6.0 Powerstroke high pressure oil system air test

[@22mpb]

Thank you for this video. I have to do this same test on one of these junkers tomorrow.

[@AutomedicGarage]

Hope it helps. I have a good crank no start 6.0 diagnosis video also using it. Check it out.

[@onparfait5921]

glad to see you know what your doing! just subscribed. tons of diy people that put out content that is not as knowledge based. i don’t even have a 6.0 and i watched the whole video. i used to have an 05 and did just what you did and found bad STC fitting and injectors leaking down.

[@AutomedicGarage]

Thanks bud, I try to be interesting and helpful as I can be

[@APGJuggernaut]

Used this video and adapter to check for a leak. I was able to quickly trace it to the passenger side dummy plug. Fixed the issue and starts like a champ...So far😅. The only thing i wish i hadn't wasted time doing was leak checking an empty oil rail after the repair. Hearing the air in the system had me thinking I still had leak when i didn't.

[@AutomedicGarage]

Yea, once there is nothing but air in the system it can throw you off. The system is meant to seal oil pressure not necessarily air so there are things like upper injector seals and nipple cups that will leak a little air but not necessarily leak oil pressure once it’s all under oil pressure like normal.

[@mac150]

8:10 “What the hell is even that” 😂 Perfect use of the meme

[@outdoorsadrenaline]

Got an 03 6.0 around 200k miles. HPOP was replaced by diesel mechanic 2 months ago with oem ford motor craft per mechanic when I broke down out of state and was gonna cost a G to get it towed back to the house. Now I’m back to crank no start. Icp pressure at 397psi, ipr dumping at 84, icp voltage at .23, fcim readings good, low pressure dash gauge reading well. Took out ipr and hooked up air @150 psi and hearing air from oil fill tube and gurgling noises under oil filter. Gotta guess at what might be, what to look for? Fixing to pull passenger side valve cover and see what’s up! Thanks for sharing all that you do your videos are very helpful thank you!!

[@AutomedicGarage]

Did he replace the j tube also? Without hearing the air test myself and it being a 03 with the early style pump I’d say it’s either the pump or the j tube

[@outdoorsadrenaline]

I asked them to replace the orings on the J tube while they were in there but I have a feeling they did not. The air coming through oil fill tube is very faint but present. Gurgling/bubbling under oil filter is what initially got my attention. Thanks for replying back.

[@outdoorsadrenaline]

On my 2003 after hearing air from the driver side valve cover I pulled it off and believe I’ve got some leaks either on the top injector seals and or the nipple cups seals. Upon further examination the ipr screen was punctured I had a big piece of debris lodged in it. I’m going to replace the ipr and see if it will fire over. I’ve never had the hot no start associated with failed injector top orings/seals. The nipple cup on the number 2 injector is fairly loose which said injector had very little oil in it when I pulled the rail. I’m thinking that is where the majority of the air noise was coming from. In the meantime I’m going to order some seal kits and cups, swap the ipr, put it back together and see if it will fire over and pray to the good creator that the hpop I paid to have replaced two months ago is good, the mechanic did what I asked and didn’t cut corners! For anyone reading 6.0’s suck for anyone not working on them for a living I suggest selling it or enjoy working on it! I’m married to mine ha!

[@huronhockey8]

You should do a video on what to look for when buying a used 6.0. What you recommend etc.

[@WhiteTrashMotorsports]

When I test a hot no start I try to get the engine as hot as possible before testing if running it isn't possible at least plug the block heater in overnight before checking.

[@terryslay1]

I didn’t start mine before the air test and then I saw your post about plugging in the block heater. I’m hearing a noise from the oil fill only when it gets plugged into the heater. Unplug and it goes away.

[@WhiteTrashMotorsports]

I'm glad it worked for you. At least you have a starting point now. Mine was leaking at the oil rail tube O-rings. It would start fine cold, but the block heater can get it warm enough to bring out the leak

[@kw5150]

I have an 03 6.0, air pressure testing at the IPR port, and I get bubbling sounds from under the HPOP. I changed the HPOP a few years ago, but I started getting a no start when hot situation recently. I know 03 pumps go bad a lot.

[@AutomedicGarage]

Yea the 03 early 04 pumps get weak. I don’t usually have them give me a crank no start but will usually start but only idle and after a few minutes the oil thins out and they won’t crank till they cool off again.

[@pedrodeanda3707]

Thank you for your video help me a lot

[@AutomedicGarage]

Glad it helped, where was your leak?

[@pedrodeanda3707]

@@AutomedicGarage Is located by the oil pump I need to order some parts and I will fix it thanks a lot for your videos

[@royanguiano2610]

I have a question cause I did this exactly how you did . My vehicle when monitoring live data showed IPC building 1,500 psi extremely fast but my IPR is at 85 so I was having a crank no start. I’ve done this and found that lots of air could be heard and I mean as soon as I opened the valve cause I have the exact same tool which is plugged in the exact same way as yours in this video but your video I don’t hear anything. I isolated the noise and I believe it’s coming from the center where the branch tubing is and the J-Tube an pump is. I really hope my studying is paying off cause I had another truck I couldn’t fix and made me kinda get my hopes down on working on these trucks. See what confused me also was that the first time I did this an exposed the pump I found the pump (aluminum ) not cast iron was leaking air from the front of it. So I replaced it an closed it up an then tested again an saw the new pump was still leaking from the same are on the pump. I did some more research an found that some people say it’s normal that it’s a IPR drain Location. Others say it’s not normal an is a bad pump. So that has left me absolutely confused questioning myself wether I got a Defective new pump or if I did all that labor for nothing. I have yet to solve that mystery an here I am again dealing with another one of these trucks and the air pressure coming out was so much that when applying air that if I put my hand on the opening of the oil side after I removed the fill cap it would push my hand off. My truck is so much louder than yours when applying air unlike yours is when applying air. Please give me an information that you can when reading my paragraph cause man do I need it. I gave up once thinking I couldn’t fix the trucks but I’m trying again..

[@AutomedicGarage]

You will often times have some air, not a lot , leak on the gear side of the aluminum pumps. If your icp is hitting 1500 then your problem isn’t oil pressure unless you have a biased icp sensor. What is the ICP voltage? Should be close to .24 HPOP leak/no starts on 03-04s are usually pump related or possibly a injector oring. 05-06 would more than likely be stand pipes or dummy plugs, or possibly a STC fitting if it hasn’t been updated. It’s also good to check your nipple cups for leaks. The leak in this video was a crank no start hot, so it is harder to hear. Follow the sound of the air, it’ll show you where your leaking but also keep in mind small air leaks like at the top of a injector on the inner oring is normal especially after you already pushed air into the system because it’s supposed to have oil in there which helps it seal up more so than the air in the system.

[@chrismiles992]

Would you be able to hear if a dummy/stand plug was leaking with the valve covers still on? Just curious because I have to do this on my truck.

[@AutomedicGarage]

Yes you should. I listen through oil fill and CCV vent on valve covers to point me in the right direction. Sometimes it is hard to hear and I’ll remove the valve covers to hear better. Thanks for watching.

[@chrismiles992]

@@AutomedicGarage thank you for the response! I took my truck to the dealership to have my oil cooler replaced and they did a whole bunch of other stuff as well. Haven't even had it back for a whole year yet and here I am with a long crank/no hot start. They won't diagnose it for me because they said if it wasn't something they touched, they will have to charge me. Can't win with this truck.

[@bobhagman6474]

I've got a 03 with a 6.0 powerstroke hot all I get is crank no start , cold it takes awhile , after running and go to restart gauge for oil pressure or rpm do not move, I seen on one of your videos you talked about a obd reader that was not too much money, looked on amazon for it and it's unavailable where can I find one of those, like your videos

[@AutomedicGarage]

@@bobhagman6474 there’s another on Amazon, ELM is the brand. It works also, just make sure whichever you buy will work with the forscan app

[@HK-21]

Is it typical for shop air to slowly bleed out of the high pressure oil system while using this method? I went ahead and updated my STC fitting while addressing an EGR cooler failure. No visible or audible leaks within my testing apparatus, or the high-pressure oil system itself. Once shutting off the air valve, I noticed air pressure slowly bleeding off by observing the gauge, 1-2 psi every 5 minutes or so. All fittings within test whip have been doped and tested leak free. The O-ring on the IPR-air fitting has also been verified leak free where it threads into the HPOP.

[@AutomedicGarage]

That is 100% acceptable. The system is designed to hold oil pressure not air so small leaks will be heard at times seeping is acceptable it’s the big leaks that are a problem.

[@HK-21]

🫡 Roger that BiG DoG! Many-many 🙏

[@TheOfficialWickedOne]

Did the air test as in this through the ipr but will this also check the hpop? If no, how do I test it? Thanks!

[@AutomedicGarage]

@@TheOfficialWickedOne yes it checks the hpop

[@patrickwelch620]

Happy Father's Day! If I plug shop air into an IPR test plug would I hear a leak in the HPOP (old one with BB) or does that test adapter only charge the system downstream of the HPOP? Crank no start cold 250psi HP oil. Ran great all day. Went to start it 175psi hot, waited, 250psi next day.

[@AutomedicGarage]

It pressurizes the entire system, through the ipr is the best method because it takes it out of the loop without have to activate or send 12v to the ipr valve for testing. If you have a leak in or at the pump @ the j tube or STC fitting (depending what year and style pump you have you would hear it just not as prominent as if it’s at the rail with the dummy plugs, stand pipes or injector oring. What year truck?

[@patrickwelch620]

@@AutomedicGarage 2004. (Old pump, new oil rails) I followed your video exactly and diagnosed a clogged IPR (not visible to the naked eye) I blew air through it both ways while triggering it with full 12v on and off till if started to click consistently. The truck now starts quicker than it ever did. I am still replacing the valve however... I'll be keeping the spare in the truck. Thanks for these wonderful videos. This is our first diesel and my girl and I are having a lot of fun fixing it up. Wouldn't be as much fun without your videos.

[@AutomedicGarage]

@@patrickwelch620 that’s a real compliment, thanks. And thanks for following us.

[@gtzrg]

can air test be done without turbo and intake? I took mine apart to replace oil cooler

[@AutomedicGarage]

@@gtzrg your air testing Hpo system. Anything that is t part of that doesn’t matter so yes you can with intake and turbo removed

[@angelhuerta8670]

Hello just wanted to know if i was doing a leak test would i have to open the oil cap and the oil filter and the valve covers or could i just listen for an air leak with everything on? I have a 2004 f350 got good icp voltage and 1000 psi on the icp i have ficm sync and 49 volts on the ficm but the ipr was 85% and when i pulled it out it had debris on the screen and i have oil pressure

[@AutomedicGarage]

You can air test with them on but why not pull the oil fill cap and tube going into the CCV? The FICM and air intake are already off anyway to get to the ipr. Your icp is 1000psi while cranking over?

[@MikeWaits-jr7dm]

Hi , i have a 04 f550 6.0 crank no start and i put shop air to the apr and i got air going into the coolant side, what could couse that,? Michael

[@AutomedicGarage]

I’ve honestly never seen that. So your actually pressurizing the coolant system?

[@normanhh3]

Any chance you have an injector o-ring that failed and is leaking air into the coolant passages?

[@thegreener196]

would this work for early 2004 6.0? i have the pain in the a$$ early one thatis hard to get to the ipr and icp. was running great and i shut it down then went to start it and it fired for a split second and now she just cranks and cranks but no start.

[@AutomedicGarage]

Works on all year 7.3 and 6.0s

[@thegreener196]

@@AutomedicGarage well, got my tool and tested and I have a HUGE leak coming from what sounds like the drivers side rear from down under the head/in the block. some kind of hpop failure I'm guessing

[@AutomedicGarage]

@@thegreener196 no bueno, if it’s under the head it’s a branch tube, that is if your has the cast iron pump not the round aluminum. Are you sure it isn’t a nipple cup or stand pipe?

[@spicyalpastor3310]

What's the valve set up? Does anyone have the specs for valves and air set up?

[@AutomedicGarage]

It’s just a valve. If your making one just go buy a ball valve.

[@spicyalpastor3310]

@@AutomedicGarage thank you so much! I'm out of my element here and I've asked this question but no one's given me an answer before on forums. Also, what kind of hose is that? Does it need a specific psi rating? Thanks you in advance!

[@AutomedicGarage]

@@spicyalpastor3310 it’s a hydraulic hose rated way higher than most compressors go to. You can make your own out of some air compressor hose and a ball valve. Only thing special is the ipr adapter

[@revolutionanarchy713]

I just tried this and after about 15 seconds the only place i heard it coming from was where my oil filter is. Shut the air off and took my oil filter cap off and filter out and turned back. Sure enough thats what its coming from. What is that telling me? Any help is much appreciated!!!

[@AutomedicGarage]

That’s in the low pressure side, it doesn’t mean anything cause at that point you’ve evacuated all the oil out of the system. What are your symptoms? What’s your PIDS say when cranking?

[@revolutionanarchy713]

@@AutomedicGarage got confirmations from 4 different individuals who have had the same situation I am with mine and it was hpop with all theirs. Says it’s not supposed to leak air past the hpop into the oil filter cavity.

[@t.l.minxagriculture980]

Before I do something incredibly stupid, do I have to drain the oil before applying air? I don't want to be blowing oil everywhere....

[@AutomedicGarage]

No. It will push the oil out of the rails back into the crankcase. Just remember when you disconnect your air hose after testing the motor itself will have air pressure in it. So, bleed the air slowly otherwise then you will shot oil everywhere.

[@t.l.minxagriculture980]

@@AutomedicGarage Cool, thank you sir!

[@rickcamp9519]

Question, would like to get more info from you on this, how do I get an Email?

[@AutomedicGarage]

Visit Automedicgarage.com

[@JP-mu3xl]

Ford calls for 15w/40, so why put in wrong type oil 10w30?

[@AutomedicGarage]

@@JP-mu3xl cause it was the wrong type to begin with. 10-30 or 5-40 makes your injectors way happier. Ask thousands or other 6.0 owners or forums or groups and ask them what they run and you’ll get the same answer. All my customers are happy with what I do and what I recommend. When you repair 6.0s run what you want but for me and my customers I’m gonna do what I know is proven.

[@dennisz494]

wanting to fix the truck, and get rid of it. Well, we know he is not an honest person, and what a real jerkoff to just fix one injector and not replace all the seals etc which wouldn't cost that much. Instead he wants to dump his POS off to some unsuspecting person, knowing his POS will break down on the person soon. And i am sure he will not tell anyone that he had a bad seal etc., and replaced it, because he would have to tell them that the rest should soon follow and he didn't replace them while everything was exposed and less costly to fix. Me? I would have had all of them fix and updated and told prospective buyers that i just had the HPOS resealed with all new seals in the injectors etc. I hope he doesnt try to commit fraud and tell anyone he replaced the seals trying to make them think he did them all when he only did one! I wouldn't finish the work on his POS if i were this mechanic, knowing the guy plans to dump it off real quick before the other seals go.

[@AutomedicGarage]

It was just the one injector seal leaking due to a nipple cup seal failure. I’ve replaced just one on customers trucks a lot of times when they are on a budget and they are all running fine years later still and come to me for other maintenance. He did try to advertise it as all new injectors and nipple cups and I saw it on marketplace and called him out. The repair was solid and there’s nothing wrong with doing it that way long as your honest. Truck is still running fine also as I still see it after the new owner bought it. I can’t control what someone sets as a limit for what they want fixed. I do the repair and get paid for what I did. I can’t do more than they ok with me. I wanted to do the whole bank but like I said his truck his money. Thanks for watching.