Adam Ondra #84: Kneebar - The Downgrader / Beginning 9a

[@isaacpip]

loved the commentary about the route while showing the footage of Adam climbing. Would love to see more of this in the future!!

[@GillyTRippah26]

nice one

[@joji_okami]

i agree. that's the best thing ever. either silence with no stupid music, just the nature sounds and the sounds of the climber and people below or even better the climb with the commentary so we know what's going on the climber's mind.

[@predragdjukic5397]

@@GillyTRippah26 ppppppppp0pppp

[@predragdjukic5397]

@@GillyTRippah26 pp

[@predragdjukic5397]

@@GillyTRippah26 ppppppp0pp0ppppppp

[@alexpopinga2997]

I'm just a baby climber, but when I found a solid kneebar on a route at my highest grade this last weekend and got the send because of it, I felt like I was Adam Ondra! 😆💪🏽

[@colehibbard2851]

If they didn’t show the “5 meters of scramble” he talked about at the beginning I would’ve guessed it’s 7a climbing knowing Adam

[@jasperfeldschuh3644]

I feel like adam ondra sees everything as a knee bar. Next time we are going to find out how he used a kneebar on some 9a slab route 😂

[@TrackpadProductions]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/bl6YqqiMqql5sLc Yeah, about that...

[@thombstones]

I look forward to that! 😂😂😂😂

[@TerjeMathisen]

Knee bars can be really crucial! 39 years ago, in May/June 1981 I climbed the first Norwegian grade 8 (probably 7b or 7c) in Trøndelag, i.e. the county where Flatanger is located. By the seaside in Trondheim there's a cliff which has been used for climbing for more than 50 years, and it had an aid climb (Frühling) through the steepest part. The key to being able to free it was an upside down kneebar very similar to the one Adam used here, it was the only way I could free up an arm to place a Friend #2 in a short crack/pocket. PS. This was of course not the hardest climb in the country, just the hardest near Trondheim!

[@constantinosschinas4503]

7c in 1981 while placing natural protection... respect.

[@TerjeMathisen]

@@constantinosschinas4503 The grade was never verified because nobody tried it for many years, then a block fell out and revealed a new hold which removed the first crux (a long dyno), then it did get a downgrade by the guy who repeated the new & easier version. Finally the rest fell down and the route was gone. I did climb a few harder new routes on the same sea cliff over the next 3 years, but they were all bolted, at least around the crux.

[@julianwinternheimer]

I like the format 👏

[@kzlindsay1]

Completely agree. Almost uncut send footage with voiceover is absolutely perfect. It helps you to grasp how hard the moves are and his psychological experience. Also loved the minimal story at the beginning. Unless it’s an amazing anecdote, it should be kept short like this.

[@arkhust6775]

I really love that there arent many camera switching on the video, and the narration makes it even better. I really enjoyed the climb and the video! It was an insane climb!

[@jetpek-consciousbeing9524]

I like on your videos the simplicity. You share the world of climbing to each other. You're not trying to impress others. You just do what you know the best and thats why i always click on your video. I love the calm and peaceful atmosphere of every video.

[@orbo2999]

That kneebar was spectacular! Really enjoy your videos, I hope I one day stumble upon you around Lake Garda. Keep it up Adam :) shoutout to everyone helping you with those videos too, thank you!

[@MrCynicalNick]

Thanks to your videos, I have started to climb. Thank you for the inspiration and motivation!

[@CrimpingPebbles]

Such a legend! It’s a pleasure to exist in the same reality as him

[@TheNails3]

You explain things brilliantly, Adam! So good to listen to.

[@rasmusblomberg7373]

Arco is such a beautiful place!! Definitely high up on the list of climbing area's to visit :) And, as a tall climber, we love a good kneebar-based send

[@biltongandboba]

And yet Silence is 9C with all those kneebars. I think Silence must be pretty hard.

[@mechanicgray]

Check out Pete Whittaker trying silance.

[@magussma]

@@mechanicgray pete only tried the moves inside the crack within the crux of silence. you could hardly call that trying silence.

[@mechanicgray]

@@magussma lol well he tried part of it.

[@jimothy-johnson]

@@mechanicgray People made more of a fuss about Pete trying it than it actually warranted. He found a potential new beta for the crack section using shoes which would limit a climber in the non-crack sections of Silence (aka the majority of the route). Also he didn't actually start that beta using a transition from the beginning of the route into the crack either so there's no telling if it's even applicable for someone attempting the whole route. While interesting, I don't think it really takes anything away from Silence's difficulty.

[@mechanicgray]

@@jimothy-johnson it definitely doesn't take away from it. I agree.

[@ficklemedia8733]

Ive been watching Adam climb since he first arrived in our media many years ago. He still consistently blows my mind. Thanks for that mate 👌🏼

[@mikestang7]

I just watched Reel Rock 7 last night, I think that's the first big film that had a young Adam Ondra in it (trying to send La Dura Dura). So impressive to follow along his accomplishments.

[@taniastuder9542]

Hi Adam, it’s beautiful to see you climb! Could you walk us through your mental choices of clipping vs. Skipping? How precisely do you calculate that it’s a fall you can afford without touching the ground? or that you are secure enough not to fall there ? or even that the send is more important than security? I’m really curious about what goes on in your mind regarding this, as when I am the one climbing, clipping and above-and-beyond security takes most of my mental power!

[@Tabktopless-z9b]

I think the more you clip the more comfortable you are with it. Then there's less mental energy being wasted and you can focus more on feeling secure.

[@constantinosschinas4503]

if you feel tired but you know there is a good hold some moves above, you skip clip.

[@randomperson8423]

Adam is definitely the king of kneebars

[@AntonioCoachUK]

Thanks for share with us this amazing moment and beautiful places!!

[@TheNails3]

Such an impressive climb, wow!!

[@batman_1st]

Nobody: Adam: so there is this knee bar right there

[@lorenzomutal725]

Loved the commentary!

[@vxxx6783]

You're freaking amazing dude

[@haakonsvanberg8178]

Could you please text everything? As a hearing-impared and not native english-talker, it's not always easy to understand what Adam says. So often I switch to auto-generated english which isn't very accurate at times. Else: great video as always!

[@13pablofdez]

You have english subs available

[@haakonsvanberg8178]

@@13pablofdez Only when they are speaking a foreign language at the end :)

[@emac4d]

@@haakonsvanberg8178 Just click on Czech subs and then go to automatic translation and set it to to your language

[@haakonsvanberg8178]

@@emac4d I know that way, it's just not very accurate :) So If they have time to text it in Czech and halfway in English, it would be nice if they texted it all in English as well :)

[@SleepTightShipOfDrea]

@@emac4d good method if you want to read gibberish

[@joseflittle4493]

Jo jasně. Po 'velkých chytech' (milimetrové lišty a slizké obliny)😂

[@tukifly6446]

Totally agree with you bro 🤣🤣🤣🤣. So funny

[@gnrrrrrrrr]

Adam does the first 8c+ (!!!!) crux as I did the easiest move of my warming up route. Goddamn

[@LemonLimeFlavoured]

Love the commentary!

[@ykyrychynskyi]

Adam "The Kneebar" Ondra.

[@chaosengine4597]

hey! that's my joke! give it back. :)

[@yar7175]

Adam "skip quickdraw" Ondra

[@derultnerlp9319]

Adam "AAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!" Ondra

[@alejand5]

I think he has skipped more quickdraws than he has clipped

[@MsPlaybook]

Literally gives me so much anxiety watch him skip every one at the top

[@jamie6091]

@@MsPlaybook Watching him hang on the knee bars was horrible too, the thought of him swinging into the rock with no helmet

[@camu123789]

Super sick climb man, beautiful video too as always

[@MindRiderFPV]

Bella Adam.

[@jako7281]

Such a great analysis, really insightful for even beginners like me!

[@bongosock]

You do a really good job of telling the story of the climb :)

[@Bran1998]

Great job Adam!

[@k3tna]

That's just speechless.

[@peerreeee]

If Adam asks me to like the video I like the video, no more questions

[@floodo1]

what a kneebar. Nice footage

[@petarchalamov]

Perfect climbing video!!

[@frankwegner303]

King Adam, King of kneebars!!!

[@bocchinicolo1419]

Bellissimo video.

[@rickytrockclimbing2935]

LOVE YOUR HAIRCUT!

[@69treta]

Inspiring!

[@jakesevins5179]

Turn on subtitles at the end if you don't speak Italian!

[@serhiis.2216]

Sempre bene!

[@mirrorhouse586]

I will do a 9a too someday

[@tobi_j1510]

Same bro

[@tobi_j1510]

What's your current max grade how old are you and how long are you climbing?

[@Gavallier]

Lol

[@mirrorhouse586]

@@tobi_j1510 I'm 17 and I'm a beginner, I've been climbing for about two months. At the moment the max grade I can do it's 6a+, I hope I will make progress

[@TornadoGod1]

@@mirrorhouse586 keep going

[@DonatRC]

Holy run out at the end there... How do you know which bolts to skip on the send go when you’re working it? Have you ever had any crazy falls?

[@Cacovangor]

Quick way to approximate safety of a fall is distance above last protection plus ~3ft of slack, 30% stretch of rope in the system, and 1ft belayer lift per 8ft of fall (assuming equal weight partners). Imagine bolts are 8ft apart, thus we skip one, maybe the sixth, meaning our last point of protection is 40ft off the deck, and we blow the clip at 7th or 56ft off the deck. We have

[@akinaridate9233]

Dont try this skipping metode if ur belayer not good,,

[@dexterbjuveus6056]

Great video as usual!

[@emil8069]

Cool Video

[@neo778]

Great entertainment for climbers!

[@VDB420]

Awesome.

[@williambloom350]

Do a video with Magnus!!!

[@fimix92]

I truly hope Stefano ghisolfi comment this video

[@fimix92]

@nb yes i've seen that.. i'd love one more in-depth kind of a comment.. and i sure want to know if that kneebar really downgrade the route in his eyes

[@fimix92]

@nb fair enough.. plus in my humble opinion Adam is the best climber ever, it might be that only he is able to use that effectively

[@steghiso]

When I climbed the route I thought it was something between 9a and 9a+, so I proposed 9a/+. With this new kneebar you have a good rest before the last crux and probably changes a lot. The problem is Adam makes it looks easy to kneebar and release both hands, but I don’t know how hard for legs it actually can be, and maybe not every leg length will fit there. Let's see how the next climbers trying the route will climb it!

[@fimix92]

@@steghiso grazie mille Stefano per la tua analisi e per avermi risposto.. buona fortuna per i tuoi prossimi appuntamenti di world Cup, tifiamo per te!

[@yar7175]

Godlike climbing ) But skipping quickdraws for most of us - very bad and big trouble. Greetings for Adam!

[@Papagayos]

thank you!!!

[@geertweening]

Skipping all that protection makes my hands sweaty

[@ibrahimibm5338]

Who else want to shakehand this guy!

[@LukeSeed]

Music was really good this vid

[@Merrick12345]

Loved the comments!

[@SleepTightShipOfDrea]

limestone... it's wonderful rock, but it gets slippery fast. I'd say these routes will get a lot harder very shortly, possibly even under 10 years from now if they see enough traffic. although I guess depolishing techniques may come to the rescue

[@alexanderbonnet3494]

i think it is artifical climbing , when using kneebar compression on every leg?

[@Alex_DAR_]

Лучший! Сделай пожалуйста русские субтитры. Тебя смотрит весь мир)

[@petrnovota8238]

skvelej napad ta komentovana cesta

[@CantTalkImRiding]

Pretty dang cool with that kneebar beta. Skipping that many clips looks sketchy, even the belayer mentions it. Who would yell at Adam to CLIP! CLIP! Do you call out your climber for skipping clips?

[@LosPicosHermanos]

Ok ... What we can learn of this video is : " Do not clip any quickdraw, never !"

[@matonni7]

Sometimes it's really better to skip one than trying to clip in a weird position from a bad hold...

[@LosPicosHermanos]

I was joking :)

[@smuir6104]

You make it look so easy, amazing simply amazing. So how many tries did it take you in the end to work it all out?

[@shaquicedacosta]

FYI... When I select English (UK) nothing shows up. The English (auto) does work. Can’t comment on Czech subtitles.

[@melkorWTF]

Casually only clipping every third draw. That would scare the shit out of me as a climber or a belayer.

[@hankmoody6636]

He also uses an 8.9mm rope according to another video of his which makes it even more crazy.

[@Cacovangor]

Be mindful, plenty of bolts on harder routes, in particular overhanging, are working bolts or were for bolting on lead, thus not positioned for safety exactly. Having working bolts is nice to clip while sequencing a crux, but if the stance is strenuous or the drag is substantive then skipping is good beta as long as the fall remains safe. As to rope diameter, an 8.9 is skinny but the amount of run through a device isn’t drastic, and any concern for safety is from a lack of understanding of UIAA ratings. Most folks retire a sport rope from sheath wear or core shot at the ends causing you to chop a rope too short to be usable, which an 8.9 has a shorter lifespan but basic inspection is essential for all ropes and will keep you atop any issues.

[@pocanontas9242]

hey! where is the pterodactyl screams??

[@jaxinvanderkallen8402]

yo sick climb!

[@elilivezey7884]

does anyone know what rope he is using?

[@wolftree9668]

Tendon probably.

[@kunx104]

adams got a big adams apple

[@gwayav9]

He could find a kneebar in Burden of Dreams.

[@frankh3057]

😂😂

[@EveryoneHarmonyPeace]

Adam Ondra: Look, There's a Kneebar!! Other climbers: Where?? Adam Ondra: There!! Another!! Other climbers: WTFDaFa!!!

[@PeteSilveira]

Why not a drone view?

[@lacokorbel]

...we were using 2 camera operators on the ropes and 1 from the side. Fourth camera was on the tripod on the ground. And drone was little bit complicated to fly becasue trees. Anyway we prefer to have a good sound. But don´t worry I can tell you that in next epizode we used the drone to make a beautiful shots of AO climbing for you...

[@PeteSilveira]

Laco Korbel thank you for technical response Anyway keep up the good work See you next Monday

[@lukefoster927]

Could anyone find the recent comp live stream

[@clementg9754]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/l6bVn6JobbZnmaM The IFSC world cup final in Briançon ?

[@mexicanprizefighter]

And ZERO mention of the Send Downgrader knee pads he is wearing? I understand sponsorship obligations but C’MONNNN!!!!

[@megatonante]

isn't it dangerous to knee bar upside down? you slip and you hit the head. also do you need knee pads to do knee bars?

[@satanaz]

he's using knee pads, so it is AID climbing

[@dravislion5688]

@@satanaz yeah totally, adam shouldn´t even wear climbing shoes - what an imposter!!

[@skilllessbeast7416]

If the belayer gives him a soft catch he shouldn't hit the wall with full force. And to answer your second question. If your pain tolerance is high enough you probably technically don't need knee pads, but they are at least recommended.

[@trezapoioiuy]

@@satanaz Yeah and he uses climbing shoes boooh and chalk. How's your barefoot unaided climbing going?

[@onnmagber4795]

@trezapoioiuy whoosh

[@stefanofrancola2577]

So the kneebar downgrade it from 9a/+ to 9a?

[@maligod2439]

Ostias el de la resistencia

[@outdoorworld9912]

Adam do you work the 9b?

[@anthonyroy30]

i dont see how that was a 9a ??

[@TheNails3]

Moral of the story: always look for the kneebar!

[@Furansowakun]

So scary if you fall during a knee bar like this with your head down

[@ΧριστίναΑλειφεροπούλου]

Come to Greece 🇬🇷

[@jasperfeldschuh3644]

lol to adam ondra a 5 meter scramble probably has a bunch of v5 moves in it

[@Bobbzorzen]

comment for the algorithm

[@siuseki]

Getting anxious from seeing Adam skip multiple clips :P

[@noahk1031]

Sick.

[@tomrunge5232]

3rd time watching

[@soy6678]

he is my model

[@zbkWOW]

No one: Become the best climber then create a channel to inspire ppl to climb Andra: hold my beer

[@anthill4623]

St. Anger? Isnt that st. mettalica's worst album?! lol

[@zakzwijn8410]

3:28 Wait what

[@Defekcija]

the neck

[@peterparker-qz1fw]

This guy makes a kneebar on 1 atom sticking out

[@johannielsen463]

Support

[@isaccocasalini7233]

gg

[@andersrokne6172]

Adam Ondra probably knee bars the stairs

[@blaimcgowan]

Sweaty hands in 3, 2, 1...

[@spicts1671]

he justr skipped like 3 draws but ok