Aluminium boat repair

[@alexsmith8987]

As a man who welds aluminum for a living, my only input is you REALLY need to ad a few seconds of post flow to protect your tungsten while it’s cooling. This is why it’s smoking when you let off the trigger. It should GREATLY reduce the amount of contaminants that you are introducing into the puddle upon startup

[@alexsmith8987]

And thank you for your amazing content 🤘🏻

[@25hpboatracerman]

Hi mate, Thanks so much for taking the time to help out like that. I really appreciate it. Now you said it it makes sense. I have the flow on for a few seconds at the end because I mostly use the tig with stainless but pre flow now makes sense. Thanks again, Aussie Boat Guy 😎

[@bartobuilt2601]

I've had great success using my Mig aluminum setup. with a very clean stainless Steel backer inside the hull, to stop blow outs. Saved quite a few over the years like that :-)

[@25hpboatracerman]

Hi mate, I have had the same success with a mig setup for alloy also I do use a stainless backer too on some of the holes, works well. I used the mig for about 15 years but now with the tig, I have more control and plus I can strike an ark without adding more filler which is awesome. Cheers 🍻 Aussie Boat Guy 😎

[@bartobuilt2601]

I've got a tig setup for Steel,but not Aluminum. One day :-) @@25hpboatracerman

[@25hpboatracerman]

That’s good, I’ve tried steel with my tig but for what I do with steel I use a stick now. I still have my mig setup for alloy but haven’t used it at all since the tig. I should convert the mig back to steel use then I would use it again. Cheers 🍻 Aussie Boat Guy 😎

[@shamrock4life04]

Little bit more postflow to save your tungsten mate. Great video btw

[@25hpboatracerman]

Hi mate 👋 Really appreciate you commenting and helping me out with that. It makes sense now, I’m still pretty new to tig work on alloy. All the best and cheers 🍻 Aussie Boat Guy 😎

[@bradleyfarquhar2023]

good job mate nicely done.

[@25hpboatracerman]

Cheers mate 👍 All the best Aussie Boat Guy 😎

[@josephhalwagy6435]

Mate:) Love your work. Thanks for sharing

[@25hpboatracerman]

Thanks for your encouragement mate, much appreciated 👌 Cheers 🍻 Aussie Boat Guy 😎

[@teeanahera8949]

Given that everyone has a spare TIG welder or two lying around in the garage I’m the odd one out. I’ve heard of brazing, can you cover this? Perhaps you’ve discussed this already so apologies if that’s the case.

[@25hpboatracerman]

Hi mate, I have not used aluminum brazing rods yet unfortunately, I have heard they work ok. I would assume that there would be a lot less risk of blowing big holes in the boat too. cheers 🍻 Aussie Boat Guy 😎

[@ChippyOZ]

Been waiting for this one! Are you spot pooling around the circumference to close up the hole? Looks like 2.4mm, are you using 5356?

[@25hpboatracerman]

Hi mate, Yep, spot around the circumference to close up. 2.4mm rods and 5356. Cheers 🍻 Aussie Boat Guy 😎

[@ChippyOZ]

Thanks ABG, wanting to try and do this for ages but no one has really shown what you have done so here!

[@25hpboatracerman]

Thanks mate, Glad it is a helpful video. Cheers 🍻 Aussie Boat Guy 😎

[@Diesr]

One quick question I recently ran a motor on the river 2 stroke jhonson 15hp it allways has been blowing white smoke but the cooling water was just fine just a few days ago I lost compression to about 50psi and 100 psi top bottom I see a black exhaust port score on the top piston is it possible to hone or sand out? I get that this doesn’t tell much but i have no idea what I’m working with

[@25hpboatracerman]

Hi mate, White smoke is sometimes a sign of overheating, and cooling water from the tell tale does not really indicate that the motor is being cooled properly, it just indicates that it’s got water pressure to cool if there is no blockages etc. keep in mind that the exhaust is normally cooled kinda separately to the head. the head cooling is controlled by a thermostat (so failed or stuck thermostat can cook your motor even if you got a strong tell tail) also any salt blockage in a cooling passage can cause no water flow to a specific area like the head or exhaust jacket. also a week water flow because the impeller has not been changed for two years or more can cause issues too. You would need to fully disassemble the motor to see what damage had been done. cheers 🍻 Aussie Boat Guy 😎

[@Diesr]

@@25hpboatracerman i have dissasembled it partly to where i could see the heads and the exhaust and intake sides the top cylinder has scoring for days and the bottom has none (top 50psi bottom 100 psi) it looks like it ran hot indeed i dont know if its fixable the cylinder wall has allmost nothing of scoring and it still has some crosshatch

[@25hpboatracerman]

Hi mate, Sounds like it will need a new top piston as a minimum. You need to disassemble the whole motor. You cannot gone a cylinder bore with the pistons still installed. Also you need to remove the exhaust cover to check for water passage blockages, likewise under the block where it mounts to the leg. Needs to be fully stripped down. You could follow along with one of my disassembly videos if you need, just make sure you take some pics before you disassemble and put all parts in order and bags with parts names etc so you can re-assemble easily once you sort the problem. If your block does not clean up, you may need to source another second hand. Cheers Aussie Boat Guy 😎

[@Diesr]

@@25hpboatracerman thanks so much

[@aaronwilliams323]

Should have someone hold a brass block on the inside when welding it.

[@25hpboatracerman]

Hi mate, Yep, did that for the big one, but used a stainless block. Cheers 🍻 Aussie Boat Guy 😎