BMW E46 M54 Engine Blueprinting Part 1 DIY

[@jerryprize7800]

Wow Jason! I am an A&P mechanic with over 20 years of mechanical experience and I am utterly impressed with your ability to teach. I really enjoyed your rendition of Engine wear and how the tolerances increase.

[@50sKid]

Thanks very much!

[@scghost]

im gonna binge watch all the rebuild videos soon

[@danekeeper1]

The cylinder bore M @ 45 deg. is a cool way to determine transfer thrust..What a thorough job....Thanks for making this vid....

[@921aa]

The micrometers are in a free state. They are meant to be loaded slightly when you use them to measure. That will cause the bore gage to read a bit small about .001''. You reading were showing the bore to be slightly smaller that what you said was the factor bore size. I work with gages like this daily.

[@ynebogatov]

Awesome explanations! I've recently done a pretty substantial overhaul job (starter, most cooling components and various vacuum hoses) that involved taking off the intake manifold. I used your "walkthrough" videos as my main guiding instructions. I've no intention of doing an engine rebuild (not yet, anyway), but the quality of your videos is so high that I'm enjoying watching them purely for the educational aspect. Keep it up please! One comment I have (and this doesnt apply to all your videos) is that it would be beneficial to take the time to outline the minimum/recommended set of tools one needs to properly complete the task at hand. You do this already in some videos, but for those of us just starting our DIY careers and still building our tool repertoire, it's often all too easy to get stuck at a certain step that might take you only a few minutes - but becomes next to impossible for someone without the proper tools. Same applies for additional parts (gaskets, sensors, etc) that are a "must change" and thus probably need to be ordered/bought beforehand. I usually watch your videos fully at least once before starting the job, but still found myself missing a trivial part that halted the work for a week. This might save some viewers a lot of frustration :)

[@50sKid]

Yeah sometimes it's hard for me to know ahead of time what tools I'm gonna be using, you know? So I've taken the philosophy of allowing the video to show you what tools you'll need. Maybe it's the teacher in me saying, hey, study up before you take the test! lol

[@weaner232323]

Awesome video, I really appreciate your attention to detail. Thanks for all that you do.

[@RJ4evr]

Good thing I learned micrometers and depth gauges in school

[@maxon887]

Greatest video about rebuild in general to. Defiantly should be more view than 11k

[@robgill48]

Hey thanks for the vids. They have been helpful with my S54 rebuild project.

[@daleyurk4369]

Great video. Thanks for taking the time to do this!

[@claudioferreira6578]

For start well my sunday. Thanks

[@gman3725]

Very good explanation!

[@whitty132]

really enjoyed this video....thanks

[@momo-uz5ft]

it's have 60.000km when I buy it it was brand new and now it's have 160.000 runs smooth as possible

[@RJ4evr]

This is awesome!

[@blackkris9442]

Your videos are brilliant! I think that it will be a good comparision between old rings gap and new. Could you please measure the new piston rings gap before you will install them?

[@50sKid]

Yes of course I will be doing that.

[@pjco217]

Very well thought out and explained! I will watch the rest of the series. Is there a reason you would not buy new pistons and rings if you have taken the engine to this level of disassembly given the known oil consumption issues?

[@mikelm7398]

very interesting !!!

[@wjohnsonism]

Very cool.

[@GigiBeleaDK]

Oh man, you lost me at "inch" :) lol. Pretty instructive and at least I have an idea where to start when I'm gonna do my rebuild. Thanks again for the detailed video. One question I was going to ask : Not possible to change the rings from BENEATH ? Without the need to take off the head. Thinking here : Hey, measured compression and it is good, but might be burning some oil so I only want to change the oil rings... Why not take out the bottom and crank and change the rings by pulling out the pistons. Just an idea. I'm gonna buy an extra engine and split that up and rebuild it anyway as I drive my car daily and kinda need it. Engine swap (when the other is done) is not gonna take more than 1 day with some helping hands.

[@50sKid]

I'm assuming you mean with the engine still in the car, right? Yeah not possible because the flywheel is bolted to the back of the crank and the crank pulley is bolted to the front, so you can't get the crank out. A normal re-ring job is done by removing the head and the oil pan and then unbolting the conrod and popping the pistons out from above. You then use a deglaze hone (flex-hone) to break the glaze on the cylinder so the new rings will seat. The problem is you risk breaking off the little oil-squirters if you go too deep with the hone, plus you risk leaving metal particles behind if you don't clean properly with soap and water (not solvent) and that's the worst thing you can possibly do. I've read in my rebuilding book that you can also use lacquer thinner to break the glaze, which I thought was interesting. I haven't read that anywhere else but there. I've also read a Chevy bulletin for a re-ring job where they don't recommend any glaze breaking at all (probably because too many technicians were leaving honing grit behind and causing comebacks).

[@GigiBeleaDK]

K, that makes sense. Anyway, I will start reading BEFORE I start the job, as you say, I should have my tools and knowledge in order before I start anything. Would be my first total engine rebuild but I've done gaskets before, so I will hopefully not start from 0 :) Planing to change pistons, rings , bearings and everything that can and should be changed, and the block would be honed and measured by a machine shop. As for the honing part, I was thinking to ONLY change the oil rings on the engine I have in the car , no honing on this one. As I said, looking to buy an extra engine and rebuild while I still drive the car, but on the engine I have in the car now, only change the oil rings, so pistons would not come out of the engine 100% , only down to the oil rings. Change them and then push them back in. I don't loose compression, car drives fine, it's just an idea for someone to change the oil rings without pulling head and crank. I hope you understand what I mean. Thanks again for the detailed videos, it is a pleasure to watch and learn. Keep up the good work.

[@martinmartinus4268]

hat off to you sir, you are the legend. I'm enjoying every video as you realy know what you are talking about and also the way how you explain everything is very important. Thank you for making these videos. Just quick question. What was the mileage on that engine,please? thank you

[@50sKid]

Thanks! It had 175k miles.

[@fransleeuwe5429]

awesome... thanx

[@reginaldmorton2162]

good shit, man

[@Raptorman5174]

good info, i got a high mileage 330, it's good to see what I might be in for one day if I ever want to do this. I really want to know what the machine shop is gonna cost

[@50sKid]

$1000

[@joelgarcia6307]

Jason, I use a dial bore gage frequently as I go around my state certifying military mortar tubes. You demonstration was amazing. I have one question. Did u re-zero your gage after each cylinder measurement ?

[@50sKid]

I did not, wasn't aware I needed to be that anal about it?

[@joelgarcia6307]

50sKid maybe you don't . But when using ours we always notice that after measuring a tube it's slightly out of zero.

[@notorious1ace]

@@joelgarcia6307 maybe it's best practice to do that, but like an electricians multimeter tool you do it in the beginning of the job and only do it again if your tool takes a hard knock.

[@jd7896]

How many miles were on your engine before disassembly, and did you drive it hard(if so, how often)? Just curious to see how long it takes/what kind of beating it took before getting to these levels of wear. Thanks so much for all of your videos by the way, they have been absolutely invaluable with doing my own DIY maintenance on my 2000 328i!

[@martinmartinus4268]

Joshua Harris that's a very relevant question. I'm curiouse too

[@scottbrowder4967]

A torque plate would show you what those cylinders really measure with a head bolted on and torqued to spec. Make sure your machinist plans on using one when boring and honing.

[@50sKid]

Hard to find a shop that has one.

[@mcycleserv]

you can buy just one micrometer to measure 0-100mm it is from Mitutoyo ..have one ...now are you going to use Plasti guage for mains and B/E journals for oil clearance ???

[@86andyw]

Good video. Although if bmw dont provide minimal spec for the block then why bother? You’ll never know what the minimum spec is. Your only going by the engine book you have.

[@freelan89]

Your cylinders look ok man, I don't think you need to bore or hone them for that matter.

[@50sKid]

freelan89 what are you basing that assessment on?

[@freelan89]

because you can still see if you look very carefully the factory glazing on the cylinder wall. An worn out cylinder has the surface clear like a mirror from top to bottom. But I can be wrong also, because I'm assuming this from what I can see from the quality of the you tube video.

[@antoniohinojos3808]

Why would you complicate something so simple by converting units to imperial mate?

[@kize32]

those tools cant be trusted. when a set of micrometers cost 100$ you know something is off. did you get the feeler gauges from the ebay too?

[@momo-uz5ft]

can I ask you something I have e46 328i and it's have no problems never heated up can I fix on it a turbo without opining the engine ...... will it damage my engine

[@thomas41546]

You will need to tune it if you get a turbo.

[@momo-uz5ft]

Thomas Smith I don't know what you mean

[@danekeeper1]

you will add air..right? so you will need to add???? fuel ..so a remap...your cylinder pressure goes up your intake pressure increases, your head bolts get to lift, your head gasket needs upgrading, your exhaust, o2's, and on and on ....Go do it, have fun, make a few mistakes, get your hands dirty....

[@momo-uz5ft]

danekeeper1 thanks

[@ironmantooltime]

yo da man

[@jaygovinda723]

What's your Instagram sir? Thank you for all the work!

[@50sKid]

the50skid

[@87Andree]

man its better for me to not measure my engine parts if i want to sleep at night ;) my engine has been driven for 32000 km its m54b22

[@50sKid]

Yeah ignorance is bliss!

[@Dofazi]

You want to be precise and yet you use imperial system. Dios mio

[@50sKid]

Precision doesn't depend on the system you use, it depends on how accurate your tools are.

[@Dofazi]

And that's where you are wrong. Let me give you an example here: if i asked you how much is a meter in imperial units you would say 3 feet right ? well its APPROXIMATELY (key word) 3 feet becasue it's excatly 0,9144...... so yeah, it's like saying The Pi number is 3 when in reality it's 3.141592653589793... I know, maybe when working with such small numbers it doesn't make a world of difference, but the bigger the numbers get the bigger the difference in measurements. All in all i really enjoyed the vid, keep the good content flowing. Cheers :)

[@50sKid]

Lol, no I wouldn't say 3 feet, I would give you the proper conversion using a formula. It doesn't matter what units you use, precision is precision. It all depends on how many decimal places you measure to. For instance, if I had a metric outside micrometer that only measured to 1 decimal place and I measured something at 3.3 millimeters and then used the imperial outside micrometer I have to measure the same thing at 129.9212 inches, the imperial micrometer would be more precise because it can measure to 4 decimal places (the equivalent for that in metric units is 2 decimal places).