5 common painting mistakes: And what you can try instead

[@aerendil9143]

Absolutely right Christy, I've been using Windor Newton brushes for going on 28 years, and they do give durable and excellent quality brushes. Don't know whether you've ever tried Imrey/Risley brushes but they are also an excellent paintbrush manufacturer at a slightly lower price and I would recommend them to anyone just starting out.

[@Kaucukovnik666]

When you were talking about the eyes and how they are used as a display of ability, I immediately thought of an analogy with music. There are many excellent musicians who are really skilled with their instruments, but their compositions often amount to showing off their technical prowess instead of just making music that is interesting and pleasant to listen to. A story goes that Yngwie Malmsteen (I think) was taunting Eddie Van Halen that anyone could play his music, and Eddie replied something like: "Sure, but could you compose it?"

[@BrickworksDK]

Honestly, I've been rather disappointed with expensive brushes. In my experience, they don't keep the point any better than cheap brushes and they degrade almost as fast. I went with expensive sable brushes from an art store for a while but I've found myself returning to the cheaper version from the local hobby store instead. On a by-year basis, it's much cheaper, even if I do burn through a few more brushes. I've heard other say that, when painting with acrylics, it's doesn't really matter what quality you buy, the brush will degrade rapidly anyway. Something about acrylics being hard on the brush for some reason...

[@elementc]

I bet you weren't even using brush soap.

[@BrickworksDK]

Actually, I am. :-)

[@elementc]

Did you make sure to leave some in when storing? Did you also make sure to not dip it in paint further than half way up? How often did you get paint in the ferrule?

[@BrickworksDK]

Usually leave a bit in the brush, yes. Not very much though. Never dip it deeper than the tip.

[@beavisemojihere]

About acrylics, I have noticed that too. I am an experienced oil painter and a beginner mini painter. With the oil paints, the brushes are fine, but I had borrowed a few of them to use for mini painting and I won't do that again! You can wash them all you want, but it sucks up paint so fast into the ferrule and dries so fast that acrylics destroy them. Maybe I just have to clean them more often, but damn, acrylics DO seem to destroy brushes. Nope, I buy the cheap ones from hobby lobby, use a 40% coupon and buy another one in a couple of months when that one is destroyed. It's like $2-$5 every couple months, which isn't that bad.

[@TheRhetoricGamer]

no eyes > poorly painted eyes

[@JimTrivial]

in the right scale I feel like it gives a much more aggressive/ominous look as well (if that's what they're going for)

[@Yourlocaltankgirl8375]

Usually I just put shadows by the eyes. But not too much. Eyes are tricky

[@EdAllen]

Eyes dotted in with the finest point Micron pens are better than no eyes and easier than painting eyes.

[@Ronald_DMNKLR_Smith]

Drybrushing is an art form all it's own. It's not something that one will necessarily take to right away, though some of us do (everyone's different, right?). The key is to be patient and compare your work to realistic examples (not others' works, but real-life things). I started painting over 20 years ago, and began drybrushing within a few years thereafter, so I naturally took to it from the get-go, but I understand that some may not. I actually started out by re-painting accessories for my action figures, such as G.I. Joes, TMNT, etc., as well as practicing all other techniques on the figures and toys themselves (washes, fx, etc.), which I highly recommend folks to do, if they're new to it or are uncertain as to their ability. Regardless, as to drybrushing, it's actually quite easy to do it without there being a dry and dusty effect. Firstly, use natural color progression, don't just go straight to an extreme highlight off the bat, as it looks unnatural. Secondly, use thin, very light layers. Drybrushing is a technique that requires patience and a keen eye that will tell you when enough is enough. You'll quickly be able to gauge where the stopping point is, so that you don't over-do it. If you drybrush properly, that dreaded look (such as that which you showed with the Dwarf) won't occur. In fact, using that particular model as an example, red hair isn't ever just a solid chunk of one shade of red/orange, there are natural variations of color. As such, one should begin drybrushing with a slightly lighter tint than the base layer, in randomly-placed sections of the hair, beginning from the roots on outward. From there, gradually progress to lighter and lighter tints, with the lightest (but not *too* light) tint simply highlighting the tips of the hair, where a light source (especially sunlight) will be hitting it. If you want to go as detailed as one such as I would, you can even do a slightly darker-than-the-base shade wash over the base layer first, using a dried/damp brush to soak up the water/wipe off excess from raised areas, and then use the base coat color as the beginning to your drybrush layers. It's almost insane the naturally-appearing detail that you can achieve by doing these things. It takes a lot of time, but it's 100% worth it when you see the end results. These work for literally everything, btw, not just flesh or hair, but the level of detail you can get on armor and weapons is just astounding. (just my 2 cents)

[@bpezzano1]

I recently painted a 1:72 scale pilot figure for an aircraft. And at that scale. In the cockpit. you wouldn't even be able to see the eyes. So I didn't even bother. Great information , as always. Thank you!

[@DerAua]

The way it works with the sables is in Russia or China people make a trap from wire where the sable gets his foot caught and the wire cuts down to their bone. Days later the trapper comes and cuts the tail of the sable, alive or not. The rest is left there rotting. Then the tip of the tail gets the hair plucked out and this gets put in your brush. The trapper receives a couple of cents for the tail and the dealer a couple of dollars. You of course pay a lot more for the finished product to the big million dollar company. Enjoy!

[@FoxDragon]

I'm just considering taking up miniature painting as a hobby and exploring video's for tips, love the tip on the brush (thanks for giving the exact brand and series number, makes it easy to find) and wanted to ask a couple questions - 1) is there a preferred size or range of sizes? Obv. smaller since miniatures, but what do you find you get the most use out of? and 2) what brands of paint do you recommend? Just like brushes not all paints are created equal and miniature paints are something I know nothing about right now!

[@irrationalgeographic9953]

Totally agree with you on the eye thing. The only time I will ever paint a detailed eye is for comp's or when I have a commission that is going to be a display or show piece.

[@VideoCesar07]

Oh, you have made an eternal subscriber out of me with this video. I have been painting model kits for a while now and did the standard figure for the plane, tank or mecha. It wasn't until I found out about Kingdom Death that I really got the mini bug. Practicing on some Reaper Bones minis until I get a set of 32mm I ordered from a Kickstarter. The ONE THING I can't thank you enough for is the part about the eyes. I don't know why but in the model kit community there is this mentality that you should always try to paint the eyes. As you mentioned, on anything 1/35 or smaller it is extremely hard to get it to look right. Other modelers always asked why I didn't paint the eyes. I didn't do it because I don't have the skill and, as you said, I ruined otherwise great figures for my skill level with "spooked eyes." Your points are all very well made and clearly explained. Off to watch your Heave Metal vid. One more thing: I see you have a vid around painting Batman and that is hard in itself with all the variations of black shades. Do you have a similar video for a white ? I read an awesome article in a magazine for it but would love to see your approach.

[@Kampfgruppekitty]

All very good points you brought up, especially dry brushing and the eye painting. Many good artists will always tell you that the paint brush is (along with quality paints) of extreme importance when wanting good results. I don't think that point can ever be over stated. Nice work!

[@bartstrybos7583]

bought myself some sabel hair brushes after watching this video, and results are way up :)

[@bbblackwell]

This is the first time I'm seeing one of your videos, nice to meet you! This is also the most thoughtful discussion on miniatures painting I've seen, and I know you're just scratching the surface. I've subscribed without seeing anything else because based on this video I trust your overall judgement and am 100% positive that your content will be valuable and worthwhile. Thanks so much!

[@wssmagazine]

Gosh, thanks for praise! I'm really not that coherent most of the time, I promise. I hope my other videos won't disappoint.

[@bbblackwell]

Wargames, Soldiers and Strategy No, I've already watched many more of your vids and you've really helped me broaden my overall perspective and have motivated me to tackle the mountains of minis that I've yet to paint. I'm a board-gamer, and I am drawn to adventure games that use miniatures, but I simply can't bear seeing those blobs of unpainted plastic on my table. Since I tend to buy games faster than I can paint them, I'm very much drowning in unfinished business at the moment. Armed with some of your ideas, however, I feel I can tackle this job. I've finally invested in the right brushes and a Citadel wash after over a year of painting with second-rate supplies. I also cut up some wooden dowels and purchased the drill bit I need to make holes for that nifty stand you have there! Thanks again, I look forward to your future videos -- and definitely keep going with the advice vids, they're fantastic! -Brian Blackwell

[@csabahegedus1744]

And I subscribed only based on your honest opinion! I don't have to watch the video right now but I already know it will be a very well spent 40 minutes :D

[@EssentialTremor]

When it comes to painting eyes, the simplest way to go about it is using a toothpick. The fine wooden point keeps good control and prevents you from making the pupil too large. It also holds just the right amount of paint required for the job.

[@Cptpaul12]

"shit-a-ly made" @2:56 I totally LOL'd on that!

[@jeffrichards5106]

Thanks for all the great advice. I just subscribed. You're an awesome painter and appreciate the way you explain things. I used to paint miniatures quite a bit when I was younger. Mostly for D & D. Haven't painted mini's in a long time, but am starting to get back into it. Did some half way decent models but back then we didn't have KZbin and all these very expensive books on painting miniatures. So I didn't know very many techniques. Bummer.. now that I'm older, have to wear glasses and use a magnifying lamp just to see what the hell I'm doing. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Hoping to get back into this hobby and get better too.

[@thenovicedm7966]

I look forward to seeing your work and the videos that you produce. This is the first time I've seen your channel and was intrigued by your critical review and insights into painting miniatures. You offer quite a few points and present them in a tone that grabbed my attention. I didn't find it welcoming...but it was fairly professional. As a novice painter it wasn't so much engaging and influential as it was critical and judgmental. Since I don't know you and have a very limited knowledge of the subject I sincerely hope the other videos on your channel are more welcoming and draws me in. I'd rather be taught than lectured. Then again, I believe the truth is in the final outcome and I look forward to seeing what your channel and skills have produced. Best wishes on your channel and I'm very much looking forward to hearing and seeing what you have to present.

[@johnandre2962]

Any plans to do more tutorials? These were some of the first I followed when starting in the hobby. Would be cool to see new stuff :-) Hope all is well.

[@zirrian]

Well, we came to the same conclusion - in my local club, most club members either paint exclusively with drybrushing, or use too much wash, or paint Ctulhu-eyes (you know, the one you makes after you've seen an Old One) and so forth. And when they ask me how to get better and I tell the same things as you...they don't listen. Ah well, good video, thanks for making it. I'll share it with folks I know and need it.

[@Sorrowdusk]

+zirrian I dunno...I dont mind the eyes. And no eyes just doesnt quite do it for me but...I seldom paint humans or things with pupils anyway XD

[@Nordvind78]

Been painting for about 20 years now,love this hobby :) Totally agree with your video and thanks for this great work you do! Great results on the models :) You just got one more subscriber.

[@e-4airman124]

It is evident that you care deeply about your life's work. thank you for the advice.

[@carbon1255]

I think that some of this comes from 40k, where there is a big difference between a space marine with painted lenses and without.

[@jamesgoad1553]

I feel the same way about OSL as you do painting eyes. I rarely see convincing OSL but the community has seemed to embrace every effort as if the hand of DaVinci has guided the brush. Mostly it looks like trash painted over what is usually a pretty good base paint job.

[@wssmagazine]

+James Goad OSL can be super cool when done appropriately, the problem (at least in my opinion) is that a lot of people have found you can do a sort of cheap, dirty version with an airbrush, which they then apply to everything, because they can. It therefore gets overused and starts to look dumb.

[@AzraelThanatos]

One comment about cheap brushes is that while they are horrible for painting the minis, they are great for other things. If you're basing, pay a buck and get the big pack of cheap crappy brushes to spread glue around on bases for your basing. The bigger sets of them are also great things for terrain and similar things. For the wash, some of that does depend slightly, with some of the "dirtier" washes, they work great for actually making parts of a model look dirty, for example the lower legs of a model you would have tramping around in the jungle getting a brown wash or a mechanic of similar getting a few areas hit with a black.

[@RobertChisholm]

Speaking of buying expensive brushes. I have a "Artificer" brush from GamesWorkshop's new 2015 series of brushes. The size compares to a 00 brush. It paints just as well as my Winsor and Newton 00. It was almost twice the cost though. It's funny the W&N sable brushes are cheaper the smaller they are. GW's brushes are cheaper the larger they are.

[@wssmagazine]

+Robert Chisholm I probably wouldn't buy any GW modeling tools, just on principle. I am 100% that they are all overpriced, just like their models. ;-) It may even be that their brushes are actually made by W&N. I feel like I may have seen something about that somewhere, but maybe I'm wrong...

[@jeffreyfletcher1788]

+Robert Chisholm I recently bought some GW brushes for the first time. They worked well enough at first. Only problem was that they curled, split and frayed before I was even done with a force of about 15 models. Ironic because I thought I'd try them to see if they were more durable and I was very vigilant about keeping them clean.

[@codierobb9676]

+Wargames, Soldiers and Strategy are you from the UK?

[@wssmagazine]

I'm from the US. :-)

[@highmarshalhelbrecht4715]

Robert Chisholm the artificer is a winds er they are made by the same company 1 comes in a fancy box 1 comes in a plastic tube.

[@sandtable8091]

I agree. Having said that, I do 20mm so eye painting doesn't come up... though I have seen the occasional person trying it and that just becomes a cautionary event.

[@dboussios8694]

I am an experienced painter that can probably hold his own quite decently in a competition, but I find nr. 2 and 3 quite difficult points to get behind. I know how you mean both points and I think I know what your main message is, but both are not something I'd like to give even a beginner as a rule of "conduct". First and foremost rule is: anything goes! As long as the result is good, really anything does! And I can't count the times I've finished an area on a model on a well placed, full surface wash or two. That's the cool thing about this hobby; the possibilities are endless! Now I appreciate the video's message. I know you want to encourage people to be kinder to their models. But axioms seldom are good advisors. Even when one is a beginner.

[@wssmagazine]

+Demetrios B Of course I realize that if you are experienced, you can do nearly everything and get good results, when the technique is used appropriately. However, when making this type of video, I find it necessary to generalize and exaggerate to a certain extent -- and those two points in particular were aimed at beginners. As that was the case, I didn't think going into great detail about all the nuances and possibilities and exceptions about when to use various techniques was helpful - rather it would be overwhelming. It was meant to help people with fundamental issues get better, not criticize experienced painters who know the full possibilities of those techniques, since I suspect there are many people watching my channel that are at the 'less experienced' end of the spectrum. I also really tried to emphasize especially at the end of the video that the most important thing was to figure out what made you happy and not listen too much to what other people think. However, I apologize if those bits came off as too 'absolutist' for you. It's hard to make these types of videos without taking a hard stance, which inevitably leads to ruffling some feathers.

[@dboussios8694]

Hey there... No, feathers were definitely not ruffled. Just wanted to offer another view-point. What's the point of the Interwebs, if not to offer too many answers to a single questions. :) Sorry if I came across too antagonistic. Your vids are excellent for experienced and inexperienced painters alike.

[@wssmagazine]

+Demetrios B Not at all. I appreciate a well-expressed, critical opinion. On reflection, I probably could have phrased things better so as not to make it seem quite so "black and white". I personally don't consider my videos for really advanced painters - that's what channels like Painting Buddha and the like are for - but I am glad you still get something useful from my stuff now and then. :-)

[@humanhyndscalemodeling]

Great vid. Thanks for sharing your expertise on this great hobby!!!

[@davidcollins2648]

Quality brushes save you countless hours of time spent dressing up poor edges, over-painting etc etc. How much is your time worth? A good brush would still be a bargain if they cost $100 each, seriously. Very good videos you have, thank you for sharing your vast knowledge with the rest of us.

[@cassthenerd6023]

Great video, I actually use the Army Painter branded brushes, not quite as good as WN but I got a set of 11 for 40 bucks and they work really well. For a person on a budget looking for a starter set its hard to beat.

[@wssmagazine]

+Daniel Castaneda If they are working well for you, no need to replace them, I'd say!

[@cassthenerd6023]

Wargames, Soldiers and Strategy They are! Thanks again for the great video.

[@Exoc3tBOOM]

I question I have about the washes point. Especially with camouflage patterns, I've found the best result to be to make the pattern brighter than it actually is, do multiple washes and then sparingly highlight ridges. I know you are doing this as a kind of blanket video about mistakes, however I do believe that washes can be a massive time saver and in some cases where the pattern if made with toothpicks, highlighting just ruins the effect of the camouflage. I prefer gritty looking models, than shiny over the top blending most top painters seem to favor.

[@wssmagazine]

You're right. It's a blanket video for beginners. There are naturally times when it makes sense to finish with washes, and camo is certainly one of those times. My tutorials on the complex patterns handle it very similarly to what you mentioned. I just want to discourage people who get in the habit of abusing washes for everything. There will always be exceptions to everything when it comes to anything artistic!

[@rbale2]

I agree with all the points, although I have found that I do use a wash as a final step for one technique only: dark indigo jackets on colonial troops. With this I do dark blue highlighted with mixed in flesh, finish off with a flat black wash and I think it produces the best looking indigo.

[@wssmagazine]

+rbale2 I'd say if it works for you, go for it! My advice is sort of aimed at 99% of the cases, but there will always be that 1% where it IS useful and makes sense.

[@stevewhan7308]

Can you please do a demo of how you clean your brushes? I use Acrylics. I tend to be mega-brutal on my brushes, due no doubt to terrible technique in brush maintenance.

[@JohnWise-vg3zj]

Can you apply paint if you already shellacked them? I painted a stagecoach, but I want to change a few things on it, but we already shellacked it.

[@DocEonChannel]

I often use a speed painting technique I call "finishing wash" or "top wash", but terminology is probably tripping us up here. What I mean by that is not usually using something like the Citadel shade washes, but simply finishing an area with a glaze of a midtone, which ties the underlying colors together. Sometimes I do this to salvage an area that I've accidentally highlighted too far, but when I do it intentionally I actually highlight "too far" on purpose. Why? Well, it saves time by creating transitions quickly, so I don't need as many layers. ;)

[@wssmagazine]

+Doc Eon I actually do talk about that a bit in the dry brushing section. You're right that a light wash on an area can be useful, or a pin wash on select areas for emphasis. I just want want to discourage people from relying on washes to do all their shading. Obviously, when you know what you are doing, you can break some of the 'rules' ;-)

[@pdogone1]

know this is older vid but be nice to see you do an imperial guard lancer or a red lancer...will keep an eye out..

[@dogedimmadome1895]

Im guilty of the first one, split between buying more models or better brushes, i have a $15 brush with a grip and fine tip, it has worked really well so far with no fraying but i need to get a better one.

[@srmadman01]

Very helpful, and valued opinions....... Even if you think your experienced at painting, she teaches or gives you new lessons in every video.

[@SleepyHollowRestoredMikeJohns]

I often find maintenance is as important as brush quality! Even cheap artist loft brushes can perform very well for your money. Best part is when they die a quick death it costs you pennies rather than buying a Windsor Newton and letting it go to crap!I own a variety of Kolinsky and Windsor Newton but I also use the artist Loft when it suits my purpose! Great work tho! Beginners need to have some idea of what they face when becoming a member of this rewarding hobby!

[@shaunthegreat]

This was so helpful, thanks! You've earned a subscriber :)

[@johnthornton3590]

I restarted painting 18mm war game figures recently, after a 25 year break. My main interested is the AWI period. This is the first video of yours I have seen and I am very impressed. I will definitely view your other videos. I cheat with the eyes by just painting the eyes black, looks ok to me on 18mm war game figures. I assume you use the Windsor Newton Series 7 Miniature Range or are the Round Type Range brushes better? Do you have a video on applying varnish and if matt or gloss should be used? I use the Vallejo Model Color paints and I find it very helpful where videos nominate actual paint colours they are using. One of the hardest things I find is to match paint colours to original AWI uniform colours, although actual uniform colours would have varied greatly due to age, quality of dye colour, ware etc.

[@bushyfromoz8834]

Hoping someone answers my question. I'm returning to the hobby after 15 years off, I still have tons of equipment stored away, but what i don't have is paint. is there any set or combination of sets of the Vallejo or Scale75 acrylics that would get me started into ancient Roman or Greek 75mm figures? The only thing available locally are Humbrol tins. I hated them 15 years ago and I'm sure that hasn't changed. Anything \I buy will need to be mail ordered and shipped here. Thanks for any replies ;)

[@666lupine666]

I am addicted to cheap, hobby store brushes. however I have some extra money these days and out of respect for you I may indeed pick up a sable brush. thanks for the detailed advice.

[@Spacefrisian]

You can actually save money on paints, get the Revell paint line (those in square boxes) they are cheaper, and are of good quality, the range does lack a purple colour.

[@Randall82760]

Hi Christi ( Hope I spelled right). I have been watching many of your episodes and I was wondering. How do you keep your paint so spread out on your Palette from drying to soon. Mine dries to fast no matter what I do. Next question. I was stationed at RAF Lakenheath and was wondering where that is in relation to where you and your husband stay.

[@yougosquishnow]

So I must be doing something wrong. I have two Windsor Newton series 7 brushes, a size 1 and size 0. And they are the only brushes I have that fray while applying paint. I have these cheap brushes I got online, and my size 2 from that set holds a point Everytime I use it. What am I doing wrong?

[@torak2000]

I've been painting minis on and off since 1986: eyes are massively over rated by painters. Lay people hardly notice them. More times then not, they notice they look "off" (to big / small / weird). I would say, reserve eyes for characters that have very pronounced faces and it is very noticeable if they aren't painted. Don't be disappointed when no one notices you bothered to do it.

[@jas_bataille]

Extremely right with the brushes. A size 0 chinese synthetic fibers brush IS bigger than a size 0 Raphaël sand brush (I'm a Raphaël guy, yes they're the most expensive in the business, almost 100$ for 3 damn brushes, but never looked back). Citadel brushes are nice too for larger ones.

[@jeffreyfletcher1788]

I was hoping that poor quality or thick/gloppy paint would make the top 5. Last night I painted a base color with what I thought was decent paint, but it clearly went on too thick and filled/blurred some of the fine details on the model. I really don't want to start over, but I'm beginning to fear that it's either that or learn to live with it.

[@wssmagazine]

+Jeffrey Fletcher That's a really good one! I think lots of people struggle with paint that's the wrong consistency. Maybe if I ever make a part II of this video... more suggestions please. :-)

[@Sorrowdusk]

+Wargames, Soldiers and Strategy Is Vallejo just right, straight out of the bottle?

[@wssmagazine]

Mostly it needs to be thinned down at least a little bit. If it's Vallejo Air, you could probably use it straight from the bottle in a lot of cases.

[@derekcutsinger3511]

Nice tips! Do you have any advice for painting clothing where the sculpt does not have an creases? I always find shading and highlighting pants and shirts that have been sculpted that way difficult. If there are creases, it's easy to figure out where to put shading, mid-tones, and highlights, not so much when its just a smooth, curved surface. Thanks!

[@wssmagazine]

+Derek Cutsinger Also tricky. I assume of course you are asking for an easy-ish method, not the blending and layering I do in a lot of my videos. Unfortunately, I don't know a REALLY cheap, dirty way to accomplish that. For an EASIER method than what I use, might want to look at some of Kevin Dallimore's painting books. His technique lets you add artificial highlights and shadows to areas in a fairly efficient manner.

[@derekcutsinger3511]

Blending and layering would be great!

[@wssmagazine]

In that case, I suggest you check out some of my other painting tutorials - just look for ones where I am painting big smooth areas, or figures with out a lot of wrinkles in their clothes.

[@JohnWise-vg3zj]

What company paint do you recommend for beginners (like me)?

[@modelmagician3743]

Lovely video brushs are the top cause of modeling newbie mistakes.I use Windsor newton and kalinski my granddad is a professional water color artest and he gave me loads. 😃 Thanks for video interesting and I have 20 years experience as a scale modeller.but ime just getting into the wargaming its great.💘

[@wssmagazine]

I also started using them due to water colour work I was doing in art school. When I took up model painting, I sort of independently discovered they worked nicely on the mini too, and only later discovered that I wasn't the only person who'd had that idea...

[@hazed1009]

thank you really interesting and a lot of great tips , I hear you about the brushes I tried a kolinsky and its my go to brush now. I'm guilty of the wash finish (sorry! hehe) but to be honest as I'm doing ww2 I really like the dirty look (for combat units anyway, not the generals and civilians of course). if you paint a Stalingrad sniper in dress uniform they look kinda toy- like so I find I'm tending to then paint ON muck !! washes can look great on a street fighting paratrooper and even faces with dark cheeks look like battle camo makeup. Guess there can be exceptions for taste. However I'd never claim the quality of my painting can match a pro"s but I am happy with my early efforts and feel I'm improving as I'm getting used to (and test buying!) the tools and materials needed. I really appreciate your videos as you save me a lot of money I think! series 7 sable here I come!! :) thanks again and don't despair on those tips not sinking in, some do take notice ;) even if it takes a year!

[@wssmagazine]

+Hazed 100 You make a good point. Washes and drybrushing CAN certainly be effective for making dirty, messy looking models when you want that look. Personally, when I do it, I focus it on specific areas like feet and legs so as not to overdo it, but depending on the look you are going for, you might want it everywhere. I think the main thing is that you are consistent across the whole army you are painting.

[@markahlstrom3642]

+Wargames, Soldiers and Strategy The other point about this is that the scale you're painting in matters for the right technique. I do lots of 3mm and 6mm stuff. If I try to feather in highlighting, the models look cartoonish. If I just hit with base colors, a wash, and a couple shades of drybrushing (heavy drybrush with a lighter version of the basecoat, then a very light dust coat), it looks pretty dang good. And I have yet to try eyes on my 3mm figs. Other thing (related), I prefer cheap brushes for drybrushing exactly because they dont hold paint well.

[@wssmagazine]

I would obviously not recommend you use expensive brushes to drybrush, and no clearly the techniques for 28mm are not the same for 15mm or 6mm. I've addressed most of those things in separate videos - this was really just aimed at the most common situations and the most common figure scale. I would certainly hope most people watching would realize themselves that drybrushing with a series 7 is a bad idea.

[@kidooudenbroek4419]

About the brushes. I've bought a Winsor & Newton series 7 size 1 brush last year. After a month it started splitting and it was unusable. I took good care of the brush with the Masters brush cleaner and preserver. After that I went back to cheap brushes because I didn't want to buy a €13 brush every month. My questions: Did I do something wrong? What other brand can you recommend? Because Winsor & Newton really disappointed me... Thank you for the great video's!

[@jamesgoad1553]

+Kido Oudenbroek I've had my WN Series 7 brushes for years. They are still holding their tip as well as the day I bought them. I'm far from an expert on the matter but I've found the quickest way to destroy a brush and cause it to split is to let paint work its way into the ferrule where it eventually dries. I'm particularly careful not to load the brush with too much paint and when I add paint and thinners to my palette I use an old art store brush to mix. I also do not use them to paint with metallics, which is a rare thing these days anyhow. On the other hand, at one time I bought a rather expensive synthetic brush from Michael's (a hobby shop chain store around here) for fine detail painting and the tip quickly curved into a hook. It's only Kahlinksy Sable for me now.

[@RobertChisholm]

+Kido Oudenbroek Are you getting paint in the ferrule of the brush (the metal bit) ? That is really bad for brushes. I bought the same brush in December 2014. I do see stray hairs sticking out often. Giving the brush a spin after loading paint gets it back to a point. After about 6 months I started losing hairs from the brush. Forcing me to cut the stray hair or pluck it out. Some hairs just fallout on their own. It's still my goto brush. But after a 15 months of use I'll need to buy a new one this year.

[@wssmagazine]

+Kido Oudenbroek Wow - I'm sorry you had such a bad experience! My W&N's always last months, and even when they wear out, it's not due to hairs splitting. I would almost say you had a defective brush, but it's hard to say. What James said is also totally right - bad technique can be a major factor in brushes going bad. However, I have no idea how you paint and you DO say you clean your brushes regularly. I might say give it one more try, just to make sure it wasn't defective? If you have the same problem again, maybe you do want to look at your technique to see if there is a problem there. Do your other, cheaper brushes normally last longer for you, or do they all wear out that fast? I don't really have any other specific brand recommendations unfortunately, as I've never personally needed to shop around.

[@jffrats]

Awesome videos! I haven't painted in YEARS so thanks for the reminders. BTW: What kind of building do you have in the background? It looks perfect for a bunch of different genres. Thanks again and take care.

[@wssmagazine]

It's a French Chateau from Total Battle Miniatures. You can find a review elsewhere on the channel. It IS cool, but unfortunately is fairly limited, in that it was designed to work pretty specifically with WWII only, but that's hard to tell from a distance.

[@alexscolavino1566]

You have to do more videos you do an excellent job explaining things keep up the good work

[@LordVader1094]

I honestly like how my miniatures look when I finish with a wash and highlight by drybrushing.

[@rodneycox1476]

But you are not finishing with a wash. You are finishing with drybrush highlights...

[@LordVader1094]

Rodney Cox I was talking about two separate cases. I don't use a wash and THEN drybrush. Lol

[@highmarshalhelbrecht4715]

if you "Finish" with a dry brush your model is most definatley nor fineshed.

[@ahmedhussein4675]

hi its my first time see you vid so what is the best brush can you plz link for good one

[@stevesandford8993]

I find you SO ENTERTAINING!!! (You are OF COURSE a BRILLIANT painter!!!) But I love your ENTHUSIASM and your PASSION for the craft!!! You're a JOY to watch work! (I've been mini-painting for MORE YEARS than you've been alive but I've learned stuff from watching your videos!) Because of YOU I'm trying out INK WASHES!!! (It's working!!!) I don't know if you know this, BUT, there is a CHRISTIE B drinking game among your viewers? (Basically, every time you say, 'Iraqui Sand' you have to take a Tequila Shot!!!) That's kind of a fun drinking game but I gotta say it can SCREW with your painting!!! (That was a JOKE!!!) xx SF

[@wssmagazine]

+Steve Sandford I guess I DO use Iraqi Sand quite a bit. Probably German Cam. Black Brown would win out though and you'd be passed out on the floor if you used that one...

[@stevesandford8993]

+Wargames, Soldiers and Strategy *LAUGHS!!!* xx SF

[@Oblomovrising]

Please come back I'm in love with you ! 😊

[@rustedbeetle]

Lower quality brushes will amplify your inconsistencies. Skill can compensate, do some degree, for a lesser quality brush, but without a high level of skill, the brush will under preform and possibly end up being just detrimental to your effort.

[@wssmagazine]

+rustedbeetle Absolutely true. I saw someone somewhere use the quip: "You can't get to heaven without a series seven". Maybe not THAT bad, but even for a good painter, if you want to reach that top 1% in quality, a good brush makes all the difference.

[@codierobb9676]

+Wargames, Soldiers and Strategy I'm not very good on accents:)

[@codelicious6590]

The best brush in the world will never make you a better painter- practice will. Hobby Lobby carries a few decent brushes too, not the ones in the multi packs but some of the individually sold ones.

[@miniaturepainter7086]

can i ask what camera you use please

[@Docleegb]

Is this channel still active? I love your content, just wish there were more and newer vids.

[@nikkibaugher542]

Good things we should all think about.

[@nlahblahblah]

Great informational video. Subscribed

[@vanthspiritwalker]

I think you forgot to mention the absolute n.1 mistake that people do, which is not painting their miniatures at all. It does not matter whether you are a novice or a veteran painter, by all means paint your minis: your skills will get better with time and your gaming experience will be infinitely better. Or, if you do not have the time, have them painted by a professional, but don't play with bare metal or plastic...

[@wssmagazine]

+Vanth SpiritWalker Very good point! You have to keep trying!!!

[@Sorrowdusk]

+Vanth SpiritWalker So many people at my FLGS do not paint anything.

[@georgehiotis]

14 Euro per brush? Sounds to me like the Europeans use a 1:1 ratio in pricing their goods and the actual exchange rate when counting their savings, but you are right. Good brushes = good painting.

[@CharleswoodSpudzyofficial]

I like to make my own wash with cheap apple barrel paint. Works well enough

[@weaponizedham826]

thank you i am new to this whole table top gaming thing i used this to make a list for what i need. also can you make a video on how to start out Table top gaming?

[@weaponizedham826]

I am looking forward to using this Advice on my hero forge miniature! :D

[@nogps1225]

Great information - thanks. Just subscribed.

[@carlhallinon1647]

Great advice , thanks

[@ericsimoneau4818]

as far as splitting goes using cheaper brushes until you learn NOT to put paint near the ferral is not a bad idea haha. Once you have that down then buy good brushes

[@bbblackwell]

Omg, googly-eyed miniatures are the worst! hahaha I almost never paint eyes. If you saw a person at a distance sufficient for them to appear the size of a mini, you would never expect to see their eyes. Unless it's a cartoony/anime sculpt, it usually just looks bizarre and ridiculous, imho.

[@samsowden]

drybrushing is great, so few people do it properly though.

[@wssmagazine]

Pretty much every painting technique has its place and can look great, when done properly, I agree!. Drybrushing just happens to be one of those things that seems to get abused and misused by a lot of people (and especially beginning painters), so I felt like it was worth addressing here.

[@CharleswoodSpudzyofficial]

Is it possible to dry brush small figures? I see the results on larger miniatures and they turn out great, but it seems like it's only useful for base coating and highlighting when it comes to smaller models....

[@zenitslav]

great video, I guess it's time for me to buy some new brushes :)

[@bleedinggumsroberts3579]

i use a mop to paint vallejo

[@Pedro116092]

great advice here, supper impressed with your skills. I can only wish to have the painting skills you have.

[@johnwayneeverett6263]

HEY YOU HOW R YA......CAN YOU DO ONE ON CONTRAST AND SHADING .....WHITES GRAYS ...FOR MY NAPS....28MM.....I CAN SEND YOU OR BUY AND SEND FROM FRONTRANK .....LET ME KNOW K..

[@CronusandRhea]

W&N'S never held a point so I use Escoda Kolinsky Sable

[@wssmagazine]

+CronusandRhea ZeusandHera Good idea to name an alternative. If it works for you, go for it! :-)

[@xFiebsi]

not painting the eyes is fine for decent minis but eyes a importned ofr great looking minis but also the hardest part...some eyes too ke 1 hour but def worth it gives alot to the mini (sry for crappy englisch)

[@wssmagazine]

I agree, good eyes are always nice to see, but I'd rather have no eyes than badly painted eyes, and the vast majority of them are badly painted. I really think they are pretty much unnecessary unless you are doing competition painting. They otherwise aren't worth the time or bother.

[@dakotamike]

Great tips on actually painting eyes. Using off-white and making sure to make them small is so true. Too much white / too big eyes will make the figure look crazy. However, I will say if the person who painted the eyes likes the way they look, and likes what they do for the model, then that's what is important. Good advice = don't feel obligated to paint eyes; questionable advice = you shouldn't bother to try to paint eyes. Personally, sometimes I paint eyes, and sometimes I don't. It really depends a lot upon the actual model. Some figures are sculpted in a way that lends to painting eyes (discernible eyelids, well-defined socket, ect.) and some don't (just a flat spot where the eyes would be). If a figure has an overhanging brow or helmet, that can have a big impact on what you can get away with. Thanks for making the video, good food for thought!

[@droober0707]

Hi Christy, I really appreciated your painting knowledge and insight. Your narration could stand to be a lot more succinct. In this video, you seem to say each comment twice over, in only slightly different wording. I'll be trying some sable watercolor brushes and the wash method you recommended. Cheers. :-)

[@wcwindom56]

Do you have any videos on painting female flesh, or do you do it the same as the men?

[@wssmagazine]

+wcwindom56 Funny you should say that! My most recent video was on that topic, but I've got a whole playlist you can find on my channel about different ways to paint skin.

[@WulfCorbett]

I hate eyes*. Always have. And I can't get a technique I like either. Just keep trying, I guess... * painting them, that is...

[@wssmagazine]

+WulfCorbett They are a pain. And usually not worth it. ;-)

[@chrisshaw451]

Why bother throwing wash over everything only to block it in leaving it in the crevices, the hands on the dwarf look skeletal way to pale, if that is the effect you want just pin wash the mini. On the dwarves hands after using the wash all you needed to do was highlight the knuckles and other raised areas not block in the whole hand.

[@redgreen09]

welll all sond good to me will try some the thing thanks ;;;;;]]

[@RaritytheDressmaker]

Subscribed!

[@kraftwerkVS]

I sense some kind of tension and anger in your words and expresion

[@Terraborm_Studio]

Too long winded intro.