57 Austin Healey 100-6 Rest. Pt 3 - Rust Repair

[@chrisarneson8644]

James for some reason I can't reply to your question directly. I love the welder. It's been a real gem. Originally I bought a used Clarke mig that should have been a high quality unit but I really struggled. After reading the reviews and watching videos I bought the Eastwood unit and it's been night and day. At 299 it's a real bargain.

[@JBFromOZ]

Great to see, we have a 100/4 and a 100/6 in the wings so taking all input I can find, thanks for sharing!

[@chrisarneson8644]

That's pretty amazing that you have both cars. I'm jealous. Good luck!

[@JBFromOZ]

Ahh they both need a ton of work, but at least the 100/4 motor is done, everything else is in boxes and the shrouds are in pretty poor shape on both... labour of a lifetime most likely to get them back together I should do a video up of them for my channel, I’ve got some footage of my Bugeye and my Morris minor Ute EV conversion project... that might give you some idea of how “lucky” or crazy stupid I really am heheh

[@aussiemg100]

Well done Chris. Coming along slowly, surely and nicely. Great work. Thanks for the mention, although I'm not sure about the comment on my "craftsmanship", but thanks anyway:-) I didn't quite "get away with it" though. If I were doing it again I would weld in the inner sills and wait to fit the engine before fitting the outer sills. Hindsight is a wonderful thing! A word about the boot floor fitting: it's a good idea to trial fit the rear shroud before you weld in the new floor. That way you're sure it will all go together when you come to rivet it. Keep up the good work Cheers Matthew

[@chrisarneson8644]

matthew randell That's an excellent thought on putting the shroud on before the boot floor. That will be the weekend project. I am still so torn on how to address the sills. My goal has been to get the chassis in paint before summer ends and it gets too cold to paint. That seems like an easily met goal except for the engine being in bits. There is also the not-so-minor problem that I don't really trust my hinges. At least one of them was pretty severely bent. I straightened it so that it matches the other 3 but none of them is really pristine.

[@nd318865]

Chris Arneson What about placing 7, 8 sacks of ? to equal the engine's weight in your effort to do the "sills?" Should be able to jury rig support between the rails to support the (sand bags)

[@nd318865]

James Tennier Sorry, "then at least" tack weld the sills to ensure there proper placement???

[@chrisarneson8644]

Good idea. I like it.

[@aussiemg100]

Chris Arneson Hi Chris yes, the outer sills really need to be right. Did you get the ones with the slight curve along the length? Really, I think it's fairly easy to leave them off and paint the rest of the chassis. No big deal to weld them on later and touch up. You could temporarily pop rivet them in place where you think they should go, paint them then if they are right at the end, drill the rivets out and weld. It still makes for a bit of work. Or you could just risk it. If you are replacing the lower door skins, yo can probably correct the gap then. James' idea of replicating the weight is a good one and I've heard it before, but of course, you would have to have it off the rotisserie. As far as the hinges go, if they were right before then they should fit. It could be that one was bent to make the door fit. They are half aluminium, half steel. At least mine were, so they might break if pushed too far. Good luck Matthew

[@mp330600]

Chris, I am glad to see the progress your making on Lola. I have a 59 3000 on jack stands in my garage down here in Denver. Keep posting and good luck with all your restoration

[@chrisarneson8644]

Wow. That's awesome. I will be at the conclave in Denver in Sept to check out Healeys. Hopefully my chassis will be painted by then.

[@nickferrant6460]

My 58 BN4 had the same caved in front cross member bottom. A convenient place for the jack. An engineer friend of mine suggested putting a web down the length of the member. I cut a slot down the middle alongside of the center line ridge. On the top of the cross member I drilled three holes. I slipped a 1/8th inch piece of flat stock the correct depth of the member and welded the top three holes to center the stock then welded the bottom seam. Now it's stiffened up for me to use as a jacking point.

[@chrisarneson8644]

Interesting idea. I'll have to think about that. Thanks

[@chriswoodin1405]

you might want to look for articles on scuttle shake online or at british car forum it relates to welding bracing around the transmission opening in the firewall to stiffen the area. Also the amount of flex in the chassis is surprisingly large relating to the door openings I got several blood blisters from the door gap closing when leaning my arm on the top of the door while driving until I learned better. When fitting the doors I simulated the weight of the engine and trans. with boxes of heavy metal while supporting the car at the rear axle and front suspension mounts this changed the gap by about 1/2 inch on the top.

[@bernardmauge6628]

Should be 1 mil you have a bad frame

[@Da0001Man]

OMG!!! Looks like you used your flap disk on the sheet metal... Should have used paint stripper, good luck getting the panels smooth and level. Two coats 2k epoxy primer, body work then 2 or 3 coats of high fill and let it cure for a month. The longer the better. Looks good so far, Good luck.

[@chrisarneson8644]

+Da0001Man Nope. I used paint stripper first to take off most of the paint and then used non woven stripping disks on my grinder. The remaining paint was soft by then so it went really easy. I don't think there was any heat buildup. I haven't done the aluminum yet because I wanted to be REALLY careful with it.

[@nd318865]

By way of butting into your fun, (and Matthew's) I spent 2 years redoing "my project" and old friend bought in 1987. A '74 GMC Sprint. I was invited to share my project at the Healey site so pictures are there. www.ahexp.com/members/jtennier#registry I had the metal and paint "done professionally." Did wiring, brakes, replaced all suspension lights gauges etc etc etc, myself. The engine (a 79 OLDS 403 was also done by the "pro?" It failed repeatedly, I sued, lost at arbitration, persevered and finally won at a jury trial. 2 years involved there as well. Now awaiting the finished engine and as the entire car is ready otherwise, just awaiting the 403s coming home. Picture of Porsche 993 above was my admitting that I'd never be able to "do a Healey" It's just too late for me so I "settled" on the Porsche for retirement. It's value will be maintained with any luck. I will continue to follow your progress going forward. Thanks for listening