See more from the Carmina visit: How they make their luxury Chelseas kzbin.info/www/bejne/gKTRonhojZd1q9U
@alanc64683 жыл бұрын
It's actually more prone to tearing due to low tensile strength but it's the most durable after it's been lasted. Per Nick Horween on Ashland's podcast
@Stridewise3 жыл бұрын
I heard a bootmaker say it's like lasting rice paper, haha - veg tan leather in general is harder to last because it's less stretchy
@drzaius8443 жыл бұрын
Awesome to see the factory 0:40 I love my Carminas! I have 5 pairs, one of them in shell, a PTB and it’s one of my favs. Shell is incredible for its shine, it’s deep complex color, and the lack of creasing, and low low maintenance. Thanks! (That long wing in emerald shell 1:46 😍)
@MrZanzibar1233 жыл бұрын
Super impressed by all the awesome videos!
@ttop643 жыл бұрын
Hi Nick. Of all the shoes and boots on display in this video my favorite far and away were the whole cut looking chukka boots.Very sleek looking. It kind of looked like the way you were holding and inspecting them you were impressed too. : )
@mikhailsordinarylife3 жыл бұрын
WOW! so glad to see Ioana featured here and more of the Carmina factory!
@ginzaboy84603 жыл бұрын
Appreciated the interview, just have one thing to say on the bit around waterproofing. Waterproofing is useful in a work boot context. In a dress shoe context (which is often how cordovan is found), it's not really relevant to ask about the waterproofing nature of the shoe. Sure, a Goodyear welt can, in theory, be water resistant, but wearing a Goodyear welted derby calf leather shoe in the rain makes no sense. Even when cordovan is found in boots, it's actually one of the least waterproof leathers because of how it shows water spots when it gets wet. There's a tipping point where luxury comes at the expense of function, and I feel like cordovan is a bit beyond that point, there's nothing really inherent about cordovan that makes it better than any bovine leather, it's just that people like the way it looks and patinas and that's it.
@frankb56933 жыл бұрын
Thanks so much for this one Nick. All,of the shoes are gorgeous and I have always coveted those Chelsea boots of yours!
@aphantasiagreyman84453 жыл бұрын
In my experience the durability of shell cordovan is a bit overstated. Shell will scuff, scratch and split if treated poorly. Just look at used shell shoes on eBay. It is true that you can recover from some rather bad looking abrasions with shell but it is not bulletproof. The Achilles heel with a lot of shell is water. Uncoated shell that is exposed to a significant amount of water, say in a storm, will develop water spots that are very hard to remove. The material's pores will swell creating raised spots that can take days to weeks to return to normal if at all. I generally don't get my cordovan shoes wet for that reason. I see this a lot with AE shoes as they don't coat their shell. Alden doesn't seem to have this issue at least when new. I think this is due to the coating Alden applies to their shell.
@bassheadlife4923 жыл бұрын
I have may own special process of treating shell
@Molach1013 жыл бұрын
It seems like the best approach to shell cordovan is to treat them like normal dress shoes with common sense - i.e. don't wear them in a storm, try not to scuff them etc
@davidpielykh39963 жыл бұрын
IMO Aldens coated shell looks fake. Another thing is that shell indeed splits realtively easy with eyelets and broguing areas affected more frequently.
@drzaius8443 жыл бұрын
What do you mean by coat the shell? I have Alden and AE Cordovan, they are very similar, bipoth shine up nicely with some pure polish conditioner, both get dull if not brushed. The cracked shell I see on eBay is on very old pairs. I’ve never had a problem keeping shell from cracking. And scuffs are removed with about 10 seconds of brushing, unlike calf or veg tanned. Shell is really, really resilient. It just takes a small amount of attention.
@davidpielykh39963 жыл бұрын
@Dr Zaius the coated shell is a thing, there are pelnty of posts on reddit
@tommysmith70313 жыл бұрын
Great video Nick! You kicked butt.
@karem96053 жыл бұрын
Great to see it . I like Carmina although it is a bit outside my price range at the moment, I just got some cordwainers for my husband and they are really well made.
@darrenhall74543 жыл бұрын
Another great factory video! 😀 Very interesting. Thank you. I wasn’t expecting her English accent… I assumed she would’ve had a Spanish accent. 🏴 🇪🇸
@DavidGriffis Жыл бұрын
Cute shoes and presenters. Very informative. I finally learned the basics of Cordovan leather and Carmina.
@Stridewise Жыл бұрын
Delighted you found this David
@albertoclonado3 жыл бұрын
Wow those shoes look amazing, especially the green brogues. I’ll check them out.
@albertmanuel50283 жыл бұрын
My first shell boots arrived last week. Sagara Bootmakers built me a pair or Cordmaster monkey boots in black shell. I can’t stop staring at them 😍
@davidedmonds64273 жыл бұрын
I just LOVE CARMINA SHOEMAKER!!!
@jochem19863 жыл бұрын
I was there in October. I was looking for the store, and accidentally ended up in a whole different town, Inca! Heading to Palma soon :D
@benjaminkenobi213 жыл бұрын
Those green longwings..... wow
@Freco19673 жыл бұрын
Well done, Nick. Thank you! I picked up a pair of Alden cordovan shoes recently and I'm still trying to sort out the best products used to care for them. There's a hornet's nest of disagreement on which products are best. Some say only Saphir Mirror Gloss because of solvents in Saphir High Gloss, that these solvents break down the cordovan. Others say that's hooey, and you there are a zillion pics online of cordovan covered with High Gloss that look amazing. Any thoughts?
@Cemmos3 жыл бұрын
Venetian Leather Balm or Venetian Shoe Cream for conditioning when needed, otherwise water + horsehair brush for cleaning/shine. Since Alden uses Horween shell cordovan, VSC is what they recommend for their leathers. They even use it during production, before they glaze the leather. The horsehair brush will add a really nice shine if that's what you're after. But if you want a higher shine than that, Saphir's Cordovan wax polish or Alden's Fine Paste Wax (both made specifically for shell cordovan) are great options. Honestly, the two you mention would work fine, they won't damage the leather. I don't think High Gloss has any solvents, it's purely made up of natural waxes according to Saphir. The thing about waxing/polishing being bad for leather is when people never strip the wax off the shoes; they build it up over years and either don't condition the leather, or the wax has been built up so much that conditioners can't get past the wax. That's when cracking in shell tends to happen, because it dries from the inside out. As long as you're stripping off the polishes every now and then, and conditioning the leather before reapplying waxes, you'll be good to go.
@UnknownUser-rb9pd3 жыл бұрын
Think of all the old pairs of shell Florsheim Imperials available on places like ebay that are 30 or 40 years old. How many people do you think used Saphir or VSC in the 1980s to maintain them ? Think how much abuse your shoes and boots get when walking in snow and rain ? Solvents used in cheap products are not going to destroy your cordovan (or leather) shoes and they are much tougher than people give them credit for. It may be slightly better to use the very expensive creams on your shoes but they will be fine with whatever is available . BTW, I've yet to see any scientific evidence that "natural" solvents are better for leather than synthetic solvents and completely synthetic products like vaseline seem to work on skin quite well.
@bryankc96442 жыл бұрын
I would only use high end known products like saphir specifically meant for cordovan. I would stay away from solvents, cordovan is not porous like leather so I dont understand why solvents would even be beneficial
@dongwang84143 жыл бұрын
great interview!
@frankmai18243 жыл бұрын
Since you’re in Spain, see if you can do a video with Andres Sendra. They are a big family with boots making history and also make shoes with unique patinas
@MojoHand692 жыл бұрын
Great video. Very informative. I love my SC shoes and boots, they're like tanks.
@Stridewise2 жыл бұрын
What brand ya got, Mr White?
@MojoHand692 жыл бұрын
@@Stridewise Allen Edmonds. One pair of SC Strands and Daltons. I find they are much lower maintenance than calf skin.
@andneomatmj233 жыл бұрын
Great video man! What is price of Shell Cordowan per m2 ?
@DancingSpacePotato3 жыл бұрын
While shell is fun I think the real star is horsebutt with shell intact. Quite the amazing material for shoemaking, that
@sisleymichael3 жыл бұрын
I think it is beautiful leather. It does not have a place in my closet. The only time I wear a suit is weddings and funerals. I have some calf skin ropers I keep shined well and those are my dress shoes. The rest of the time, I am in lace up 8" work boots. I do wear New Balance shoes for exercise walking. Those shoes are pretty. For business guys, hell yes.
@johndixon12303 жыл бұрын
There are shell boots for non-business, wolverine made shell boots in the early 1900s
@istoikiskeptik3 жыл бұрын
Boils down to one's liking and budget really.
@albundy20322 жыл бұрын
What's the name of the colour of the wholecuts? is it a specific burgundy ?
@Stridewise2 жыл бұрын
Color 8
@adelanemeti36783 жыл бұрын
Care este pretul aproximativ al unei perechi de pantof și unde se găsesc de cumpărat ( magazin ) in România ? multumesc.
@BC083 жыл бұрын
You should hit up Phil over at Ashland Leather again for a comprehensive overview of Shell Cordovan.
@coryjones95733 жыл бұрын
Great video. Do you think that leather will still show patina eventually?
@samwroblewski7483 жыл бұрын
Check out the dude he brought on who had all the Grant Stone and Truman boots. He had videos about getting them to patina
@dylanhall63553 жыл бұрын
Shell takes a long time to patina, but once it does, it’s amazing. Insane depth of color, often referred to as “glow”
@everetmason77932 жыл бұрын
The particular boot she chose as the more casual, popular style at 6:10 is not showing on their website at all.
@mrandmrscorona86583 жыл бұрын
Very good video!
@F0XD1E3 жыл бұрын
Will most likely forever be out of my price range but still, worth the watch. Maybe someday.
@_bats_3 жыл бұрын
You can get some pretty affordable shell from companies like Meermin. Affordable in comparison with higher end makers, anyway.
@drzaius8443 жыл бұрын
I used to think that way, but the reality is you will make more money as you get older.
@F0XD1E3 жыл бұрын
@@drzaius844 The older I get the more expenses I have and more money I put into savings. Ultimately, splurging on cordovan shoes is just not a priority. I COULD buy multiple pairs right now, if I wanted to be what would be irresponsible in my mind.
@davidpielykh39963 жыл бұрын
Ebay
@karem96053 жыл бұрын
Wait a sec, I was just checking the prices and they are accessible.
@ZaneWangTube3 жыл бұрын
Wait are JR soles still being made?
@davidpielykh39963 жыл бұрын
I thought he gonna ask the rep about factory closing
@dylanhall63553 жыл бұрын
It’s been bought out, and it sounds like they’re gonna keep the same manufacturing techniques and quality. Hopefully at least
@naxalhim Жыл бұрын
People are really avoiding to say that no wonder how durable cordovan is, it practically looks very much plasticy or like patent leather like. Fact !
@jribe3 жыл бұрын
Other than USA Horween, are there other Shell Cordovan makers? Also, what happens to the horses? They’re not considered food in the USA? Or am I incorrect here?
@chadgifford4993 жыл бұрын
Yes, Japan also supplies shell cordovan. Meermin, Carmina’s little sister uses Japanese shell cordovan.
@Cuthloch3 жыл бұрын
Horween imports its horse hides/carcasses from Quebec.
@AsAnAtheistFilms3 жыл бұрын
Theres also argentinian and italian shell. Rocado in italy, i do not know what argentinas name is.
@aktanakhmetov2 жыл бұрын
Ioana Dinu is so cute that all of a sudden I want to interview her too
@erichanson56283 жыл бұрын
Great content!
@ElNietoPR3 жыл бұрын
Can you make a video about shinki hikaku?
@Stridewise3 жыл бұрын
Oh boy, I'd like to. Once Japan/China are open I'm going to head over and make mucho videos, hopefully I could get into Shinki!
@loupblanc0073 жыл бұрын
Great video thanks for it
@iron_recluse3 жыл бұрын
I want some now….
@davidpielykh39963 жыл бұрын
SHELL IS A LEATHER, specifically it's a reversed side of the horse butt leather
@AsAnAtheistFilms3 жыл бұрын
Its actually between two layers of epidermis. Technically speaking it would be similar but not the same as top grain leather with full grain removed and the genuine leather underneath also removed. Except its different as it only exists in the rear of the horse. Not found elsewhere on the horse.
@davidpielykh39963 жыл бұрын
@AsAnAtheistFilms sorry, that doesn't make sense. You can clearly see hair follicles on the reverse side of the shell
@AsAnAtheistFilms3 жыл бұрын
@@davidpielykh3996 The "butt", after tanning, is passed through a splitting-machine which removes the grain, or hair side, revealing what is termed the "shell".
@davidpielykh39963 жыл бұрын
@AsAnAtheistFilms I created a google photos link with a couple of shell photos where you can see the follicles. It won't go through here on youtube for some reason
@AsAnAtheistFilms3 жыл бұрын
@@davidpielykh3996 sounds like a defect in the splitting of the grain to me. Never seen follicle like pertusions on shell and ive had 5 pairs, 8 horween shells, 3 rocado, and 2 shinki (worst out of the three). In fact on the shink I found remnants of the grain on the shell. Also thickness variety and poorer finishing of the skins.
@jonstern75113 жыл бұрын
Rona dangerous when you are inspecting the leathers but disappears when you are filming 🤔🤔
@AsAnAtheistFilms3 жыл бұрын
They may have been tested pre recording. Its just 2 people plus camera man in the shot. Different from traveling through the factory.
@jlozano20143 жыл бұрын
Easy, because they can be!
@AMogus-jr6qk3 жыл бұрын
It is objectively a harder leather to make
@TheRacerRich3 жыл бұрын
Given our dear hosts attire I assume he grew up a bit casual? Having been raised in the traditional formal way, I never would have thought of cordovan as a formal material, and I wonder if our upbringings are the cause of our differing cordovan prejudice.
@AMogus-jr6qk3 жыл бұрын
Cordovan, if shiny, Is a formal material
@TheRacerRich3 жыл бұрын
@@AMogus-jr6qk That's like saying wingtips are formal shoes.
@AMogus-jr6qk3 жыл бұрын
@@TheRacerRich name a formal leather then
@conorproffitt2 жыл бұрын
indeed
@fb14732 жыл бұрын
She keeps referring to it as leather...but it's not and he attempts to establish this point early on...this interview is a little backwards as it relates to interviewee and interviewer
@egorboroda10993 жыл бұрын
А есть у них рабочии ботинки?
@drzaius8443 жыл бұрын
Check out their website. The answer is, kind of, yes and no. You could work in their “work boot” but you probably wouldn’t want to damage them.
@davidpielykh39963 жыл бұрын
Рабочие ботинки из кордована?
@egorboroda10993 жыл бұрын
@@davidpielykh3996 , из обычной кожи. Я имел ввиду модельный ряд производителя
@sunnylee74692 жыл бұрын
How many days you guys think she have worn anything cordovan?
@TeslaRules185610 ай бұрын
If I am going to spend a bit more than fine calfskin I am going to get Chromexcel. Cordovan is too much.
@Stridewise10 ай бұрын
Fair. Also I think chromexcel is usually a little cheaper than calfskin, if you're getting NICE calfskin
@zefdin1012 жыл бұрын
Ioana is as cute as a button! ☺️
@samueldelgado14583 жыл бұрын
It comes the base of a horses tail... that is the taint.
@Walnuts882 ай бұрын
Ioana is pronounced ee-wan-nah
@Stridewise2 ай бұрын
i pronounced her name the way she said it! she's romanian, the pronunciation probably varies
@אתהברטון Жыл бұрын
It’s also really hot and will dry out your feet because the leather doesn’t aerate like calf skin does.
@Stridewise Жыл бұрын
oh good tip
@dulcinemckinnon57092 жыл бұрын
?Ř????ϻ ?
@rayogrady78983 жыл бұрын
First
@had12233 жыл бұрын
Oh yeah? Then name every boot..
@rayogrady78983 жыл бұрын
@@had1223 iron ranger, thursday captain, wolverine 1000 mile
@MrKinghuman2 жыл бұрын
Rear side of the horse? So it's butt, we're paying premium prices for some ass. Hmm. Guess I can call my girlfriend a horses ass. Lol.