Are You Flashing V3's? Now Focus On This | Technique for V4-V5 Progression

[@the.Aruarian]

"Just put your feet up!" is the short person's "just reach for it".

[@SendEdition]

Yes, this is so true, haha. I have quite a few shorter climbing friends and even after months of us climbing together each week, I still get that recommendation, haha! That being said, high feet is essential sometimes!

[@sandman5679]

This is so relatable- I am a new climber and I also happen to be a child so most routes that are mid difficulty I literally just can’t

[@ckokomo808]

That’s my wife! She’s 5’0” and always runs into issues with large reaches. She’s a fighter and learning to position her body, using smearing to her advantage and able to use many of the foot holds to bump! She’s so awesome 🥰

[@kaibrouchiha2490]

Jump for it actually

[@kaibrouchiha2490]

@@sandman5679 it’s just u gotta jump for things most people can reach.. it’s hard but if you overcome fear and just send it you’ll be good trust me

[@rockboyman4210]

the gap from v3 to v4 is gnarly man this is for sure helping maybe another month of practice and ill be on v4

[@SendEdition]

Keep at it! It is a gnarly gap, for sure, but you got this :)

[@eduardom.8766]

My gym recently set a bunch of new problems and I’ve found that these new ones (due to me being 160 cm) are way harder because so many require dynamic moves and dynos to reach the holds, so this was way helpful (hoping I can get some V-3’s before the problems are changed up 🤞🏽).

[@Kefford666]

Also don’t be afraid to try harder grades. Even if you just do the first one or two moves it’s still fun to try. I used to think I had to climb all of the red routes (V3-V5) before I could even look at the purples (V5-V7). It turned out that there was quite a bit of overlap and randomness so I was able to tick off 80% of the reds and managed to do a handful of purples too! No harm in trying ☺️

[@Rebecca-dw4uk]

Been at v3 for a while and just hit my first 2 v4s earlier this month, so this was the perfect video to see! Really helpful tips, thanks for sharing :)

[@chaosengine4597]

good effort. keep crushing it!

[@patrickd1842]

I watched your video yesterday and all three techniques were things I had not seen in other videos in this difficulty range. Today I tried again a V3 slab route that I have been having trouble with. It turns out I needed to use a high leg which I could not quite seem to reach. To make matters even more difficult, my other foot was on a small chip which I slipped from days ago... But after several tries really pushing my flexibility, I managed to get my foot just high enough to grab enough of the hold to inch myself up a little bit. Sent it! Thank you for the tips!

[@FlarkeFiasco]

The lockoff "training" idea I've added to my training list, that was really cool. Also, the difference between "passive" flexibility and "active" flexibility should be underscored-- if someone can move your feet pretty high, but you cannot move them that high on your own, you'll want to train active flexibility. I think a lot of people can get their feet to positions passively, but actively, they can't get their leg nearly to the same level. Strengthening those hip flexors really can make the difference.

[@SendEdition]

I’m glad you’re adding lock offs to your training :) and great comment about active vs. passive flexibility - yes! Thanks for sharing

[@chaosengine4597]

"active flexibility" equals mobility, and you are totally right. Further, the hip position (twisted in vs. open/frog hips) + where your body is relative to the foot hold is key to progression here.

[@DebraWilderMeditation]

Exactly. I do a lock off drill for my hips attempting fast movement. I can sleep in pigeon pose but on the wall that movement is slow and not enough power.

[@gilleswalther5964]

Thanks for the tips, new technics and positions are always welcome. More of this please!

[@sabaca304]

I just found your channel and I really like this video! It's a relaxed, detailed and to the point explanation of bouldering technique while also keeping in mind what requirements those techniques have, how to fullfill these requirements and what level of climbers this applies to. This is the best source of bouldering information I could find so far!

[@malinpersson6316]

Thank you for your tips! I'm exactly at this level, I'm comfortable with V3 and have been trying to learn to climb V4 for a few months now. I feel like I have struggled with hundreds of different V4s but still only managed to climb 3 or 4 of them that happened to suit me. My goal is to reach a level where I can climb most V4s. I will definitely try learning your techniques! :)

[@SendEdition]

Thanks for your comment Malin :) and good luck with your training - I know getting comfortable with V4s was a hard one for me so I totally understand how you feel! Keep at it though :)

[@malinpersson6316]

@@SendEdition Thank you! Btw, I love that you take the time to write a nice reply to everyone who comments, it makes me want to watch your videos more!

[@lolzguyl]

This was a lovely breakdown that can apply to any level of climbing, which is always an added bonus! Also, kudos for having a clear, concise, and easy to understand explanation of body tension! It being a phrase (not unlike your "core") I hear tossed around a lot without a shared definition. Something that helped me not only at the v4-v5 range but also pushingfrom v5 toward v6/v7 was actually thinking about where I needed to retain push/pull (body tension), how I could do so with minimal exertion, and where I could release or diminish effort into maintaining said tension.

[@boltup5566]

Someone please rephrase the rooting concept. I didn't understand this part at all. Move sideways and keep your hips close to the wall?

[@strongbongus]

im hitting v4s pretty regularly but i hit a wall at v5 so this is perfect for me! im loving these drills and techniques and thank you for including that high-step attempt footage! how i feel every time😂

[@chaosengine4597]

Hi! Hitting a plateau (or wall, in the climbers' case) is pretty common and happens frequently in your progression. The thing to do now is to take a mental step back, find out what exactly the problem is and work on that problem with some dedication. Most helpful would be to get someone proficient in at least a grade higher to watch you and tell you what they find to be the issue (as we don't usually see ourselfs from the outside;)). Keep crushing it!

[@irenecheng1761]

Great video! I've noticed tonight when conquering a V4, my hips were too tight for that high foot. Yoga postures for lower body are great ways to open up those hips and hamstrings!

[@kris955i2]

It might not be completely transferable for lock off training, but take a look at “frenchies”. It’s a pull up variation with holds at the top, mid and bottom of the ROM. So, pull up above the bar, hold for time. Down, back up, down to half way, hold for time. Down, back up, down to an engaged hang at the bottom, hold for time. Hopefully it’s helpful!

[@harrypotterpuppylove]

High feet is one of my favorite techniques to use! As a past dancer (but still shorter) my flexibility and "high feet" saves me time and time again

[@richardbradley1532]

On the high foot one, you can sometimes use your hand to pull your foot onto the hold.

[@danielkwan1999]

i find myself being able to get into middle splits on the wall for a break/ cheat the route

[@chaosengine4597]

@@danielkwan1999 cheating is part of climbing. Don't worry about that ;)

[@1UaXaU1]

This is amazing, will try for sure!

[@Cblizy]

I haven’t flashed any v3s I can do them after 3 or 4 try’s, but I’ve only been climbing 6 or 7 times. I think I’m really forcing bad habits though so this is a huge help.

[@Tokkowa]

Thanks so much for all your content - super useful and well made !!

[@jasonshih3633]

4th time climbing and I barely managed to complete a v4. V1 and V2 were super easy. V3 was just right, but V4 was a whole new level.

[@TPBurket]

I finally made the transition from V3 to V4 but I don't get as many routes in...at V4 I think I need to work on reading the wall better and spending less time deciding my move on the wall. I actually flashed my first V4 the other day but it was a roof route and I hung for a long time and basically willed myself to finish it and top out but my arms were shot afterwards. May need to do more lock off training to help with the endurance while I just get more experience in reading the route.

[@kaleemasilon8919]

Dude yes, I didn't even know that I pulled off today at the climbgin was "lock offs" but I have been practicing my strength building outside of the gym and when I finally got back into the gym I noticed that this is exactly what I was doing and omg my forearms and shoulders were so pumped and I could tell i was so so much stronger in my routes today without even trying as hard as I usually would! I finally set routes that I had been trying to do for weeks prior.

[@SendEdition]

Congrats - that is amazing!

[@TheSubieFan]

Been climbing at a V3 level for a while now but just flashed V5 flashed 10+ on lead indoors and flashed 9+ outdoors on for me a scary lead. The progress might feel like it's never happening but I promise it will happen.

[@abs1090]

Such good content !

[@konstantinospantazis2624]

You rock! Keep it up!

[@armandocabrera7560]

Great tips :) as a shorter person, high feet is usually one of the harder moves to get down. Stretching and mobility training help tremendously though!

[@SendEdition]

I’m on that journey with you! Maybe I need to do a 30-day challenge or something like that to get my flexibility and mobility going though, haha the struggle is real!

[@chaosengine4597]

@@SendEdition Lattice Training as some excellent guides (in a YT video) for your mobility journey.

[@mbenson501]

these are so helpful! Subscribed!

[@paulvandenberg4402]

Love this! It is practical and a good build up to the next level! Thank you so much!

[@SendEdition]

I’m glad you liked it and got value from it! Is there anything that you learned recently that has helped you level up?

[@azamsharp]

When you complete a V2 or V3 does that mean you have to be able to reproduce your success each time. I was able to complete a hard V2 once after 20+ tries but could not reproduce it again.

[@anazugravu436]

Thank you. Verry good material! 🤗🤗🤗

[@slimslither]

I was really expecting heel hooks and toe hooks in this video. Guess it really just depends on what route setters at your local gym decide to set though. You can make pretty easy toe hooks, and pretty hard ladder climbing if the holds are bad enough. But at my gym you really need to practice heel & toe hooks to for quite a few of the the v4-v5

[@SendEdition]

I tend to use heel hooks a lot so I totally see where you’re coming from and they would have been the perfect addition to this video! Next time i make a video like this, I will for sure do that :) I do have a video for those techniques on my channel that you should totally check out. Thanks for the great comment!

[@MisterJingo93]

This will sound kinda arrogant maybe, but I find myself doing most of this by some sort of instinct? It definitly helps to retry problems as long as they are up and challenging you. Maybe redo some, in order to repeat what you learned from it. Been climbing for maybe 7 or 8 months now, and V4 is within my reach mostly, sometimes pushing V5 (barely, and only if the setting is to my strenghts). Maybe the point about the hip and flexiblity came naturally to me, because I suffered from bad knee pains afer running until I got an analysis done, which showed that my hips were the problem, and my knees are fine.

[@leocarter7035]

What are the best exercises to increase strength for going from v3-v4

[@Genital.Wartzenegger]

Great explaining skills.

[@fufumccuddlypoops5502]

I have decent flexibility and can get my feet up but then my little baby legs can’t push out of that more “extreme” range of movement. Guess single leg squat strength may be good for me to work on

[@SendEdition]

I’m jealous of your flexibility! Single leg squats practically mimick that movement so I’d totally recommend practicing that. In addition, sometimes just getting your hips over your foot helps you get the leverage you need to push up so hopefully that helps in the mean time while your training those pistol squats :D

[@the.Aruarian]

It's also good to work on training the smaller muscles and tendons so you can 'bounce out of the hole' as it's called in weightlifting. Just preloading with tendon with a bit of energy goes a long way

[@DragonSlayerBrick]

I had to learn these techniques for V3’s in my gym, V4’s require crazy pinches and slopers but maybe that’s Australia only

[@kevenbouchard7973]

I've been climbing for a month now. I got a few v4s but it is clear I dont know what I am doing. I enjoy the way those technique are presented with a way to train them. Lets go v5s!

[@Eowyn126]

My hips are so terrible I can’t even sit crosslegged!! I’m definitely hitting that high foot plateau. I really need to work on that flexibility lol but I know it’ll be a long long road. Very helpful video!!

[@SendEdition]

Oof, yea - my hips are… in a sad place right now so I totally understand. I’m glad the video was helpful though - thanks for taking the time to comment!

[@mark69064]

I'm very afraid to high feet hook on foot hold, always scared when drop, I'll land with one foot that may break my leg.

[@monica2757]

Great video! haha! I TOTALLY relate to the ...erm...flexibility issues. Yoga has helped me a bit but I have a long way to go. My hamstrings are my arch nemesis.

[@SendEdition]

Archnemesis is a great way to put it, haha. I haven't thought of it that way before, but it is exactly accurate.

[@BatLB]

"raise your feet" was shouted at me for months. When i stopped hearing it, I finshed V4s. Its all a process.

[@itzu208]

when you say route do you mean like a top rope / lead route or a boulder problem? just never heard anyone call boulder problems routes

[@essie23la]

is tight hamstrings really the problem for high feet? I cannot touch my toes, never could, but my first ever v4 had a start that was easiest if you could place a high foot and then rock over it to reach the second start hold before standing up- something I could actually do! I like high feet, I'm just not very strong or skilled in most other things lmao especially dynos and lockoffs. Will definitely try the lockoff drill!

[@SendEdition]

for me, the hamstrings is an extension of my tight hips. Since this video, I've done a lot of work on hip mobility (more than just flexibility) and that has helped a lot with high feet. I'm glad your high foot and rockover worked so well though and good luck with the lockoff drill :)

[@DebraWilderMeditation]

Pinching and dynos are where I struggle for V4 at my gym. My hands are strong but the technique or belief is not there. The heel hook is another. I've done another gym where V4s were easy so it depends the setter style.

[@Babjengi]

Given that the lock off drill is basically climbing like a total newbie, are we doing a disservice teaching good technique to newbies early instead of letting them develop the strength and THEN mastering technique?

[@SendEdition]

mmm, good question. For me, technique helped me advance my climbing faster than strength building so...

[@michaelcallahan5763]

The yoga with Adrienne plug 🤠

[@Wheatman02496]

Im a v7 climber soon to be v8 and I am still falling on some v3s

[@michaellim4125]

good tips!!!

[@ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog]

Great video

[@SendEdition]

Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for your comment!

[@PolishSlayer893]

I have a question. I'm a beginner(climbing around 3-4 months) and I'm also pretty heavy (245lbs) so def progressing but slower than others. Currently I climb V2 and slowly itching my way to some V3s. My biggest issue is I get scared when I'm really high up on a sketchy part and it's been stopping me from sending certain routes. It's gotten better and I used to climb 70% of the way on most climbs then just climb down. Now I finish basically all of them except this one wall is taller than others and some climbs on it are just scary. How do I get over this fear or do I just keep trying and it'll go away?

[@SendEdition]

Great question, thanks for sharing! The fear of falling is a huge limiting factor for many climbers (myself included - though it’s mostly just an issue when I’m Lead climbing now). There are actually drills that are specific for mental training - overcoming fear. I really enjoyed Vertical Mind by Dr. Don McGrath. There is actually a video interview with him about mental training and fear of falling and fear of failure that you might get value from. I hope this helps!!

[@PolishSlayer893]

@@SendEdition Thank you! I'll check it out and try it!! I only Boulder but still get scared haha

[@awkwardturtle77]

I've flashed v3s. I probably can do v4s and some easy V5s but I'm 45 and scared to go too high in case I fall and break a knee or hip 😢

[@SendEdition]

Falling is a higher risk the higher you climb so that fear is totally understandable. I think the older you are, the more of a concern it is too considering recovery takes longer. However, it may be worth practicing falling from a short distance from the ground to get better at protecting your knees and hips. Not only will this help build confidence with climbing higher, it'll help you be safer while you're bouldering. Hope this helps!

[@jacopo3236]

to go to v8-v9?

[@kaibrouchiha2490]

Some v3 s I find way harder than like a v5… I just have some climbs I’m better at than others 💀

[@diplomeule]

Shoutout to @Yogawithadriene!

[@mster50]

Great video. This is my gym too!

[@SendEdition]

Woot woot, go Momentum, lol. Thanks for your comment and I'm glad you enjoyed the video!

[@wakeupclumsyold]

"Just go up" -Sam

[@billking8843]

Awesome video but for Australian viewers it was impossible to watch the segment on rooting without getting the giggles.

[@ethirtydavid]

any advice for exercises for our younger child ?

[@SendEdition]

Great question, David! I’ve only observed youth camps and training so I have an outside perspective on this. However, from what I’ve noticed, youth do similar drills and exercises as adults - that is except hangboarding. If your child likes training and wants to train, then I’d recommend doing on-the-wall exercises like the Lock-Off drill in this video. What does your child tend to struggle with while climbing?

[@chaosengine4597]

define "younger". The overall idea for children up to 4, 5 years seems to be "no exercise" as it can really mess with their development. In that range kids do actively explore their possibilities on their own if you let them (in a somewhat controlled environment, so not below the adult boulderers).

[@ethirtydavid]

@@chaosengine4597 um. ok.. I'm not talking about power lifting. or no glove MMA/ etc. I was asking about some climbing exercises for young kids. Like match right foot with right hand up a section. or thumb and front two fingers only training. maybe we're on a different page.. anyways thanks for reply

[@chaosengine4597]

@@ethirtydavid well, there you could go for some nice games. Like only taking handholds where the foot has been before. That‘s fun and helps develop (or keep) flexibility and out-of-the-box movement patterns.

[@readyaimsflyer4226]

Here's me still struggling with my V1s🙈

[@SendEdition]

I struggled with V0s and V1s when I first started so I totally understand how you feel. Keep at it! And maybe check out my other videos for more beginner drills and recommendations ;D

[@chaosengine4597]

don't worry. Everybody has to start down on the mat in the end.

[@ethanoramas1609]

That’s momentum gym isn’t it

[@SendEdition]

Sure is :)

[@tristanchoy3555]

this looks more like V3's to me!

[@SendEdition]

Actually, most of the drills in this video are done on V3s so that is a good eye - when it comes to doing drills and developing skills, the majority of coaches will recommend that you practice on routes a couple of grades below the grade you’re working on. That way you can really focus on the movement and the technique instead of getting distracted by the harder routes.

[@silentdiscretion2657]

Climbing at any level isn't hard. Just go up! Lol this is super helpful. I'm currently on v4s in my gym, and the gap between v4s and v5s doesn't seem too bad, but it's sizeable for sure. One good method of training I've started doing the past 2 months is spraywall/moonboard/kilterboard. I usually don't have to wait for other people, and I can create routes that are just the right difficulty to improve. It's helped a lot. There's also doing top rope as well, if you mainly boulder. Building more endurance is vital at this point. I really prefer bouldering to top rope, but it's helped me out significantly since I started. It's helped closed the gap between grades, and I highly recommend it!

[@SendEdition]

Endurance is something I'm actively working on and I totally agree rope climbing is great for building that. Thanks for sharing your experience and taking the time to comment! What is your favorite thing to do on the spray wall?

[@silentdiscretion2657]

@@SendEdition I love problems that require a lot of power. Ones where almost every move is max effort. So I tend to create problems that cater to that. I can't hangboard yet, but I can use small edges on the spraywall to train my fingers a bit more softly. Otherwise I just use it to practice certain hold types that I'm bad at

[@elipeake7631]

Very helpful advice but not a fan of the gifs

[@SendEdition]

Thanks for the feedback! I haven’t used gifs in a video before so I decided to try something new but I don’t know if it works if I don’t get comments like this

[@elipeake7631]

@@SendEdition Totally! :) Your vids are so helpful and you explain technique very well. It’s been great to follow you

[@furyzlm7853]

not me watching while struggling on v2s 😭

[@SendEdition]

Anything helps, right :D

[@provuksmc6619]

All those lightweight ppl talking about 5 minutes breaks... im 100 kg and everything harder than a 6b requires me to do a 10 minute break at least. Lol

[@SendEdition]

Sounds like your on the right track for learning what works best for you! That’s great - thanks for sharing your experience :)

[@lokalepolitiegent1479]

Doesn’t matter, The fact you can climb 6b at 100kg is astonishing. Climbing is a weight dependant sport so it will become harder The heavier you get.

[@provuksmc6619]

@@lokalepolitiegent1479 it still gives me the feeling that i cannot compete with them and i am a very competitive person. In the end im sad 😑 But thank you tho!

[@lokalepolitiegent1479]

@@provuksmc6619 yes I understand I’m also an insanely competitive person. I don’t know your body composition (if you are 100kg with 90% muscles or 100kg with excessive fat) but I gained a lot of fat after lockdown and The gyms closing (bw: 94kg) and now I weigh 78kg and climbed my first V6-V7 after only 7 months of climbing. Cardio, weighted pull ups and hangboarding really did The trick for me you got this! If you want to lose weight it’s all about diet, climbing and running are more then enough to lose fat and gain muscles! You’ll be able to compete with them in No time.

[@provuksmc6619]

@@lokalepolitiegent1479 Thank you very much, that's too kind of you. But i don't think that will cut it for me. Im 1,95 m. I think thats six foot four inches. Im allready doing hangbording, crimped pullups, bar muscle ups and halfway correct front levers. I do not lack strength. For me its the body weight and i don't think i can lose so much without weakening my overall strength. But again, thank you for your kind words.

[@gamotousername]

I thought lock off was the definition of static climbing, not dynamic. Lock off is an isometric exercise that involves static contraction of a muscle with no movement. Are you sure you wanted to talk about lock- offs?

[@OkThisllbeMyName]

“Just grow taller”

[@SendEdition]

I don’t remember saying that in this video so I’m guessing you aren’t quoting me… is growing taller what you recommend? 😂

[@OkThisllbeMyName]

@@SendEdition someone recommended that to me when I was stuck at that crux so I guess that's what im going to focus in my training /s