How to Pigtail Electrical Wires

How to Pigtail Electrical Wires: A Guide by James Adams of ABR Electric
abrelectric.com/prosper
Pigtailing is a technique used in electrical wiring to extend or manage connections when adding devices or when there are not enough spaces in a junction box. This guide, based on the expertise of James Adams, will walk you through the process of pigtailing electrical wires.
Materials Needed
Wire strippers
Wire nuts
Electrical tape
Screwdrivers
Voltage meter
Safety Precautions
Ensure power is off before starting. Use a voltage meter to confirm there is no power.
Be cautious when stripping wires to avoid nicks.
Steps for Pigtailing
1. Preparing the Wires
Identify Wires: Locate the wires you need to work with (grounds, neutrals, and hots).
Cut Wires to Length: Ensure all wires are of the same length for consistency. Leave the ground wire slightly longer.
Strip Wires: Carefully strip the insulation from the wires, ensuring not to nick the copper.
2. Creating the Pigtail
Ground Pigtail:
Twist the ground wires together.
Add a short piece of wire (the pigtail) to the bundle.
Secure with a wire nut.
Neutral Pigtail:
Align the insulation points of the neutral wires.
Twist the wires together and add the neutral pigtail.
Secure with a wire nut. If the twist isn’t neat, redo it for a solid connection.
Hot Pigtail:
Follow the same process as the neutral pigtail for the hot wires.
3. Ensuring Solid Connections
Twist the wire nut until the wires and the bundle start to twist with it. This indicates a tight and secure connection.
Do not reuse old wire nuts.
4. Wiring the Device (e.g., Plug)
Use the wire strippers to create hooks on the wires.
Attach the wires to the plug, ensuring they are wrapped clockwise around the screws.
Tighten all screws, including the ones not used, to prevent shorts.
5. Finalizing the Installation
Pre-bend the wires to fit them back into the box neatly.
Ensure the ground wire does not ride back up and cause a short.
If working with a switch box, ensure all neutrals are pigtailed.
Benefits of Pigtailing
Prevents loose connections and voltage drops.
Ensures continuous power through the circuit even if the device fails.
Useful in both old and new constructions for reliable power distribution.
Conclusion
Pigtailing is a valuable skill for managing electrical connections and ensuring safety and reliability in your electrical system. Remember to prioritize safety and double-check your connections for a successful installation.
ABR Electric, your trusted experts in Prosper TX. From outdoor security lights to whole house surge protection, we cover it all!
🏠 Outdoor Security Lights & Landscape Lighting
Discover how ABR Electric transforms your backyard into a mesmerizing oasis with top-quality outdoor security lighting.
Learn about the importance of lumens, wattage, and durability in outdoor lighting.
Find out how we blend functionality and aesthetics to create an inviting ambiance.
⚡ Whole House Surge Protection
Understand the dangers of voltage surges and the importance of protecting your home.
Explore the Siemens FS140 Whole House Surge Protection and its benefits.
💡 Recessed Lighting
Get insights into the elegance and practicality of recessed lighting.
Tips on proper placement for optimal results.
🚗 EV Charging Stations
Learn about the installation process and considerations for electric vehicle charging stations.
Discover the range of EV brands we cater to.
🔋 Generac Generators
As an authorized Generac dealer and installer, find out how ABR Electric ensures your peace of mind during power outages.
🛠️ Electrical Panel Replacements & Upgrades
Signs you need a breaker box upgrade.
The risks associated with Federal Pacific Panels and why replacing them is crucial.
At ABR Electric, we're more than just electricians; we're your trusted partners in every project. Our team of licensed electricians brings unparalleled expertise and a genuine connection with people.
📞 Ready to transform your space with stunning lighting or need an electrical upgrade? Contact us today for a free consultation!
🔗 For more information, visit our website: abrelectric.com
👍 Don't forget to like, share, and subscribe for more insightful videos from ABR Electric!

[@mikec6014]

The most important tip if you don't make the noises it won't work lol great job quick to the point and easy to understand

[@abrelectric]

Old Dad noises. Trade secret 😜

[@brock4372]

I've watched 5 videos on this and you're the only one to explain it well enough. Doing some work on a buddies garage that burned down. Am not an electrician but we have a friend who is and will go over my work.

[@abrelectric]

You're a good friend! Take your time and test your work.

[@brock4372]

@@abrelectric Definitely taking my time. I enjoy electrical.

[@stevodakine1]

Thanks for the content, I really appreciate guys like you.

[@charlesthomas4032]

I’m adding an outlet in my garage and this was a nice refresher course

[@jstephen591]

Thanks for the info ABR! It'll be helpful for me in my day to day work.

[@bywo]

This video is what i am looking for..I am adding another outlet coming from a receptacle with one outlet already connected to it..Pig tailing all is the solution..thanks.very informative..

[@chuckrobinson4543]

Very informative and helpful video- thanks for the concise instructions and clear video. Great job.

[@vince6829]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Much appreciated.

[@richardl341]

Thank you for taking the time to make this helpful video.

[@abrelectric]

Awesome! Are you using the info at home or work?

[@danielcleary1072]

Very helpful! Thank you!

[@davidjohnson7956]

😊Excellent video Sir! We’ll done with plenty of useful information.. better than any of the 5 or 6 previously watched presentations. Good life lessons as well😂! Great job!!😊

[@abrelectric]

Thank you! Appreciate that

[@stephborel]

Super helpful! And a good laugh.

[@l.a.eightynine8705]

This video was exactly what I was looking for. Thank you. One little thing for those who don't know about the hot wires going to the gold screws and the neutral wires going to the silver screws on the receptacle.

[@abrelectric]

Awesome! Hopefully I'll have more helpful videos for you!

[@paulaltfornorge]

That was just what I needed to see- thanks!

[@abrelectric]

I am super glad it was helpful

[@maxw2207]

Great video. Thanks

[@johnjohn-ne8fw]

What a great video!

[@audiobrad99]

Actually, I think the NEC calls for 6" minimum from where the cable enters the box and 3" minimum outside the box. And yes, learn to strip wire, split wood, build a house, change a tire, replace a faucet....... 👍

[@larrytoler5528]

No, he was right about the 6" outside the box but I Believe it is more than a 1/4 of insulation inside the box. I'm pretty sure it is a 1/2 inch. I'd have to check

[@audiobrad99]

@@larrytoler5528 NEC Sect 300.14 reads "At least 150 mm (6 in.) of free conductor, measured from the point in the box where it emerges from its raceway or cable sheath, shall be left at each outlet, junction, and switch point for splices or the connection of luminaires or devices. The 150 mm (6 in.) free conductor shall be permitted to be spliced or unspliced. Where the opening to an outlet, junction, or switch point is less than 200 mm (8 in.) in any dimension, each conductor shall be long enough to extend at least 75 mm (3 in.) outside the opening." So, it's 6" from where it enters the box and 3" outside the box.

[@jkljlkhklj]

@@audiobrad99 Not an issue tho... making it 6" (esp cause for a 3.5" deep box you'd have to make it 6.5"!) outside isn't bad practice... only consideration is that if you make it 12" conductor (double the necessary), the conductor counts as two for volume allowances.

[@elpidiolaluan5746]

Pigtail wire should be twisted at the same time with the original lines to avoid overtwisting the conductors that was twisted first without the pigtail.

[@abrelectric]

Absolutely

[@TheElectricalNut]

@@abrelectric you say "absolutely" but yet you didn't do that on any of the three joints you made. Clearly you didn't know that very basic step in pigtailing so how about you thank the person that taught you something instead of just agreeing as if it's something you already knew

[@abrelectric]

@@TheElectricalNut ok

[@abrelectric]

Thank you!

[@abrelectric]

@@TheElectricalNut thank you

[@kimpiercey1485]

That was an awesome video. Thank you. It

[@bradleyb.425]

Great video. Thank you. I have a question and I know very little about electrical. I'm bringing 12 guage wire into a basement kitchenette and finally managed to get the wire to both the breaker box and into the kitchenette. Currently, the whole kitchenette is wired with 14 guage. I've pulled in a dual set of 20 Amp wire. One will be dedicated to the refrigerator and one will power four 20 Amp plugs (2 GFCI, 2 regular). I have a lot of extra 12 gauge wire (the three wires are sheathed in a yellow outer plastic wrap). What's the approach to accomplishing this? Thanks much if you can respond.

[@Hunter-yc4xi]

The only thing I saw that you were doing (kind of wrong) was when you were twisting your wires together, you were twisting the first two wires tight then adding the third wire and twisting it tight, then when you added the fourth wire it was riding up and not blending in with the other wires'. When I twist multiple wires together, I will barely twist the first two together, maybe one full twist, then add the third, again only twisting it one full twist the add the fourth. Then when all the wires are bundled, I will twist them tight and put on the wire nut. Other than that, you do things the same way I do.

[@markmcgoveran6811]

Among construction workers there's a brotherhood of people that have a soul it's good to hear from one of you one of us. I'm hoping you can answer this simple question can I run all of my outlets with 10 gauge and then just pigtail a little chunk of 12 gauge on the end? I know the wire is more expensive but I'm going to buy it off Facebook and probably get it for the same price that they wanted for the new 12 and I like that heavier gauge .

[@vince6829]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

[@MrKimbtube]

Nice and simple but why not describe why you twisted two wires together and then added the third wire before pig tailing. Why not put all three wires together before pig tailing? Personal preference or some other reason?

[@abrelectric]

The first 2 are the in and out power, the 3rd is the jumper to the device. It's really just habit, not a rationale choice :)

[@garymeroff3297]

Thank you very clear and on the money. It helped me very much

[@deej19142]

Back in 1978 when I started wiring houses I was 14 years old. It wasn't until I was like 35 that someone showed me the pigtail method. I have never used any other way since then. It's nice that if an outlet goes bad, power continues right on down the line and can really speed up looking for circuit issues.

[@abrelectric]

'78!? You and Edison rope houses together? :) Thank you!

[@deej19142]

Awesome comment!@@abrelectric

[@surferdude642]

That's 21 years without pigtails, wondering if you had many call backs or failures?

[@abrelectric]

@@surferdude642 For many years, it was accepted practice to use the receptacle to make all of those connections, especially in the days of receptacles that allowed #12 solid stab ins. The workmanship is the real issue. A poorly done pigtail isn't any better than a poorly done receptacle termination.

[@deej19142]

@@surferdude642 Never had a single callback.

[@Subcritical96]

Thank you sir! Great job at teaching!

[@user-iy7bi9mp5d]

I am a DIY’r and will connect two receptacles differently. This is a trick I learned from seeing how an electrician wired a double receptacle box at my house. Make the hot, neutral & ground wires about 12” long coming out of the box. Strip the insulation off the ends of the hot and neutral wires. Then strip about 1/2” of the insulation half way down the hot and neutral wires. The ground wire probably does not have insulation and should not need wire stripping. Wrap the hot, neutral and ground wires around the appropriate screws of the first receptacle at the halfway point where the insulation was removed. Next wrap the striped ends of all three wires around the appropriate screws on the second receptacle. I like this method better than the pigtail method because it does not require wire nuts for the connection of the two receptacles and will keep the download circuit live if there are additional receptacles. If there are additional receptacles downstream, I have kept the run of Romax continuous with 12” coming out of the box. Strip 1/2” of insulation at two appropriate spots on the hot and neutral wires and then wire up the two receptacles the same as stated previously. This wiring method uses absolutely no wire nuts in the box.

[@abrelectric]

Solid wire, right? I have done this making up a 4 plex (2 plugs in a 2g box). Great idea

[@jorgemejia5986]

Great video just what I was looking for. One question though I got a fried that supposedly knows a lot about electricity and he suggested to do ine and load instead. So question is if I have a gfci outlet with line in and loat out or vice-versa can I still do this and go straight into line on new outlet?

[@abrelectric]

Sort of apples and oranges: GFCIs with power in and out, you can pigtail if you have 2 or more load romexes, and attach the pigtail to the load.

[@dawkinss2422]

learned something

[@abrelectric]

Awesome! If you don't mind me asking, what did you pick up?

[@dawkinss2422]

@@abrelectric how to use wire nuts and what they were for

[@pashlitl1253]

Just use Wagos or similar. No need for all that twisting and you can reuse the wire as many times as you want. Wire nuts are the things of the past.

[@johnnytruong2141]

Where can I find those short pigtail wires I need neutral ones and hot ones. The exact ones in this video. If anything please list the names that would help me alot thanks!

[@abrelectric]

I made them, cutting those 6" wires from a piece of Romex

[@johnnytruong2141]

@@abrelectric thank you so much!! I was lucky enough to find some Romex rolled up in the garage and never knew I had them lol!

[@wikked_pissah6295]

If you put a surge protector receptacle in that box would it then protect everything else those sets of wires are going to?

[@abrelectric]

It would protect everything plugged into it.

[@wikked_pissah6295]

@@abrelectric thank you for the reply. I think I asked wrong. Would it then protect another receptacle that it was going to and the things that were plugged into that next receptacle?

[@abrelectric]

@@wikked_pissah6295 if the wiring terminals are arranged as Line and Load, it may protector other devices downstream, like an AFCI or GFCI. Otherwise, it will only be what is plugged in.

[@wikked_pissah6295]

@@abrelectric thank you very much..I appreciate it

[@Kennethshepherd999]

Is there 3 neutral wires in that box and why

[@coolbros2163]

I added a new outlet from an existing outlet that already had two set of wires. So i did exactly like on the video. Months later the wire nut on the hots started melting, any ideas why? Plz it will be so helpful. My brother has a heater connected to it it says 120v 60hz.

[@abrelectric]

Did you twist the wires in that bundle? Are all the wires solid or is it a mix with stranded? Did the wire nut completely cover the stripped copper in the bundle? Are the wires the same gauge or a mix of sizes? How many watts does the heater draw?

[@coolbros2163]

@@abrelectric wires are all the same 3 sets of 12/2, they were twisted but since the box was small ground got a bit loose and one hot was slightly uncovered all the way by the wire nut. I took everything out, put a box with bigger space and used wago wire nuts everything is perfectly tight now.

[@coolbros2163]

Btw the heater manual says it uses 1500 watts

[@abrelectric]

@@coolbros2163 let's see how it holds! Thank you

[@eyehear10]

@@coolbros2163any updates?

[@jrm163]

If this box were serviced multiple times in this way, there would be no wire left in the box that’s long enough to make a connection! And all exist wires would need to be replaced! I don’t think it’s a good practice to randomly cut wires like this, unless it’s really excessive!

[@abrelectric]

Good point. Keep in mind that you don't typically need to do this but every several years. Being conservative with the wire length is a good practice.

[@danielbrowniel]

Ima buy some wagos and use the extra time Im saving to not do anything.

[@abrelectric]

Sound investment

[@Ojeramup12]

Why didn't you twist the 4 wires together instead of 3 first and then the pigtail?

[@abrelectric]

Which 4 wires? We have 3 hots, 3 neutrals and 3 grounds to connect to the receptacle. The pigtail simply connects the 3 wire bundle to the receptacle

[@j.c.8975]

Is it ok to use the Wago 221 connectors, instead of wire nuts ?? I have been using the ECX Milwaukie screwdriver, instead of Phillips, also a #1 Robertson square drive work great as well. Thanks for the video

[@abrelectric]

Absolutely! IMO, if you follow the manufacturer guidelines for your preferred connector, and you make a long-term solid connection, it's a win.

[@stevodakine1]

I'm paranoid; I wrap the receptacle with 33 tape after I tighten down the ones I didn't use.

[@abrelectric]

That's thorough

[@windward2818]

Are pigtails required by code? No. Are they used for good workmanship? Yes. The real advantage for the pigtails, other than disabling the circuit if the receptacle or connection to the receptacle malfunctions, is you can make the pigtails the proper length to fold neatly into the box. The pigtail connection are organized in the box as far to the rear neatly as possible. This gives plenty of space to fold the pigtail wires and fit the receptacle properly in the box as shown in the video. To make installation even easier with the triple Romex into a single duplex receptacle box (which is more than usual unless the receptacle is split), IDEAL actually made a 12 AWG THHN stranded wire dedicated pigtail with a wire nut on one side and a captive spade connector at the other. The flexible stranded wire puts almost no side load force on the screw connections, and the spade fits flat in relation to the base connection and the screw head. Unfortunately they no longer make the Black and White versions of this pigtail, probably due to cost. However, even though they were only used on rare occasions, when needed they worked very well.

[@cryengine_x]

actually they are required by code in my circumstance. currently the wires are daisy chained through the light switch which is against code. by making a pigtail they'll be daisy chained but not through a device.

[@windward2818]

For a duplex receptacle there are screw connections for each single receptacle to support splitting the duplex receptacle into two separately controlled single plug outlets. If you do not split the receptacle, which is obviously very common, then it is tempting to use the "extra" screw connections to make the daisy chain at the receptacle rather than making a spliced pigtail. In the case of a simple SPST wall mounted switch there are only two screw connections for the circuit, and one screw for the ground. I don't know how you would daisy chain at the switch unless you double up on the screw connections, with common rated switches doubling up is a code violation. Is this what you mean? @@cryengine_x

[@cryengine_x]

@@windward2818 i think so, i really dont know about electrical stuff. But there are 3 "line/load" wires going into the (I believe single pole?) switch. Two on the two screws and one in one of the backstabs. So in googling about this apparently they are feeding another switch off this one. Probably there is a switch (actually 3 with one plate) directly across from it on the other side of the wall, I'm guessing thats it. Does that make any sense? I discovered this because I'm trying to put in a smart switch, and although my home is only 23 years old, the switch wiring is as i described not two line/load like their diagram. From what I googled I can make a pigtail off two of the black wires and be ok. they also did not connect the ground wire to the green screw on the switch at all. which evidently in a plastic box is not particularly dangerous, but is still code to do so.

[@windward2818]

So, you have discovered a code violation. Only one wire or termination allowed per screw. You can daisy chain on a non-split receptacle without violating this rule because you have more screw terminations than a wall switch. However, even though you have not violated code, you have not achieved good workmanship, which in the case of the receptacle requires the use of a pigtail. With a wall switch you have no option, you must use a pigtail splice. If you do light industrial AC distribution wiring you will be using a lot of stranded wire in conduit for 20 Amp receptacle branch circuits. So, we also have a workmanship question to ask, that is, can I use a stranded wire underneath a screw. With a solid wire the answer is yes. With a stranded wire the answer is yes, but I don't really see this as a method from the master electricians. The solution is to use stranded wire terminated receptacles that don't have screws, so you can use a standard wire splicing method (like a wire nut or a lever splice (which I don't like)). Some master electricians if faced with using screw terminating receptacles (not the preferred type of device) will use a captive spade terminal (having small nubs and bent up ends so they will not come off if the screw is loose) crimped onto the wire (using a certified crimping tool designed for that particular spade terminal) and then placed under the screw and the screw torqued to specification. I have tried all three methods of screw termination for stranded wire and the one I like is the captive spade terminal and with screw torqued to specification. It just feels correct. Some of my installations are more than 30 years old now using spade terminals and I have never heard of a problem with a loose connection.@@cryengine_x

[@georgevalente4223]

The easiest way to add pigtails is by using WAGO connectors. Takes less time and uses less room in the box...great for DIYer's

[@abrelectric]

Lots of guys like Wagos. They definitely are neater in the box, as you mentioned

[@thomassciurba5323]

I don’t understand how people can think that pigtailing makes troubleshooting easier. Pigtailing introduces another failure point, puts more wire in the box and the fact of the matter is the bus bar on the side of an outlet is not the failure point of the outlet. Sure the screws can loosen. But a wire nut can fall off or be poorly installed too. Poor workmanship can be with how you install wire nuts just as easily as how well you loop a wire around a screw and tighten it. If anything the screws are probably easier for DIYers. There are situations where pigtails are necessary but unless you have to just use the bus bar on the side of the device.

[@Hbosstowing]

Yes it's also seems like extra work and extra point of failure

[@kruks]

All things being equal, I think the average electrician or laymen is more likely going to screw up putting three or four wires on a couple screws than four or five wires in a wago or a tightly wound wirenut. Both can fail, but some methods are easier to get right than others.

[@aquill1]

Anybody notice how bad the new boxes are? Such cheap garbage that break or bend while trying to push cable into the box, especially multiple 12/2.

[@abrelectric]

Yes, I have to pre-punch with needle nose pliers.

[@boeing757pilot]

Yes, I had metal boxes installed in my house. 4x4 metal box with a mud ring.

[@loramouse1]

If you are a teacher you are really bad. putting all the wires together and twisting them all at once makes a better connection. Stabbing wires in the back is legal, a good Electrican will not stab them if they do any service work, the loose connections come from pluging cords in and out which deterates the little metal tab in the outlet.

[@abrelectric]

Absolutely. Watch the video - we're pigtailing to avoid loose connections