4F27E Rebuild

[@Roscotech]

Once again, thanks for taking the time. I think this is one of your better videos. You really took the time to show some of the things you sometimes breeze through (and I mean absolutely ZERO disrespect). This one is surprisingly simple. I have a manual ordered but it didn’t make it in time. I was noticing that it looks like in a pinch the actual transmission portion of this unit could be rebuilt without even splitting the case open. Take the pump out and the rear cover and everything you need to take out will come out. Just a thought.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Technically you could. If it wasn't for the servo bore being worn out in 90 percent of them, just about anyone could do this unit. Thanks for watching them.

[@josephperry4344]

Tom, you are my new best friend! I watched your video's @ naseum insuring I would rebuild my transmission properly. I was able to bore the servo, resurface my valve body, rebuild the overdrive/reverse drum with your help. My car works better than ever!!!! thank you!!! thank you!!! thank you!!!

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.

[@kirk1156]

i just got my trans completed watching your videos and reading your comments, appreciate it, super helpful. Some time in the next 2 weeks ill get it installed and see if it works hahaha btw at 1:15:21 you mention the hole not lining up with anything. the technical service manual actually shows a DTR sensor alignment tool number 307-415 that bolts on and lines up with the hole.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Thanks for watching. Hope all goes well. You don't actually need the tool. If you look closely on the sensor there is a neutral line. The lever that bolts on will have a line also. Line those up. If it does not you can still line it up with the center of the shaft. If you cannot do that you can use a scanner to line it up.

[@kirk1156]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Great news, the transmission works perfectly! at first i had a problem and i got a code "p0705 transmission range sensor". i ended up getting another sensor from the junkyard and that solved the problem. Somehow mine went bad. Thanks again for your videos, I spent a lot more in parts rebuilding this thing that i had originally anticipated but i know i wont have any issues with it now! thanks!

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

@@kirk1156 Good to hear.

[@Roscotech]

I just wanted to add something I figured out on this unit! The shifter doesn’t like to go into the park position when it’s upside down!!! The rod that pushes the park lever down gets hung up on the guide for some reason. Flip it over and try that before you start tearing it back apart like I did!

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Yeah, it relies on gravity to keep it in position. Only has a guide on the bottom part.

[@akaitv6606]

Excellent work from a master

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Thanks for watching.

[@jimmertech1230]

Thank,s for the video. I have learned a lot.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

You are welcome! Thanks for watching.

[@coffee702]

Dang, replacing solenoid block might be not easy without taking down the transmission.. 2007 mazda 2, got a hit under the oil sump, and it crushed the EPC solenoid. Replaced oil sump, filter, and EPC, but now shifting hard between 1-2-3 gears. Also big shaking when I put it in R while it's cold. Car showing p0745 00 solenoid circuit malfunction error... I hope replacing other 5 solenoids just solves the problem :( the springs may pop out if I pull out the whole circult.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

When the EPC Solenoid got damaged it may have damaged the wiring harness also. It is shifting hard because it has a code in it and has raised the line pressure. You can replace the solenoids without pulling the valve body. To change the wiring harness you will need to remove the valve body. And yes the accumulators and their springs are probably going to fall out. Springs are different for both so put them back where they come from. Did you clear the codes after you replaced the solenoid? And are you positive the harness is plugged into the solenoid completely? It may be a bad connection. The shaking problem, I would look at the mounts for the engine & transmission first.

[@coffee702]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks, I'll try them. Yes, I cleared the code after I replaced the solenoid, but the code came back in a day. Not 100% sure if the harness is fully connected, as the mechanic who replaced the solenoid didn't even bother clearing codes...it still had another old code from 6months ago too. I'll check that too. Do you have any part number for the harness, just in case?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

@@coffee702 XS4Z-7G276-ABif it has not changed.

[@coffee702]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks a lot! I'll give it a shot

[@coffee702]

​@@CurmudgeonTransmissionupdate - yep, the harness was definitely damaged. I replaced the harness and the valve body. Now it shows p0734 and p0751, so the shift solenoid A I replaced might be faulty.. I'll try to replace it again, but after this might be some gear damage I guess... Hope it's not. And yes, I found the mount damage on LH side, waiting for the part too. Thanks for the advice!

[@dattepo7534]

Hi Tom I had code p0767 on my 2013 ford transit changed the solenoids and no luck it’s drives good but when it’s time to shift to second it revs high then lowers assuming it went to 3rd looked online some one mentioned to check the band “ now I found out about the servo is there a way to check it ? I don’t want to tear more of the transmission apart it’s still in the van on jack stands .. also when I took the cover off the band was loose came off easy I didn’t know there was a tension bolt so basically I just wiggled it off

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

The band should definitely not come off that easy. Make sure the surface of the drum is ok where it rides. You got about a 90 percent odds that the bore of the servo is worn out. I use an old servo pin to check the bore once the servo is out. Problem is you need the linkage rod out to get the servo out, and you can't get it out in the vehicle. When you get to the point of adjusting the band after you fix it. There are about 6 different factory tension bolts. Just buy the Superior K0121, and adjust it yourself. Makes life so much easier. Mine usually end up about a turn and a half to 2 turns.

[@dattepo7534]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission dang it I’ll start taking everything apart then .. do you have the link for the servo rebuild ? I looked thru your links but I’m too dumb to find what I’m looking for .. or if you have a link on the common parts that break ? That way I do the servo the band and the springs “that cushion the shifts”

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

This is the servo bore tool I use. Most other parts I get from WIT or Transtar, those links are in the description. www.northlandtransmission.com/4f27

[@josealcazar2922]

Hey great video. I'm thinking of taking apart the bottom end of my transmission and replacing the accumulator springs and valve body assembly as that's what I've been told up to this point would fix it. When cold is has one of the roughest shifts from first the second and a slight bump from second to third. When warm they both just have a slight bump when shifting. When cold of I accelerate a little, let off the gas, let it up shift and then get back on the gas it shifts no problem. Do you believe replacing these two things would help fix the issue?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Thanks. Hard to say if that will fix it, it may. You have a pressure problem it sounds like. But since it changes as it warms up sounds like it might be a command issue. Are there any codes? Really need to put a pressure gauge on it and see what is going on there. May be a TPS or MAF problem since playing around with the gas affects it. They are bad about wear in the 1-2 accumulator bore. But you have more than one gear affected which leads me back to line pressure. Could be a worn valve body or solenoid.

[@josealcazar2922]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Hey man. Just wanna start by saying thank you. Not many people will go out of their way respond to comments on videos from over two years ago. It's greatly appreciated. The MAF sensor has been replaced with a known good one just a while ago. Another thing I forgot to add was that once warm if you go a bit harder on the gas it shifts from 1 to 2 well. 2 to 3 there is no change. That's what leads me to believe it's the accumulator going bad. On the solenoid side of things I had the car randomly have an insanely hard shift from 2 to third. Turned it off and on again and it fixed itself. What kind pressure should I be looking at when testing it and how should i go about testing the pressure?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

The line pressure port is towards the front of the vehicle, above the pan, just behind the bell housing. I would use at least a 300lb gauge. Reverse should read 65-85 @ idle, all other gears 50-65. When it gets the really hard shift, scan it for codes before you shut it off.

[@dk4622]

Great video! I have a 2012 Transit Connect with this transmission. The rear engine main seal looks like it's going out. I'll be putting in the 3 seals on the transmission even though they don't leak while I'm at it. The Transmission has 165,000 miles and no problems. Would you open the covers to check the clutch plates/band and all or just leave it alone if there is no metal in the pan? What rebuild kit should I buy to have on hand for the seals and all?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Thanks. Transtec kit. I would leave it alone unless you are willing to do a full rebuild on it.

[@dk4622]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission I agree but it's very tempting to look in there after seeing how easy it comes apart. Lol👍

[@thelegend5738]

Hi, rebuilding this transmission has been a nightmare. First, the tranny started to slip a little. When I checked the fluid, I discovered that the oil was a bit dirty and has not been changed in a couple of years. Upon changing the oil, I noticed that there were No metal filings nor any excessive gunk in the pan/magnet. In my opinion, it looked much better than the average when it comes to wear and tear on it. I thought that by changing the fluid just in time, it would have taken care of the problem ; just like it happened in the past with a Toyota. I know it's comparing apples to oranges...lol. However, it continued to slip (delayed changing of gear) hence I decided to do a complete rebuild, hence why I asked the question about the clutches. Now that the transmission was rebuilt by a transmission repair technician, NOTHING was discovered that was obvious to the cause of the problem (clutches and band had about 60% life on it) so I decided to do the complete overhaul anyway. After the overhaul by one technician, the transmission did not go into any of the forward gears, so that technician gave up and told me to take the car to someone else who knows and fixes Ford. So, I took it to a "specialist"who knows about Fords and had it repaired. He told me that I needed a Valve-body, so he sourced a used one and went over the entire transmission and did the repairs. When I got the car back, everything was working fine except that I was getting a very Hard Shift on the Second Gear and a Slightly hard shift on the Third gear. I drove the car for a little while and he did a Relearn on the tranny, but it had no effect. I took the car back to him and he told me that he has to get another Valve-body and replace it to which he did. After installing the Second Valve-body, he told me that it is NOT Hard-Shifting any more, but it is now Slipping. The million dollar question to you is: What do you think that could be causing the problem of Hard-Shifting? I find it strange that the Valve-body would cause both effect. I thought that the accumulators would be responsible for the Hard-Shifting of the gears. I am in desperate need of your expert advice. Much thanks.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

These can be a pain. They either work good or are nothing but trouble. The unit will shift hard if there are codes stored in the system as it puts it into high line pressure. Clear the codes and it may slip till it sets a code if there is a problem. It would be helpful to know what the codes are.

[@mr.anderson3855]

Hi Tom, I just finished a 4F27E complete rebuild with new TC and now have high line pressure at an idle/ stall in all gear ranges, but am also hearing/ getting what sounds like a pump/ converter whining noise only when in reverse or forward ranges, not in park or neutral? Only drove it around the block once and shifts are timed good, no slippage, no leaks & no codes. Thanks for any/ all help!

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

How high is high? Probably a bad filter. Get you one from Ford. Have run into a bunch of bad filters, especially on this transmission it seems. While you have the pan off to do the filter, double check your connections on the solenoids and make sure the ground in there is tight. If it is still high, clear the codes even though it says no codes.

[@mr.anderson3855]

Line pressure (Idle) readings: Park = 80 psi -- Reverse = 120 psi -- Neutral = 80 psi -- Drive, 2nd & 1st = 80 psi. Also replaced all the valve body electronics and seperator plate gaskets as well. Reemed the servo bore & installed the brass bushing sleeve as well. The only thing I didn't do, was vac test the PR Valve (in valve body), but also didn't notice the "noise in gear only" problem before rebuilt either. Burnt up band & direct cluches pretty bad, it initially came in with no 2nd or 4th gear.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

About 20 psi higher than what the book says. Does it engage hard or have firm shifts. I will say I have seen the ford units read higher than what the book says. Also, might try cleaning the MAF sensor.

[@mr.anderson3855]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you! It engages a little hard in "D" but not "R". Shifts are ok, 3 - 4 is a little soft feeling but there timing wise. Has the superior shift kit done, 1-2 accumulator w/ sealing rings & all recommended springs replaced, everything except I did not drill the hole in the PR valve bore. And yes, a brand-new filter from my local trans warehouse. Replaced all solenoids & switches on the VB as well, I know the high line pressure can definitely cause the whining noise I'm only getting in "D" and "R", amongst other major sooner than later malfunctions can happen, so I can't release the vehicle yet until I find the hic-up. Thank you for responding Tom!

[@mr.anderson3855]

Hi Tom, just wanted to inform you that I fixed my high line pressure problem by installing another good used valve body with better pr valve vacuum, however still had the whining noise only at an idle and gradually gets louder with road speed upto around 20 mph before not hearing it anymore, so I'm suspecting I've gotten a defective new torque converter as its quiet in "P" and "N" so that rules out the pump.

[@MDTUTORIAIS]

Good evening, I have Code p0732, I have a 2003 Focus, it presents this error sometimes and starts to strain a lot to change gears. What do you think it could be? I replaced all the solenoids but it didn't help. When I'm driving very slowly with the car between gear 1 and 2 it shows the error on the dashboard, but really, I'm having a problem in gear 2.... thanks thanks

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

There is either a problem in the valve body or inside the unit.

[@2634U]

I have 2013 ford transit connect, it drives fine and low and second I’ve lost overdrive and reverse and when you get up to route 35 to 4000 RPMs in drive it tries to slip any ideas I have changed the two shifts solenoids put in new fluid in it and also put a new filter. Still not working. Any suggestions

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

The end cover and/or the reverse and high drum are worn out.

[@mlaneusmc]

Thanks for the good video! I have 4 of the 2010-2012 ford transit connect work vans and have to replace the transmissions every 65-100k miles. Employees are hard on them. I’m very mechanically inclined and considering getting any special tools required to rebuild them myself at this point. I’ve bought ford reman transmissions and had local shops rebuild and they always wear prematurely. Any advice for making this transmission more durable or should I just buy the servo bore tool haha

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Unfortunately, there is no way to make these more durable. They are a very light duty transmission, don't know why Ford decided to use them in those vans where they will be overstressed all the time. You will need that servo bore tool or you will have to replace the case to even have a fighting chance with this unit. Would also recommend you replace all the bushings and put the Superior valve body kit in them. Superior also makes an adjustable band nut for them, set it at about a turn and a half.

[@mlaneusmc]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you for your time replying and the helpful information. Yeah it really makes no sense why ford would put such an underrated trans in these vans. I was looking at ordering the PA Cargo master rebuilt kit from Rock Auto for like $390. I don’t see your recommendations on rockauto. Where is a good place to source those parts from?

[@mlaneusmc]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission one of my vans recently started shifting hard with maybe a little slip from gear 2-3 or 3-4. Don’t recall exactly off the top of my head but with how it’s gone every time in the past I figure it’s time to rebuild or replace again

[@3leessurfacecleaners]

Thank you for the video, I am considering overhauling my 2013 transit connect transmission. It will not engage in overhaul and displays the wrench light on the dash. It has 112k miles on it. I've replaced the fluid and filter with no change, and no codes present. Any ideas about what it may possibly be? Thanks in advance!

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

If the wrench light is on it should have codes. What scan tool are you using? Won't engage in overdrive or won't engage at all? Both forward and reverse?

[@3leessurfacecleaners]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission transmission seems to slip when it shifts from 3rd to 4th. It gets kicked into neutral instead of 4th gear. I’m also thinking that the rear cover could be worn and causing this issue. I’m using a generic Matco reader. 1st gear has a delayed shift, 2nd and 3rd gear shift okay, but 4th gear won’t engage at all.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Most likely the case is worn out in the servo bore. The band will be burned at the minimum. Only 3 ways to fix it. Buy the reamer and repair it yourself. Buy a case that has been done or buy a new case. Here is the tear down video of this trans. It should be mostly what happens to all of these units. If it doesn't explain all your questions about what to replace get back to me on it, but I think it will. kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZpC6dIWDl86dq7M

[@tylerhamilton181]

How common do the differentials go bad? It feels like mine is missing teeth. Am i able to pull the pump and split the case to replace it without tearing the whole transmission apart. It was just rebuilt 8k miles ago but im the new owner so no warranty. Thank you.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Very rarely. I have seen more transfer gears bad than diff's. If it has not damaged the drive transfer gear then you can just pull the bell housing.

[@tylerhamilton181]

Ok thank you for the reply. What makes me think it's the diff is because it's seems like the diff is locked and it's fights you when you try and steer. I'll tear it apart and find out. Thanks again

[@atomickodiak4314]

I wonder why he doesn't do the cross drill for full time lube on the valve body?

[@thelegend5738]

Hi, I have a Ford Focus MK2 (2006)European built with a 4F27E transmission (I believe, not confirmed) and I want to rebuild it. How do I know for sure if my transmission carry a single sided or a double sided clutches in order to purchase the right kit? My car has about 80K miles, and I have never changed the oil in about 6 years of ownership. I noticed a feedback on the transmission at one time, so I immediately checked the oil. I noticed the oil was VERY dirty (brown river water in color) so I changed it myself. I noticed that there were NO metal filings nor any excessive clutch material in the pan, next to nothing at all. I have seen much worse that didn't have a problem. Overall, everything looked, I would say better than average inside the pan. After changing the oil, the transmission started giving different codes indicating Shift Solenoid C fault, Engine System Defaults, and Transmission Gear Ratio Incorrect. Sometimes the car would have a Hard Shift and a prolong shift from first to second gear. I also noticed that the car was stuck in high gear and would take off in same gear. I changed out the oil again and put back in the same old solenoid since the new solenoid continued giving the same code. The solenoid code went away afterwards even with the old one. What are your thoughts as to what could be the problem/issue with my transmission? Someone mentioned that the pressure valve could be sticking and causing the problem. I also saw that they are selling a modified shift kit for this transmission. Would that help or fix my situation? Thank you for your help.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

I have swapped out the doubles for singles with no problems. There comes a point when changing your fluid will do more damage than good. Yours is a case in point. When your fluid looked like that you should have left it alone. When it looks like that varnish is being created. New fluid is high in detergent and will wash all varnish away creating problems. Can even wash the linings right of the clutches, as the glue gets broken down. I would also look at the cooling system on the vehicle. The transmission is probably running hotter than normal and will cause the fluid to do that. I would not use aftermarket solenoids on this unit, they cause all kinds of problems. I use the Superior kit in this valve body. Superior also makes an adjustable pin for the band that I use. The servo bore is usually worn out. Changing the fluid probably washed all the varnish out of this area that was helping seal that off and is creating leaks in that area now. I would also change all the pistons and bushings in there.

[@JohnnyCarroll-wi6tx]

hello,I have a 2005 ford focus zx-4.with the same trans.when vehicle is cold,shiting from park to drive,it bumps hard.no other problems.whet it is warm,there is no problems.any ideas?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Idle speed and line pressure would be my first checks.

[@kingsl2000]

So I’m trying to help the 18 year old neighbor kid still in HighSchool and works full time. He has a 2011 ford focus. He doesn’t have the money to take it in somewhere, plus it’s a good life lesson to know how to fix things. But anyways, It wouldn’t shift past 3rd gear unless you really rev the rpm. Didn’t realize the servo bore might be the issue before I replaced the solenoids and clean the valve body with him. We should have waited until the next day when we had better light before putting it all back in. Because the Manual shift lever wasn’t in the slot on the park prawl, and when we shifted it I think it became bent. It doesn’t move freely inside the valve body anymore. When you slide it in to bout the 3rd circle it stops. I have looked everywhere for this replacement part but I don’t see where they sell it. Called Ford and they said it was $225. I don’t think he was looking at the right part. Either way going back to it being for a 18 year old that’s his entire week’s paycheck. Not to mention the cost of the rebuild kit, and what he already paid for the solenoids and fluid. I’m trying to keep the cost under $500 to help him, which I’m gonna loan him for the parts. Any idea where I can get the Manual position lever from rather quickly. My wife and I take turns getting him to and from work, so I’m looking to get his car back up and running sooner rather than later.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

I would try WIT or Bishop's. Links are in the description. Or I found it here. www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-lever-and-bracket-transm-control_ys4z-7e160-aa.html

[@kingsl2000]

I tried taking a screenshot of the part but doesn’t look like I can add it. But in this video at the 1:03:20 mark it’s the L shaped rod you put in the valve body.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

It won't let you add it here but you can go to my Instagram and send it.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

That is the manual valve. But I don't think you will find it without buying a valve body.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Did a search, did not find one separately.

[@kirk1156]

I have a general rebuilding question. When you install new clutch packs how often is the stack height / clearance within tolerance? Ive noticed with my rebuild kit, im having to mix old metal and new clutch to get proper clearance. i even sanded down the snap ring on one. is that something you normally go through? Also, Is it any problem to reuse an old clutch ring with some new ones? my kit is missing one ring and i really want to reuse an old one so i can get it done. I wasnt sure where to order parts from, i found my kit on global transmissions. they use raybestos for the clutch packs, i have no idea if they are a good brand or not. thanks

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Raybestos is the supplier for most OEM's. Never dealt with Global Transmission's so I cannot comment on them. We use WIT or Transtar for most. Fatsco for antiques. You can probably reuse the sealing ring with no problems. Foward and reverse have 2 different steel thicknesses and different snap rings. The rest are controlled by snap rings.

[@kirk1156]

​@@CurmudgeonTransmission ok thanks. sorry im not that experienced with transmissions and don't know the proper terminology. What do you mean by sealing ring? Do you generally always replace all the steel plates and friction plates?

[@kirk1156]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission i didnt realize i shouldve gotten some different thickness snap rings. I was assuming a rebuild kit would be an exact replacement for the old clutch packs without needing to alter anything

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

I was assuming when you said you needed to reuse a ring you were talking about the plastic sealing rings on the pump and end cover. I usually replace all the clutches. Steels if needed. Usually the new clutches will come out correct, sometimes not and that is when you will need to readjust. Hard to know which piece you will need until you can measure the clearance. The one that usually always comes out wrong is the band. The factory uses several different length bolts for the anchor. Superior makes an adjustable pin for it and that is what I use now. superiortransmission.com/product/superior-k0121/

[@irwinjimenez]

Question. I just had my 4F27E rebuilt by a local shop for $3k. 1yr & 22k miles later, after the warranty ended, I'm getting a code P0971, an Solenoid A is getting stuck. I'm thinking of upgrading to the TransGo performan upgrade kits. How hard are they to install, being a basic home-garage mechanic?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Pretty easy to do. What scan tool did you use to get the codes? What is the year, make and model you are working on? Do you know if when they did the rebuild if they sleeved the servo bore of the case?

[@irwinjimenez]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission AutoZone pulled the code. Not really sure of what shop did. They did show me the clutch packs, which were in pretty bad shape. I have a 2012 Ford Transit Connect mini work van (1st Gen w/2nd facelift)

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

P0971 does not show in the listing of codes for that year. Does show to be that for other vehicles. May need to have it scanned somewhere else? What symptoms are you having?

[@orlandoeliasgamezamesty]

Friend, is the 2010 Ford Focus transmission compatible with the 2010 Transit Connect transmission?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Probably not. There is a tag on top of the transmission above the differential. There will be numbers at the top. Something like. PVAA 1SP4-ZA. That first letter after the dash, in this case Z. Needs to be the same. If it is not, it fits a different engine and has a different ratio.

[@jsavoy1]

I have a 2007 Mazda 3. No A.T. lights or check engine light. But will not shift into reverse when cold. After it warms up. Everything is fine. Tried changing oil and filter. Still same problem. Any clue?Thanks

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Need to watch data on a scanner to help with this. Could be a bunch of things. Valves sticking in the valve body, speed sensors, neutral switch not reading properly, seals not sealing properly in the drum. Too much to guess at.

[@jsavoy1]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission okay thanks. Going to start with pressure testing and go from there. Thanks for responding.

[@gengartravels]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission hi, you mentioned a lot of things to look at, but how many percent you think this kind of problem will lead to rebuild?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

@@gengartravels It's a toss up without more information. Could be electrical, could be mechanical.

[@tonyz3812]

I did a basic rebuild on one. Clutches, seals etc. The problem now is it slams into gear when shifted from P to D and sometimes P to R. Other than that it operates fine. The motor and trans mounts are new. Fluid level is good. Do you have any ideas what I should look at? I'm thinking A&B solenoids.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

A & B solenoids are ok if it is shifting fine. Any codes in the system? Even if the light is not on does not mean there are no codes. If there are not any codes, you will need to do a line pressure check to see what it is running at idle and stall. Double check your connector. Make sure it is clean and re-plug it in. Clear the codes even if it says there are not any.

[@j.davidtaylor2565]

What you're describing sounds like the idle is high when you start up the car before you shift. On my Mazda 6 with this transmission, the idle starts out high until it has warmed up for about a minute or so. Mine slams from 1st to 2nd as well if the transmission is cold. After it's warmed up, it shifts fine. Mine is original, though. I have changed the fluid (which was really bad when I got it at 150,000 miles) but no rebuild. Yet.

[@tonyz3812]

Update, line pressures were through the roof. Found a balloned/ruptured gasket in the valve body. Working good now. Thanks for the help.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Glad you got it figured out.

[@jefferygordon243]

If I changed the band out and haven't touched the bolt, am I able to just continue using the original servo band bolt that's already in place or is new bolt mandatory?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Probably not. They are usually wrong. Your best option is an adjustable one from Superior. superiortransmission.com/product/superior-k0121/

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Set it about a turn and a half. Make sure the drum turns by hand afterwards. If not give it a little more. No more than 2 turns.

[@Devo1987]

How hard is it to rebuild at home a 4F27E on a 2006 mazda 3s automatic with a rebuild kit from online ? ive done timing chains / lifters / valve stems / transmission valve bodies scale 1 thru 10 10 being hardest ?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

The case wears bad in the servo bore on these so as far as that goes a 10. If you have the reamer to fix it, a 2 as long as you have a spring compressor to take the drums apart.

[@kirk1156]

what is the flat shim like tool you use here for getting the piston installed? 8:51 is that bought or custom made?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

It is a Snap-On drawer lock tool. When the tool guy comes by I will try and remember to get the part number.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Well he didn't want to look it up for me. Couple places on Ebay selling them. This is the genuine one. www.ebay.com/itm/266301964934?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1F7YvDTBlSLuEBtj85UkIJg40&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=266301964934&targetid=45809 This si a knock off. I know nothing about it other than it was one the site. www.ebay.com/itm/195910736009?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5338590836&toolid=10044&customid=e52672a3949d1fab72751749bf800212

[@kirk1156]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission haha thats awesome thanks.

[@ehasaranga]

I have mazda familia 2001, it's shifting 1st 2nd reving high, in some case it jerks. Others are smooth shifting. When i go very light on the throttle it smooths out. Or i have rev higher to get it smooth. Any idea what this could be?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

What codes are stored in the computer? Just because the light is not on does not mean there are no codes.

[@ehasaranga]

​@@CurmudgeonTransmission i didnt check for codes, ill have a look by tomorrow. another thing is when im on "OD Off" On, i dont feel the revving or the hard shift.

[@ehasaranga]

@@CurmudgeonTransmissiondid a scan but there was no code related transmission

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Were there engine codes? If so what are they.

[@ehasaranga]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission there was none,

[@maniobrandoencortoyardgoat351]

Hello , I have a 2014 ford transit connect and it seems that on 3rd gear. It revs and then shifts only when it’s cold any suggestions? Thanks

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

It revs and shifts cold and then works properly warm or won't shift warm? Any codes?

[@maniobrandoencortoyardgoat351]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission yes it revs and shifts no codes

[@maniobrandoencortoyardgoat351]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission once it’s warmed up it shift’s perfect

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Two things. Are you sure you have a 4F27E, should be a 6F35. 2013 was the last year for4F27E. Either way you are looking at a valve body and/or solenoid problem, more than likely. If it is a 6F35 you need to buy both halves of the valve body and it will need to be reprogrammed. Personally, I would get new from Ford. Before replacing that I would clean all battery terminals and ground connections. Clean the MAF sensor also. Reset the adaptives and relearn the shifts.

[@maniobrandoencortoyardgoat351]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission yes it’s a rebuild 6f35 also got it programmed by dealer I’m going to check battery and clean the sensor

[@sig7707]

Where is your shop located? I have a 2007 Focus and need trans rebuilt.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

I do not own a shop. Go here to find one. www.atra.com/ShopFinder

[@davejenkins2279]

For a 2006 Focus (4F27E), transmission has a distinct and very quick rattle on the 2-3 upshift only. Noisier when warmed up. Any idea what this might be? Transmission shop wants to rebuild, I am just wondering if this is might be a typical noise with a simple fix? Solenoid, valve body, band maybe? Anyone heard this before?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Not something common. Noises and vibrations are the hardest things to diagnose even when you are experiencing them in person. Maybe someone else has experienced it.

[@davejenkins2279]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks so much for the reply.

[@jamescrockett5938]

2010 2.0 mazda 3 same issues maybe torque converter rattling. Idk.just a pain in the butt.

[@jamescrockett5938]

Any idea's?

[@emanuelpaverini6147]

Hello, I have a question, is the automatic transmission of the focus mk2 the same as that of the focus mk1?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

There is a tag on the transmission. The first letter of the last 2 letters is the ratio. If your bellhousing and that letter are the same it will work. B is European and 4.15 ratio for the Sigma engine, C is 3.69 and for the 2.0 SPI engine, D is 3.90 and for the 2.0 Z-Tec engine.

[@jerimylafoy5108]

My 2001 focus has no 2nd or 4th gear. Tried the solenoids, but no dice.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Band is more than likely burnt because the case is worn out in the servo bore.

[@erinburke9711]

54:48 What's the deal with the shims? How do you determine the thickness needed?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

There are special tools for it. If you did not change the diff. or the transfer gear then it should be right.

[@erinburke9711]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission I see the tools are very expensive and the shims are discontinued anyway. If you had a bad differential would you bother trying to replace it, would you reuse the existing shim or just get a different used tranny as a starting point? I think my diff bearings are worn out but the rest of the trans has no issues.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

I have only had a couple with bad diff bearings. Both times I was able to use the shims it came with and it worked out correctly. Bearings are usually held to high tolerances, if using a quality bearing, so they are usually the same size. Turning torque is 5.3-7.9 in. lbs.

[@erinburke9711]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Awesome. Thank you so much. Ford still sells the bearings so maybe it'll work out just fine w/ the existing shim.

[@CDX825]

What fluid do you recommend for these transmissions?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Mercon V

[@CDX825]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Reason I asked is because the newer ones spec mercon LV. Have wondered if it was only done for fuel economy or did something actually change?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

I don't recall this unit ever using LV fluid. But usually when they change fluid the clutches and bands are a different material.

[@jaimeleon7595]

Saludos he tratado de reparar mi transmision de mazda protege...ahora no se que pasa las llantas mecanicanente no giran hacia atras..solo hacia el frente...que puede haber mal?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

When you put it in reverse do the wheels turn forward? If they do I would look at the manual valve. If not unplug the transmission. If you have reverse, you have an electrical problem. Solenoid, neutral switch or computer. If not there is a few different things to look at. Ring gear on the planet not holding. Problem in the reverse drum, rear cover or valve body

[@jefferygordon243]

At 5:25 how did you get that snap ring installed?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

adaptacase.com/press.html

[@jefferygordon243]

​@@CurmudgeonTransmissionthanks!

[@thefumy]

hi, what atf you use? thaks

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

We use a full synthetic. The boss just changed companies so I am not sure who's it is. Sometimes it will not work with a particular transmission and we'll buy what is needed for that one. But this particular one, the full synthetic will work.

[@Born2be76]

Very good job I wish I could pay you to walk me through one of those. But I feel confident I can do it after watching your video. I have a 2007 ford fusion automatic transmission like this. Car is straining to move forward and back.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Thank you. Aside from needing to bore the case these are one of the easiest to rebuild. Posted a disassembly video yesterday.

[@Born2be76]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission You mean bore the servo ? If so I know how to do that. I would pay you to watch and instruct me.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

@@Born2be76 Watch the rebuild video from Oct. 29 2020 and it shows the tool and I bore one out.

[@Born2be76]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Yes I'm going to buy a kit not sure exactly what all I'll need. I changed the engine myself this will be the first transmission I've ever rebuilt.

[@Born2be76]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Wow that servo bore kit is $370 !

[@JuanPablo-wk8jv]

That transmission is sh1t jaja 😔 2 to 3 gear

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Check your band travel probably wrong. set it at about a turn and a half. superiortransmission.com/product/superior-k0121/