4G63 HEAD GASKET- TIMING BELT- WATER PUMP- BALANCE SHAFT BELT REPLACEMENT! (How-To)

hi everyone! in this episode im replacing my head gasket, timing belt, balance shaft belts, water pump and all of the components on the GSX! it was a long couple days of work but its all back together and working as it should. below are some helpful video links and links to all of the parts that I used during this video! hope this helps you with your project!!!
great walk through video for this job here : • 4G63 Head Removal Proc...
gates timing belt/water pump kit i used here :www.extremepsi.com/store/Gate...
timing tool kit here : www.extremepsi.com/store/Extr...
felpro head gasket here : www.autozone.com/gaskets/head...
ARP L-19 head bolt kit here:www.extremepsi.com/store/ARP-...
dont forget to give us a follow on instagram @TodaysProjectGuide!!!!

[@TPGDSM]

So everything went really smooth with this one BUT noticed a squeal coming from my belts a couple weeks later and found I'd somehow mounted my outer water pump pulley backwards (which runs alternator) so be sure you don't do what I did! Usually I'm careful with removal and reinstallment but it's a quick fix!😬😅. Thanks for watching! 👍

[@garyreyes6417]

I’m glad you make videos! I was in need and your video helped me so much

[@TPGDSM]

Thanks for watching 🔧👍

[@dsmjaime]

Nice vid. I wasn’t looking for a tutorial. I was Just mainly looking for some motivation haha!

[@TPGDSM]

Yeah it's not to terrible of a job. Just lots of parts to get out of the way

[@Jackvue5]

do you always have to machine the cylinder head if a head gasket has gone bad? or is it only if the surfaces are damaged?

[@TPGDSM]

You have to check the cylinder head with a machinist straight edge or a known straight edge across the top of the bores, then while the straight edge is laying across it, Try to fit a feeler gauge under it. If you can fit your feeler gauge under the straight edge than the block is in need of decking. Same test for the cylinder head. Small amounts of flex can be ok BUT that's always at your own discretion and risk. I've personally had cylinder heads show very small signs of outer end warpage (0.003 +/- 0.001) and with the arp head studs and Cometic gasket I never had any issues. If you have more that 3 thousandths warpage id recommend machine work.

[@workingmansrestorations7071]

I have to go one step further... my tensioner let loose on startup according to old owner... I looked at pistons and the valves hit... so I am pulling mine to go through head

[@TPGDSM]

That just happened to a buddy of mine. He got another head from miller import for $250 shipped. I talked to miller and they said they had a few more good heads there if you need em

[@workingmansrestorations7071]

@Today's Project Guide that may be the way to go... they all machined and Checked out?

[@TPGDSM]

@@workingmansrestorations7071 they’re just parted out from other cars. I usually take all my heads to a machinist to have em checked. My guess is if you need valves,guides, springs and retainers it may be more cost effective to get a good used one and go from there. Their good guys at miller. Hope ya get it back on the road soon

[@workingmansrestorations7071]

@Today's Project Guide its taking so much to just get car into garage. I have to take my 57 chevy to a storage unit so I can get car into garage

[@TPGDSM]

@@workingmansrestorations7071 shoot that’s still better than having no garage like me😂

[@DSM96]

😎👍😀👍

[@diamanteracer]

awesome man good work. Do you happen to have a video on CV Seals ? I need to do this.

[@TPGDSM]

CV axle rebuilding?

[@diamanteracer]

@@TPGDSM thanks for taking to time to respond to a fan as always. No I am leaking from the transmission where the axle goes. So I want to replace the seal between the axle and the transmission. Front Drivers side right above the transfer case

[@TPGDSM]

@@diamanteracer hey I always do my best to try to reply whenever I can my friend! If I were you I would get a seal puller order part number MD719710, carefully remove the old seal after the axle is pulled out and clean and replace for the new seal which you can drive on with a socket that fits that seals outer diameter. Then replace any lost transmission fluid and reassemble your axle 👍

[@ZKrow382]

13:20, was the white corrosion in the coil pack?

[@TPGDSM]

You know.. honestly I never figured out why one was silver and the rest were bronze?🤔 all I know is it never effected spark or firing or anything. Still weird to see

[@ifixthingsalsobreakthem5835]

Just wondering is it normal for oil pressure to be that low ?

[@TPGDSM]

At idle on stock gauge it looks low. With an aftermarket oil pressure gauge it’s within spec. Once it gets some rpm it’s immediately up around halfway up the stocker

[@marvingiron9026]

Just did my timing belt/waterpump on my GST. Put back together correct but when I started the car it started ticking and stalled out. Try again it will spark like it wanted it to start but won’t. Any idea or advice that can be given to help my problem would be greatly appreciated! Am retearing down everything by today to see what I did wrong

[@TPGDSM]

Did you happen to install your crank position ring backwards? That will cause similar issues. Or if you were off on your timing belt. I'd pull the main fuel relay fuse to the fuel pump before attempting to start next time and build some oil pressure cranking and verify no weird noises. Keep us updated on what you find! 👍🔧

[@marvingiron9026]

Today's Project Guide I actually didn’t remove the crank. Found a step by step article details on the timing belt. It said you could wiggle the balance shaft belt off so I did manage to get it off and install the belt. I did crank it to build pressure but may have done something wrong. Will definitely take your advice man!

[@TPGDSM]

@@marvingiron9026 did you happen to take out your cam angle sensor at all?

[@marvingiron9026]

Today's Project Guide I did I just unbolted it but I bolt it back in place

[@marvingiron9026]

I actually didn’t sorry I meant I unbolt the crank angle sensor

[@cjdavis247]

Hey quick question why did you go with the l19's over the standard arp headstud kit? Just for peace of mind?

[@TPGDSM]

I've read that their regular arps are fine, the l19's are a bit bigger/stronger so figured I'd go big once and leave it at that. Peace of mind for sure👍 maybe next time I go inside it I'll be adding some better short block parts and need em. Who knows 😂

[@cjdavis247]

@@TPGDSM ahh ok! makes sense. I have a sneaking suspicion a headgasket job is coming down the pipeline so ive been looking at parts and wasnt sure whether to go for the l19s or not when I saw them.

[@TPGDSM]

@@cjdavis247 yeah it's not the worst job on our cars. A few tips I would give you are pick up new valve seals. Once it's off it's way easier to re do the seals if the head hasn't been touched in awhile, they'll need it. Ditch the bracket under the intake manifold (intake manifold "stay" bracket) it does nothing and it's a pita to get to. Swap the water pump and timing goodies while its all out. Took me a day and a half. Weekend job for sure.

[@cjdavis247]

@@TPGDSM yeah I was gonna do valve stems, a timing job and water pump while I was at it. I was probably gonna do the 3g lifters as well. My belt looked fine but I’d rather be safe than sorry. My buddy was talking about going mls head gasket but it sounds like unless you deck the block and head you’re not gonna get a good seal at least from what I was reading on the forum. Plus it sounds like a lot of people have had success with the felpro gaskets and headstuds.

[@TPGDSM]

@@cjdavis247 100% true. Mls like polished surfaces to seal. Guys run 40psi reliably with felpros and studs. Definitely nice to have piece of mind on your own timing job too 👌👌

[@Tr1pMind]

I really dont get why they flipped sides for the timing/cooling from the 2g to the 3g. just silly

[@TPGDSM]

Same with the evo 8 to evo 9. 4g63 to 4b11..