Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra Upper & Lower Ball Joint Replacement How -To

This video shows you how to replace the upper and lower ball joints on the Chevy Silverado this procedure will also cover the GMC Sierra, Yukon, Suburban, Tahoe, Escalade, and Avalanche. Parts were purchased from Amazon and I have provided some links below. Sorry I didn't have enough time to video the idler arm, tie-rods, and pitman arm.
Moog Lower Ball Joint: amzn.to/3PhvJd
Moog Upper Ball Joint: amzn.to/3PlvKwL
Ball Joint Press: amzn.to/3yXaF6v

[@geoh6974]

never done this before gonna change them on my 03 gmc sierra aswell as the tie rods. after watching the vid have more confidence in doing it.

[@jakeeverett9932]

Thank you so much for taking the time to post this and walk us through, I started the project blind and it would have taken me 100x as long if I didn’t stop and watch your video. I appreciate it brother

[@squeekfrogman8787]

At least you're taking the initiative to do it yourself. There is no learning experience like hands on. 👍

[@Matt-wb2we]

Perfect video man. You say and do what’s needed without all of the bullshit. Appreciate the video, sir. 👌🏼

[@kyleenglish915]

First of all I have to compliment you on your taste in music playing in the background! What's better than listening to "TooL" while ur working on ur truck?!! Your video saved my ass on my 05 sierra and entertained me at the same time!

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

Thanks brother I appreciate the feedback glad I could help

[@brettremian8387]

One of the best videos I've seen for this type of work

[@sauldean6430]

This is better than buying a new entire set of upper and lower control arm

[@MagaRickn]

Thank you for your video! I'm going to be the "helper" on my 2004 Chevy 2500HD tonight. My mechanic knows what he's doing, now so do I. :) And thank you for pointing out the alignment indentations on the new ball joint!

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

Glad I could help

[@anon8766]

My dude. I couldn’t of done this without your video. Thank you very much. My buddy and I did all joints and outer tie rods in about 5 hours. Mine was a 99 Silverado 1500 so a few things were different but nearly identical.

[@tylerparker3024]

5 hours!? Thats way longer than it shouldve taken lol

[@juancamberosg.593]

@@tylerparker3024 for a beginner theres a lot of lost time trying to figure things out and doing different things.

[@1_fishin_magician153]

not one F bomb dropped ...thumbs up !!

[@jasonshelton7393]

Fantastic video man! Just curb checked my Silverado and there is no way I’m paying a grand for a couple hours of work!

[@coloradokid5329]

I got a quote of 1400 so I did my own, it took 6 hours or so but I did everything else to include bearings so I did not have to worry about it again for awhile

[@LKN4WAR]

Easiest caliper bolts ever. 221ftlbs w loctite of some sort Factory took a 36” beaker bar and 21mm socket to remove them on mine.

[@Big0veralls]

That sounds a little excessive. The 1500 only calls for 136 pounds I believe and I thought that was too much. I’d blow an o-ring trying to bust that loose.

[@Ez.pattty08]

Same story here

[@bparks_5095]

You shouldnt need to unbolt the calipers and the bracket. Just unbolt the bracket and it comes off all in one piece.

[@TFitz]

That was my thought as well.

[@mr.hoonigan4313]

They get paid by the hour.

[@jordanhudson5075]

I was thinking the same shit

[@mike4796]

Great video Straight forward, well done keep posting

[@sirsweetness8332]

Did this yesterday on 2008 Duramax. 1 control arm, 1 hub assembly and new pads and rotors both sides. 6 hours with multiple trips to store. Caliper slides were caked up. Would not allow rotor to sit flat. Had to clean out with brake cleaner and relube

[@MarioLopez-tt1ey]

No bs right to the point great video🙏🏽

[@jeffgreen2448]

Thanks so much for sharing! This is very informative and how most of us gonna do it ! Thanks

[@johnmenard2302]

Or an impact wrench.

[@mestizounsolo5545]

Good job dude my truck it’s little newer but it help me thanks

[@ninjagodzilla6402]

Uggghhh.im watching this because im bout to tackle it well.here we go! Good job.it sucks but its got to be done!

[@highlanderneal6509]

Thanks for the video, it was a big help.

[@nathanpavko2190]

I hear tool in the back round good man 🤘🏻

[@Jpeace530]

Thanks man I’m going to try doing this on mine

[@troykenney176]

How are you guys using just a wrench. Im using a wrench,breaker bar and my weight and still cant get in pressed in

[@OldePup]

Thank you for editing out the sound.

[@jimnugent4966]

The next time remove the nuts on the ball joints completely while the the shaft is in the taper then put them back on a couple of threads so no need to use allen wrench. Clean the holes in the control arms of rust make new ones go in easier. I understood the markings on the ball joints face inward so when you put grease in ball joints it doesnt squeeze out on the brake pads.

[@jakek7112]

Impressive electric impact

[@JonnyP2208]

Very helpful video thanks man i have a project on my hands coming soon

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

Thanks man I appreciate it. I also have a couple newer videos then this that are a little more detailed on the lower ball joint and replacing the upper control arm with a new ball joint so if your interested check those out.

[@magdalenoybarra2793]

Thanks for the awsm vid amigo. i just got into a wreck and need to replace all that on my right side of my 03 1500hd . greetings from Texas.

[@NadineDelilah.]

Great I always watch your vid

[@YoungGearHeads]

Hey bro nice hon on the video, strait to the point. I’m going to look for the tie rod video now

[@FreddyV74]

Thank you for such a good video. Fixing to have to do this and have been running from it. Bam, I just subscribed. I appreciate all the tips 😁

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

Glad to hear it helped you out. Thanks for subscribing.

[@937wigger]

Thanks for the video!

[@mannycardi4818]

Good video on these i rather do this than change the whole control arm upper and lower

[@theyluvvvv_scars4988]

Do more posting I like your videos

[@DavidALovingMPF102]

This video will help me figure it all out so I can do mine in about 2 weeks. Thanks!

[@terryspinks5841]

Thanks. And I'll try not to break shit AGAIN.

[@DavidALovingMPF102]

Maybe in the Fall..it's 96 outside..

[@specar]

Good Video!

[@joshuahaviland8025]

Is that lower ball joint all the way up in there or is there a small gap? Mine wants to press up almost all the way and then canters idk why

[@adamkorekach9936]

Excellent!

[@TomMack530]

Question for you when driving does it sound like the shock absorber is bad ???? And if I replace one side should I do the other side or not necessary

[@tannertummons6005]

Love the music choice 🤘

[@johnhalchishick7094]

Nice work

[@jamiewoods9222]

Does someone the lower or upper ball joints have bolts that hold the in

[@jordanroessler4279]

How to fix alignment?

[@danielzimnoch4365]

Save a lot of money doing it yourself. Good video.

[@hebperez]

Good vídeo now i can do myself

[@Mr.DontKnow]

I got the next 30 days off and I'm going to need alot of working to do on my tahoe. Thank you so much for the video I'm halfway done doing this to my 04 LT. I got the money to pay a mechanic but hey what the heck, I got the time why not break my head a little! Update day 2 I didn't know it was going to be this difficult but I am sure learning alot from my mistakes. My truck, i wasn't able to remove the bottom joint by itself I had to replace the whole bottom control arm.

[@problemsolving7190]

If just doing LBJ's on these trucks has anyone found it necessary to do an alignment? I could see it if you changed out the UCA with new bushings etc...but just the LBJ I would think not. My drivers boot is gone so it won't hold grease anymore. Figured I do just both LBJ's, truck is an 07 2wd and has 90k on it, all highway, stock rims and 265 tires. Truck has never had an alignment but holds th road perfectly and no abnormal tire wear.

[@wolfenalpha5330]

Appreciate you.

[@calvinesslinger6065]

I have a 2012 GMC four-wheel-drive. Left front camber -2.1 Ran out of adjustment. I need a solution. Thank you

[@MJBclassics]

Hand tools and a cordless impact? I just did my Michigan 2003 last night. Every bolt had to be heated and most needed the next size smaller socket hammered on to what was left of the bolt heads.

[@mikey130]

What size is the cordless impact?

[@brandonevans4142]

Great video but I think it's time to invest in some ratcheting wrenches

[@B_HarTz]

Brandon Evans haha good thing I got a complete husky tool kit from my bro lol he knows I’ve been using wrenches for everything and I finally got me some ratchets lol

[@haithamali74]

Hi, please advise, I have a question, is all Yukon Denali has a 35 mm nut in rotary centre ? Some mechs told just in case 4 X 4 only has a 35 mm nut.!

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

Yes it should be only the 4x4 models that have the 35mm axle but because on the 2x4 models there will be no CV half shaft going through the hub

[@1628sherwin]

I just ordered that side dirt cheap,New control arms dirt cheap with ball joints hope they hold truck was rotting

[@lukewarmwater6412]

you: just give that lower ball joint a tap.... me: Ive been hammering on this for an hour, where is the fucking torch??!!!

[@uhdahnbracquemont6746]

Where does the snap ring go on the upper ball joint? Is it To hold the boot in place?

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

It goes on the upper ball joint underneath the upper control arm. It's just for extra protection to make sure the ball joint doesn't vibrate or pop out. The factory ball joints did not come with a snap ring.

[@Big0veralls]

Somebody tell me how you torque that top ball joint nut with a deep socket and that drive shaft in the way. Just did my son’s truck and there was no way that torque wrench was getting in there. I just put an 18mm wrench on it and tightened it with another combo wrench as a cheater.

[@johntube2525]

Great informative video. I am in the process of putting a new CV axle on a 2000 surburban 1500 for my college going son and while I had everything off and truck jacked up. I cleaned the grease zerks for the outer tie rod , upper and lower ball joints and then greased and found all three rubber boots have tears and grease coming out. They were really dirty with grease everywhere so I suspected they might be torn and they are. I think it might be easier to do this with my CV axle off. Doesn't seem to have all the play that your joints have, but I guess that will happen next unless I replace them. I have no ball joint tools like you do, so I might turn this over to a mechanic. Is there a way to just replace the boots and then grease thru the zerks with new boots or is it best to just replace the whole thing with moog parts? Thanks for any info you can provide.

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

johntube2525 honestly I would just replace the ball joints since your already going to be in there plus with those boots having holes in them it's likely moisture and dirt are already in there. If you follow my video it's not really that hard. As for the tools you can go to any of the local parts store and rent the u-joint press and the CV axle nut set for free and the rest are pretty much just basic hand tools. As far as the ball joints there are other brands besides Moog that are decent. If you decide to purchase some check out www.rockauto.com huge selection and they are almost 50% cheaper than your local parts store.

[@johntube2525]

Thanks for answering right away. I have an old friend that is a retired mechanic and he said, if the grease is just oozing out of a small tear, you can go a long ways on those joints, if you make sure to grease every oil change. Or if you want to buy even more time grease every 1500 miles. He said if the boot is completely torn all the way around then better replace the joints. Since mine or my sons is oozing thru small tears, I finished the CV axles and I am going to tell my son to come to my house every 1500 miles or every oil change and jack up with my floor jack and use my jack stands and change the oil and grease and keep your fingers crossed. Great video and I may be looking for it again someday. Thanks for the tip on renting tools. He also said the lower ball joint is not a job for amateurs, since I have torsion bars. They need to be released and then put the tension back on once the new joint has been put on. I haven't seen that on any video so far? Thanks for your help.

[@backwatermcfly7930]

Andrew Stewart what about the tie rod video?

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

Marty Abernathy I ran out of time because I had to get the truck back to my buddy so I replaced them but wasn't a to record it.

[@sirsweetness8332]

Do you have a video of taking lower control arm off? Dealing with torsion arms...

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

No sorry I don't at this time

[@sirsweetness8332]

ASTEW'S GARAGE I have already replaced, both hubs, shields, upper control arms, lower ball joints, Bilstein shocks, tires and hub seals, steering damper. Idler arm and pitman arm are 8 months old. I still have a knocking sound so I am going to start with sway bar bushings and end links. Driver side bushing looks like it is hitting frame on flat portion. They look like toast. $10 moogs on order. 1 5/16 bar Duramax. I already have new end links. If this doesn’t fix it I am going after the lower arm bushings and torsion brackets on frame. Thanks for the reply

[@clwilli]

great video..curious how many miles did the vehicle have on it...

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

It had about 140k

[@robertv8851]

Is that tortion bar suspentioun,do you have to unload the tortioun bar.

[@sirsweetness8332]

Not for what he did. To change entire lower control arm you do.

[@ArmenArmenjs]

@@sirsweetness8332 Question, I got 2004 1500 2wd avalanche with torsion bar and I need to change upper CA which comes complete with BJ, and change the lower BJ. Question is, at the point that your moved the jack from lower CA to make room while pushing the old lower BJ out with press, the reason behind which you originally placed a jack was that it was necessary relive the tension to have the jacked the lower CA in order to remove Upper and and lower BJ right? thanks one of the best video's.

[@leonardofranceschini423]

good video hey you baby help you because i ear all conversation is amazing god bless your family

[@mentholized17]

Safe to say you didn't make a follow up video for the tie rods. Would be good to know the torque on the tie rods, caliper and caliper bracket too.

[@justinrussell7605]

Will this process work on a 2002 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT 4x4 With a lift kit?

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

Yes it should be the same

[@justinrussell7605]

@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE thank you so much sir

[@adamkorekach9936]

Kinda scary to realize, but as the upper ball joint has a locking ring to positively hold it fast to the UCA, the lower ball joint has nothing but the weight of the truck and the force of the torsion bar holding it in the LCA!

[@cdb122980]

Not at first I end up having to just beat the ball joint out itself and not even using the Press

[@gregoneill1495]

How often have you greased the balljoints?

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

Every other oil change is a good rule of thumb.

[@brentmccreedy322]

Any tips for getting the steering knuckle back on the CV? Mine doesn't want to go back on.

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

Did you try sticking it through with a slight angle on it with the upper ball joint still disconnected from the knuckle?

[@brentmccreedy322]

@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE what do you mean by sticking it through with a slight angle? I put the knuckle on the lower stud and started the castle nut to keep it on. Then tried to work the knuckle onto the CV shaft.

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

@@brentmccreedy322 Try sliding it on the cv axle first just slightly and then stick the lower ball joint through followed by the upper ball joint

[@brentmccreedy322]

@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE sorry, I should have explained better. That's what I did but it doesn't want to get onto the splines.

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

@@brentmccreedy322 only thing I can think of is maybe spray a little penetrating oil on the splines or if the splines are off just a hair try spinning the wheel bearing in the knuckle slightly or try turning the front driveshaft a hair

[@kingranchkennels]

How long did these parts hold up ? Do you know?

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

It was my buddies truck and he sold the truck about two years ago but had zero issues with the parts I put on.

[@nobodyspecial8127]

You can use a ball joint press to press it out

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

Yeah that's what I used a ball joint press/U joint press

[@zacht1687]

Since the upper ball joint was pressed from the bottom up, the snap ring should actually go on top to keep it from sliding back down over time. The bottom ball joint should've had a snap ring as well.

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

The new upper ball joint is driven from the top down. It has a wider top to prevent it from falling through the a arm. The snap ring is on the bottom to prevent it from working it's way up.

[@stevenkay4742]

Did you loosen the torsion keys before pressing the lower ball joint?

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

Steven Kay no you don't have to do anything with the torsion keys

[@stevenkay4742]

Andrew Stewart thanks!

[@mariop3519]

okay, so before you haul off and go to the local parts store and decide you want to do this.There's a ton of stuff left off here but the most important from my experience and I just did this yesterday, is the amount of force you are going to have to exert to get that ball joint off and on with that press. I"m a big guy and even having a great breaker bar and footing it was like I was going to shut a roid just trying to get this thing on, it is a PITA. Now when you are pressing it in the press is going to lean and make it much harder to go in fact like this video shows, the press is going to lean to the side just a tad, enough to make it dam near impossible. The other thing and none of these videos show it, is taking off the boot then making sure you put the boot metal ring back on while not cutting the snot out of it. Once you start trying to do this, if your's is pre-loaded your going to be almost SOL because that grease is going to rubberized the boot end making it to loose to really roll around the wring grove. Now if you you're lucky the metal wring is not distorted from removing the boot and you can get it to work. If you don't put on that metal retainer, when you go to load your joint with grease it's going to either shot out the top and or shoot down the boot. But FME, this was the whole part of the exercise and a real PITA. People really need to know this before they attempt it.

[@Dennis-sq2nm]

That ain't no lie. I'm 4 hrs in and still cannot get the god damn lower ball joint to break loose from the knuckle. All this to save $260 bucks.

[@pedropockets4344]

What's the name of that tool your using to push out the ball joints

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

Ball joint/U joint press you can rent them at any local parts store

[@pedropockets4344]

@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE Many thanks your ways maynnn you proly save everyone time and money. 👍

[@vl8443]

how do you like Moog parts? are they last so far on your truck?

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

Not really sure I did this on my buddy's truck and he sold it about a year ago.

[@ryanmitton]

what was that at 9:23

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

I believe that was one of my kids grunting 🤣

[@allischalmerswd]

I can tell you are not working on a truck from Minnesota. The bolts and nuts would have never come off that easy with all the salt on our roads!

[@napieraustin]

0:26 probably needs pitman arms too. Doubt all that play from ball joint

[@bigredjohnson6921]

Great video! Only thing I do different is I disconnect the speed sensor line back above the frame. I've seen too many sensors fail after removing and replacing it in the hub, also prevents you from getting contaminants in the hole where the sensor goes in.

[@jakegilly6438]

Did u rent the ball joint press? If so how much

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

I have my own press but yes you can rent/loaner one from the auto parts stores. They are about $75 or $100 to rent. But you get all your money back when you return it.. Or harbor freight sells one for about $60.

[@jakegilly6438]

ASTEW'S GARAGE you just put the jack on the lower control arm right

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

@@jakegilly6438 yep

[@claytonosborne313]

Why did you separate the caliper bracket from the caliper? Lol

[@silvergrandam2002]

that jack stank scary kinda close to the turning of the fram lol happy nothing happend

[@tudocervera3764]

i agree... i always use a secondary precation. just in case.

[@angelrodriguez7817]

What happen with the snap ring😨

[@fre32ze]

Good eye

[@joeh4253]

i’m looking for it but don’t see what you guys are referring to. what about the snap ring?

[@morepowerelectric2081]

Don’t need to remove abs sensor or tie rod or wheel bearing! There is enough play in everything to make this an easy job.

[@kr33pn214]

Wheel bearing yes if its 4x4

[@morepowerelectric2081]

Grim Kreepa mine was a 4x4, just popped everything ball joints first then tie rod, pulled axel nut and just set the knuckle out of the way. Also helps put antiseeze on the spline, will make it easier to replace next time!

[@kr33pn214]

@@morepowerelectric2081 I just did mine yesterday, 2005 GMC Sierra Denali, the front CV Axle did not allow me to take the lower ball joint at all. If I didn't remove the wheel bearing/ knuckle I cant remove the CV axle, I had to, for me there was no way could have taken out the lower ball joint off without removing the CV axle.

[@morepowerelectric2081]

Grim Kreepa understand, but I separated upper first and then popped lower off, then removed knuckle, but I had to loosen the cv shaft to give me more wiggle room, when I do the other side I’ll do a video, but mine is 2500hd 2005.

[@kr33pn214]

@@morepowerelectric2081 I need visuals to understand lol, if u r able to make a video when you do yours post the link here please, I like learning

[@MaddHannah]

Hahah. I was rockin 10,000 days while doin it too..only got as far as top bj n brakes before having to check on bottom

[@thekingsilverado8419]

This has gotta be one of those gag set up videos or that thing was apart many times before. I just showed the guys this video out in my shop and vince almost swallowed his cigarette and screamed Bullshit... We do alotta this and they never come apart this easy

[@brsavage4629]

If you work on so many of these why are you watching the video moron😂 go back to using "snap on tools and acts of god"

[@stacyswiss307]

Good video but doesn’t really encapsulate the amount of work especially for midwestern vehicles, wait until your rotor takes 2 hours to get off because of salt/ corrosion. Or you end up destroying it in the process and have to replace that

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

Yeah this truck spent its whole life in Colorado and southern Wyoming so luckily we don’t have the rust like the Midwest and east coast has.

[@chadhoffman1102]

Same process for a 1500?

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

Chad Hoffman yeah should be the same

[@jblan131]

@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE Nope

[@leisercruz28]

Hey man is that Moog brand legit??

[@MaddHannah]

Leiser Cruz yes...and no...just as well getting ACDelco though...ball joints come and go..but the ball joint business hasn't evolved in years...no sense in paying an arm n a leg for something that isn't any different than the cheaper option..

[@leisercruz28]

@@MaddHannah that's true

[@ziggyman77]

This dude beating the knuckle off of that lower ball joint like thor. I'm sitting over here smashing it with a sledge, separating with a pickle fork, and that thing won't move.

[@alltaske1]

Speed sensor?? Um no

[@Griede26]

Taping the socket wall with a hammer isn't helping me. Other than that, great vid

[@fedoisbrown803]

I can't do it at all I don't have the tools for that

[@napieraustin]

Elder Fedois Brown You can rent any tool from Autozone for free. You do have to put the money down for the tool but they give a full refund when you return tool.

[@cdb122980]

I can not get this lower ball joint to move at all

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

cbanksmowing are you trying to get the old one out? Did you soak it in some penetrating oil?

[@sirsweetness8332]

cbanksmowing 5 lb hammer while making sure lower control arm is secure will break it loose. Finish with press

[@sirsweetness8332]

cbanksmowing I also drilled 4 or 5 relief holes in old ball joint as close to rim of control arm and then when I hit old joint it came loose.

[@craiglester4047]

U should of changed the upper control arm with the ball joint. Its typical to be bad. So do it at one time. Also take your wedding ring off while working on car.

[@bartprice3439]

You can loosen castle nuts on damaged ball joints a turn or 2 (put cotter pin back) then drive around the block, and they'll hammer themselves loose. Turning the steering with the steering wheel to one side or the other helps you gain access, makes the job easier. That, and a wire brush & some PB Blaster. Also, 35mm = 1 3/8". A 3/4" will do for 21mm. No need to buy tools if you already have them. If you don't have standard wrenches & sockets, your dad or grandad likely has. Or that old coot neighbor. Not that he'll loan them to you. And with chassis work, always grab a bigger hammer than you think you'll need. And, this is important: Get a tetanus booster the same say you decide to do this yourself. Sepsis is no joke.

[@coodapop1535]

Easier now just buy the upper control arm /ball joint combo , those ball joint presses are a bitch to use , pain in the ass

[@jason6500]

TOOL

[@thekingsilverado8419]

Now I don't know about anyone else I'm just a guy with like 11 of these trucks and I have never ever whacked the spindle and popped a ball joint out... Not once... here in the North East it takes torches grinders and all kinds of shit to get em loose... Including acts of god and snapon tools. I hear they R related...

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

No bull here this truck has been in Colorado most of its life so it doesn't see the humidity and road salt like you do in the north east things come apart a lot easier here

[@thekingsilverado8419]

@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE U can say that again. I never have shit come apart without calling on god to help me thru it. I do some insurance jobs and some times they like to pull that flat rate bullshit stories on me or other garages estimates bullshit. Well this is the Pocono's and I think the DOT here gets kick backs from Mortons or some shit like that. They load the fucking roads with the bullshit here and the vehicles show it....

[@R_Arizona]

The lower ball joint is a bitch!!

[@chrisandsoforth319]

BULL***T!!! That 8-bolt hub cover came off WAY too easy. He must've sped up the film by about 4 hours and 6 beers and one dog kick.

[@ragingz3fbonr788]

Title your videos properly this is a 3/4 ton truck it's different on the 1/4 tons

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

How about you properly read the title before you comment. Nowhere in my title does it say what size truck this is for. By the way there is no such thing as a 1/4 ton Silverado/Sierra.