8 Tips to Get Maximum Fuel Efficiency From Any Motorcycle!

[@motorcycleadventures]

If you want to learn more about the long motorcycle trips check the rest of the videos in the channel or buy my book: "How to become a better long distance motorcycle rider" rtw-adventures.com/books-1.html

[@naveendinakaran5656]

Really brother am following your channel very seriously and i should tell this your videos are really short, informative and not boring unlike other motovloggers so I never skip your videos :) i see it till the end and the last but not least you are a modern-day Columbus :) Cheers !! Naveen Dinakaran Tamilnadu

[@naveendinakaran5656]

Sure i will check it get a copy :)

[@hark7771]

I agree but you forgot 1 important point , chain maintenance lubrication and cleaning. Which is most important and always adds or reduce power and efficiency as well.

[@primitivenv]

Yes, I want to learn it

[@enriquedario2835]

Instablaster

[@MagicRoosterBluesBand]

Get a 250-300cc motorcycle and get 80mpg(US) / 3L/100 km. You can hold 70mph/110kmh all day with 25-30HP.

[@motorcycleadventures]

True

[@teneretraveller8980]

I have found riding style makes a huge difference. For example, trying to time my arrival at junctions so I don't have to stop and pull away from standstill helps. I don't need to overtake everything on the road. Looking ahead so I can plan and keep rolling without overusing the brakes helps me and keeps me alert and focused. I agree with your other commitments and hopefully have saved my hundreds of shekels to spend on other things. Good video. Happy travels

[@motorcycleadventures]

I agree about the gentle riding style. In fact I had this in mind, but forget it when I shoot the video.

[@michaelksiezopolski]

Dear Pavlin Cars uses less fuel not because aerodynamics but because car engines are completely different from those used in motorbikes. Motorbike's engines are mostly high performance engines running well over 6000rpm, while most of the cars are low in rpm and those with high rpm (such as Lamborgini, Ferrari, McLaren) are burning enormous amount of fuel even though they are more than perfect as a aerodynamic shape. New motorbikes such as Honda NC750 is more fuel efficient than other bikes due to its engine design (long bore - low rpm). Common fact is that any four stroke engine under 1200cc is less efficient than two stroke under 1200cc and vice versa over that capacity, and as you know, majority of motorbikes are well below 1200cc, and those that are over 1200cc are fitted in high performing engines revolving up to 14000rpm or even more. Fuel efficiency depends on few factors: 1. Engine Capacity 2. Engine Power (BHP/Nm) 3. Engine Performance 4. Usage Car engines are bigger than they used to. Do you remember old times where most of cars were fitted with small 600-750cc engines? They were burning well over 12 l/100 km, now engines are way bigger and they consume as little as 4.5 l / 100 km. Most of cars are fitted with low performance, high capacity, high pressure, low rpm engines unlike motorbikes where the tendency is just an opposite, and this is why bikes are burning so much power. Try to ride below 4000rpm in your bike and apply throttle very slowly and your fuel consumption will drop to the same or even lower level than in cars! Kind Regards

[@motorcycleadventures]

Michael, you forget that the cars are 5 times heavier. If the bike is this size and weight it will use 20 instead of 5 litters. It is all about the aerodynamic shape. New cars are better now not only because the engines are much more efficient(injection and many more), but also they have much better design and the weight is reduce it a lot.

[@michaelksiezopolski]

@@motorcycleadventures Dear Pavlin The power needed to pull some weight have more significance than aerodynamic shape and I can easily prove it to you in aviation. Car is heavier many times more than a bike, but the power needed to pull this weight gets lower at higher speeds and that is governed in transmission of the vehicle. In the past one horse was able to pull over two tonnes and you are able to push a car as well. The faster you push it is easier to push so aerodynamics is not that important here. Aerodynamics kicks in with way higher speeds (well over 100km/h), and this is not so significant force up until speeds exceeding 160km/h. Look at a Smart. The car has 700cc motorbike engine and it burns over 7 l / 100 km. At the same time look at BMW Mini that burns less than 5 l / 100 km. BMW has 2l engine revolving at max 7000 rpm and Smart has motorbike engine rotating at 12000 rpm! Funny enough, BMW has engine with well over 100BHP while Smart has an engine with 64BHP. High Performance engine will always burn more juice than low performance one. Higher RPM demands more fuel! Look at Honda NC750, there is an engine made same way as for a car, long bore, low rpm, low power and very low fuel consumption with opinion that it feels to be way stronger than 50BHP. The engine is 2 cylinder only using 3.5l / 100 km . Even if you would put this engine to Honda Civic total fuel consumption will never be higher than 5l / 100 km. B.T.W. Honda NC750 converted their car engine to achieve low fuel consumption in the first place, but personally I am not a fan of NC7XX series... Kind Regards

[@tibdek4042]

You're right about the Honda NC750 line - I owned the Integra (2014 model), 750ccm, 50'000km, riding short and long trips, often with pillion, commuting to work (short trips in the city) and many trips to the mountains, with hardcases (ugh), total overall average consumption: 3.5l/100km. The engine basically is "half" a car engine, using the same design as from the Honda Jazz car, but only 2 cylinders. Max rpm was around 6000.

[@motorcycleadventures]

So Michael, you want to tell me that if we have two , exactly the same bikes, with exactly the same engines, but first one heavy loaded with hard cases and without windshield(bad aerodynamic shape) the second with the same weight, but with simple bag behind the rider and of course windshield. Do you think that they will use the same amount of petrol, because the aerodynamics it doesn't matter? Or even better, use the same Honda NC 750 that you gave me for example. Actually you can make this experiment even with cars, just leave the windows open and you will see the same results as the bikes. I already tested this with my bike, with or without saddle bags. The same riding style, the same conditions, the same rider...

[@michaelksiezopolski]

@@motorcycleadventures I can prove that heavy loaded car will burn more fuel than the empty one, exactly same way as a bike!. Just a rider and no load will burn less than a rider and any load. Opened windows in the car will not increase fuel consumption, AC turned on will as it is taking a lot of load to run and with AC on fuel consumption is up to 30% higher than without. Aerodynamic shape helps with high speeds and is completely insignificant at low speeds. (Low = less than 160 km/h). The mass is also important with aerodynamics. The heavier the object the less it will be affected by aerodynamic forces (density is involved here as well). If you want to know more about aerodynamics and thermodynamics, I will be happy to explain that to you over the phone as the topic is huge and I do hate to type. I will be happy to explain differences in engine designs to prove my point and to show you why motorbikes are burning hell of the fuel compares to cars or even some small airplanes. If you are interested in such conversation let me know. Kind Regards

[@whitedrguy6503]

Great tips sir. I have also found that you have to find the sweet spot of the engine, meaning that when you accelerate through the gears do not wind the throttle on hard but use just enough to get to a certain revs so that when you change to the next gear the engine will still pull without effort. Sometimes known as short shifting, being smooth is the secret, my DR 650 gets on average 19-20 kilometres per litre in traffic and the best so far on the highway is 23 KPL, At the end of the day touring is not a race, it is about the ride, slow down enjoy the ride and the scenery and save fuel, simple.

[@motorcycleadventures]

Agree

[@annakld683]

in Greece we say "a hungry bear wont dance!" lol, thank you for all your great tips! Greetings from Crete!

[@motorcycleadventures]

Thanks for watching!

[@MotoHolic]

Great tips, thank you for sharing and confirming my thoughts. Another things comes to mind is that as you increase the speed, the air "resistance" becomes more, and it is not linear! The resistance at 100km/h is more then 4 times higher then at 50km/h. So next time when you decide to ride at top speed - think if you can really "afford" it. I noticed that with my own bike, when cruising at comfortable speed (for me 80-90km/h) my fuel consumption is much better then when pushing it to 100-110km/h. At that speed I consume upto 15% more fuel per kilometre! That's a lot!

[@motorcycleadventures]

Agree!

[@michaelksiezopolski]

No matter what you are riding, riving or flying, more power equals higher fuel consumption which is not proportional to gained velocity. Unfortunately at lower speed it has nothing to do with aerodynamic forces as they are too weak to affect you. There was an aviation experiment where VP2 airplane was aerodynamically corrected (drag was reduced by better airfoil profile, cabin enclosure and removal of vortex generating edges). The result was a gain of 10mph in cruising speed which originally was 100mph. So the plane increased its cruising speed by 16km/h after modifications and could fly 176km/h instead of 160km/h. Was it worth it? For the plane maybe not as it cost almost 40% more than original design but for bike it is non-sense as legal speeds are way lower and in the city it is not important at all. You will burn way more waiting for a green light!

[@GerhardCombrink]

Tires make an enormous difference. The Karoo Street tires I fitted to my bike are 8% heavier on fuel than the Tourance Next tires I had. If you now also factor in that they don't last as long, the cost adds up.

[@pauldavison2116]

Another great video. Keep it up. On my particular motorcycle the factory installed an 18 tooth final drive gear so the bike would pass some a silly regulation or other. This left the motorcycle on the highways feeling very "buzzy" and leaving me always searching for the next higher gear. Most of the owners I have talked to have switched to a 19 tooth drive gear and this cured the buzzy sound, searching for the next gear, dropped the RPMs down by almost 1000 rpm, and increased fuel efficiency.

[@brianseas8903]

2:50 - I keep the driver, passenger, and cargo weight down below what the manufacturer recommends. Also, I agree to use leather saddle bags and synthetic fabric bags instead or hard cases.

[@motorcycleadventures]

True

[@EmoMitev]

Като чух "Bulgaria" и ми се насълзиха очите. Имам хрема. Поздравления за това, което правиш.

[@motorcycleadventures]

Мерси!

[@stevenc3809]

Thanks for your tips sir! A tip that I learned from a riding instructor is to stay away from the brakes (within reason). What I mean is to look far forward and when you have a corner coming up, let off your throttle early enough so you will not need to use your brakes - then steady the throttle back on when exiting the corner. A small percentage of petrol can be saved this way in addition to your great tips. My latest fuel economy is 5.52L/100km - on a 01 Yamaha R6 with saddle bags & Top box. Cheers!

[@motorcycleadventures]

Thanks for adding, actually I was planing to talk about that as well, but I forgot it while I was shoot the video.

[@Francois_Dupont]

when i bought my FI bike i was very surprised, always 100% relibility and stability. easy starts and driving.

[@motorcycleadventures]

Agree

[@TheFvonreiche]

Long ago I won a competition for best tips to save petrol (gasoline) and I have been doing OK on my V-strom. Thanks Pavlin I learnt new things I do did not know! :-) I'm going to try and break my 55 miles per gallon record on my V-strom. Manage to get average of 43pmg on my 2 litre Hyundai

[@motorcycleadventures]

Thanks for taking the time!

[@wallaceshackleton1889]

Good stuff Pavlin, like previous poster have suggested riding smarter; not aggressively on the throttle, smooth acceleration and deceleration and timing gear changes stretches out the consumption. If your bike has a computer paying attention to that will help a lot find that all important sweet spot. Riding at lower speeds will also help with rider fatigue.

[@motorcycleadventures]

Agree

[@mr.solitude3352]

Very sound advice, in my opinion. If you need saddlebags like I do, you can get aerodynamically-shaped ones like the Givi V37. The boxy ones may give you more room, but they come with an extra wind drag factor. I also favor a tall wind screen when I ride, and not just on the highway. Every bit of aerodynamic effect helps. Fuel economy and ride comfort wise. And I totally agree with water cooled engines being a better option than air cooled ones. But then again, I live in the desert part of the United States. :)

[@motorcycleadventures]

Agree

[@marcelvanbodegom]

Agree. I actually use less fuel when riding with my Givi aerodynamically shaped top box compared to riding with my soft luggage. I use the top box for commuting because it is more practical and use soft luggage for my motorcycle trips because of the better centre of gravity.

[@miguelteixeira6323]

I have just bought a Gilera Stalker 50 D. I will try this tips next time I drive it

[@motorcycleadventures]

Have fun!

[@adam346]

your owner's manual will often have or describe "change points" i.e. at what point can you shift up... these are designed to not lug the engine but get lowest RPM and be safe in that particular gear. A cb300r has a 10km/hr interval... 6th gear you can be at 60km.. anything lower and it will lug. Learn your bike and use the lowest rpm you can for said gear for the given speed and you will get great mileage... my little cb is getting something like 3.3L per 100km and I don't really take it easy on it and could be hitting 80 mpg (3L~ per 100km) without trouble, possibly higher if I tried.

[@Ljosi]

You forgot to mention that drag (air resistance) increases with the square of velocity, cars drag coefficient is ~0.4 while bike ~0.9, it becomes a significant factor beyond ~70km/h. So to really save on fuel on a motorcycle you should ride it at a constant speed of 50 to 60 km/h, and if your tires are very hard to keep the rolling resistance to a minimum as well, then you can reduce you fuel consumption to 2l/100 km. Modern bikes like the Honda cb125f 2021 have an average factory specified fuel consumption of 1.5l/100km due to modern EFI and low curb weight, this is without the rider doing all that I explained above, so with that bike if the driver is also careful they can lower the consumption to 0.9l/100km, there are already guys reporting this on forums about extreme fuel economy. If you have a carb you can down jet it and run extra lean, it will increase the cylinder temp so only do it on water cooled engines, if you ride a constant 50 to 60 km/h you can go as lean as you want, disable the accelerator pump on the carb as you won't need it. Give me an older bike that consumes 5l/100km, I will cut it up, reduce weight, reduce power, mod the EFI or carb, mod the engine, improve reliability, improve drag, improve rolling resistance, put you on a diet to reach a body mass of 70kg, etc, etc, the result will be 1.5l/100km with my money back written guarantee. Personally I use a Honda PCX 125 heavily modded towards fuel economy, it now weights 90kg with 3l of fuel (replaced fuel tank with a 3l stainless bottle), I was on an extreme diet for 7 months to reduce my body weight from 77kg to 60kg, goal was me and the bike combined with fuel below 150kg. I keep my speed at a constant 45 km/h, with all of that my fuel economy is 0.6l/100km on open road, 0.8l in town (the PCX has an auto shut off on every stop, that helps on red lights). If you want to learn more visit the extreme fuel economy forums EDIT: About the weight reduction/safety people might have issue with - A vehicles steel frame and other safety features are designed for the speed and rider and gear weight that vehicle will be used for. If you plan to use that vehicle at a much lower speed and rider weight then all of those safety features can be removed/reduced. The steel tubular frame can be reduced to half the weight, rear brake can be removed, rear suspension strut removed from 2 to 1, wheels replaced with 10 or 12", all dashboard gauges removed, etc, etc.

[@motorcycleadventures]

Thanks for taking the time!

[@Bunnybringer]

Мерси, за клипа и имаше както се очаква неща които не ги знам и вече ги разбрах, благодарско отново. :)

[@motorcycleadventures]

Моля!

[@BashkimUkshini]

"Thanks to my graphic design skills" HAHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHAHAHAHAHAHA

[@motorcycleadventures]

My pleasure!

[@RoadDogSteve]

Good tips.... Here in USA I found the sweet spot for my 2014 versys 650 is around 60-65 mph... I don't need to go faster...In the city I watch ahead at traffic flow and signal changes to reduce shifting and unnecessary acceleration... Helps me practice slow speed balance too... Anyway I know conditions vary everywhere... Just my way of conservation of fuel... BTW... Doing the above gives me up to 15 mpg savings.. Good distance on a 5 gal. tank... Thank you

[@motorcycleadventures]

You are welcome anytime!

[@Ronbassettphd]

Thanks for making yet another very informative video. I learned something new from each one.

[@motorcycleadventures]

You are welcome! This is the idea of the channel, to help!

[@rickshawphilippines]

My trick was to add footpegs by the rear sprocket and a comfy pad on the tank. And laydown behind the windscreen. As traffic permits. Most of my weekend commutes (800mi) was at night low traffic volume.

[@motorcycleadventures]

Good

[@eberbacher007]

very good video. Another thing why bikes need so much more is that the engine tilts, which means some methods used in car engines which usually don´t lean 30 degrees, can´t be used

[@motorcycleadventures]

True

[@andrewnahnichuk6300]

My 250cc bike consumes like 2,8 to 3 liters per 100kms,but when i twist a throttle hardly it can eat uo to 5 liters.funny, yeah? But,when i ride at normal rpm and the cruising speed is about 80-90 kms at the 5th gear,the consumption is around 3 liters, pretty good for me)). Everybody enjoy your rides!! The ride is about emotions,not how fast you get to the place!!

[@motorcycleadventures]

True

[@dmitrypetrov1413]

Yep, it is a story about "more cc vs less cc". More weight You are going to carry - more cc in an engine You need (for economical reasons). If You have got a bike with 125cc engine which consumes 1,5 litres per 100 kilometers - great, but does it have got a power reserve? And do You realy need it on the other side? As always You choose the bike in accordance with Your own preferences and possibilities. Same for driving/riding style.

[@chrisredfield3240]

@@dmitrypetrov1413 power in reserve with a 125cc you may not even have the power to get up a hill at 30mph with some luggage. Mpg takes a huge hit when you have to run an engine flat out.

[@piearm1271]

A great clip, lots of very clear tips. Ride smooth, look ahead, keep your bike maintained and develop your ability to sense what’s right for every situation.

[@motorcycleadventures]

Much appreciated!

[@angelite143]

You also need to maintain constant velocity, twisting the throttle conservatively, proper wheel/chain alignment, travel as light as you can.

[@motorcycleadventures]

True

[@christopherbarker942]

I see several issues with what you've said. First while cars have better aerodynamics your example car is a tiny economy car. In the US your average fuel economy for a normal sized car is around 30mpg but here trucks are the most popular and they can get around 1/2 of that. Only the biggest or fastest bikes are anywhere near that low. My Versys gets nearly twice the exonomy of my wifes equnox and almost three times what my daughters lexus gets. Second while cool air does make your air charge denser a properly functioning fuel injection system maintans your fuel ratio to avoid an engine damaging lean condition. Now this denser air and the extra fuel needed to utilize it creats a little more power which results in less load on the engine in much the same maner that a lower gear will somtime yeild better milage.

[@redcracker119]

Didn't anybody told you that you sounds like _Al Adin_ in _Wadiiya_ or _Borat_ in a cool way? or am I the first one told you that? 😂 Great content man ❤️

[@motorcycleadventures]

Cool!

[@allenhuling598]

Another great video! I'm always amazed at the amount of thought/research you put into these...well done!

[@motorcycleadventures]

Thanks Allen!

[@alexybodom]

Before i buy my first motorcycle i was asking the same question how the hell the fuel nonsumption its soooo bad and Pavlin you are right about aerodynamics but i wanna underline that also the torque of the engine its the most important the of all specs in the vehicle or Nm ot Volume ratio as i call it. I`m truck driver and i drive 14.7 liter Scania V8 that produce 3000Nm of torque and with 40 tons my truck consumption its about 32l/100km and i also have Honda Fury 1300cc and engine engine torque of 98.9 Nm with some 3D ijection system and my average consumption its 4.0-4.5 (440kg total weight) my engine its really slow but have all the torque in the low engine speed so i dont have to push it hard. The most of the bikes have very fast engines butt low engine torque this its why i think that the fuel consumptino its soo bad

[@motorcycleadventures]

True

[@raitro]

... did not read all the comments, so maybe somebody already suggested this, but if you have different riding modes on your bike, on my KTM f.e. I need less gasoline, when I put it in "RAIN" mode (almost 1 liter per 100 km). Ride safely!

[@davidskogley3570]

As always, an interesting and informative video! What about choosing a less powerful bike? Riding a 500 or 650 instead of a 1200 would certainly help save fuel.

[@motorcycleadventures]

Not in every case. It's depends from the luggage and the riding style more than the engine size. Big bikes, like GS 1200 for example use about the same petrol as 600cc if they are ridden gently.

[@chrisredfield3240]

The 1200gs can get 70mpg if not ridden to hard. @70mph 2up it uses less fuel than the 800gs.

[@neilwiddison6529]

@@chrisredfield3240 70 from a gs that good if its true

[@Леха-в8у3э]

Yeah, wind resistance is proportial to square of speed, so the lowest fuel consumption is on sppeds arounf 90-100 km/h on 6'th gear with any aerodynamics

[@chrisredfield3240]

@ 60mph my bike gets 80mpg 2up my car around 52mpg with 2 people inside. 800cc twin petrol vs 2.0 diesel. Cars have come along way in efficiency vs bikes. 3.85sec 0-60 bike vs 9.5sec.0-60 for the car

[@Andy-wk2xm]

Hi palvin, Another great vid and feed back for you .. I tour around Europe on my little honda cg125, If i do a ten day tour what i save on petrol it pays for at least 3 nights bed and breakfast plus a few beers as well ! Not everyone cup of tea i know , but my budget way of see the world on a shoes string . . Keep up the good work 😃

[@motorcycleadventures]

I will, enjoy your trip!

[@mototroter]

Once I have on my V-Strom 650 fuel consumption at 3,0 l/km driving from Montenegro to Primosten in Croatia. I thought it was a miracle. Full loaded. But it was: good well maintained motorcycle, aerodynamic windshield and aerodynamic hardcases, speed 50-90 km/h, good fuel, proper gear change.

[@motorcycleadventures]

There days like this, but not always.

[@mototroter]

​@@motorcycleadventures I have similar opinion about this engine start/stop system.

[@motorcycleadventures]

It is another way to the manufacturer to sell more parts.

[@mototroter]

​@@motorcycleadventures Including my favourite and the most poisonous part, the battery. Nobody is talking about it.

[@mototroter]

Two more things, I think. 1. You said about proper rpm in the middle of the scale. You simplified it a little bit I think. Every engine has its efficiency curve (efficiency depending on rpm). To save the fuel we need to have maximum efficiency it means that we should keep rpm exactly in the maximum point of this engine curve. Every engine differs more or less and it is worth to know what you have (for example Honda NC700 has very unusual low rpm engine or VTEC technology etc.). But your simplification is good enough for practical use. 2. Proper type of tires for surface you are riding. For example for asphalt road it will be not economic to use very aggressive tires. In that case I can say: The less noise the tires produce, the more economical they are but I have never measured the difference to give any detailed numbers. Anyway you did another very good movie.

[@rgbgfabian]

Hi Pavlin, I think a well designed Air + Oil cooled engine is just as good was water cooled. Look at the Suzuki DR650SE. I drove it from the cold German winter's to the hot Moroccan summer and never had any issues with the bike overheating. Also fuel economy is always the same with about 4.7-5.0 l/100km with an old style carb :)

[@motorcycleadventures]

Yes, but my friend Dima burned his clutch in the Karakum desert because of the heat. What I am sying is that this DR, with water radiator will be even better. For example Honda NC750, bigger and powerful bike then the DR use 3-3.5 l/100km.

[@rgbgfabian]

@@motorcycleadventures Yes you're probably right about that. Something like 2cyl around 700cc Fuel Injection and water cooled will make the best "Adventure Bike". Looking forward to the new Tenere 700 ;) Keep on making your good videos!

[@motorcycleadventures]

I look forward to test this model as well!

[@MrGAdam]

Nice tips. I was thinking lately about this petrol thing. Is the range difference really that big with the cheap/expensive petrol? Or is it just better for the engine to run on higher octane? Have safe riding, pozdrav!

[@michaelangelofrancis3651]

Hi ....Ur channel is byfar the best on all advices . Congratulations for a fantastic channel.

[@motorcycleadventures]

Thanks man!

[@dmitrypetrov1413]

I suppose it is some kind of dependency: less rpm = less fuel consumption. The exception is probably - the load of engine, You should use proper gear when You ride (drive) upper/lower but it is because of physical processes (vacuum) inside the engine. In 1990s in Russia the most of cars were with carburator type engines. Because of the lack of money many of russian drivers had been equipped their cars with vacuum meter. It consists of a vacuum sensor (applies into engine intake) and an analog display with 3 zones - green, yellow and red. If I right nowadays this sensor is built in in every engine of injection type and is used by ECU/EBU/engine_brains to calculate the amount of fuel to inject in cylinder. And instead of analog display You may select instant consumption mode on Your on-board computer to decide what gear to use.

[@motorcycleadventures]

True

[@dmitrypetrov1413]

@@motorcycleadventures But if a fuel consumption of Your motorcycle is approximately equals a fuel consumption of a car even if You ride carefully - You can not actually do anything with it. Except for changing a motorcycle %)

[@motorcycleadventures]

Depends from what you expect. For some people 1l save for 100km is a lot. I personally never really worried about the fuel consumption.

[@dmitrypetrov1413]

@@motorcycleadventures Exactly, it is all individual preferences. If You have enough money to pay for Your comfort - why not? As for long distance trips, You may save 1 litre per 100 kilometers, but if You travel about 4000 kilometers and same distance back it is about 80 litres economy. For me it is full tank of my bus and about 1300 kilometers of (may be) interesting roads. I do not speak about the price. In Russia it is about (80 litres of diesel) 48 euros, not very expensive, ok. But in Turkey same amount of diesel fuel will be about 100 euros (if I remember well). Ok, it is not so much too, I agree. But more then 1000 kilometers of unknown beautiful roads - priceless %)

[@andreykhalfin2298]

When you look farther forward, you can prevent useless throttle twisting. There is no need to accelerate 200 meters before traffic light or stop sign.

[@motorcycleadventures]

True, I was planed to talk about this as well, but forgot when I shoot the video.

[@shubhamsinghpadiyar5224]

Sir! When we are riding downhills. What's much efficient, off the engine or ride in a gear..?

[@motorcycleadventures]

Of course when the engine is off it consume nothing. If you mean riding on gear without throttle and on neutral gear, on neutral engine uses more petrol.

[@shubhamsinghpadiyar5224]

@@motorcycleadventures Sir! I've heard that if we turn off the engine and ride down hill, it would affect breaking system. The manual book says while riding down hill it's better to ride in lower gear. It would increase the life of breaks. If I think about both petrol and breaks, what would be the best option for long term..? And one more question... Is Switching off the engine while on traffic batter than keeping engine start...? Thank you so much.

[@Nikki_Holland]

Always good information as usual. Thanks Pavlin

[@motorcycleadventures]

Thanks Nikki!

[@j.colman6484]

Excellent advice, as always.

[@motorcycleadventures]

Glad it was helpful!

[@sjaakvandam2170]

Cars are relatively more economical because they have much more space for a large engine. Motorbikes have small engines and need to rely on high rpm to make power. High rpm= more fuel burned. Actually, i drive a van wich is much less earodynamic then my bike, its basically a rolling brick, and they burn the same ammount of fuel.

[@motorcycleadventures]

This also is very important factor. Even the brick van has better shape than your bike. Check in wind tunnel.

[@chrisredfield3240]

I have a van. Only has 1.6diesel engine and 5 speed box. If i drive it slow the aerodynamics lack of 6th gear and under powered engine is OK i get around 700 to a tank. If i gun it the brick like shape the sky high rpm's and 1.6 engine giving everything it has means not much more the 300 miles. If i were to drive faster a 2.0 engine would make more sense. (It's not even that fast anyway with the 1.6 but mpg is awful

[@021mr5]

Octane ratings only matter if you have a high compression engine. Using a high octane gasoline in a small cc scooter with an average compression ratio, you're only paying more for the same gas consumption.

[@md123420]

i drove my KLR650 in -5F and it stalled a couple times on me when i was driving

[@whitecompany18]

I ride a Royal Enfield classic 500 and I'm happy on quiet roads 50-55 mph and I use nitrogen in my tyres and on a good day I've had 90 mpg with all my camping gear and full Jerry cans on the bike. Not much wind at 50 mph to waste fuel haha.

[@motorcycleadventures]

Good

[@marcinnzk9157]

Cool, but i would also recommend checking what "brake specific fuel consumption g/kWh", that every engine has measured, is. Motorcycle engines are just not efficient at all with burning fuel. Talking about aerodynamics to ride 200 km/h (the higher speed is, the more aero power loses are noticable, so more clear view you will see) on motorbike You need to keep delivering around 55 kW of power, on normal car around 100 kW so it shows that aerodynamics power loses difference are still big, mass has just matter when you change it's speed or altitude, of course more mass more power is lost on wheels and bearings.

[@laszlobauer5274]

Great pont about injectors. Carburetors are easier to fix but need more attention and they break easier. And you did not mention that injection system can compensate for altitude difference.

[@motorcycleadventures]

True, I forgot about it.

[@M4BoarBiker]

Nice video Sir, I have dumped my Top box and opted for a waterproof bag strapped to the pillion seat because of one of your previous vids. Thanks for the advice.

[@motorcycleadventures]

Thanks for taking the time and watching my videos!

[@teflondave7823]

Hypermiling on a motorcycle kind of defets the purpuse of a motorcycle. I do hypermiling by bringing an extra tank.

[@brianseas8903]

I look forward to when Suzuki welcomes a vast increase in new bike sales of their touring motorcycles by either spreading gearing out or adding more than the current five which has you in fifth gear at a mere 42-45mph.

[@motorcycleadventures]

Good

[@mistertwister7234]

Thank you sir! That was very informative for me, as a beginner I learnt a lot.

[@motorcycleadventures]

Glad it was helpful!

[@bakabezzraka]

No 1 tip park your motorcycle and walk .. :D pozdrav iz hrvatske

[@motorcycleadventures]

The best tip!

[@sujoydey8469]

Great tips as always.. thanks Pavlin.

[@motorcycleadventures]

You are always welcome Sujoy!

[@naveendinakaran5656]

Once again a lovely useful video specially I love the 7th point well explained

[@motorcycleadventures]

Thanks for taking the time!

[@naveendinakaran5656]

@@motorcycleadventures Dear Pavlin what is your opinion on Royal Enfield Continental GT650 Twin

[@motorcycleadventures]

I have no idea, haven't see it so far.

[@adityarizki6683]

full of information...👍

[@motorcycleadventures]

Thanks!

[@outdoor1640]

interesting comment on running in cold. My car gets best gas mileage in the hot summer vs cold winter.

[@motorcycleadventures]

You said that your car use less petrol in the summer, right? The car will be more economical when the temperature is 20 instead of 35 degrees. I don't mean cold winter ride.

[@lordGalthran]

thanks Pav .. i want to ask you to your comfort riding standard how many minimum cc on bike that goes well around the world? thanks before

[@motorcycleadventures]

Depends from you, people travel even with 50cc scooters.

[@BryanBee]

Great tips. Thanks

[@motorcycleadventures]

My pleasure!

[@macfir8124]

Hi Pavlin. I have air and oil cooled Yamaha xj900 Diversion. Is a great bike for any conditions. Hot, cold and average... The benefits: a Very simple engine, four cylinders, four spark plugs, eight valves.... What can go wrong? Only whether...

[@motorcycleadventures]

Ride whatever you like, all the best!

[@macfir8124]

Motorcycle Adventures Thanks for answer! I plan to go Chernobyl in Ukraina then Belarus and Lithuania this summer. Your advices always helpful. Thanks. Ride save!

[@geregivan]

Hello my Friend an other great video I ride air cooled bike BUT the bigest BUT liquid cooling is realy The BEST for today

[@motorcycleadventures]

Agree

[@themotomotion]

I was laughing when you said "thanks to my graphic design skills", nice man, very nice! Great information, as always, thanks.

[@motorcycleadventures]

Well...I am good, don't you think? I can draw lines on picture with paint...

[@themotomotion]

​@@motorcycleadventures hehehe, I agree, very good indeed. I am a journalist, I have done radio and tv, and I can tell you it is a very thin line that separates a good production from a bad one, doing a bit of comedy in a serious speech is not something everyone can pull off, and you did it with no hassle, I think you do it very well because it seems natural. Thanks again for all the useful information, your videos are very informative and also entertaining. Greetings and salutations my friend.

[@carstengerm]

I can get my CBF down to around 3,5-4,0 Liter/100km, not bad for a inline4 Liter Bike isnt it?

[@motorcycleadventures]

Very good!

[@ditodeejay]

Are you calculating your consumption the right way? What year is you CBF?

[@carstengerm]

Its a 2011 (SC64), fuel consum is in the Display. Only on open roads without much stopping it is that low. In the City its about 5 - 5,5l.

[@ditodeejay]

@@carstengerm Thank you.

[@am3f779]

Thats just awesome u are a professional

[@motorcycleadventures]

Thanks for watching!

[@wahyuwicaksono1133]

Very clear explanation. 👍

[@motorcycleadventures]

Thanks!

[@guiza3248]

Paulin. Nice T - Shirt. Do you have some for sale?. Do you ship internationally?

[@motorcycleadventures]

Yes, you can choose from many models here: rtw-adventures.com/shop-1.html

[@guiza3248]

@@motorcycleadventures Thanks for your response. Will be ordering some items shortly and greetings from Baja California. By the way, Tenere Rider too.

[@COOLCABMAN]

Amazing tips.. Thank you

[@motorcycleadventures]

Glad it was helpful!

[@princegeorge6988]

Sir i have Pulsar 125cc bike. Can you share some tips for less consumption of petrol for long root journey.

[@TheAbinn]

We don't give you tips for your cheap plastic motorcycle

[@TonboTouring]

5:23 I doubt that there are instructors who tell you to use the highest gear uphill / neutral downhill. That would be crazy!

[@motorcycleadventures]

There are

[@kennethodiwuor3726]

Hello brother......I want to buy Honda XL 125L Is it a good brand,help me pls ???

[@KatanaRIDERS.]

I'm so cheap on my scooter it makes 800km on a tank and I want it to do more 🤣

[@motorcycleadventures]

Cool!

[@Леха-в8у3э]

Thanks, Pavlin, great tips. I'm a bit confused about engine displacement. BMW claims that their 650cc single-cylinder bike takes 3.5 litres per 100km, yet 1200gs consumes 6 litres. I thout on selling my old big gs and buying a smaller one or honda nc700x, but I've been told that both bikes has the same fuel efficience, you just need to keep higher rpms on 650cc. Is this true? I'm a bit disagree about air cooling - older r1100 and r1200gs has air-cooled engines along with fuel injection, ABS, etc. And those bikes are very easy to maintain by yourself.

[@motorcycleadventures]

You might disagree, but even BMW stop making these engines after so many years. The low consumption of the bike could be reached even with big cc(1000 or 1200) if you just follow the tips I told you.

[@szeriman13]

Алексей Шутов honda nc series are extrem in efficiency. They have around 3,5l/100 you will never get those numbers on the GS.

[@djeffhawk7987]

I agree, you are right but just to say, i have a XT600Z from 1989 carburator air/oil cooled the bike consume 4 to 4.5l for 100 km with 185kg full tank and big me 130kg. Why i choose this bike, to do self maintenance with simple tools, to save money and to be sure it's really and correctly done. Good ride

[@wahyuwicaksono1133]

What petrol do you use? Ron92? Or98? Thanks for answer.. Cheer from Java Island...

[@motorcycleadventures]

Here around Europe I usually us 95

[@mototroter]

But if I can say something, petrol 98 does not mean that is more effective than 92. Octane number is related to engine compression but not directly with fuel efficiency.

[@Smalltime]

Wich octane did your run your xt660z on?

[@motorcycleadventures]

Whatever I find. It burns them all!

[@Smalltime]

@@motorcycleadventures between 95, 98 and 100 - witch would you choose for the xt660z? (also congratz on the new garage, comming along great)

[@motorcycleadventures]

95 is just fine.

[@Smalltime]

@@motorcycleadventures ok thank you

[@mesbahahmed2621]

Some good tips. Please share little more on petrol booster, how does this work and is there any adverse affect on the engine?

[@motorcycleadventures]

This basically is an additive to help you to boos the petrol if you are not sure about the quality. You have to mix it with the petrol you have at the moment.

[@flaktdi]

alo and a complete escape or an additional ecu ??? can be more fuel efficient ???

[@motorcycleadventures]

I cannot understand what you mean?

[@flaktdi]

if with the placement of a complete exhaust, arrow type, or similar, the fuel consumption will be more efficient ?? and we can also choose to put a Power Comander to have more efficiency from the engine and soon make the fuel consumption more efficient, right?

[@motorcycleadventures]

No really, because installing all of these you will definitely improve the work of the engine, but the problem is that you will use this power more often (twisting the throttle more) and this will increase the fuel consumption. If you are gentle it will help.

[@wapster77]

i already get about 125km to 5L of petrol without doing to much to save petrol i guess thats the joys over having a low powered bike

[@motorcycleadventures]

True

[@iamtourer]

Good tips Pavlin Sometimes I feel my Himalayan have the over heating problem and that's causing fuel efficiency. May be you can tell me better.

[@motorcycleadventures]

Absolutely!

[@akashmanick2689]

Hello sir, I have a taro gp2 motorcycle. How to save fuel plz

[@mohammadsakib9290]

I am afraid to ride again, because i had an big accident(leg bone fracture). Please give some tips how to deal with fear.

[@motorcycleadventures]

Just start slowly as soon as possible. More you wait, difficult it will be.

[@mohammadsakib9290]

@@motorcycleadventures I just took my first ride 10 minutes ago and got your reply! Thanks man. 👌

[@jonepomuk]

Pavlin, can you make a video about tyre choice for adventure riding? Would be great! Thanks!

[@motorcycleadventures]

Woala: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iJ6rZaOVZcp6i6M

[@muhammedahmed8256]

hi pavlin.. can you please make it clearer how a ideling bike going downhill uses more petrol then a bike with highest gear going downhill. I know staying in neutral is very unsafe... but actually I didn't get the point how it is not effective in saving petrol.

[@motorcycleadventures]

When you chop the throttle while you going downhill, you actually use engine brake. At that moment the bike use almost nothing compare to the idling on neutral. It is not much, but when you combine all the tips together you will save more than a litter per 100km.

[@muhammedahmed8256]

Motorcycle Adventures thank you for such detailed reply... luckly my ybr uses only 2.18 liter per 100km :)

[@niallm4804]

Great common sense tips , thanks Pavlin

[@motorcycleadventures]

My pleasure Niall!

[@SmokeyVlogs]

my first bike , i bought a "pulsar 150" air cooled 150cc carburetor bike , im going to use it till it cannot be repaired :P

[@ruslanvoitenko4258]

What about fuel grade? I noticed my Vstrom 650 consumes 5-10% less on premium gas, but it costs 10-20%more

[@motorcycleadventures]

More or less is the same. I never use premium.

[@ruslanvoitenko4258]

@@motorcycleadventures thanks Pavlin, be very careful in Russia, it's getting worse there soon

[@ZIGIS-wr1nz]

My moped drives 100km and uses 5 liters of fuel, do someone know whats whit my moped?

[@netnzn]

How about change sprockets to increase mileage?

[@motorcycleadventures]

You can do it, but will effect the power ration on low speed.

[@kkl3614]

I changed to a bigger front and smaller rear sprockets, you loose a little acceleration but I gained 35km on each tank of fuel.

[@motorcycleadventures]

True, but you also lost your flexibility. Always pros and cons.

[@SmokeyVlogs]

thank you for tips , next motorcycle i will buy injected liquid cooled engine , maybe after 20 years :D who knows what happens till then

[@garv317]

Does premium fuel increase efficiency on long trips due to high octane number?

[@motorcycleadventures]

Yes

[@yveslegrand9826]

Saving on anything about motorbike is just a wasted effort... at best. If you're not ready for the cost of it, you have made the wrong choice. However it doesn't mean you have to waste anything. Properly maintained and operated bike will give the best service for the optimized cost.

[@motorcycleadventures]

Fair enough!

[@primitivenv]

How much does it cost? Brother

[@alexhayat5175]

8:58 😁😁, good tips

[@motorcycleadventures]

Thanks!

[@abhayvadhavkar2231]

I have a BMW G650GS and I don't think it uses any gas/petrol as long as I stay under 70 mph (112 kmph).

[@motorcycleadventures]

So you actually don't need petrol tank?

[@abhayvadhavkar2231]

@@motorcycleadventures A little humor. Yes I do but the bike is very fuel efficient and I love that about the bike.

[@prostosergik]

How does this phrase about hungry horses sounds on Bulgarian?

[@motorcycleadventures]

Кон да бяга и да не яде няма!

[@prostosergik]

Благодаря!

[@Biker_Space]

Hey Pavlin, maybe you meant this? Гладна мечка хоро не играе 😀 Anyway, ride safe my friend. Greetings from Cyprus.

[@motorcycleadventures]

No, I mean ' Кон да бяга и да не яде няма!'

[@Biker_Space]

@@motorcycleadventures In greek you say: "Νηστικό Αρκούδι δεν χορεύει" A hungry bear doesn't want to dance. Always watching your vids. Take care !