AGM 3927 World War II Military Lantern

[@w.rustylane5650]

When I refurbished my Coleman 220 BX, I used an etching primer before the color coat and it really came out great. When a spray can (rattle can) no longer will spray, I punch a hole in it and drain the paint into a glass jar and save it to use in my airbrush. I like painting with my Badger Anthem 155 airbrush. I can control the spray a lot easier with my airbrush. My friend gave me a can of Coleman green enamel paint that was color matched to Coleman green. I've used it to repaint a Coleman 425NL stove and it came out great. He also gave me several cans of paint, one is Coleman red and Sears blue, all color matched (I think it's auto paint). Cheers from eastern TN

[@chrisssmallengines7163]

Great video , preserving history in all its glory .

[@pnwoods]

Most professional/gratifying end result. Internet must be given a nod of appreciation. Without it, your effort and success would be only singularly experienced. Salute!

[@mikemorgan5015]

Very nicely done. That puppy started fast too!

[@bradley4294]

Always enjoy your videos and the attention to detail you take, always learning new techniques..thank you for your time

[@scottblachly9353]

Another great video. Great lantern. Amazing it doesn't have any stress cracks in the fount. Can't seem to find an AGM without them. Keep up the great videos.

[@king.coleman]

It's the AGM brass founts that develop stress cracks. The steel founts like this don't have that problem.

[@mikemorgan5015]

@@king.coleman Have you heard of anyone annealing the brass ones to relieve the stress on the brass. Don't know if making a fount dead soft is a good idea or not but seems fine at the low pressures a lantern runs at.

[@king.coleman]

I have not. I suppose it might work in theory, but I'm not even sure how one would go about doing it.

[@mikemorgan5015]

Probably a moot point. If they haven't cracked in 70 years....... To anneal brass and copper, which are work hardening metals, you just heat them up. An oven or a torch, grill, campfire, camp stove, etc. Unlike steel, quenching doesn't harden them. If you watch copper and brass smiths making pots, kettles or other thin walled pounded pieces, they will pound for a bit and anneal, pound some more, anneal, lather rinse repeat until they're done. You can feel it harden as you work it, that's when you stop and reheat/quench. If you keep going it will get brittle and crack. I never saw the brass fount process for lanterns but I'd imagine that AGM may have taken too big of a bite in their forming process or perhaps didn't anneal at all or thoroughly/often enough based on their reputation for stress cracks. A strange little experiment to demonstrate the properties is to simply take a few inches of solid conductor electrical wire and bend it back and forth. The area at the bend point will harden, as you continue to bend, a new softer point adjacent to the hardened point will bend. Now heat it and it's all pliable again. So if you ever need to bend a brass cleaning lever, or remove a dent, heat it first, bend it a little and heat again. Again water quenching is fine and speeds things up.

[@danielcharbonneau222]

Turned out very nice. Love your channel, very educational.

[@danmilbourn]

Sir great job thanks for sharing.

[@kenneth6731]

Impressive!

[@Enjoymentboy]

For stripping paint I've had great success with DOT3 brake fluid. It takes time but most of the time with older paint it called it to release and just slide off. Brake fluid doesn't seem to work to well on powder coated items though so I'm guessing the chemistry is odd but old enamel really doesn't stand a chance. lol For old founts, especially rusty ones, U do a prolonged simmer in a slightly stronger citric acid bath.... like all bloody day long. It has done a wonderful job and gets rid of everything, taking all three paint and rust with it.

[@king.coleman]

Thanks for the suggestions. Dichloromethane is the active ingredient in traditional paint strippers and a chemist friend of mine recommended I try chlorinated brake cleaner, which also uses dichloromethane. It kind of worked, but it evaporates much too quickly to be practical. I've found that acetone is extremely effective on some paints, but not on others. The wire brush take about as much time, doesn't really cost my anything, and removes a lot of rust along with the paint. I'm hesitant to use it on brass founts, but on steel it's pretty fast and easy.

[@maxjordan815]

Very nice. I enjoyed your video.

[@Dominic.Minischetti]

Great job!

[@richt1583]

Bill, I was wondering what you place inside the bung to suspend the fount for painting. I just got an AGM 2471 to fire up and run after an exhausing time including a Caswell treatment. I plan on doing a thorough resto similar to what you did on your 3927. Great video as usual. Thank you.

[@king.coleman]

I tied a paperclip the end of the string and bent it so that once inserted, it would grab the inside of the fount. It's strong enough to hold the fount, but you can easily pull it out when done. I typically screw a bolt into the bung and tie a string under the bolt head, but as I recall, I had a couple founts to paint that day and could only find one of my bolts. Alternately, you could use an old valve body.

[@richt1583]

All good suggestions. I’m going with the bolt method. Thanks.