How To: GE Washer Mode Shifter & Shaft Assembly WH38X10017

How To Replace: GE Mode Shifter & Shaft Assembly WH38X10017 www.appliancepartspros.com/ge-...
Symptoms: failed; the washer isn’t switching between the cycles.
Tools needed: putty knife, towel, pliers, 1/4” nut driver, flathead screwdriver, 5/16” nut driver, 7/16” socket with ratchet, spanner wrench with adapter, plastic hammer, wire brush, needle nose pliers, broomstick, 3/8” socket with ratchet, 1/2” socket with ratchet, torque wrench set to 90 lbs., zip tie, 3/4” wrench, liquid detergent, Rust Buster penetrating oil TJ93241 www.appliancepartspros.com/pro...
Optional: a chisel.
This GE made Washer Mode Shifter & Shaft Assembly replaces the following older part numbers on General Electric, Hotpoint, RCA, Sears and Kenmore Washers: 1475792, WH38X10015.
Buy the new Washer Mode Shifter & Shaft Assembly WH38X10017 here: www.appliancepartspros.com/ge-...
Most orders delivered in 2 business days or less.
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[@condor5635]

Use silicone grease on inside of seal and Permatext gasket maker all around the outside area and in the outer seal at 23:44. This will make a much better seal preventing leaks. Did this 4 years ago and it’s still running strong. Some silicone on the spilt ring and washer also helps them from seizing to the shaft in the future. Great video

[@appliancepartspros]

Thank you. Glad your washer is still running well. If there is anything we can help you with in the future please let us know.

[@Redmoom]

Great video breakdown on this process to replace the shifter assembly & shaft.

[@nicolemaldonado6591]

This guy is the Bob Ross of washers 🤦🏽‍♀️👌🏼 good job making this sound so simple to do 🤦🏽‍♀️🤦🏽‍♀️🤦🏽‍♀️🤦🏽‍♀️🤦🏽‍♀️🤦🏽‍♀️

[@darrellhudspeth]

My was washer was showing all the symptoms related to the mode shifter being bad. Wouldn't spin, 4 series blinking light on the inverter board, Extremely loud banging and noise during other cycles. I watched this video twice to understand the steps, ordered a new shaft from appliance pros (which came as a refurb so don't be surprised if it looks as dirty as the old one), new bearing, hub nut, seal, split ring, etc. total was about $200 for all parts that arrived about 3 days after order. I followed the video one step at a time on the iPad, pausing it between each one, and once I got it completely broken down, we cleaned all parts and made them look (and smell) new. The mildew smell was strong due to some buildup in the pump. Once reassembled, the excitement was high. Plugged in, reset the motor with 7 lid drops, and started an empty cycle. SO much quieter during the modes. BUT, when trying to spin I got the same result. No spin. Turns out the LID SWITCH was also bad, and of course I didn't order that so couldn't complete the project until I get that in. Point is, this is an in depth breakdown and reassembly, but with any mechanical sense you can do it. You will need the spanner wrench, but I got away with a small pipe wrench and a dead blow hammer but it wasn't the easiest. Thanks for the thorough video! I'm thinking about starting a side business after accomplishing this rebuild. Saved me $500-$1000 getting a new one. Took about 4 hours to take apart, clean, and reassemble.

[@Therandombaby]

Short cut fix for those with stripped teeth on the shaft assembly. Pull off the bottom of the washer and remove the fly wheel. There is small metal washer on the shaft that can be removed and the broken part comes right out. I was unable to find that part by itself so I ordered the whole assembly and removed the part I needed. It took 15 minutes from start to finish, and I didn't have to disassemble the whole machine.

[@herrcobblermachen]

First the coupler wouldn't come off, so I bought a $25 pulley puller from the auto parts place, 4" i think, worked like a charm. Then, the hub nut under the agitator cone wouldn't come off despite PB blaster, the spanner wrench, and long exposure to a heat gun. It got dremmeled after Day 3 with a cut off wheel (making sure not to damage anything beneath it). I cut into each side of the washer about halfway down and that was enough to relieve some tension on it to get it off with the spanner and hammer. THEN the split ring wouldn't come off and the pulley puller was employed again and worked like a charm. If you have this thing tore down this far just replace virtually every nut and washer you come across. Give everything a good scrubbin too since you have it apart. The drain hose had a lot of water in it, so make sure you have a nice large towel when you disconnect the hose. I have entered the get-the-belt-back-on phase.

[@lp-pf5el]

Thank God for videos and instructions

[@cectechss]

Reading the comments, seems like I'm the only one who had the mounting hub fused to the shaft. Used plenty of p b blaster, vinegar, hot water. Letting it soak in for days and nights. Used a scissor jack and 2 x 4 to try and left out the inner tub. Broke the mounting hub. Then found out GE does not sell that part. You would have to buy the inner tub as a complete assembly. Will now part it out and call scrap metal collector to come get the shell.

[@cectechss]

Forgot to add the complete inner tub assembly is over $600.

[@screechy003]

Did the drive shaft sit flush against the seal/washer after you fastened it to the base? Mine gets pulled back once i fasten it and the washer doesn't create a seal

[@terrydoberstein6742]

When My WJRR4170GWW agitates it sounds like it is grinding metal. Is this the reason you would change part Wh38X10017. This is the only issue I have with washer. Thank You for your time.

[@geoffreyscott1871]

Great video. Thanks for making!

[@nickrossi9587]

I thought you said it was an easy repair. Ironically though, you'd be hard-pressed to find a single repair service that would even attempt this. They would instead come to the house and say you need a new washer, then charge you $75. Rube Goldberg could make a simpler more durable machine, but you've done a wonderful service for the do-it-your-selfer, but keep in mind that this is an intimidating amount of disassembly for most people.

[@makenzijismeis2782]

lol

[@MrLetsride2384]

2 man job for sure. Just ask sears.

[@yrtuag]

Great pliers! Where can I get a pair??? Thanks!

[@jesusgarciadominguez5090]

Gracias amigo 😊 me ayudo muncho tu vídeo 👍

[@alvarolbricenojr4545]

The mode shifter and shaft assembly I ordered WHX38X10017 I longer the the original one now my platform doesn’t lower all the way to align with the four bolts? Can you help with this please?

[@elgafe1236]

I have the same washer that you are fixing an it wash very slow what could be the problem please help thank you

[@condor5635]

I successfully replaced just the bearing in my GE clutch assembly. Buy the 6006RS which cost $15 for 4 of them. Have to press the bearing out of the frame but overall not too hard if you have some DIY skills. A very small retainer clip holds the white plastic disc in place. Once that is removed the 2 gear cylinders and spring can be removed and the bearing can be exposed. Great opportunity to get new tub seal and all the parts related to the shaft. Just got finished with mine and it is so quiet!! You can barely hear it. So happy I did this and saved over $150 bucks. I just posted a video on how to do it

[@claudewhitman2813]

Finished the job from a to z. Reassembled plugged it in, no lights nothing! Any suggestions? What did I miss?

[@jbull454]

Very informative and well done! Thank you.

[@galyien]

the hardest part about this was breaking that 1 11/16 nut loose since I didn't have that size I used my vise grip channel locks. it was tough trying to hold it and beat my channel locks with a sledge as that nut was stuck good. I called every where for a 1 11/16 deep socket and could not find one... oh well.

[@herrcobblermachen]

WX5X1325, WX05X1325. But dont bother, it wont help much. Cut it off and buy a new nut.

[@markhaeg007]

the 1 11/16 tool can be laser cut if you have access to one.

[@johnlingafelter524]

I'm new to the appliance repair industry and I have contracts with Samsung and Whirlpool right now. GE seems to be a fairly straight forward system, and relatively easy to work on. Does this mode shifter cause the unit to shake a lot when it is not working. Maybe a little description in the front of the videos on why you would want to replace it. I send my do it your selfers to your KZbin page. The bearings seem to be a big problem on these, and there are a lot of them out there in my area. With labor being about 2-3 hours for this, and the repair costs for service calls in this area, its almost cheaper to buy a new machine.

[@charlesfiore7835]

If you think GE is straight forward, you've never worked on a Whirlpool made Direct drive! 4 bolts and the transmission is out and you don't need to take the cabinet off!! Not that's even hard for that either.

[@drywallsurgeon]

Great video, very well done! Thank you!

[@SleepyJoe408]

Is the shifter shaft the same as a transmission?

[@luisevazquez8537]

excellent thank you very much

[@appliancepartspros]

Glad the video helped you get the washer fixed!

[@rotcod2886]

My GE washer model GTWN4250M1WS makes lots of noise spinning. From what I can tell, replacing the tub bearing likely is not even the issue, it's more likely the WH38X10017 mode shifter bearing. I don't think I can handle just replacing the bearing in the mode shifter assembly. But I can get the whole unit and shaft for $75 bucks. If I replace the tub seal, the washer, the mode shifter/shaft assembly, do I even need to bother with the tub bearing? Oh and should I invest in the spanner wrench?

[@condor5635]

Invest in spanner wrench. I tried pipe wrench etc and believe me it is tough. Not worth it. I re😊laced all parts on that shaft to ensure all sealing parts are new. It’s only 20-30 bucks more and it will ensure years of good service

[@markhaeg007]

Could you please explain the purpose of why there are 3 bolts on one side of the mode shifter and platform and one on the other? I suspect that it is to ensure the mode-shifter seats entirely onto the nylon washer and tub spin bearing. What would happen if you mounted the one bolt before the 3 bolts? Great video. Thanks for your time and the close-up clear easy to see video.

[@keithschramek5418]

Used this video to do this repair. Got it installed and back together. The LED lights were blinking correctly showing normal oepration. Reset the Code by lifteing the Washer Lid. Ran a small load (4 items) and it went well until it was time to do the final spin out and the same thing that happened with the old Mode Shifter. It would not spin out in the final spin. What else could be wrong?

[@chloeboulay]

Lid switch bad?

[@condor5635]

Was it bad lid switch?

[@BugbearMadness]

What causes loud roaring spin cycle? I've seen conflicting info between tub bearing and mode shifter.

[@appliancepartspros]

We'd be happy to help you figure that out, but we'll need some additional information about the model and the problem. You can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We will need your model number to give you accurate advice, which you can locate using this tool on our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx

[@condor5635]

More than likely it is the bearing in the clutch mode shifter assembly. main seal leaks and water goes right on the bearing. It gets loud as heck. Just spent hours replacing the bearing in mine which cost several bucks. Fairly involved but very satisfying saving $150 at least and replacing all the seals and things on the main shaft. Need some experience and some tools for bearing removal but pretty easy for experienced DIY! Mine is super quiet again. So happy

[@purduephotog]

Is there a spec on how many ohms the coil and thermal switch should be?

[@seanh3563]

Absolutely not

[@chrisprice8009]

You can slide the inner and outer tub out through the front without taking the console loose. You have to disconnect the tub to pump hose, pressure switch hose and suspension rods loose prior to doing so.

[@carlosr6310]

thanks!

[@luckymike3271]

The trick to removing the large nut is to clean out the calcium buildup within the nut. There are four flat surfaces on the threaded shaft. I used a small drill bit to clean out the calcium and the spanner wrench worked great to remove it.

[@appliancepartspros]

Thanks for that tip!

[@johnp5978]

If you were to do this repair in my home how long would you say this takes? Do you recommend replacing that spin bearing thing every time or not?

[@appliancepartspros]

+John P Lots of variable so it is hard to say maybe from the planet aligning 45 minutes to the Murphy lives in the washer couple of hours. As far as the bearing goes you would have to take the age/use of the washer into account.

[@appliancepartspros]

Thanks for the tips!

[@johnstreckfuss3068]

Raising a glass to you!!

[@condor5635]

Does anyone understand the purpose of the overflow tube @ 12:10 ? Essentially it overflows onto the floor just like it would if the tub overflowed in the first place. Not really sure what the point is.

[@appliancepartspros]

The point of the overflow tube is that in an event that your washer over fills, the overflow tube helps to catch the water and directs it away from any electric or mechanical parts.

[@condor5635]

@@appliancepartspros - ahh I get it now although I think you are majorly in a pickle either way. $15000 in flood damage but my washer motor made it through! Thanks for clarifying.

[@508_Phax]

No matter what this is a MONSTER of a repair...and def isn't recommended for the average d.i.y.selfer imo anyway...ohh they will def get it apart...but come time to put it all back together....not happening...not saying it's impossible just take alot of notes or mental notes while removing everything...!!! Otherwise really good video bud thank you !!

[@appliancepartspros]

You're welcome!

[@audelioespinoza1934]

Thx. for this video, very helpfull

[@chloeboulay]

That torque wrench is worth more than the washer

[@condor5635]

Yeah, use of a torque wrench is kind of silly. I realize it has torque specs, but snugging it down firmly, and even using some blue Loctite would be totally adequate.

[@stephanieterry3173]

Follow the instructions. Now the wash is grinding. Please help.

[@appliancepartspros]

We'd be happy to help you figure that out, but we'll need some additional information about the model and the problem. You can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We will need the model number for the appliance, not just the part, so that we can look up diagrams and information about your specific unit to give you accurate advice.You can look here on our website to help you find the model number: www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx

[@khokonpiru4552]

How repair this motor, please give me massage,

[@appliancepartspros]

We don't offer massages. :)

[@ScantPear]

You don’t need to loosen those bolts that far just loosen them to where they are loose

[@bobz807]

When hooking up the 2 pin connector from the shifter to the motor he puts the harness clip in the wrong hole behind the ground screw. It actually goes in the hole closer to the motor. You will find this out later when hooking up the other leads and there is already a clip where he tells you to put one behind the ground screw. I guess it was too expensive to edit the video. Still a very informative video nevertheless.

[@Backlashed]

the tub seal needs silicone not soap. Had a leak,. did some research and it is a common leak, probably why the mode shifter went out in the first place. New seal won't seal against the tub without some sealant.

[@ta61cnc]

Wouldn’t some silicon grease be better than detergent since the seal had grease from the manufacturer to start with.

[@johnsapplianceservice5170]

New washer.

[@antonio28360]

saludos amigos dame información sobre el capacitor que usa esa lavadora que se lo canbie y le puse uno normal de 4 pines y la lavadora no me funciona igual será que tengo que compral el mismo capacitor

[@randyrodz5037]

Ese equipo utiliza un running capacitor en otros equipos utilizan un starting capacitor..so en tu caso si tiene que ser el mismo

[@antonio28360]

y como se comprueba ese capacitor ygual ke todos con capacimetro porke yo lo medi con el capacimetro un fluke y no me daba lectura

[@DwitronU2]

Antonio, dónde lleva el capacitor esa lavadora, perdón pero no se lo encuentro. Mi lavadora carga agua pero no arranca el motor ni centrífuga, tendrás consejos?. El led de flashes parpadea 4 veces y con ello se lee que es el mide shifter coil (Bovina de modos), será? Gracias por cualquier ayuda!!!

[@antonio28360]

si tienes ke comprar el mismo ke es el de dos pines todas las lavadoras el capacitor son de dos pines

[@antonio28360]

@@DwitronU2 rebisa el swicher de la puerta ke debe de sr eso por el cual no te arranca

[@miguelramos3998]

I need chance oíl seal. Hoy is it

[@appliancepartspros]

What is the model number of the unit?

[@DwitronU2]

Question: Where does the capacitor take that washing machine, sorry but I can't find it. My washing machine loads water but the engine or centrifuge does not start, will you have advice? The flash led flashes 4 times and with this it is read that it is the mode shifter coil (Bovine mode), will it be? Thanks for any help! Pregunta: Dónde lleva el capacitor esa lavadora, perdón pero no se lo encuentro. Mi lavadora carga agua pero no arranca el motor ni centrífuga, tendrás consejos?. El led de flashes parpadea 4 veces y con ello se lee que es el mode shifter coil (Bovina de modos), será? Gracias por cualquier ayuda!!!

[@pattyspanker8955]

Creo que quieres preguntar: Where is the capacitor in the washing machine?

[@MrLetsride2384]

Try this baked.

[@rosesheppard5449]

Finished the job. Everything went great, but now the washing machine is walking across the room.

[@miguelrocks1000]

Coming from a used appliance store owner. Throw them in the trash. The most reliable/easy to repair machines: Old school whirlpool made washers Lg front loader washer 2010 or newer That's pretty much it.

[@ikemen1]

REPAIR was successful.... The major difficulty I had was getting the Hub Nut off, Yes I had the spanner wrench and turning the correct way.... Many people have this problem..... Easy solution for me was just drill many holes in the nut, ( being careful not to drill to far)..... The nut is soft metal and very easy to drill and then I use a cold chisel to take the nut off in pieces.. Not a hard task.. the rest is just nuts and bolts, just follow Appliancepro Video... ~"ATTENTION"~ I made 1 mistake, here it is so you will avoid doing the same....... Putting things back together I did use a new Hub Seal, but when I was done I looked underneath while it was filling up and agitating, I seen water dripping down the shaft... :( I took the inner tub back out to check and see what was going on and remove the tub seal..........I looked at the top of the hub bearing (I called it a sleeve) something didn't look right so I took my finger and picked at it... There was two small circular very thin springs that came out of the old falling apart Hub Seal...... They were around the shaft between the hub bearing (sleeve) and shaft hard to see.. Remove.,,,,Reassemble it works great now... Hope this Helps someone......

[@bigd835]

Let me give everyone a heads up. In Jan 2024 i replaced the tub, seal, and transmission with all new GE parts. No aftermarket stuff. The seal does not fit into the plastic tub. it is such a tight fit that when you force it in, it squeezes itself out. it will not seat flat in the plastic tub and stay there. it is not at all like the video. i had a lot of trouble with the seal, and thought i finally got it to seat. I put the washer together, and upon the first run had a big leak with water running down the transmission shaft and ruining my brand new transmission bearings. GE is not selling parts that fit together and work. I pulled out a micrometer and measured. the seal diameter was more than 1mm larger than the seal cavity in the plastic tub. it just wont fit. in desperation, i took sandpaper and worked it around the seal, taking off about 3/4 of one milimeter. then i used permatex and coated the edge of the seal , and pushed it into place. it is now sitting flat. it took me one hour of sanding to get that .75 mm off the round seal using a fine sand paper. I will now try the machine again after the permatex sets up for 48 hours. I will most likely be back to a noisy trasmission now that water has entered the bearing, and it may need replaced after being used 1 time. this washer in service for years and GE should have addressed this issue of the too big seal for the hole long ago. its shameful they stick the appliance owner with the high cost of replacement parts that do not even work together. very unhappy with GE. what i would give to have a GE engineer here, and hand him the seal and ask him to seat it. then ask him why he is specing parts that dont work. i measured 3 seals, they are all the same diamater, too big.

[@appliancepartspros]

Sorry to hear about this. Are you sure you ordered the correct seal for your model number? Seals can be different depending on your model number.

[@bigd835]

@@appliancepartspros yes . its the correct seal on the breakdown diagram i got both part numbers ( seal and tub) from the same diagram. not your fault. I dont understand why GE does this. there have been at least one other person on here that did a video about the seal popping out and then trying to glue it in. and several comments from people with leaks after new seals.

[@jimm6386]

I notice the lack of “humph” in the thickness of the metal parts - bad design to have to go underneath the platform to tighten one of the 4 screw - a sleeve bearing and not a stainless steel ball bearing - small under powered motor. I wouldn’t buy one of these if you paid me.

[@MC-mh2ju]

WTF! Who designed this crap.

[@randyrodz5037]

All this technicians uses new appliances to do this type of videos easy!!! What about a rusty nut hub ahh???

[@appliancepartspros]

Actually we perform all of our repair videos on used appliances!

[@randyrodz5037]

AppliancePartsPros with no rust

[@appliancepartspros]

Yup. You can definitely tell at 7:14 that this isn't a new washer.

[@508_Phax]

Cold side on the water valve still had some buildup in it

[@AMERICANPRIDE1100]

This unit isn’t worth the effort or the price of that part and if you are doing this you better change the bearing

[@aaronsmith5433]

They reduced the quality again and again to support the corporate jet fund. Think of Steve Martin "The Jerk" begging for a hand out because the leather seat in his jet are starting to Crack. " I'm embarrassed to take my friends to the Superbowl!" , he cried. Navin is somewhat taken aback, " Have you tried Leathersoap?" "That doesn't work, I've tried it, I need new seats", he unashamedly cries back. Steve Martin knows. He saw the inside of the beast. It's a shame, the design is not bad, but you can clearly see sub par materials. Too bad Larry Finn won't admit it, " Yeah, it's basically a piece of crap!" "Moe, Larry , the 🧀

[@calvinacb1807]

First of the hub nut was too clean and brand new. There's no way you got a hub nut off that easily after its been in a washer for years. At least let us know the consumer buying your products that it will not come off that easy and we'll be there trying to knock it off for hours...smh

[@condor5635]

Definitely buy a spanner wrench imho

[@sergiomeza7046]

The grace and peace be with you from the lord your God our father and his son Jesus, thank you, but how many of you know about the good news repent and believe in the gospel because the kingdom of heaven is at hand and crack your word the Bible and continue blessing you! Luke 6:20-28-35-37-38-39-40-42-43-45-46-47-48 10:5-8-16-19-21-23-24-25-26-27-29-33-37

[@kandykorn6136]

I am giving this video a down vote and rating it as completely incomplete. This video is only good if you are working on a brand new washer of this style and brand. The process is spot on and is exactly the correct procedure. The problem arises in real world conditions. This is a horribly designed washing machine and G.E. knows this. I only first discovered this after having to beat the spanner wrench to death using a 3lb. hammer. The degree of corrosion in these washers is the worst I have ever seen. I laughed really hard after removing the tub seal...again...your video did not at all reflect real world conditions. I still see washers that are more than 20 years, even 30 years old, that far outperform this piece of crap model. I've serviced thousands of appliances and after this experience I can clearly see that this model is nothing more than a money making machine for G.E. and service techs. I disliked this washer from day one...in fact, I took the model without an agitator back the day after I bought it because it was even worse than this model. I'll never purchase another G.E. washer.

[@appliancepartspros]

We do apologize that you had a bad experience, but if we can help you with anything please let us know.

[@kandykorn6136]

@@appliancepartspros You're tub bearing video is equally as bad. Let me tell you something partner, I'm a commercial HVAC tech with 27 years experience. You are not talking to a noobie here. Let me ask you something, what do you do for an extremely corroded tub bearing? Watching your video has done absolutely nothing to help. I've been using your method, which you used on a very barely used machine and I'm an hour and fifteen minutes into it and the bearing hasn't budged. The piece of crap tub will likely get broken by the time I make any progress. My "bad time" as you put it, is just a passive-aggressive way of not being at all helpful. I'm calling you out and I don't think you're helping anyone that has a real field issue. You're only helping people that have a newer machine.