want your top and bottom solid layers to be. There is also your solid layers setting where you set the target amount of top and bottom solid layers, but minimum shell thickness is set as mm rather than a quality of layers, so if you changed your later height to something smaller where your number of top solid layers wouldn't be as thick as the thickness you'd set, it would add extra.

[@1937Brett]

@@3DRevolution thank you very well explained and do you know if pursa has an avoid print when printing setting or something similar to stop my nozzle catching my print

[@gaionaus]

Yes you pronounce arachne ( Αράχνη = spider ) correct...

[@3DRevolution]

Haha thanls. I'm actually a wildlife camera opp by profession so am more than familiar with Arachidae, but I wasn't sure if this was some other funky name that happened to share a spelling. Thanks for confirming :)

[@gaionaus]

@@3DRevolution It is just the Hellenic name. In modern Hellenic "αράχνη" and in ancient Hellenic "ἀράχνη" . Both are pronounced the same. I'm Hellin or Greek if you prefer :) . Anyway nice tutorial. I am thinking to start using the Prusa slicer (using simplify 3D) and wondering what the new features are. I am not going to pay for the licence of Simplify 3D ver 5 again, so good to know that the prusa slicer has all the new features that Simplify ver 5 has. You helped a lot. Thank you.

[@3DRevolution]

@@gaionaus Really interesting to know, thanks for sharing :)

[@yagoa]

jerk settings analysis?

[@3DRevolution]

Sorry, what are you after here?

[@yagoa]

LOL not as in a person but, jerk is a acceleration parameter that I don't fully understand in prusaslicer@@3DRevolution

[@3DRevolution]

@@yagoa haha yeah I got that (or at least hoped). I just wasn't quite sure your question. Ok well you know how acceleration is the rate of change of speed, well jerk is the rate of change of acceleration. So Jerk is to Acceleration what Acceleration is to Speed.

[@yagoa]

So if i would have a large unstable print on the build-plate I would want to lower Jerk rather than Acceleration@@3DRevolution

[@3DRevolution]

@@yagoa Lowering acceleration a little less than you would if you were only editing that, plus lowering jerk, may be more effective than only lowering acceleration.

[@Large_list]

Nice!

[@allendubberly1649]

This is a great video but I was hoping for a tutorial on the actual use and navigation of the software itself. Like bringing in a file, Imports, and import configs, and importing from a "project". How are the files structured? What about selecting the settings you want, slicing it, then wanting to modify it because of the print taking too long? Then trying to re-slice it, what about saving? What happens when you try to save a certain setting? when and how does it save those setting changes? Why don't they show up some times? Why doesn't it want to "Re-slice" sometimes? Can you just load a setting once you have the next print on the plate or do you need to go through and input all of them again? What's the difference between "Import" model and the plus button? Are the preview and editor view tabs at the bottom doing anything other than changing the screen or do they allow changes after the Slicing? And what about the "File" , "edit", "Window", and all of those tabs? And what is the "Configuration" wizard and snapshots do? If you don't go into that kind of details, could you point me to a video that does? Thank you! Great job on what you did cover!

[@3DRevolution]

Hi Allen, I'm glad you enjoyed the video. The reason I didn't cover anything that you've listed in this video is because the purpose of this video was explicitly to do a walk through the features in PrusaSlicer which are made accessible when you switch to 'Advanced' and 'Expert' modes in the software. I will be doing plenty more videos in the future though and will try and cover everything. I do have a few questions about what you've requested though as I'm not sure I'm fully understanding what you're asking for. If you have sliced a model, and the print time is going to be too long and you'd like to change your settings, you just slice it again but with the settings changes you'd like. There's no special process for slicing a model multiple of times. That seems to address several of your questions. When you say saved settings aren't showing up, could you give a bit more details about this as I'm not really sure what you mean? You absolutely don't need to go through all of your settings each time you want to slice a new design. You can save your presets (or select from the several different pre-assigned presets already in there) and that means you can have all the settings you need pre-set up. Just select your print settings preset from the dropdown menu at the top right, select your filament preset from the dropdown menu at the top right, if you want to make any specific changes, make them, then hit slice, done! Regarding the difference between the import button and the plus button, I cover that in this video. I explain that the import feature brings in a new model and even if you already had another copy of that model imported as well, they will be treated completely independently. The plus button on the other hand creates a new instance of the model you have selected and so any adjustments you make to the original model (such as modifiers etc) will be reflected in all the instances you create. For this just jump to 1:22 on this video and I take you through this feature. The preview and editor tabs are basically just changing the style of view. You can't switch to the Preview tab until you've sliced your model, and once you've sliced it, if you then jump back to the editor view and make any changes to your settings, you'll need to re-slice to update it's toolpath before you can switch back to the preview. Like I said, I do have a lot more videos on the way and they will likely cover a lot of what you're after, but let me know if there's anything more specifically you'd like help with.

[@rudeboyiiii]

thanks

[@3DRevolution]

You're welcome. Take care!

[@Cheddar-420]

Prusa Slicer Grievances : Arachne's bad, shouldn't be default I have had more unacceptable surface finishes because of this one setting than any other factor in printing bar none. It leaves voids, gaps, and layer heights/widths are all over the place evident in the finished print. I have had it print seams so poorly they were almost all the way through the model. On classic? Prints perfect, as in you can barely tell it's 3d printed. The difference is drastic. The real kicker to me is the inconsistency. I can slice then print the same part 5 times and get 5 different results. I can look at any print coming off my printer and tell immediately if I forgot to turn Arachne to Classic. The Print Settings/Filament Settings/ Printer settings all need to be combined. All the presets of default settings need to be removed from the drop downs and loaded independently from the "edit" menu. This would alleviate all the bloat in your Print Settings drop down where you change your layer heights, You wouldn't have .15 layer height followed by .15 Layer height (Modified). It's a bloated system that needs a serious overhaul. It's a hinderance to productivity. Object Exclusion is mis-categorized currently under Print settings> Output options when it should be either under the network printing setup or Printer Settings. There's no reason to ever turn this off if your printer/firmware is capable of utilizing it. It needs to be better at recognizing threads and printing them with the right settings automatically. I can print perfect threads.... but the settings all have to be changed manually. It's annoying I should not need a preset to print threads. The slicer should be able to detect threads, especially those made with a thread tool in a program like Fusion360. This should be high priority it would save so many people so many headaches. One of the major problems for me though is the constant nagging to save settings, which is just a symptom of the bloat. Autosave could be a helpful feature but it will not work in the current state of this slicer. Due to the way that printer/filament/printer settings/layer heights/network settings function. I normally have multiple instances of the slicer open at once, to close 5 instances of the slicer and have each nag me to save settings is annoying. If instead the slicer opened multiple projects under the same instance... oh boy. would that be lovely. have project tabs like a webbrowser? This bad UI design, cluttered drop downs and just overall bloat in the menus has lead to me never saving settings. Which inevitably leads to me messing up prints because settings I have changed before need changed again and I forget 1 settings out of the 15,000,000 , or I change layer height and something that should not change does. as far as functionality it's great, if you get all your settings right it works wonderfully, and I don't really want to use another slicer, but in it's current state at 2.7.1? The UI's still bad, it still needs a massive overhaul, and it's poor workflow. Settings are still default that are detrimental to a lot of peoples print quality, I'm sure some without even realizing it and just thinking it's their printer.

[@SomeCrazyVids]

What's the benefit of "External Perimeter First"? You don't explain anything about it other than what the name already states.

[@kapilkotadiya]

Video is very good but it should be detailed

[@3DRevolution]

Hi there, glad you like the video, but I don't quite know what you mean by it should be detailed. Let me know and I'll see if I can help.

[@kapilkotadiya]

@@3DRevolution Like is there any option available in prusaslicer for layer printing customization? I want to print layer 1,2,3 with Material A, then gain print layer1,2,3 with material B. Is that possible?

[@3DRevolution]

@@kapilkotadiya I believe you're talking about automating filament changes, I've made a video specifically about this which you can find here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oarVnH2YedGWo6ssi=9IJZYcDihGuEKHJd

[@kapilkotadiya]

@@3DRevolution Yes, This is nearer to what I'm looking for. By the way, thank you for the nice video.

[@dubiervalenciar]

I'm came here for the Arache perimeter generator