At what Pressure does a 3D Printed rim EXPLODE? We put it to the TEST!

[@jarrenvanman2570]

I love the friendly neighbor just being ok with random explosions.

[@unogazzy84]

I love that the subtitles said "Do you have THAT junk in your eye" like there is another kind of junk to get in your eye after a possessed rim with tire went through the roof. That LLt Store comment made me laugh way too hard.

[@wherekengo]

I really appreciate how serious you voice is on every video but the shenanigans you and your buddies go through and the monotone jokes you say are priceless.

[@_Moto]

here's a tip for the brass inserts ripping out of the rim: put the brass inserts on the other side of the inner part and use longer bolts so they go through the whole rim. that way the pulling force of the screws gets distributed in all the material, not just the part where the insert is melted in. that should also help your inner flange to not break since it's also held together by the screws, not only the layer adhesion of the print.

[@Wingnut353]

Also... it was really the inner tube that failed first so there is that, your mod would probably be a minimum requirement to handle side loads when actually driving though...

[@kihestad]

Agree, these inserts are supposed to be on the outer side.

[@marsgizmo]

Excellent progress! 👏😎 looking forward to see it on the car, in action.

[@JKTCGMV13]

I've never been to this channel before but the net over the wheel in the intro made me respect it. Love to see people thinking of safety

[@kippie80]

Gr8 stuff! Real engineering. Remember, it is science when you write it down.

[@properprinting]

Thanks! I just wrote it down ;)

[@agepbiz]

This is really interesting. Also the thumbnail made me chuckle haha, love it

[@properprinting]

Thanks! Awesome, I'm proud of this thumbnail xD

[@greggv8]

@@properprinting go to a +1 wheel and tire size. Increase the wheel diameter by one inch and change the tire aspect ratio so the tire diameter stays the same or close to it. Then you'll have room for bolts all the way through. Instead of lug nuts with a bevel, use ones with a large and flat clamping face and a cylindrical locating section. That will add strength and centering along with the raised hub center. Next thing, put a chamfer on or round all the sharp edges on the spokes. The sharp edges act as stress concentrators. You can see that "hot spot" on CNC Kitchen's stress analysis.

[@properprinting]

@@greggv8 Thanks for your suggestions! The printer is completely maxed out with this design because the size is reduced due to the liquid cooling 😅 If I chamfer those edges there will be less surface touching the print bed and this print was already very close to warping. I think that there are other parts in the rim weaker than these sharp edges and I'll keep the design for what it is right now. It prints well, held more than twice the amount of pressure (which most people didn't expect) and we'll find out what fails next at which point ;)

[@ivanmirandawastaken]

Good bang!!

[@glennleader8880]

That's what she said.

[@mat100ca]

Safest way to relieve pressure at that point is to allow failure In a controlled manner

[@trombonebone17456343]

Excited to see this insane project continue!!

[@Ropsu]

If you would want to get pressure out of the tyre in a controlled manner, you could have just bend the hose tightly so air doesnt move through and take it off the compressor side. Then slowly ease the bend. Great video and looking forward for driving with printed rim!

[@properprinting]

That is actually a great tip! My mind didn't function that well at that moment😂

[@DangaRanga]

@@properprinting just disconnect the hose from the compressor lol dont overthink it

[@josphe9011]

When you do wear some heavy duty headphones / ear protection. Releasing air that fast makes a deafening hiss(source I get to hear that deafening hiss weekly)

[@agonymobile]

There's a T splitter, connect a third hose with a valve to it and extend it after the valve with a little bit more hose and wind the tip of the hose with cloth or acrylic wool, You wont hear anything at all, you can wind the over pressure protection valve and it will release air super quietly when you pull it's test.

[@Kycirion]

You can also just shut of the air compressor and crack the bleeder valve on the bottom of the tank then let the whole system decompress.

[@nikond90ful1]

Thanks for the video guys. Don't forget the heat from the brakes when wheel is on the car. Keep safe and stay well.

[@properprinting]

I hope that we get to the point that this is going to be a point of failure ;)

[@electrosync]

Pushing the limits of 3D printing as always! Very entertaining!

[@theofficialczex1708]

Thank you, Jón. Very cool!

[@MartinTheMad]

I'm excited to see 100% success with 4x wheels on your car and driving around like a boss.

[@properprinting]

Now we know how “safe” it is to pressurize it before we put it under the car ;) Did you expect this result? Let us know and don’t forget to subscribe to CNCKitchen if you haven’t already! kzbin.info The video with our chat will be released later today! Edit: I received several suggestions/questions about why I didn't put the threaded rods all the way through. This was my initial design for this second version. However, the problem is that there's not enough room between the tire and brake caliper ;) Also, the link to our chat kzbin.info/www/bejne/lZytqWuKfKpsoJY

[@bribrishyguy6516]

Why dont you stagger the bolts so half of the bolts are going through each part which will improve the shear resistance on the other part? That would fix the issue without needing to print in a more expensive matterial.

[@pr0xZen]

I have an idea for a video to air with you, if you don't mind. Its takeaways would IMO be useful and relevant to your project, so it's not a sidetrack. I believe your style, creativity and production quality would be very well suited for such a content piece. I apologize if this is a bit messy and long; I'm just impromptu dumping a brainstorm on my phone here. If you find the time to read this, I thank you for that time. Super-TL;DR Install hot inserts into printed test pieces, and split them open to explore how (well) the plastic actually conforms to the inserts. - Brainstorm bulk dump: Inserting a few different common types of brass/threaded inserts into test pieces, then splitting the piece open to see what kind of material conformity and friction these inserts actually have to work with in terms of "hanging on". Depending on the scope, maybe at a couple of didfferent temperatures and a couple of different FDM materials? I would suggest designing the test pieces with two designated weak lines for easier splitting (just not so weak it expands or gives out when installing the inserts). Probably end up making the lines at 90° angle in a cross formation centered on the insert hole, in case the insert won't easily "release" a full 180° "clamshell" around it (but try 120/180° or something in between first, it would provide a larger remaining surface area to study in case some material must be cut to free the plastic part from the insert). Ideally you'd want the split section of the test piece to come away from the insert without breaking whatever plastic conformed to the insert's outer shape, so we can get best possible view of how the melted plastic actually conformed to the insert. Maybe use a small drill press or mock up a simple jig, so that you can get insertion angle and pressure fairly consistant between the samples. Maybe consider making 2-3 extra samples of each test group, and send them to Stefan for testing pull-out force, make it a channel/maker coollab 😃 I don't know if you have one, but IIRC both Stefan and Thomas Sanladerer have 3D scanners - if scanning both the inserts and split test pieces, you could make a 3D render showing even better how the plastic conforms (or doesn't) to the insert. AFAIK channel collabs like these are always cool and fairly successful content, and they amplify channel visibility for both/all creators participating. And seeing how IMO the information learned could actually be _very_ useful information for the 3D printing community, that information would reach wide, and the videos would likely sustain views long(er) term. I believe that the results and reflections from these tests would be very valuable in understanding the material dynamics at work, the strength and weaknesses of these hot-melt-inserts, and inform both 3d model part and hot insert design, to better work with and around those strengths and limitations. Most non-engineering tinkerers seem to think of it like the molten plastic conforming fully to the outer surface of the hot insert like it might with _injection molding_ around the insert, but I doubt it does that fully when "just" pressing one in hot. Surely some amount of the plastic will deflect away? There's still, relatively, a lot of tensile strength, surface tension and quite moderate viscosity to molten plastic, and almost all the pressure you exert when inserting one of these are "pushing the plastic away" from the insert. There's not much pressure involved to force the plastic in between the ridges and knurling of the outer shape of the insert, just fairly light back pressure from displacement as long as the bottom of the hole does not give (yet). To my understanding, this is why injection molding is done with substantial pressure, not just gravity fed - it's not smooth and easy flowing, it won't easily conform to small, high friction shapes without being "squeezed in there" with significant pressure.

[@properprinting]

@@pr0xZen wow, thanks for sharing your thoughts! The inserts I use are these www.onkenhout.nl/pdf/multisert_zonder_kop/227/t/p which are, unless most inserts you can find on the market, made for pressing in. It's definitely interesting to do more tests with these. At this moment I think that this is the best option I have considering the tight space I have. Threaded rods all the way through don't fit and nuts are too large and cause sharp edges which can cause delamination. This, together with the fact that the rim held more than twice the air pressure I think that I leave this design for what it is now until it fails at the next test. A very interesting thing which I can check though is the strongest way to add inserts. I always assumed that the best way was heating up, but at what temperature or maybe ultra sonic or just cold pressing is stronger. Thanks again, your comment gives new ideas!

[@odeball22]

Add a hub extender, and you would have way better results printing the entire rim and taking it to a tire shop for mounting

[@xyzconceptsYT]

Bahahaha, LTT Store. Gold.

[@Mueller3D]

Instead of using push-in inserts, how about using print-in-place nuts? That's where you model pockets for the nuts inside the rim, print it up to the top of the pockets, pause the print to insert the nuts, then continue and print over them. They should be more resistant to pull-out than inserts (assuming there's enough material in front). Or you could try the same with the inserts, just pushing them in from the inside after a partial print before continuing.

[@andersweinemo]

Love the rubbery sound trying to fit the inner hose

[@TechAmalgamator]

I know it would be sort of cheating but you can re-melt it in salt compressed to make a mold, thus avoiding layer separation.

[@spaceboundmg]

Awesome video, thanks! Why didnt you simply designed it so that bolts are going through the rim all the way without using inserts on one side, i think that with bolts all the way through it would keep itself alot better!

[@wpigot]

Really interested to see how it handles under the car, this takes into account “static” pressure but when driving around I would expect the pressure to spike once in a while (when going over a speedbump for example). Really looking forward to seeing the final results! Great video as always!

[@worldwideguitarman]

Your video came up in suggested videos for me and I'm very glad it did. This is the sort of crazy shit I love!

[@VincentGroenewold]

Woooooot! Awesome stuff man. One fine picture on the video as well. :) And boy that was tense, my only fear (also at work) is things that spin at 100.000 rpm, high pressure stuff etc. I haaaaaaaate that. Only benefit is that I'm damn sure everything is balanced. :)

[@properprinting]

Thanks Vincent! Probably the safest place to bee will be inside of the car xD I've worked often with lathes before and a big fast spinning clamp is something hard to get used to haha

[@donaldburkhard7932]

Definitely difference in how just tire inflates vs inner tube inflates. Just tire pushes outward from sidewalls while tube pushes sidewalls and toward center of rim.

[@LonersGuide]

My sorta knee jerk response to your 3D printed rim project has been Why? He seems like such a smart guy! Of all things, what a crazy thing to 3D print! I hope he doesn't kill himself or someone else if he actually drives on those things, etc., etc. After pondering it for a bit, however, it occurred to me that the best way to find the real limits of a technology is to find and push its limits, then find ways of overcoming its limitations, rinse and repeat.

[@PAC0TAC0]

Two things. To safely relieve pressure, disconnect your hose at the compressor and press the check valve in the hose, or pull the safety pin on the air tank. Second this is awesome, I would have run the bolt holes fully through the other half of the wheel to use a long bolt for clamping force. I’d also suggest if you did that to ensure both halves have a way to key together like a circular boss male and female.

[@pr0xZen]

As a Norwegian, my brain always get super confused when you speak Dutch as it thinks it's hearing Norwegian but can't make out the words 😂

[@properprinting]

Haha I've got the similar feeling when I hear the Norwegian language🤣

[@pr0xZen]

@@properprinting That's so cool 😃

[@marknn3]

You never fail to make entertaining and genuinely interesting content!

[@jzbreezio]

I think it will drive on ABS for certain amount of time. the wear and tear of different road conditions overtime will determine the overall result. awesome work!

[@klave8511]

Two tips. Put the screws all the way through the rim and pressurize with water, it’s not compressible so you won’t have the explosive rupture.

[@jaymex2617]

I just ROTFL on LLT store dot bottle 😂

[@glennleader8880]

I love your experiment,,,, And what an awesome neighbour you have. Kudos to him.

[@normanharris1092]

Its one thing holding 5 bars static pressure (which a simple cheaply made steel rim can handle), but now add the forces of a 2 ton car going around a corner at speed plus breaking forces and impact forces from the road. I dont mean to be the bringer of bad news, but 3d printed rims will most likely only be decorative unless there is a change in the material strength. That rim will also need durability and heat dispersion properties otherwise the tyre will overheat too.

[@sirmiro2]

Fun project. You did forget that it takes time to fill a tyre, but the wait to let the compressor back to pressure was probably enough to make it even. As long as there's sound from air moving the tyre got lower pressure.

[@jralrazaz2828]

That was lawed, I hear it here in UK lol, awesome video, you can make it, keep it up.

[@Snaaky005]

If you are using bolts already, why not get longer ones and put a nut on the other side, preferably with some big washers to distribute the load. This will provide compression through the whole rim which will help prevent both failure modes seen in this video.

[@NoirMat]

I told myself 6 bars of pressure, believing that the threaded rods crossed the rim right through, besides, is it not possible to proceed in this way? But wow very impressive , hi from France

[@properprinting]

You were close! The space between the edge of the tire and the brake caliper is too small for threaded rods. For now this result is good enough to proceed and I want to focus on printing the side in which those inserts are placed out of stronger material if it needs improvement.

[@tahustvedt]

If you want to do a safer pressure test you can use water, and make sure you bleed the air out. It won't explode if there's no compressible gas in there. PLA will be stronger. It has much higher tensile strength than ABS, which is what counts here. I would also make the threads part of the plastic. Melted in inserts are not going to have great axial holding force unless they are threaded on the outside as well and screwed in threaded inserts.

[@jasondk5127]

It looks like the bead pressure of the tire separated the plastic on the back half of the rim. How about bolting thru both pcs? Using flange nuts on the opposite side or both. The flange nuts will have more surface area on the print and the long bolts will hold the layers together. If it did blow out to the center the long bolts may prevent that. Cheers! Great video!

[@varmint243davev7]

I'm glad no one was hurt. I should think you would have put some straps around it to contain the pieces when it let go. Kind of like a portable tire inflation cage.

[@mtj956]

hahaha Totaly onest scare reaction hahaha !!! keep up the good work !!! This channel will grow fast!!!

[@supdus]

FYI - if you had the vavle system removed and wanted to safely bleed the tire pressure - shut off the compressor and pull the pressure release valve on the compressor - that would safely drain the pressure from the tank and the tire

[@oootoob]

Lol, "expect a muffled bang"!

[@Full_Throttle_no_Brakes]

Amazing project! It seems to me that what failed was the air chamber, not much the rim itself but there is always room for improvement

[@kyleo1236]

It would be interested to see that piece reprinted in ABS and before tightening the bolts that hold the two sections together, brush on a slurry made from ABS melted in acetone. It would create a very strong bond that would make it less of a week point. The only downside is that it would likely make it a one-time use wheel.

[@sevilnatas]

How about instead of the brass inserts, maybe counter sink nut reliefs. This will have the benefit of both clearing the brake caliper and putting material between the clamping pressure of the bolt head and the nut, as opposed to relying on the adhesion of the material to the brass insert. Just a thought.

[@glabifrons]

The accidental over-torquing of the bolts very well may have weakened the inserts' grip on the ABS (fatigue, cracks, etc.), contributing to the failure. I'd be very interested in seeing this retested using the same ABS with the bolts being properly torqued. It's also possible that the crack you found later (towards the bead) was a result of the violent release, especially if the inserts on that section of the rim held stronger than the ones on the rest of the rim (when the rim is coming apart and one section doesn't want to give, there's going to be an excess of tension in that region). Also, you have the coolest neighbors, congrats on that! :^)

[@BrandonWhipp]

You get a like before I even watch, seen a few of the other videos in this series. Keep it up guy.

[@properprinting]

Awesome Brandon, thanks!

[@mdsign001]

Strong Mythbusters vibe on this one, love it!

[@shanestroebel3816]

AWESOME experiment guys 😎 As a suggestion, if you get rid of the threaded inserts & put the bolts right through both inner & outer rims, you'll eliminate that particular weak point & possibly be able to increase failure pressure ?

[@properprinting]

Thanks! I initially designed it with the bolts all the way through, but there's not enough room between the edge of the tire and the brake caliper so I had to get rid of it unfortunately.

[@timkn6147]

Congratulations on reaching an important goal. I knew you’d get it to hold pressure. It’s always interesting how much you can learn by breaking things. If compression from your torque wrench is limited to keep from deforming the plastic… when you tighten the tires lug nuts… can it handle that?

[@properprinting]

Thanks! I think it would be an interesting test to see at what torque it'll be pulled out

[@timkn6147]

@@properprinting also I as thinking the vibration from driving would cause stress fractures on the layer lines.

[@Vortechtral]

Once on the car, the 5 lug nuts will also help keep the 2 pieces together as it will all be bolted to the car itself. Doesn't mean the edges all around still may not flex out at the 2 piece fastening.

[@xyzconceptsYT]

Well, that was entertaining AF! More please 😁

[@properprinting]

Thanks! Working on it😁

[@XFX4JOHN]

I love the content of this channel, looking forward for the next videos

[@CCCfeinman55]

You might consider also filling the micro-voids between layers of the whole construct with a casting epoxy under vacuum. This will ensure that any less than perfect bonds between layers in the rim diameter (the weakest plane, but your print strategy) will have reinforcement sufficient to perhaps overcome the inherent weaknesses of 3D prints. Great project and great fun (sometimes)!

[@SonofTheMorningStar666]

That's a great idea and would work wonders but wouldn't it detract from the original purpose of this project?

[@CCCfeinman55]

@@SonofTheMorningStar666 no success comes without adjusting or outright compromising original assumptions to get a viable result…. Layer adhesion is a critical issue in structural 3D prints. Unless you can design around it, you must mitigate to get a safe result. You certainly wouldn’t want the outside part of the rim to come off in a slightly more than sedate turn or after hitting a rut in the road…..😱 I still really like the idea and the process you’re going through to get to a viable result….just doing my engineering thinking while enjoying the process.

[@SonofTheMorningStar666]

@@CCCfeinman55 🙄 Give it up Chuck.

[@CCCfeinman55]

@@SonofTheMorningStar666 oK.

[@BLBlackDragon]

Rather than threaded inserts, you might try putting bolts all the way through. To address clearances, you might consider Chicago Bolts, which have flatter heads on the ends.

[@properprinting]

Thanks for the suggestion, but that's not possible as I've mentioned in the video.

[@haroldemmers3678]

Good job guys. And if ABS won't do the job I suggest you go for metal printing. They do it for rocket engines these days --> so I believe you guys can do it for a wheel rim too --> SUPER EASY FOR YOU GUYS

[@properprinting]

Thanks! Printing this out of metal would be insane! xD

[@aterxter3437]

just a little tip I got when doing water rockets pressure tests : fill the container with water at least at 80% like so far less air is needed to pressure and also there is less air that will violently decompress inn case oof an explosion, drastically reducing the noise

[@properprinting]

Thanks for the tip! We intentionally used air because we wanted to experience how violently this actually was. This way we know what we can expect when it goes wrong while being under the car. Turns out that, unless you place your head firmly against the rim, this isn't life threatening and we'll use ear protection for the next tests xD

[@DangaRanga]

love this project, i know itd be pricy, but it'd be cool to see a Pa6CF rim as the nylon would add a bit of toughness

[@danielknight1162]

There are special metal cages that are meant to cage a tire while inflating in case it blows.

[@philipboy88]

Waarom gebruik je geen draadeinden door en door. Hierdoor heb je geen last meer van inserts die los kunnen komen, ook heb je minder snel last van dat de lagen van de print onderling los komen. Dit doordat je het geheel naar elkaar toe trekt. Natuurlijk wel chasie ringetjes gebruiken.

[@antoninperbosc1532]

very interesting test, the pressure in the tire is a static pressure test so don't forget when you run a car an turn ont he left or the right when driving all the mass of the car put some lot of stress on the rim the flat part gonna cut because the layers prints are in the same plan ... Haveyou think about printed a rim who combine flat part and ray but not printed in the same plane as the strengh to avoid delamination.

[@palalos81]

Hallo from Greece. I would have tried to add screws from one side of the rim to the other. Avoiding the brass inserts completely.Maybe i would have used and big wasers in every screw to increase the the contact area of the bolt .In conclusion you will have the two parts of the rims sandwiched together and more durable rim. And you will always pressing the printing layers vertical with the use of the long side to side nuts and blots.

[@Variety_Pack]

omg the LTT store joke made me bust a gut

[@littledudejoey]

Love the LTT store bit

[@DeStraatz]

Would be interesting how it reacts under the dynamic loading while driving. Unsure if the plastic would be more malleable than metal or more brittle due to the construction. Also the heat resistivity of the material would be an interesting aspect, as the material endures heat cycles, it could accelerate the lifespan and cause it to deteriorate and become brittle. I think the biggest hurdle will be having the material deteriorate due to the radiative heat from the brakes. I look forward to the dynamic testing!!

[@d-rockpain4250]

I'm thinking vibration and bumps will give a separating layer failure. I think once the rims are printed, then we will see a "dip" of some sort for layer integrity. Know a great compatible hardening layer?

[@joeweb5581]

Future thoughts. Open the tank water drain (Petcock valve) with air pump off or unplugged. Should back feed the air through the tank.

[@KrustyKlown]

For higher strength .. insert your threaded inserts from the OTHER side, with a stepped hole in the plastic.

[@johann_malherbe]

you guys should acetone smooth the rim so all the layers bond together fully. I wonder how much stronger it would be than regular unsmoothed abs.

[@james10739]

Ya I was not sure when the rim would fail but for an explosion it would take a lot more than 60psi

[@cullyn]

once again, amazing stuff.

[@properprinting]

Thanks!

[@Big3dprinter]

You are absolutely crazy i love it. Try printing out of PEI see if someone will sponsor it. Also try bolting the rim together all the way through, should help. Great video always entertaining.

[@user-xb5zu6zu7j]

Crazy Dutch! Thanks for the vid! ;)

[@mathyskramer7576]

If you would increase the overal diameter to gain the clearance for the brake callipers with bolts through the entire rim. The benefit would be that you wouldn’t have to change the printing material as the bolts would not just keep the pieces together but also the layers of the print itself.

[@properprinting]

True! The problem is that I completely maxed out my printer 😅 I squeezed every mm out of it and this is due to the size reduction the water cooling caused. I'll try it at the car first and if it fails I'll use stronger material. If that fails I can make a decision to stop or do further improvements somewhere else.

[@liampatterson9396]

This is a cool idea but try to make the rim air tight that was more how much pressure the tube could hold

[@lotechgreg]

👍 Redesign for angled through bolts, and, you MAY have a winner...

[@Drew_pew_pew_pew]

Alternate title: nice rim job with surprise explosion. But I have a feeling the youtube algorithm wouldn't like this.

[@pringineer1027]

Damn that was so intense. I was on edge all throughout :D

[@properprinting]

Awesome! I'm glad you felt what we did :D

[@pringineer1027]

@@properprinting oh i definitely did :D bachelor thesis could wait for this

[@properprinting]

@@pringineer1027 good luck with your thesis!

[@pringineer1027]

Cheers man! I am like 70% done :)

[@Vez3D]

You guys rock!!!

[@ThePSPJesus]

I think it would be wise to fashion a metal grommet and heat press them in the stud holes abs is brittle and the harsh vibrations will not be kind to the molecular structure I imagine

[@vantalane]

Gaaast dit is zo vet! Echt mooi ge-engineerd, heb je nog klachten gegregen van je buren?

[@properprinting]

Bedankt! Nee, ik heb hele toffe buren (en heb ze vooraf gewaarschuwd ;))

[@wordreet]

Nice!!!!!!!! Even scarier than a bushman prank!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 😂 I'm going to argue that the wheel broke at the bolt holes, and the layer separation that you observed was a result of the shock, or possibly that they both happened at the same millisecond. Can you beg/borrow/ steal a slo-mo camera? That would be super interesting to watch! I'm an ex tire fitter by the way. Subscribed!

[@properprinting]

Awesome, thanks for your sub! I'd love to have a slow-motion camera. That crack for sure was close to the maximum strength of those inserts ;)

[@dano5143]

If you run a inner tube you can go for a bolt through the rim just Nut and Bolts.

[@properprinting]

That doesn't fit like I explained in the video

[@piratescove4301]

(9:12) Ya?... Ya... Ya...booom goes the rim lol he got scared from the flying parts on the monitor lol!

[@Chad.The.Flornadian]

Very entertaining video. Keep up the great work!

[@bikinglikebecker]

Print the rim all in one piece AND cross-hatch(X) the grains so it won't split so easily from the edge of the tire bead...

[@zet0korp]

I believe it would be a lot stronger if it was printed red... or at least if you added some flame stickers, that should add approx 2 unicorn of magnitudes on the tensile strength of the abs

[@DaleDCannon]

The damage to the rim is most likely from the explosion of the innertube and NOT due to failure of the rim. Had the innertube not failed the rim may have withstood even more pressure.

[@properprinting]

I can't say for sure so I might be wrong, but I think that an inner tube is unable to explode while the tire is intact. Even a balloon would hold such pressures, albeit that the volume of this tire would be too large for a standard balloon, as long as the tire and rim stays intact. I think even that if you'd puncture only the inner tube while being at pressure (hypothetically speaking) and the tire doesn't have a leakage it would just be able to pressurize. Once the rim fails, the inner tube will expand too much at 4+ bars of pressure and ruptures quickly. This seems logical to me, but again, I can be wrong ;)

[@rondlh20]

Brilliant! Goed werk!

[@DoRC]

It might be cheating but you could run bolts through the entire thing instead of just into inserts. That would remove the inserts as a weak point and strengthen the entire system quite a bit

[@properprinting]

I initially designed it that way, but there's not a lot of room between the tire and the brake caliper. The inserts perform well enough for now. I want to focus on printing the part where those inserts are placed in out of a stronger material since this is the weakest part.

[@claws61821]

You should check the pressure rating on the inner tube too. It looked to me like that was what went first, and the point eruption was what took out the rim, though I could be wrong. Any chance we can get a follow-up soon on the microswitch nozzle probe? Thanks!

[@1912RamblerFan01]

The tube doesn't have a pressure rating as it's basically a balloon that's filled to take the shape of the container, in this case the tire and rim. So something with either the tire or rim must've failed, unless the tube was defective or the valve separated, the latter of which wouldn't normally end in a dramatic explosion. It's likely the pressure from the inflated tube caused the wheel to fail, specifically the plastic to separate and let the tube rupture there. Either way, you have to admit it's pretty impressive. I didn't think a 3D printed wheel would be able to handle all that pressure, both from the inflated tube and the weight of a car on top of it.

[@208Concepts]

If the valve core was out, you could just disconnect the hose from the compressor

[@diezelpwr1202]

This is going viral. 🤙

[@Shoorit]

24psi.. damn I underestimated the strength of 3D printed plastic.

[@knuddelwinzig498]

Hummmm, you learned something.... And did not all mistakes again... Really Kool....

[@knuddelwinzig498]

Yeah, u mean they should have used rods that goes from one side to the other side of the rimm to work against delamination of the layers?! That was my thought at the first vid...

[@arthurmorgan8966]

My guess was 20 psi. Didn’t expect you to test insane pressure as a canary method for actual car load.

[@dfpytwa]

If you bolted it all the way through with nuts on the other side I would figure it would hold up as well as or better than any cheap Chinese made rims.

[@locoworks8179]

why not just have holes all the way through instead of inserts and use longer bolts and nuts ?? anodized button head hex bolts on the outside would look nice . also add some dowels ( metal ones obviously ) for alignment between the 2 halves.

[@Leo.Wolf.the.Engineer]

Brake calipers are in the way as they explained

[@martinTintin476]

When you put more tightening torque in there. the back pressure kills your bolts. the calculated tightening pressure is better, but replaces the disc tightening pressure plus the tire pressure = maximum pressure. I tell myself why tighten it at all. put the spring washer on the bolts slightly, pre-tension the washer HALFWAY and the tire will take care of the rest.🖐🤘👍

[@properprinting]

Interesting thought, thanks! I found out that the maximum torque was around 11Nm and I think I'll tighten them at 6Nm next time.