Adam Savage's One Day Builds: Foot Switch-Powered Shop Tools!

After returning from a recent stint helping out at Tom Sach's workshop, Adam is inspired to add foot pedals to power his shop tools! He starts by adding a foot pedal to activate his mini tabletop bandsaw, rewiring the power switch to route this new switch and making that tool more convenient and satisfying to use. Quite the worthwhile upgrade!
Shot by Adam Savage and edited by Norman Chan
Music by Jinglepunks
Closed captioning and descriptive audio track provided by the Described and Captioned Media Program (DCMP); learn more at dcmp.org
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Intro bumper by Abe Dieckman
Thanks for watching!
#adamsavage #onedaybuilds #workshop

[@BumblingSailor]

"I probably won't need strain relief" *drags foot switch around shop by wire* 😂😂😂 don't ever change, Adam.

[@andrewgordonjardine2632]

Love the idea, but...could have just added a stuffing gland at the ingress point, plus earth the box

[@williambgrd8911]

Was gonna say the exact same thing ! Laughed a lot while seing that !

[@oreubens]

Also... those zip ties are nowhere near tied tight enough

[@AlagomSwede]

He said "This is not a harsh environment". I would say, by the way he weathers his props, its among the harshest of environments XD

[@sathos]

@@andrewgordonjardine2632 likely not needed as many mains power tools are earthed to their own chassis, thats why even in the UK where the fully earthed electrics are the basic standard now, you will still find mains drills and so on often only have live and neutral in the plug if you crack it open.

[@phuzzygreene]

Props to the editing team. Love the enhanced *Bandsaw Noise* wave form presentation.

[@acidhelm]

I appreciated how the time code in Premiere matched the time code in the KZbin video.

[@SpaceSoups]

17:13 Not sure if it want's me to applaud, or it things the bandsaw is applauding, or maybe both?

[@crystalsoulslayer]

I'm always grateful when the editor takes the time to compress the loud noises. It seems like such a small thing until you watch a video where that hasn't been done and you have to scramble for the volume controls so you don't wake the entire house. @@SpaceSoups KZbin's subtitle generator tends to think machines are either [applause] or [music]. Occasionally, you might get various thoughtful and/or confused noises -- "hmm" and "uh", for example. Interestingly, I've never seen it think a tool is [screaming].

[@aaro_n]

I love this. After working in a couple of factories I've learned workers seem to like foot switches and managers hate them due to safety reasons

[@cavemanvi]

i heard of a guy on a drill press panic when he drilled through his thumb and didnt get off the switch

[@Rufio1975]

Seems like it would be quicker to step off the switch in an emergency vs having to look for the switch and flip it while in a panic.

[@Rufio1975]

@@isthatjake Yup.

[@ethan91002]

​@Juan Martinez I'm a fan of the emergency off buttons at forehead level lol

[@Rufio1975]

@@ethan91002 Lol. I guess that would work also. Headbutt it.

[@thegamingeconomist3831]

Nice video and love that you showed how easy this is to do! But... The third wire should be used for ground and connected to the metal housing at the switch end, and connected to the ground and casing at the machine end. This will provide operator protection against a live short anywhere in the system. This is especially important where you are physically connecting two parts of your body to a device (insulated boots or otherwise) with live current and potentially providing electricity with a route passing through your heart. Some kind of rubber grommet should also be used to provide at least some protection against spilled liquids and swarf from entering the switch body and causing shorts.

[@adamdowney]

When he said, I’m sure you’ve been yelling at the screen the whole time, I thought well at least he heard me, but I was in my head yelling about grounding long before he figured out the relay lol. I’m not an electrician, so don’t take my advice, but if this was a project I was doing for me, my two cents on his wiring are this: • Take a 15’ 3 prong extension cord of the appropriate gauge wiring. Measure about 3’ from the female end of the wire and cut it off. • Install appropriate strain relief clamp to open end of electrical box on foot switch, pass both cut ends of cable into box and strip all wires. • Male plug on an extension cord brings in power to the switch. •Female end of an extension cord leaves the switch. You plug in any devices using the foot switch to this. • Inside the foot switch box: ° Combine the two neutrals with a wire nut and electric tape it up. ° Connect the power in (black cable) from the male extension cord to the input of the foot switch, the one closest to the foot pedal. ° Connect the black cable from the female extension cord to the middle lug (the normally open lug) ° Ground the metal box junction box and combine all grounds with a wire nut and tape together like you did the neutral wires. This should bring three ground wires together. • Gently remove excess slack from electrical box as appropriate, and firmly secure tension relief, being carefully not to over tighten and crush cables. Doing it the way I described allows you to be able to easily plug/unplug devices so you can use it around the shop as desired. It should give some degree of safety in case a cable comes lose and shorts to the metal box and energizes the metal foot switch. It should also allow you to retain the use of the existing on/off switch or your device so you can turn it off there when not using and not accidentally step on the switch to energize the machine. I was somewhat disappointed that a person I see being generally safe and thinking through their problem solving was otherwise pretty unsafe in this video with their wiring approach. A lot of people watch these and regardless and copy your instructions.

[@richardh6964]

@@adamdowney the lack of grounding is his choice given it’s a private shop but he is also doing a video on electrical wiring so I feel he shouldn’t ignore it either for the sake of giving good information. I am also not a fan how he strips back the cable sheathing as it’s much better to cut down the sheathing and pull it apart than across it and risk cutting into the wires but at least he addresses the need to be careful when doing that.

[@camerons.8322]

It looks like he wired it in place of the old switch. Do we know if the old switch was wired in-line with AC power, or was it just a leg off the bandsaw's built in switch mechanism? I'm asking because I assume the built in switch is a relay and doesn't need grounding protection.

[@Sommertest]

Agree… ground fault protection won’t work if there isn’t a ground attached.

[@SomeGuysGarage]

Seriously, who wants to call the San Fran electrical inspector to check out Adam's death shop?

[@rawf22]

Shows safety feature by climbing on rolling chair and work bench. Love it!

[@bryan-nz]

Not sure if that switch is switching directly on mains, but if it is, with a metal enclosure it probably would've been sensible to use the ground wire too 🤔

[@spiranomad]

I was thinking the same thing, but I realized he's basically replacing a rocker switch.

[@SeanBZA]

@@spiranomad Yes but still a class 1 mains appliance, so it really needs to be grounded, so that if say tramp metal gets in through that missing gland, and shorts out the wires, the GFCI would operate before Adam becomes a glow in the dark ornament.

[@MSP_TechLab]

​@@SeanBZA I almost sure that there was a bolt inside that pedal for earth wire.

[@SeanBZA]

@@MSP_TechLab There is, I have even seen the grounding bolt position on pneumatic foot switches, because there are areas which they are used in that are required to be intrinsically safe, and thus, even though there is no electric connection, there is still a risk of a spark arising, so all metal in those areas needs to be ground bonded. Even the all plastic bodied ones have the moulding in them to accept a ground wire, just to hold it in position to carry through the chain.

[@jimk5307]

Right, the pedal had a ground lug and it wasn’t used. Not a great practice, especially after the lecture on nicking insulation… Funny that it was actually equal or extra effort to not use it after he added the spade connector and later cut it off.

[@roryevans5032]

Adam/Tested, the wiring as you have shown it in that switch box is unsafe, as no earth connection is made to the metal enclosure. A fault in the switch or wire, or debris entering the box could cause the housing to become live risking electrocution to the operator. I appreciate that this is more regulated in Europe than America due to the higher voltage, and that this failure is unlikely, but there is still risk of harm. Apart from that I like that this is more safe than typical rocker switches as it acts like a deadman switch.

[@januszkszczotek8587]

From a European standpoint, electricity in the US is like looking into the stone age...

[@jimk5307]

@@januszkszczotek8587 I’ll get back to you on that, first gotta go fly a kite in a thunderstorm. ⚡️

[@haywardhaunter2620]

Even in the U.S., that metal box should be grounded. And once he screwed it to the floor, I bet it became a building code violation.

[@januszkszczotek8587]

@@jimk5307 😂

[@nickrivera2391]

A couple others have said it, but I would definitely feel more comfortable if that pedal was grounded. Especially without a regular strain relief in place to isolate the cord movement from the connections, there’s a lot of potential for the wires or crimps to work themselves loose or wear through the insulation over time. [Not an electrician, but a commercial coffee equipment tech] Also, did I spy a box of Knipex goodies back there?

[@Tmhlink]

the spade lugs can also work loose.

[@justincheger]

I would have added a cord to plug into the wall and the a cord to plug in the tool that way the foot switch is more universal and can be use with almost any tool if needed. This would also not require an modification to the existing tool. I love this build and this is a great idea.

[@branchandfoundry560]

Great idea!

[@vonSaufenberg]

The wiring on this is definitely a safety risk. Any metal part that could get into contact with mains voltage should be grounded. The Ground wire should be longer than the mains wire to ensure it is the last wire to loose contact to what it is grounding. Not having a proper strain relieve can also be a fire hazard as dust and metal chips make their way into the housing of the switch. I strongly urge you to revisit this especially because this is something people might do at home.

[@editguy666]

Immediately pulling the "not necessary" strain relief to the test! LOVE IT!

[@user-neo71665]

As an electrician, HOOK THE DAMN GROUND WIRE UP If you just get a heavy duty extension cord and put the foot switch in it then you don't have to rewire your tools. Bonus you can use one switch on many tools.

[@Etna.]

I love to watch US shop wiring. Here in Germany we would use a Motor Safety Switch with a separate connection for an external switch or at least a relais so the footswitch wouldn't see the full power of the motor all the time. Regards, Etna.

[@whatbroicanhave50character35]

Man you'd go absolutely insane if you looked at some of the residential wiring here in the states, specifically in rural areas. A lot of houses in my area that were built in the 50s and 60s show huge amounts of electrical incompetence. For example, in my bedroom when I was 15, I could take the chain for the light in the ceiling fan, touch it to the slightly exposed metal base of the light bulb, and the light would turn on. One whole half the house was wired to a single 15 amp circuit breaker as well. That's not to mention our actual standards. You couldn't try to design a plug that's more unsafe than what we use. Then we use extension cords with thin little wires in them. They get warm if you plug anything too big into them. Our 220 setups are usually a bit safer with locking plugs (no insulation on the base of the prongs though) and the plugs themselves aren't usually in easily accessible places.

[@6roadwarrior9]

Normally that is the case but this portable bandsaw is only 120V

[@Etna.]

@@whatbroicanhave50character35 I think that is why I binge r/electricians. Regards, Etna.

[@baggedandblown]

Same here over in Australia, American electrical seems bonkers and 30 years behind the rest of the world.

[@jonlarch]

Attaching the green wire to the metal frame would be recommended.

[@jukkakoljonen7223]

Just can't believe how doesn't Adam hurt himself or brake the tools as there is always a great amount of fiddle going on 😂 Master level of controlling the chaos.

[@ballzmckgee3167]

He hurts himself all the time haha

[@codygooch510]

It’s normal every day stuff for most of us. Also we do get hurt lol

[@joyopd]

Hey Adam. I'm not sure about US standards, but in EU, that metal box should be grounded. Also, installing cable through threaded hole without cable gland is risky. That cable gland would cost you maybe a single dollar, but it would act as strain relief , dust plug (metal dust under saw) and it will protect outer isolation against cutting on that thread. Same for the other end on saw. You have a nice strain relief for supply cable but not for switch?

[@docsavage6156]

Great build and very useful. Not to mention potentially safer. But you took a tool that was largely portable and made it so that it's now stuck in place. I can imagine re-engineering this so that it's modular. You have a semi-portable tool like the bandsaw that has two modes. Can be used normally with the existing switch, but has a bypass mode what uses the foot-switch. Then rather than hardwire the foot-switch, make it a modular plug. Now you have a foot-switch station that you can swap out the tool on the top of it. All you have to do going forward is to pop a plug-in module to a new tool, and you can plug it into the foot-switch. You could even take it a step further, and remove the flip-switch, and just make modular flip-switches that could plug into where foot-switch goes so that you wouldn't need the by-pass. Or as someone suggests below, put the power in-line with the foot-switch, and then just use a power-cord wth an on/off if you want to use the tool w/o the foot-switch. But I guess that's another one-day build. Or too. Thanks for the brain food!

[@lburton874]

He has a second small bandsaw that is fully portable (it’s showing in another video).

[@Mike-the-Jedi]

Love the continuous evolution of the mini bandsaw. Who knows where it will go next.

[@PatrickPease]

More power, bigger wheels, a visit to a foundry to have a larger table made

[@BG_MillerPhoto]

One of my favorite "shop hacks" for stripping wire I learned from FIL, a sewing seam ripper. It works on a lot of gauges and is an easy, safe way to strip the outer sheath.

[@RedHillian]

That's a great idea; I have plenty of seam rippers about, so I'll be reaching for one of them next time I'm stripping some cable!

[@bob9802]

I will need to try that. Awesome idea

[@ethannorton564]

I especially liked the part where adam used the band saw to fix the bandsaw

[@robevans8555]

Lol i laughed at that too, seems like he forgot he was working on a bandsaw 🤣

[@maxmeier3550]

Thank you for making your equipment safer, but I think you confused neutral and ground. Also, please land the ground on both ends.

[@sillywabbit]

Adam "dont need strain relief" Adds strain relief, then swings the peddel around the shop by the wire xD love it.

[@brandonyoung-kemkes1128]

When Adam dropped the foot switch and said “that’s enough out of you“. It reminded me of how I like to verbally quiet the ovens at work when they’re blaring ”I’m done”! Like I walk up going “all right, all right geez Calm down”.

[@peterkallend5012]

I use that striping trick myself, it's especially effective when the outer insulation is cold because the act of bending the cable after the initial knife scoring will actually do the stripping for you, and it happens much faster because it's a bit more brittle. It was extremely useful when stripping low voltage data cable for outside, in ground pool automation systems.

[@Rufio1975]

Sounds like what I do. I bend the cable and start cutting slowly. That pressure causes it to finish pulling the insulation apart when you cut away enough of it without having to actually cut all the way through. Then you just pull it from the end and it slides off with a little effort.

[@richardh6964]

Try cutting along the cable lightly then pull the inner wires apart from the cable starting at the end. It’s fast and for all but the heaviest cable works very well.

[@peterkallend5012]

@@richardh6964 there's a good reason why electricians use wire stippers. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Reinventing the wheel here.

[@richardh6964]

@@peterkallend5012 I learned that trick from a electrician.

[@peterkallend5012]

@@richardh6964 good for you. I don't know any electrician that use that technique. Low voltage wires are likely to break if you do that kind of thing, as the copper conductor has a lower tensile strength that the insulation that surrounds the internal wires. I'm of the opinion that if there's the possibility of breaking the continuity of the wires, don't do it. Cheers.

[@efenili]

Im gonna start putting random old/new/weird shop items on eBay in the hopes that one day Adam buys one and features it on Tested :D

[@ErusIluvatar]

"I don't need strain relief!" → Proceeds to drag the switch around by the cord 🤣

[@Max-xl3ml]

I do bicycle fabrication and the shop I work in has foot switches on all the drill presses, grinders and belt Sanders. It's definitely my favorite little feature because you can start and stop all the tools while holding your Steel or Ti tubing with both hands.

[@TheDOS]

Lol eBay is onto you, most already $250 (other similarly rugged kinds down to about 40, but without the kick protection)

[@6roadwarrior9]

You used the non insulated part of the crimper on insulated stake-one. The crimper has a “non” written on it for non-insulated crimping application and an”ins” written on it for insulated applications like the blue stake-ons that we’re used that have plastic coverings. You should have used a strain relief out the back of the switch to avoid having the cord rub the threaded hole the cord goes through, also if the switch is kicked away or being held by the cord the terminations will be put under strain now. The green wire should be used to ground the body of the switch.

[@Theremoore]

Not grounded. I'm not a safety sally, but I would not stick my foot in that ungrounded foot electrocusion box. I'd advice Adam to not mop the floor around it.

[@theGentec]

Sooo, i hate to be a buzzkill here but i have some concerns: Since i already had a case in my environment where a hobbyist installation nearly killed someone, Please at least add a disclaimer that anything with mains voltage should only be done by a professional. As others already pointed out: the missing ground on the metal enclousure could be dangerous. And regarding the strain relief: there is a threading where you put the cable through, this is for a cable gland.

[@cemx86]

I was thinking that Adam was going to make this foot switch "universal" for use with any of his tools rather than "dedicated" (permanently attached) to one tool. A universal foot switch would have a (male) plug 🔌 providing power into the switch and a (female) duplex outlet to send power to any tool. Note: You only switch the hot (black) wire. Green and white wires would simply pass through the housing. My $0.02.

[@jdinnis]

Couple things. You should really get some proper strain relief on that cord. All cords need strain relief and those zip ties are not a great solution. It's a $0.30 part from the hardware store. You also need a ground to the chassis of that switch. Any time you have 110 or 220 VAC in a metal enclosure, you NEED a ground to protect you from the case getting electrified. This is most likely to happen if you don't have proper strain relief and one of the wires pulls out of it's crimp connector. Safety Third.

[@scholberger]

I love the little editing flourishes that pop up here and there in these videos. They really add a lot of charm!

[@JosephDavies]

Sometimes they can be a bit jarring for me, but I do like the cuts that allow Adam to warp across spacetime instantaneously. For some reason those are immensely satisfying, especially when cleaning or gathering. It's a 4th-dimensional montage sequence!

[@shadowscion]

There is something really funny about so nonchalantly screwing a foot pedal into the floor at the base of a rolling cart.

[@kg4gav]

I use footswitches all the time, for all sorts of different applications. When I was a 911 dispatcher, we had foot switches to key up the radio and muting the phone, so that both hands were open for typing. In my present life as a broadcast engineer, I have wired them for resetting countdown timers for TV break control, for triggering video switcher transitions, and intercom. Usually the intercom is hot all the time, so in that use case, it acts a a mute or 'cough drop' so you don't cough of send too many expletives down the line!

[@TheWoodruffnavy]

Harbor freight has foot switches for 14.99

[@GoingApeCostume]

My Dremel is hooked up to a switch pedal that's older than I am, and I'm not a young'un! Dad got it for me at a yard sale for two dollars. LOVE that thing.

[@littlehills739]

liking this idea

[@GoingApeCostume]

@@littlehills739 Foot pedals are great for machines with variable speed motors. You can just buy them.

[@littlehills739]

@@GoingApeCostume ....You can just buy them...... u cant just buy something you havent thought about or been exposed to. thanks for your input. like if you dint know the name to a "Chicago bolt" to make a paracord fib.

[@stellamcwick8455]

Metal foot switch, doesn’t terminate the safety ground. Insurance company gonna love this.

[@ReverendTed]

Adam: "I'm not too worried about strain relief." Also Adam: 13:16

[@tylerbarnes7628]

Harbor freight foot switch works just fine for a portaband. Been using nine for a couple years now. Great 20 dollar investment and no wiring required. Just plug it in.

[@bob9802]

I like the foot pedals. I am looking forward to my future shop setup and installing some. I think the shop would be a little safer if the tools and metal switch housings were grounded. Especially either the lack of ingress protection for metal swarf. I also appreciate the 8 drawers being open below the band saw, just enough to collect a good percentage of chips from the saw.

[@Theexplorographer]

Ya mind sharing a link to the footswitch on ebay? Or at least your search terms? Because I am only seeing old overpriced used ones for sale.

[@JustinArrington]

I love that Adam is the perfect mix of mad scientist and Actual scientist. His builds are epic!

[@idrivea911]

Me: Yelling at screen about the wrong Common terminal Adam: "You were yelling at your screen. I apologize." Me: ...

[@Silkari]

Hahaha!, Love it: I was literally yelling at the screen to connect the common to the normal closed, then he spoke to me. Love this foot switch, I want one… I guess I need space for a workshop first 😅

[@donnielsen5334]

In addition to the “bandsaw noises” caption I think it’s time to add a “adjusting camera noises” caption. The sound of the phone/camera holder being adjusted over and over and over and over drives me nuckin’ futs. But I keep watching ….

[@UncleManuel]

"Should be done in 30 minutes. HAH!" Yeah yeah, famous last words in any project... 😂😁😇🤟

[@marcsr71]

Foot switch series, disc and belt sander, grinder, Snapple fountain, vacuum...

[@electronaut2424]

Earth is not connected to "com". Earth must be connected to the metal chassis. "live" to common and "return wire" (or how you say in usa. And you should use a real skintop as strainreleif. This installation would not be approved here in europe.

[@shawn_yates]

I see you are using old-school wire connectors. Do yourself a solid and try the Wirefy heat shrink connectors and crimp tool. They changed my life!

[@n2darkness]

Hope we see a "ODB" for the Relicmaker Krull Glaive seen sitting on the work bench!

[@meulk]

That cover plate would be going straight in the bin

[@appearoffline3703]

Adam your electrical work is horrendously irresponsible and dangerous. Too many violations to count.

[@-vermin-]

You should have earthed that metal case. It is not double insulated. Also some ratcheting insulated lug crimpers are a worthwhile investment.

[@pittyandroid]

Adam, i've got 2 words for ya. "Jokari knife" you will like it and i never saw you using one of these.

[@m-s.t.l9386]

It bugs me that you use the die for uninsulated crimps instead of the portion for insulated crimps.

[@yuricorrea2491]

Adam, as you like mobility in your shop, I'd put a conector between the bandsaw and every pedal you install. This way you can move it around and even have multiple pedals around the shop that you just connect to the tool you need wherever you want. Thanks for the video!

[@dirtdart81]

That really breaks the "walk to the tool and use it" need

[@JosephDavies]

@@dirtdart81 It does, but only if he doesn't have enough of them. Making them modular could be a little extra flexibility and still end up being stable for the high-use machines.

[@dirtdart81]

@@JosephDavies just add them to the high traffic machines then? I'd hate to interrupt my flow to go find a footswitch

[@Gu1tarZer0]

"this one is common" doesn't connect the ground bruh lmao this was me when I was like 14

[@paulcobb5034]

I can’t find these foot oedals here in the uk, not with the kick up door anyway - any links to product?

[@maggs131]

I could see Adam hooking a foot switch to an outlet so things like a dremel can be feets operated

[@Akimos]

I need some water after this, what a scary mess.

[@alanh5000]

Having a footswitch screwed to the floor connected to a device on a cart on rollers definately calls for strain relief at the footswitch.

[@stagger19]

Adam you really need a bushing where the wire enters the switch. Over time that sheathing can wear away and cause a short in one of the wires.

[@ahbushnell1]

No ground connection. Very bad. You are teaching bad dangerous habits.

[@Revlemmon]

I'm no electrician but shouldn't the pedal be grounded?

[@srwapo]

Climbing up on the work bench to show off the safety of the foot switch...

[@brunel5596]

Hi Adam, electrical engineer here, I mean no disrespect but this is simply not safe. You MUST ground the metal case of the footswitch with the green wire on the cord, and connect it at the saw end to the ground coming in from the outlet. If you only have a 2-wire power cord to the plug, replace it with a 3-wire one. You MUST screw a proper cable gland into the threaded cable entry on the footswitch, not only to clamp the cable, but also to prevent it from rubbing on the metal and getting damaged. And you should do something similar at the saw end - I can see there's already a gland on the power cord. Finally, it is not good practice to have mains electrical connections inside a wooden enclosure, as you have at the saw, because it can burn. You should put the switch and cable glands into a small plastic or metal box (ground the box if it's metal) , and screw that to the wooden saw stand. I can tell you did this in a hurry as you are excited about footswitches, but skimping on electrical safety is never acceptable. Please don't hesitate to contact me if you need any more advice.

[@anonymous5405]

Cable glands…?

[@rcsracing98]

Anyone have a link for the yellow type with the boot-friendly cover?

[@garnold16]

I'd love to see you wire up a Ghostbuster's style foot switch for some sort of vacuum. I have to imagine you have an extra foot switch laying around. :) This is awesome!

[@shadow111d]

oh we saw that krull glave, you cant hide it from us!!!

[@0TheChariots0]

For the large cable stripping, at work we use a Joraki cable knife that works wonders. They are pricey for a simple function tool but they are a godsend if you have to strip thicker cable often.

[@pieter-matthijsbolt6375]

They have a 20,- version that works really good. I had it aswell. Saves you sooo much time getting a cable sheath of. Cleaner cut also!

[@pieter-matthijsbolt6375]

Jokari number 35.

[@Gatnic]

I had a foot switch for my brights in my truck back in the day.

[@acidhelm]

The ground conductor in that cable: Am I a joke to you?

[@LightBranches]

It needed a Wilhelm scream at the end of the Bandsaw Noises section.

[@Mortifier21]

I hope Tom responds "this is the way" to you at the end of the video if he watches it.

[@scottjohnson1698]

Make a foot switch with plugs that you can use with any machine

[@CheveeDodd]

I might have to pick up a few of these for my shop!

[@underwoodblog]

⚠⚠ no grounding and no strain relief = no safety. ⚠⚠

[@nicholascervone4734]

To a foot switch on your sander would be awesome as well

[@rowansinger3876]

Thank you for adding strain relief.

[@PhonyBread]

For the love of god, please please earth that thing!

[@tkskagen]

How do you feel about "Variable Speed" Foot Switches? I have one for my (used to be my Father's) 1983 120V ROCKWELL DELTA 7-Speed Drill Press. Being able to vary your foot pressure (compared to moving the belt) is great for different materials! Having Rubber Feet on the bottom helps keep it in place as well!

[@zehnra]

IDEAL makes a "Li'l Ripper" Romex wire stripper that effectively works like a seam ripper but for heavier plastic that jackets electrical wire. I highly recommend checking it out if you haven't. I used it when I did all the wiring for my bathroom remodel a few years ago and it's been in my tool bag ever since.

[@MrBrokenn]

Adam, you should really take a took on cable strippers like Shtok SI-13 Jokari Allrounder Jokari #14 or #15 Knipex KN-1664125SB Haupa Allrounder to take the external isolation off round cables. There are also similar models for "flat" cables can be in other shapes

[@TheOldBlackCrow]

IDK if it's more comforting to see you fumble/rush around your shop like me or not. But it's nice to know I'm not the only one. 😃

[@Knight8365]

Hey Adam; noted the band saw is on a roller trolley and light enough to be portable, but the foot switch is bolted to the floor. If you like, you could have the foot switch in the power line, and add two inline connectors of the same type such that if you want to move the saw and use it else where, the foot switch can be unplugged and the power can go straight to the saw. But then you're going to need to connect up the rocker switch again and remember to have that on while using the foot switch. Just a thought

[@csimet]

I have them on both my drill press and band saw (TEMCo CN0357). They are important safety features on top of their undoubted convenience. IMHO... Like the leg/knee paddle switches on my table saw, router table and jointer... any tool that requires both hands to operate should have an easy way to shut off power in the event of an issue without needing to let go of the workpiece.

[@RhynoD2]

15:30 "It's terrible how much dust is in there!" Me, without any real dust collection or management in my woodshop: 😬

[@RambozoClown]

They make a great cable stripper for that kind of multi-core cord. It has adjustable depth and will rotate 90 degrees to slit the cover for easy removal.

[@eddiekalista3222]

Watching you work in your shop is like looking into a mirror when I'm working on my musical gear. All the ADHD pinballing, all the train-of-thought jumps. Thank you for making me feel like I'm not super crazy.

[@velho6298]

It looks like Adam is in a hurry 😅

[@SharkyMoto]

i use a jokari stripping tool, its made specifically to do that task and it even got wire strippers in it too (allthough i use the dedicated wire stripper of them too). its a great and inexpensive tool to have! (Jokari UNI-Plus, 25€)

[@DogswithRich]

What drill is that you are using? Is that an impact drill? Why do you prefer it over a standard Dewalt 20V Max electric drill? Thanks? 😃

[@AxelDominatoR]

Really cool project! Minor thing: when you crimp connectors you should not twist the conductors as it creates a weak point immediately behind the crimped area that's prone to failure due to vibrations.

[@assassinlexx1993]

That is a myth. If a proper installed that crimp doesn't fail.

[@AxelDominatoR]

@@assassinlexx1993 Twisting has at least two negative effects: first it increases the cross-section of the wire, which results in over-crimping and possible damage to the wire. Aside from that, disturbing the lay of the strands weakens the structural integrity of the cable, especially in environments with high vibrations. This is also true for wires that are already made of twisted strands: loosening or tightening the lay will change the rated strength. The above may not be critical if you're doing it at a hobbist level, but in other environments it makes a difference big enough for it to be discouraged.

[@assassinlexx1993]

@@AxelDominatoR Ha ha spoken like engineer student. But in the real world you give the those tiny strands a twist to keep them all together. One little strand caught out could short out. In a mill you have thousands of crimped wires. How you lay in the cables with wrappings is key to vibrations.

[@AxelDominatoR]

@@assassinlexx1993 I worked as a technician on equipment (automotive industry) where crimped connections had to be made according to those guidelines or else they would not pass certification. Every crimp had to be examined carefully and if you had strands caught out you chopped off the crimp and started again. That's the real world if you want something reliable and certified. Or if you care about details.

[@Pup_Pryde]

one thing i dont think even adam has thought about, he said he probably doesnt need a switch with the fancy cover however i think he'll enjoy it tremendously once that cover starts to scuff and show through. it'll have so much more character at that point, and we know adam loves a tool with character.

[@tomwyrick2824]

OMG 😲 😱 can't believe you dragged the pedal around by the cord with no strain relief! Dude! If your going to do shit like that you should at least knot the cord on the inside and ground it for God sake! If you ever have water on the floor say burst pipe or spilled big gulp, you'll wish you had!! Both of those are at least as important as the striping of the sheath that you spent so much time emphasizing!

[@89ludeawakening1]

OMG it had my OCD driving me crazy how he was working on the saw with it sitting on the side cutters, and it was rocking back and forth. I was screaming "PLEASE TAKE IT OFF THE CUTTERS" in my head. Lol

[@undefined40]

Shouldn't metal casings be grounded?

[@bandittwothree3765]

yes, it should. Any metal chassis a human can touch should be earthed.

[@SassInYourClass]

10:03 “Oh wait. I’m sorry. It’s because I’m a dummy. That’s- that’s the common. Yeah, you understood. You were yelling at the screen.” YES ADAM, I WAS