3rd Gen 2015 Honda Fit Flickering Fuel Gauge/Odometer Fix

[@bruceeppinger3356]

Thanks for sharing this. My 2015 has the same issue. I am trying to force a recall. People should not have to deal with this.

[@earleharris1999]

how can we push to have Honda do a recall? My 2015 Honda Fit also has this issue.

[@bacbariboscru3590]

i would think this is a safety issue, as a gas guage is somewhat important??? my wife's 2018 HRV just started doing it, that is what brought me to this video. luckily i have the skills to fix it, but i shouldn't have to.

[@WastedDad]

Where do i sign up

[@HT078]

My 2015 Honda fit has the same issue,now is this a recall?

[@IlikeLucy]

This issue has been the bane of my existence with my 2016 fit for several years now, Honda refuses to look at this video and insists I need a $1,000 replacement of the whole dash, it’s criminal honestly that they can get away with this, it seems to happen to a lot of people

[@lonemountainrambler]

Finally! This is the first video I've found addressing this problem. I refuse to take it to Honda because I know they'd act like my entire computer was shot and quote me something ridiculous. THANKS man.

[@andycullen9311]

Yeah, no prob man! I couldn't find a video about it either, and after dozens of hours scouring forums for a fix I finally got mine done. It's been a month or two now and mine has still been working perfectly ever since. I'm always watching little tutorials like this so I figured it was my turn to give back!

[@deltatauhobbit]

Thanks a bunch (probably $1000 worth to replace the entire console, as Honda would have liked to do). I have a 2016 Fit and it had been flickering on and off for probably a few years now. It's been pretty much off the past 6 months so I instanta failed my inspection because they couldn't get an odometer reading. Fortunately, I had a wood burning kit I've used for soldering when I was younger. Bought some proper lead solder just to do this. Those connections were really small. My first attempt was really bad and didn't work. Had to remove it all again; my second attempt was much cleaner and worked. So for anyone that strikes out the first time, keep at it, it should work for you as well. Definitely make sure to plug it in to check before trying to jam the console back in because getting that sucker back in was harder than getting it out.

[@jeffm1760]

I've had the same problem forever with my 2016 HRV. Thanks. And Honda continues to put this same cluster into new cars without taking care of the issue...crazy

[@rdickman7559]

Thank you for taking the time to make and post this video. I was able to fix the intermittent problem that was becoming quite annoying on my wife's 2019 Fit. I probably would not have attempted to fix it myself without this video. Thanks again.

[@aurtisanminer2827]

I figured that a loose connection was causing this on my 2016. If I hit my dash it flickers. Glad others have found the problem area! I live in Alaska so it’s almost always an issue for me. Lol

[@ethebarbarian]

Wow! I cannot thank you enough for this video @Andy Cullen!! Thank you so much! I did this today on my 2017 Fit! We had this issue for over two yrs but lived with it as it would go away once the car warmed up. However over the last month the screen would be blank at mid seventy degree weather!!! No joke!! Big thanks again!!

[@rogercram571]

Success on a 2016 Honda Fit! Local Honda dealer quoted $1,231 to replace and re-program the instrument cluster which caused me to look for a fix. Thanks for the video.

[@nickhyman1276]

Great video accurately showing the main obstacles; pulling out and putting back the unit. It's quite easy to pull off the instrument surround and ventilator covers. You don't need to remove any other panels. But, like Andy, unscrew the cup-holder panel to the left (the screw is easy to see) and with careful force pull the panel back towards you. It loosens the panels enough for you to wriggle the unit out, and back in later. I have shaky hands and the connector pins to solder are small and close together. I used tiny amounts of solder and took breaks before adding extra until it looked good. Replacing the unit was the reverse of taking it out, and easier, I found. But before you fully tighten the two holding screws either side of the instrument unit, make sure the top centre tab and panel holes line up to screw together. Otherwise, when you clip back the surround, you'll find a gap and the gauges sitting too far back.

[@andycullen9311]

Thanks Nick, glad the video helped!

[@gabestefanescu]

thank you for this tip. it made the job a lot easier.

[@crackhatch4565]

At first I was doubting my son and wife when they told me it was flickering. But I saw your video and I just fixed my son’s 2016 Fit! Thanks a ton!

[@touxiong7814]

Well, my friend's 2019 Honda HR-V which share the same gauge cluster is having the same issue. They will have to figure out and get this solder by someone else or do it themselves.

[@jayparas9409]

Thanks for sharing! This worked for my 2018 Fit. When removing the unit, I used an old gift/credit/ID card to help wiggle the difficult pieces out. This helped a lot, especially on the right hand side

[@jayparas9409]

Also thank you for putting yourself through the process again for educational purposes 😅

[@zakr72]

Much cheaper than the $1000+ replacement cost that honda offered me lol. Thanks! 🍻

[@nicknackworkshop]

BRILLIANT! Thank you so much for the tutorial, it worked great! One note is that my car took about 3 minutes to reset before it would turn on, a bit scary in the moment, but once it turned back on all worked flawlessly. Thank you!!

[@jonnelson6448]

Thanks a lot for the video. I followed this procedure for my 2019 Fit. Success. And one month later, and after our coldest spell in 30 years, the display still works as new. The only suggestions I would add are 1) To help this initial removal, after removing the trim ring cover over the right-side vent-fan, I found that the vent itself can be pulled straight out. I didn't pull it all the way out, just enough to move the left side out. It helped to get the display out. 2) After pulling out the front panel and unplugging it, I found that the trickiest part was next--getting it out from behind the steering wheel. On our car, it was a very tight squeeze to get the panel out from behind the steering wheel (even though it was lowered). 3) The pins to solder are extremely small and close together. I used a headband with magnifier to see what I was doing. These are nice work accessories for any small-scale work and only cost about $20. 4) Before soldering, I loosely put wide masking tape over the circuit board everywhere except where I was soldering to reduce the chance that a piece flew off and causes a short somewhere.

[@BrandonRaehl]

Thank you so much for this! I was able to follow you directions and solve the problem, but I must say getting that odometer console out was incredibly difficult. Also, if you have never soldered before, you're going to really want to practice before you try this. Those pins are INCREDIBLY small. Definitely connect the odometer BEFORE you try and push it back in to check that the gauge will work. Mine did not work the first time after soldering because my soldering wasn't that great on some pins. I'm not sure if it was because the solder didn't take on one pin or because some of the solder was touching the pin next to it. Either way I fixed both the issues and got the gauge to work right when I started the car. A HUGE RELIEF! This is definitely doable, but I caution you again that getting that Odometer out is ALMOST impossible and soldering those tiny pins will likely require a magnifying glass to see properly. Good luck.

[@lidiapacheco5998]

I got my 2019 Honda Fit less than a year ago and the problem started about a month after I bought it. The dealership won’t even answer our calls anymore and we moved 4 hrs from where we bought it. I took it to the dealer near me and they said they couldn’t find any issue since it happened to not be doing it at the time I took it. I feel like getting a lawyer at this point.

[@EndlessSky-mt2ku]

Same problem over here. I took it to Honda while under warranty since it was flickering, which was last summer, and they told me "Not to worry about it because it's a common issue" Now I took it back for maintenance and they are telling me I need a whole new cluster!! It feels as if they waited for my warranty to run out.

[@marklackey7271]

Thanks Andy for the repair video!!! You did a great job with explaining and showing how to fix this issue.

[@crimsonera]

I just used this video to fix the issue on my 2015 Fit. Thanks for the vid, it really made it simple to do.

[@cruzzguzman]

Perfect video, worked easily with re-soldering. Also when taking out the IPC yes those middle vents do come out by just prying them off (no additional screws so don't worry about it breaking) i had to take it out due to my push to Start/Stop malfunctioning, i had an issue with having to push it 4-5 times before the car would start. So i watch another video on how to take that off and found out you can take out the middle vent by using a pry tool or pulling really hard. Thanks for the video G!

[@kelseyc3143]

Same issue on my 2018 Honda hrv.. thanks for sharing !

[@ConwayMichaelF]

Thanks Andy for putting this up. I was able to fix this problem on my daughter's 2015 Fit in under an hour.

[@ocirebla3000]

Thank you so much my friend! It's working now 🙌 the welding part was a little hard. Good bless you!

[@Fredjikrang]

Thank you for this! Just did this fix to my 2016 HRV. It was a bit easier to get the instrument cluster out of the car on the HRV, but everything else was the same. Thank you! Saved me a bunch of time and money!

[@touxiong7814]

Wow! My friend 2019 Honda HR-V is having the same issue. Now, they can get it fix. It was found in the summer until this winter, and it started to flickering. Thank you for sharing.

[@touxiong7814]

Thank you for doing this video. My friends Honda HR-V, which have the same gauge cluster is having the same flickering Fuel/OD gauge in the cold weather as well. I think she need to have her resolder too. Nice video and great job!

[@RB-ex5xy]

Yeah, thanks much! Dealer quoted me 1250 to replace cluster today on fit 2015. I said no! Still need to pick it up ftom them but will be doing your fix soon. I will comment once done

[@TomMississippi]

How did it go? lol

[@RB-ex5xy]

@Tom M still need to fix...once we get good weather; i will post once done ...maybe june sometime

[@SibleyHousehold]

Ever fix it? ​@@RB-ex5xy

[@elcid4130]

Awesome, thanks for the video! I have been putting this off thinking it was probably a ribbon cable that I was going to have to get creative with 😂. Luckilly, this is pretty simple.. Thanks again.

[@976Gregg]

Great video. I was able to fix my 2015 fit. Thanks for taking the time to share.

[@jeffyholla1095]

Tackeling this job next. For now I’m permanently fixing (I think) the skid plates falling off continuously. Anyone else with this issue too? I found some clips and bolts to take care of it. I’ll leave part numbers soon.

[@gabestefanescu]

I had the same issue with my 2015 Honda Fit. Thank you so much for sharing this.

[@chapinaventurero2929]

I have the same problem with my honda fit 2015 your video helped me a lot thanks

[@andycullen9311]

Great to hear! Glad I could help

[@Poetic69]

Nice my 2019 fit is having this issue i thought i was the only one. Now to learn how to solder 😅

[@jesseschwenk5310]

Thanks for the tutorial! Just did mine and it works like a dream! Cheers!

[@odinrojas7297]

Thanks!, I would try it, I recently get my own honda fit 2015 and I recently notice this issue with the odometer, Great solution! which I really appreciate!

[@paulbryson9921]

I had the exact same issue with my 2015 Honda Fit (display scrambled/flickering when cold). I fixed it by just jiggling/twisting the display dimming knob. The problem has not returned. I guess it was a dirty encoder/potentiometer.

[@know1ofconsequence490]

Hi. I have an HRV that has the same issue. Would the fix be the same?

[@luannproctor672]

I have the exact problem. The dealer told me today the part I need is 900. And 225 to install.

[@andycullen9311]

Yeah I think they just replace the entire instrument cluster if you bring it in. Seems a bit over kill when the issue is a poorly designed solder connection that can pretty easily be resoldered. Took me about an hour to do start to finish. When I did it again to film this video it took about a half hour because I had already done it. I already had the soldering iron and solder so it was basically free for me. Even if you had to buy a nice soldering iron for $100 it's still WAY cheaper to DIY than to pay the dealership to replace a perfectly fine instrument cluster just because a few pins need to be soldered. Hope the vid helped!

[@nickhyman1276]

@@andycullen9311 The whole job, following yours and another too simplitstic video, took me a couple of hours. I took my time with the soldering.

[@jennys9043]

@@andycullen9311 and if Honda isn't admitting that there's anything wrong with the original gauge cluster, i doubt they use higher quality materials in the new one. so $1000+ to replace it with something that's probably going to break again, vs a tedious diy repair job + materials that should fix it permanently. easy choice!

[@gaff0057]

Hey I need your address to send you that drink! I’ve been having this issue on the wife’s car for a while and now I know exactly what to do to fix it!

[@andycullen9311]

Haha, glad it helped you out!

[@larryivey8118]

Having the same issue with my 2017 Fit EX-L with about 80,000 miles when it's cooler in the morning I never had any issues with my first Fit my 2009 had 302,000 miles on it and never an issue with the cluster

[@Driveinnauto]

Thanks for sharing 👏🏿

[@patygomez2283]

Hi, does anyone know if this procedure works for a Honda City 2017? The symptoms are the same, but I like to know if the troublesome solder connections at the board are the same. Thanks!

[@GHOST_AG3NT]

I e been trying to find the starter relay anyone know exactly where it's at?

[@Maria-xw6qe]

Hello, can you list the tools needed to do the soldering and if there are specific sizes needed for such a tiny pins?

[@andycullen9311]

Hi Maria, you'll want at minimum a soldering iron that has temp control and a fine tip. I use a Hakko brand, but if this is the only job you plan on using it for, I'm sure you could get away with something cheaper, you just want to be able to set the temp and have a pretty fine tip on it, as in not a chisel style tip, something that comes to a point. You'll also want some small rosin core or flux core electrical solder, 1mm or less, preferably 1mm or 0.8 mm. I set my temp to about 750f, tin the iron (just touch the rosin core solder to it until you have a little bit melted onto the tip), I then touch that tip to the pad and pin at the same time at each of the 8 pins. It should melt within a second or two, and I just added a bit of the lead solder to it once it was melted/flowing. This is important because not only are you adding lead to the solder, you're also adding flux from the rosin core, which helps the existing solder to flow and the lead helps prevent this problem from happening in the future. The whole process takes 5 or so seconds from start to finish per pin, you don't want to leave it on there transferring heat to everything around it for too long! So to summarize, once I tinned the tip of my iron, I touched it to each pad/pin, once it melted I added a bit of 1mm solder to it and then removed the iron to let it harden, one pin at a time. It's been 2 years now, and it's worked great ever since. If you want to do it perfectly properly you would get some soldering wick, use that to remove the solder, and then continue on with soldering each pin. Remove and resolder one pin at a time so the other pins hold it in position! I'm sure there are a lot of videos explaining this very well, you could try searching something like "soldering PCB pads" or "solder wick on PCB" if you would like to dive deeper. Hope that helps

[@user-vj7dp2ps9r]

I used to solder as part of my job. I would highly suggest use of rosin core solder only, as acid core can damage other areas of the circuit board.

[@zekferrer1944]

Hello do you have a pinout diagram of the guage cluster. I need to tap a defi guage to the speed and RPM signal from the ECU i think the guages are the easiest way to get the signal wire. thanks

[@andycullen9311]

Sorry, not sure which pin is which. Wish I could help!

[@6765677777]

Hi those four things that are right there, you have to weld them or what do I have to do?

[@andycullen9311]

The 8 pins that I pointed out in the video will have to be resoldered with a soldering iron. You could just simply touch a hot soldering iron to each pin to melt the existing solder which will remake the connection. What I did was remove the old solder with a soldering wick and redo each pin with lead solder. This should prevent the problem from ever happening in the future, as lead solder has much better thermal expansion properties than unleaded solder (although lead solder is more dangerous to work with and has somewhat poisonous fumes while melting it)

[@6765677777]

@@andycullen9311 thanks😎👍👍👍

[@nickhyman1276]

@@andycullen9311 I don't disagree, but I didn't need to remove the old solder. So far it's working well.

[@bwp253]

@@nickhyman1276 This is what I was looking for! Hoping I can just re-melt it and make it a lot simpler!

[@GeeTrieste]

9:56 What? The dealer charges $1500 to fix that?!

[@nelagayo1508]

This happens to my HR-V 2019, will the fix be the same?

[@andycullen9311]

No idea honestly. If the symptoms are the same I would guess it is caused by a faulty solder connection also, but finding the troublesome solder connections will be the hard part. Sorry, wish I could help!

[@user-vj7dp2ps9r]

I would suggest inspecting all the solder joints under a strong magnifying glass. Look for cracks in solder connections by comparing with nearby connections, if even a small crack is visible just resolder to be sure. I would inspect all of them because you might find more than one cracked... hopefully u can test the assembly without having to fully reinstall in ur HRV like u can on the FIT