DC-INSTALLATIONS MADE EASY. Unique, Problem-Solving Solution. Egon DC-Hub

[@overland-workshop]

I shall not respond to questions posted on KZbin. Please go to www.egon.com.au for answers.

[@sgee8353]

The comments section is exactly for answering questions and discussing a video content.

[@joels2517]

@@sgee8353 No it's not the question section its the comment section made for peoples comments ie opinions

[@overland-workshop]

If you have serious questions then www.egon.com.au/ has a message system. Then we can focus on the genuine questions, because the Keyboard warriors won't take the trouble to do that.

[@CommanderZarkon]

@@overland-workshop Good point. Even if there are genuine doubts, there are too many who are ready to complain and knock things down. This product is beyond my reach at the moment, but that doesn't mean it is useless or "hype"; it just means I can't afford it right now. Sometimes people don't realize the relationship between time and money. When looking at the price, perhaps we should also consider the cost of A. Paying someone to do the job. B. Doing it ourselves and having a fire burn down our rig. Anyway Mr. White, I think it's great that you are developing better devices for us all!

[@BubblesTheCat1]

@@overland-workshop Please see my comment about people stealing your idea and copying it. Patent it ASAP.

[@RUM-PIG]

Phenomenal!! I’ve literally spent the last 2 years self learning about how to set up my 12V system in my 4x4 by myself. I’m dyslexic and it’s been such a steep learning curve for me. This product has taken such a load off my mind. Thank you very much 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽

[@matymaty7477]

👍 My electrician brother made me exactly the same system in my Land Rover Defender 300 Tdi. The whole car. IT WORKS AND LOOKS GREAT.

[@jowly1462]

I get it, I get the point! It's Overlanding's Peter Brock Polarizer

[@MrLoridin]

That is gold lmao! Best comment...

[@sgee8353]

"Aussie Dream Fusebox" gives a it a bit of lineage and perspective I think.

[@firetofork]

Using this in my build was insanely good. I am not great at wiring and this made me feel like a pro. The conductivity and solid connections are so far beyond anything else on the market. I couldn’t believe how little voltage drop there is. It also makes fault finding a dream. Well done guys

[@obxjeepguy]

And you had help from Heiner. A win-win!

[@firetofork]

@@christurner68 Compared to my old setups - measuring from the battery to my fridge and compressor. Bloody hell, who crapped in your cornflakes?

[@overland-workshop]

Harry. Any electrical posts tend to bring out the know-it-all keyboard warriors by the thousand. They just love to tear one's ideas down. Keep your distance. I do.

[@firetofork]

@@overland-workshop Very good call mate. This comments section is one of the most toxic I have seen in quite a while.

[@MrLoridin]

@@firetofork Harry it might help if ASWP doesn't make bold claims that simply are not true. It's not the only product like it in the world, and in many ways if used the way Andrew says it's downright dangerous. Go ask ANY qualified electrician or auto sparky if it's safe NOT to fuse at the power source and see what kind of answer you get... also ask them if it's okay to have a bare wire going into a terminal block. It also wouldn't save someone 7 hours in labour, that's nonsense.

[@steveswiggers1578]

This is a product born out of someone who has lots of overland/car building experience in cooperation with a (German) electrical engineer. It comes from his own need to have a rather simple, bush proof solution instead of reinventing the wheel every single time/build again. For some weeks now I’m trying to figure out a 12v system myself and it’s not that easy to see the forest for the trees. This product simplifies and centralise a lot in my opinion. So thanks Andrew. But in a way I also understand some of the critiques and it would help Andrew to do a bit more than saying one is “missing the point” (even though you prefer to do only on the Egon site). I'm afraid “the point” is not clear enough. I truly love your style of telling a story. It's the perfect counterweight in this tik-tok era. But this time, for a product reveal, it's not enough. Of course some people will never see that it's more than a fancy fuse box but also a circuit board that makes smart connections between different parts as well. So can you please explain shortly: - why no relays - how to deal with switches for the devices one connects to your hub. Is the critique of creating longer cables due to this centralised system true? Maybe a simple wire diagram may help.

[@k2svpete]

From what he's said at the start of the video, the strength of the unit is the ability to access power for accessories without hacking into the vehicle harness, all the power outputs are fused and faults easily identified and fixed. You still need to work out use of relays and switching but common failure point of poor wiring to and from power and not having fuses is addressed.

[@mmdotcom_Photography]

brilliant -- I had that (very vague) idea about doing a 12V supply in boats (or, as a DC secondary system, even in a house) for some time, but never got around to trying it. now this piece of kit is a real game-changer for anyone doing cars, off-grid systems, or anything of the things above. You guys are great!

[@The_ElunduExpeditionProject]

Great product for simplifying electrical installations in vehicles of any kind. As an electrician myself I would use bootlace ferrules on the ends of all wires going into the terminals of the EGON. It just rounds off the installation nicely and professionally.

[@andersonjack95]

Andrew I'm a huge fan of the channel, long time viewer first time commentor. I agree with the mind set of running all your cable to a central location but when it comes to terminating these wires I can't justifiy spending $800 to save an hour of crimping soldering and heat shrinking. I have a $30 fuse board from Jaycar with LEDs to tell me when a fuse blows, after watching your video I struggle to see the differance between my fuse box and your product? I would be interested in seeing a more indepth video that can better explain where the value has been added.

[@SirLuisBarrera]

Have to agree mate, clever idea but not worth $800. I understand the need for the return (R&D) but I also struggle to see the value for such a high price tag.

[@tjmarx]

I would suggest they aren't targetting at home DIY installers with this distribution board. He'll certainly sell one to you. But as much as Andrew is going on about being "foolproof" I would suggest they're actually targetting the trade market, particularly RV/trailer builders. The kinds of people who are doing moderately complex DC wirings over and over all day. The big selling point to them is productivity and end-user expandability. Buy* this distribution board, save 3-7 hours on wiring and be able to move on to the next unit/customer. That takes it from 1-5 installs per day to 5-15 on builds that are already going to cost 40,50,60K to the end-user. I think that's what this is about.

[@ookeekthelibrarian]

Andrew I've been in 4 Toyota's that have caught fire, all of them had used cheap wiring components. The mining company I worked for never like to spend money on vehicles. This type of high quality product can save people for injuries and having to walk 100km back to the camp, well done.

[@bossybill7437]

When Andrew first touted this product, it seemed to me to be nothing but a Glorified Fuse Box... And it still does. I've got a real fuse box next to my aux battery and I'd LIKE an Egon DC Hub but, mate, $700 !!! Really? What is its Basic Function? REALLY... What's it do? Apart from 'cosmetics' like, nice LED lights when a fuse blows, right size connectors, cable tie tie-downs, ... What's it do? Is there any on-board logic? Not as far as I've heard. Are there any meters, like, to see how much you've used or drawing at a glance? Nope, nothing to be seen. It seems to me it's biggest selling point is that it saves Auto Electricians hours upon hours of work. But, hey, maybe they should try using a Fuse Box (they actually double as a Distribution Point). Am I missing something? BTW: I can see why the SS holder is 'only' $150... It hasn't even a hinged lid.

[@cyclemoto8744]

I too was shocked at the cost when it was first released but then I realised that I am not within the target market. Assuming you too understand DC systems and are able to build your own system, the cost of this device is not worth it. However, many people either lack the knowledge or a not comfortable working on DC systems. As an example, I know guys who are very mechanical and have no issues with all sorts of DIY work, but electrical systems just aren't their thing. Then on the other hand, think about all the people who tinker on their touring rig but aren't mechanical at all and can only perform basic DIY work, and finally the rest of the people with less skills. This device provides those people with a means of installing their own system. I've built various DC systems for the 4wds I've owned, and the cost of cabling and lugs alone, adds up very quickly. Of course, this device won't remove the cost of cabling but it will help reduce mistakes thus decreasing the cost of the ancillary parts. It always amazes me how much I spend on lugs by the end of a build....Do you perform your own oil changes on your car? If so, does that mean that the idea of someone paying a mechanic to perform the service is preposterous? Of course not, the service fits the needs for a particular person just as this product will fit the needs of some. Have you heard of the Redarc Redvision system? If you want to talk about an absurdly expensive product which is basically a touchscreen operated power switch , lets talk about the Redvision. Now that is ludicrous! Cheers

[@nabob14]

The other issue is that your running a lot more wire to one central point where it can be separated into zones with individual zone fuse boxes, this makes it even simpler... if you have a wiring issue, with the central box you will have a lot more wire length to check... a zoned system is far more user efficient than a central zone... this is why vehicles have multiple fuse boxes...

[@cyclemoto8744]

@@nabob14 so true. pros and cons with everything.

[@billroach2393]

@@nabob14 exactly!! I have 4 separate electrical "hubs" on my Chevy... I didn't even know to call them "hubs"...but after seeing this gadget I now know what it is I've been building. ASPW doesn't actually "build" anything...he just pays other people to "build" his stuff for him.

[@aussiecampingbloke55]

Do you wire your BCDC into your fusebox then do you?

[@explor360]

Andrew, I was extremely impressed with the work Heiner did on your Dream Tourer and glad he’s working with you on this product. I went to the website and have a few comments. 1. You don’t list or comment on how many (and what kind of ) input and output can be used in this hub. It looks like it could handle all the wiring that you installed in your Dream Tourer which leads me to... 2. Maybe also make a “mini version” of this. The size of this unit is probably too large for my build (I’m working on my Gladiator build now) . I think most people, like me, would need connections for the following...second battery, DCDC controller, solar, water pump, fridge, lights and maybe one or two extra items. It seems you have way more capabilities than that with this product. 3. I know you said that the product is currently only available in Australia but when you roll this out please have a currency converter on your website. The Aussie dollars are much higher than US dollars. Best of lick to you and your team!

[@meshallrazoog]

I live in the middle east and I was dreaming of something exactly like this, this idea is huge I need one when I start my overland project

[@Rays4Days]

Nice colab w Heiner - he's a wizard. Can't wait to see the water hub.

[@Berserkeroffroad]

Andrew, well done continuing your entrepreneurial adventure, and congratulations on your product launch.

[@FunCreativeConstructions]

awesome product!! I did a simple dc set up, dcdc charger, 1x aux battery, 1 x fuse box and 2x cabling with anderson plug for my fridge in the ute. It prob cost around $3-400 for bits and pieces (fuse box, lugs etc) def see a benefit of this product. Well done!!

[@Wetpaintadventures]

Love your enthusiasm Andrew, Bravo, forget the knockers and keep being you mate.

[@arconcritter]

I’m in the early stages of planning the building of my 110 into an overlanding vehicle. This product and the future water hub will absolutely be going into my rig. When you referred to the Egon in a video last year I was looking to forward to seeing the final product so I’m extremely happy to see you launching it now. Congratulations to you both and I wish you much commercial success 👍🏻🙂

[@gaj5701]

I'm building a 110 at the minute & so far I've used a 6 block negative bus bar fuse box in with the main fuse block for main electrics extras (spotties etc.) & a 12 block for the auxiliary electrics high on a hesch style cabinet in the back. If you manage to squeeze your aux battery in the seat box (can be done, my knuckles can testify to that) I'd recommend doing this kind of thing to keep it even simpler rather than trying to find somewhere to mount this in a non leaky part of the vehicle & running 2g wiring all over the place 👍

[@bez2992]

I enjoy your work Andrew, however I think this product is a bit over hyped and you are making it sound far to simple to install. I fail to see how this simplifies things as much as you say. This product does not take the expertise out of installing a dc electrical system at all. it does not let someone who has "not done any wiring at all" suddenly be able to perform the job, it sort of takes care of one aspect which is crimping/heat shrink (the tip of the iceberg as far as wiring goes) and unless you are releasing more products, crimping and heat shrink will still be required for the main fuses that supply the unit and also for switches on the outputs and other things such as Anderson plugs (mentioned in the video for solar) someone who purchases this does not suddenly know how to run/secure wires correctly, wire switches correctly, crimp/solder a Anderson plug, mount various parts of the system correctly (the list goes on) This really is just a fancy fuse box/junction point. unless I'm missing something here? which is what you keep telling people but won't tell them why. I hope you will enlighten me as to what point I am missing here? I believe this will definitely save time, and possibly money in a workshop environment (would have to be a rather large fit-out) however I think the money side is questionable, especially at $840! As for someone doing this themselves I think it's only going to cost them money. Overall I think this would be a great product at a much lower price, however it think the description of this product is misleading people to think that having this product will save money and makes 12v wiring easy. It simply doesn't.

[@billroach2393]

Bez, I agree and when I've commented on it in a similar way to what you have, ASPW has retorted that I must never have done any 12 volt wiring set-ups. Well, let's see, I'll be 66 in a month's time and I've been fiddling with 12 volts since I was about 12 years old.....firstly in model train environment and then on motor bikes, cars and finally when I bought my first 4x4 in 1990. I've got a fair idea of what foibles await the uninitiated.....because I've made several stuff-ups along the way..... Those stuff-ups have taught me many things and one of them is to recognise this "hub" for exactly what it is: a glorified fuse box with multiple power IN and OUT sources. That's great! But you still have to wire-up relays and switches, so more wiring that might be going to completely different places to where the "hub" is located. For example, I have a lot of my wiring in the back of the large canopy of my Chevy Silverado. Logically therefore, it would be the ideal place to place my "hub". Some of the things that I would need to power-up through that "hub" are UHF, my Kleinn Demon 730 air horns, Fyrlyt Nemesis spotties, roof LED bar, rear LED bar, side LED bars, front corner LED lights, isolator for the alarm on the canopy gull-wing doors (so I can stop the alarm in the cab when somebody is getting stuff out of the canopy when I'm stopped say dropping off somebody at the airport), my back-up Kennedy fuel lift pump, air compressor, dashcam, TPMS, Airbag Man digital gauge, 2nd reverse camera...etc etc. A lot of those accessories are nowhere near the rear of the truck, so it makes no sense to have to run cabling to and from the hub for, say, the UHF radio. I think the type of DIYer who is likely to not even blink an eye at the price of this is someone like ASPW himself who has either plenty of dough or has sponsors that supply a lot of his gear. Just on that last point, I see he is asking over $200K for the dual cab dream tourer. I am left wondering how much that vehicle actually cost him to "build" (sorry, I should say..."to have built"...unlike you and me, he doesn't really "BUILD" 4 wheel drives....he gets other people to do all/most of the work...and anybody with deep pockets or good sponsors can do that). For example, he made no secret of the fact that Amptron gave him his lithium batteries and Hella gave him an open cheque book for whatever he wanted out of their catalogue. I wonder how they feel about him profiteering off their sponsorship dollar?

[@gaj5701]

It's basically the result of R&D done by 2 people with tunnel vision pretending they're design engineers, who can't see it actually doesn't achieve anything. Moreover it looks like a 10 year olds electronics project in a shoddy box. I'll qualify all that by saying I'm an automotive design engineer, so hopefully I can say all that without any danger of being proven incorrect or being accused of missing the point 🤓

[@heinzweber7642]

@@gaj5701 german Dipl.phys.Ing., 28 years at Bosch Automotive, 57 years old, early retiered, since 2 years around with 4X4 motorhome ... YOU ARE RIGHT Sir!

[@Anderzander]

You’re right. I think he’s really got this wrong. He sort of says that it simplifies wiring, through not having to use crimps and being told what size wires to use, to the point that anyone can do it ... but whoever installs it will still have to crimp and wire in the switches and the equipment that will connect to it ?

[@gaj5701]

@@heinzweber7642 Always welcome to have another qualified voice on board 👨‍🎓Not that it matters in today's world where facts are basically whatever the person with the loudest voice tells you 🙄

[@patdevlinmusic]

Hey Andrew, I've seen the Waterhub on Egon's page. Keen to hear your speak on that too. Looks like a handy product.

[@overland-workshop]

We are developing Water-Hub 2.0, improving it in many ways, including making it easier to instal. And then we will be putting it up for sale. When we do, I'll do a video on it.

[@patdevlinmusic]

@@overland-workshop looking forward to it. Cheers

[@defendermodsandtravels]

Let me join the list of people who doesn't get it. All I see is a fancy fuse box / JB sold at a very fancy price. There are many similar products available, maybe not identical but doing basically the same job. The best products come from the industrial and marine sectors in my experience. I love marine products because they are very robust with excellent environment protection (the IP rating) and very corrosion resistant. I'd also support the comments made by others that bringing all the cable to a central location will increase cable lengths, and a zoned system with multiple distribution points offers advantages in this regard.

[@overland-workshop]

This does nothing new, except for save time and money and ease fault finding. And it does this by having multiple fuse types in one place and is wired to cater for multiple chargers and multiple inputs and outputs IN ONE PLACE. And, the quality of the connections reduces voltage drops. The alternative is the traditional way, in having fuse boxes and in-line fuses strewn around the build and the inherent voltage drops and difficulties in fault tracing.

[@defendermodsandtravels]

@@overland-workshop My vehicle's electrcal system is probably fairly typical. Split into 3 areas, namely engine bay, battery box and rear of vehicle. The first comprises relays and fuse boxes (×2 for main and auxiliary systems). The second has a four way fuse box with strip type midi fuses and a low voltage cut out. The third is a distribution centre with inverter, 6x fused circuits and DIN + cigarette lighter outlets. There's also a single relay which is probably redundant now that I have low current LED worklights. Of these the Egon might help with the rear of vehicle wiring centre which could definitely be improved because it has evolved over the years. I will have an honest look to see if it could help and maybe even make a video if the findings are interesting. However the competition is tough because there's a fantastic marine supplier on my doorstep selling top quality equipment. Anyhow this video has inspired me to revisit my own vehicle which is good.

[@wolfstream1]

I love your passion and restless innovative spirit! Very well done Andrew, think of Europe too! I am looking forward for your water hub. Seems very promising! Bravo!

[@johnmummery8480]

OMG Andrew well done, I have just completed major work on my 200 Land cruiser with ARB and expressed my desire for a switchboard, no can do, this is what they should be using, congratulations ✅

[@heathbaker8465]

Lot of hate goin on here, support Aus manufacturing and innovation even if you don't understand it! Well done and looking forward to the water hub guys! 👏

[@BriandeBrouwer]

This is a winner! Would love to get my hand on this. Petty that we don't get this in South Africa

[@overland-workshop]

It's available in every country in the world. Order it directly and they will ship it to you.

[@1000adstar]

Congratulations, cool looking fuse box. I like the clear cover. I think if for off road use, you might need to support and seal the PCB better and it really needs Midi style fuses for any of the high current circuits. DC is very unforgiving with vibration and voltage drop so you don't want any arcing or shorts especially with high fault currents of lithium batteries. Hope you have great success with your product. Cheers

[@richardweerasinghe3296]

This helps with one side of the wiring. But it doesn’t help with the switching side. So I don’t think it really helps much in terms of making it more accessible to users who don’t understand wiring.

[@Anderzander]

Nor does it help with the accessory side ...

[@k2svpete]

No, it doesn't help with the switching but it serves its purpose for providing simple, safe power distribution for accessories without hacking into the vehicle harness. That's the stated purpose and there are far too many nuffies who've lost sight of the purpose of it.

[@Anderzander]

@@k2svpete Hi Peter - How does it offer anything different to hacking the original wiring over any of the other distribution units? Any of the many products (sPOD, VoSwitch, Blue Sea and the many basic Fuse Boxes etc) can all be run as entirely separate circuit direct from the battery.

[@k2svpete]

@@Anderzander through the simplicity of the unit. Making connections, fault finding and correcting is easy. Remember what it's being designed to do and in what applications.

[@Anderzander]

@@k2svpete So there are lots of products that do that ... If it’s about simplicity of connection, putting aside the robustness of screw terminals in high vibration environments, then the same person would need to terminate the switch and accessory side - so I’m not sure it brings that much benefit. If it’s about simple ‘analog’ construction and fault identification - there are many many products that are in / out distribution fuse boxes with LED warning lights - I have been using one for years that costs £20 If it’s about robust then the PCB should really have been supported in the centre too to stop cracking - and to prevent issues with moisture or corrosion it would have been good to coat it. If it’s about not hacking the OEM wiring then that’s a design decision you could apply using many of the products that are already on market.

[@JimYeats]

I like that this a well built device - made very specifically for common aftermarket vehicle DC setups - and not just a generic fuse box, but the price is a little hard to swallow. The fact that the mount/case is not included is also frustrating. Will be interested in following how this goes and if it gets refined and if the price comes down as the process is streamlined. Honestly these products look like the vehicle equivalent of a breaker box and a pex manifold (the water version he mentioned) of a house, so maybe it is time someone did this.

[@DarrylSheather]

As a central hub its an awesome idea. Well done!

[@billyflatt]

I’m building a very similar “DC hub”, only with DC circuit breakers. Incorporates AC as well. Costs 1/3 of the price. But seems to be the same concept (unless I’m missing something in your system). All wires go to one place, no crimping / heat shrink involved. I do really like the idea of how you secure your wires. Simple and effective.

[@terryoleary5424]

Very interesting, I installed a very simple yet powerful enough 12 volt system 6 months ago and it was extremely time consuming. I’m very keen to look into this system.

[@RustyCandyAdventures]

I do not like to knock. But. Vibration. Led,s not glued and connectors The connectors are pin into circuit board. Fail point. Also screws are know to vibration lose. No middle board mount hole. Flexing board. In turn putting pressure on connector pins. No coating. Dust , moisture . Dust and moisture shorts out circuits. I have seen mold growing in connector with corrosion. Great idea. Little improving. Younger life I made printed circuit boards, also thur hole plating. Then testing. Nothing is never possible. I have seen many contractors start crying after a few minutes of testing.

[@AggyGoesOutdoors]

I know ASP is very excited about this but there's one of these sitting on the dashboard of my rally car in front of the passenger seat.. only it covers the relays too, bespoke build yes.. good luck marketing you "new" product.

[@edwardpeters4700]

Interesting piece of kit. Likely a bit too complex for my needs (I've never found need for an inverter). A charge controller with solar inputs, secondary battery, and fuse block have served me well.

[@terry2833]

There seems to be some very negative feedback on this product why cant everyone see what it is and praise Andrew for the development. I recon its a fair price and I just love a central hub system keep up the great work Andrew and your team, I'm sure most of these negative comments are from people who think they know better an not willing to arree with a different approach.

[@craiggillphotography8030]

Looks great. Wish I had that when I did my build. Good quality and simple. Most electrical stuff out there is crap and will let you down one day when u need it.

[@offtraxcampers2135]

Mmmm I like this a lot!! Well done!!

[@Darkart123]

I really wanted to pull trigger on this but the lack of relay switches means I will wait for version2 if it comes. We have followed you for years and even spoke with you at overland expo west. Good luck and stay safe!

[@overland-workshop]

There are several products on the market with relays and switches. This is not one of them and was never meant to be. Which means, I didn't communicate the point of the DC hub very well. It's the challenge of trying to explain something new.

[@pim1234]

Love your products, I try to make up a way to put them to use in my Jimny

[@Secretcircuits]

Considering that those Phoenix style connectors should really be used with crimped ferrules for maximum durability, I fail to see how this “eliminates crimping”.

[@mountainconstructions]

I to was wondering if "bootlacing" DC cables would be a better connection, or worse? Shame they don't give a Torque spec termination

[@overland-workshop]

Recommended torque settings are supplied with the unit and are on the website.

[@johnflynn556]

I just had a Li battery, inverter, monitoring shunt, fridge connector, DCDC, compressor and lighting utilising an Egon fitted between the back seats of my 200 series and the drawers (by Heiner and his team). It is a VERY neat, compact solution. It definitely was not the cheapest solution but it is simple. Less complexity, more reliability.

[@overland-workshop]

Thanks for that. How much labour time did the unit save you in cash? You may find that it was the cheapest solution. After all, that's an important part of his product.

[@johnflynn556]

@@overland-workshop I didn't get a formal quote without the Egan to directly compare. Prices vary so much with 12v systems based on quality so it would be easy to directly compare. The greatly reduced amount of wiring and the simplicity of the solution was the main selling point for me. You may be able to do a cheaper solution using the cheapest available ebay parts but that wasn't what I wanted. Reliability and quality is what I wanted. Unfortunately, I do not think I can post a picture of the set-up.

[@ewingfox6459]

What makes this different is that it's well designed and ALL ANALOG. I'm not suggesting that it is inherently better than similarly capable digital units, but the idea of a bush-repairable unit makes a ton of sense. I've done (hundreds?) of similarly complicated DC wiring jobs, and this would save me 5-10 hours of work, I charged 100usd an hour (a decade ago) - so it would have been a push for cost, plus be simpler for them to modify. Would I BUY ONE? No, I'll do it the hard way and save the money, but it won't produce a better result. Version 2.0 should include a few switchable relays and a fibre reinforced chassis would be better, non-conductive. Good work, this is a perfect product for anyone who wants it done right the first time!

[@TWX1138]

The lack of switchable circuits perplexes me. It seems like that would be the more important value-add for a potential buyer, since it would make controls for things like lights and intermittent-use appliances easier and safer. Even if a device like an oven had its own control, being able to shut it off and know that it's truly off from a low-current switch panel inside of the vehicle would seemingly be a valuable feature, let alone controls for driving lights, winches, air compressors, and other accessories where running the high-current cables into the driver's compartment is undesirable or where one might want to have more than one point to switch such an accessory from. Attempting to foolproof it with connectors that naturally limit the cable size is a good idea, and designing easy-read fault indicators is also a good idea, but either an improved product with the relays or else a companion product, a relay board that can be placed next to this board and take the outputs from this board and switch them would increase interest dramatically.

[@ewingfox6459]

@@TWX1138 it's also important to remember that this is the first product for this pair, I expect that they'll be offering iterations moving forward. A fiber reinforced poly chassis and a handful of relay supported circuits would be a natural version 2.0

[@TWX1138]

@@ewingfox6459 Yeah, the biggest downer though is the pricetag given the lack of these elements. I get the value of the bus-bar concept along with sizing the connectors and the fault indicators, but it's 700 Australian dollars for just the board. A fairly generic third party automotive fuse and relay holder that admittedly requires point-to-point wiring is around $20. I know, labor is higher when it's not done with artificially depressed wages, and they've done engineering and testing to confirm their load levels, but it still seems disappointingly expensive.

[@ewingfox6459]

@@TWX1138 doing the point-to-point wiring is time-consuming tedious and extremely fault-prone if you're not in the trades and doing this stuff everyday. Considering that many people will spend upwards of $100,000 on building up their tourer, if less than 1% of their build goes to having a absolutely bomb proof DC mains, it isn't really a tragedy. I'm a big point to point guy and do a lot of audio these days now that I'm out of the trades, I enjoy the slow and careful pace and the results are pretty amazing but back in the 90s and early 2000s we were printing piles of circuit boards for all kinds of projects that would have been impossible to package in a point to point format. I have no doubt that he'll sell a pile of these, not every product is for every consumer. I bet a unit with five relay circuits, a poly chassis and a hinged cover, priced at probably $1,100 will fly out the door, especially after most weekend warriors drop a couple hundred bucks on component parts to prove Andrew wrong and end up with a bunch of blown fuses and melted wires :-)

[@k2svpete]

@@ewingfox6459 or a smouldering wreck of a vehicle after it catches fire.

[@PhatToni]

I'm not a fan of wires terminated without crimped lugs for situations where vibrations are common (see military applications for the best practise - always lugs). Also from what I can gather the high current output is fed by the AUX battery side. I always run my compressors from my main battery. I think a symmetrical main/aux setup would give more flexibility. Huge fan of your content and I enjoy how you narrate your own thought process when looking at something from a different point of view. Keep up to excellent content

[@Dan-ny1kx]

Looks good, but not ground breaking or unique. Redarc Redvision has been available for some time, does the same job and adds Bluetooth management and CanBus.

[@AndrewSparkfish]

...and has issues apparently.

[@JamesJeanneret]

@@AndrewSparkfishand costs 4 times the price and 4 times as long to install.

[@sgee8353]

Won't ask a question, because after watching a 24 min video, surely everything is abundantly clear about this "game changer", (not a fuse box). In the video there is a shot of yourself exerting a whole lot of effort crimping/swaging on an electrical eye fixture to a cable. This was to show that the new product eliminates this type of work. But how do the little screws in the connectors on your board clamp cables with any equivliant force/ pressure? I guess this is why some commenters have mentioned midi fuses? Glad you have done a years testing, including market testing of potential consumers - like all the targeted people here who watched and commented on your video. I know, I know, we don't get it.

[@k2svpete]

Given that you've gone off on a tangent with the functions of a crimped terminal, as opposed to a screw connector, also missing the bit about cable ties being used to secure the cables against movement, it's pretty clear you've missed the point.

[@wikkidme755]

@@k2svpete what point? and i think most of us missed it...

[@k2svpete]

@@wikkidme755 you've missed the bit at the very start regarding the targeted applications. Its for medium to complex DC installations to simplify wiring and power distribution without hacking into the vehicle harness. It saves time for wiring to be run and cost for ancillaries in these applications. In these applications, it pays for itself. If you've got a simple system with a charger, fridge, compressor and some camp lights this isn't the product for that setup.

[@sgee8353]

@@k2svpete Mmm the stainless box that you would fix cables against I believe is an optional extra. Seems odd to me that many many comments have been constructive and offering suggestions and feedback, from the very people who may purchase such a product. in this form or some future version. And largely Andy has told all and sundry "you don't get it, it's not for you, it could not be better" and disengaged from the video and viewers. Andy is certainly entitled to behave this way, just a comment.

[@judsssis]

will buy it soon. Have been looking for years for that kind of thing

[@jomero1808]

It looks great, like an Spod with higher capacity. Keep the hard work. I'm a big fan of your videos. Looking forward to see the water temperature controller.

[@kevinpt3]

So you made a fuse box. Would be nice to have some relays

[@Malc664]

That would make it bulky, but you're right, it doesn't cater to the all-important relays. That seems to be an afterthought. This EGON is supposed to make the electrical system easier and relays weren't addressed.

[@gotoylc]

@@Malc664 why would relays need needed? The circuits are well protected by the fuses in this central DC hub. I don’t see any need for additional relays for this hub.

[@Jacob-qz2mo]

@@gotoylc you would need relays for most appliances, unless you have switches that can handle massive current loads.

[@cattymakes]

@@Malc664 it already is bulky given it's a glorified fuse box

[@auladepiano]

100A on a regular fuse holder??? I definitely would prefer a mini ANL fuses for that current. Also, the connectors are not reliable at all for a typical vibration 4x4 truck. Bolt terminal are way better. All cables to the same point? Not always the best solution for every needs. And by the way.... If some contact gets hot.... You may loose all your electrical circuits.... Sorry. I wouldn't buy it. A have a lot of circuitry. 24v and 12v and I definitely prefer good quality 24 and 12 and ground distribution blocks with mini ANL fuses.

[@tolzyt5338]

So cool. Well done. Great for guys like me who is electrically challenged. Superb! 👏🏻.

[@OkanaganOverland]

I wish you guys all the best with these products! I really do think they are a great idea. I especially liked the attention to details to give a place for the cable ties to secure the wire to prevent fatigue. My critiques would be that it just doesn't look finished, I think because it lacks the same rugged appearance as other products for the Overland/offroad market. Looks more like something found in a commercial building. Also the optional stainless holder and cover looks like it could be made lower profile (or at least currently only limited by the aux battery input?). Good luck again and I am really excited to see this out in the market! (Let me know if you need anything tested in Canada). Cheers

[@jasonbinder7281]

Well done gentlemen! I applaud your innovation and execution. You two seem to be great partners and compliment each other well. I've been enjoying watching you work together. As a long time fan I enjoy all the details and background but if I may suggest, some may find a shorter more direct video easier to to determine if this is the right solution for them. That enclosure is also pretty slick. I suggest considering making access tool less. Perhaps a hinge and magnet will do the trick. Cheers - Jason

[@michaelgrahamdesigns]

Finally!! Amazing. I'm sold!

[@jona3117]

Always extremely high quality videos. Thank you.

[@StevenVanStaden-o4j]

Very very noice and very interesting!!

[@fartymud]

I like it and it’s on my shopping list for my next build of 2021-22 . Thanks Guys

[@aus_overlander]

Water hub looks interesting!

[@lag_profil]

I like this engineer. "How long do we run it for to simulate..." "Let's see how long it takes to break it." That's how you test stuff!

[@ookeekthelibrarian]

I'm the same, I was taught if you make something you need know what will break it b4 you send it to the mine site.

[@MrSidestick72]

What astonishing "intro" Andrew... so cinematic!

[@gaj5701]

Little voltage drop across the board, yet probably plenty in the long run from your main battery to the unit, wherever you install it, then on to your DC/DC charger, back to the unit again, then on to your Aux battery & back to the unit again. Maybe I'm missing something as I'm an automotive design engineer so it's probably not aimed at me, but other than providing a heavy duty, relatively foolproof, labelled fuse box I'm not really seeing the advantage of this over a simple electrical install for the batteries/charging system close together to avoid voltage drop & a decent fusebox in an accessible point for all of the auxiliary electrics. Simplifying by complicating..

[@MrLoridin]

I agree totally with your assessment mate.

[@adam03957]

What I don’t get is how is this different to a pre terminated fusebox? Like I’ve just finished my set-up, battery to fusebox, laying out my fusebox with the same fuses the vehicle uses and cable to outlets, what was hard about that?

[@nosignal88]

Are you an engineer

[@gaj5701]

@@nosignal88 Yep, & I've built a couple of 4wd electrical systems using negative bus bar fuseboxes (with blown fuse indicator LEDs) & relay boxes for switching anything over 15A, all labelled properly for diagnostics in an accessible space taking up far less room & actually looking tidier & more manageable than this. I've never run main battery cables, aux battery cables & solar input to a junction box before a DC/DC charger though as it actually defies common electrical sense to lengthen the system & add any form of hub in between them. The kit looks great quality, but sadly isn't necessarily a leap forward in functionality unfortunately.

[@overland-workshop]

"back to the unit again . . " What? No. It's so clear that you are completely missing the point.

[@sgee8353]

Hi Andy Can you run us, (the great unwashed), thru how a winch would be connected thru the Aussie Dream Fusebox (ADF) Say I have a 4wd vehicle and decide to install your fuse box in the canopy as it is close to the solar panels and there is space. How would I connect my winch? In the past I would keep the cable run short and connect to the vehicle battery. How is it best done with the ADF?

[@auandrewd]

Awesome bit of kit well priced, wish it was around a few years ago .

[@ShalevJonathan]

I'm an electrical engineer working in the automotive industry for the last 8 years, and have designed similar (more complex) boards in the past. I'm sorry, but screw terminals are not the way to go- they are supposed to be used only with solid wires and in a non vibrating environment. If you market the board without the enclosure there is no mitigation for this problem. There are snap in terminals that are much better suited for the task. Is there any reverse polarity protection? All the test you show are held in room temperature, this is not the way to test an automotive product. You need to test it in thermal chamber simulating the high ambient temperatures inside a parked vehicle.

[@overlandphotography]

Well done and congratulations to you both !

[@EarthCamper]

I built Campervan... This is so true electrical build quality is low in our build. Your solution is really helpful.... 👍👍👍👍👍please plan to sell to India. We will buy.

[@LVNITUPM8]

You can buy online and get it sent over

[@EarthCamper]

@@LVNITUPM8 👍thank you

[@garypavis4913]

You guys are brilliant!! I love the simplicity of your Egon DC-Hub and yet the robust aspects for us overland builders that just need thing to be solid and work well. Love the easy troubleshooting ability you have with your system along with the ability to add devices when ever needed..…or remove them. When you are out and off the grid camping the last thing I want is some digital programmer not working or shutting things down or worse yet not turning it on. Awesome product!! I need this for my newest 2022 AEV Ram 2500 build. Please tell me where I can purchase your Egon DC Hub. I am in US Arizona

[@nasseral-momen1463]

There is a product called hotbox that is sold in oman that does what ypur talking about. Great product you guys have produced. For me it's between this and redvision. Since you have used redvision in your tourer can you please tell me the difference between the two products besides the simplicity fact. Thanks 😊

[@overland-workshop]

Redvision and the DC Hub do similar things but the DC hub is not digital, has no switching and no monitoring, no screens and nothing digital. But wiring is as simple as it can get. It a fraction of the price and anyone with basic wiring knowhow will be able to install it. You won't need both.

[@nasseral-momen1463]

@@overland-workshop thanks for the reply. I realised that you didn't want questions after I already posted. Much appreciated. Great product

[@nikapinturia4398]

Brilliant!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@mountainconstructions]

I think a good video... Would be to take a traditional wired DC installation Then install this product and physically show us how it improved things and saved time.

[@dannyotter7247]

Love it, I want one and I don’t even need it! One suggestion is a bolt-on/modular remote connection (Bluetooth or WiFI) remote control/view/alert/logging capability and an app. Can also see that for EVs this will be brilliant too because of reduced complexity, would be cool if you could hook it into the vehicles infotainment systems to enable integrated access.

[@overland-workshop]

"remote connection (Bluetooth or WiFI) remote control/view/alert/logging capability and an app." The Redvision does that. We won't be doing that.

[@seanchristie7150]

Awesome job and thanks to you both for your hard work and research n testing

[@sf017s4]

Well done ASPW. I hope you get one into the International Space Station!

[@anthonyaksionov9890]

Hats off to both of you what a great idea

[@SwampySi]

Isn't this just an S-Pod but without the switches?

[@robthurlow1347]

That is a really neat idea Andrew but I would suggest a modification to the circuit boards design. You have screw down cable terminals on the board. I would change them too the type that a small flat blade screw driver is just pushed into to fit and release the cables they are far better, I'm a marine engineer and work on lots of ships systems that have these screw down cable terminals and while very high quality they come loose and cause a lot of problems in the high vibration environment of a ships engine room. I would be willing to bet that if driving with these screw terminals over constant corrigations and the general high vibration environment of a vehicle, they will come undone on a regular basis and cause niggling problems. Other wise neat idea.

[@finnianfitzsimons623]

satisfyingly well executed product

[@fredbreck8172]

Like new ideas and perfect engineering! Hope your sales video will help to be successful! BR

[@shanevillis4079]

I think the marine industry would certainly be using something very similar for some time.

[@AggyGoesOutdoors]

Many many industries have, I think Andrew is relying on the ignorance of his potential market... You know what they say, a fool and his money...

[@JustPete65]

Can you find a link to one? I don't even know what to search for

[@heinzweber7642]

@@JustPete65 try "Victron" Netherlands

[@Christian76S]

Best are the screw terminals incl. the tie down points for cable ties. Love it.

[@PhilUys]

Two problems for me: far too expensive at $800 for what you get and the physical size is rather large as space is always an issue.

[@gepwxaqdfsidsesg1548]

At $800 we can expect some Chinese clones pretty quickly.

[@Rider-EuropeanMotorcycles]

Nice product indeed, wanted one, visited the website, saw the price, and i was out... importing it in Europe, would bring the pricing even more up... for a full equiped camper, yes, for a more basic 4x4 with less connections, too expensive (for me)

[@aussiecampingbloke55]

Rather large? How can it be smaller?

[@PhilUys]

@@aussiecampingbloke55 It would be easy to make it smaller by at least a third. All the dead space between the connectors and fuse holders can be eliminated. The enclosure can be designed to save plenty of space.

[@k2svpete]

@@Rider-EuropeanMotorcycles he stated that it's aimed at medium to complex DC systems.

[@musokid89]

Fantastic, it makes so much sense. Amazing someone hasn't done it already so good on you for doing it first! I'm sure the water one will be fantastic too!

[@cpk3050]

Good luck, really hope this is a success for all involved

[@JayMaverick]

Remarkable product.

[@nothingtoseaheardammit]

This would have really been great - if it integrated a relay system so that switch panels could be easily integrated. An SPODs setup without their ugly switches. Plus all of the other stuff with the aux battery stuff you're doing....

[@overland-workshop]

Then it would just be another Redarc Redvision. This isn't the same and its not trying to be.

[@Anderzander]

At first I thought it was everything in one place - so a vsr or dc/dc system built in and perhaps with some monitoring or maybe even Bluetooth control and an app perhaps ... but instead it seem to be a distribution board with screw terminals, some regulation, and LED indicator lights? a bit like this for £15: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-Way-LED-Blade-Fuse-Box-with-Negative-Bus-Bar-and-Cover-Car-Boat-Marine-/253750072145?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

[@leonwielstra]

100%. It looks like they tried to over engineer something that is simple and most importantly cheap. Anyone who has the capacity to use this system won't have any issues using crimpers & solder with standard fuses & fuse blocks

[@dankurtis5738]

Any plans to make a board with integrated relays to switch the circuits?

[@AggyGoesOutdoors]

Like the sort used in rally cars for years...

[@thewhiteoxoverland]

Those of you who think this is really just a glorified fuse box are somewhat missing the point. However it will not eliminate voltage drop issues. For that you will need to understand conductor losses in typical automotive copper cable. And for that you'll need a simple formula. So for anyone interested, here it is: Voltage drop over a cable run can be calculated as: Conductor length in metres (including return path) × current draw in amperes × the arbitrary figure for copper conductors of 0.0164 ÷ cable x sectional area in mm2. (You will need to ascertain the cable conductors cross sectional area in mm2 in order for this formula to be effective. Not the cable diameter. There are various charts available for this) As an example 0 B+S is 50mm2 and 2B+S is about 35mm2 and so on. ( B+S and AWG are roughly equivalent) The aim is to have no more than about 3% but less is best

[@OverlandPioneers]

Doesn’t the RedArc RedVision do the job?

[@TWX1138]

It looks like RedVision might suffer from having unnecessary complexity. That said it does look like it integrates not only the power distribution but also the controls. I personally want something sort of halfway in between this and RedVision. I want something that has the robust power distribution and fault indication, but also includes relays for proper switching of circuits that a user might wish to be switched from a low-current panel. Think of typical automotive wiring and logic from say, fifteen to twenty years ago. One version is a switch that instructs a relay to change state. The other is an input to a BCM, the input is taken as a momentary, the input tells the BCM to turn on or turn off something, allowing multiple inputs for control, like multiple door sensors activating the dome light.

[@escapecamper]

yes, yes it does. plus has switching.

[@ianwatson3315]

Nothing like being over dramatic about your own product.

[@TechStories79]

The redarc is light years ahead of this

[@kclamer]

Andrew, no resettable fuses is a no go for me. I love the idea of the product and the design is amazing. I understand that the size of the unit is reduced by using regular fuses but I cannot rely on bringing replacement fuses and troubleshooting by swapping them. At least you need 5 circuit breaks that can be reset.

[@LVNITUPM8]

You can actually buy resetting fuses so you are not having to carry replacement

[@g0fvt]

Not trolling, but not a question as such either, Kapton tape on the metal panel behind the PCB would make sure that no-one can cause a short by flexing the PCB, I know what people are like for breaking things. A captive tool with a screw driver blade and an allen key attached to the unit would not be so daft, reminiscent of the pen on a string you might find in a bank. Normal people might carry a screwdriver but are unlikely to have not lost the right size allen key even if they had one in the first place. A small section of the board also could usefully be used to hold a small stock of blade fuses, or a very simple supplemental board to carry spare fuses. As someone who has made a living as a field service engineer (radio) I somewhat understand the concept that whatever the fault is there must be tools and simple spares in my vehicle to get the job done.

[@shane0yourgod]

Very expensive fuse box. You mentioned it has the solar input but I don’t think it’s is worth that kind of cash. I do t kind a little crimping and soldering, especially to save enough cash for a new surfboard. On the other hand, the water system sounds great, I would be interested to learn more about it.

[@terryoleary5424]

Really looking forward to water hub video

[@AsherPardey]

Love the product!

[@dinosshed]

I'm thinking it's a great concept and well executed. Plenty of room to make additions such as a few usb outlets, relay and some automation.

[@danielbuckham2423]

Well done. Keen when I do my 12v set up - also keen in the water one too! Bet all the copy cats will be hard at work. Kings have probably already ordered one to send off to China to replicate 🤦🏻‍♂️.

[@mountainconstructions]

I thought it was going to have some Auto Load Shedding.... Monitor the Current Over Time of each output Allow for Bluetooth Monitoring and Switching of each load... The only problem with a single device to which all are connected, is if something fails on that device. And I'm not sure DC wiring needs a central location... It sure doesn't look under bonnet friendly.... or have much of an IP rating. Hopefully it goes well for you both It does tidy the average install up a bit

[@offthemeynroad4054]

What am I missing? Cool unit but the price is insane.

[@MrCharrrles]

Nice product, I'm very interested in the water solution

[@rasta77-x7o]

Interesting, handy to have fuses all together.

[@billroach2393]

But ask yourself the question: Is it worth over $800- to have all your fuses in one place? You've still got to factor-in relays and switching cabling. It'll end up being a dog's breakfast.

[@rasta77-x7o]

@@billroach2393 for me no, as I don't run much 12v stuff. Esky and single battery works for me.

[@MrLoridin]

Not sure I like this idea, seems to me there is a lot of potential for high current positive cables being bare at the connection terminals which is dangerous. Those cables should have shielding, if someone isn't capable of using a soldering iron, crimping and shielding their own cables they have no business trying to wire up an electrical system. The footprint of this thing would probably cause more grief than it's worth, certainly more space than I would like to give to it. Your comments regarding voltage drop are a tad misleading as the entire point of using a DCDC in the first place is to overcome voltage drop from using undersize cable runs. DCDC's swap high current, low voltage for low current high voltage after the voltage drop has occurred in the initial cable run. That is why a DCDC is always next to the battery it's servicing so there is intangible voltage drop from that point. The other safety aspect is your fuses should ALWAYS be as close to the power source as possible. This thing allows people to have fuses nowhere near the source upfront which again is dangerous and a bad idea. $840 for glorified fuse holder? okay maybe that is harsh, but it smacks of a premium solution looking for a problem rather than solving one.

[@JustPete65]

I'm dumber than dumber with DC and big $$$ but you could still put a fuse near the power or does that defeat the object?

[@dinosshed]

I tend to think it's an excellent idea that is already in use for A/C voltage systems. It's a compact version of a fuse/circuit breaker board on a house or factory. All the juice goes to the one central location where it's easily terminated and fused. Looks like a very reliable, user friendly board that will no doubt be copied a million times over in years to come.

[@k2svpete]

Ahhh, the fuses are right next to power source for all those accessory outlets. There's one high current input from the main battery, obviously a fuse gets placed up there. Paying attention is important, mmkay?

[@MrLoridin]

@@k2svpete "obviously a fuse gets placed up there" are no not obviously, as the whole point of this product is so "ALL the fuses are in one central spot" and that you don't "need to know how to crimp or solder or use heat shrink". Paying attention to what ASPW said about his product is important, mmkay?

[@k2svpete]

@@MrLoridin yes, you should pay attention champ.

[@iBrendanWhite]

This looks awesome! Is the solar charger pwm or mppt?

[@overland-workshop]

It is not a solar charger. It can accept solar chargers.