Anker SOLIX F3800 - Your Questions Answered! DC Charging Cables - Ideal Solar Panels - and More!

Learn more about the Anker SOLIX F3800 HERE: shrsl.com/4fc69
Have an in depth solar or power station question? Get direct contact with me HERE:
asqme.com/@Jasonoid
Charging Cables for the F3800
Female XT60 to APP: amzn.to/3wDgtmX
APP to Ring Terminals (Battery Connection): amzn.to/3T4qtwL
APP to MC4 (Solar Connection): amzn.to/3Tmt5HO
Large Format Compatible Solar Panels for the F3800
signaturesolar.com/q-cells-47...
signaturesolar.com/bluesun-46...
signaturesolar.com/adani-sola...
signaturesolar.com/hyundai-39...
signaturesolar.com/rec-370w-m...
High Quality 48v LFP Batteries
EG4 LL 48v Server Rack Battery: signaturesolar.com/eg4-ll-s-4...
EG4 Base 48v Server Rack Battery: signaturesolar.com/eg4-lifepo...
OTHER USEFUL SOLAR VIDEOS
- Finding 400w panels for CHEAP: • The SECRET to Finding ...
- Solar Panels - Parallel Vs Series: • Series VS Parallel! A ...
- Choosing the right solar panel for your power station: • Finding & Connecting t...
The use of affiliate links provide a small commission for me when you use them. Thanks for supporting my channel content and allowing me to do future comparison videos! More videos coming soon!
Video Timestamps:
Introduction: (0:00)
Selecting Solar Panels: (1:00)
Buying DC Charging Cables: (7:35)
Alternate Charging Options: (9:22)
Ask Me Questions: (14:04)
#jasonoid #ankersolix #ankersolixf3800 #asqme

[@Forevertrue]

You could not give a much better explanation than that Jason! Never disappointed. A broad swath of good info for all battery and solar users.

[@PeaceChanel]

Thank You Jason for All that you are doing for our Planet Earth.... Peace.. Shalom.. Salam.. Namaste 🙏🏻 😊 🌈 ✌ ☮ ❤

[@andrewvillavicencio8496]

Excellent! thank you!! Definitely the most informative and thorough in YT. Thank you for adding the product links! Just another extra detail that makes this more awesome!!

[@DYT-jx4jp]

Thanks for the video! Even though I don't plan to get this unit, I learned a bunch with you answering the questions that can be applied to other units/situations. Appreciate the option for paying you for a one on one question. 👍

[@garagejim1956]

Thanks Jason, lots of information. A bit over my knowledge curve. Have been enjoying your 101's.

[@swordfish1526]

Your videos are very informative and helpful, thanks a lot.

[@nothingmatters3802]

The 60 volt limit on some of these systems convinced me to buy a bunch of cheap 51.2v 50 AH batteries and have them hooked up to an MPPT controller with 150 volts. It's not portable, but it's cheaper than buying a spare battery, and I don't ever need to worry about having the right PV input and heavy gauge for high amperage.

[@RandiG63]

Thanks Jason I learned a lot and a new website for solar panels 😊👍

[@tommills8092]

Bought the F3800 thru kickstart program. I have learned more about this unit in your 2 videos that all the reading of the manual/tutorials. Both of your videos are now on the home Anker F3800 fb page with lots of good responses. PS, I use my golf carts 6.54kWh battery as backup to the F3800. Easy Peasy. Thanks.

[@stevenblack122]

Home run video. Thanks for ideas. Good to see a consulting option too.

[@Curious_Cat123]

Very useful. Thank you!

[@Jasonoid]

You're welcome!

[@hyadav314]

Thanks a lot

[@ryangreen3332]

Thanks!

[@Jasonoid]

You bet!

[@chrisk5433]

Thanks for the update. Sounds like Anker engineers need to just figure out how to charge with AC (from a generator) while keeping the 240v plug alive. The market is waiting for a unit of this size with this capability. As presented, using an external DC supply to charge is an expensive method with too many points of failure. Sorry.

[@Jasonoid]

Totally agree! Many people bought this unit without proper knowledge of how it functions (due to other youtube reviews not covering these quirks). This video just shows a way around that if you already have the unit. Hoping for a better more refined V2 model.

[@johntate5284]

Great followup on a really interesting product. Despite it's limitations, the Anker F3800 is a good candidate for running a split phase load during a power outage if you want an all-in-one approach that is about the least expensive option. Since you already have the EG4 server rack battery, a good approach for do-it-yourself might be the EG4 6000XP split phase inverter with 8000 watts of solar input for $1499. You could have that and the server rack battery for considerably less than the F3800 with none of the limitations, including solar up to 500 VDC input. Maybe a project for the future. And if you want it to be portable, mount them both on a hand truck! Thanks again for going the extra mile:)

[@Jasonoid]

I have been looking at that model. I think it would be a great comparison between DIY and Power Stations.

[@larrywong7834]

​@@Jasonoid Yes. Yes. Yes. Would love to see that EG4 comparison. Especially for each the WiFi Controllable Features shown on their Displays. As Well as What Data actually are shown by each. Jason. Very Excited for that Video.

[@Noelshepherd]

Thanks Jason for the follow up video. Again, very informative. I just think this power station requires too much work-a-rounds. I respect Anker products but I think they could have made better engineering decisions on this one.

[@joneberle4952]

Thank you! A video on all of the certifications that are shown on panels might be helpful to many viewers. Ul1741, ETL us, SA us, CSA, etc. it is a bit confusing. I thought that panels had to say UL 1741, but I understand that to not be correct now. Are those certifications only required on grid tied systems? When do panels installations need to be “inspected”? Only when they are installed on the main dwelling roof, or when grid tied. Any of your expertise would be appreciated.

[@collspec2]

Maybe one more test with the EG4 chargeverter would be nice.

[@Jasonoid]

I don't have the EG4 Chargeverter, I would have tested it in the video if I had it :(

[@corymyers9973]

Thanks for your detailed review! Follow-up quesitons: re: Self-consumption mode with solar, wtd w excess solar generation? Would a 48V DC battery such as EG4LL in video be a better (cheaper? or more efficient?) addition than an Anker extension battery? seems same price, more Watts, any way to automate their use/interactions besides manual swap of plugs? Any specific propane generators that have built-in converter to put either AC or DC and work with this model in a low-sun / long outage scenario? I'm looking to leap at the 2 unit + smart panel deal (currently ~$6400 at 30%off) and then get solar panels you suggested (scale size later after testing 1200W config) or the more recent shade-tolerant diode versions. Primary purpose is a backup unit for ~6hr outage that happen 2x/year. Self-consumption w solar off-grid supplement to routine use is a way to justify it as worth more than a standard generac. Also, any idea if this eventually can be combined with the Solix X1 option? Do they use the same panels? It's a much larger investment, so would wait a few years if ever for the X1.

[@AskIveSolar]

I cant lie, Im sick of 60 volt input limits. haha. I saw a grecell that has a 75 volt limit, its not great either but at least you can do a couple 20v panels in series and not be too worried. Good video to answer some questions Sir.

[@Jasonoid]

I wish a company would make a decent step down converter so you could connect in 200v of solar and it would output 58 volts or something.... Then you could plug in any solar panels you would want to these 60v units. I can dream haha

[@AskIveSolar]

@@Jasonoid I think we all have that same dream. ha. Setite has mentioned like that too.

[@BryanMayberry]

Great in-depth video! Thanks! My question is, since the battery voltage in the Anker is 48, will panels with the voltage specs below be high enough to charge the Anker unit? Rated max power = 380 watts Open circuit voltage = 44.8 Voltage at Pmax = 36.8 Short circuit current = 10.91 Max system voltage = 1000

[@Jasonoid]

Yes, the charge controller boosts the input voltage to charge the battery (since the peak voltage is 60v). The panel specs you listed will work properly when wired in parallel.

[@BryanMayberry]

@@Jasonoidthank you😉

[@rickdougherty1371]

Thank you, another EXCELLENT vid! Just what I was wondering as I have one of these ordered. If I understand correctly: If my panels exceed the 60 volt PV max the unit will not charge at all, but if I exceed the 25 amp max it will still charge at that max rate? Couldn't I just use a Mc4 to XT60 25 ft extension cable and ditch the Anderson adaptor?

[@Jasonoid]

Yep, you can ditch the Anderson adapter. I just found cables that would add flexibility between solar and battery inputs. Your cable needs to be 10 awg to be safe. 8 awg would be better for a longer run of wiring. Going over 60v with solar will damage the power station. Going over 25 amps is just fine. Say you have 30 amps of solar panels, the power station will only ever use 25 amps of that power.

[@user--PM]

one would hope that if you give too much voltage the power station would refuse to charge rather than become damaged, however some do not feature this function and will burn themselves out instead of protecting themselves. it is best to follow the guideline and not exceed the input voltage to prevent damage. regarding the amperage, the powerstation is limited to being able to draw 25 amps, so even if you supply a maximum of 30 amps, the load will only ever max out at 25 amps. the benefit of supplying a higher peak amps from solar will be that the solar curve will sustain the higher peak for longer, meaning that you will get the 25 amps of power from 30 amps of available solar longer. this is also referred to as over provisioning. when selecting the proper cable wire gauge, consider the length of the run, as the longer the run, the more losses will occur, due to the lower voltage, and i recommend a wire gauge calculator be used to help with this.

[@AdditionalPizza]

I don't know if you still have this device and can check but I'm running into an issue with my bluetti and I think I'm out of luck getting any return done with them. So it's super expensive for me, but do you have any idea of this unit has the same grounding issue that bluetti has? If I plug an electric pressure washer, with a gfci plug on it, into my bluetti it instantly trips the gfci. If I use a neutral bond plug it results in the bluetti showing an error code but still trips the gfci. I'm under the impression this is because of the way the portable power station does grounding. I'm not very experienced in electrical, but I can't afford to buy another unit and have it not work for my application. Any chance this unit won't have that issue? My bluetti powers my pressure washer while the station is plugged into my wall, but just trips when I unplug it.

[@user--PM]

it would have been nice if the DC input voltage was able to get over 100v input instead of 60 for more solar in series instead, but with 60v more cost will be involved in thicker wire gauge.

[@Jasonoid]

I totally agree, PM! I was hoping this video would help those who already purchased this unit to get the best performance.

[@ryangreen3332]

Hey Jasonoid!... What size fuses would you recommend on the Q.Cell 475W panels (using 3 in parallel)? Also, how long would you say the run needs to be to have to bump up from 10AWG to 8AWG?

[@Jasonoid]

If the run is over 20 feet, I'd upgrade to 8 awg. You'll lose less power to voltage drop if you upgrade. Using those three panels in parallel I'd put a 15 amp in line fuse on each one: amzn.to/49oUxti

[@ryangreen3332]

​@@Jasonoid Thanks so much man!

[@randallgrimm5241]

Regarding Voc, when discussing how it goes higher than stated when it's really cold out, what does that mean? What is "really cold", and what kind of "leeway" are you talking about. Like if Voc is stated at 59.6, is that too high? Also, what would happens if you have more panels available than the 1,200w max per port? Like say you had 5x 400w panels in parallel, going into one port, does the Solix just cap out at 1,200, or is there a danger to having too much?

[@Jasonoid]

You can see up to 5% higher numbers when it's near freezing and below. The colder it is outside, the higher the voltage...but it does seem to stop around 5% above the VOC on the spec sheet. I would give yourself 5 to 8 volts extra room on the charge controller if you plan to be in extreme cold temps. If you live in a warmer climate it shouldn't be that big of an issue. As for the 1200watts. That is the software limited number. You can have more watts in your array, the power station will just limit automatically to 1200 watts. Having 1500 watts of solar won't damage the charge controller, it will just max out the charging input more frequently. This is called "over-paneling" your power station.

[@PrestonGladd]

I purchased this to use for camping, with a secondary use for home backup, do you know if a dc to dc charge controller would work on the xt90 input? To me as long as I’m within the range of specs it seems like it would, just didn’t know if there would be any concerns as I’m not an electrical engineer! 😂. I was thinking something like the renogy 50 amp dc to dc with mppt or maybe a victron dc to dc.

[@Jasonoid]

It's all about voltage. A higher voltage will get you a faster charging speed. A 50amp DC to DC charger will put out 50amps for a 12v battery. If the charging voltage is under 32v, the F3800 will limit the input to 10 amps (that 50 amp DC to DC charger will only charge at 10 amps). This video shows how to take a lower battery voltage and to boost it up for faster charging: kzbin.info/www/bejne/f2ibg6ugh72HpJY This video shows how using a higher voltage battery increases the charging speed: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qnyXe36jm9OXnpo

[@PrestonGladd]

@@Jasonoid awesome! Thanks for the speedy reply and links! I subbed!

[@AlanM-rm6cl]

The cable with fuse you used has an ATC fuse that seems rated for 32v and below. Would it be safe with a 48v battery?

[@Jasonoid]

I've been using ATC fuses on my server rack battery for over a year, no issues at all. I think you'll be okay.

[@kevink9365]

Delta 2 Max review coming?

[@Jasonoid]

Delta 2 Max? kzbin.info/www/bejne/m4fcpZ2KgdeLa7s

[@undisclosed2673]

Great video! Do you know of any simple DC power supplies that can provide the full 1200 watt input limit? I would hope to use two of them with a larger generator to be able to recharge uninterrupted.

[@Jasonoid]

High powered AC to DC converters are expensive. The BK Precision power supply used in the video cost me over $1500! The best route is to pick up a 48v LFP battery and just charge that with solar and AC power, and then that dumps into the DC Charging ports of the F3800.

[@undisclosed2673]

Thanks. Doing some more research it looks like people have had success with the EG4 Chargeverter ($500) and the BOSYTRO 60V 25A ($100). I’m tempted to try the BOSYTRO.

[@undisclosed2673]

Wanptek Dc Power Supply Variable 60V 20A 1200W is another one that looks a little more user friendly. $240

[@Jasonoid]

@@undisclosed2673 yes, there are cheaper options available. Just remember that power supplies are not meant to run at 100% load for very long. They will fail after a short time if pushed to their limits.

[@ryangreen3332]

Can the server rack battery be charging from solar, while also charging the f3800?

[@Jasonoid]

Yes

[@Mega1andy2]

i have an ecoflow river 2 pro, im wondering if i could try to get a 220 watt bifacial solar panel.

[@Jasonoid]

As long as the voltage open circuit of the solar panel doesn't go over the peak voltage input of the power station it will work just fine.

[@Ecgmma]

Cables that came with 3800 for solar 3 to one. What are those used for and do I need 4 of those for 6 panels. I want to buy 6 Hyundai panels. How would I wire them? Thank you much Greatly appreciated

[@Jasonoid]

Those are MC4 parallel adapters. They allow you to connect 3 solar panels in parallel. If you need more guidance on the process feel free to reach out to me HERE: asqme.com/@Jasonoid

[@Ecgmma]

I have Bluetti 200max. Could I use it to charge f3800 through solar port? I want to keep the 240

[@Jasonoid]

You could charge the F3800 with the DC Output of your AC200max at 13v and 10 amps, so about 130 watts. Not very fast charging 😕

[@AlanM-rm6cl]

Surprised that the EG4 AC-DC charger wouldn't work. I've been using the EG4 Chargeverter successfully to charge my F3800 through the XT60 solar input. Also used third party AC to DC power supplies (2 different brands). Wondering what make the EG4 charger fault out?

[@Jasonoid]

The charge controller wouldn't turn on with the EG4 charger connected. I'm guessing the charger didn't see any voltage from the power station and the power station didn't see any voltage from the charger. Both were waiting for something to happen.

[@atsvc43]

Hi, are you using the new old old chargeverter? Also, what gauge wire from the unit to the xt-60 inputs? Thanks

[@AlanM-rm6cl]

@@atsvc43 It’s the original Chargeverter and I’m using 10 gauge Xt60i cables bought on Amazon.

[@lamesadave]

@lamesadave 0 seconds ago Jason: Assuming your PV array output voltage is over 60v, would it be possible to use a solar charge controller with a 60+v input and a 48v output to charge the Anker Solix 3800 directly into the XT60 port(s)? Thanks

[@Jasonoid]

I doubt it would work, just like the 48v AC battery charger didn't work in the video. The MPPT charge controller needs to see a 'really battery voltage' when connected in order to know the state of charge of the battery is to charge properly.

[@lamesadave]

Thank you. Makes sense.

[@warrenwu8559]

@@Jasonoid Do you think a solar charge controller with a 48V buffer battery would work OK? Basically use the SCC to charge the 48V battery, while having the 48V battery also feeding into the XT60 input of the F3800? The 48V battery would act not just as a buffer between the SCC and the F3800, but also as expansion capacity. One negative I see is that the F3800 if not full, will try to drain the 48V battery completely. But if the 48V is a server rack battery or similar, its built-in protection would shut-off before it gets drained completely. Wondering if with your expensive AC-DC power supply, you could test whether the F3800 input limit is strictly at 60V, or whether there's some tolerance above that. After all, Anker's own portable 200W and 400W panels hav a Voc of 57.6V, which doesn't provide much margin for temp conditions...

[@Jasonoid]

@@warrenwu8559 I don't thinkna AC will work since it needs to see a battery voltage to work properly. The battery charger failed to work in the video for the same reason.

[@dutchharbour5909]

Hello, so if I purchased 3 of the Hyundai 395watt solar panels in parallel, what size fuse would I need and would I only need 3 fuses total?

[@Jasonoid]

This is what you'll need: amzn.to/4bVBU1Y Put one fuse on each postive solar wire before combining them into parallel. Make sure to use at least 10awg wire. 8awg wire for a longe run to avoid voltage drop (wasted power).

[@dutchharbour5909]

@@Jasonoid Awesome thank you. I clicked the link, they are the 15amp fuses? I will use 10awg wire. Thanks again.

[@Jasonoid]

@@dutchharbour5909 yep, 15 amp fuses.

[@dutchharbour5909]

Hello, I hate to ask again but I am getting mixed information about sizing my solar panels with the Anker F3800. Your link for the REC 370w panels from signature solar would have my total solar input around 47v VOC and 29.4 amps approximately if I used 3 of these panels in parallel per DC input. I spoke to a sales person at signature who said the amps were to high for the Anker and that they would damage the Anker unit. My plan was to put 3 of these panels in parallel (x2) for each of the Anker F3800's DC inputs using a 15 amp fuse and using 50amp x 3-way branch connectors with a 30amp breaker switch between my branch connector and the Anker unit, I also wasn't sure if I needed the extra 30amp fuse after the branch connector. Has anyone successfully tested a solar setup long term and knows which fuse specs/ panels I would need to be successful? My runs are short and I am using 10AWG wire. From the Anker to the home I plan to use the Nema 14-50 cable into a SS250P generator outlet with interlock. The max breaker on my home is 240v and 50amps. Thanks in advance.

[@Jasonoid]

That's a bit complicated to explain in a single youtube comment. I'm happy to help here: asqme.com/@Jasonoid

[@dutchharbour5909]

@@Jasonoid Thank you for the thorough and detailed response. Great value and great service!

[@chrissinclair8705]

Awesome video but you forgot question 4: Do those wheels support up to at least 20MPH so I can tow this behind my ebike and drive to Mexico? It may take a while...

[@Jasonoid]

They sure do! It even has little booster packs that deploy out of the sides haha

[@chrissinclair8705]

For fun I did a calculation, with my internal 15amp 52v 780w battery charged with this thing charging it I would get 345.6 kms range on my ebike which ironically supports pass through charging. I may have to buy an expansion pack or two to make it to Mexico. Now fortunately if you tilt the unit it's long enough I could stick my awesome Powerness 120w panel(it's actually rated at 140w) to it to increase that range a bit. Man I wish I could get those 120w Powerness S120X panels again the 120w has been sold out for like 6 months. It's open circuit voltage is rated for 21.6 but it's more like 24v and it's max amperage power is 7.78amps it blows away my ecoworthy 120w panel which is an excellent panel but this is on a whole new level. I guess people liked them, hopefully they'll have some in time for summer I'd like to give away that ecoworthy panel to a friend as it's a very decent panel still and replace it with 2 S120X's for charging my ebike either in series or parallel with my MPPT-7210A programmable boost converter. In the winter I was getting about 1.3 amps(needs amps to boost to 58.8v to charge ebike battery) in crappy winter sun with just the powerness itself with dubious angling. The onboard LED display was saying around 4.5amps output at 10:30am in the dead of winter in Toronto which is pretty far North we don't get much sun up here in the winter. Can't wait to try it in the summer.@@Jasonoid

[@Jasonoid]

@@chrissinclair8705 I love when panels are 'under rated' so you actually get more power in perfect conditions. Those MPPT-7210a units are also interesting to mess with.... Perfect for charging ebike batteries as that's how you use yours. I've seen many videos on that topic.

[@chrissinclair8705]

It's an older unit now but the programmability is hard to beat. Especially when I went from a 48v to a 52v I just changed the settings. It will do up to 90v so a 72v battery it will do no problem.@@Jasonoid

[@Jasonoid]

@@chrissinclair8705 I wish I had a connection to some Chinese manufacturer to request they make stuff like that. I've been dreaming of a high powered buck converter for high voltage solar panels. A high powered 150v to 55v drop down converter for all these power stations that have a 60v cutoff.

[@annshephard3929]

Wouldn't each one of three sets of three panels connected in parallel you referred to exceed 25A?

[@Jasonoid]

Yes, but the power station limits the amperage input automatically. Say you had 100 amps of solar panels in parallel, the charge controller would still only pull 25 amps 👍

[@annshephard3929]

@@Jasonoid Good to know. Thanks! :D

[@donblade5405]

Sorry I am missing something BUT CAN THIS ANKER OR EVEN F2600 SIMPLY BE CHARGED WITH THE DC CABLE TO CAR ??

[@Jasonoid]

Yes, it will charge at 100w from the 12v socket in your car... and take a very very very long time 👍

[@donblade5405]

@@Jasonoid THANK YOU! TY!! So i have a F2600 can i buy a device for my CAR TO SPEED IT UP??? Also can i use my CAR INVERTER (uses a normal 3 prong plug) will this speed it up?? ty

[@Jasonoid]

This is a plug n play option to charge off your car starter battery: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hKLRipSngtyeqqc Charging off the built in car inverter is likely not to work. It needs to have a pure sine wave.

[@jamesleroy1473]

How much is that ac to dc charger where can you get it

[@Jasonoid]

The BK Precision 9116 is around $2999 new. You can find them on Ebay for used about half that cost. Any high amperage power supply is going to be very expensive.

[@jamesleroy1473]

@@Jasonoid great thank you. I really wanted that unit but losing 240 while AC charging is a major draw back

[@Jasonoid]

@@jamesleroy1473 you don't have to wait very long before something new comes out with even better features. Just wait a little longer and you'll find something else.

[@jamesleroy1473]

@@Jasonoid I hope so. Your videos and info have been a major guidance for me in the solar world. I like most really like the 240 so hopefully they will maybe do a system update. If this system had come out sooner I may gone with them but I need to integrate my Bluetti with it unless they match capacities

[@zfontain1975]

If they can't put better charge controller with higher volts why go though the trouble. Server rack is the only way anymore.

[@Jasonoid]

They basically took two of the Anker F2000 charge controllers, upped the amperage by 5 amps, and called it good. They didn't put anything new in this model vs what they had created in the past. They need to do market research and find out what people are looking for...

[@simon359]

Too many compromises on this Anker! I’d pick another brand.

[@Jasonoid]

Thanks for sharing your feedback!

[@LamoidZombieDog]

Definitely not compromises. For me, it's perfect. I will be charging from two 48v batteries acting as external battery expansion being charged by solar, so having low voltage high amps is perfect

[@mondotv4216]

@@LamoidZombieDogYou still can't use it as a UPS off 120VAC without sacrificing most of the functionality. To me you'd be much better off hooking up your 48V server rack batteries to a hybrid inverter with 240V capability.

[@GimiH1]

Going back. Microwave or kettle won't at run full power if ac charging. Very limited functionality when charging. AC output has a timer for max 23 hours 55 minutes... then it turns OFF! Even when only using solar. Timer off and the ac output is off, so is the refrigerator or freezer is off. You have to reset it every day. Limited solar charging. We're returning the unit.

[@Jasonoid]

@GimiH1 if you leave the timer to 'off' and you have a constant load, it doesn't turn off. If you set a time in the app. It will turn off at that time.

[@Noelshepherd]

…forgot to mention 8 gauge copper wire is expensive.

[@Jasonoid]

Yeah, 50 foot roll is much more expensive than 12awg..... It's little things like that that these companies seem to ignore / don't care about. Give us high volts so we don't have to deal with huge wires and voltage drop!

[@sickazzwin4262]

will it charge itself? say I have the solix running a very light load from the 240v plugged into my transfer switch, the charge the battery from its own power source using the ac to dc device? do you know if that would even be possible?

[@Jasonoid]

There are losses when the AC inverter outputs power and during the charging process. It might allow charging but the the power station would lose more power over time than gain it.

[@brucesimpson8579]

Seems to have a low-end solar charge controller built in due to the maximum voltage accepted.

[@Jasonoid]

I wouldn't call it 'low end', they just opted for low-voltage / high amperage on this model. That particular combo isn't ideal for most applications but it can still work. Hopefully future models have a charge controller that can handle real voltage!

[@gofy8481]

yeah these things are cool, especially the Ecoflow Ultra, but in reality you need a gas, diesel, or propane generator for any long term needs...more than a day a two. Get a duel fuel, run it on propane, and you won't have the problem of gas sitting for a long time. Imagine, you buy a predator, Westinghouse, or champion 12500 duel fuel for 1500 max. Done. These power stations are just a shiny object. Good for Van Life, I own two Ecoflows, but they are not serious for home backup.

[@OnusBones]

This is yet another argument in favor of getting a server-rack battery...

[@brucesimpson8579]

Correct. Signature Solar has some good options to put together an affordable system.

[@Jasonoid]

Yep, and they extended their free shipping event!

[@dubas1974]

dumbest thing ever. this anker would be great if it had AC pass through. I won't buy it until they fix that.

[@larrymcintyre4407]

blah blah blah

[@Jasonoid]

Most devices I test arent engineered so badly that I have to make a follow up video to clarify how to use it or charge it properly. This video is FREE info for those who got conned into buying one of these.

[@andrewvillavicencio8496]

@@Jasonoid I like mine, it has limitations that have work a rounds but for the money (I got it on kickstarter) , the ability to run my well pump I do not feel I got conned into it. Hopefully it will only get better with firmware updates.

[@visitmyluxuryhome]

Howdy. Would it be ok to keep this in a hot garage? I live in AZ, and it often gets to 120 degrees in the garage for a month or two in the summer. Would that be ok for this unit?

[@Jasonoid]

The specs list the operating temps below 104F. It might be fine about that temp but it's hard to tell how it would handle those temps.