Air Crete Interlocking Wall Panels

Air Crete is lightweight, Fire Proof, and bug resistant. Some interesting things are coming. Interlocking panels, dog house and lots more. We use portland cement mixed with foam to create air crete. It has great insulation qualities and budget friendly.
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[@driverjamescopeland]

So why are you using investment framing? Why not coat the metal frame with release film/coating, then use low expansion foam between the joints to avoid thermal bridging?

[@JohnsonShoreInnHermanville]

How about "Z" channels? More forgiving. Then you only need a break as opposed to a roll form. Stagger studs from side to side or flip for corners into 4' prefab units. Slip forms into a deep plate channel to seat .Preframe doors and windows into 4' panels before pouring. Silicone joints. Put conduit down each panel to make wiring easy.

[@hotmimi666]

I found repurposing old metal door frames as tongue and groove may work.....I'm just as passionate about aircrete as you...thank for all the tips and troubleshooting so I don't have to. Cheers

[@twagner6155]

Another difficulty is that if you are going to make tongue and groove shapes w/ a roll former out of sheet metal, water will get in there and rust. This will ruin marketability because of rust forming inside and out. Also, putting the panels in c channel will collect more rust and water. I saw air crete joined with mortar and no steel at all. You are good man.

[@MyLevelheaded]

use pvc conduit for pull throughs in the center of the c channel forms then use threaded flat stock to pull forms together the c channel bases top and bottom will teak screw in place your done as far as doors and window same thing with shorter panels of course top and bottom door and window frames mounted with tap cons...and grouted into place around the door frames...then stucco! Standard sized forms could be cut on site with wet partner saw as well for custom windows heights and widths using a diamond edged saw with water mister to keep down the debris...These forms could even be constructed a little longer and attached to the sub footer for increased heights allowing for the walls to go up and double for slab forms for the finished floor...

[@tonyb.4824]

I think it's a good idea, but my opinion is that it solves a problem that may not exist. I can't see there being much force laterally on the wall panels. Now, I'm assuming there will be some type of banding attaching the panels to their adjacent panels. I'm also assuming a double layer of a caulk or adhesive between panels. With a channel top and bottom, there shouldn't be much room for flexing. I've also thought of putting a pvc conduit in the pour at 18 inches from bottom to be used as the electrical raceway. Home runs put in the slab can be put in the panels with a stub out the bottom to mate with and out the top for ceiling lights. Just my 2 cents worth and I'm looking forward to your progress.

[@pheotonia]

I'm looking to make 4 foot x 4 foot raised garden bed walls with this. So for me the problem does exist!

[@firestormlivingsolutions]

Tony B. Instead of caulk use aircrete

[@bowlweevil4161]

since your side panels are sheet metal a break press would easily bend these metal side pieces and a break press would be way easier and cheaper to build than a roll former, your tongue and grove edge piece is the first thing i thought of when i saw what you were doing, i need to build a shop so i'm watching what you are doing thanx

[@BillyBobsbrother]

Consider using a piece of corrugated steel as the Male and female keys. As an example, may not be practical due to length and width of corrigations, but for reference, the corrugated metal on a shipboard convex container. But with narrower corrigations. The angles could be made on a press brake at a local shop. They would be easy to strip the forms and easy to assemble the panels. Consider all thread rod and female couplings going through the panels to pull them together with some kind of caulk or glue in the joints.

[@BillyBobsbrother]

Maybe remove and reuse the all thread rods after "glue" sets up. Rods and couplings could pull a 20 ft wall tight and then remove the rods the next day. Or cables are used with collects for pretensioning overstressed concrete Tee's as an example.

[@Colin56ish]

I would also be eliminating the steel and perhaps using a rebar system instead, because many building codes will require it.

[@janicetrohn]

When you go tongue and groove with your panels, also put a grooved one along the bottom of the panel so you can put a lock bead into the slab/footing to lock the walls into position. (might not be a bad idea to do the same on top) What you are doing here is realy great!! I am just going into retirement with a decent pension (translates to Operating Funds)and would be interested in a franchise when you get started. It wouldn't be hard to find some strong young guys around here needing a job :)

[@mortegasr]

Hey Janice, they are hard to find now anywhere. All the utes (youths) only know how to lift their thumbs, lol.

[@thornortheastregionaltruck2392]

Why not reuseable molds for the air-crete panels. And skip the whole metal part of it. And the a few pipes running horizontal thru to run the wiring and the others to run rebar through..

[@Weslag1]

There are building codes where he lives that require studs in any wall for a habitable building. He seems to have a little bit of concern about resisting earthquakes in Idaho. Aircrete isn't very high strength, as concrete mixes go and is pretty brittle. I don't see mention of him adding basalt fiber chop or basalt rebar to make it any less brittle and subject to cracking. Taking the metal forms off after casting (Especially THESE, with a lip top & bottom as opposed to flat lumber) would be a monumental hassle. After Lowe's gives him a Veteran Discount, added to a bulk discount (for buying a pack of 70), the cost of a steel stud to leave on is about the same as a 2x4x8 wooden stud that he'd need anyway. But as much as anything, leaving them on gives him a wall with studs on 16" centers, to satisfy building inspectors if needed, and to help keep the roof from collapsing if the shed winds up doing The Earthquake Dance at some point. This is a small-ish shed, so I don't know whether it would need to be inspected as a habitable structure in his jurisdiction or not. Where *I* live, in South Texas, it depends on factors beyond your intended use, such as square footage. But if earthquakes are a problem in Idaho he certainly doesn't want the tops of the walls to break and crumble during an earthquake and quit supporting his concrete roof over a Gold Wing motorcycle that will be parked there. Also, it's a Learning Project. He's mentioned several times in his video that he has intentions of building geodesic dome parked in his mind somewhere. I'm surprised he didn't build the dog house first, to see what could be learned from that, before enlarging his scope to a storage/parking shed.

[@pheotonia]

Are you speaking of how they make the bricks overseas?

[@jamesowens2781]

pheotonia hey you are correct but I mentioned same thing in another post but who knows with the building codes. On KZbin they make light weight concrete panels for fencing compound walls overseas. He is spot on on the concept. Another idea if possible is drilling down into pad and epoxy the rebar through the hole he mentions. I love to hear people work stuff out.

[@pheotonia]

Yea I am living in my forever home and are aging in place. I bought the large tank foamcrete gun from him to make 4 foot by 4 foot panels for raised garden beds. 87 year old me will be happy that 57 year old me did that!

[@Colin56ish]

I agree with you Thor, get rid of the steel frames, they are not necessary and are a huge additional cost. I think rebar is going to be necessary for most building codes.

[@moonshadow5002]

Great job

[@LouisFPak]

This is a super idea! Thank you! But until the day you begin mass production, do you have any links for your viewers for sources of interlocking male/female channel stock? Somebody must be making these interlocking already no?

[@mortegasr]

Nice idea. Comments below aside. The main question that I wonder about is why not 4' wide panels? Not just you but many other on YT only do 2' wide panels as well. If so light why not wider? I am interested in the roll former I could use to make a mint in Panama. BTW, consider a chamfer on the male edge channel. Also need to figure top and bottom c-channel sub as you can't fit a channel in a c-channel. Also, wouldn't a present mfg'r of gutter formers be the place to go for that design channel as they are all setup. Rock on dude.

[@jackson8085]

Why don't people make homes out of this material? Is it a regulatory hurdle or is there a specific structural/technical reason that would be unwise?

[@lightrose100]

THAT METAL FORMER IS CALLED PROGRESSIVE ROLLER

[@robertohagan8093]

What happens when the electro plated tongue and groove forms corrode

[@wallypaige8496]

I don't understand why you don't use blocks and rap them with the cloth and then paste it. Then paint it.

[@balloney2175]

Can we use this for making a house not just a shed?

[@normbograham3]

Weird, lots of people returning stuff to Harbor Freight. What are the odds.

[@nickdannunzio7683]

Just make your panels with female slots that would accept a 1" x 3", then use the 1xs to seem them together... Rip the 1x material x1/2 to fill the slot around window and door openings for easier d&w installation, and a key-way to stop infiltration at the slab, next level, or roof intersections...

[@nickdannunzio7683]

I would insulate the outside of a building that will be heated or cooled as that metal will conduct hot to cold, sucking the heat into or out of... foam board , the dryvit... I would rout a groove for EMT and metal boxes on the inside of the exterior wall to avoid being screwed accidentally, then cover w 3/8" drywall or whatever...

[@nickdannunzio7683]

Please forward to me 1% of the proceeds if you use my ideas... LOL

[@nickdannunzio7683]

With this method you could make (2) standard size panels, x 16" and x 24" x 8' send extra channel with your kits to field cut panels as needed for a particular design... (now they can place as many windows and doors where they want)...

[@nickdannunzio7683]

Recommend to installers using the panels for exterior wall to cut a slit in the metal channel in the center of the groove, all the way around, before installing, to break the heat sink action...

[@nickdannunzio7683]

Any decent structural engineering firm, that has equipment to stress test concrete samples, should be able stress test to determine the typical load for each panel (horizontal and vertical)

[@wheyez1]

You could build and sale the message

[@wheyez1]

Machine

[@tf1639]

I think you are over complicating things. There is no need to interlock anything. Wood studs create stud bays and those bays don't interlock. They are nailed to the top-plates and base-plate. That is how you need to assemble your panels. Just have a way to fasten them at the tops and bottoms and the whole thing works just as it should. Really, all you need is the top connection since your bottom connection is already thought out.

[@davidquinn9353]

I thinking about using 6" wood or metal frame that you fill only 4" and then bolt together and fill in 2"foam on it side to make flush exterior wall. Cover that with a stucco type aircrete. Before you fill in the final 2 inches with foam you could run your electrical

[@johngalo8388]

Make all your studs female and use a male insert where needed. That way you don’t have to worry about designing the panels top, bottom and sides. Insert can screw, glue or clip on.

[@rogerredden1079]

Take your normal C. Track about 12 to 16 inches and cut ✂️ it in half ... Now attach one near the bottom and one at top back to back with a screw to your panel.... Now that will allow you to lock each of the panels together.. ...❤ Get wife to explain if you're still can't see or understand this .... 5 years and you're still haven't solved this simple concept ......

[@michaeltung4174]

There are Chinese companies selling aircrete home kits in panels. The panels does not use metal studs on interlocking. I suggest you manufacture reusable moulds for making panels rather consumed the mould on each panel.

[@josiahmoss1667]

What's the names of these companies?

[@jhereseedwards1951]

Can you tell me the name of said companies?

[@michaeltung4174]

@@jhereseedwards1951 I just watched them on you tube. You can search them on Alibaba.

[@jhereseedwards1951]

Michael Tung thank you

[@donoakes5965]

Michael I would agree to some point but suggest steel framing does have better structural advantages also. I travelled to china & india numerous times since 2008 investigating most techniques for production of EPS & CLC foam cement & post assembly infill methods.

[@TsetsiStoyanova]

You don’t need any music. You both are perfect just like that, unedited

[@chrisweaver41]

I know this is a year old, don’t know if you have made progress or will see this. Instead of tongue and groove where you have to have 2 kinds of channel, make it Z shaped so all end pieces are the same and you only need to flip channel over for each side.

[@paulmorgan7119]

Just thinking---Why not make horizontal panels? Continuous length of the building, easier for windows and doors, easier to run conduit for utilities. I enjoy your videos and your thought progression. Cool family also!

[@TheMadnessOfCrowds]

Make all studs 'female', and use a spline. One less form machine, and no orientation problems.

[@TeamRiceUSA]

GUY HILLIS Great idea.

[@marshalllhiepler]

You are a typical Guy, Hillis. "Wants everything female." 😃

[@user-lz2bn6eo1j]

H or I channel add fibers mentioned above slide aircrete panel in. Move to next. Tie together with rebar or cable. Maybe as an added run a bead of adhesive or sealant between aircrete panel and beam

[@raydreamer7566]

For the horizontal holes you are thinking of put a PVC tub evenly spaced about every foot. Then you can run rebar through the holes joining the two panels at a time always alternating so you are not trying to put the rebar through more than two panels at a time and you can still use the other holes for your wiring or plumbing. If you leave the PVC in the panel it would protect the wire same as a conduit. also the PVC will protect the aircrete from being damaged when installing the rebar. Good luck.

[@razifghazali007]

This panel seem like structuraly strong to support second floor. Can be use as floor panel as well! Brilliant!

[@wrathofsocrus]

Check out Matthias Wandel's SketchUp videos. I love SketchUp, but it isn't intuitive at all. As soon as you get a 3D piece in to shape, you can triple click to select all lines, right click, and select 'make component'. That way you can just click once to select it and move it around. It also makes it easier to copy it or modify one to affect all copies, and you can right click and select 'make unique' if you want to customize one differently from the rest. There are lots of tricks like that which can save you tons of time, but you might never figure out just playing around in SketchUp. The is also SketchUp for Dummies and other tutorials that can save you a bunch of time. I know I've burned dozens of hours on things that I could have done in minutes if I only knew the tricks to it! Good luck and thanks for the videos!

[@johnwolf1475]

Becareful what you say... Until after you get patents!!!

[@poltergheist3388]

are you not afraid of condensing by having thermic bridge because of metal sheet corners?? I mean aircrete is super insulating and metal super thermo- conductive won't it create a problem is it not possible yo use pollywood or fiberglass sheet??? 🤔

[@kptallen007]

Hmm, if you turned a stud out on one side, could the 'wings' be bent out to overlap the wings on the panel next to it allowing an easy way to interlock the panels with off the shelf stuff?

[@kptallen007]

You could also make a simple peg interlocking system, leaving pegs out in areas where you don't want them - the end of a run, door frames, and the like. In your jig to bend the studs, add ports for predrilled holes in all the studs too, then on one side of the form weld small protruding metal pegs (similar to the sort used in adjustable bookcases to change a shelf's height) in those holes that will then match up with the predrilled holes on the other side of an adjacent panel. I imagine your spot welder can weld the pegs onto the stud before filling the form on the one side. It could be a piece of rebar too that goes halfway through the panel it's welded to (and, consequently, halfway into the one it's joined too). For light, cheap, easy materials you could try it with PVC as you mentioned too.

[@MyLevelheaded]

love the tongue and groove though ! much stronger vertically and ind resistent etc...could be installed with a bead of butyl caulk as well! then use threaded flat stock to pull together...sealing with stucco finish prevents moisture from penetrating and yhe studs would be corrosion proof

[@jamest.5001]

Why not just put dowls and holes, or holes for dowls in the 2x4's, it would save alot of work. Maybe modify PVC cap plugs, by putting a groove in the 2x4 can lock in to. With something like a screw the concrete can Holt to on the end, then something like a 4" piece of 1" dowl can be tapped into one side then slide together! I don't know if it makes sense, but hey, it works perfect in my head!!! Ha-ha..

[@ironguyscom]

I like your videos I can help to make a mold or dies to make prefabricated tongue and grove that can include pre fabricated holes to put pins and keep them secure please contact me I have ideas I can help

[@walthodgson5780]

Might want to apply for patents or whatever before you start getting too detailed on your plans. That said, you could make these both male and female if you have the former run a flap back over to that it creates a flange that you can use to screw the panels together. Have a male on the bottom of the panels to mate into a female metal channel run that is screwed to the foundation. Have it female on the top so that you can run a continuous strap in the groove to tie them all together. If thin enough it would also allow you to do the male-bottomed headers. You may want to consider running a bead of expansion foam between the sections to completely seal out the weather.

[@SumErgoMonstro]

Re: PVC in the forms, if you put them in at the standard heights for outlets , with 4"x4" void to make room for a double junction box, and a vertical run from there to standard switch height and on up to a wall sconce height, you're ready to pull Romex or flexible conduit through those wiring chases. You could make some panels with just the horizontal chases and no voids for junction boxes, and mix/match them as desired.

[@michaelz6870]

I was thinking the same. This also reminded me of SIPS, except fireproof. 👌

[@ct381]

If this could be made where the roof could be made with the same air create and floor because you said it was very strong that would lower the cost perhaps of poring a concrete slab . then add holes and outlet sockets and even a panel box for say a 200 amp service and add plumbing outlet most homes are now plum with pex and pvc for sewer anyway so this should be easy .. And this could become the next generation home build where you have a website they design their own home layout and boom its ship to them the same way a log cabin kit is shipped .. The kit could be shipped with detailed instruction on how to assemble so people that want to diy of install could .. i see alot of potential here with many projects from dog house ,well house, home,farm use for storing hay for the animals , storage sheds ,shops the biggest factor can you do it cheap enough to be compared to stick built ...

[@debprescott3929]

Brilliant! Second time I’ve watched it. I have had the similar ideas floating around in my mind for a concrete bottle brick fence.

[@tonitouchberry894]

Youre over thinking it babe! Use the exact same channels you have for the sides on the top and bottom! The inny on the bottom and the outy on the top! Think about it!!

[@finieclimber]

If it is so light why not pour the whole wall in one panel and put a conduit and boxes into the wall before pouring. Then stand it up.

[@zachariahstillwater]

Cam Packer I was thinking this also....

[@MrAdmarm]

Your Idea is good, although I would prefer a form that creates L shape panels, this type can easily allow bolt together installation, using adhesive and a few bolts, and the form/mold is easy to construct. Do air create panels actually need the metal 2x4's, I am adding more reinforcement wire within the L shape panels, and totally do away with the metal 2x4,s, this will also reduce cost. My Ideas are to reduce materials, and construct in such a simple way to create high strength, instead of adding, and adding until the cost is out of reach, and creating construction overkill. One could also within the mold create a nice exterior board, brick, or stone pattern.

[@fleaniswerkhardt4647]

When you say 'L' shaped panels, you mean 'L' shape when looked at from the side? i.e. they might be 2.4m high with a 175mm wide toe at the base. I'd also probably mount these panels on a 200mm high concrete footer with a tongue strip all along it matching the groove in the base of each panel. And use adhesive to join panels with each other as you suggest. I'd also use post and beam construction rather than relying on aircrete for structural integrity.

[@starchaser2489]

Why dont you create Lego's Blocks with a pass through hole for something like rebar to reach from foundation to header? You only need three types, full one, half one, angle end one for roofing pitch. Moulds could be created with plywood and foam board creating many blocks in one pour.

[@keithgeisen]

Because guys can't keep our ideas hidden - if the metal can be as long as you want - make the forms 100 ft. long and have the pour on rails to move it the entire length of the forms. When it's finished slide it off to cure and set the next. No matter what size you need just cut off at length. So many ways to skin a cat.

[@BizTechMastery]

You think like i do. Anytime you want to compare drawings or put our heads together we can do that. I have a manufacturing facility going up to do this.

[@william_bz]

This idea would also make an excellent yard fence system. 👍😎👉💞

[@4pharaoh]

Consider: Would anyone ever stack 2" x 4" bricks by standing them up like soldiers side by side? Of course not, there is no strength. With a 3/4 tongue and groove, a minor shift in the ground (or earthquake) and the groove joint opens. With just 3/4" inch shift and the whole building collapses. If instead of a 2' x 8' panel you do 4'x4' panels with grooves at 2' interval then you can placed them so they can overlap by two feet. ( effectively 4'x4' bricks) Not optimum, but stronger. There's a real good reason we overlap bricks, and there is a reason they are strapped to the wall every four feet after every few courses. I doubt if your design is very safe so far, but I love that you are working on it.

[@HoneyDoCarpenter]

elastomeric bonding is old tech

[@MrTracyd]

If you go ship lap you have much more flexibility, they can move a little and easy to mate up and if used for roof panel the shed water or if you want to go horizontal on the wall, you can go as high as you want as long as you want

[@henrygonzalez1127]

Great ideas! Keep going. We're all with you. Thanks for sharing. Perhaps "Home Depot" would get on board.

[@GregoryJByrne]

I saw a video of houses in south america built using a similar system of concrete panels.

[@robcrissinger776]

Can aircrete be sprayed? For instance geo dome or quanset hut with a newspaper and wire mesh backing? The sculpture shapes would be limitless

[@douglasfurlong1]

they already have interlocking foam core eps panels...sips..frp interlocks panels..this is hardly original...i have seen people make their own foam core panels..it is pretty easy to do.

[@MT-rv3ec]

I have not read all your comments so if this is a repeat bear with me. Why couldn't you take a strip of wood in the dimensions needed for the tongue and screw it length wise centered inside the stud. That would be the female side of the form. Then take 2 strips of wood precisely measure and screw them to outer edges of the stud full length and that would be your male side of the form. No special studs needed.

[@charliejohnson4336]

so could you build panels then remove forms tounge and groove???? Connect with uerethane glue????

[@keninglis7060]

Top hat battens used for roofing would be better than your plan as the tapered tongue and groove would be more forgiving for clearance.

[@stephblindbeekeeper4064]

Why use the metal stud sides, just use wood forming to create male female sides moulded into the panels. To lock together...

[@gatewaymofreight]

Rust???????????? metal studs galvanized only last so long? What about a polymer type stud and use PL type glues to put them together?

[@conniecoffey8615]

So, if you take flat stock and cut it to the length of each stud then screw two strips on sides and one strip on the center of the opposite stud it will act the same as your diagram without having stud metal formed

[@melinda5777]

Again, dont know how i missed commenting bc i watched it way back.😊😊😊😊

[@josebenitez3732]

C-channal sill anchored to the slab with standard J-bolts, spaced as per code. Speaking of code... The trick would be to get the insurance industry to cover your homeowners or other insurance for these structures. Then you would be cooking with gas! It's all about liability. You essentially would open a whole new home, commercial and industrial construction industry. Oh Yeah!

[@technosaurus3805]

Better to form them with 3 sides flexibly gasketed so that each section gets 1 metal stud that can just be put in the C channel and slid tight to the previous panel. This would make it easy to drill out through holes where needed using a pre-punched hole. Aircrete is soft enough to drill the hole with a sharpened piece of electrical conduit using another metal stud as a jig. I was told that most of the rigidity comes from the metal cross strapping and envelope (drywall, sheathing etc...)anyhow. I've seen people that only screw one screw into one C channel (something about earthquakes and movement) - just weird... studs are supposed to hold the drywall in place not the opposite; metal framing is strange. I'd consider doing a V or U notch for easier fitment. Ideally a U with a slight curve at the base to eliminate the weak spot. Hmm, is it rigid enough to use smaller studs split in 2 L channels with the interlocking edges of aircrete between... it would provide a thermal break and a mortar surface (lime mortar for better flexibility? )

[@bobreed285]

If you make all the studs with grooves, and add a pvc spline to lock them together? Then you have to design only one universal metal stud.

[@David-oy6ck]

people that don't use keyboard shortcuts on computers trigger me 😵‍💫

[@davidfoppe636]

I hope you are patenting these systems. Even if you are not producing a variation, if you patent it you could license someone else to produce it. You have some really good ideas and it would be a shame if someone else patented them and made you pay for manufacturing your own ideas.

[@davidborgesen5851]

Once anything is public, it can not be patented.

[@gregorydean824]

Can't be same size. Won't fit male smaller..then female. Good idea though...

[@jacq4jet]

I think it would be simpler for your "tongue and groove" to use puffed roofing sheet. Just need to bend lengthwise the edge at 90 degrees. You wouldn't need a complex machine and it is already available. Just need to mach negative to positive or male to female. Just an opinion.

[@chucktrent187]

Are you related to Rob Avis? You have seminar egos. He goes on and on about how smart he is.

[@MarkH10]

No wire runs? Embed some pvc from the roof down to switch or outlet heighth and you can wire in low power CCTV, CTV, or power switches and outlets.

[@jubankta1627]

Honey do u are awesome brother keep doing ur thing!!!there are alot of new videos on youtube for bending metal check them out Im sure u have but u are doing great things sir!!!

[@SaltyBoots]

instead of using c chanel, use a wooden form, and put a 1x1 on one edge in the center. on the other side put a timber strip on both edges, leaving a 1x1 gap between. ☺

[@MrSerella]

Or just put two pieces of timber each exactly half the panels thickness, one at the bottom on one side and the top for the other, no tongue or groove just a universal panel that can fit both ways. Even the corners are accounted for, think think of it like the stepped piece i the game tetris

[@davidcox768]

Why go though the stress? Why dont you just weld the panels together? I know the the metal is a bit thin but with ehough practice you could have it down in no time

[@davidcox768]

You are already using metal framing use it to your advantage

[@timkahn2813]

why not just use rebar and hang your mesh wire from the rebar and use a board on either side and some bonder to make the air great stand on its own just move the boards up as you shoot it with a gun.

[@howrogers]

What program do you use to make diagrams of forms you want to create? I have a basic PC. Is there a good downloadable program I can use to create my ideas? My fiancee who is in the Philippines is very poor & her community is very poor and we wish to create hydroponic gardens to grow food to help feed the poor, in her country & many others. But there is always the threat of typhoons & large tropical storms where she lives. Our idea is to build hydroponic gardens on wheels, so we can push our hydroponic garden "segments" into an air crete dome when a storm hits, and after the storm has passed, push our hydroponic garden back out of the dome and have food for those who have suffered. We also want to create air crete domes for housing & protecting the poor who have nowhere else to go when a storm hits (air crete domes would have much much less "wind sheer" & therefore can survive a typhoon if anchored to a foundation poured 2 ft into the ground). We believe that air crete is the future for building protective domes for both, housing our hydroponic gardens during a storm, & to create homes that protect the people too. Do you spray your forms so air crete separates from the forms more easily? Often, many years ago, you would build a a plywood form to hold the concrete when pouring a solid wall...like a basement... and spray the inside of the plywood with oil to help separation of the plywood from the concrete, or does air crete separate easily because of air pockets? I am hoping to create a form that is 1/4 or 1/8 of a sphere and fill it with air crete and duplicate it many many times over, then link (anchor) 4 - 1/4 spheres or 8-1/8 spheres together, to make a dome and anchor the dome to a foundation that has been poured into the ground. I am a novice, but I have knowledge and creativity and a desire to make my life mean something...to do something greater than myself... and I think and live outside the box...always thinking and creating new ideas...new possibilities. And now I have found my Angel...just like you found yours...and she & I wish to try to change the world. Can we do it? I guess that is up to us. "There is on try...only do or do not" (Yoda). I am 60yrs young & have no plan to slow down. I am just getting started & my fiancee is half my age and has the mind of a sponge...always wanting to learn and create and help others less fortunate! The age difference bothered me at 1st but 4 years later, I know when I am looking into the eyes of an Angel, and she posses the same drive & determination that lives within me. I just needed someone who believes like I do! We do not care about what we want. We care about what we can give. Give by helping others less fortunate & those who are struggling thru life just to put food on the table & have a roof over their heads when they sleep. We are not "left" or "right". We are just 2 people who care... and want to spend the rest of our lives together helping others. It is not about money, but about giving & creating opportunities for those less fortunate. What advice do you have? I am all ears. And that goes for anyone else who may read [e-mail] Help us create a better world

[@bunkie2100]

The program being used in this video is Sketchup from Google and the basic version is free. It's very powerful and is easy to use.

[@moogiesretirementhaven2265]

"KISS" with all that metal, build a metal building... then use the aircrete blocks for insulation.

[@timothyford1534]

You have some good ideas going here. I would consider making the bottoms end of wall panels with a female recess and the tops with male spines. Here's why. On your bottom tracks (or the sill plate if you will) you could pour just the male spine. That would allow you to easily and quickly control the placement and retention of your wall sections at one of it's most vulnerable areas. At the top side you could lay a wall slab on its side with the female side down to lock onto the male splines on the wall slab tops. It would be like one continuous header which would work for door and window openings too. Also I like that you used some wire mesh in your wall slabs. It helps with their structural integrity a bunch more than people know. If you do this tongue and groove idea you'll want to double up on your mesh so that a sheet of mesh rides the respective space on either side of the female recess. Making little squares or rolls out of the mesh that you stick in between the sheets will help to ensure that the mesh sheets stay in their allotted areas and the top sheet doesn't just fall to the bottom. Also wire ties at the corners and somewhere down the sides in the middle area will suspend the bottom sheet and keep it from becoming just texturing on one side of your wall sections. Good luck with your endeavors!

[@mishich666]

Hi there! How about the thermal bridge? How to solve this problem?

[@AeonSaint]

Did you do that Kickstarter Campaign?

[@docase4932]

Another great video Darwin. Have you thought about asking a company that makes gutters to make the tunge and groove studs. That’s what I am doing. Then you order what you need and don’t reinvent the wheel or start a gutter and stud business. We are getting excited to see you finish this shed ! Keep up the good work!

[@user-lz2bn6eo1j]

If using tongue and groove make mold and use PVC carefully split. Little work one fits into other. Wouldn't be that hard to square it into end of mold.

[@flick22601]

The following as not negative feedback but hopefully some points to consider as we all try to develop this new (to us) technology. I'm really only playing devils advocate. I like your thinking but I'm still against leaving any type of conductive material on the panels when they're put in place permanently. I consider it both an unnecessary additional expense and detrimental to the insulating value of aircrete. While your idea of placing channels in the panels may have merit, remember you are leaving a sharp metal edge which could cut through electric wiring and because you have the same metal exposed on the surface of the panels, could present a shock hazard. Why not just butt the raw edges together using tile adhesive or thin-set mortar like is used with AAC (Autoclaved Aereated Concrete) blocks. I just ordered a drywall sprayer (?), the type used to make popcorn ceilings with drywall mud, to put a finish coat over the panels after they're put in place. I know that no matter how careful we are, the brittleness of the aircrete will result in gouges and holes before we're finished with installation. I recently purchased some very inexpensive fabric, tulle, insect netting and a plastic version of hardware cloth to try as reinforcement on the surface of the panels. Have you tried using super plasticizers yet so you can cut down the amount of water in your mix? How about glass fiber reinforcement to replace the metal hardware cloth you're now using? Please keep up the great work you're doing.

[@Weslag1]

In other videos, he has addressed the insulating disadvantage of having steel studs conducting heat & cold. He doesn't like it, but would be required by building codes to use a traditional wooden wall frame anyway, and he saves time & effort by leaving the forms on, instead of spraying with release agent then removing and re-assembling a wood form after every pour. While this is all an experiment by him as much as anything, he's changed his mind about things, plans, tools, etc. more than once, but his current thinking is that he will seal between the studs with butyl tape, and the outside wall surface will be covered with stucco, or some stucco-like concotion. The stucco won't completely solve insulating problem, but will help and he needs studs of some kind anyway, to meet building codes and help keep the building standing if there's an earthquake.

[@kennybeans303]

You would use a rubber grommet to cover the sharp edges of the metal just like other pass thru be a electrical box to metal buildings.

[@davidprins9401]

I’m interested in the results of your fabric trials.

[@jonathanfoote3309]

I’d like to build an off grid cabin out of aircreate and love your videos. Thank you very much for putting them out.

[@paulkainer269]

I am interested and perhaps I could be a distribution point

[@ChrisDaleArt]

If you start to using wood joining techniques. Would it be possible to get rid of the metal studies? My concern is they will rust over time.

[@charliejohnson4336]

I was thinking same it would be cool if aircrete was strong enuf with removing form

[@michaelglenning5107]

Great Ideas! Looking forward to implementing this concept for homeless pod shelters.

[@rodstraub3402]

i want one for myself

[@oskey5301]

I have one question about AIRCRETE. Is aircrete as sound proof as solid concrete? Can they be used in sound proof outdoor walls?

[@MA-st8io]

Create corner pieces with channels for utilizes

[@jubankta1627]

Can u make a pool with aircrete or is it too porous?or should a liner be used?thank u...

[@mmac4047]

johny ubankta a swimming pool is made with several different coatings of different mortars, so you could . If in ground, you could use spray in aircrete.

[@mammam8546]

How do you tie in your corners with a key way system

[@paulkainer269]

So you want to crowd fund this project?

[@aareminer7600]

In general a good idea. You just forget the thermal conductivity of jour metal profiles. Each profile will create a cold bridge leading to local condensation of moisture. Not good for cold areas. I break my head already for a while how to work around that problem.

[@claytonholton905]

I like everything you are doing and planing about building! I live in the Philippines and this would be a perfect solution to low income housing. Plus using aircret would make a very cool inside living conditions. Blessings and hope to see that metal bending machine!

[@twagner6155]

Several problems w/ your ideas are that the drawings don't reflect the true shape of metal studs which are the only kind you have made so far, difficult to join. I have used roll formers and have never seen tongue and groove shapes. I can make two dies for that shape on a lathe but then they have to be heat treated. I wouldn't say what I'm gonna do.

[@conniecoffey8615]

If you put conduit at, say 18 inch's from the bottom of the panel from side to side and hod in place with the same rabbit wire. after aircreat is dry cut the stud at the conduit point. this way you can run your electrical wire. You can use a tee in every third panel for the plugs and run a conduit piece with elbow up to the switch box. you can always chisel out for the E-boxs.

[@Mercheuber]

Would not be easier, and sturdier too, to make "lego" shape mold blocks to interlock walls together? You would get strong corners and vertical and horizontal stability? At the end, who doesn't know to build with legos? Each peace would be lighter and you can perfecty stap them up. Greetings from a spanish living in Holland.

[@vintageringsGarry]

Why not re-use the forms with toung and grove all sround and ( release-able plastic tube in the form) the metal is a heat sink and in -20c would frost up and require more energy to heat. We have alot of -30c to -40c winters and last summer + 40c for number of days. So building panels would be aircrete only, no metal .

[@radarhouse6443]

What do you suppose the weight of each panel for the end walls? If you go to any Home Depot,Lowes and Sams Club they sell plastic sheds that are larger than 10' X 12'. I don't believe they meet building codes in any state in the continental US. In Florida I see them with plastic roof panels also but 1977 was the last year we had several inches of snow in the Tampa Bay area.