5R110W, Exception to my rule

In this we look at a 5R110W that stopped moving because of a broken Coast drum. When changing this drum i recommend the aftermarket over the OE drum as it is a much better design. Thanks for watching.

[@jasoncook5307]

Wow the welder totally missed the seam on all 3 tac welds lol

[@agent_talha]

Hi gary i have a ford taurus 2020 and comepelte transmission , new valve body and PCM was replaced and wiring was checked but i get 2 codes that are not going P0752 and P219A the transmission is 8F50 and the car shifts from 1 to 3 without going to 2. If i use a scan tool and do an actuation test on Solenoid A and increase the amps the code appears as soon as i increase the amps. Any advise please

[@GaryFerraro]

what are the definitions of those codes? Where is this car located?

[@agent_talha]

@@GaryFerraro P0752 is “Shift Solenoid A Stuck On.” P07A3 Transmission Friction Element A Stuck On These 2 codes appears Car is located in saudi arabia

[@mikeholmstrom1899]

I understand that there's a CD4E aftermarket drum that is better than OEM part.

[@ryancoakley2796]

U r awsome i always used the best i can get

[@danmcmahon1656]

Re: rear planet on the 62TE, I'm showing it's the same as the 41TE. You couldn't get?

[@GaryFerraro]

no it is not the same, different were the output speed sensor reads

[@tarekadel1473]

Hi I have cde4 solonid Faĺl How. i fix thanks For you

[@GaryFerraro]

The trans mission is a CD4E?

[@TheAmos1]

🤔 I'm in an Internet group of welders... most of the comments are either those learning and are wanting pointers... where I shine... or some pictures of bad welds out in the wild. on occasion, some guy wants advice to weld some kind of auto part... most of us say no... mainly the guy has almost no welding experience and it's usually something critical like steering or a rotted frame. things can be done but can cost in safety. the thing about welding is heat changes the characteristics of the metal... you can make it more brittle. most of the welding is a after market kit or is followed by machine shop work like building up the surface of a block or head. from the look of the welds it wasn't done proper... low power tack welds with no filler, no penetration and just enough fusion to hold for a little while. I get what they done, a bubble gum and bailing wire caliber repair... from my experience has cost me more money than to actually do it right to begin with, doing it that way. it seems like you had a good experience with the aftermarket and from the explanation seems they've engineered and produced a part that addressed the short comings of the OE. great episode 😃👍

[@GaryFerraro]

Thank you, and thank you for the info on welding

[@Sid9397]

Great Video Gary, thanks for sharing !

[@ryancoakley2796]

Its rediculous trying find parts u have b carefull who u use

[@GaryFerraro]

True but this drum i would use over OE

[@frankwrenchman4573]

Good info it used to be aftermarket parts were made with improvements and modifications to make items replaced better but now all aftermarket items are junk .

[@GaryFerraro]

agree on that, this drum however is made very well

[@aircates]

Great stuff as always, Gary. Funny that you mention a 6L80, we have a ‘16 GMC 2500 that is throwing a P0741 for the lockup. I dropped the pan to look for metal but found none and the lockup solenoid is responding to active test. It only has 43K on it and isn’t abused so I have to suspect either a TC issue or something wrong in the hydraulic circuit. Either way it has to come out.

[@GaryFerraro]

Posible converter problem, there known to go bad on this trans

[@aircates]

@@GaryFerraro , that’s what my research of this transmission shows. It just surprised me with such low miles.

[@GaryFerraro]

we see this a lot@@aircates

[@skutahuniai4830]

I would assume you have rebuilt it by now but the 5R110W rebuild would be an informative video.

[@GaryFerraro]

Yes, that was a rush job, it was a Fedex truck, will keep that in mind though

[@skutahuniai4830]

@@GaryFerraro I have heard bad things about these trans as to how fussy they are - pump, oil fill etc.

[@GaryFerraro]

Yes, They are, I have special tools to align the pump and if the pump bushing is good i do not change it, clean all the grounds on the vehicle. Filling it i add 8 quarts, start it for 10seconds, shut it off and add another 8 quarts, then start it and fill it@@skutahuniai4830

[@angkorian2o91]

Hi Gary, recently started following your channel in regards to the 5r110w. I have a puzzler with my 2006 F250 6.0 298k miles that went into a local reputable shop for trans rebuild due to 3-5 slipping. After 46 miles following the rebuild, the trans have reverse but no forward drive when in D321 the trans engages but won't drive forward. In D321 engages and loads up thr engine but just would not drive as if it's binding. The trans shop took it back apart to no luck. They then replaced with a complete sonnax solenoid body and still acts the same. Ordered a used exact same model PCM/TCM, and still acting the same. The trans is now back apart at the same shop for 2 months now. It did not do this before the rebuild. Stock tune btw. Any thoughts you might have? Thank you in advance🙏

[@GaryFerraro]

Did this happen suddenly or was it slipping at first and now no forward?

[@angkorian2o91]

@GaryFerraro Right after the rebuild, I drove the truck home (11miles) and then drove it to work the very next morning (26miles). Within this 37miles on a fresh rebuild, everything was shifting smoothly as it should. I parked the truck for about an hour and after going to drive it again, the trans skipped from 2nd to 5th, stayed at 5th as I'm coasting to pull over, then idle still in 5th. Turned the truck off then back on, go to Drive and it wouldn't go forward. The trans feels engaged to the motor and loading it but would not budge forward without risking frying some clutches. I then called AAA to tow it straight to the shop. Initially dropped the truck off Mar 18th. Got it back March 28th, drove to work and it binded up on March 29th. It has since been back in the same shop and currently being rebuilt again. The owner is also pretty stumped at this point.

[@GaryFerraro]

@@angkorian2o91 wow, should be able to see something i would think. Reverse is good and solid. In Drive you just have the forward clutch and both sprags are holding

[@angkorian2o91]

@GaryFerraro I would think so as well. After towing the truck back, the shop pulled the trans out and said he didn't see anything unusual ( i dont think he got into it) and stated the fluid is still red. Re-installed the trans and no change. He then replaced the solenoid body with a Sonnax kit along with new solenoids (initial rebuild had new OEM EPC and a few other solenoids as well as new internal harness) After the Sonnax body didn't resolve the issue, he thought it may be a command issue calling for two solenoids at the same time. So we sourced a used PCM/TCM with the exact same model number label, and still no luck. As of now, it's back out completely apart, awaiting additional parts. He said he's going to replace the pump along with some other parts (I'm not sure exactly) I've searched forums to no availability. Even considered asking the owner to reach out to Mark Kovalsky (Ford Auto Trans Eng) It's strange to him and wondering if you may have encountered something like this before on a 5r110w

[@GaryFerraro]

@@angkorian2o91 never really had that, forward clutch is fed through a center support bolt, unless something is wrong with the center support, Did he take a pressure reading? Being the fact that is has good reverse, i would think that would eliminate the pump and filter