5 EASY Climbing Hacks to climb harder | Climbing Training Tips

[@RobbiePhillips]

Hey guys, we get so many repeat comments and not all the time in the world to reply to them, so I thought I'd pin this here in reply to them :) I appreciate people will not agree with me, and that's OK, but I certainly don't have time to have a KZbin comment debate on the fact, but I appreciate your opinion nonetheless Comment 1) These aren't HACKS, they're TECHNIQUES! Reply: Sure! Never said they weren't techniques. We used the term hack to describe a technique that could be quickly implemented to make some obvious improvements. Of course honing these techniques would lead to further improvements in them, but I chose these because when I discovered them they made instant gains for me. I have since coached many others who've utilised the same techniques and found them game changers. As to whether you agree with me or not on whether they are hacks or not... let's not argue semantics, it's just a word in a title of a video teaching climbing techniques, hardly offensive language. Comment 2) The Quarter Crimp Causes Injury Reply: Sure! As does Full Crimp, Open Hand, Monos, 2 finger pockets, heel Cams, Heel Hooks and climbing in general.I have personally not found the quarter crimp more injury prone than any other grip types, in fact I've found it less prone than full crimp and marginally more than the open hand, but to satisfy curiosity, I actually utilised the quarter crimp a lot when I had an A2 pulley injury and couldn't crimp... It was the only way I could get a bit more support through my grip without resorting to full crimp. A big part of avoiding injury is conditioning your body to dealing with new stresses. Why does Alex Megos not blow a tendon when he does a one finger pull up? Because his body is conditioned to it. I would recommend anyone tackling new techniques to approach them with due care as anything new could feel awkward or a bit tweaky at first. Comment 3) These are beginner techniques, nothing special about them at all Reply: Cool! You don't have to watch this video and instead get back to climbing your 9c's :) But seriously, these are just techniques I have learned over many years climbing. I personally don't think these should be pigeon holed into beginner category - having been a climbing instructor for many years, my understanding of beginner is basic footwork and body positioning. Anything after that is advanced... and to be honest, there aren't really any secret techniques to climbing hard, just honing the ones you learn as a beginner and taking them to a more advanced level :)

[@KhahroLuna]

i love your respons ! also wanna say I love your energy in the video! thanks for sharing fella! i'm new to this and any advice is welcome... its up for the climbers themselves to experiment with techniques and see which ones work best for them, bodies are so different aswell :-) cheers mate!

[@bigmanbob1098]

Do you know Finlay philps

[@RobbiePhillips]

@@bigmanbob1098 haha yep! Thats my wee smelly nephew :P

[@bigmanbob1098]

@@RobbiePhillips he’s my best friend

[@willpierce9946]

great vid, I will be taking on silence promptly

[@Nimeva]

ngl i pictured a go pro on the foot when hearing heelcam

[@Flippyfloppy007]

Sans

[@Flippyfloppy007]

*same

[@sherrycn1920]

me too

[@fwtalonn]

Same

[@aleksandrs4760]

Same

[@spacescienceguy]

I'm new to climbing, but my perspective on kneebars would be that banning or shunning a specific move would be a very inorganic way of going about things. It would be like saying 'dynoing is cheating because you have zero points of contact on the wall'.

[@RobbiePhillips]

Yeah, I’d agree! I think the kneebar Dillema wasn’t the kneebar itself, but more the use of the kneepad I.e. bringing in a new piece of gear into climbing that original ascensionists of certain climbs didn’t use and therefore it was harder

[@spacescienceguy]

@@RobbiePhillips Ah that makes sense!

[@themurderofcoke]

@@RobbiePhillipsthat point falls entirely flat when you account for shoes. I get where it logic comes from but if that’s the argument one uses, they better be wearing leather boots up the wall or 30+ year old shoes, nothing in the last decade. How is a knee pad different from a cloth or carpet wrapped around your leg? I guess we can’t use crack climbing gloves either, might as well go tape less while we’re at it! Basically anyone who actually thinks this should be ignored because they’re either just trying to be a purist, or they haven’t actually examined that idea at all. Climb the way you want.

[@cameronlane111]

This is literally like 3 years of trial and error condensed into a 15 minute video. Props.

[@131CE]

I brushed a boulder last year with a big dyno, i have probably tried it a hundred times and never been able to stick it. Sent it the session after watching this. Thanks a lot! And congrats on the 10k, to be honest I’m surprised you don’t have 100k. Love the videos! Keep it up!

[@savethesnails9608]

how has it been up for a year

[@elenafeder3923]

@@savethesnails9608 maybe outdoors

[@festenzurius7454]

@@savethesnails9608 Some gyms don't do resets for over a year, like mine. It could also be a spray wall, again, like mine

[@korraang6941]

the "kneebar-bar-bar" Wicked lmfaoooo

[@RobbiePhillips]

Haha 😂

[@BomberBeta]

I have to say the "quarter crimp" is very interesting. I appreciate channels on here that actually have unique ideas focused on climbing harder. Well done Robbie!

[@RobbiePhillips]

No worries dude :) Glad you enjoyed it!

[@cw7469]

Thanks for the video - it's definitely worth thinking on. I've a couple of hacks I've been shown, too. 1. On a very narrow (two-finger) edge, you can mush your index finger and ring finger together on the hold, with your middle finger bearing down on top of these. This allows you to pull with three fingers instead of two! I've a feeling it works better on slabs and walls than steeper ground. 2. It's fairly well known, but if you can get a heel on a hold, bring it to your crotch and sit on it, you can manufacture a hands off rest pretty much anywhere except really steep ground. This one does take practice: both to trust it, and to see all the opportunities for it. 3. Even where you don't quite manage a heel-cam, turning your foot down and out whilst you're heelhooking (i.e. as RP does whilst heel camming) seems to allow you to engage your muscles better and really pull with heel hooks - compared to foot vertical/toes up. Happy climbing!

[@agatssu1111]

I have been climbing for a bit more than a year now, and did my first 7A last week. I’m super keen on learning new things, and this video gave a lot of new ideas. Thank you ! 💜

[@RobbiePhillips]

Woop 🙌 glad it helped!

[@danflak6363]

I paused after the "Quarter Crimp." Walked over to my Hangboard and gave it a go.... Very interesting.

[@RobbiePhillips]

Yep! As I said above in one of the comments, for me it’s the easiest grip type for use on a campus board on small edges (that’s how i discovered it). Since then it’s implementation in real climbing has been non-stop.

[@danflak6363]

@@RobbiePhillips Yeah that's very cool. I also have a slightly tweaky finger, and noticed a decent reduction in aggravation when using the quarter rather then half crimp. I will definitely be experimenting with this one for a while, cheers for the advice :)

[@RobbiePhillips]

No problem 🙂

[@tobiassarnow495]

i'm astonished how well this works

[@wenkeli1409]

Putting that thumb to good use! Definitely gonna try that out.

[@mihkelhint]

I thought this was probably gonna be a silly joke video, but these are like actual legit cool tips :D

[@RobbiePhillips]

Nope. It’s defo all legit! 🙂

[@reedmelicher8658]

This is exactly the type of video I need. An in depth break down of technique. Heck, I'd watch a 10 minute video dedicated to one specific movement.

[@RobbiePhillips]

We’ve got more on the way very soon! 👊😃

[@natehochuli6457]

I came here like yeah I’ve been climbing for a while... there no way a “hack video” would hold any legitimacy. I was pleasantly surprised:)

[@RobbiePhillips]

Awesome! We'll have more videos like this coming out soon so stay tuned :D

[@chickenspy1854]

The vice-grip is gonna be a game changer for me! Thanks! I am proud to say that I figured out the dyno-hack on my own. I thought it was the beta for one dyno problem I did and just kept using for all the ones I did after that. haha

[@RobbiePhillips]

YES! :D Glad it helped dude and nice work on the dynos!

[@nigelpearson1403]

wow this was incredibly useful. i have been climbing for years and you covered things i didnt know about.

[@RobbiePhillips]

🙌 youd be surprised how many pro climbers I’ve met who’d never used some of these... these are the tricks you learn when you’re not strong enough to pull through the hard moves 😅

[@brendan.perdue]

It seems like the quarter crimp is less about generating more force through your fingers and more about changing your wrist posture to make your flexion muscles function more efficiently. Normally you would rely entirely on your extensors to bring your wrist back into the cocked position given by a quarter crimp. This would not be possible (or at least very difficult) with an open hand or similar grip type due to the angle at which your extensors are forced to operate, which is why a relatively higher shoulder and elbow are necessary for a full crimp. With the quarter crimp you are able to gain much of the increased firing power from a cocked back wrist similar to crimping without sacrificing reach length, energy to extensor use and friction/pulling direction.

[@RobbiePhillips]

Thats a very good point! I think it also does provide more support through the index finger, not just the position of the wrist. I've also found I am stronger in certain pockets if I cock my wrist up a bit - sometimes seems a bit weird to engage but when it works it WORKS WELL! :)

[@johndoh1000]

This video was actually surprisingly dense with great climbing information that I don’t hear from other climbing sources. Thank you so much, I will definitely recommend when possible!

[@bangmind]

Great hacks! Pleasantly surprised to learn new things. As a return, i offer you my secret crimp: "the 5/8 full crimp"! As the name suggest, it is is half full crimp, half quater crimp and works like a charm for slots. Basically, bended 4 fingers as from full crimp, but the thumb is not next to the nail of the index finger (as it is blocked from the slot) but instead on the second pad.

[@RobbiePhillips]

Yes!!! Share the knowledge! I’ve definitely used this grip before in similar situations, but still found the 1/4 crimp easier (for me), but pretty sure relative finger lengths will have some part to play in this.

[@JenniferLangen]

oooooh love a crinch!!! pinches are not my strongest suit and i feel like maybe i can hack them a little bit better now!

[@RobbiePhillips]

Nice one! Everyone loves a good crinch! 😂

[@adriansalas3951]

Like the ideas shared in these climbing techniques. If I may I would like to add a little explanation on how these "hacks" work. So the biggest thing in how any foot beta works is how much weight you can get on the foot, preferably in the toe but were talking heels here. In a heel hook/cam the more you point the toe down your knee will eventually lift and then start rock over the foot, and a very good heel hook/cam your hips will rise up all bringing more weight on to the foot itself. And we all know that climbing starts with the feet. You can see a little example of this at 1:33 in this clip as Robbie sets in his cam. Bringing the hips up would even further the goodness of a heel hook, but ultimately if you can use your toe its better as you do not have to do two extra steps to get the weight back on the toe for the next sequence. Heel hooks can sometimes be the only option in situations where the only foot option is well above the hips in a zone limited by flexibility, or even around an arete were you are trying to prevent a barn door. Also great for clipping and resting, but if at all possible USE YOUR TOES! Using the toe will allow for more pivot allowing you to twist and turn on the wall, along with give you at least your hands length of reach. The next tip given in here that can be further explained is the order of operations given in the dyno. This however can be applied to most movements in climbing. As you climb you want to move in J like motions, moving horizontally first bringing you beneath the target grip and your weight onto your feet. Once you have your weight on your feet you can then use the might of your legs to push you upwards to the target grip. Always Always Always think J motions dynamic or static... unless campus climbing which you do not use your feet so it just can not be applied the same way. Some movements will be more subtle then others but if you try hard to see it, the J is there. Watch the hips of someone who knows what they are doing at your local Gym/Crag. Example shown in the diagram given at 12:51 The hand beta is pretty on point here. I will say though that as mentioned the open hand crimp is the weakest of the crimps, which is way when training you want to go with the open hand crimp. Work at what you suck at to get stronger. Also using an open hand crimp will ensure that your tendons are as straight as the can be when hanging all that weight on the fingers promoting less chance of injurie. Training this way will allow you to train longer and even though you are not specifically training the full or half crimp, your over all crimp will get stronger. So when you do use the other types of crimps given they will have developed just as nicely and you will have built up proper finger strength in all your fingers! Sorry if this was a long read but knowing the reasons why and how we use these different betas might help to focus and dial things in. Don't know if there has been a Knee bar clip yet but lets see it, WOOOOT! Happy sending my fellow rock people.

[@NowUrJustIncoherent]

As a beginner I call this a very welcome explanation. These points probably saved me some possible injuries and most probably gave me more effective gym time 😁

[@ongon6813]

Every single thing in this video other than the knee bar is something that I instantly know what problems in my local gym I can use them to help me on.

[@RobbiePhillips]

Woop woop 🙌

[@marshmallowmann20]

gonna implement your heel technique more into my climbing session next time, seems like good advice and I'm pretty sure I'm underusing it a lot even though it can be a massive advantage especially for heavier climbers like myself

[@RobbiePhillips]

Awesome! Honestly that heel technique has helped me loads. Also, we have a video out tomorrow (Monday) where I talk about another heel technique that’s also been really useful over the years, so be sure to check that out 👊😁

[@FrozenThai]

Some new tricks to try out! I remember at first, I tried using a lot of power with my arms as well and didn't get quite as far, so definitely rely on those legs. And I have found personally that jumping with pretty straight arms as a pendulum can work quite well. It seems like it gives a slightly inwards angle and more clearance from the wall and other holds to smack into. worked for my friends too.

[@RobbiePhillips]

Nice one! Yeah I don’t think there is one way to dyno, but lots of trick and techniques for different types of dynos. For sure your pendulum dyno is great, especially for overhangs!

[@lucagerhardt9839]

I actually did a knee scam on a problem starting with a overhang into a far-away hold the other day. I could not reach it, without falling straight down, because I am a new and pretty weak climber. Just having that extra power to hold myself while reaching out for the hold did an amazing job.

[@RobbiePhillips]

Awesome dude! So glad the technique helped :)

[@baleka5826]

Thank you for the nice contents. I have one remark to the quarter crimp: it might help if you already are advanced in climbing, meaning already intensely and specifically training your fingers for at least 2-3 years. For beginners, the slight twist and increased pressure it gives on the index finger's joints are quite injury-prone (to capsulars, pulleys). Also, when using this in a project at one's limit and one tries to fire off this grip would again multiply the stress on your index finger. Anyway, it is a nice tool in your mentioned occasions. Thx and climb on! :)

[@nathanthompson6763]

I’m new to climbing and I have really long thumbs and fingers. I’ve been using that quarter crimp without even knowing it had a name. Its been helping me through my improving grip strength. This video immediately helped me think through movements, thanks!

[@LeonYuL]

thanks mate, my friend just taught me the heelcam which I didn't get at first and you just explained it perfectly, also quarter crimp is what I needed because I have big hands

[@RobbiePhillips]

Glad it helped dude! Every little bit helps in this crazy sport :P

[@gyukitar]

One of the best video to learn how to reach to the next level... I’ll definitely try those hacks!! Many thanks!

[@climbfun9942]

sounds useful. some of it i used. tonight i l try quartercrimp and pinch. Thanks a lot!

[@jamescheetham6394]

Way more useful than I was expecting

[@RobbiePhillips]

Glad to hear that! :D

[@muumarlin1731]

This is gold. Genuinely great hacks. Thank you! Stoked to try the 1/4 crimp.

[@jonkrause6714]

Crinch & Dyno seem most relevant hacks me now and thanks for hacks that don’t require insane training. I place my thumb near my hand in open crimp, so now will to place over top. I definitely don’t ever do closed crimp, so need something instant and natural. I’ve been doing a lot of dynos wrong in past few weeks or really my whole time-except maybe a few times. Now to practice. 🤘

[@drageoksllechtim2078]

Most people would call these “techniques” and not “hacks” but yknow Modern vernacular stuff

[@kluks1]

it's just clickbait, these are common techniques used by almost every climber, he sounds like an idiot explaining these things as "hacks"

[@peterhammer6915]

@@kluks1 I have climbed 25 years and never used the quarter crimp. Also no top climber I know uses it. So please dont give me this story "used by almost every climber". You sound like an idiot. Also Robbies explaining of the dyno was simplicity in its purest form.

[@colesmith7230]

Right

[@ejrod0]

HaCkEddd! !!!

[@dirgesecilkuran1546]

He is like annoying youtube commercials. “with these hacks you can play guitar like a pro in 10 minutes”.. moving on..

[@ardahatunoglu]

kneebar pokemon was really unexpected, made me laugh quite hard!=D=D knee bar bar bara bar bar bar

[@RobbiePhillips]

HAHA! Glad you liked that and it wasn’t just me that found it funny 😂

[@Lilacleaf49065]

Helpful tips thanks. I've always used my knee and had no idea people didn't like it, but it feels really natural!

[@pinnacleheadoffice630]

Not often I see techniques I hadn’t considered. Great video Robbie!

[@RobbiePhillips]

Thanks man! Glad I can teach you of all folks some new tricks :)

[@Ageipolis1]

what a great HacksTips bro. thanks for sharing you guys... I´m gonna improve with Vice Grip and Quarter Crimp. Love u!

[@isaacacosta9748]

The quarter crimp will be quite useful for me, my open hand is actually my strongest crimp type and the addition of the thumb will hopefully add the feeling of security i get from a closed crimp since i often feel i can pop at any second with an open hand even though i know its strong

[@RobbiePhillips]

Yeah man! That’s the beauty of the 1/4 crimp - provides a bit of extra security for the open hand lovers 😉👍

[@rotisserieprotocol3582]

So I often climb ladders, and I understand that rock climbing and ladder climbing are completely different. However, I just learned I use the Heel Hook method to secure my legs on ladders often and that blows me away. Definitely makes you feel more secure.

[@ryans724]

Aside from the dyno technique all of this was new to me (well except kneebar but this was a good reminder not to sleep on it). I’m a very new climber and I’ve been struggling with some v4 and v5 boulders involving crimps and heel hooks specifically. This video was a godsend for real

[@yomi7105]

I think I was using them (not the quarter crimp, totally new) but not in a mindful way, so focusing on these will definitely help me improve

[@RobbiePhillips]

That’s good that you were doing it intuitively :) But becoming mindful of these techniques will certainly help you apply them in more situations

[@callumchater9750]

That dyno hack was really useful, been struggling at those for ages

[@RobbiePhillips]

🙌 May you have many successful flights!

[@callumchater9750]

@@RobbiePhillips thanks i hope so

[@mikomiko993]

Amazing, my grip has never been so strong before. Specially my left hand's grip.

[@masterelko320]

Wow, the quarter crimp is so cool, never thought about using the thumb while holding openhanded. Hope I'll remember this tip during my next climb.

[@RobbiePhillips]

It’s helped me so much! Good luck dude

[@sgiacomel]

This is really helpful! I would love to see more of this stuff but I guess there are only so many hacks you can teach before going back into the obvious! Thanks a lot

[@RobbiePhillips]

True... but I have many more to share. This buddy was actually only aimed at technical hacks, so I’ve got plenty more tactical ones, mental ones and even more technical hacks that I’d be happy to make more videos of in future.

[@joshch1967]

@@RobbiePhillips I would love more technical hacks! Mindset, climbing exercises, and what to eat/drink before climbing would be great as well!

[@RobbiePhillips]

We’re on it!

[@TsvetanVassilev]

The part of the video with the example of the jump is it from Boulderbar Vienna? Good video, mate :) Thanks for the tips :)

[@RobbiePhillips]

Honestly I've no idea :P I think that clip was something Culann scavenged of the internet for an example

[@ontheballcity71]

That was gold - can't wait to try these. Shame it's raining, otherwise my garden woody would get some use now.

[@RobbiePhillips]

Pray for some good weather!!! 🙏

[@RossPotts]

Hell YEAH, I’d love to see a kneebar video. Mainly I want to see how to ID a good candidate for a kneebar.

[@RobbiePhillips]

Kneebars have been called for by so many folk - were definitely going to be doing one!

[@MassimoDoherty]

Amazing video ! I’ve been climbing for years and I’ve never even heard about the quarter crimp, can’t wait to give it a try tomorrow

[@RobbiePhillips]

Yeah, it definitely has its uses! Enjoy :)

[@peter9011]

all im sayin is that quarter crimp thing hes on about did bits for me the other day, only works in really specific holds but is really solid when its there

[@Mizelipha]

great vid! a demo on the Dyno would have been useful. (side question: wearing a cap indoor... why??)

[@jasonkim3179]

Great explanation on the dyno hack def helps with decreasing distances thanks for the great video :)

[@Kingofkittens1]

Didn’t know there were so many rock climbing vids on KZbin! Thanks for these epic tips!

[@pbamma]

Very good breakdown. All of these are very well described.

[@niklasb6849]

Usually, I climb v5, but after these 5 hacks, i just sent Burden of Dreams! Thanks a ton, Robbie ;-). Loved the vid!

[@RobbiePhillips]

Hahaha! First repeat - downgrade?

[@niklasb6849]

@@RobbiePhillips Why should I? To deplete my new found EGO? Upgrade I say, at least 10A! But maybe these tricks are aid, so first aid-ascent of Burden of Dreams?

[@mixcrimpcunningham4535]

Knee Bars!! Hell Yes!!! Great video as always. 👍

[@RobbiePhillips]

🙌

[@osmark86]

my dynos suck so bad, so really happy about that last tip :)

[@Jordan-ot3ww]

Fantastic vid, looking forward to trying these techniques out, found your channel through your epic Edinburgh bridge crack climb!

[@RobbiePhillips]

Thanks Steve! haha yeah the bridge video was epic :D More of that coming soon!

[@Jordan-ot3ww]

@@RobbiePhillips sounds awesome, thanks for replying

[@jamesbos3841]

cant wait to get back to the gyms and implement these hacks. mega

[@RobbiePhillips]

🙌 Let me know how it goes 🙂

[@DziadekPiorun]

I can add one thing: It may seem funny, but if you have a bigger belly, you can use it as a 3rd hand. It may hurt, but helps me sometimes when I get pumped out and gives some time to think about... matter of life or so. When I used it for the first time, everyone was laughing, but they told me it was a clever move as well. So, try to make what it seems as flaw of your body into a merit :). How to do that? Just hang your belly on the bigger grip. It can't be used everywhere but it may help in some cases :D. Cheers!

[@RobbiePhillips]

HAHAHA! Brilliant! We’ll have to do a video on this. What’s the best strategy for achieving optimal sized belly?

[@DziadekPiorun]

@@RobbiePhillips Hahaha! Well, the strategy is not too healthy I must add. I live in Poland and I have serious relation with our regional (Silesian) kitchen. It gives a huge energy impact to me, so I train on gym and on the rocks also. But this love to Silesian kitchen is too big and I just eat more than needed. That is my weakness. And so, there we have a bigger belly, "The 3rd hand", wich can help but also gives you something extra to carry, so it is harder, when you go climbing ;). From what I observe, a propper technique can reduce this problem to minimum, but I need to rest longer than my slim climbing firends. So, why I just don't loose fat? I did. But you know... The Silesian kitchen! Yummy!

[@andreavera2069]

Knee bar lover !! Go go go video of knee bars !!!

[@ChungXlan]

The crimp position is determined by the angle of the PIP joint, regardless the use of the thumb. (Although most of the time a full crimp is helped by the thumb locked above) What you've mentioned about the quarter crimp is basically a half crimp with thumb, or what some people called a closed crimp.

[@RobbiePhillips]

Nope it’s different. It feels very different to a half crimp, a full crimp and an open hand and has different effects on the loading of the forearm

[@titouanallain2008]

I always use the quarter crimp since I climb in France a lot of person use that but this is good to share this in vidéo 👍

[@RobbiePhillips]

Good to hear the French are using all the grip types too 🙂 🇫🇷

[@jonnes__4657]

🐲 Okay: I intuitively use the "quater crimp" at hard crimpy routes. That I learned at the hang board. I just tried different methods. And this kind of crimp is really efficient and strong. .

[@py2706]

Thanks brotha. This video was worth a subscribe.

[@RobbiePhillips]

Thanks man!

[@jimmy8377]

Quarter crimp and dyno hack are interesting. It seems to me that as the wall becomes steeper, you need to transition from pulling in with your arms to having straight arms and pulling up.

[@Geoffreyg41]

Brilliant video. Thank you mate.

[@Fallkhar]

That quarter crimp thing is actually very cool.

[@christinegerard4974]

Thank you so much ! it is extremely interesting and I need all those hacks ! Thanks,thanks,thanks...from France

[@yinianlai5295]

I'm not sure what this video is to those experienced / pro climbers. But being a newbie climber, I think this inspiring and useful. Altho my thumbs are as short as peanuts.

[@sevs802]

Might not be a true hack, but when smearing it really helps to get as much rubber as possible on the rock and the key is to really focus on dropping your heel as low as possible. So, maybe the hack is heel drop :). Ive noticed a lot of new climbers struggling with slab problems because they don’t understand how to get the most friction on the surface.

[@RobbiePhillips]

That’s a great tip 👍 I think it’s something every climber needs to remember, I even forget it from time to time. It’s also very common when stressed to push through the toes and raise the heels - hard to force when you’re on a long runout on bad feet! 😬

[@lylefarver5679]

Cool video! Good info. I think the points could be covered in much less time

[@jerryspring4045]

Nice video I enjoyed that. Another one maybe for moving up statically to poor handhold... Get a heel onto a reasonably high hold right in against the wall but also lever into the wall with the inside of the foot big toe and even inside knee hard against the wall also sucking in the hips to the wall.. Then I can reach up quite comfortably when otherwise I would be lunging

[@Jason-gt2kx]

Great tips. I knew about knee bars, but I didn't know the old school climbers frown upon them. Interesting to learn some of the social aspects of hard core climbers.

[@tblends]

1/4 crimp...nice one. Never thought about that!

[@dark-o]

Awesome video. Great hacks. Very solid points for improvement. Took me a while to start using the proper heelhooking. It's a real game changer. As for the 1/4 crimp, I'll definitelly give it a try and experiment a bit. When using the thumb, it is very obvious on other open grips that it gives better grip options. Never used it this way :) As for the pinch crimp, the similar approach works on slopers as well.

[@RobbiePhillips]

Darko Naumoski yeah totally! I remember learning the vice grip because I struggle a lot on slopers and then found that if I didn’t try to hog the whole sloper and pinched the edge, for many it was easier 👍 As for 1/4 crimp - it’s one of those that you’ve got to play about with and keep in the back of your mind. So often I’ve forgotten about it when working a project, then remembered and sent next go! It’s a wild grip type that I’ve not seen used by anyone but me, but then below there’s a comment saying Ondra uses it (of course! He’s the master 🙏😌)

[@SuperBlindKid]

Really good things to think about. Been climbing for 2 years and really found this useful. I'm sure I've done quarter crimps , but it wouldn't be a conscious decision :)

[@RobbiePhillips]

Awesome! Glad you enjoyed the vid :)

[@MrChaluliss]

One does not simply quarter crimp subconsciously. There is no hold more sophisticated than the quarter crimp. A true S tier hand position.

[@Aydn999]

wow the crimp move helped my finger, thumb on pointer all day

[@simonavarrobria8825]

Super usefull! I couldn't imagine that the content was super triccky!

[@RobbiePhillips]

Brilliant :) glad it was helpful

[@iconoclastvii]

Just as a guy with sensitive ears, is it possible to get less variance between talking and your music/cutaways? 👍 Really liked the tips. As a larger climber I am always looking for ways to take the pressure off my grip

[@RobbiePhillips]

Sorry about the music/talking Chris - we’ll try watch out for this in future. Cheers 🍻

[@davidlilly6513]

Hey thanks for that Robbie, been putting the quarter crimp to good use on my long vertical traverse wall; really helped a lot with extending my finger and forearm endurance throughout the challenge.

[@RobbiePhillips]

Brilliant David!!! Psyched to come have a shot on that soon - and a catch up with you and a Pauline

[@krutogge]

Nice tips man, gonna try them out.

[@RobbiePhillips]

Good luck 😉

[@richardskrivanek2304]

One point to dino hack, dont focus on hold what you are juamping to it but to the hold up to it. It gives you more moral power to the jump

[@RobbiePhillips]

Good wee mental tip there dude 👊😉

[@rasenmaher9629]

Awesome actually stuff I haven't seen before

[@RobbiePhillips]

Brilliant! That’s good to hear :D

[@francescoberna665]

Love your supertopsecrethaks brother props

[@FelishaWild]

You forgot tip #6, " Ask yourself, 'what would Robbie do?'" :) Great tips BTW I actually found a knee bar today so really stoked about that.

[@RobbiePhillips]

HAHAHA! In a climbing context that might stand up, but in real life that might not be good idea 😂 Great work! Once you start with the kneebars you start finding them everywhere!!! I've got a bit of a reputation back home for it 😂 I always find them where others don;'t see... It's my 6th Sense!

[@jackwood3718]

Omg these help so much please provide us some more

[@RobbiePhillips]

WOOP! 🙌 More on the way!

[@ramieres85]

I gotta say i was sceptical when i read the title but those were actually some good tips.

[@raideno4488]

Hey as a small teen like barely 5ft, there is an overhang section where I can't reach and I would like to ask if that dyno tip will still apply, much love and this video has helped me out and u earned a sub :)

[@RobbiePhillips]

Hey, sorry for the slow reply! I think it depends on the move, but utilising momentum is certainly key for all climbers (especially smaller climbers) for making bigger moves. It might not always be a dyno, but could be what we call a dead point (a big dynamic move)

[@txelcat]

I'm gonna be using that quarter crimp first thing on my training tomorrow! Also, are you placing your thumb on the knuckle, or just below it? And finally, do you notice extra strain on your index finger by quarter crimping? Thanks for the video, man! really enjoyed it :)

[@RobbiePhillips]

Below the knuckle. So the thumb goes to the side of the index, I can’t wrap it over, it just kind of tucks on and provides a little extra support. As for strain, it will do but I don’t think it’s as intense as full crimp in my experience of using it.

[@txelcat]

@@RobbiePhillips nice, thanks for the reply! :)

[@alexshawwest]

Quarter crimp 🤯

[@RobbiePhillips]

Alex Shaw haha! I know 😂 It’s a weird one. I actually discovered it whilst campus boarding - it was the easiest way for me to do 1-4-7, then I started implementing it into actual climbing to great success!

[@mikerockell8590]

Canna wait to try the quarter crimp. I’m either full crimp or open but the half is diabolical.

[@vitkopecky7583]

@@RobbiePhillips In my opinion it is just a way, how to make external rotation of the shoulder without focus on that fact. That is great actually!!! Because external rotation is what you need for more efficient and healthy climbing. It helps connect the entire muscle chain. I stopped the video, tried on my beastmaker and confirmed that fact to me. You must have really good connection with your body, when you discovered it by yourself. Thank you for that, i guess that I will use it :)

[@RobbiePhillips]

Hey man, can you explain what you mean :) Sounds really interesting but I'm not sure I follow what you're getting at. Cheers

[@vitkopecky7583]

@@RobbiePhillips My apologies for my English. I am not a native speaker. Have you seen The Reel Rock series with Adam Ondra? There is a moment, when he speaks about loving his little fingers. (Pinkie) Do the pull-up and focus on your muscles. And after that do another pull-up with pressing to your little fingers edges. (Or use your qurter crimp). I bet, that you will connect different muscles than before. The key (for efficiency) is using whole muscle chain. And it is possible only in correct body settings. External rotation is natural. And pressing to little finger edge helps to set your body correctly.

[@bboyHarrypotter]

holy shit this video is absolutely amazing. legitimate hacks. please make the video on kneebars and kneescums

[@RobbiePhillips]

We’re on it!!! 🙌

[@robertcreer8826]

Will have to try this 1/4 crimp

[@junkquip]

This episode was lit. Give us the kneebar special!!

[@RobbiePhillips]

It's on it's way :D Psyched!!!

[@alvin001122]

The quarter crimp is a very inspiring technique. Would you mind letting us know about the injury history of your index finger after applying quarter crimp please ?

[@RobbiePhillips]

I have never injured my index finger using this grip. Not to say it can’t happen, but it has never felt like a risky grip type to me.

[@boulderfighters2590]

Interesting video Robbie. I will definitely try it out on some problems to see whether it makes a difference. Would you also recommend the "dyno hack" in overhangs? I think there it is a bit more tricky to pull in and then push because you might automatically pull up with your arms. What do you think? Thanks for sharing!

[@RobbiePhillips]

Thanks man! Stick with the quarter crimp - it takes a bit of getting used to, but works well when you need it! As for dynos, there are so many different types of dynos and there is no blanket rule to cover all of them. I would say on steeper dynos it’s certainly less pull in to the wall and more swinging out. In one of the comments a guy linked to Sharma on “Es Pontas” DWS. Watch how he moves and that gives you a good idea for dyno technique on really steep climbs :)

[@boulderfighters2590]

@@RobbiePhillips Thanks a lot! I will check it out and let you know whether I could apply your hacks and whether it made a difference or not.

[@culann483]

Cool , can you use these to climb Everest

[@RobbiePhillips]

You can use these hacks for almost anything

[@123rockjock]

@@RobbiePhillips just crinch your way up it

[@RobbiePhillips]

jess mccaskey that would be a bit crinchy

[@123rockjock]

@@RobbiePhillips fine, just quarter crinch it then.

[@bazwax77]

Who’s the sarcastic Irish man in the comments?.........jeez,give the guy a break.I mean who are you? I bet if you knew him you wouldn’t be so sarcy......😜😜

[@yellownotebooks]

thank you for the timestamps!

[@RobbiePhillips]

No worries

[@bozarus]

Great tips man! I am just not sure if Im gettin heelcam right. Is that the same as heel-toe-lock? And ain't that a dab 1:38 ?;) Can you explain in a lil bit more?

[@RobbiePhillips]

Of course dude! I purposefully didn't say Heel-Toe cam in the video because it is different. The heel cam is when you actually cam only the heel between the edge of the foothold and the wall. It's use is limited to holds that allow it, but when it's used well it makes such a HUGE difference. With a heel toe cam it's going to be generally more secure, but the Heel cam works really well when there isn't a toe to cam against. When placing the heel, tilt your toe outwards and place the heel, then point your toe in and the action of doing that should cam your heel in place. Practice on bigger footholds and work down to smaller and smaller ones. I have managed it on some pretty poor footholds before!

[@josephyoung7564]

Robbie, you’re 100% spot on with the quarter crimp. I call it the chisel. I had to practice with it on the hangboard before I became strong enough to climb with it. It’s a crucial way to grip holds that no one is talking about! Props!

[@RobbiePhillips]

Thanks dude! Yeah, so the chisel I understand is basically the same but without the thumb engaged. I'd never seen anyone using it like that before, but assumed people did but just didn't talk about it. Some folk have mentioned though that Ondra apparently uses it loads so we;'re in good company 👊😜