I made a completely NEW type of canvas - It's (almost) perfect!

I made a new type of painting surface - a custom shaped canvas!
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[@AlpayEfe]

I should be lucky that I got my idea working eventually - still not satisfied (being an artist in a nutshell 😂)

[@questgivercyradis8462]

I love these organic shapes, and the paintings upon them! The woman with the fish is gorgeous! I think the next step for your canvases would be to seek some textiles specialists, fabric designers, and seamstresses. The carpenter can help on the backing, but the fabrics community can help with the geometry and folds (or lack thereof) on the canvas part! Perhaps it would involve folding fabrics, but with ways to conceal and smooth the folds to be invisible. Looking forward to your eventual solution! :)

[@Taterstyles]

You need to contact a tailor. It should be simple for them.

[@NickInSanDiego]

There is another YT channel I watch called Baumgartner restoration. Not sure if you’ve seen it. Julian Baumgartner in Chicago, USA does wonderful restorations of old, sometimes heavily damaged paintings and brings them back to life. In his processes, he is always trying to find novel ways to his restoration processes, including having his own woodworking shop when dealing with frame restoration & constructing new stretchers, sometimes with non-rectangular pieces. Maybe you could try reaching out to him for any ideas? In my seeing how he is able to stabilize torn and worn canvases, he might have some suggestions that could be useful. Perhaps even a collaboration with you? Hope you find your solution!

[@samarberri8648]

@@AlpayEfe if the thickness of your canvas is an inch and a half and the back of your canvas is another inch and a half, try adding on 3 inches of canvas compared to your frame. Lay down the canvas on the table, put the frame over it and draw around it giving it three extra inches than the size of your frame. once that’s done, cut that out like a pattern for clothing. It’ll be a lot easier to tuck the fabric in without all the extra fabric still hanging from it. And of course, if the side of the of the your canvas is 2 inches and the back is 2 inches then obviously you would put an extra 4 inches of fabric or canvas.

[@elm3329]

I know how it's done! It's super easy! Just make tiny rectangular shaped canvases and then glue them together, so that the resulting canvas appears to have a rounded shape. Read something about infinitesimal calculus, it will help you!!!!! (I have another solution, but it involves warping reality...)

[@samarberri8648]

It looks like you need the help of a seamstress or someone who does upholstery. Seamstresses have a way of cutting darts into fabric to make it work. Try looking up a video of how to upholster a chair. They usually cut around it and staple it to the back of the wood with a staple gun. I love your paintings by the way. Good luck, I’m pretty sure it can be done.

[@questgivercyradis8462]

I agree! The seamstresses and fabrics specialists have all sorts of tricks up their sleeves!

[@cloudsofsunset7323]

yes, absolutely

[@AlexTapisevic]

Yes people who made chairs and couches..

[@happyteria1]

I second this and I sew professionally. I think this can be done with a little tweak in the method. Although eliminating the fold or crease completely around the concave curves will still be tricky, but I don't think it's impossible. For the optimal result and more efficiency, you might find it easier to adjust the angles of the organic shape. Good luck! As always beautiful work.

[@MidgeACE]

Yes sewing darts into the canvas where all the inward turns would work. Would need to trace out the shape of the frame with an added edge of the depth of canvas frame and amout around the back. Then mark a straight line for each inward corner. Draw a line outwards from the canvas outline edge the depth of the canvas frame and the length you want to wrap to back. Fold so that face of canvas meets, pin and sew with sewing machine. You could also put some glue along sewed edge to strengthen it. Once sewed you could trim off excess with a 2cm allowance and flatten the seam i.e. open out. When applying it to the frame put glue on frame before setting the corners in place. You could also do likewise around curves at even spacing. It won't be entirely flat but would get rid of folds.

[@sarameurling97]

Let the edges be messy but make them as flat as possible, and add a strip of veneer or something similar on top of it to simply cover up the mess? And/or use plaster to sculpt and smooth it out, and seal the plaster with varnish and gesso to make the surface paintable. It's how I imagine it'd be done, but I've never actually tried it. I feel very inspired to experiment with it now though :P

[@kuppikahvikeisari9120]

This is why I thought about too

[@bertsdad]

This came to mind straight away so it is likely something you've tried: I would seal the finished curved canvas stretchers to protect them from moisture. Then soak unprimed canvas in water. Then carefully stretch the wet canvas over the stretcher form. You could spray it with water to keep wet during stretching. Once it dries you can prime it. Also talk to upholsterers and people who specialize in fabric wall coverings, like the silk wall coverings popular in the 18th and 19th centuries. Best of luck! Love the idea, and special props to your carpenter!!

[@AlpayEfe]

I tried something like this but this was actually even worse 😂

[@padbearj3154]

Maybe you could use something similar to embroidery hoops. Where the material is trapped between two pieces of the hoop, then pulled and tensioned to make the surface tight .

[@FeldiArts]

maybe try to work with someone who is knowledgeable in Upholstery (my dad is one). You definitely can't get around folds around curves when stretching fabric onto it. The trick would be to make smart choices in where the folds go to be less visible/intrusive to the eye.

[@hamalot100]

I would try talking to a skilled furniture upholsterer. They deal with curves all the time. It is harder with a stiffer material like canvas but they may have some good techniques.

[@krissyvanous]

TOTALLY doable!! Yacht furniture makers and upholsterers use canvas (marine-grade canvas like Sailrite and Sunbrella but hey, it's still canvas) all the time.

[@deannwalker4400]

Your perseverance is paying off. I would have given up and painted directly on a wood panel like I was living in the Renaissance. You are amazing as always.

[@watercolornewbies]

You could use alumnium composite panels for your support and either paint drectly on to them or glue canvas to them if you must have canvas. They are lighter than wood, come in large sizes and can be cut to whatever shape you want. If you want to wrap the canvas around, they are thin so it would be a lot easier.

[@survivalcampman]

Wow Alpey... almost 1M Subs😮? I remember when you barely had any Subscribers... This is insane! Looks like youll be hitting that 1M by summer time... WOW! You are a unstoppable beast machine!🎉

[@AlpayEfe]

🫶🙏

[@jeanne-marielawson7290]

If you manage to stretch it as neatly as possible, you can use modelling paste to fill the folds, sand , more paste, then gesso and it might end up barely visible.

[@CursesCurses]

A canvas is a woven material, made of horizontal (weft) and vertical (warp) threads. On a traditional rectangular canvas, these threads are uniform in length, maintaining an even tension. However, when stretched onto a non-rectangular frame, such as an irregular shape or oval, the pre-woven structure naturally resists the contours of the frame, leading to bunching and uneven tension. To avoid this, consider rethinking how the canvas is constructed for the frame. Instead of using a pre-woven canvas, you could weave the material directly onto the frame itself. Here’s how this idea might work: 1. **Imagine the Frame as a Loom** Think of the frame as the foundation for weaving, much like how a tennis racket is strung. The outer edge of the frame would serve as an anchor point. 2. **Using a Sturdy Framework** Use a rigid material, such as wire or a similar sturdy thread, to define the perimeter of the shape. This wire would act like the "hoop" of a tennis racket, maintaining the integrity of the shape. 3. **Custom Weaving for Perfect Tension** Horizontal and vertical canvas threads would then be woven directly onto this frame. Each thread is cut and secured to match the specific dimensions required by the irregular shape. Because the threads are custom-placed, they can adapt to the contours of the frame, ensuring uniform tension and eliminating bunching. 4. **Material Selection** While the edge wires maintain the shape, the woven threads themselves can be made of traditional canvas material to preserve the texture and paintability. The wire perimeter ensures that the overall frame remains stable, while the canvas threads conform naturally. 5. **Final Touches** Once woven and secured, the custom canvas can be primed and prepared like any standard pre-woven canvas, ready for painting. The difference is in the bespoke fit, achieved by weaving directly onto the frame. This method not only addresses the problem of bunching but also opens up possibilities for creating stable, tensioned canvases in any shape imaginable.

[@brucetidwell7715]

I love that painting and I agree that the irregular canvas absolutely adds to it. I'm a costume designer, upholsterer, and artis who has stretched canvases, so I do know something about working with fabric. You have two problems that can't be altered. Canvas is heavy and it doesn't stretch. Light weight stretchy fabrics can be molded to almost any shape, but you can't paint on it. Relatively loose weave fabrics, like most upholstery fabrics, can be molded, as well, but obviously that wouldn't be appropriate, either. The only way that I can see doing it is to do like you did before, cutting out gores to get rid of the folds and adding slits to go down into the crevasses. Then cover the sides with some sort of tape to smooth it all over. That could be a strip of canvas, some sort of woven fiber braid, strips of heavy paper, but all of those will be a finishing edge, not a blind turned canvas. You will absolutely want to start with plain canvas in the lightest weight that you feel comfortable painting on to minimize the thickness of any extra fabric that lumps up, and the depths of any Vs that you cut out. As I'm typing this I'm having an idea. Exactly how to do it depends on how relatively smooth you can wrap the first canvas and how absolutely smooth you want the finished edges to be. If it just needs to look neat, you can use layers of cotton muslin. If you want it as sharp as a straight stretched edge, you will need to add a paper liner. I'll start with the paper liner. It sounds like you want something archival, although I'm not sure that is an issue in this case. I would just use craft paper, but my paintings don't sell for thousands. You need something medium weight. Having gaps in the stretched canvas wont be a problem. Having wrinkles will be. You need to either massage the extra materiel in, or pinch it up and cut it off. Get the edge as smooth as possible. Cut strips of paper about 8mm narrower than the side of the canvas. Although, it could be wider if it's easier to work with and you can cut it down on the back side. Glue that over your canvas with whatever white glue type glue you feel comfortable using. It should be something that dries stiff. Place the edge of the paper about 6 or 8 mm from the front edge, or a bit closer if absolutely necessary to barely cover the uneven spots but not on the front edge. Then take strips of cotton muslin and glue them over the paper lapping the front edge out a few millimeters over the paper edge. With each one a bit closer until you reach the edge of the canvas. Try to adhere these to the canvas, if possible. The last one will come right to the corner of the canvas make sure it is glued down smooth. If you are using a water soluble glue (like white glue) soak this last strip in water but blot it dry until it is just damp. That will soften the fabric and make it easier to mold it along that edge. The should give a transition that is smooth enough that several coats of gesso will cover it up. Play around with it. You might be able to get a smooth enough surface with muslin that you wont need the paper underneath. You could even start with a fairly heavy weight muslin for the first layer but probably not as heavy as painting canvas. Good luck!

[@mikemaxwell2591]

We are all here because we love your work and are very thankful for all that you share. No suggestion you have not already had. Good luck and be well.

[@creatrix_britt]

For those odd inside corners, I would take a look at "Box Pleats and Inverted Pleats" in sewing, your would end up being triangular with the point ending at the top edge of the frame. Hopefully you find something that works well for you.

[@goodnight_gallery]

The shaped canvases I've seen from Takashi Murakami and Tomokazu Matsuyama, for example, all follow this same method - panel and wrapped with canvas. Unless you design the shape of the canvas perfectly, it would be impossible to do without the panel because you can't get the correct cross-tension and it would be rough to paint on. Well done for persisting though mate, looks amazing.

[@AlpayEfe]

I could swear I’ve seen canvas ones

[@jerm22278]

Ok, so I found the only way I was able to get weird shapes in canvas without many wrinkles, was getting the canvas wet prior to stretching. The only issue was you have to make the wood ridged enough that it's not going to warp once it's wet too. You have to soak the canvas so there's A LOT of water. Plywood works better than solid wood. With solid wood you have to have even pressure and press them to keep them completely flat during the drying time. Since you have a carpenter that helps make the frames for you, they'll understand. I've never done anything terribly big before, so that's slightly new territory.

[@jojomart5895]

As a seamstress I can tell you that you can't make a cloth 3-dimensional, you will always get points where it will fold or wrinkle. That is why figure seams and set-in pieces are used in clothing. Maybe that is an idea to do. You have to make the seams very neat and iron them smooth. With jersey fabrics you can stretch a bit more in corners, but jersey will sag again in the long run. You can also deliberately make wrinkles in the fabric when you stretch it and use this as a 3D effect in your canvas.

[@MozziesArt]

I've seen automotive upholsterers form vinyl and leather around all sorts of shapes using heat but trying to do the same with linen most likely just doesn't work. Anyway, I absolutely love the painting of the lady with the fish - your style is so modern and clean looking. Probably my favourite of everything I've seen lately.

[@FadedRoseStoriesFairyTales]

Bias tape sewn along the curves, If you pay attention to the curves you can ease and stretch the tape both in and out. the seam will strengthen the edge and form a smooth edge. I was a seamstress pattern maker when I was young. the bias tape can be cut from canvas or a next more supple fabric like a heavy cotton. Easy peasy. It's called facing. and you can stretch and staple the edges. and they will be manageable.

[@UtahGmaw99]

The reason for traditional shape for paintings is so it can be stretched but can also move with the humidity or dryness of the air. A shaped wood frame does not shrink and contract evenly due to the grain of the wood.

[@mechellecatron1784]

For some reason I get the thought of fitted sheets like for your bed. Hear me out the fitted sheets on your bed you want them smooth and stretch tight that's the goal. What is for your canvases you had someone so something like that with the elastic in certain spots you can staple it down on the back without worrying about them being creases on the front. But that way you wouldn't have to worry about the fraying.

[@michaelbarton5169]

I love that you are striving to do something quite novel still. So many would achieve your level and then simply crank out volumes of the same thing to make money, completely missing the wonder of art that is creative and inventive. I like the other comment that suggested working with a seamstress or taylor: someone really well versed in how to take a grid form (ie warp and weft of your canvas weave) and stretch this over a complex form without creases. Another idea is to explore working with bent wood as an edging or shadow box to cover up your edge folds. (Meaning, have the top surface crease-free and have minimal folds on the very edge. The bent wood appliqué edging would cover these folds to hide them. You could even have carving or painting of this wood edging to match with the main subject on the canvas. This could give the option of matching smoothly and seamlessly from canvas front surface and wrapping around to the wall in an elegant way. Or you could play up the difference in material between the canvas and wood edging to have both in context with each other. Being able to deliver a message in two parts of the one whole piece might even help improve your depth in delivering your artistic message for any given piece.) I'm a visual artist as well as working in wood, all whilst working full time as an engineer. Let me know if you would like to collaborate, as this is my kind of "create a new box" kind of problem to solve. Cheers

[@michaelbarton5169]

Actually, I just solved how to do the curved and seamless look. Contact me so that we can explore it and refine it to meet your vision.

[@melindawolfUS]

I'm considering foam insulation boards. They're flat and light, and I like working in large scale, like you. I was think a canvas texture could be simulated by making a texture mold on a flat-mounted canvas bigger than your finished foam board size, sealing it so the silicone won't stick, and pouring it to make a texture-mold. Then the mold could be pressed into a thin wet coat of plaster to the foam surface, pressing the "fabric" texture into it similarly to how canvas-textured papers are made (but without the heat-press). These foam boards aren't technically archival, but they are designed to last centuries inside the wall of a house. Some modern sculpted architecture elements are made commercially from this material instead of plaster or wood (and for the same reason we're looking at it - weight). But for my own work, because of all the extra prep work, I was going to settle for simply using sanded edges and gluing on a watercolor paper surface to the foam instead of the canvas. To then be primed and painted on in oil.

[@lisalomano1]

There is a way to do this-you should contact an upholsterer because the construction will need to be in one piece on the front and the 2nd piece will go along the side-similar to a chair cover and pulls over like a slip cover. There will be seam allowance inside but talk to an upholsterer because they can help you! 😀

[@labdrafts]

I agree. sewing the canvas made from 2 pieces of fabric to be already 3-dimensional should do the trick. I would measure how much percent the canvas expands as it is stretched and make the front piece that much smaller (plus seam allowance). There will be a seam (or maybe a double seam to withstand the force from the stretching) along the edges but I think that would look nice tidy and premium. One could even play around with this and insert some piping along the edge 😉

[@samanthaoddsweb]

to get the flat edges you may need to make the edge longer and conical/graduated inwards. it's a fascinating concept

[@barbibarnum]

Ok… can I give you a totally out there idea? Investigate Fiberglass. It can be impregnated into a fabric substrate. But the thing about it is that while it’s being worked, it’s mailable but then it cures rigid. You can leave the surface as a rough canvas and treat it with gesso or it can be totally smooth. Reach out to people that are making kayaks and other boats. Also, find people that are making ultralight planes. They craft their own airplane parts and may be using materials you haven’t thought of like carbon fiber. You might have to go with inorganic materials to get the organic feel you’re looking for.

[@stephinapascho5412]

I like rectangles or even circles more, but they can get really repetitive. I think that a nontraditional canvas like this can be lovely when it makes sense for the piece.

[@PinkCappuccino]

I like your non squared art ! With paper it’s so much easier to change shape (for watercolor). Can’t you prime a panel and not use the cotton ? Or could you use the same material used for cast (for a Brocken leg) ? It’s possible to make so many shapes with this plaster. Just brainstorming. Love your work. Always happy to see a new video. Happy new year.

[@2nouli]

Given my limited sewing experience, I'd say to cover this shape smothly you'd need something really strechy, but I don't know if that would be a good surface to paint on. Maybe use strechy fabric as lining to cover everything, and attach canvas that is just the shape of the frame, so you'd have a regular canvas with strechy edges. Also I think talking to an upholsterer might help you, as they are used to covering weird shapes in fabric.

[@agravou]

It's an innovative idea! Make the most out of it, by using the shape to your theme painting narrative. This could have the shape of a jar let's say. Thanks for sharing!!

[@nathanchildress5596]

It's been done many times. One of my favorite artists is Audrey Kawasaki; she paints on wood panels and has had some CNC cut into cool shapes, although she lets the natural wood surface show, which isn't what he's after.

[@Aster-risque]

Agreed! I love playing with the conventional canvas to create a new experience, but we artists already have so many rules in making sure our compositions work with the standard square/rectangle... Why would that be any different for an organic shape? For all that effort it should be considered as part of the image itself, not just the surface it's painted upon.

[@rogermingay5877]

Looks Great. I think the pond effect it adds for that painting is really interesting and its always good to try something new. The whole video about trying to get the canvas right had me laughing my head off as I can feel your frustration - love it. The local Hobby-craft here in the UK has started selling unusual shaped canvases - must be the new trend - perhaps strengthened by your own experimentation into this. Cheers and more videos please…..

[@art-alchemy]

I love these custom made shapes and your paintings are very beautiful and delicate! Bravo!

[@dominiquetrandesign7611]

Your philosophy on how to trompe l'oeil is amazing. I made a painting after watching you, and very happy with the result. Good teacher!

[@208amanda_martinez]

Your paintings to me are like a mix of mucha and Rockwell. LOVE IT!

[@malakaithedemigod]

This looks greats, no where near a let down

[@AlpayEfe]

@@malakaithedemigod thanks 🙏🫶

[@prchkkizhe7]

Wibbly-wobbly canvas stretching for beginners: Here what follows is the simple version of the solution to your problem: it does require great patience, skill and a little bit of math (very simple math - don't panic). You will need: a large flat surface to work on (a large table top, or wooden board); a very sharp knife (Stanley knife); a seamstress tape measure (a flexible tape measure, otherwise called 'sewing tape') First: you need to measure the degree of stretch that your canvas will be subjected to around the edges of your frame. Measure the largest part of your frame - let's say it's 80 cm. Take an off-cut of board 80cm in length. Lightly stretch your canvas over the board - mark the edge point with a pencil. Then stretch it as much as you can - mark that point. Let's say the stretch is 2.4cm. Divide that number in half: the stretch on each side of the widest part of your frame will be 1.2cm. Do the same with the shortest length. You may wish calculate the average stretch for simplicity. Place your frame onto the canvas - the canvas will be on a flat surface. Draw the shape of your frame on the canvas. Then draw a larger shape around that shape to account for the fold over (at least 10cm). Next you will have to draw a similar smaller shape inside that initial frame shape that will take into account the degree of stretch for each part of the frame. If you have calculated correctly the degree of stretch for each curve, then that inner shape will be somewhat different from the outer shape (not just smaller). Next: take an off-cut of canvas (raw, unsized canvas) - a long piece about (say: 30cm in width). Stretch it over your wibbly-wobbly frame. Note the point where you need to make a fold - let's say every 7.4 cm. With your sewing tape, measure the length of the curve your frame (the same curve that you stretched your canvas - let's say that number is 32cm. Then, divide 32 by 7.4 = 4.32. Round up the number to 5, then less 2 (the beginning and end of the curve) = 3. You will need to cut 3 'V' shaped slots evenly spaced for that part of your stretcher. Calculate and cut for every curve of your frame. The more accurately you calculate the 'V' shaped slots, the better your stretched canvas will look when the job is done - cut as little as possible. Then stretch and fix. Everything should come together swimmingly! However, the canvas can never be as drum tight as a regular canvas - there are no keys on your frame to tighten your canvas when needed.

[@PaulHamwey]

I truly don’t think your work needs any help from this idea. Always looks great in plain ol’ rectangle 👏🤩♥️

[@hermannstraub3743]

1. SEHR GEIL!!! 2. Polsterer befragen (ein besonders guter möglichst) 3. Gemälderestauratoren befragen (z.B. bezüglich Rondos) 4. Wasserfrei kleben, z.B. mit dem sogenannten Beva-Film (auch dazu Gemälderestauratoren befragen) 5. Beidseitig beschichten 6. Weitermachen! Wie gesagt: Sehr geil!

[@CristinaArriolaart]

It’s beautiful ❤ all effort pay very well

[@jason.martin]

I used to work in Orthotics (medical braces) and we had to use leather for pads and straps. I found that using pigskin leather was quite good for stretching around shapes. You would wet it first, staple on one side the stretch it to the other etc. Try a test one that is smaller to see if will conform to your shapes. From what I recall pigskin seems to stretch in all directions

[@RoundBrushStevesteve]

Wish I could get back into painting, work life and owning a home has ruined my motivation and dedication towards it. superb work as always.

[@thanatosor]

Great Artwork, from a humble Artist.

[@Haddepe]

From my point of view (I'm a figurines painter) don't use wood, use a thin board of plastic and don't put canvas on it. I saw a few painters trying this. The advantages is that plastic don't move with humidity and will last thousands of years. You just need to put a layer of acrylic primer on it and you can then paint directly on it. Another option is to use a custom canvas that is weaved to the shape of the wood, a bit like a sock.

[@charliup]

i thought you had figure it out! i remember those videos on your instagram a while ago. I actually don't paint on canvas because i don't have the money or talent to risk myself on doing something beyond a piece of paper. But i can tell you this organic canvas adds a lot. A painting for itself can tell you a lot, but the shape of the canvas is an insterest extra that I haven't seen in any other place, and makes you wonder more about the story of the painting, so I hope you find a way to achieve what you want (and as always, sorry for my bad english hehe)

[@grrvaes]

I don't know about the wrapping thing but about the warping, for woodwork people use metal, like c channels, for example, to stabilize the wood and prevent it from warping. But, it would also add to the weight, so idk haha Loved the channel, beautiful painting, subscribed.

[@elizafleur1018]

Just love your art style.

[@jakovj.m.5322]

Man you always have a good story 😅 👍

[@AlpayEfe]

😅

[@dianeo]

I hope you can solve the canvas wrapping problem before it consumes you 😄 It seems like they need to make a canvas that has a bit of stretch to it so it clings to the edges better. Anyway, this piece turned out beautifully with the organic, pond-like shape.

[@chrisbeard9113]

Stretch the canvas square on a larger frame, and apply adhesive to the curved frame and press it to the tensioned canvas, then when the glue dries, trim and stretch the excess around the back of the curved frame. Another option is a large piece of foam board insulation with canvas applied to the surface

[@piafinch7537]

So two thoughts. Firstly try making the unavoidable folds neatly and evenly so they become a feature of the canvas, to give it almost an origami feel. Secondly, stretch the canvas with wrinkles and all (as long as the face is flat), and place a binding strip over the outside of the frame. This method could use visible tacks as a feature or almost invisible pins. I personally don’t think the bubbly frame really adds to your artwork, but that’s the whole point, it’s YOUR artwork.

[@Quesper]

I'm no expert🙃) but if I were you I would cut the fabric to the same shape and size as the wooden base and then add an inner frame that takes up a little of the front space to cover the staple marks🧩🤔, or an outer frame around the wooden base that is pressed towards the base to tighten the fabric, such as an embroidery hoop🪡🧶, Try using an iron to make the process easier or even follow how gifts are wrapped🎁, I hope you find a way to implement your ideas🪄✨, Good luck👍😁

[@lrich1179]

Love this! The unique shape totally adds to the painting

[@aleistershiranui199]

Wonderful work video aswell painting. Smile and keep up the good work !!

[@kobedeister5234]

Embroidery frame idea, but the second frame will have have to stay around the formed canvas. You have that frame, and then another frame with the same form, but a few mm larger, cut material and push frame down, get assistants to help, you could use, heatgun to secure some places, push frame down around and in place. The frame will give a neat appearance. Could work.

[@lionelumbricht9270]

I think the shape ads a lot but the painting itself already is stunning! How do you actually work with your references? Do you photoshoot yourself, use stock and photoshop or AI? A Video dedeicated to refernce would be very cool! Keep up the good work!

[@hnh-portfolio]

Very insightful walkthrough of your process! When I did my BFA, I also made irregularly shaped canvas (stretched). Making curved organic shapes was impossible! I ended up making angular shaped stretcher bars and the canvas was easier to stretch over. If I were to go back to making organic, curved shaped canvas, I would have to get GOOD with drafting patterns and sewing darts or strategic pleats to the canvas in order to NOT make the edges horrible.

[@AlpayEfe]

Couldn’t get it to work for the life of me 😂

[@debnadaebna9981]

What I would do to try: - find/make a device that stretches the canvas only/alone, evenly in all diagonal directions, - then take that custom frame (yours), spread glue on all the edges of the front side and stick it on the stretched canvas (while still stretching), - wait for it to dry and then no matter how I stretch the canvas along the curved frame, its face itself will not be wrinkled, but smooth. - Then I'll cut a thin and long strip of the same material as the canvas and glue it as a kant for all the side edges to cover all imperfections. That's it. And I'm sure it will work.

[@RichardThompsonCA]

Alupanel is an aluminum composite product for the signmaking industry. It's thin, painted aluminum on both sides with a plastic/rubber layer in between. It doesn't warp and is very stable and durable. The shiny painted surface could be sanded and painted over. It's also fairly easy to cut with a jigsaw/metal blade and it can be had in large sheets, usually from a sign shop.

[@ZadenZane]

Square (oblong) canvas is better because that is the standard shape for photography, etc and if you love your art you always take a photo backup. If you want the shape of a giant blob I think your best option is to use a frame of that shape... In order to avoid the frame becoming an extension of the painting, I would imagine that plain white works best.

[@melanymiskatonic8699]

Incredible to watch you paint 🩵

[@meghnadmaity1205]

Kindly discuss about the long handle hoghair brushes you use in a video.... Thank you for making the videos that inspire us to pick up the paint brushes avoiding laziness....

[@208amanda_martinez]

Gahhh I love your paintings , I need to practice so much more ha ha

[@SethKearsley]

A Furniture upholsterer would be stretching fabric over unusual shapes. I think you have to embrace the folds on the side of the canvas as a unique aspect of this kind of canvas. Maybe approaching from almost a fashion sensibility or incorporating the folds into the painting. The painting you ended up with feels like it benefits from the shape of the canvas because it feels like a thought bubble for a daydream she’s having.

[@nat10011]

If you use the frame size and form for the theme of the painting it would have a huge impact I would imagine. There are lots of hints for the organic frames. I would ask craftmen who are interested in the old fashion way if they have any idea. In my experience they mostly are very creative.

[@SLICK-GLN]

Stretching that is like upholstery or wallpaper.

[@nathanchildress5596]

It's different for a painting though because you want an even stretch all over.

[@artbysolar-theresa]

As a seamstress, cutting darts will be your friend and using many staples. Go seek out an upholstery business and maybe some who specializes in corsets as they have many curves in them. Love the concept and good luck on perfecting this new canvas.

[@ArlosRealismArt]

To help with the panels, you have to basically get a stretch of canvas longer than the panels itself and then draw the exact measurement of the panel leaving extra space around it about 2 to 4 inches and then cut straight lines towards the center, which would be the line drawn for the panel.

[@rmpdesigns9893]

Using a higher flex fabric that has more stretch to it will allow easier shape fitment and removal of creases/folds . Or using a light thin leather for the canvas making your frame then a duplicate shaped outer trim jig that will be used to press/stretch the leather to the shape of the canvas frame after its been well wetted then once the leathers been cut formed and stapled to the back and excess trimmed the outer jig press can be removed .just check out some videos on leather forming.

[@sirmovielover]

Have you thought about using an aluminum composite panel? They’re significantly lighter than wood panels and could offer a smoother, more durable surface for your project. I’m sure they’re more expensive, but perhaps a manufacturer might be willing to provide one, given the opportunity to showcase the potential of that material for irregularly shaped paintings. Just a thought! Anyway, I absolutely love this idea and can’t wait to see where you take it!

[@kayezilla5096]

I came here to say the same thing. Aluminum composite or maybe even pvc. I have experience with both from working in the sign industry and they are much lighter than wood

[@Within_Cells_Interlinked]

I think there would be warping issues with panels at the size he wants.

[@LazyArts]

That’s fire 🔥

[@simbagreen1257]

Ohhh a differently shaped canvas! Excited to see what you do with it

[@ausrabartkute-deviatnikova3817]

I did such canvases myself in around 2008 year. It was fysically very hard to do. My husband helped me. I remember, that I used blank canvas and used water, because it was easyer to strech wet canvas. I was aplying the primer only after streching the canvas.

[@terencecoeart]

You might consider a mix of aluminium composite sheet material such as " Dibond" with a wooden frame support that could provide a lightweight alternative. It is what road signs are made from. It is easy to cut into any shape and is resistant to warping.

[@Jules_Pew]

It isn't that light - I've glued a canvas on one and it's a lot heavier than just a canvas.

[@terencecoeart]

@@Jules_Pew Assuming we are talking about the same thing. Yes it is heavier than just a canvas obviously. However compared to wood there is no comparison. You can also paint directly onto it (using an appropriate primer first of course) without the need for canvas at all.

[@chrisblight6069]

Beautiful work, that's the main thing for me, not the shape of the canvas. The work stands out whatever the shape you're painting on. Saying that, I think your struggles with the odd shape really make it clear why canvases stay the same basic shape.

[@Anonymous_Man]

It's already been suggested but I am going to suggest it as well - look at embroidery hoops. That kind of system is your best bet.

[@sherrina75]

I would cut out the canvas to the shape of the stretcher, then stitch a couple of laps around the outside of the canvas in a gathering stitch using a strong non-coloured thread. Wet the canvas, then apply it to the stretcher and start to gather the stitching around the stretcher at the back. Look at how an ironing board has a fabric cover attached. Yes, you will have gathers, but if you were to gather the fabric evenly it shouldn't look cheap but like a gathered hem. Perhaps approach this as a sewing and fabric issue as opposed to a stretcher one? I was also thinking that you could try a material, like plastic or aluminium sheeting, that doesn't get affected by moisture or heat, and use that as a base to glue the canvas on.

[@iiruniaalice1764]

It is a thought provoking concept and complex (you'll need some wood and fabric wizards). It must be a pain to transport them. My brain is taking time to adjust to the shape in the wall, there is something familiar about it and weird in a good way. I'm used to street artists using different/more rounded objects as a base (like skate boards for example), but it always has an urban feel to it. But the softness of your paintings, in those shapes its... for me, is like bringing the online offline. The amount of masks ive made with blobs/vector shapes on websites... I know that is not the intent, and art is subjective. But it did made me thing of those things. And I agree with you, that organic canvas fabric looked awful in the sides. Hope you'll figure it out, can't wait to see the 2.0 version of this canvas. It would be a great journey to see.

[@cloudsofsunset7323]

I feel like the issue of the fabric with the folds could be patched with pattern drafting techniques. Such as darts. However, the best was to make a wood canvas. Lovely to see you go back to your art videos

[@ibtimmons]

What if you stretched the canvas and tacked it on top, instead of wrapping around the sides. You could then have your woodworker make a frame of same shape and use that to cover the tacks/staples.

[@chrisgriffith1573]

LOL- I have been working out the issues you are dealing with... about 5 years ago- I figured it out. I am in love with my panels now... Keep trying. At some point you will figure out how impressive perfecting your craft can be. Hopefully you will get more acknowledgement than I do for it. 20-30-40K??? I need to get into that market...

[@ariasjopet]

Some Artist here in the Ph are already doing that for quite some time, one of the reason is that type of stretched canvas is really hard to make. unless you have a big studio with many workers or apprentice to help you make a consistent type of canvas.

[@mahtabmohammadi7466]

Great work Alpay! Have you thought of only having a wood panel with the shape you have in mind? I mean without the stretcher bar.

[@Alithios]

The LLM in my head comes up with the following: Across a frame or table (rectangle) stretch a canvas face down and taught. Then place your bubble frame on top of it using 'glue'. Depending on how much "shrink" is left in the cotton canvas you may use water or light steam to shrink it tighter? Cut it out and take it from there.

[@MrDuLukes]

I think you need to have an extended process, and a few pinholes in the front. I think you need to stretch the canvas on the front side already, using needles to create the smallest holes possible, that get filled with gesso later. Then carefully not stretching too much lay the canvas around the edges. Although the opposite might be true... Canvas is cross stitched (?) so you might need to bend it, then lay it around... Maybe gesso 1 layer first before taking out the needles on the front. Also like many mentioned, and you tried, use water and heat from a iron. Or hot steam, really let the heat get in there. When bending wood, they let it sit for hours and hours. Also don't try to go with these extreme inverted curves from the get go, work your way up, get a feel for the fabric. This really is a doozie 😅 Anyways, best of luck, love you and your art.

[@katrinaokoronkwo]

Could you try a double layer of canvas maybe - get the first one on, with the crappy snips/edges, then wet down a second canvas with lots of watered down gesso & drape over, then pull it around the edges, soaked. Maybe it would conform rather nicely without snips, just some folds. Great problem to try to solve - worth the brainstorming!

[@holynationclub]

There is a good reason for the rectangular shape: The Golden Ratio 1.618.

[@user-mv7rn3vm1f]

Hi Alpay, so how invested are you in having that 1inch edge to your canvas? I think if you were to "sand/shave" down the edges of your frame (while maintaining the thickness of the rest of the frame for strength & support - sort of like the edge of a knife but only shaping the back of the frame edge) it would allow you to more cleanly stretch the canvas over the edge and then hide most of the required pleating on the back. The compromise would be that you get more of a floating canvas effect once its hung.

[@9liveslisa]

I love it! Great idea!

[@a705fay]

I[m afraid there will be stitching involved. When I have upholstered bedheads for fancy beds, I often had to make a seam shaped like the piece so that if you think of a shaped duvet cover going over a shaped duvet, you would need it doubled, then you would make the outline shape then slip it over by cutting through the middle of one side then pulling it tight and stapling it down, then cutting away the back half. That is the only thing i can think of. You will probably have to taper your shape somewhat to allow for stretching where you have bends but it can be done very deftly with pulling and stapling. The trouble with acute and obtuse angles is that obviously there is a lack of fabric or a massive excess of it. the only possible way to allow for this is to have two sides made to measure and stretch the 'short' side to take up the slack.

[@nathanchildress5596]

Upholstery is different because on a painting you want the threads to have an even stretch on the whole surface. Cutting slots to wrap a curve is well known, but even then the canvas would be tighter on the edges than in the middle. I wouldn't mind, but our boy here is after perfection.

[@jakreed7428]

I’ve done cutouts with HDF sheets. They’re heavy, you got to use good hardware for hanging but you just use a roto-zip and make any shape you want. One side is covered in a smooth thick paper ready for gesso and the HDF not MDF is best against moisture. It doesn’t have a canvas tooth but rough sanding a gesso finish can give you a watercolor paper feel.

[@AlpayEfe]

Well, no 2m canvas with that though 😅

[@douglasriddle6447]

Take a look at aluminum panels and Gator board for oil painting. Light weight, cut to any shape, and won't warp. There are a few videos on YT of people using both of these surfaces.

[@wolf_heart777]

loveed your work and the canvas idea...havent been able to use my hands for some time, im coming up w using either my hands or a big brush (since i have a handicap)

[@randyca9122]

To prevent the warping you need to do the same thing to both sides. If you glue canvas to one side, glue it to the other side too.

[@InvogueUK]

Always inspirational.

[@pauljs75]

MDF and contact cement with one of those rubber pressure rollers is how I'd go for it. Contact cement would go on both surfaces to be joined, and you wait until it's almost dry but still tacky. Then when both parts are pressed together they form a practically permanent bind. Applied even, go over with the pressure roller, that's never coming apart. Thus a possible plan would be to bind the canvas onto a fiberboard that's thinner than the usual wood and go from there. Also back the MDF with some kind of framing to keep it from flexing too much. There's likely some videos on upholstery or similar that will show how to do fabric applique on panels like that. You can also get that contact cement in spray adhesive form too, in order to make things easier/quicker when using it on large surfaces. Alternately if you're still trying to stretch canvas onto an irregular frame - use steam. However you'd have to be careful about a wooden frame because it would take up the moisture. But that gives a lot more potential with conforming a fabric than stretching without steaming it. Again, crossing into the domain of how some things may be done with upholstery would show how such is done.

[@MishamolProfile]

I have an idea of creating square canvas frame even bigger than complex-shaped canvas frame. Then stretch canvas over it. And glue complex-shaped canvas frame on stretched canvas fabric. Wait until the glue hardens. And cut the shape Difficulties you may encounter along the way: - Create a square frame without any crossbars in the middle - Find glue good enough to hold the canvas stretched But all difficulties seem solvable

[@vallaslin7690]

So one thing you could try is a wood panel that has canvas cut and glued to its dimensions. Or, for organic forms, to ditch the canvas and go for an oil paper or something and then reinforce it further with something else. Hell, you could even try doing an aluminum surface as well.

[@ru.sheng-ai-hua]

This painting is very beautiful. I feel like you are very good at drawing girls, and I really want to see you draw handsome boys.❤

[@ArtBySaschaGrusche]

Think of the curved frame as being composed of hundreds of rectangular pieces - a curve composed of straight lines. Accordingly, cut (almost) perpendicular lines into the edge of your canvas, creating rectangular flaps around the painting area. Attach these rectangular flaps to the side of the frame. (If you imagine this for the simplest shape, a circle, you will need a circle surrounded by rectangles, which means cutting off acute triangles from the edge, instead of simply cutting perpendicular lines into the fabric.)