Stove Surface Element - Testing and Replacement | Repair & Replace

[@AmreSupply]

Did this video help you fix your stove? Did you run into any problems? Let us know in the comments!

[@qamarzaman8139]

i have changed the element and the switch but the burner did not turn on WHY?

[@AmreSupply]

@@qamarzaman8139 Thanks for watching. It could be an issue with one of the wires. You can test the element and the wires together through the back. If one of the wires is faulty then you will not get any resistance. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fZK6aKh3fdCDh6s If those wires are good, then it could be an issue with the wires leading into the switch.

[@ricardotroncoso720]

I Just finished changing the smaller element on my kenmore stovetop. Thanks a lot! Your video just saved me $800 for a new range stove. The element was just $60. Quite a difference. Thanks again!

[@AmreSupply]

Awesome, we're glad to hear it! Cheers!

[@moommmoom]

Your note about the limiters orientation, made my day today. Thank you :)

[@AmreSupply]

You're welcome! We realize that there is some variation so we try our best to highlight those differences. Can't assume that everyone has the same version as what we are showing!

[@linagabriel6356]

Same here

[@cristophernieves7224]

Amazing explanation! Thanks

[@AmreSupply]

You're welcome, we're just happy to help!

[@sinanayenigul8731]

do we strictly need to disconnect and isolate the elements for accurate continuity tests

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. You can test without disconnecting the terminals or without removing the element form the mount. We tested on the bench so that it was easy to see on the video. In some cases removing the connectors and testing the terminals can help you get a good contact with the multimeter probes.

[@motieu7843]

At 4:41 labels 1A and 2A should be reversed per convention. My coil was good but the High Limit Switch was open, not a common break, guess the whole thing has to be replaced ?

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. You are right that the example shown right after does have the 2A terminal on the edge, but in all cases it's still best to check as there is some variation between elements. The point being the A terminals will test the element, and the B terminals will test the limiter. The limiter should have no continuity at room temperature. If there is continuity then the limit switch is faulty and the hot surface indicator light will stay on. Now if you were having issues with the burner not heating and the element tested good, then it's most likely a faulty heat switch: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fZK6aKh3fdCDh6s

[@davidzwicker9988]

I have a Jenn Air range. It’s dual burner element stopped working. The burner coils tested good and the limiter also tested good per this video. However, my element has a second probe that is not shown in this video and it is straight across from the shown limit probe. That probe did not have continuity and required the element to be replaced.

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. There is definitely some variation between models. We're glad that you we're able to narrow down the problem!

[@sharifshakir]

Great job. I have the same issue and going to fix it 🙏

[@AmreSupply]

Thank you, we're just happy to help!

[@jwmarshall7091]

I have a GE Range Model# JSP42SN1SS Flat Top Glass slid into Granite that the inside coil of the 9" Radiant Element is apparently burnt out, my concern is do I have to take the stove controls off which are located on the front in order to change the bad element?

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. That is a stove that I haven't seen personally so I can't tell you for sure. To lift up the cooktop there might be screws behind the control panel or behind the oven. You can take a close look at the parts breakdown here as you take it apart as this can help show you where some of the screws are located. Since this is an "exploded" view it will still look a little different once you start the repair.www.amresupply.com/lookup/208123

[@tvtime5050]

Hi I have a Frigidaire stove smooth top stove ,your videos have been helpful,But I have replaced the switch and the burner and still doesn’t work ,what do u think about this thanks Billy

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching, we're glad that you've been finding the videos helpful! If the switch and burner are both new, then it's likely an issue with the wires. You can test the wires and the element together through the back as seen here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fZK6aKh3fdCDh6s If there is no continuity then the wires should be replaced. As well make sure that the wire connectors make good contact with all the terminals.

[@1nfiniteSeek3r]

I wish I watched this last week. I had a problem with current controller attached to heat switch, I couldn't fully take the oven apart, so I tried to remove the current controller in place, I basically ripped it apart so I wrapped it all in insulating tape and left it in place. The next time it switched on there was a loud snap. What do you think I might have damaged?

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. It depends on a few things. If any of the wire connectors were loose then you might have heard an electrical arc when you switched on power. Did the snap happen when you turned that heat switch on? Or did it happen when you just reconnected power to the whole stove?

[@1nfiniteSeek3r]

@@AmreSupply thanks for such a prompt reply, the original issue was that the faulty hob had become stuck in the On position, so it was when I turned on the cooker wall switch, yes i think it was an arc. I should get a multimeter in the next couple days so I'll be able to test each part of the circuit to see exactly what's dead.

[@AmreSupply]

@@1nfiniteSeek3r We're just happy to help! Keep us posted on what you discover, it's always interesting to hear what people find out.

[@TheLeckerlink]

I have a GE Triple Radiant Element 12" (part WG02F02055). The outside and inside rings heat but the middle ring does not. I replaced the burner but the same problem occurred. Does this mean that the only other cause of the problem would be a defective infinite switch?

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. Yes it's a good sign that the heat switch is faulty but it could also be an issue with the wire. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fZK6aKh3fdCDh6s This video will show you how to test the element and wires together through the back as well as test the heat switch. Some triple heating elements have a separate toggle switch to turn on the 3rd ring. If you see a separate switch then you can also test it for continuity. Hope this helps!

[@Michaelt3474]

Thanks Vance!

[@AmreSupply]

You're welcome Michael!

[@blikpils]

The on light (cooktop indicator) on my stove stays on but the rest of the system seems to work fine and turns off/on whenever i need it. what can be a good first place to look at for fixing it?

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. If the cooktop indicator light stays on then it is an issue with one of the heat switches: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qWbMeGlnoKasgLM Alternatively if the hot surface light stays on then it's an issue with one of the limiters on the heating elements: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eYnLnp-prMxmZrs

[@Izmena34]

hi, will u help me pls, what part do i need to change if my oven big burner not controlled, burn on high all the time

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. If the burner stays on high then it is likely an issue with the heat switch. You can see more in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gHzVo4KcobhkiK8

[@gsonn18]

THANKS!

[@AmreSupply]

You're welcome!

[@jeremiah1797]

i have a Kenmore electric stove touch pad... the element stay on high and it doesn't go off, one of the wire that plug into the element looks burn, do i need to buy the element .

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. Does your stove use dials? If so then it could be an issue with the heat switch: kzbin.info/www/bejne/omScp4Kkndahnsk The burn mark on the wire does imply that there might have been a short or a surge in power so you can test to see if the element is shorted, which is also shown in that video. A shorted element will need to be replaced. Now if your stove elements are not connected to dials but are instead connected to the control board, the power will be switched on by small relays. A power surge can cause issues with these relays. If you've eliminated everything else than it could be an issue with the control board.

[@jeremiah1797]

@@AmreSupply Hi Vance, yes mine Kenmore electric stove does not have dials. it's all touch pad, only one element stays on high. i took the element off, its the larger one and tape the wires with electrical tape and still use the other ones for cooking but i have to unplug it when not in use because it will still have electricity running though i have the element off ,but that is a pain unplugging and plugging all the time to use the stove, i test the element and with multi- meter and i get continuity on one of the probe on limiter with reading of 50 and it makes the continuity beeping sound but when i test the other probe of limiter and element it don't buzz but reads 80. could it be the element? i can't find where those wire leads to the control board. thanks

[@AmreSupply]

@@jeremiah1797 It could still be an issue with the element. As for your test. Testing for continuity between 1a and 2a should have continuity, as that is testing across the high limit switch through the element coils. That is for the heating circuit. You can also test to see if the element is shorted by testing 1 terminal and the shiny metal body of the element. You can do this for both terminals. If there is any continuity, then the element is shorted and will need to be replaced. Testing between 1b and 2b should not show any continuity as this is for the hot surface indicator light. This is not connected to the heating circuit and will not affect the element as it runs. If these tests passed then you might need a new control board. This is shown in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hYO3mmeigd6ip9k

[@ElBU3NT10]

THANKS FOR YOU HELP

[@AmreSupply]

You're welcome, we're just happy to help!

[@jellybeanteacher]

My burner has power, but will not adjust the temperature, it stays on high.

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. If your stove element stays on high, then it's likely a faulty heat switch. Over time the contacts in the switch can wear down and start sticking, preventing it from cycling on and off at lower settings. You can see how to fix this in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/omScp4Kkndahnsk

[@qamarzaman8139]

i have changed the element and the switch but the burner did not turn on WHY?

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. It could be an issue with one of the wires. You can test the element and the wires together through the back. If one of the wires is faulty then you will not get any resistance. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fZK6aKh3fdCDh6s If those wires are good, then it could be an issue with the wires leading into the switch.

[@simbad-4724]

Hi, it is possible to remove, and replace only limiter ? In my element the rod on the top is burned.

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. There are some ceramic elements that have replaceable limiters but in most you'll have to replace the entire heating element.

[@josipfurundzija1006]

Prevod na hr

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching.